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 > Your search for posts made by 'StirCrazy' found 702 matches.

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RE: Modding the new 5th wheel

Added rasberry pi unit and got sirius and tivo working on it. Do you have more info on this? it peaked my curiosity. Steve
StirCrazy 11/11/21 10:19am Fifth-Wheels
RE: lithium question

BFL13, Given that SiO2 can do 4C continuously, and can be taken to 0% state of charge, why would you suggest that it takes 2 SiO2 to equal 1 LiFePo4? because while they can go to 0 state of charge a lot more than a normal floded battery it is not a free reign to do it as it still damages the SIO2 and they can only do it so many times. the manufacturs still recomend staying in the top 50% state of charge to get the advertised cycles. I look at SIO2 as a normal battery that can take abuse if you neglect it now as one to try use like a LFP battery for cold wether. they still have lower cycles , cold weather capacity drop off and all the other issues asocialted with flooded batteries but they have a better ability to handle ocasional deep discharge to 0 and have a higher discharge capacity, but for some reason a lower charging capacity... but I think it might take two LFP batteries to replace the discharge of the SIO2, not because the LFP cells cant handle it but because the adverage BMS is set at a 1C discharge and I dont think that will be enough for a microwave. the bonus side is with two LFP you will get 180 AH of usable power aposed to the 50-60AH from one SIO2 and you can discharge a lot more before your inverter will start giving the low voltage alarm.
StirCrazy 11/10/21 09:06am Tech Issues
RE: Best generator

Remember that a small change in "DB level" or noise level is actually big sound-wise - it sounds a lot louder. It's actually the opposite. dB is a measure of power but to hear a difference in noise level is not linear. I am not a sound engineer or anything like that. In my experience, just a one or two number change in "DB level" is very much noticeable. I don't know the science behind, just what I've heard... lol! You have sensitive ears then. Generally, people can't detect a 1dB change. Plus simply moving the generator a few feet further away can lower the dB by a few points. actualy a 1db is noticable but you need something to compare it to, and it depends on the range it is at. because it is a logrythmitic scale it works out that every 3db is twice as loud, so 50db is twice as loud as 47db and 47 is twice as loud as 44 and so on, but not exactly. in reality it is all compared from 0db and on a 10 fold scale, so 10 db is 10 times louder than 0db and 20db is 100 times louder than 0db and 30 db is 1000 times louder than 0db and so on. I find even a very quiet 48db generator drives me nuts after a bit if I dont have music or somthing going to mask the sound, but that is getting better with the more hearing I lose evey year haha. when I first started camping I bought a 58 db generator not knowing better... used it once and i wont subject anyone to that again haha Steve
StirCrazy 11/10/21 08:45am Beginning RVing
RE: Please help with solar and electrical questions...

Ok, so when you guys are talking about a pair of 6v golf cart batteries you are not talking about having them charged by solar power? These 6v golfcart batteries are charged using a generator or something and can power this 12v fridge and led lights for a few days? I am looking at adding a $1000 option for the factory 190w solar panel and upgrading to two group 27 batteries. If I am going to stick with the larger 12v fridge and not go with the smaller 3 way propane. What is my options for running this while boondocking and NOT using solar? Is this what you were talking about with the 6v golfcart batteries, how are these charged? Am I better off to not spend $1000 extra and not have Forest River drill holes in my roof from the factory? I am all about maintaining and keeping this trailer leak free for as long as possible. Are the portable solar panels a better option than a roof mounted one? I am also a little confused at the responses that say buy a few 6v golf cart batteries from what I'm seeing they are $300 a piece and with the money left over buy a generator with an invertor to top them off??? A generator is anywhere from $1000 to $2000 here no problem. So I'm $1500 to $2000 into that option vs a $850 solar package from the factory? Thanks yes my four 6V batteries are charged by solar evey day. I would skip the 190 watt solar panel and get something after and do it, I put an 325 watt system on my camper for under 600 cdn. mind you if you cant do the work then you might not have a choice. I would ask them if you bring your own equipment how much they would charge to install it. I know most dealers deal with go power and 99.9% of thoes are just PWM controlers, you want to make sure you get a MPPT controler and a 24V solar panel. my 325 watt system I put on the camper which is a 24v MPPT setup puts out more charging AH in a day than the 12V 480 watt PWM setup I have on my 5th wheel. it is getting upgraded. the Problem with generators is now you are packing the generator, extra gass and so on.. but the biggest issue is up here places are realy restricting when you can use them.. most of the places I have been two have two hours in the morning and two hours in the evening, so not realy made for charging batteries but rather runing your microwave when making dinner or the coffee pot and such.. a properly sized battery bank is key and if you go solar that has to be sized right. for myself I do 80% of my camping with no power so it would be a no prainer for me for a few reasons, a 8CUFT fridge will carry enough food for over a week and they just sip propane. but there are several people who do boondock with the 12V fridges and I think the keey there is your capacity of the battery bank. if your going to boon dock for 2 to 3 days size it for 5 to 6 days of usage so you dont deep discharge it all the time. the best thing would be to do a energy audit and see how many AH your going to use in one day then you know how big of a battery bank to get. if you get it big enough you dont need solar or a genny, but you have to be able to charge it up when you get home. the solar you are talking about would extend time so you can get away with say a 3 to 4 day battery bank and probably get 5 to 6 days depending on the amount of sun. a large solar set up could make it so your batteries juat have to be sized for a few days of no sun, but hardly get used when there is sun. or you can get a generator and make noise in the forest... Steve
StirCrazy 11/10/21 08:27am Travel Trailers
RE: Adding extra batteries - where do I put them?

