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 > Your search for posts made by 'Skibane' found 303 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Catastrophic Fuse

The fuse was apparently installed at the wrong end of the battery cable. Swap that fuse and cable end to end. The risk is a short to ground at some point along that 5' connection. Yep. With the fuse located right at the battery post, all of the cable beyond that point is protected.
Skibane 05/17/22 05:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Small trailer suggestions

— Why is “small” important? (They don’t tow more easily). They do indeed tow more easily. They weigh less and have a smaller frontal surface area, which means that they don't push the tow vehicle around as much, or work the TV's drivetrain as hard. They're easier to maneuver into tight spaces, and they'll fit in 2 parking spaces at any grocery store. "Tows like nothing's back there" is something no one EVER said about a 45 foot toy-hauler. — “Value” re money spent goes up in lineal feet increases. (There’s a minimum, basically, and also a sweet spot for length/money) Interior volume is just one of many ways to judge value. If you instead measure it by how much of your original purchase price is returned when you sell it, small RVs tend to win handily. — Inconvenience can weigh heavily after awhile. (Constant hard use ups the wear rate of interior). A small, well-made trailer will wear better than a large, poorly-made one. — Small capacities reduce boondocking ability (Meaning increased energy use to go back/forth from the store; propane supplier, get water; dump tanks, etc). Small trailers require much less propane to heat, they have fewer lights and other 12 volt accessories to drain the house batteries, and they tend to eschew power-hungry appliances such as residential refrigerators, icemakers and dishwashers.
Skibane 05/16/22 04:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: Is there an Air Conditioner using Inverter Compressor

The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area. There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets. Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas. and pretty power hungry, 105Amps at 12V on max. That's "only" 1260 watts - Not much different from a typical 120V unit. One problem with 12V units is that the high amperage requires thick wire, and introduces electrical losses. If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter.
Skibane 05/15/22 06:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Propane shut off valve opens on its own

Is the valve handle actually turning on its own, or is the fully-closed position changing over time?
Skibane 05/13/22 04:42pm General RVing Issues
RE: Maybe getting a longer trailer

I know longer trailers are generally easier to back up. They're "easier" in the sense that they are more sluggish in responding to driver corrections - which makes them more forgiving of driver overcorrections. In areas with limited maneuvering room, shorter trailers are easier to back up.
Skibane 05/11/22 10:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: 1157 LED Bulb question

Compair lumens, higher the brighter. A lot of sellers exaggerate their lumen specs. Also, in many of the cheaper bulbs, the LEDs are driven much harder than they should be, in order to make the bulb appear as bright as possible. This makes the bulb run hot, and drastically shortens its life expectancy. The more reputable sellers have honest brightness specifications, and sell conservatively-designed bulbs. Along with SuperbrightLEDS, Diode Dynamics is also a reputable seller.
Skibane 05/07/22 05:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Anode rod help

Depending on use you can get 3-4 years out of one. Only once did I ever get a year out of one! That still has at least one probably 2 years left I it. Once you get near the metal rod (1/8” rod) then it’s time to replace it. Water quality makes a huge difference in how long they last. In my locale, they only last about a year. Suburban also sells a version that uses aluminum, instead of magnesium - It lasts longer, but isn't as aggressive in preventing tank corrosion. Suburban Magnesium Anode: P/N #232767 Suburban Aluminum Anode: P/N #232768
Skibane 05/07/22 10:46am Tech Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

None of what you're describing comes anywhere close to meeting the definition of "indefinitely". If there is no sunlight available, no amount of solar panel "upsizing" is going to help. You are going to run out of power. If you want to be pedantic. Sure if you park for a month in deep heavy forest and never leave, it won't work. If you want to actually use the RV during that time (i.e., cook meals, run the heater to keep warm, refrigerate your foods etc.) - You're going to run out of power in several days - not months. But for non-pedantic potential buyers with more typical use patterns, it's very much viable. So they've got that snob appeal thing going for them: "It's the RV for sophisticated, non-pedantic buyers..." I'm always amused at the contortions people are willing to put themselves through to deny the impracticality of "green" RVs: "Oh yeah, they work just great - as long as you're willing to give up X, Y and Z..."
Skibane 05/06/22 04:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

so are you saying that Americans park there vehicles with solar in the shade The ones with portable solar panels do. The panels go wherever the sunlight is, and the RV stays in the shade. Shade greatly reduces heat buildup inside the RV - which in turn reduces the amount of power required to keep it comfortable. In that regard, roof-mounted panels tend to be counterproductive: The power they produce by parking the RV in full sunlight is offset by the extra power required to keep the RV cool...due to the extra heat buildup from parking in full sunlight.
Skibane 05/05/22 05:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

And lastly hear in OZ we do get a lot of sunshine. In OZ, do RVs not stay cooler when they're parked in shade than in sunshine? Do not most RVers in OZ prefer to park in the shade, for this reason?
Skibane 05/04/22 07:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

