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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: DEF fluid

Many people have many different opinions on this subject. The only factual info I have regarding pump def is I know my brother got some bad def from the pump once(his computer told him on the dashboard) and had to drain it in the snowy parking lot. He now only buys jugged def. But you have to think that's an unusual case as millions of gallons of this stuff is used daily by long haul tractor/trailer rigs. Besides that, instance, I buy what cheapest at Tractor Supply or Walmart.
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Vintage465
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10/02/23 08:10am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Truck was totaled, looking at GM 6.6 Gasser

Vintage,
MTN towing in my mind is subjective. For me it is over 6000' elevation. The 3-5K foot passes here in the NW US, a turbo or forced induction motor, while nice, not needed generally speaking. Over 6000', with an HP loss of 18-20% and higher above this elevation, this is where a turbo diesel, one of the turbo gas units, ie an Eco boost as an example help.
Newer gas rigs are better at keeping their HP/torque at elevation than a carb rig, or even TBI rigs, which are nothing more than an electric controlled carb.
Forced induction motors are nice options I admit. The trailer size etc Mike is pulling, he'll be fine with ANY of a gas rigs generally speaking. Along with a $6-10K hit for a diesel, it'll take awhile to pay off the difference in fuel mileage, yeah one gets a higher price on resale.....
Marty
I'd say you're correct. Everything is subjective in one way or another. And the new Gas Rigs are better than ever. But, I've been all across the US at every elevation and I never notice a difference in performance. Could be because I'm only hauling 7000 pounds though!
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Vintage465
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10/01/23 05:25pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Truck was totaled, looking at GM 6.6 Gasser

Mike
Not too many folks posting recently. The few that have posted about them like them. Better than the 6sp you have.
Being as the 10 sp has a 4.5-1 fist gear vs the 6 @ 4.1-1. Going with a 3.73, ene a 3.42 will have as much or more go power as you current rig. Lower rpm at 60....
I'd probably choose a 3.73, or the 4.1, only because I've put a 1-2" larger diameter tire on the last few I've owned. That 2" tire changes GR from a 4.1 to an effective 3.73. An inch to a 3.95'ish ratio.
Go buy one, don't look back!
Marty
Thanks Marty.
Looks like the only gear ratio available for 2024 is the 3.73. Everything I have seen or read says good things and MPG is way better than my old 6.0. I am bummed the 17 got wrecked I looked for that truck for 3 years. I wanted a long bed with rubber floors and limited options. Hard to find rubber floors and a long bed right now.
So I am looking at 2 3/4 ton on LT one custom and on 1 ton custom. Both out the door for under 63,000. Truck prices are stupid. :( Which hurts my soul as I am not a truck guy and don't daily drive it. Maybe it gets 3000 miles a year on it, 5000 on a heavy year.
I was out camping when this happened. My 17 year old son has a 2003 LB7 Duramax he came out and towed the trailer home. To be honest it is a good truck with 227,000 miles on it, but it really didn't tow the trailer much differently then my 17 did. So I decided I just don't need a diesel. 401 HP and 464 FT/lbs of torque should be plenty for the trailers I tow. The heaviest being about 8200lbs.
Regarding the horsepower and torque figures you mentioned. Those are good numbers. The big difference between gas and diesel is where the torque is developed in the RPM range. My 2013 Duramax developes 765 lb/ft. of torque, but it is at 1600 RPM. That's called real easy and quiet uphill towing. And the exhaust brake is nice going downhills. But if you don't do a whole lot of mountain towing, the gas engine should be great. Please, no one get mad here, just my thoughts and opinions.
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Vintage465
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10/01/23 08:34am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Strong urine smell in bathroom