way2roll, 400 to 600 watts of solar will run everything except for the roof air conditioner. Your battery bank will love you. Clearly I have more homework to do. I have no idea how many watts the current solar panel is. And I have no idea how difficult it would be to add another panel - if I should even bother. I agree, My theory is always go with as much panel as you can aford as they are dirt cheep right now. I couldnt find your model details on line but does it not have a propane option for the fridge, I am assuming not. so is it a residentual or a 12v danforth style? I have four good 6V batteries in the 5th wheel right now, and 480 watts of solar. this is just enough for me to go indefinatly in the summer, but I dont think it would be enough solar for a 12V fridge. I would be looking at putting as close to 1000 watts of solar as you can get and a few deicent batteries. it may sound daunting but solar panels are dirt cheep now. up here in the lad of the frozen I can get a 400 watt panel for about 240.00 and I know there a heck of a lot cheeper in the US. also I recal you mentioned space to put batteries was an isue (the reason for this thread) if you decide you like boondocking and some of the more remote areas and your not camping in freezing conditions I would seriously recomend looking at LFP battries as an option. at 1/3 the size and 1/4 the weight (for the same usable AH) and the ability to put them anywhere that is another option even if you can't upgrade the solar. if you size a LFP bank properly so you could camp for a week with out charging then any solar is just a bonus. now this could be pricy and the best way to get the real small foot prints is to buy the prismatic cells and put them togeather your self, but it could be done with off the shelf LFP also. Steve
StirCrazy 11/10/21 08:15am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 45ft, would I be too limited?

I'm in the camp that says buy what you want and don't worry about what others say. yup me to, but then again, I didn't post on here asking for opinions on how restricted I would be if I bought so and so. for the original poster, one thing Ill add is our 40 foot has a 8 foor long back bunkhouse bedroom, so in reality when it is just the wife and Myself we dont even put that slide out or open the door unless we are storing something back there. as of this year the last kids are moved out and we bought this because they liked to bring friends and such camping. now we are hitting the grandkid phase so we will keep it so the grand kids have a room of there own when camping but realy for the two of us we only use about 32 feet of the rv, and if it is a good lay out thats a nice size. length is one thing but the layout is what makes or breaks how you use it to me. Steve
StirCrazy 11/10/21 08:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Best truck for large 5th Wheel

