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 > Your search for posts made by 'Timeking' found 26 matches.

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RE: Question about tires

I have the Nokian HT One tires (51 psi max) on my 2016 RAM 1500. TT hooked up with WD. With 50 psi in rear and 40 front, rims are both at 24 1/4 inch high (top of rim to ground). With 44 in rear and 40 front, rear is at 24 and front at 24 1/2. So ... it seems advice to max rears is valid.
Timeking 07/24/21 10:20am Towing
RE: WFCO Converter/Charger won't go to Float

After 72 hrs with no use of TT, still at 13.6, never went to float.
Timeking 06/28/21 08:03am Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Converter/Charger won't go to Float

Here is what WFCO says (and like howardwheeler above, no 13.2): "First, if your battery burned up just supplying 13.6 vdc to it, there was a problem with it such as a bad cell. A good battery should not have an issue with a constant 13.6 volts being supplied to it. With regard to the Float mode, if the load current being supplied from the converter is 5 Amps or less for 44 hours, then the converter will drop the output voltage to 13.2 vdc. Once in Float mode, any rise in output current draw above the 5 Amp level will cause the converter to go back to Absorption mode (13.6 vdc.). To go back into float mode again, the process would start over. Thanks and regards - Ted Krueger"
Timeking 06/25/21 01:21pm Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Converter/Charger won't go to Float

Parasitic draw on my 2018 Rockwood 2606WS TT is 0.33 amps, which is apparently sufficient to keep the WFCO at 13.6V. Yes, I could turn off CO and propane detectors ... risking not turning them back on. Bad idea that. So the question is "does any converter drop to 13.2 over a 0.33A parasitic draw"? I'm thinking not. Although posts above say 13.6 not a problem, but 13.6 did burn up a battery when I didn't check the water level for 3 months. At 13.6 I can see slow out-gassing going on in all the cells. It would be nice if there was a button I could press and the voltage would drop to 13.2, overriding all this 'automatic' techno babble that doesn't actually work on modern RVs.
Timeking 06/25/21 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

It turned out that it was the igniter/sensor (DSI electrode). Replaced and works as it should. $11. Of course I needless replaced the controller ($90 with cover). And I stupidly thought while I was tearing things apart, might as well replace the switch ... which wouldn't come out, and wires too short, then wouldn't go back in. Just a tremendous pain for something that should have been easy, and in hindsight shoulda been left alone.
Timeking 05/26/21 12:08pm Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

Now I am in the "throw parts at it until fixed" mode. I replaced the controller with a $78 Dinosaur. Same problem. So ... I took the cover off the thermostat/ECO compartment, and the problem went away!! Theory is that the ECO has become overly sensitive (?) and I ordered a new one $17 to replace the right-hand switch which controls the propane mode. All of which sorta makes sense in a kinda nonsensical way. here is a good resource: https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting%20Guides%20and%20Tips/Water%20Heater%20Troubleshooting%20-%20Suburban%20V1.3.pdf
Timeking 05/15/21 09:46am Tech Issues
RE: sewer hose that fits in bumper

As for "one that won't fit" I must assume that you are not storing your hose in the 3.75 inch ID bumper. Many don't fit, from experience. It turns out, I bought this in 2012, and it fits: Valterra EZ Coupler 20-Foot RV Sewer Hose Kit, Universal Sewer Hose for RV Camper, Includes 2 Attachable 10-Foot Hoses with Rotating Fittings and 90 Degree Clearview Sewer Adapter
Timeking 05/12/21 03:42pm Tech Issues
sewer hose that fits in bumper

So .... what manufacturer/model/color-of-hose will fit into the 3 3/4 inch ID square bumper tube? I had a pair of 15 ft red hoses with black ends that fit ... that I bought 10 yrs ago, not realizing that plastic gets brittle after a while ... and it broke ... and I got a poopy bath. Yummmm. So want to replace. Somebody must know.....
Timeking 05/12/21 10:24am Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

Wow. Learned something new, surprising at my age (72) and the fact I am a degreed chemist with 37 years experience in environmental science. Just when you think you know it all ... you don't!!! There is nothing in the Suburban manual that suggests the air/gas mix can be altered, and it doesn't look like it is possible.
Timeking 05/10/21 06:47am Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

Further screwing with this thing reveals that sometimes the gas valve opens but the spark don't spark, while other time the sparker sparks but the gas valve doesn't open. One fireball, luckily with the door open, is enough for me to get a qualified repairman.
Timeking 05/09/21 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb. There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean. As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable.
Timeking 05/09/21 08:36am Tech Issues
water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

