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 > Your search for posts made by 'StirCrazy' found 604 matches.

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RE: House trailer endorsement in BC

For the pre-trip inspection do they expect you to climb under your truck to inspect the suspension and drive train? If so has anyone brought a mechanics creeper along? I did, but I was being a smart ass because the girl the first time was being a twit. this is the problem with talking a comercial walk around and just aplying it to a rv setting with out changing things to make sence. one of the thing is to check your oil pressure, how many stock vehicles have oil pressure guages now days, I did say if I had a oil pressure guage I would be checking it when I did mine. basicly memorize the list and for the things you dont have tell them if you had it you would be checking it but you don't so..... but for the suspension I think if you just check for play in the steriong then crank the wheels one way so you can look at it you should be fine for the front. you should be bending down and looking for leaks under the whole vehicle though, and dont forget to go in the trailer and tell them your checking that all the apliances are off and doors secured, and so on.... Steve
StirCrazy 06/13/21 10:49am Towing
RE: Couple of questions about DC-Dc charging

did you measure that reduction in amprage or is that a calculated value? I have been going back and forth between the 20 amp and 40 amp renogy, so I am curious about the effect of cable size to the load SteveBoth. Based on my 2 gauge install vs. two folks I know that installed 40a Renogy's using 4 gauge in their 5th wheels. Current was measured on all (clamp-on ammeter), but each installation had a different run length (20-30 ft.). Not an ideal comparison, but it did give me a rough idea. Renogy's input cable recommendations (specifically those at/near the maximum recommended run length of 30 ft.) seem to result in the input load being at or near 150% of the output current (i.e, 20a charger output, 30a input; 40a output, 60a input; 60a output, 90a input). I have not confirmed this with the cable gauges specified for the 10 and 20 ft. runs. If you're at all concerned about loading your alternator too much, I would highly recommend going at least one gauge larger (physically) than what Renogy recommends. This should drop the input load down to <125% (based on max 30 ft. run length). At the top of the Renogy page, you'll notice the Renogy manual recommends this in a roundabout way ("larger wire sizes generally improve performance"). BTW, I downloaded this screenshot from the Renogy website today (version 1.4). Some of the cable gauge recommendations are different from the version NRALIFR uploaded (I can only assume he uploaded an older version). We were going back and forth between the 40a and 60a Renogy (we have a 220a alternator). Knowing what I know now, I probably would have gone with the 60a Renogy vs. the 40a. If we had used 2 gauge, or even 1 gauge, cable (20-25 ft run) with a 60a Renogy, I believe we could have reduced the input load to less than 70a. Our input load with our 40a Renogy using 2 gauge (20-25 ft. run) is 43.5a. Lastly, if you're loading your alternator on the edge of its capability, don't count on a fuse to be some kind of current regulator. I've witnessed a number of fuses support 125-150% of their rated current before opening. I would only count on a fuse to protect your TV and Renogy in the event of a catastrophic short. https://i.imgur.com/xiLtyoQl.jpg thanks for posting that picture, that is exactly what I needed to see. they are specking a non critical volatage drop of 3 - 10% so of course the more the voltage drops the more the input current is going to raise to acomadate the lower supplied voltage. if we size the cable runs with a <1% voltage drop then you should only have an increase slightly above the efficiencey of the dc to dc charger. I am not worried to much about my altanatore on its output but rather on heat and the amount of use. I idealy want to size the load at 30% but weather that would be possible depends on the actual usage at 60 amps I am sitting at 38% , at 50 amps I am at 31%and at 45 amps I am at 28% so that is great and means I can go with the 40 amp charger no problem. Steve
StirCrazy 06/13/21 10:40am Tech Issues
RE: Turning a FW around in a Culdesac

I always go by, if I can drive the truck and turn it around with out having to back up I can do it with the 5th wheel as the 5th wheel tracks narrower. so if you want to know if you can do somthing try it with out the 5th first and see how much room you have. Steve
StirCrazy 06/13/21 10:12am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Couple of questions about DC-Dc charging

Even though I have a 220a alternator in my truck, I still played it safe. I spent an extra $30 for 2 gauge cable and reduced the load on my alternator by at least 10-15a. $30 very well spent in my book. did you measure that reduction in amprage or is that a calculated value? I have been going back and forth between the 20 amp and 40 amp renogy, so I am curious about the effect of cable size to the load Steve
StirCrazy 06/12/21 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: Moving to a 5th Wheel

