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 > Your search for posts made by 'Slowmover' found 39 matches.

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RE: Ram HD 1000 lb-ft MPG loop

My 63’ combined rig usually scales above 17k. The 555 motor must be underpowered. It isn’t. It’s grossly overpowered for this trailer. But fuel economy mattered. 15-mpg is the average Why others want to buy an additional 45/gals to travel 1k miles is past me. Their rigs have no more amenities than mine. Gears & power are nice. At today’s price, 17-cpm is a whole lot nicer than 29-cpm fuel cost. Anyone, take your time. In rig research and on the road. The best day on the road is the one you’ve forgotten. IMO , in the same way, the best rig is the one doesn’t need replacement.
Slowmover 04/29/19 11:16am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ram HD 1000 lb-ft MPG loop

I guess there's some truth to slowmover's handle! That's the point of more power or more gears....to be able to travel at the speed you wish with the load you have. If ya want to do 30mph up the Ike Grapevine or 1000s of other grades out there, they make pickup trucks for that too. They're called gassers! Lol The new Ram test sounds like good mileage for that load for sure, but I wouldn't put money on it getting appreciably better mileage in real world conditions than any other newer diesel out there. Conditions dictate travel speed. Not operator or equipment. And as a pickup is the vehicle with the highest likelihood of a rollover on the highway (curb, pothole, broken pavement, etc) adding a trailer only makes them worse. Rollovers account for one-Third of fatalities. What’s your total tested braking distance to zero with your loaded rig? Would it be possible to do it more than once? Or will the trailer brakes be ruined? Anti-lock travel trailer disc brakes (TUSON) “might” give you a little more leeway. That and fully independent trailer suspension is MAJOR risk reduction. Despite the unstable tow vehicle. But why does ascent speed matter in the first place? Feelz? Your snowflake safe space on denial of the reality around you? Like SB, you’re revealing more than you realize. (Both y’all making this too easy). .
Slowmover 04/29/19 11:00am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ram HD 1000 lb-ft MPG loop

FWIW, I tend to start my passes about 350’ out. Earlier than others expect, but statistically worthy. I sure get a kick out of left-laners who think I’m asking permission. ——_______ The only real trick these days is avoiding the packs. The stupids. There are always gaps between them. Your travel speed is irrelevant. The Below always applies 1). Get them around you. Cancel cruise. 2). Leaving a stoplight at the edge of town? It’ll take the stupids THIRTY MILES to separate. Just drag along till they’re gone. Same for increased speed limit. Wait MORE THAN five miles. 3). Same for construction. 4). Once within 75-miles of a metro center, you’re in that traffic. Back down. You’re doing it right when you always have a half-mile around you. Today’s computer-control multi-speed trans vehicles make being smooth really easy. Fuel efficient despite changing from steady state to manage traffic around you. Why are Interstates “fast”? It isn’t the upper limit. 1). Limited access 2). Non-stop It’s all about average speed (barely related to travel speed). Under 300-miles in a day , and 68 isn’t faster than 60. Do the test. Engine run time versus the clock. You’ll waste more time with the TV channel changer that same day
Slowmover 04/29/19 10:43am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ram HD 1000 lb-ft MPG loop

