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Forum
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RE: Concerns about buying from a distant dealer?
if you buy from a chain all locations will be easy to deal with but you usaly get better treatment from the dealer you bought from. I know at my dealer people who bought from them are on one list while people who didnt are on another, the people who purchased from them get priority. having said that I don't know of any dealer that will turn you down if they have openings.
as for farther away, I don't concider 120 miles far at all and would have no issue with taking it back there if it needed warenty work. just when you buy somthing do a realy good PDI and take a pen and paper to write stuff you find down and make a list of defects that need to be fixed. then on your first few camping trips take that list with you and add to it when you find somthing new.
there are always going to be little things you will find like they forgot to put stain on the small end of that cabnet, or the bunk end grain that is only visable when its down. then when you get a sizable list you can arang to take it back and get them all fixed at once when its conveniant for you.
just make sure you like the people at the dealership and they are easy to talk to as I would arange everything over the phone email before I dropped the unit off for the repairs.
tell them about your concerns about being two hours away and aranging warenty work and see what they say.
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StirCrazy
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09/30/23 08:42am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Solar Panel Half Cell Discussion
My take is that half cell series panels (with the new MPPT controller) are more likely to be a disadvantage for the typical RV due to the unique shade and shade orientation required for more shade power vs the full cell panels.
This has not been my experience with half cells (aka half panels, half cuts, . . .).
I finished my 4th RV solar install about a year ago, and had several months to test them, both in shaded storage and on the road.
My three REC N-peak 2 365W 120 half-cut cell PV panels have been performing far better than any other panel and setup I've used, especially in the shade.
However, to be fair I think much of that improvement has to do with my Victron equipment, especially my Victron MPPT controller.
naw, it's not the Victron, it's the panels and the fact it's an MPPT controller. I get the same type of effect with my renogy and 325watt split cell panel when comparing it to my 5th wheel. I have a 480-watt PWM 12V panel setup on the 5th and the 325-watt split cell MPPT puts out more charge amps.
Steve
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StirCrazy
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09/28/23 08:06am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Truck / 5th Wheel Combo - Do the numbers add up?
Looking for input on my potential truck/5th wheel combo. A little background first. I have had trailers, but this would be my first 5th wheel. As I am opening this up to the weight police, I am looking for honest opinions and I don’t want to make a costly mistake. With that said, my opinion (as an automotive engineer) is that I’m a rule follower (regarding GVWR, etc) but I have no problem being close to the limit as I know there is a significant safety factor already built into those numbers. With that said – here is what I am looking at:
Tow vehicle
2023/4 Ford F250 4x4 7.3l gas short bed well optioned (maybe King Ranch)
From what I have found on the internet
Rear GAWR 6,340
Front GAWR 5,600
Tow Capacity 16,500
Payload 3,923
GVWR 10,500
Curb Weight 6,480 – 6550 (I see different amounts depending on what site I go to)
So – my math says 10,500 GVWR – 7100 Truck (added 550lbs for people/etc) – 200lbs for hitch (may need a slider) leaves 3,200 for pin weight. Assuming a 22% pin weight puts me at 14,500lb max 5th wheel.
I’m looking at a Cougar 290RLS
Dry Wt 10,124 lbs
Hitch 1,805
GVWR 12,200
Length 33’8”
I know many will say just get the F350, but the truck will be used 95% as a daily driver and 5% towing. Seems like I have a reasonable margin. ~4,000 lbs on tow capacity, ~500 lbs cargo capacity/GVWR assuming trailer is loaded to GVWR.
Does anyone see flaws in my logic before a spend a small fortune on these toys? Is the Curb weight of 6,550 for a short wb 4x4 7.3l crew seem right? I looked up all the specs for this particular truck and it seems consistent in that range, but comments on other posts look like the truck weight could be more. Also – any comments on the Cougar 290RLS?
ya you're going to need a bit more payload. As for being a daily driver, there is going to be no difference between an f250 gasser and a f350 gasser what's so ever aside from the badge. I can tell you right now add at least 500lbs to that pin weight. my cougar was advertised at 2350lbs, and it came in slightly over 3000lbs. Don't forget that pin weight is done with no options on the rv and everything empty or missing (like batteries and propane bottles which are right at the front. so, once you start adding propane and tanks, batteries, any options, water, "stuff" in the bedroom and more "stuff" in the storage below, that weight goes up drastically. I thought I would be safe with my 99 F250 diesel but I was over on the rear axle, so I had to get a newer f350
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StirCrazy
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09/28/23 07:55am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Solar Panel Half Cell Discussion
Did a search for solar controllers for half cell panels and came up empty. Anyone found one? ie A controller for 2 power point tracking capability which a MPPT does not have.