No way a semi truck with a much bigger engine and drivetrain towing the same RV as a DRW pickup is going to get better mileage. empty no, loaded up with 16-20K of weight, all day long. there not even working at that weight. More money to maintain and most likely more to insure. don't know about the US but when I looked into it registering it as a rv and insuring was quite a bit cheeper then my F350. maintence would probably work out to less over the life. instead of changing oil every 5-8000 miles you changing it every 150000 miles, or more. so even if its 3 times the cost its way cheeper over the long run. as for other parts ya it will cost more but the adverage person who buys a class 8 and converts it will most likely never have to deal with much as they just won't put the miles on it that will wear them out. I remember around 2011 when DRW pickups came out that could handle the big RV’s people were selling their MD Freightliners as fast as they could and bought DRW pickups. ya class & or MD truck suck, they were the worst of both worlds, they were bigger than a pick up, but pretty much had the same motor classes so they were heavy and under powered. Seat comfort? I have towed many 8-22 hour days and felt great. good for you, I used to do that when I was young also. now with a bad back and knees from serving in the military for 20 years I find anything over 6 to 8 hours is enough (I can push it when I need to though) , but I can ride in my buddys class 8 for 12+ no issues. way better seats, I wish they would fit in my F350 haha all this above is provided yyou can find the right truck. to register it as a rv it has to have so many features that are on a list at our local vehicle registration place. also you need to look for the right body/engine/trans/gearing combos to see the max fuel economy. some of the newer trucks are seeing 13mpg towing 80000 lbs trailers down the highway, I would love to see what they would get with only 16000 lbs and singled Steve
StirCrazy 11/09/21 08:09am Fifth-Wheels
RE: LiFePo battery upgrade question

Since both my staring and house batteries are under the hood I need to figure out where to mount the DC to DC chager. get a remote thermoniter and put it in the battery location and see how hot it actualy gets there, stop and go trafic in the summer will probably be the hottest. if it is in a location that stays cool then your fine, but most wont. the house battery isnt a big deal to move, its just runing wires from the under hood location to the new location. with the LFP you dont have to worry about spills or off gasing so you can put them anywhere. your DC to DC charger you want as close to the batteries as possible. and even in the situation where you cant move them it might be fine with a simple heat shield as in reality are you using the house batteries while your travleing? Steve
StirCrazy 11/08/21 07:19pm Tech Issues
RE: lithium question

EVE LifeP04 cells are 10% to 90% for 3500 cycles, they should still have 80% capacity at that point. If so these should outlast me. I think your missreading that a bit.. the industry standard is that the cycles they list are based off a 100% usage. they recomend 10-90% use range and that will extend your cycle life possibly up to 5000-7000 cycles, before you reach that 80% threshhold. then that 80% could be maintained for another 10 years or longer, if you treat them good. Steve Yep. This is why Hertz rent a car is buying 100,000 base models of an EV that uses LFP batteries. An expected battery lifetime of a million kilometres vice other chemistries. You can pretty much run LFP to zero frequently without as much worry of damage. 10 to 90 is much better though. The sacrifice is they are heavier and performance suffers a bit from the higher end models. We are kicking around the idea of putting something like a battle born in our new little trailer that comes with 2 x 6 volt AGM’s. The cheap skate in me says live with the AGM’s and wait a few more years and the price delta to come down. Guess we’ll see. haha AGM, up here, are more expensive that some of the new LFP on the market. and if you can hook up a four 6V battery sety up in your camper you can build your own batter setup with prismatic LFP cells which is so much cheeper. Battle born is way over priced now, there competators in the market and I believe they all agreeded on a price trying to hold on to the prices they set when they were only one of 3 range. Steve Yep, they are pricey. But am I right? You seem to have a good handle on this. The trailer comes from the factory with 2 x 6!volt AGMs. Would an LFP 31 not be giving up a bit as far as useable amp hours? They are in a heated area so that’s not an issue. you could be depends on the exact size of the 6V agms, but we can assume say 180ah??? then a 100 AH LFP would give you the same amount aproximatly of usable , but in a pinch with the 6V you could go down to 20% which means in a emergency you would hve a 144AH capacity. I dont like to size LFP to use the "equivalant" usable AH I like to take advantage of the size and weight and get more AH in a lighter and smaller package. so for me I would realy go with two of thoes batteries, run them nice and take that cycle life through the roof and when you need it you will have a total of 200AH for use in an emergency, but you'll probably never buy another set of batteries in your life. Steve Thanks Steve. That’s probably the way we’ll go. Although we’ll probably give it a go with the 2 AGM’s for the first season. This little trailer has hydronic heat and hot water so no big furnace fan load. I’m told by other T@B 400 owners that the 2 6 volts and solar panel are good for at least a few days of dry camping. But I know where we like to camp and quite often there is shade involved soooooo.... ,, the solar panel may be of limited use. The reality is the tow vehicle is a Tesla with an 82 KWH battery so it will never be a crisis as we can just tap into that reserve via the 16 amp accessory port. We did some tests to insure this would work. But it’s extremely inefficient as it uses double conversion from DC to AC back to DC again. As well the car has to be “on” which wastes a couple watts right out of the gate. A friend of ours bought a champion 2500 watt propane (dual fuel) super quiet genny from Costco. We are going to look at it and see if it would be handy for extended dry camping. We have a bigger champion for backup home power and are really happy with it but too big to drag with us. The little one is around 50 pounds so not bad. But we prefer not to have to drag a genny with us. Or at least not on a regular basis. But as you know, your and our area has a ton of great non serviced camp sites close to us. (We are in Vernon). It will probably be handy to have a little propane genny. Cheers and thanks for the info. I have two deep cycles in my Camper with one 24V, 325 watt solar panel, using the furnace I am go 3 to 4 days with no sun and forever if I get sun (I am in Kamloops) the reason I want to do LFP in the camper isnt for the normal camping , but rather so I could install a microwave or somthing like that and for camping in the winter where the furnace draw will be higher than say octoberish. also in the camoer weight and size are key issues and they would reduce both of thoes a lot. my 6V's work but you realy need 4 to be able to rent higher curents deicently. thats the set up I have in the 5th wheel, it is going LFP to reduce the weight by 246lbs in the front, get back a bunch of my storage space and take my usable AH from 235 to 600ah. Steve
StirCrazy 11/08/21 07:10pm Tech Issues
RE: 45ft, would I be too limited?