There are a lot of posts here about changing the control board, etc. But this has me stumped. Suburban SW6DEL. If I leave the outside door closed, it will light, then go out, will not re-light, will not heat the water. If I open the door, it will light, and heat the water up until hot then turn off (normal operation). If I open the door, it will light, and run UNTIL I close the door, and it turns off. WHAT?!?!?
Timeking 05/08/21 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

Thanks to all. Will replace.
Timeking 05/07/21 06:19am Tech Issues
RE: voting and driver license issues with full time

SBI mailbox is up near Jacksonville, too far north, out of my "allowed" boundary. My question is about changing my DL, and voting if I don't physically live there.
Timeking 05/06/21 11:46am Full-time RVing
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

OK, I'll guess I'll leave it 'on' and keep an eye on the water level, and as soon as things wind down here, will replace the WFCO if continued monitoring continues to show that the dang thing keeps trying to fry my battery. Got enough to worry about, what with tires, towing, ......
Timeking 05/06/21 11:16am Tech Issues
voting and driver license issues with full time

I've lived in Florida since 1961, but am getting out of here and will not have a physical dwelling for some unknown length of time. Looking at Traveling Mailbox since that address is in South Florida and I won't have issues with my health insurance (complex matter too involved to explain). So ... I get this new address. I can still vote? I have to get new driver's license? Are there pitfalls I need to be aware of, and to avoid?
Timeking 05/06/21 10:50am Full-time RVing
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

After 4 days, the WFCO was still hitting the BRAND NEW battery with 13.68 volts and there was evidence of gassing. After disconnecting, the battery had 12.9 volts which is perfect 100% charge. WFCO failed to drop to 13.2 (the TT is empty and locked). It is my opinion that there was a 50:50 chance the WFCO gassed the electrolyte below the plates and fried the battery because I didn't check it for 3 months (forgot). My theory is the reason there is a WFCO in the camper in the first place is that WFCO is the cheapest Forest River could find.... which I confirmed by an Amazon search.
Timeking 05/06/21 07:18am Tech Issues
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

From the WFCO manual: If the output current reaches its maximum (normally caused by a discharged battery), this will cause the converter to go into Bulk Mode, which means the target output voltage will change to 14.4 VDC and a timer will start. Although the converter is outputting 14.4 VDC, you will not be able to read that on a voltmeter due to the voltage-current relationship. From the paragraph above, as load current increases, output voltage decreases. The actual output voltage will not rise until the load current is reduced, which happens naturally as the battery charges or if 12 VDC appliances are turned off. Bulk Mode will be maintained until the current draw drops to approximately five Amps, or until the timer reaches four hours (whichever happens first). Then the target output voltage is changed back to 13.6 VDC for Absorption Mode. Lights that are powered from the output may change brightness slightly at that time
Timeking 04/28/21 12:49pm Tech Issues
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

Full time but not stationary. To remind me to charge it I'll set up a task on my Outlook calendar. I think I will measure the batty voltage every day, and use that data to determine how often I should turn it "on" to charge. Of course, if in transit the battery will need to be on, which will be self-explanatory once I unplug and the jack won't go up! According to BatteryUniversity, battery voltage fully charged is 12.9 (which it was yesterday) and should not be allowed to drop below 12.3, as below that the battery will sulfate. If this time to drop to 12.3 is longer than a month, I will charge once a month. It seems a plus of all this, is that if the battery gets a little bit discharged, and I charge it, the WFCO will likely go into bulk mode, and 14.4v is supposedly high enough to address sulfation, i.e., a little bit of time being charged at 14.4 is better for the battery than getting 13.6 all the time. Maybe. I think that at one time I had a real "smart" multi-stage converter that would hit the battery with 14.4 every so often simply for that purpose.
Timeking 04/28/21 07:44am Tech Issues
RE: advisability to turn off battery periodically

Thanks. I am full-time living in the TT, and still wonder why when connected to shore power 100% of time, that it is good and/or I need to keep charging the battery. Since I am constantly using light, pump, etc., the WFCO will never go into storage mode, but will always stay in absorption mode. My question is whether it is good for the battery to get hit with 13.6volts for endless months, or whether it is best to disconnect the battery as long as the battery is still well-charged.
Timeking 04/27/21 01:42pm Tech Issues
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