I've been reading and trying to get on top of all the important aspects of our consideration, and I've been trying to keep my head because some of the 5th wheel trailers out there are so beautiful and easy to fall in love with. LOL! Think we've solved the storage problem and will be able to keep the unit here at the house. We're going to build a covered parking spot out 30' or so feet from the house. I really want to be able to garage park the truck and that is going to limit me to a crew cab/short bed truck. As to weight rating, that's what I need to know that I understand correctly? Right now, my leading contenders for a truck/trailer combination is posted at 12,995 lbs GVWR for the trailer and the truck is listed at 11,300 lbs GVWR, with a GCWR capacity of 27,500. If I am correctly understanding, the total GCW of the rig would be 24,295 and be 3,205 lbs under the max rating of the truck. My question; is running at 89% of GVCW rating too close to the safety line? I would greatly prefer to own the 3/4 ton truck and have the trailer be under 35', both of the leading contenders meet those preferences. As for love, the KZ Durango 301RLT has really caught my eye. Not too big, not too fancy, not too expensive, and just plain beautiful in my eyes. LOL! Maybe I'm already hooked? Combined GVWR is kind of a useless rating, what will matter for you is the payload capacity which you wont know exactly untill you have the truck and can scale it with a full tank of gas and the people normaly in the truck when you go camping. then you subtract this from the truck GVRW and you have how much more weight you can add to the truck overall. but you still need to get the axel ratings and what they weight also. for example my numbers for my truck are GVWR 11500lbs front axels max 5600LBS rear axels max 7000lbs emptry measurements with full gas and me are front 5093lbs rear 3483lbs measured with 5th hooked up full fresh water and gas and the crew front 5093lbs rear 6117lbs trailer 9326 lbs so my hitch weight was listed as 2100lbs but in reality it came in at 2634lbs but the important thing is my rear axel can still handle 883 lbs so I have room if I decive to put firewood or somthing else in there. Steve
StirCrazy 06/12/21 10:09am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Couple of questions about DC-Dc charging

There is an easy way to do this but it's going to make the people who have never done it howl in anguish. The feeder circuit from the alternator to the house batteries must be restricted. Restricted means resistance. The circuit must be made correctly. Professionally designed. A charge division must be incorporated and the only one I have found to be reliable is a White Rogers 200-ampere capacity solenoid that actuated automatically. A smart solenoid that prefers chassis battery first then house battery. This system needs no switches. Both the Blue Seas and Sure Power solenoids are good brands. The bi directional allows automatic charging in the opposite direction as well. Preferable. Amperes limiting is done via a fifteen foot length of FUSIBLE LINK wire. 10 AWG and ten to twelve feet in length. Fusible Link wire is tin coated but it's secret is in the insulation. Cross-linked polyethylene which can tolerate extremely high temperature. USA auto manufacturers have utilized restrictive alternator output wire size for decades and of course they have utilized fusible link wire for gross amperage violations for the same amount of time. Decades. For many years, GM used a 13 gauge alternator charge wire on their 10DN, 10SI, 12, 15, and 17SI alternators. Ford and MoPar did the same. The issuse you face with a Ford 3, 4, or 6G, is the alternator has twin internal rans driven by the rotor. And underhood temperatures can read 240 degrees which is punitive for an alternator cooling inlet temp. Fifteen feet of restricted gauge wire will limit ultimate amperage passage to around 60-70 amps. The preferential charge protocol of the "smart solenoid" inherently limits total amperage delivery. The fusible wire must not be bundled or wrapped. For over a decade General Motors avoided using a separate block resistor on their ignition system by using a STEEL CORE coil ignition wire. There was an override for starting booster voltage originating at the R terminal on the starter motor solenoid. Ford used this design as well. Just make sure your wire is cross link type and is fifteen feet in length. It would be light years more reliable than any electronic circuit. you could do this if all you are worried about is the amp output, but the purpose of a DC to DC charger is the selectable charge profiles as well as the maximum amp output, its like putting a 3 stage charger under the hood of your truck. so instead of just outputting a voltage and current in a profile for a starting battery you can now pick a proper profile for deep cycle, agm, Li etc. for yyears I have been disabling the charge line going back to my trailer,fithwheel and now camper to increase the life of my batteries. yes the altanator on my 2014 f350 is ECM controled and it does stuff that is not condusive to charging so the best way to combat this is using a dc to dc charger in the trailer or camper that conects to a new set of cables wited directly from the battery to a new heavy plug. I also plan on taking advantage of the upfitter switches in the fords so I can select when it is able to charge and when it isn't. if its sunny, let the solar charge it, if its night or dark, maybe the dc-dc can help out.... Steve
StirCrazy 06/11/21 07:37am Tech Issues
RE: Moving to a 5th Wheel

