I thought the same thing on my 08 Bounder and was told this was the normal setting. Agreed the rear looks like they could scrape on a steep incline, but they never have. You do have to be careful going over speed bumps because the rear jack base plate can come down on the speed bump if you don't ease over them.
I can only camp from Friday to Sunday and all the nice sites are full by the time I arrive and I can only get the site next to the bathroom. Now with reserved sites, I can actually get a decent site for the weekend.
I can arrive before the crowds and have always been able to get a decent site. Now because people can reserve specific sites, I get stuck with the site next the bathrooms.
Let's face it - there is no way to please everybody.
I thinks toedtoes sums it up best. I actually took part in the survey about a year ago on about changing the reservation policy and stated basically it's a catch twenty-two. Great if you can arrive Sunday - Thursday and have a lot of sites to pick from. Not so great to arrive Friday evening, maybe delayed because of traffic and sites left are to small to fit on. Really I just wouldn't chance the weekend trip for nonspecific sites and it limited me for just camping in my favorite Virginia parks for the weekend. But I can see the other side where now the reservation schedule has nine months of sites booked only on the weekends and you can't get a larger block of time without having to move sites.
I watched a camper use one of those and it overflowed all over his campsite! The raw sewage flowed in the driveway and people were grossed out walking around the mess, it stunk really bad as well. I felt for the guy because the rv snobs really gave him the stares. I told myself there is no way I would ever use one of those.
Sorry, but that just operator error. To overflow to go on driveway and campsite means someone wasn't paying attention, walked away, or was using to small of a tote.
To each his own, it's easier for me to hook sewer line into 42 gallon barker tote, pull a valve, watch tank overflow gauge, close valve, disconnect line, hook tote to hitch, drive to dump station, dump same as if I was dumping motorhome. Than to go thru the process willald described
Do remember, that if you chose to break camp to go dump the gray tank, that means every few days you will have to:
1. Bring in all slideouts
2. Stowe everything inside the RV thats not bolted down, that could fall over and/or break when you move.
3. retract all jacks
4. Pick up/move any leveling blocks or wheel chocks you are using
5. Disconnect water line and shore power line
6. Move anything at your site out of the way that might be in the way of going out of and re-entering your site (bicycles, etc)
We love our Bounder 38P, built on the W24 chassis and paired with the 6 speed Allison transmission. The two are a really strong combination together. The wife fell in love with the floor plan, especially the wrap around dinette. In the seven years of ownership have only had two issues, which have been solved thanks to the help from members on this forum. The power gear electric jacks needed to be sealed to stop corrosion on the brake, caused by moisture. The second issue being the air intake tuba needed modified for driving in heavy rain, water would get to the air filter. Other than those two issues the motorhome has been very solid. Good luck in your search!
Look at Airdream mattresses as sdianel suggested, we or should I say our guest seem to get a comfortable night sleep on it.
Cons: You may have to replace the bladder every 2 years. We finally gave up and got a 4" memory foam mattress for ours.
Ours has the original bladder with no issues for the past six years.
Just a thought, what I did was when I had my tires replaced last month I kept the best inner dually for the spare. My RV is a 2008, but the date code on the tires were 2207, they were getting close to eight years old. The tires looked great but one started to get the small weathering cracks and for peace of mind decided it was time to replace all of them. The thinking behind keeping the inner tire was less exposure to UV light and it was inspected and deemed usable. I placed the tire in the pass thru bay and I feel I won't be at someone's mercy on a Sunday roadside service with a mismatch tire. With your coach being a 2009 and possibly your chassis being a 08 you might be getting close to replacing tires. I agree with others on just carrying the unmounted spare as the way to go.
I just had new Michelin tires installed last week. The date code was 4414-4614, which makes the tires produced in November. I thought this was acceptable and agree with you six months probably was going to be my cut off date. I used the fmca tire program and the discount was significant. For 235/80r 22.5 xrv regular price was $465, with discount they were $399. I started this process back in September and was told there was a backlog for this tire, so I think you have to weigh into the factor of the availability of your size tire. So I felt fortunate to get it done before our upcoming spring trip. I also took one of the best inner dually tires to have as an unmounted spare.