According to the website, the base model is 7kwh (7000w-hr) battery bank and 600w solar. If you are doing long 6-8hr slow simmering meals, it could be a bit of a problem. Assuming the stove uses 1500w for an hour on high (longer than it typically takes us to make most meals, that's pretty viable with a 7000w-hr battery bank. The 600w solar system should put back in around 2400w-hr per day. Our 12v fridge pulls around 60w on a 50% duty cycle in comfortable conditions, so around 720w-hr per day. It's when it gets hot or cold that battery power becomes problematic. An air/con pulling 1200w with a 50% duty cycle is going to pull 14,400w-hr per day. Assuming they are heating with a heat pump, expect similar consumption. So it would need a substantial upsizing to the battery bank and solar array to keep up or they need to undersize it but then the duty cycle goes up. If it's small and insulated far better than I expect, it might be possible but you will always have to be watching the batteries so you don't run them dead. None of what you're describing comes anywhere close to meeting the definition of "indefinitely". If there is no sunlight available, no amount of solar panel "upsizing" is going to help. You are going to run out of power. Information on the AC unit can be found at the link below. Link to ac website Interestingly, they don't list the cooling capacity in BTUs - Only in "watts of cooling power". If you use the standard conversion factor of 1 watt being equal to 3.41 BTU/h, their larger "Comfort RC" model with "2400 watts of cooling power" produces 8200 BTUs - Which is around 60% of what a typical RV air conditioner produces.
Skibane 05/04/22 08:40am General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

Seems it would be better to have propane for cooking, hot water, and outdoor grill than electric. Just my thought anyway. I do wonder how long they can withstand rainy or cloudy days. Having propane would allow you to stretch the electric power farther. And personally I prefer parking in the shade, and solar pretty much won't allow you to do that. Parking in full sun in the midwest in the middle of summer would put the AC to the test. :) If you don't use the air/con or heat, probably indefinitely. If you need air/con or heat, well, not so great. What if you need to prepare meals? The stove is an induction cooktop. That's an energy pig. What if you need to keep your food from spoiling? Compressor-driven refrigerators aren't exactly power-misers.
Skibane 05/04/22 12:21am General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

So you get to sleep right on top of an air conditioner that's cycling on and off all night?Compared to the roof shaker over the bed? How bad can it be? 6 inches away, versus 6 feet? The inverse square law is a thing...
Skibane 05/02/22 11:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

Mentioned an under the bed AC unit So you get to sleep right on top of an air conditioner that's cycling on and off all night? and detailed about the insulation that helps keeps things cooler (or warmer). If you have to park the RV in full sunlight to get significant power out of the panels, you're going to need all the insulation you can get.
Skibane 05/02/22 05:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: first commercially available all electric RV

Perhaps I missed it, but didn't see any mention of how they heat or cool it. 14.3 KWH of battery energy is just slightly under 50K BTU - Enough to run a 12K BTU air conditioner for around 4 hours a day (assuming perfect efficiency, 100% battery discharge, and no other electrical loads being used). I assume they would use some sort of heat pump for heating, since resistance electric heat is very energy-inefficient. Typically, you get less sunlight in cold climates and during cold seasons - so there would often be less solar panel output available for heating. On rainy or completely overcast days, you either make do with whatever's still in the battery, or do without.
Skibane 05/02/22 03:10pm General RVing Issues
RE: OEM vs Aftermarket - Chinese JUNK Comparison

Another option, as long as the factory headlight assembly is not broken, is to buy the $30 (may cost more now than a few years ago) headlight restoration kit at your auto parts store. I tried it a few years back on an older vehicle. Basically, it's a paste, with some sort of grit, and you use circular pattern to mill off a couple thousands of an inch of the face plastic material. It's a multi step process but I saved money, and 3 years later they still look good. In the end, it allows you to remain using your factory lighting assembly but remove the yellow haze. Worth checking out for those in that situation. Yep, lenses that are fogged with age don't let as much light through - and the light that does get through tends to be dispersed in all directions. So, you get more glare in unwanted directions, and less light in the desired direction. I've used the Sylvania restoration kit several times, and really like it - Makes a very fogged lens look almost brand-new again.
Skibane 05/01/22 05:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel part 2

I'm curious to see how long you radiator fan lasts in that application. Typically, they use brushes, and aren't designed for hours of constant operation every day.
Skibane 04/30/22 10:28pm Tech Issues
RE: OEM vs Aftermarket - Chinese JUNK Comparison

Performance-wise, the LED retrofit headlight bulbs are all over the place. Some are surprisingly good, and some are utter ****. Me and quite a few other 2nd-generation Frontier owners have had excellent luck with the Katana 9007 LED bulbs. Their LED emitters closely mimic the shape and position of the filaments in the incandescent bulb they replace, which makes a HUGE difference in avoiding a beam pattern that sprays light everywhere. The earlier version that is equipped with a cooling fan works better than the more recent fanless version. (Most fanless designs reduce the LED brightness after a few minutes of operation, in order to avoid burning them up). Mine have seen operation almost every night over the past 2 years, with one failure. MUCH brighter than the original incandescents (without blinding oncoming drivers), and well worth the 55 bucks, IMO.
Skibane 04/30/22 10:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Temperature sender/sensor... 7.3L

Typically, the vehicle manufacturer publishes a chart (usually in the Factory Service Manual) that shows how much resistance the sender is supposed to be producing at any particular temperature. You look up that resistance on the chart, and then use an ohm meter to measure the actual resistance being produced by your sender. If your measured resistance comes close to matching the resistance shown on the chart, you know that your sender is good - and that you problem is somewhere else.
Skibane 04/29/22 01:43am Tech Issues
RE: Quality Replacement for the old Style MaxxAir Fan Mate 850

Galled on me after only 2 years. I had to cut them off to get the cover to open. VERY common with stainless fasteners. Anti-seize compound on the threads is strongly recommended.
Skibane 04/28/22 10:40am General RVing Issues
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