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 > Your search for posts made by 'Vintage465' found 138 matches.

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RE: New to Outdoor Dutch Oven Cooking

Thanks for the chart Vintage 465! Very helpful Much appreciated. Yeah, if I was just starting out, I'd go get a couple rounds crack and cook biscuits. They're about $5.00 a round and a 12" D/O will just about swallow one round of crack and cook biscuits. That way you're not really out a lot if you toast em too much.............. At $5.00 a tube for biscuits, you're either getting ripped off or purchasing ultra-gourmet, all-natural, free-range, organic biscuits. Basic store-brand ones run about $.50 around these parts. One useful "secret" to keep in mind for dutch oven (and other) cooking is that very often oven temperatures are not at all critical for the success of a dish. If it's a little cooler, it'll just take a little longer to cook; and if it's a little warmer, it'll merely be done sooner. Keep an eye on things and adjust the heat according to what you see and you should have no great trouble. It does, of course, help to cook things, at least at the start, that you know are not too sensitive in that regard. For that matter, charcoal briquets behave a bit differently than coals from a campfire, and it's about impossible to count the latter accurately, but both work fine. OK......So the crack and bake Pillbury are $2.00 a roll. I never buy them.....but my cousin uses the heck out of them. I bake from scratch. But I think it's an easy way to learn the oven.............
Vintage465 08/08/20 09:19pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Duramax tuner

I've read some good stuff about the Durmax tuners. But normally when I think of a well thought out performance package from anywhere, I seem to come back to Banks. They really seem to look at and research all aspects of performance and reliability so you end up with a pickup that has better all around performance but won't smoke your tranny or cause you grief when you need to get it smogged........
Vintage465 08/08/20 01:30pm Tow Vehicles
RE: New to Outdoor Dutch Oven Cooking

Thanks for the chart Vintage 465! Very helpful Much appreciated. Yeah, if I was just starting out, I'd go get a couple rounds crack and cook biscuits. They're about $5.00 a round and a 12" D/O will just about swallow one round of crack and cook biscuits. That way you're not really out a lot if you toast em too much..............
Vintage465 08/08/20 01:20pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Setting up my solar system

You're missing an opportunity if you run all 4 panels in parallel. With 4 you will yield a little better if you run 2S x 2P. Your MPPT controller can take better advantage of the higher voltage in all light conditions. You can also downsize some wiring if you choose. No point in having an MPPT if you run them all parallel. No need for any extra breakers IMO, just one to protect, and more importantly to disconnect, the entire array. I'm not really understanding what the advantage to running in series over parallel is, or running a parallel-series. Well, other than being able to downsize wiring, and presumably a bit easier install. Really the only reason I want to go parallel is for better partial shade performance... Assuming that I am understanding that correctly. Others no doubt will disagree, but I don't think there is a hard line right answer for series vs. parallel. When I revamped my system, I set it up so I can go either way. Yup, fat wire(4ga)from the combiner box to the controller that is close to the battery. The combiner is large enough that I can wire it into series if I don't get the performance I want from parallel. If I do ever go series I will need to up my controller to an MPPT to handle the extra voltage input. My point, build with options............
Vintage465 08/08/20 08:55am Tech Issues
RE: New to Outdoor Dutch Oven Cooking

I have a 10" Dutch Oven. Below....with any luck is a chart that should get you going in the right directions. There are many variables in D/O cooking and not a lot of "constants". I think the best way to learn D/O cooking is to find one thing and perfect the cooking of that one thing and then move to the next one. Biscuits is an easy start to learn. I've found with biscuits, after 20 minutes, take the coals from the bottom and put them on the top to minimize the cooking on the bottom and brown the top. The Scout's Outdoor Cookbook" is a real good hand book to get you started. https://i.imgur.com/Ss5ehqGl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/luAQpzJl.jpg
Vintage465 08/08/20 08:21am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Thinking of New Aluminum Sided Travel Trailer

Well, at the risk of following suit with the other replies....I say go with a good fiberglass over aluminum frame that has vacuum/laminated walls. I noticed you were pretty specific about wanting to know only about aluminum sided trailers.....I like Outdoors RV Mfg and Northwood products. I think Lance is a good unit too. But I actually think any aluminum framed with laminated fiberglass walls is better than any wood framed and aluminum unit for long term durability. Just my opinion..........
Vintage465 08/02/20 02:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Fords new 7.3 Godzilla