I don't know why the company stop making them, other brands offer electric, I would rather have electric over hydraulic, leaking seals, fluid gets moisture, pump burns out, etc, etc.
I agree, would whether have the electric jacks now that I have corrected the design flaws. The first two years were very frustrating when you ready to leave and the jacks would malfunction. Here's 56 pages of how the issues were solved by poster's with the same problems over something like two years.
Power Gear Electric Jacks
We love ours, it was the floor plan that the wife fell in love with. Our 2008 38P is on the Workhorse 24 series chassis with Allison transmission, so can't comment on the FordV10.The RV for the most part has been trouble free. The only real issue would be if the 2009 is equipped with the power gear electric jacks, at some point they stop using them because moisture would get in the jack and cause corrosion on the brake.There are a lot of threads on how to correct this and since I applied some of the solutions to my jacks they been trouble free. Overall we are very happy with ours! Good luck with your future purchase.
I have the same Workhose chassis and knew about the problem from previous posts. I cut the top intake horn off of the intake plenum. I turned it 180 degrees and attached it back on the plenum with a couple of screws through two pieces of sheet metal on the inside. I then wrapped the joint with duct tape and with the intake horn now facing the rear, it is a non-problem. That was 70,000 miles ago.
Thanks, that's what I plan to do
Thought I pass this on what turned out to be very expensive and could have been a twelve dollar repair, so it may save someone else. Our RV is built on a Workhorse 24 chassis. Left on vacation twelve days ago and commented to wife on first day there was a slight lack of power going up hills, but it was so slight I thought it was my imagination. On the second day we drove thru heavy rain most of the way to the campground, about ten miles from our designation the lack of power up hills became a real concern. Pulled off at exit and fueled up, plus checked all fluid levels.
A mile after leaving the gas station on a flat road the RV dropped down in gear and wouldn't go over twenty, with no shoulder to pull over, drove half mile more before being able to pull off, the check engine light was on. To make the story shorter, mobile mechanic comes out and checks fuel pressure (which is good) scans and finds maf sensor error. It's late so we agree to follow him to campground, unhooking the tow, disconnect the sensor and see if we can make the few miles. We make it there, but still lacking some power. Next day mechanic comes out with a tech ll scanner and determines the throttle position sensor is the problem. Order part, takes five days, weekend involved, swap out, clean maf sensor, believe everything is good to go.
I searched on this forum for the conditions of rain on the workhorse chassis and several post talking about water being sucked into the tube, with solutions. Other posts covering the lack of power from maf sensor or throttle position sensor being bad. We leave a day early in case there's a problem, two miles from campground the RV wouldn't climb a hill. Once again barely could find a place to pull off. Call mechanic and he's little dumbfounded why there is still an issue, suggested to unhook maf sensor and call back when we're at safer location.
While unhooking sensor I looked at the air filter box and thought could something have got pass the screening, causing a clog. Initially the mechanic and I had spoken about how I had changed the filter this past spring. Opened up the box and found the filter ribbing had totally collapse flat and was concaved in the tube, starving the engine of air. The traveling in the rain the last few trips and then this last heavy rain finished the job. The wife took the jeep to Walmart, bought a twelve dollar filter, RV ran great all the way home.
To sum it up I could of saved a lot of money if I had just connected the symptoms to this solution, but hopefully this experience will help others.
We have stayed at Tuckahoe State Park on many occasions, if you get a chance might want to take a drive to St. Michael's for lunch at the Crab Claw (approximately thirty minute drive). Also some nice shops in the town. Another nice park where you were originally looking at is Elk Neck State Park, and the full hook up loop is open year round. The town of North East is nearby with nice restaurants and shops.