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 > Your search for posts made by 'atsrmf' found 12 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: What Chassis do I have

My motorhome is a 1987 with a 1986 driveline. I wish it had fuel injection, but the Holley 4-bbl works fine. The frame sure looks heavy duty, as it should since the vehicle weighs 11,100 pounds. The 460 cranks 3,000 RPM at a little over 60.
atsrmf 01/18/23 01:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What Chassis do I have

Getting back to the original topic, I was curious as to the manufacturer for the frame of my Gulfstream Class A. It turned out to be a John Deere chassis. I had no idea that John Deere made a chassis, but the do for trucks and RVs.
atsrmf 01/18/23 06:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Foggy windows help please

Use a mixture of 30% vinegar, 30% Dawn dishwashing soap, and 40% water in a spray bottle. Get a roll of paper towns and start spraying. Allow to soak for a couple minutes, scrub with a rough sponge, and wipe off with the towels. Repeat as required. It could take 5-10 times. I had the foggiest windows ever, all it took was some elbow grease with the correct cleaner. Why spend huge money to replace windows? Glass itself does not fog.
atsrmf 01/10/23 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 F53 dash air conditioner receiver/drier

Your motorhome is a '95 but the A/C might be from 1994. One year can make a big difference with parts, as I found out with my '87 motorhome.
atsrmf 12/16/22 02:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ALWAYS something!

If you plan to buy a motorhome of any class you should be a mechanic, plumber, electrician, and overall handyman. Don't buy if you don't have a complete set of tools and know how to use them, as you will spend a fortune hiring someone else every time there's a problem. Don't be cheap on maintenance, either, and keep records of oil changes, etc. Check tires pressures every time you go anywhere, this is huge for safety! My Dad bought a new Winnebago in 1976 and eventually knew the mechanic at the dealership on a first name basis. He could afford it, but I dread the thought of spending that much money. I am in the process of replacing the carpet in my Class A. So far it turned out quite well, I bought a pair of carpet shears before starting. Patience and precision is the key with carpet. Change razor blades after every second cut for best results.
atsrmf 11/19/22 07:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: ALWAYS something!

I bought an 80s motorhome for under $2000 with 15,000 miles. I restored it bumper to bumper, replacing a LOT of old original mechanical and electrical components. Kept the original interior but replaced the cushions. The driveline is bullet-proof with no computers or modifications except for headers. Now I have a completely dependable Class A for $25K, ready to go anywhere. It looks good, too. Stay away from the newer RVs that are impossible to troubleshoot and cost a fortune to repair.
atsrmf 11/01/22 09:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Renting out your RV

Thank you for the input all. Truth be told, I'm thinking of selling our MH and would just about break even. This rental thing has me thinking though. Maybe make a bit of money with it. Don't do it! Quit while you are even, invest in the Vanguard 500 or a good mutual fund to make a little money.
atsrmf 05/05/22 08:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Renting out your RV

The only way I would rent my motorhome is with a $25K deposit. That way they bought it if they damage it.
atsrmf 05/05/22 06:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1988 Gulfstream Sun Stream restoration

I bought a 1987 Gulfstream in 2017. It was a solid Southwest unit with only 15,000 miles. I brought it up to like-new condition and it's quite dependable. With gas at about $5.50 and 7-8 MPG I currently have it parked under cover. Nothing is cheap when working on a Class A, and if you plan on paying someone else to do the work you will eventually spend a fortune. I did all my work myself.
atsrmf 04/21/22 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerant charge amount, engine air

Atsrmf, I don't know where Indio is, but if it is not in California, look up a refrigerant called HC-12a. It is a hydrocarbon based that is completely compatible with all things R-12. It is almost three times better then R-134a at heat pumping and is completely non-ozone depleting. But, (like HC-134a) it is flammable. There is an advantage there in that if R-134a burns, the by-product is extremely toxic. HC-12a is a combination of pure (not cooking grade) propane and iso-butane (iso in this case means the molecule is a different arrangement) I have used this to great success. If you are afraid to have several pounds of flammable material there, then think about the amount you already have in the LP tank and fuel tanks. Matt I have heard of this product and seen it in parts stores, but have never talked with anyone who has used it. For a big solar oven such as a Class A motorhome, this might be the stuff to use. The fire hazard is the ONLY setback.
atsrmf 03/26/22 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerant charge amount, engine air

I appreciate all of the replies so far. I should have converted the system to 134a from the beginning, but didn't. I also failed to put in a drier with a sight glass, but have found in-line versions that can be added. I bought an R-12 recycler 2years ago and have about 15 pounds of R-12 in a canister. I plan to evacuate the system and install the sight glass and replace an o-ring. No Freon will be lost into the air this way. When I do repair work on automotive A/C systems I like to know the recommended factory specification for the amount needed, and re-charge that way using a refrigerant scale. I wondered if anyone knew the amount with this particular motorhome. Currently the A/C doesn't put out very cold air, so I want to start over. The condenser is new, along with the compressor and drier. I also added an electric fan that has a switch on the dash.
atsrmf 03/26/22 08:34am Class A Motorhomes
Refrigerant charge amount, engine air

I have a 1987 Gulfstream Class A with a 1986 Ford 460 driveline. I want to connect a recycler and evacuate the system, vacuum, and then recharge with R-12. My question is, how do I find out the recharge weight in pounds? There is no sticker on the engine, and I know better than to call the factory for an answer. If I can't find out, I can always charge until the pressures are within specs for the ambient temperature, which would probably be close enough. The chassis is John Deere and I think the driveline is considered an F-350.
atsrmf 03/25/22 03:25pm Class A Motorhomes
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