As for fuel mileage, with a 1-ton DRW truck with a 6-speed and 373 rear end, I get 17 - 18 on the highway not towing and 10 - 11 MPG towing a high-profile 15k (on the scales) fifth wheel. Rob Had an old ford with 7.3 diesel...got 20-22 not towing and 13 towing. I noticed similar comparing to my BIL's 2008 ford diesel. He was down similar to what you report. It doesn't sound huge until you consider the percentage difference...it works out to about a 20% loss. I get better in my 2014 f350 than I did with my 1999 7.3. The 7.3 had 100 ftlbs more torque and 50 more hp, but the 6.7 out tows it hands down. as for the 6 and 6.4, they did get bad milage and other issues. to the original poster, I have a 1 ton single rear wheel and I have 4500Lbs of payload but that is a specal order payload package and hard to find. if you dont mined driving a dualy then just buy one and you can towany 5th you find, but at least get a 1 ton over a 3/4 ton. you might find somthing thats in the capacity of the 3/4 ton but the extra stifness in the 1 ton is worth its weight in gold. plus up here 1 ton trucks are cheeper than 3/4 when you buy new as they are exempt the luxery tax. Steve
StirCrazy 06/10/21 07:01am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Border open?

the anouncment was for fully vacanated canadians returning home. all it was is that they no longer have to quarenteen for 14 days , only for the time it takes to get a negitive test result. as for limited opening of the boarder, I am thinking september long weekend would be my guess. there is no camping available in BC or banff/jasper untill then anyaways, I have been trying to get a spot for a month now, its worse then when the boarders were open a few years ago .... Steve
StirCrazy 06/09/21 07:15pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Amazon devices will soon automatically share your Internet

must be a US only thing, I looked on my amazon devides and I dont have the setting or app to disable or enable. Steve
StirCrazy 06/08/21 05:29pm Technology Corner
RE: low price Li batteries

Looks interesting, great price unless shipping cost is high. I emailed the distributor in Arizona a couple questions and he expects stock in 2 weeks, warranty will be with SOK, hopefully won't have to send/receive from China. The charge rating is 50 amps/battery so charging might be slower than Battleborns or others, but with solar or alternator charging could work out just as well. if you watch the video of the guy doing the tests, it charged at 76 amps with no issues. 50 is the recomended charge rate but I remember reading that it would handle a 1C charge rate. charging with LFP is all about how hot the battery gets, for the most part. If it stays cool you can crank up the charge rate, unless thee is an artifical charge limit by a BMS. The Prismatic cells I am looking at are rated in there raw form for a 5C charge rate max, but that like I said is going to depend on internal battery heat. If you cool them you could do it but why would you want to spend that much on a charger and no plugin big enough to power it. I do like that they are using Prismatic cells in this build and I like there box design, I wonder if they will sell bare boxes? Steve
StirCrazy 06/07/21 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Ford fifth wheel recall

^^^ Fixed the signature. I never thought much about the number of trucks till you pointed it out. 1800 is not very many trucks. The other thing is that mine is a F350 SRW which is basically a 2500 series truck. The recall is for some F350s and F450s ..... more than likely the trucks affected are duallies. if youes is a f350 then it is equivalant to a 3500 series, not a 2500 and is possible that your truck is one, but you wont know till you get a letter. Steve I realize that mine is technically a F350... so 3500 series. My point is that a f350 SRW diesel is almost identical to a f250 diesel. The fact that f450s and not f250s are identified in the recall leads me to guess that the dually trucks are the ones to be recalled. However, it is like you said, my truck may be one of the affected. I wonder if the F250's come from the factory with the undermount 5th wheel hitch, if not that could be why they are not included. Steve
StirCrazy 06/06/21 06:44am Tow Vehicles
RE: low price Li batteries