Thank you for all he feedback. I appeciate it. We have decided to stay at or below 40ft. We now have a new 32fT TT. We will get a new tow vehicle soon, pay closer attention to the campgrounds we like this summer and plan on a 5th wheel for Fall. MC I have a lot of issues up here in canada with a 40 foot. I am pretty much restricted to the large goverment parks and privat campgrounds. I pretty much have to call ahead and make reservations. Getting fuel on the road can be a chore. I started unhooking at the campground then getting fuel, or truck stops but they usaly gouge you with the prices up here. there is so much I was missing I also bought a truck camper for the little forestry sites, solo trips and such. if I was buying again I would find the smallest 5th that met my needs. you can go more places, save gas, get away with a smaller truck and so on. if I was looking again I think I would try find somthing that checks the boxes in the 30 foot range, but I guess that also depends on what kind of camping your going to do mostly. don't get me wrong I love my 5th and you just have to accept when you get to that size your going to be limited. Steve
StirCrazy 11/08/21 07:01pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Best truck for large 5th Wheel

I would say not even close to needed! When you see rear axle ratings and tow ratings of the current fleet of 3500/350's most have 5,500# Payloads and Diesel towing capacity around 25,000#. I would not bat an eye carrying that 5er with our 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW. It is hard enough to get people accept that they need a DRW to carry a large 5er, let alone a class 7 or class 8 TV! They want big 5er's, but refuse to the difference between the ablity to carry, and the ablity to pull. It's too BIG I can't go through the drive through, to hard to park in a parking lot, learn to back in to spaces! I thought the same but my 5th is 16000K and I pull it with a F350. my paid off, low milage, F250 was to small to legaly carry it by rear axel weight so lets look at the cost. 50000 got me a used f350 and when towing I get about 10Mpg (US) if I would have spent 12-15K on a class 8 that was in deicent shape, had the rear singles (usaly no cost if they keep the mid drive axel) registered it as a RV built a deck and put a light duity air ride 5th hitch I would have been under 20K and what would I have got. it would get 11 to 13mpg with that weight (assuming you buy the right setup) the seats would be way more comfortable for longer drive. true jake brake and engine brakes means you will hardly have to touch your brakes, the weight of the tractor means the trailer will never push you around as it is about the same weight as the trailer. when empty and runing to get groceries, it turns sharper than any 1 ton on the market so it is easy to manuver in a parking lot. the only disadvantages I can see are biger dogs. you would have to build a way for them to get up there or lift them, and you have to get your airbrake certification (but a class A has to get that also) one more advantage is you just use it for your 5th wheel so its not a extra expence when your not using it like a normal pick up upgrade would be. in my case yes I would have spent about 15 to 20K but I would still use my f250 as a daily driver, and when I am traveling in the class 8, get better fuel milage. now I had to spend 50K still drive it all the time but get worse fuel milage when traveling. not saying its for every one, I ended up getting a normal truck, although when I think back I regreat not getting a class 8, as it wouldn't matter what we get when we retire, I would be able to tow it. Steve
StirCrazy 11/08/21 06:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: LiFePo battery upgrade question