If you ever towed 33-35k combined and was not able to hold the speed limit going up a grade,then you probably needed more gears. But why would you have to maintain upper limit? What’s the importance? Especially seeing as other vehicles won’t. And now you’ve just killed NECESSARY vehicle spacing. With other idiots now running up from behind and into this slower traffic making a bad thing worse. Sounds like remedial training time. Basics. The downgrade matters. Not the ascent. Because I don't want to be a slow mover(pun intended), and like to stay within a reasonable speed when I tow instead of taking a hill at 40 mph becoming a hazard on the road. More gears, means more opportunities to be at peak power and efficiency at certain mph. Another plus is that you can operate at safer temps depending on the situation. More gears also helps on the decent too. I am also pretty sure that any class 7/8 truck driver out there would disagree with the not needing extra gears when towing too. Go drive an Eaton 8 speed, 10 speed, and 13 speed up and down a few hills behind the same exact engine and you will see what a few extra gears will do. OK. You’re a big boy. Some here aren’t. Listen up: Calling the slower (but legal) driver a hazard reveals more about your low level of “skill” than you likely intended. (You might be a nice guy, but . . .) At any grade — ANY GRADE AT ALL— traffic will slow. . Operator or equipment the reason is irrelevant . “”Skill” comes in as recognizing this as fact, AND ADAPTING. One knows it ahead of time. It matters not at all how fast you can make the ascent. What matters is maintaining as much space as the situation allows. As others (you) will screw it up for everyone else by rushing forward, thus less space ahead, alongside and behind. For everyone. VEHICLE SPACING drives ALL other traffic decisions. More gears only help to a point. And unless one lives in the mountains, specifying a TV based on .04% of its miles also questions BASIC intelligence. I’m in favor of choices, but the difference between a 10 and a 13 isn’t much. The latest AMTs are great. I have one behind a 13L Paccar that never seems to run out of choices. But it still won’t overcome 46k in the box on the way up The Gorge. There is only ONE Interstate lane. The RH travel lane. The left lane is reserved for passing only. One has NO ROW in the left lane (zero), and one CANNOT BLOCK ACCESS to the passing lane. A pass that cannot be completed AT LEAST five mph faster than the RH lane traffic is spirit of the law wrong. “Lingering” near other traffic is past stupid. But we’ve seen how millions of the stupid screw this up. Instead of backing off and easing along, they crowd the left lane. Stupid is as stupid does. (“But I’m going faster”! No, not really. Wake up). So in a situation where ADVERSE CROSSWINDS are likely — a mountain pass — and the GENUINE high risk of a grade descent exists . . . . . you want to run along in an unsafe manner because . . . . ? (try again). The hazard-provoking driver is the one who ignores what’s in front of him. Cannot adapt to conditions. And, as towing makes an unstable vehicle even less stable (what were you saying?) You want a test? What is your total braking distance from 65-mph? That YOU have tested and CONFIRMED. It won’t be worth beans you don’t ADD time & distance on the road. AND if you’re passing everyone on a upgrade at a high differential, (they won’t let me say what I think of those). Remember that you not only have no ROW in the passing lane, you may not block access. Maybe you’ll be flat to the floor in your magic one ton at 70-mph up the grade in the left lane. And I decide to move into that left lane at 45-mph to get around a guy falling below 30. A fully legal maneuver INHERENT in the Interstate design. WHY it has a minimum of two lanes nationwide. I’ve been traveling them continent-wide since they were being built. No one misses US highways. 1). You don’t know who is the hazard 2). You also don’t understand your contribution to a traffic problem 3). You have no basic strategy to obviate the worst. To highlight tactics that might work. Extra gears are to be smooth. Ease along. Not stress the drivetrain unless needed. A mountain grade is reason to back off. Always. (And the slowmover handle dates from the killingly underpowered trucks I first drove. Literally 30-minutes to 60-mph out of Birmingham to Atlanta. 18-mph up the Gorge. I was hearing, “slow mover Mm 324”, in my sleep). .
Slowmover 04/29/19 10:25am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ram HD 1000 lb-ft MPG loop

If you ever towed 33-35k combined and was not able to hold the speed limit going up a grade,then you probably needed more gears. But why would you have to maintain upper limit? What’s the importance? Especially seeing as other vehicles won’t. And now you’ve just killed NECESSARY vehicle spacing. With other idiots now running up from behind and into this slower traffic making a bad thing worse. Sounds like remedial training time. Basics. The downgrade matters. Not the ascent.
Slowmover 04/29/19 07:45am Tow Vehicles
RE: starting to look at trucks

Today’s trucks are also far heavier. On better tires, but not much increase in ultimate traction (contact patch). Given they are also TALLER, they’re not more stable than a mid-90s pickup. The change to the good is 4-whl disc. And some stability/braking programming. Trailer brakes are what matter. The less weight per wheel for a given swept area and contact patch is what wins brand discussions. And allied to a low COG. A pickup is a handicapped vehicle.
Slowmover 04/29/19 07:40am Travel Trailers
RE: Broken leaf springs - third time!