Our new to us trailer on it's first voyage has a strong urine smell beginning in the bathroom and after pumping permeates the whole trailer. It's a dometic toilet. It appears to be tight and no seal leaks, I could find. I suspect it's a venting issue. Granted, it was 90 and we stayed hydrated so there is that. But black tank level was 1/3 full. We have not used any tank chemicals other than Galgon to this point.
help please.
So, had the same problem and after much washing, sanitizing, dumping, cleaning I found the problem...well, at least, our problem. 1st question, is your Dometic Toilet all plastic. 2nd questions, do you flush the toilet after every use-ish. Asking, because, we have a plastic Dometic and while we were boon docking we got into the habit of not flushing the toilet after urinating a few times in a row. With the Dometic plastic toilet I've found that if there is more than and inch or sow of liquid in the bowl, it will seep into the area between the outside of the toilet and the bowl and just sit there and ferment. I found this out when the smell just recently got so bad I removed the toilet and took it outside and when I tipped it back to check the bolt down flange seal all this nasty yuk came pouring out............thank goodness I did this outside! I took the toilet all a part to investigate the cause and the seal that the flush gate seal to is only for that and not to prevent liquid from getting into no-mans'-land between the bowl and the outside. Yes, I'm going back to the Thetford Aqua-Magic Toilet with a China Bowl. Never had this issue til we replaced the Aqua-Magic......cause I broke the bowl on the Aqua-Magic.
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Vintage465
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09/27/23 12:03pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Show us what you cook on!

I have a Weber Q for pretty much everything outside. I built a griddle for it to cook breakfast outdoors. I had initially kept a Smoke Hollow Vector in the stable for doing real smoke cooking but I've found that the amount of time I use it vs. the space it takes up in my little coach didn't vett out in it's favor. The WeberQ makes GREAT hamburgers. Far as steaks, chops, fish etc, it does a fine job of grilling but the flavor is just not there when you're used to wood...it is just a way to cook outside.
https://i.imgur.com/BNbRa1wl.jpg
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Vintage465
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09/20/23 09:44am |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Travel Trailer for Two

Outdoors RV Manufacturing has a pretty good assortment of coaches that have recliners and TV's in the same viscinity. The walk in shower could be a problem though.
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Vintage465
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09/20/23 09:16am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Black Tank only holds 1/2 to 1/3 of capacity

Glad it looks like you're at the end of the issue. I've found a few things that affect black tank performance..........if you can call it that! 1st.....forget about the sensors, as mentioned, they're a sails pitch and will need constant cleaning from jet pressure to even be in the ball park. 2nd, make sure you figure out your "water to solids" ratio. Meaning make sure you're not concerned about conserving water that there is not enough water to help disolve/break-down solids and toilet paper. 3rd, make sure you're dumping on a reasonabley level or leaning to the dump side surface.
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Vintage465
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09/20/23 09:13am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: DEF fluid

Tractor Supply and Walmart seem to have the best prices, even for name brands
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Vintage465
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09/18/23 08:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Solar Power forTrailer

I think an energy audit is a worthwhile exercise. I haven't really done one on my coach, but the highest draw we have is the forced air furnace. We had 300w of solar installed with a 30a PWM controller on factory "solar ready" wiring charging two 6v batteries.....barely worked. The I upped it to four 6v, added another 150w panel, moved the controller down to the pass thru closer to batteries and increased the wire from the panels to the controller to #4. Now I have all the power I need. Incidently, we don't have an inverter to run anything 120v/AC. We are all 12v and propane. Never run a genny either. Someday I will upgrade to an MPPT so I'm getting all that the solar is harvesting........but really for us it works good enough like it is to spend the $$$ somewhere else.
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Vintage465
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08/31/23 08:42pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Best Atwood Stove Mod Ever!

Did the grill igniter several years ago and love it. Nice when boondocking if one of us is up early fixing coffee on the stove so you don’t have the loud clicking.
Exactly correct with the loud clicking! And more loud clicking when it doesn't light!
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Vintage465
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08/26/23 12:55pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Best Atwood Stove Mod Ever!