Some folks say it is best to add a dc to DC converter to prevent the alternator from overloading. I wasnt in this camp at forst but them more I read and think about it it makes sence. a altanator is optimized for a starting battery where most of us have some sorty of deep cycle batteries in our rv's the DC to DC charger will let you optomize the carge profiles for your house batteries while letting the altanator take care of your truck starting battery. this is my thought anyways, am I missing anything? Steve
StirCrazy 11/07/21 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: lithium question

EVE LifeP04 cells are 10% to 90% for 3500 cycles, they should still have 80% capacity at that point. If so these should outlast me. I think your missreading that a bit.. the industry standard is that the cycles they list are based off a 100% usage. they recomend 10-90% use range and that will extend your cycle life possibly up to 5000-7000 cycles, before you reach that 80% threshhold. then that 80% could be maintained for another 10 years or longer, if you treat them good. Steve Yep. This is why Hertz rent a car is buying 100,000 base models of an EV that uses LFP batteries. An expected battery lifetime of a million kilometres vice other chemistries. You can pretty much run LFP to zero frequently without as much worry of damage. 10 to 90 is much better though. The sacrifice is they are heavier and performance suffers a bit from the higher end models. We are kicking around the idea of putting something like a battle born in our new little trailer that comes with 2 x 6 volt AGM’s. The cheap skate in me says live with the AGM’s and wait a few more years and the price delta to come down. Guess we’ll see. haha AGM, up here, are more expensive that some of the new LFP on the market. and if you can hook up a four 6V battery sety up in your camper you can build your own batter setup with prismatic LFP cells which is so much cheeper. Battle born is way over priced now, there competators in the market and I believe they all agreeded on a price trying to hold on to the prices they set when they were only one of 3 range. Steve Yep, they are pricey. But am I right? You seem to have a good handle on this. The trailer comes from the factory with 2 x 6!volt AGMs. Would an LFP 31 not be giving up a bit as far as useable amp hours? They are in a heated area so that’s not an issue. you could be depends on the exact size of the 6V agms, but we can assume say 180ah??? then a 100 AH LFP would give you the same amount aproximatly of usable , but in a pinch with the 6V you could go down to 20% which means in a emergency you would hve a 144AH capacity. I dont like to size LFP to use the "equivalant" usable AH I like to take advantage of the size and weight and get more AH in a lighter and smaller package. so for me I would realy go with two of thoes batteries, run them nice and take that cycle life through the roof and when you need it you will have a total of 200AH for use in an emergency, but you'll probably never buy another set of batteries in your life. Steve
StirCrazy 11/07/21 06:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Winterizing lithium batteries

Thanks everyone this clears up a lot of cobwebs for me this puts me in the right direction. From a seller: https://www.solacity.com/how-to-keep-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-happy/ which is pretty much what I said with more explanation asside from the slant that Battleborn are the best ;) I got my numbers from the cell manufactor instead of a sales page as I am always worried about sales misconscrewing the numbers to protect there warenty, which they very very often do, and I understand them if they can just slightly change the operating instructions a tiny bit and reduce the chance of a return by 80% its in therebest interest. some take this a little to far though. there are also slight differeneces between form factors of the same chemistry, for examle cylindrical (battle born) pouch (nobody I hope) and prismatic (becoming more and more popular all the time due to the simplicity of building). most of the differences are in how wekk they can shed excess heat from charging and discharging which affects the rates. Steve
StirCrazy 11/07/21 06:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Best truck for large 5th Wheel

idealy a converted class 8 truck would be the best, and somtimes I wish I went that way myself. Steve
StirCrazy 11/07/21 06:34pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: lithium question