Regardless I still believe that these panels are only suited for the unique shade patterns available on a solar farm and not on a RV. But it's a learning process...
The only thing I have seen is dual channel mppt controllers, which allow you to have two different arrays with different azimuths run through one controller.
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StirCrazy
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09/27/23 08:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging House Batteries
Back in the day, 'solar' (for JUST the panels) cost $10-20 a Watt!
(Current cost ~$1-2 a watt)
- Mark0.
much much less than that now, unless you're talking about buying from a rv dealer. 350watt panels go for 230.00 or less if you shop around now
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StirCrazy
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09/25/23 07:56am |
Truck Campers
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RE: SuperSprings
Hi everyone,
I have a 2021, Ram 3500, diesel, single wheel, leaf springs, stock suspension, with a 3,000 wet weight slide in truck camper.
I do have aftermarket firestone air bags installed along with a aftermarket sway bar.
I am nit picking a bit, but I find the firestone air bags a bit bouncy, so I hit a bump and and the back bounces, then that make the fronts bounce and gets in a porpoising motion for a few seconds. I could go and get a pair of custom leaf packs made, but was wondering if any of you have the SuperSprings additional leaf installed and...
1. Do you like them?
2. What size do you recommend? I called and they recommended the SSA15 a load level capacity of 3,000 lb, but wasn't convinced of the answer. I wonder though if the SSA23 with a 2,300 lb capacity would be a better dampening ride?
The best thing to do if you use the truck for the camper most of the time is to get a spring added if there is a good spring shop around.
I had airbags in an older truck, and I would never do them again. They take your springs out of the equation too much, causing the soft feel you described. If you run without the camper more than with then I would look at Stableload systems, which the lowers can be disengaged for empty driving.
I'm having the opposite issue right now the camper I got is only 2400lbs so my overload spring is almost engaged but not quite haha there is a weird ride
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StirCrazy
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09/25/23 07:52am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Wfco8930/50
Lithium is not that different. Most "lithium" converters are actually not the best for lithium batteries.
The existing WFCO might work fine even if not perfect. Will not harm the lithium. Charging might be a little slower but will still far exceed lead-acid. Might short charge the lithium to maybe 90% - 95% which will not harm the lithium one bit. Might even last longer.
unless you have a battle born, they are telling people now that a normal charger will harm the battery on different forums. I can see their point also, if you never charge above 95 that means you never top balance so over time your cells can drift.
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StirCrazy
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09/25/23 07:45am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Pex crimpers
I plan on re doing all the plumbing in the camper if we decide to keep it and not upgrade it. What I am doing is also the same and getting rid of the hodgepodge of plastic fittings and useless 1/4" lines and unreliable cone seals and switch to pure pex with proper brass connectors. this also involves changing things like taps and such out to proper residential ones but the benefit of that is you won't have as many issues with freezing in the winter and proper pex will handle the freezing but it's usually the plastic connectors in rv's that die. Im not saying I won't have to winterize but it would let me just use air and if a tiny bit of water is left in a line somewhere it shouldn't cause an issue
Your best bet is to try to build it in sections and pull it into place so you're making final connections where you have more space but that's only if your layout allows that. Otherwise look for the smallest crimper you can find. you will only need a 1/2" one so look for something like
THIS
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StirCrazy
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09/24/23 10:19am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hard sided campers under 1500lbs with 6' int ht spreadsheet.
I don't know much about towing. From what I've read, since my SUV's towing max is 2000lbs, I should keep total weight under 1600lbs, correct? Looks like the Aliners hard walled pop ups are my best option. Thanks for your posts.
https://i.imgur.com/Y50AKCN.jpg
You have been told there is no such thing as a 90% rule a few times now. Your lawyer friend is full of it, they can argue all they want but the tow rating is 2000lbs not 1600. When a manufacturer says 2000lbs that is what they are comfortable with you towing 24/7 and there is a safety factor already built into that. As for the chalet style, they are awesome, my first trailer was an old old one. They fold down like a tent trailer, so lower wind resistance when towing, but you have hard walls and no canvas to worry about. those newfangled ones have things like heat and real fridges nowadays haha
The other thing you could do is buy an old truck and only insure it during camping season. then you could go a little bigger into say a 18 to 24 foot camper and get everything you need
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StirCrazy
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09/24/23 10:04am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Wfco8930/50
I want to add lithium to my travel trailer. I have researched it and can't understand what is the best way to go. Do I upgrade just the charging part or entire distribution panel, what parts would I need.
just upgrade the converter part of the power center. if you are doing it yourself you can buy a standalone converter and just screw it to the floor behind or under the power center then take the wires out of the lugs from the existing converter and put the wires from the new one in that place. This way if you sell the unit and want to keep your nice LFP batteries you can just put it back to normal and keep the converter/charger also for your next unit.