All the wires and igniters in the kit are discarded. And I had to order up a set of 5 wires to get one that I needed to get to the oven pilot.
Grill Igniter kit
My Atwood is three burners too. The igniter has four "ports" for sparking. I used the fourth to spark the oven
Igniter wire and electrode kit
Note: Moderator edit to fix long URLs which made page too large.
I hate to say it but I'm a bit confused. How did you take a 4 wire igniter system and add a fifth wire to it for the oven? When I look at your ebay links it looks like there are only 4 spades on the back of the unit for the wires. Did you just splice two wires together on one spade?
My atwood stove only has 3 burners. If you have a 4 burner stove, You may need to add a second ignitor just for the oven
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Vintage465
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08/26/23 12:51pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Best Atwood Stove Mod Ever!

That's a real neat looking piece. I recently replace our tub/shower faucet with and all brass one. I also hooked up a hot water recirculating system with a 12 volt, food grade, high temp recirculating pump. I turn the pump on for thiry seconds then turn it off. Then I have instant hot water.
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Vintage465
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08/04/23 10:29am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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Best Atwood Stove Mod Ever!

Since the existing Atwood Piezo sparker tends to work only when it likes to. I converted mine to an electronic unit sourced from gas grill replacement. My brother did this to his trailer and I pirated it from him. I used a step bit to enlarge the existing hole so the new pushbutton igniter assy would fit. All the wires and igniters in the kit are discarded. And I had to order up a set of 5 wires to get one that I needed to get to the oven pilot. A very simple bracket needs to be made to attach the igniter to the oven pilot. I used the existing ones from the stove.....I had to love on the connector with needle nose pliers a bit to get them to fit the new ingiter, but worked very fine. It worked the first time with no tuning or adjustments. I think this is a very worth while and inexpensive mod. All you have to be is reasonably good with your hands. I don't think i spent more than 2hrs doing this.
https://i.imgur.com/Lo6W3awl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PSgCasHl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xGiFJmil.jpg
Grill Igniter kit
Igniter wire and electrode kit
Note: Moderator edit to fix long URLs which made page too large.
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Vintage465
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08/04/23 09:12am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Let’s talk biscuits

Ideally I make biscuits in a Dutch Oven out side with charcoal. Super easy to get the heat right and does a much nicer job. But.......when I have to cook inside with the oven....there is a pizza stone on the diffuser that the burner is mounted to. I cook them at 400 degrees on the bottome shelf for 10 minutes, top shelf for another 10....then to brown them slide them under the broiler/burner(the absolute bottom of the oven)and baby them to brown them....and by "baby" I mean you need to be there with a hot pad rotating the pan hear and there around the bottom to evenly brown them.....but you don't walk away or carry on a conversation when browning..........
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Vintage465
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04/23/23 08:49am |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: School Me on Solar Panels

I recent started a thread about lifepo4 battery configurations, 12v/24v/etc. I think I'm settling on four 230 AH batteries, and will likely keep them in a 12v config.
Now I want to figure out the solar. I am mounting the panels in a permanent position on the roof with no adjusting for best sun.
I see lots of systems where they are very close to the roof and wonder about that. Panels get hot. My intention is to run tracks the length of the roof and mount on them, maybe keeping the panels 4-6 inches off the roof. That will provide good ventilation and even shade for the RV. It will also reduce shadows on the panels from other stuff on the roof.
Now my questions:
I'm not familiar with current wiring methodology. Are they all the same now? I hear people mention MC4 connectors. Is that the standard? Do I need to worry about that or will all the hardware be compatible right out of the box?
What about the panels themselves? I've understood that monocrystalline is superior to poly for RV use. Is that still the case? It sounds like most panels are manufactured with shade tolerant diodes built in now. What other considerations are there?
I'm not a fan of MC4 connectors. I think most people like them because that's what most panels come with and there are many branch connectors and thins to tie the panels together. Personally I think thers a lot of fittings to get stuff connected that you can just do with a combiner box, lugs and water proof crimp connectors. I just think it's a lot cleaner, tidy-er and less joints for things to go sideways.
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Vintage465
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04/11/23 05:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: The Bacon Thread