I think it is interesting to hear that most of "comparison" in this thread to Diesels are in relationship to fuel mileage. To the best of my ability predicting the future.....I've owned my last Gasser and would never tow without a Diesel. For me it's all about how easy it tows and really nothing else. Tows easier, quieter, up hills, down hills and flat. IF I get slowed on a steep up hill grade due to some loser in the fast lane, I can gain speed rapidly up steep hills @ 2500 RPM. And, yes there is a lot under the hood of the new Diesels and it's gonna hurt when "fix it time" comes. But I will live with that in order to have the towing ease.........
Vintage465 08/01/20 07:52am Tow Vehicles
Up sized my W.D. Bars

I've got a Creek Side(Outdoors RV Mfg.)20fq. Tongue weight is 1200 pounds, trailer weight is 6700 pounds. 2013 Duramax 2500HD. Been using 1000 pound bars and I always thought there was a little too much bounce when I'd come to a Whoop-de-do in the highway. Upgraded the shocks to a set of Bilstiens and that help some but never got me to what I thought it should be. There was only so much tilt I could get out of the head to pre-load the springs.....so I upped to a new Reese Trunnion unit with 1200 pound bars and the head is very adjustable from a tilt perspective. After some tilt adjustments I got this dude down and the ride is great and the bounce is gone other than what you'd expect when encountering un-even road crossings, bridges that were never even in the first place and worse now after 10 repaving jobs! I actually think if I could've got a little more tilt in the head of the original one I could have got it, but this did fix it.............for about $500.00 that is!
Vintage465 07/30/20 09:56pm Towing
RE: Where to buy awning fabric?

Just one more thing if it means anything to you, Tough Top Awning material is USA made. I like that.
Vintage465 07/21/20 06:31am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Where to buy awning fabric?

I just received our new fabric from Tough Top. 5 year warranty. Factory says they'll usually last 10 years with decent care. 19 oz material.
Vintage465 07/19/20 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
TST, TPMS with internal sensors

I'm ready to stop taking chances with a blow out and get a TST pressure monitoring system for my trailer tires. Then I came across the internal sensor type set up. Anyone used one of these? Seems pretty legit and straight forward. No doubt if there was an issue with a sensor you'd have to take the tire off, run it to a tire shop, then have a look.............that does sound like a pain.........if something went wrong Thoughts? https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-internal-sensor-systemtst-507-int-4.html
Vintage465 07/15/20 07:02pm Tech Issues
RE: mono vs poly real life testing

I went with what the dealer sold me and didn't know any different! Turned out to be Samlex Poly's for 150w @ $500.00 each. They work fine, but surely I could have done my self better for the $1650.00 I have invested in the 3 panels and the wimpy 30a PWM charger. I knew no better at the time, but I know better now, and it'd be best if others learned from my errors.
Vintage465 07/15/20 01:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Catching Cleaning Cooking Trout, A Refresher Course!

I fillet them, make sure there are no rib bones left in them....sprinkle both sides the Zatarains Cajun Seasoning, dip in beaten egg, then Panko's then fry serve with tartar sauce. Best ever IMHO
Vintage465 07/15/20 01:10pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Question about solar panels

Thanks for all the information! I definitely plan to get a battery, more so now since the emergency brake function is pretty important. Another thing that I wish I put in the original question is that I'm aware an inverter is needed to convert the dc power from the panels to ac. Do the travel trailer wires that connect to the battery have their own inverter or something? And where would I install that? I'd imagine that I'd have to fiddle with the wiring inside as leaving an inverter outside sounds like a bad idea to me I'm seeing some corrections that need to be made to your thoughts and explanations. This statement "convert the dc power from the panels to ac""convert the dc power from the panels to ac" is incorrect as the power is not from the panels. The power is from the battery bank. The panels and controller only charge the batterey bank. The inverter is or can be done in a couple ways. One way is to wire the 120v side(output)into your 120v system on you RV and has some kind of transfer switch associated with it so when you plug the trailer into shore power it doesn't fry the inverter. Another way is to kind of have the inverter as a stand alone source of 120v power. In either case, you want to get the inverter as close to the battery bank as possible and be real generous with the 12v wire size....Generous is not #6 or #4. Generous is like 1/0, 2/0 etc. This of course depends on the rating of the output of the inverter and how close it is to the battery bank,
Vintage465 07/15/20 10:53am Travel Trailers
RE: Switching from 12 volt to 6 volt batteries