I like the way they constructed that one, everything is replacable and inspectable. thats the equivalant of a high end DIY build. Steve
StirCrazy 06/06/21 06:40am Tech Issues
RE: Regular Microwaves vs RV Microwaves

What is the difference between an RV microwave like the Dometic CDMW12B and a Home Microwave like the LG CDMW12B (note they are the same model number) The door on the Dometic says DOMETIC and the one on the LG says LG. Now because of the way the dometic was originally mounted the installer did some sheet metal work to duct exhaust air but the microwave itself is identical to the Lucky Goldstar. and in case you are wondering I've never been lucky enough to have Goldstar products work (So the one that is now in my apartment kitchen is a CDMW12B/yxm the suffix means I re-designed part of it, did some machining and replaced one LG part with a GE part, now it works great). But the reason for the ducting is originally the unit was installed in a closed cabinet the mounting flange had vents and they routed exhaust air into the flange... AMANA's vent to the front (At least the 2 I had did). so that would not be needed if the compartment is open.. you don't need to do that (I eventually opened the compartment) but the mirowave... Is identical save for the name Dometic on the door . Oh and the price tag. then you get greystone, which is not the same as any other brand for issues like the motherboard. mine recently went, but it was just a lose wire in a cheep plug. if it would have been the motherboard it would have been junk because the repair shop couldnt trase the numbers on it to anywhere. some times I envy your prices in the US, 40 bucks for microwave that would cost 150.00 here and the rv ones are about 450.00 Steve I bought a microwave at Cdn Tire a while back for $75. If I wait for a sale bet I could push $65. With exchange that is about the same. MasterChef house brand. ya I looked at a walmart one and at another place but they were all to small to fit my trim, costco had one but it wasn't 100 or less and the cheep ones while 10 years ago used to be all over I find by the time you pay taxes here in BC most are over 100 getting close to 150 that are the right size to replace mine. I was just shocked when a rv dealership told me it would be 450 plus tax to get it from them.... Steve
StirCrazy 06/06/21 06:25am Beginning RVing
RE: Getting started with sway control

most of the sway control in hitches is snake oil, sway is cause by inproper loading (not enough tounge weight. you want over 10% of the trailers weight on the ball, and if you can sneek it closer to 13 - 14% even better. with the trailer level and that much weight on the ball you shouldn't ever need any sway control, but if you do just buy a weight distribution hitch that you cn add it on later. in 38 years of towing, I only ever had sway once and it was when I was 16 and brand new to towing and I quicky learned how to load my little trailer I had art the time. Steve What happens when that 13-14% lifts the front end of the tow vehicle and causes the front to become light and less in control? if your truck is rated for the trailer it wont, and using an equalizer hitch puts some of that weight back on the frontif set up properly. the design is 10 to 15% for the hitch weight of a trailer for a proper set up. so take my 29' trailer I had before I got a 5th wheel, it was 8000ish fully loaded and I had 1000 lbs hitch weight. the payload for my truck was 2500 lbs so if 1000 lbs was lifting my front end to that point something was wrong. when that happens 9 out of 10 times you are trying to tow with a truck not rated for that load. Steve
StirCrazy 06/06/21 06:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Ford fifth wheel recall

^^^ Fixed the signature. I never thought much about the number of trucks till you pointed it out. 1800 is not very many trucks. The other thing is that mine is a F350 SRW which is basically a 2500 series truck. The recall is for some F350s and F450s ..... more than likely the trucks affected are duallies. if youes is a f350 then it is equivalant to a 3500 series, not a 2500 and is possible that your truck is one, but you wont know till you get a letter. Steve
StirCrazy 06/05/21 06:31am Tow Vehicles
RE: Awning LED Light Strip

Yeah. That was a weird comment. LEDs aren't even that bright and you're just replacing what you already have. A buddy I camp with (boondocking) has that LED strip right beneath his awning. He installed it in just the right spot so that it lights up his awning if it's deployed or casts some light on the ground if the awning is in. Most of us just turn on our porch lights at night and he has his red LED strip. It makes it easy to navigate around camp without stumbling and without killing your night vision. If Flyboy is camped so close to you that your LEDs kill his view of the stars, then he's breaking the unwritten code and camping way too close to you. He shouldn't be able to see much of your lights or hear your music. Sounds like he's close enough to smell you though. Not right. dont have to be close for light polution to afect the sky. its a big issue with citys and such now. I have the led strip factroy on my 5th and while it doesent seam bright it does light up a lot, but I like it better than the "old" porch light. I dont know where this unwritten rule is from but it must only apply to boondocking as in a camprground you have sites layed out. Steve
StirCrazy 06/05/21 06:27am General RVing Issues
RE: Regular Microwaves vs RV Microwaves