I make my own bacon from pork belly's and from the fat end of Pork Butt's. So Bacon is my thing. My best bacon is made with Cure #1, salt, honey, molasses, dry mustard and picking spice. Brine for 1 week then smoke for 12 hours. I sometimes do Canadian Bacon in the same brine Also amazing. For the most part I always cook bacon in a pan in the oven @ 375 degrees. It's easier to manage the temp and not chance burning it due to the honey and molasses is more burnable compared to dextrose use commercial bacon. Far as recipes go, I'm pretty straight up liking it with eggs. I'll chop it into "Eggs Erroneous" as my brother calls it, basically scrambled eggs with everything in it. Bacon on a burger....or a favorite of my sons and mine, chicken livers wrapped in bacon.
Now here is exotic bacon I made called Shinkenspek. This recipe for Shinkenspeck is from Rytek Kutas sausage and meat curing book. He calls regular bacon "poor mans bacon" compared to this. Not sure I agree with that but this is real fun. It's a cured boneless sirloin and wrapped tightly with a cured belly then lightly smoked. Dried Juniper Berrys in the brine. Slice off a 1/2" slices and fry. It will bulge up so a bacon press is good to keep it flat on the skillet.
https://i.imgur.com/i9Hqv31l.jpg
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Vintage465
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04/03/23 09:13pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Oh,Oh, Soft Floor !

So to start with, I'd remove all the lower aluminum trim, the hatch and prolly the fender area trim and see what that affords you. You may be able to gently use a heat gun to see if the glass/board laminant will let go of the studs and plate. On our coach under the dinette they used fiberglass/styrofoam cut out's from the doors and window for the base. What I was thinking if you wanted to do a test is take one of those and apply a little heat to it ans see if it lets go. Otherwise I think you're going to have to cut some paneling on the inside and do the dirty deed from there. You may be able to get somd of that corner tape that matches the paneling to patch it back up.
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Vintage465
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03/30/23 01:29pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Oh,Oh, Soft Floor !

As Mr Spock would say, "a picture could help my analysis". But all Spockisms aside, glass is going to be more challenging to sneek a piece of wood away from. My first thought is obviously remove as much of the trim as possible for more stretchabilty. Think about maybe a heat gun used very.....very carefully and see if it loosens the adhesive. Or...maybe there is an option to remove it from the inside of the coach or at least get some help from there. I have a 2015 20fq, assuming the floor plan is the same if I knew where your issue is I could go scope mine out and check out options.
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Vintage465
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03/29/23 09:40pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water saver for shower.

It seems obvious that there will never be any sort of universal agreement or even understanding on this topic. There are just too many differences between the rigs we have, the type of camping we do and the access to water where we camp. Someone who has a big rig with a 100 gallons of water, or who takes short trips, or has ready access to water, is not going to understand camping in remote areas for many days with a small FW tank. I have seen plenty of people camping in van conversions or other small rigs and getting by for days with 10 gallons of water or less.
So exceedingly correct! I used to boon dock for a week, on what I believe was a 35-45 gallon tank. Showering was out of the question. We'd be looking for water after 5 conservative days. Now-a-days, we have 60 gallons and we pretty easily go 12 day's and take a shower or two each. Buying 10 each one gallons of drinking water to make coffee and have for drinking really helps keep the water in the tank. All kinds of ways to make it work and it's neat to see other campers ideas.
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Vintage465
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03/24/23 01:30pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Water saver for shower.

I carry lots of water because I eat on real dishes, take daily showers and I don't want my black tank clogging up.
That black tank clogging up thing......I've found that sometimes in our efforts to save water boondocking we starve the black tank for water it needs to do it's job. Now-a-days I use a plastic dish pan in the sink in the kitchen and pour some of that left over water in the black tank to mitigate that. All bueno now.
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Vintage465
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03/24/23 08:30am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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