Advantages so far outweigh disadvantage (there aren’t any) that to continue to use leaf is questionable brains. While the cheap leaf spring suspensions are built poorly, there is an advantage in that they have equalizers to keep both axles carrying approximately the same weight. I have a large enclosed trailer with torsion axles and many times, when going over or parking on rough terrain, one or two tires are completely off the ground causing overload on the remaining. My thought is that a trailer with torsion axles better have a reinforced frame and much higher rated axles, tires and wheels. It is better to use your brain and question all aspects of the various suspensions. Ha! As if leaf doesn’t do the same. What you miss is that leaf has half or less the wheel travel. Which is likelier to hang? And those “equalizers” are more of a joke than a reality. (The leaf problems continue) Leaf can be good. But not without invading trailer living space. Look closely at a leaf rear vehicle. Frame shape. Attach points. Etc. The track width in leaf ends at the u-bolt / axle attach point. Narrow as hell. Look at U-Haul. This point is congruent with outer wall. That’s key. Torsion is at wheel face. Which should also be at trailer wall. No, Torsion doesn’t need reinforced frame. It exerts less stress. More pliable, if you want a word. Torsion is a huge step up in stability. Which is safety.
Slowmover 04/29/19 07:33am Travel Trailers
RE: Ecoboost 3.5 Towing MPG Sucks

You’ve never tested nor researched, have you? The penalty is 40%. If MPG has meaning to you (apparently not) it would be obvious the EPA COMBINED is close to that number. Researched :) BAWAWAWA I'm a licensed professional engineer working for an automotive OEM, specifically working in powertrain group. Want to try again and cite the exact source of this alleged 40% penalty claim? Hook up a TT and find out. What’s the penalty? Steady-state difference, all else the same. It’s common as a rule of thumb past 50-years. Your “research” doesn’t extend very far. Whether higher or lower, the difference will mainly be trailer design. The noise in the numbers will be the mechanical condition. Which I’d never trust when brand new much less used. AND the validity of the hitch rigging. If it’s much above forty, there are problems with those vehicles. .
Slowmover 04/29/19 07:25am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ecoboost 3.5 Towing MPG Sucks

What’s the percentage change? Your TV loaded as if for camping, passenger weight simulated is the mark. Only change is no TT. WITH TT it’s 60% of above as benchmark. MORE than 40% extra means problems. Vehicles, rigging & driver. If one CANT exceed EPA, he’s not doing a good job. Doesn’t much care. 60-mph is the standard. Test. Correct your bad driving habits. Verify mechanical condition.
Slowmover 04/28/19 07:54am Tow Vehicles
RE: starting to look at trucks

Pickup truck INHERENT instability is the problem. Not drivetrain (that’s like arguing paint color). How well it handles, steers & brakes is key to risk reduction. As solo duty is the SINGLE important consideration for tow vehicle spec. Choose starting here: 1). Lowest COG 2). Independent Front Suspension 3). Rack & Pinion Steering Most of all, an actual need. Is a pickup used for business? Farmer, rancher, contractor? Otherwise: A). What is the weight, size & shape of gear which CANNOT be carried in passenger compartment or trailer? B). Given solo daily-driver configuration, what is the FF/RR weight bias? (Driving around with an empty bed? Wrong vehicle choice). Pickups increase the chance of a loss-of-control accident. Towing makes that worse. . Pickup rollover is via “trip hazard”: pothole, curb, soft shoulder. Towing Loss-of-Control is via over-correction. . Road hazard & adverse winds: a pair of top-heavy vehicles on inadequate suspension with incorrect hitch rigging (means you don’t much care about your family) is the highest risk configuration. Today’s conventional travel trailers are worse by design than years before. Slide-outs for fat people have raised floors to 4’ and more. And they’re still on UNACCEPTABLE leaf spring suspensions. There is no worse towing combination than a pickup & one of these trailers. Put the money where it’s needed: a). Antilock disc brakes on the TT b). Torsion Axle c). Hensley-patent hitch Pickups need so many bandaids it’s ridiculous. And still cannot overcome design deficiencies (“Hi, the 1940s want their farm vehicle back”). As each of you is also unable to correctly set a WDH (saying 92% is too polite) THAT is the topic which should dominate these pages. That it doesn’t, shows the value of advice on RV forums. Road-going stability is the game. Pickups don’t have that. Start with a clean sheet. (And, no, no ones impressed by you new guys with your ten or twenty years. Quite the opposite) .
Slowmover 04/28/19 07:17am Travel Trailers
RE: How to calculate the cost of RVing

1). Length of Ownership 2). Nights Aboard Per Annum Finance, Storage, Insurance & Depreciation must all factor in. Not just operation costs, ground rent, etc. So must trading the family vehicle for that which can tow the trailer (and it’s added expense per mile). I’d bet most of you are ABOVE $300/night. “Economy” is length of ownership with an RV of sufficient quality. My folks kept theirs 27-years. Two tow vehicles. An RV still on the road 44-years later with new owner. So, cheaply built = most expensive RV possible.
Slowmover 04/28/19 06:52am General RVing Issues
RE: Broken leaf springs - third time!