Couple things to add, That 12v fridge is bad news for boondocking. They are very inefficient. Normally only find those in popup style rigs. But, I guess you're stuck with it. Get more battery. I like the Vmax line of 6vdc. And with those AGM, you do not need to put them in a battery box. They are safe in any orientation. That might allow you to get even more than 2 of them, but you do need pairs. Unless you look at the Vmax 12vdc AGM. I don't have the 12v, but I would trust the name. The cheap club store batteries will need to be in a box, and you'll likely end up replacing them sooner. Depending on how you maintain them. Might or might not be worth the savings to you. One of the main reasons I chose a Danfos compressor style 12V fridge /freezer was because the they are a favourite of the ultimate boondockers which are yachters. They can't use propane fridges because propane is heavier than air and could sink to the lower decks if there was a leak and could cause an explosion. Our camping style is 98% dry/boondock camping. For 5 years, we camped with a 7.5cuft NovaKool fridge/freezer which when cycling used 4.4A. They are more efficient than absorption fridges using 1/3 less energy. They cool much quicker, for the same outer dimensions, have 1/3 more volume, keep more consistant temperatures in hot ambient temperatures and are not a fire hazard. We almost never needed our 2000W genny as we had 4 6V AGM batteries and lots of solar. People who use the term"12V fridges are bad news for boondocking" have never had this kind of fridge. They are becoming much more popular for so many reasons as long as you figure in more electrical capacity(batteries, solar) if you don't want to run your genny. I have a 6 cuft absorption fridge in my TT which came with the new unit. If it gives up the ghost down the line, a 9 cuft NovaKool will fit exactly in the same opening and as I already have plenty of solar and 4 6V GC-2 batteries and more room for extra solar, this is the route I will go. Dave That does sound like an efficient 12v fridge. My concern as a boon docker is I hate.........did I say hate?.... Generators. I'll do most anything not to use a generator. And I like camping year round. That include weather that gets down in the teens. I'd need enough battery to run my furnace to heat the the belly of the coach to keep the tanks warm enough. I can keep up with my furnace pretty easily with my solar, but I think if you tagged another fairly high draw unit on the 4-6v's it'd get critical. Bottom line is you really have to prioritize your usage choice. I want a furnace, a C-pap, no genny and winter. Prolly nixes the 12v fridge...for my boon docking needs. Howdy, to another Creekside owner. Another neat plus for compressor fridges is that they can be operational without problems out of level for long periods of time.( Again, think of yachts). No question, the NovaKool was the largest single draw of battery power bar none.So if you had to choose, get rid of the OEM heater fan and put in a Cat heater. I have no experience with these but some say they work well. My absorption fridge works fine but I would replace it in a heart beat if it quit. Dave Problem with the CAT heater will not heat the belly in real cold weather. I personally am big fan of propane fridges. I don't see any reason to use anything different. I've also found, as I get older, that there are an alarming number of people that really don't care what my opinion is! Everyone will use what they need that fits their use needs.
Vintage465 07/08/20 12:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Switching from 12 volt to 6 volt batteries