EVE LifeP04 cells are 10% to 90% for 3500 cycles, they should still have 80% capacity at that point. If so these should outlast me. I think your missreading that a bit.. the industry standard is that the cycles they list are based off a 100% usage. they recomend 10-90% use range and that will extend your cycle life possibly up to 5000-7000 cycles, before you reach that 80% threshhold. then that 80% could be maintained for another 10 years or longer, if you treat them good. Steve Yep. This is why Hertz rent a car is buying 100,000 base models of an EV that uses LFP batteries. An expected battery lifetime of a million kilometres vice other chemistries. You can pretty much run LFP to zero frequently without as much worry of damage. 10 to 90 is much better though. The sacrifice is they are heavier and performance suffers a bit from the higher end models. We are kicking around the idea of putting something like a battle born in our new little trailer that comes with 2 x 6 volt AGM’s. The cheap skate in me says live with the AGM’s and wait a few more years and the price delta to come down. Guess we’ll see. haha AGM, up here, are more expensive that some of the new LFP on the market. and if you can hook up a four 6V battery sety up in your camper you can build your own batter setup with prismatic LFP cells which is so much cheeper. Battle born is way over priced now, there trying to hold on to the prices they set when they were only one of 3 competators in the market and I believe they all agreeded on a price range. Steve
StirCrazy 11/06/21 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Winterizing lithium batteries

Steve thanks but would the core freeze if they are left outside? no they dont get hurt from storing them even fopr up to a month at -45C and up to a year to -35C. the numbers posted above are for usage at different temps, the battery must be above 0C to charge it and above -20C to discharge it. if you get below -35C then I would thing about disconection it and brining it inside the house. Once again PianoTuna is quoting numbers from older Li chemistry.. as long as it is not at 100% you will be fine, thats why I say discharge it to 90% and let the natural loss take it down while in storage. I even wonder what starting at 100% would do in all reality... even new smaller Li batteries that are shipped in stuff are normaly at 75-80% when you buy them now, not like 20 years ago when you bought a new cell phone and had to charge it over night before you used it. Steve Steve
StirCrazy 11/06/21 06:25pm Tech Issues
RE: More fun with Renogy MPPT and LFP

where are you reading the voltage/amprage from? Steve Built-in display of Renogy controller. Purists here could point out (rightly so) that voltage should be measured on the battery, but my cables to battery are short and currents are low so there is no issue with voltage drop. There was also voltage measured on the load in this particular case - fridge display - it is of course lower than the one on the Renogy. Note that while Renogy voltage settings are in the Battery Parameter tab of the app - not in the Load Parameter, some of them actually control the Load terminals, like Over Discharge and Discharge Limit. It disconnects the Load terminals. Other voltages and settings are related to charging process. ok so your scorling through. mine never comes off the charging voltage (defaultscreen) as I use my battery monitor to look at everything else. but Im not running anything off the load termanals so that hasnt concerned me at all. I have to try remember the default admin password again so I can look at the other stuff on the app haha Steve
StirCrazy 11/06/21 09:53am Tech Issues
RE: lithium question

EVE LifeP04 cells are 10% to 90% for 3500 cycles, they should still have 80% capacity at that point. If so these should outlast me. I think your missreading that a bit.. the industry standard is that the cycles they list are based off a 100% usage. they recomend 10-90% use range and that will extend your cycle life possibly up to 5000-7000 cycles, before you reach that 80% threshhold. then that 80% could be maintained for another 10 years or longer, if you treat them good. Steve
StirCrazy 11/06/21 09:43am Tech Issues
RE: lithium question

You can. But you won't get the same number of cycles. There are a whole bunch of hoops to jump through if that is the goal.I am not sure I understand this statement. Charging to maybe 95% with 13.6 volts should yield more longevity in a lithium battery. For MAXIMUM cycles charge starting at 40% and stop charging at 90%. How do you manage that with a wfco? your still trying to apply that old chemisty li limitations to the newer LFP requirments eh. I thought we alread edjmacated you on that. to getmaximum life you can still charge to 100% but dont go below 20% and dont excede 0.25C charge rate, with a proper charger made for LFP, or 1C discharge rate. 0.25 charge rate isnt a big deal as I doubt anyone is going to hit it unless you only have a 100 amp battery in a unit, put 300 to 400amp hours in and I dout you will ever get over 25% . even then the rated 4000 cycles (average) is based off 100% discharge and charge at 1C rates for both... Im good with 4000 cycles min..
StirCrazy 11/06/21 09:38am Tech Issues
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