Best solution is to convert to TORSION AXLE Wider track and are fully independent. TT is FAR more stable. AND has a smoother ride. Leaf spring on travel trailer has been obsolete/unacceptable for more than fifty years. Maybe they are better. But, don't they have rubber bushings on them that will go bad after awhile too ? And, can't the Torsion Bar wear out ? I remember back in the day you had to crank up the front Torsion Bar axles on your Mopars after a few years because they would start to sag. Maybe bad. 20-years. Sometimes not at all. Advantages so far outweigh disadvantage (there aren’t any) that to continue to use leaf is questionable brains.
Slowmover 04/28/19 06:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Steel vs Aluminum Wheels

To me the main advantage that has not been mentioned yet is the manufacturing process and tolerance. The steel wheels are stamped in a die and may be with in .030 of an inch. The Al wheels either cast or forged are machined within .005. This makes for a wheel that is more accurate and easier to balance at high speed using less weight. Having said that, having hit a big pothole with mine it is easier to straighten a steel wheel with a hammer without cracking the wheel because the steel is more ductile that a cast Al wheel which is more likely to crack. The forged Al is stronger than cast and more ductile than cast but not as dutile as the stamped steel. The Al wheels look nicer but for me when I consider the cost vs performance benefit I would stay with the steel wheels. Steel wheels have become rare in Class 8. They don’t pay.
Slowmover 04/28/19 06:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ecoboost 3.5 Towing MPG Sucks

You’ve never tested nor researched, have you? The penalty is 40%. If MPG has meaning to you (apparently not) it would be obvious the EPA COMBINED is close to that number.
Slowmover 04/28/19 06:18am Tow Vehicles
RE: Steel vs Aluminum Wheels

CENTRAMATIC balancers all around. (BALANCE MASTER nicer yet). Quite common now in Class 8. My 579 Pete has them at every position. The shop at Alvarado, TX is great to deal with. (And my 35’ Silver Streak is so equipped). Have a look at STENGEL BROTHRS “Wheel Centering Tools”. Even if you have to buy your own, reducing Vibration is worth every effort. Research as a topic in big truck resources. With whatever you all have been using in MOHO-land to keep duals at same pressure, such as CROSSFIRE. I’d imagine Roger Marble has ideas.
Slowmover 04/26/19 04:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ecoboost 3.5 Towing MPG Sucks

The EPA COMBINED number is the tow number. The towing penalty is 40%. 1969 tow vehicle or 2019 tow vehicle. Some extra rolling resistance in towing, but it’s the AERO penalty that matters. The tests must be the same with the single exception of the trailer. 1). TV loaded for camping. Passenger weight simulated. 2). Same speed solo as towing. 100% use of cruise control 3). Speed not to exceed 60-mph. Roundtrip of 200-miles to same fuel pump. Stop ar first auto-shutoff Do the tests. If you’re above 40% penalty time to investigate. Alignment, brake drag hitch rigging, etc. A truly aero TT will come in at under 40% fuel burn penalty. Careful attention to details can get it closer to 30%. Mines at 36% currently. Work yet to come. The absolute number doesn’t mean much. The AVERAGE MPG is the thing. But first, FIND OUT HOW HIGH IT CAN BE.
Slowmover 04/26/19 12:20pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing Numbers Review

Use 3-Pass Method 1). Cross a CAT SCALE when hitched and rigging taut. 2). Cross again with rigging fully slack 3). Park trailer and cross solo. All passengers aboard. Loaded for camping. Full fresh water and propane. Get all three scale tickets. Post. Pic of axle/wheel/tire limit sticker. (GVWR, etc, don’t mean much). Hitch rigging should be adjusted so that the TV STEER AXLE WEIGHT is the same in both the First & Third scale tickets. TT should be dead-Level once finished. TV might be down slightly in rear compared to unhitched. Tire pressure needs to reflect actual load. Neither low nor high, as either reduces performance. Get the numbers.
Slowmover 04/26/19 09:37am Towing
RE: Broken leaf springs - third time!