What is the difference between an RV microwave like the Dometic CDMW12B and a Home Microwave like the LG CDMW12B (note they are the same model number) The door on the Dometic says DOMETIC and the one on the LG says LG. Now because of the way the dometic was originally mounted the installer did some sheet metal work to duct exhaust air but the microwave itself is identical to the Lucky Goldstar. and in case you are wondering I've never been lucky enough to have Goldstar products work (So the one that is now in my apartment kitchen is a CDMW12B/yxm the suffix means I re-designed part of it, did some machining and replaced one LG part with a GE part, now it works great). But the reason for the ducting is originally the unit was installed in a closed cabinet the mounting flange had vents and they routed exhaust air into the flange... AMANA's vent to the front (At least the 2 I had did). so that would not be needed if the compartment is open.. you don't need to do that (I eventually opened the compartment) but the mirowave... Is identical save for the name Dometic on the door . Oh and the price tag. then you get greystone, which is not the same as any other brand for issues like the motherboard. mine recently went, but it was just a lose wire in a cheep plug. if it would have been the motherboard it would have been junk because the repair shop couldnt trase the numbers on it to anywhere. some times I envy your prices in the US, 40 bucks for microwave that would cost 150.00 here and the rv ones are about 450.00 Steve
StirCrazy 06/05/21 06:21am Beginning RVing
RE: Getting started with sway control

most of the sway control in hitches is snake oil, sway is cause by inproper loading (not enough tounge weight. you want over 10% of the trailers weight on the ball, and if you can sneek it closer to 13 - 14% even better. with the trailer level and that much weight on the ball you shouldn't ever need any sway control, but if you do just buy a weight distribution hitch that you cn add it on later. in 38 years of towing, I only ever had sway once and it was when I was 16 and brand new to towing and I quicky learned how to load my little trailer I had art the time. Steve
StirCrazy 06/05/21 06:15am Travel Trailers
RE: Anyone had experience with Bluetti lion power stations?

so I just looked that up, and I have a few concerns with it. 2000 watt hours translates roughly to 166AH, and it is pouch cells which are the lowest energy density and the most supseptable to damage of the three standard formats of LFP. its on sale for 2600.00 but like you said a DIY 280ah LFP would cost you about 900.00. you can gt a 200 watt pur sine wave inverter of the quality in that unit for about 2 to 300 bucks, and I am not sure why you would need two Mppt controlers but I got mine (40 amp) for 200.00, as for touch screen display if you want that I guess but there 30 bucks on amazon and I guess and ardurino could be programed to display all your things you want, so another 40 bucks... if all comes down to how you want to use it, if you want it portble to move around and dont want to have to do anything to build it then if you can aford it ya it might be the way to go. if you looking for the best battery preformance with a solar system in your trailer I would go the DIY route and not worry about the display, get a bluetooth BMS and you have your touch screen display on your phone. Steve
StirCrazy 06/03/21 10:32am Truck Campers
RE: Fun with solar and Renogy MPPT 30 Li (kind of)

seeing as you had the same issue with two different brands of controlers, I am going to hazard to guress the issue is with something you have set up, and not the controlers for the current issue. a 100 watt pannel is going to send almost nothing to the batteries when you are using the load for your fridge, especialy if it is a 12V fridge and thats how your running it. while it is under the 20amps that load termal can handle it is more than your 100 amp panel puts out. I went in and looked at my settings for Li and they are optimized for LFP batteries so using the gel setting isn't doing any better, in fact it probably isnt as good. try it with your sectond panel hooked up and if its a bit better I would look at getting a 24V split cell panel and letting the MPPT function realy shine. I have a 325 watt split cell 24V panel and it cranks out the power to the batteries. Im only guessing at how you have it set up but putting a fridge on the load termanals seams excessive, mine draws 7 to 12 amps on 12v mode which is why I never use it that way. Steve
StirCrazy 06/02/21 03:58pm Tech Issues
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