Couple things to add, That 12v fridge is bad news for boondocking. They are very inefficient. Normally only find those in popup style rigs. But, I guess you're stuck with it. Get more battery. I like the Vmax line of 6vdc. And with those AGM, you do not need to put them in a battery box. They are safe in any orientation. That might allow you to get even more than 2 of them, but you do need pairs. Unless you look at the Vmax 12vdc AGM. I don't have the 12v, but I would trust the name. The cheap club store batteries will need to be in a box, and you'll likely end up replacing them sooner. Depending on how you maintain them. Might or might not be worth the savings to you. One of the main reasons I chose a Danfos compressor style 12V fridge /freezer was because the they are a favourite of the ultimate boondockers which are yachters. They can't use propane fridges because propane is heavier than air and could sink to the lower decks if there was a leak and could cause an explosion. Our camping style is 98% dry/boondock camping. For 5 years, we camped with a 7.5cuft NovaKool fridge/freezer which when cycling used 4.4A. They are more efficient than absorption fridges using 1/3 less energy. They cool much quicker, for the same outer dimensions, have 1/3 more volume, keep more consistant temperatures in hot ambient temperatures and are not a fire hazard. We almost never needed our 2000W genny as we had 4 6V AGM batteries and lots of solar. People who use the term"12V fridges are bad news for boondocking" have never had this kind of fridge. They are becoming much more popular for so many reasons as long as you figure in more electrical capacity(batteries, solar) if you don't want to run your genny. I have a 6 cuft absorption fridge in my TT which came with the new unit. If it gives up the ghost down the line, a 9 cuft NovaKool will fit exactly in the same opening and as I already have plenty of solar and 4 6V GC-2 batteries and more room for extra solar, this is the route I will go. Dave That does sound like an efficient 12v fridge. My concern as a boon docker is I hate.........did I say hate?.... Generators. I'll do most anything not to use a generator. And I like camping year round. That include weather that gets down in the teens. I'd need enough battery to run my furnace to heat the the belly of the coach to keep the tanks warm enough. I can keep up with my furnace pretty easily with my solar, but I think if you tagged another fairly high draw unit on the 4-6v's it'd get critical. Bottom line is you really have to prioritize your usage choice. I want a furnace, a C-pap, no genny and winter. Prolly nixes the 12v fridge...for my boon docking needs.
Vintage465 07/07/20 08:25pm Travel Trailers
RE: Firman W02981- Any feedback?

Howdy all - Some friends of mine here in denver are borrowing their parents 5er. As with all novices, they are just starting out - and looking at a generator, and trying to do it on the cheap. They were looking at an open frame generator - and I've been a good RV friend, and told them that if they got one, I wouldn't be next to them! They started to look at Honda and Yamaha, and they are out of their price range. I know that many of us have Champions - but again, that seems to be out of their price range. They are now looking at the Firman W02981 from Costco. Does anybody have any history with this brand and in particular this model? At least buying from Costco - if it goes south, they can return it - but in a perfect world, it's a decent brand. Any thoughts or history would be greatly appreciated! thanks Josh I have a 3300/3000 unit inverter. Looks the same as this one. Can't think there is much difference. Starts every time real easy. I make sure it gets started once every couple months to make sure the battery stay up. Everytime I use it, it works fine. Have had it for four years.
Vintage465 07/04/20 09:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Switching from 12 volt to 6 volt batteries

You're gonna get a lot of opinions on this one. I like 6v cause you have a better chance of getting a true deep cycle battery with a 6v. It seems to me you can get 235 amp hours from 140 pounds of battery. With 12v you can get 200 amp hours but I think it'll be a few pounds heavier. There are true 12v deep cycle batteries are out there but they're not as easy to find. I'd never buy a 12v "deep cycle" from a local vendor unless they only sell batteries. Trojan are great. I think Deka's are great. Deka's are marketed under the Duracell name also. Duracell batteries are marketed thru various vendors, Batteries Plus Bulbs is the one I got mine from. Thinking I'm two years into them and still perfect. You'll need some kind of recharging ability in your coach if you plan to continue boon docking. I recommend as stout solar set up. I have yet to need to fire up my generator and I use what ever I want, whenever I want. I run 4-6v batteries.
Vintage465 07/04/20 08:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: Basic Questions on Solar Install

Well there are a lot more considerations and opinions on solar than I imagined. What I ultimately decided was to go with 4 175W panels. There will be 2 at the very back on each side of the vent. Then one in front of the vent situated perpendicular to the trailer. And then one more between the A/C and the vent in the middle of the trailer. These will be installed in parallel and running 8awg wire from the panels to the combiner box that is at the front. From the combiner box I'm going to go through the roof and straight down to the charge controller with 4awg. We use the trailer quite a bit in the winter so hopefully this will be enough to let us dry camp without the generator for 4 or 5 days. Right now we can go about 2 days in the winter without the generator. I'm 3-150w panels to the combiner with #10 then I ran #4 from the combiner to the controller in the pass thru then #2 from the controller to the 4-6v GC batteries. I camp for a week at a time in the dead of winter(18-24 degrees)run the furnace and a cpap. With good sun, some light clouds I'm topped up at 11:00 AM usually. We keep the trailer around 55-60 at night. You should be good
Vintage465 06/26/20 08:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Basic Questions on Solar Install

#8 is overkill for a series install. So If I go to an MPPT controller with mine and go series my #4 from the combiner to the controller will be serious overkill!:B
Vintage465 06/26/20 06:07pm Tech Issues
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