I only did a whole power center in my camper as it was a 1991 parallax with glass tube fuses and unfiltered dc power.
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StirCrazy
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09/24/23 09:58am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: DEF fluid
hmmm I guess this toping that went to 6 pages of nothing in the tow vehicle forum (where it should be, along with the manifold thread) wasn't enough to answer they all have to meet the same minimum standard and all will work properly in your vehicle. No one is going to put extra urea in it as they would be reducing their profit margin and that might be harder on the engine. I would rather have one that has to low of a urea concentration as it would be less corrosive on internal exhaust parts, but sadly there is no difference aside from marketing departments
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StirCrazy
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09/21/23 08:08am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charging House Batteries
Now that I’m reading about the Lithium battery’s it appears I can draw them down farther without damage to the battery. What is a safe level to bring those down to? Also with being non venting, non explosive I could mount one inside the back of the truck with me.........and be safe while sleeping or resting. I did look at a 200AH Litthium but depending on how far down I can safely discharge a 100AH may suffice. Am I on track with the differences? Let me know where a safe point of discharging would be and I’ll try to figure out my AH usage.
I’m good at wiring and mechanical so I’ll be doing the install myself.
Thanks!
LFP batteries are rated by cycle life. that is defined as a charge from 0% go full then a discharge to 0%. They are guaranteed to have approximately 3500 cycles at this depth of discharge (100%) depending on the manufacturers it may vary a bit. Another thing to know is end of cycle life is defined as the battery only having 80% of the original capacity left. so even after your 3500 cycles you still have a 80AH battery from your original 100AH battery and who knows how long it will last at that capacity.
You can do things to increase that cycle life if you want, so using only 80% of the capacity is one. I use between 90% and 10% and you can gain even more by using less but when you think about it if you camp every weekend at 3 cycles per weekend it will take you 22 years till you hit the end of the cycle life. some of the things that will shorten the life a lot though is charging when the battery is at a temperature below 0C. you can discharge then below 0 just not charge, so for myself I have mounted mine inside the conditioned space of the rv
I would still recommend a 200amp minimum. solar is a good send but as I found out its best to have a few days battery reserve for those rain storms and such.
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StirCrazy
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09/20/23 08:00am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Shore Power Plug was wired backwards
One of the posts burned, melting the plastic and burning out a piece of the black wire, and tripping the main breaker. Pretty sure I needed to replace the plug at that point. The wires coming out of the shore plug cable matched the diagram included with the plug, so I'm assuming that it is wired correctly now, but I don't have a tester, and won't be able to get one for a couple of weeks, at least.
ahh see you failed to mention that in your original post, all of which would have been helpfull.
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StirCrazy
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09/20/23 07:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Charging House Batteries
I'll have to argue that solar is not expensive and is effective no matter where you camp, it just varies between how effective it is.
For a setup with two LFP 100 amp batteries (I'll leave the cost of the batteries out as you need batteries no matter what you do) you're looking at you can get a renogy 40-amp controller on sale right now for about 100 US. You can get the wire you need with ends crimped on from a battery store for about 20 bucks and you can get a 350-watt panel for about 200 bucks (maybe cheaper it might have switched that to CDN on me haha. and say 20 bucks for mounts and a tube of self leveler.
so what are we at 350ish US for a system that just works. I camp in late September to lait oct up here in forested campgrounds I do have a 280AH LFP battery so I can go about 8 days in total darkness as I don't really use anything but the furnace, lights, and the water pump. I have had totally shaded sites, and I still get some charge in them buy ya I will tend to look for one where I get better sun especially when I lait season or early season camp as it helps warm up the camper also. So normally I am charged by noon, in a heavily shaded site with just some sun I will be charged before it gets dark. The only time I ever worried about my battery level was when I was running the set up with two GC2 6V batteries and it was overcast and pouring for 3 days. I was at 50% capacity when it stopped raining and started getting sunny, but I was totally charged by the end of that day.
Now having said that if you chose to get solar installed for you by a dealer then buying their kits can be very expensive, if you can't install it yourself, I would look at buying the parts yourself and maybe getting a mobile repair guy to install the panel and run the wires for you on an hourly charge.
