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 > Your search for posts made by 'TFin04' found 5 matches.

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31ish foot Bunkhouse model advice

Currently own a Cherokee 264DBH and are honestly very happy with it. We plan to do another full season in it and then consider slightly changing our layout to better serve our family. Here are the features I would like in the next one moving forward and I'm curious what makes/models you might suggest with these features, listed most important to least. 31-33' Bunkhouse w/ super slide Under 7500lbs dry Good access to layout with slide closed Large fresh water capacity Outside door access to bathroom Basement pass through storage (NO NEED for an outdoor kitchen) Alpha Wolf 2DBH-L and Jayco 26BHB are two models I'm considering. I know other makers sell this layout or one very close to it. Who has the largest fresh water capacity? Our state campgrounds have no water and it would be nice to have more on hand. Thanks!
TFin04 01/20/22 01:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: Generator to run three RV's?

Equip all three rv's with hybrid load support inverter/chargers. Acquire a 6000 watt inverter generator. I would pick a champion. Alternately get two Predator 3500 watt generators. They can be combined together to provide power to the RV's. 6000w is enough to power all three? Interesting, I was thinking it would take more than that.
TFin04 11/19/21 12:35pm Tech Issues
Generator to run three RV's?

My family is considering buying some property to use as a place to bring our RV's and do some ATV riding on local trails. The properties we are finding do not have power. Some have power at the road and some do not. This got me thinking into the logistics of buying a large generator to leave at the property. The likely RV's that would be there are two 50amp 5th wheels and one 30amp travel trailer. We would visit in the summer and need to run our air conditioning units. I am not well versed in electrical power. What kind of output would I need to run three campers, and does anyone have experience with something like that? Maybe a tow-able diesel generator we could leave there? Or some other system entirely? Just spitballing ideas here, any input is welcome. Thanks!
TFin04 11/19/21 10:50am Tech Issues
RE: Need help - Weight distribution hitch installation pics

Hey Bobby, I just wanted to comment again because I re-read my post from last night, typed late at night from my phone and while I was trying to be to-the-point, it may have come across a bit harsh. Getting comfortable towing an RV takes time, and you are definitely not the minority who at some point thinks "do I have the wrong trailer or truck?" I think your setup can work, and I think you are on the right path to fix it, but it will take a bit of investment although still MUCH cheaper than buying an F250 and putting gas in the **** thing. In my opinion, I would focus on a few things: - Front loading your trailer as much as you can. Heavy stuff like wood blocks and cases of water and whatnot go up front. Sleeping bags and blankets go in the back. - Buy an Equalizer or Hensley. I think the Equalizer will do so much better for your confidence towing. - A set of Bilstein 5100's and Michelin LTX load range E will make that truck pretty much ready for anything within it's capability. If you do those three or four things and get the hitch dialed right, I think you'll be in business. Towing is a subjective thing and everyone has their own comfort level. I see PLENTY of rigs matched way worse than yours screaming down the road at 80, that's just not how I choose to live my vacations. Good luck and report back, you're making the right moves by asking for help here.
TFin04 09/03/21 07:22pm Towing
RE: Need help - Weight distribution hitch installation pics

I've been down this road before. Newer model short bed quad cab F150, a 33' trailer weighing about 7k lbs loaded, and that same EZ lift setup. What follows is probably not what you want to hear: -There is no way your truck has a 3k payload. Even the HD150's that get around 2500 are ALL on 6.5' bed platforms. You are probably in the 1600-1900 range. -Your rear axle is likely overloaded. This can be compensated with more WD but only to a point, you don't want to push the front down more than unloaded. -That hitch is terrible. I've towed three campers now total and have used the EZ, an Equalizer, and now a Hensley. I would absolutely never tow another mile with the EZ. Mine was so bad I bought a used Equalizer on Craigslist while five hours from home and installed it at the RV park just to get home. Even if you get the WD done right, the sway control is a different function of the hitch and I think the EZ is a terrible design. Ultimately I ended up with an F250 and a Hensley hitch, but I don't think either of those are necessary, they were just worth it for the peace of mind for me. AT A MINIMUM: Buy an Equalizer 10k/1k or simar style known brand WDH. Read the manual and watch YouTube until you can explain what each adjustment does to someone who has never camped. Hit a CAT scale to dial it in. Lots of those hitches can be found used under $500 and trust me, it's a small price to pay. I would be buying E rated tires too, but you gotta make your own choices. You are right at the brink of what *I* think a short bed F150 can do. That would not be a tow the RV out west setup for me, but it can probably be adjusted to be safe and useful on easier stretches of road or close trips. You should be cognizant of overloading the truck and trailer and pay attention to your axle ratings along with all the others. I ended up 300lbs over my rear axle rating with a properly adjusted Hensley hitch, and that was leaving all firewood, spare fuel, and bottled water at home. IE, packing super light. You can probably get there, but I don't think you ever will with that EZ setup.
TFin04 09/02/21 08:57pm Towing
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