Best solution is to convert to TORSION AXLE Wider track and are fully independent. TT is FAR more stable. AND has a smoother ride. Leaf spring on travel trailer has been obsolete/unacceptable for more than fifty years.
Slowmover 04/26/19 09:31am Travel Trailers
RE: Duramax L5P Fuel Mileage

Comparison is against self. The percent change from solo to towing. 1). Set aside a day. Head out to nearest Interstate fuel stop. Top fuel to first auto shut. Tires at lowest per chart. Nothing in truck. Scale it. 2). 100+ miles outbound and then back to same pump. Top off same way. 3). 100% cruise control at 58/9-mph. (No, not 63 as the aerodynamic wall is dead on 60). 4). Ideal trip is only two accel and two decel events with no lane changes. This (like getting a TARE weight) is a baseline for all that comes in the future. Guys getting 17-18/hwy SOLO are cracking me up. I hit 17 Towing my 35’ TT. Mechanical condition and future diagnosis of problems needs a baseline of numbers. The PERCENTAGE CHANGE from solo to Towing is predicated on same tow vehicle sans trailer, same roads & speed OP you’ll find none of the respondents or others you ask will ever have made a comparison worth quoting. Speeds, loads, etc, are ignored. And wrong tire pressures are used. Do your own testing. The same test as above with the truck loaded for camping (simulate passenger load) AND yet another when hitched (max propane & water ) AT THE SAME SPEED AS ABOVE Will give you the Scale Info and tire pressure data you NEED to make good decisions. . Changes in mpg are idiot lights. What’s wrong? The final result is being able to predict vacation fuel costs while towing. At today’s prices I can use Fuel Cost = 17-cpm (cents per mile). Step One is in finding “best” highway mpg. Solo empty. Solo loaded and then towing. Use FUELLY or similar to trend. .
Slowmover 04/26/19 09:11am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Terrible turning of Ford E450 202” WB

Through to the end of their lives, most folks follow the front wheels around. But every vehicle out there PIVOTS off of the rear axle. Knowing where to place the rear axle as a turn commences, is the trick The Steer Axle follows the path laid out by the Drive Axle. It can’t be otherwise. What makes a C cumbersome is the rear overhang. Exaggerates every improper angle. Were I instructing I’d tell the driver to go farther into the intersection to “feel” where is the Drive Axle and THEN commence with cranking the wheel over. It’s what we do with big trucks. Think of the turn as being in two parts. Place the Drive Axle. And then it’s a separate operation to use the wheel cut to bring it around. One goes significantly farther into the intersection, first. There’s no diagonal across it. And one moves a good deal more slowly than with a personal vehicle. Too hard on the tires otherwise. Five-mph under the posted ramp speed (clear weather minimum) To put it all in perspective: the hilarious insistence of having to have a higher injury risk pickup versus a family vehicle to pull a travel trailer. It has the same roots: a vehicle being operated abnormally which is driver-only. Better would be to LEARN: load that personal vehicle to maximum and drive it that way 13-weeks. With an emphasis on lowest wear. Sure won’t be whipping it around like you do today. Today’s drivers haven’t a clue that they must PILOT the vehicle. It has its needs. Try to respect them. Brains, not feelz. How long do tires and brakes last on your personal vehicle? Less than 70k? Rotation required due to wear on front set? These are indicative of insufficient driving skill. Braking into turns (too fast for conditions)? Etc. A box truck is the least “fun” vehicle to drive. Funny as hell to me to see a Moho with a towed. Two drivetrains is double the headaches. And having to unhitch to park is a problem I wouldn’t want. All for a vehicle with interior space compromised and badly utilized. My pickup is 163”. The Pete is 265”. Neither is a ballerina. But both are easier to drive (hitched to their trailers — former at 63’ long, latter at 72’ long) than a Moho of any significant size. Not until you hit the top (Newell) are they ever “fast” in pro hands. And I can do maneuvers with my TT hitched — all day — that’ll put most Moho + towed into the ditch. Take your time, OP, and cut the slices thinner. Each maneuver has more parts to it than it than you thought. The trip just takes what it takes. You either like this problem-solving or not. You want a 100-mph RV hotrod, then a 27’ Airstream behind a Porsche Cayenne Turbo will suit.
Slowmover 04/11/19 07:14am Class C Motorhomes
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