The big question you need to look at is how much power that CPAP machine uses. I have no experience with them but that and your other needs will let you know how much power you need. Also, for battery size, once you figure out your daily consumption, I like to size that for 3 days' worth of power as a minimum. This gives you a cushion for bad solar days if you decide to add solar, if not it lets you camp for a long weekend without rechaging..
I forgot about the other question. go with the dc to dc charger if you are having any sort of recharging from the vehicle and LFP batteries. It lets you give the batteries a proper charge profile.
I am going to install one also, I haven't yet as my solar takes care of everything and I have a 9 day backup with the batteries but I am adding it more so I can use the truck as an emergency generator if something breaks in the solar and I can't get it fixed for a while.
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StirCrazy
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09/19/23 08:08am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Shore Power Plug was wired backwards
you could have just reversed them where they attached to the power center instead of replacing the plug.
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StirCrazy
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09/19/23 07:47am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Propane Refills
I usually get 20lbs in a 20lb cylinder (by weight). Not 20lbs less 20%.
are you filling an old tank with the old-style valve? If not, there is no way to get that much in it unless the place filling it is breaking the law. in a 20lbs cylinder, which are the same size they have always been, with the new valves and regulations they can only hold 16lbs or 3.89 gal. if a place is telling you they put 20lbs in or charges you for that, they are ripping you off or breaking the law filling the cylinders.
I'm a certified LP refiller and trainer. I've been filling LP tanks of various sizes for over 40 years.
My 20 LP cylinders when filled by opening the "spitter" (Fixed Liquid Level Gauge) until liquid flows weigh out at 20 lbs plus TW. My 30 lb cylinders at 30 lbs plus TW, and my 40 lb cylinder at 40 lbs plus TW. The 16 lbs you claim is incorrect. The LP capacity is 80% of the total water capacity of the cylinder, not 80% of the rated LP weight. A 20 lb rated cylinder holds 4.6 gallons of LP. A 30 lb rated cylinder holds 7 gallons of LP, and a 40 lb cylinder holds 9.4 gallons of LP. Actual total weights are a function of the LP weight plus the cylinder Tare Weight and minor variations due to ambient temperature differences.
There are some differences that density brings in. so,, while you can only fill to 80% of the capacity, due to the density, it in reality it is somewhere in between depending on the temperature. I was keeping it simple. so volume wise you can fill it to about 3.89 gal which is 16lbs but temprature if it is cold could make it weight more as the density is increased so you get a bit more propane in the same volume. it's the same as gas for your car, all volumes are calibrated at a specific temp. I remember the days we used to be able to fill to 100% and the tanks used to run the BBQ quite a bit linger haha.
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StirCrazy
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09/18/23 09:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane Refills
LMHS Why are your tanks weighed? When "your" tanks are out of date do you have them recertified? And are you concerned about the foot ring becoming loose? Just curious.
It costs more to recertify up here than to buy a new one at Costco filled. It's 70 bucks just to retest and certify a 5 to 40lbs vertical tank here, where for 40-50 bucks normally, I can get a new 30lbs from Costco filled.
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StirCrazy
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09/17/23 08:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane Refills
I usually get 20lbs in a 20lb cylinder (by weight). Not 20lbs less 20%.
are you filling an old tank with the old-style valve? If not, there is no way to get that much in it unless the place filling it is breaking the law. in a 20lbs cylinder, which are the same size they have always been, with the new valves and regulations they can only hold 16lbs or 3.89 gal. if a place is telling you they put 20lbs in or charges you for that, they are ripping you off or breaking the law filling the cylinders.
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StirCrazy
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09/17/23 08:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: TT Wear on one tire..only took few short trips
A picture of the tire would help also, while I would tend to go to alignment problem myself, I had the same thing two years ago and it was the actual tire failing. what is the wear pattern and take a good look at the side wall for any dimples or bulges.
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StirCrazy
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09/17/23 08:23am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Propane Refills
They can only fill to 80 percent.
ABSOLTE BULLSH!T !!
It is call a "20 lb tank" because it is design tested and certified to hold 20 lbs of propane ! Some refill stations just crack the overfill screw and fill until liquid vents. This is usually very close to 20 lbs.
actually by cracking the bleed screw it vents at 80%. I used to have my propane certification for work so we could fill the bottles for the forklifts and other things. the bleed screw is to be used in the absence of a scale to ensure filling to no more than 80%.
here is a Q and A from Texas propane if you don't believe me.
"How does a bleeder valve work on a propane tank?
The bleeder valve is built so that during the filling process, when the propane is going into the tank reaches 80 percent, liquid will come out of the opened valve. This allows the delivery driver to know that the tank has reached its maximum filling capacity."
Steve
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StirCrazy
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09/16/23 08:56am |
Tech Issues
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