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 > Your search for posts made by 'bb_94401' found 6 matches.

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RE: Essential tools to carry; pole saw.

2x we carry a gas powered chain saw (with spark arrestor) and a pruning saw. ... All it takes is an overnight thunderstorm to bring down the deadfall across the only road out. ... I knew a guy that went back on an older logging road and a tree fell over the road after he went through. He didn't have an axe or a saw and he had to walk out for help... ... Storms knock some of the trees over across the roadway. The Federal agency responsible is not about to send out a crew to prune trees or remove fallen ones. .... Pine bark beetles have killed off lotsa trees and deadfall has become more of a problem. I’ve had to trim branches from leaning dead trees to avoid damage to roof or sides. I’ve also had to chain saw deadfall trees off of a forest service road ...) We go on extended trips so we can explore further into various FS and BLM lands. We've often cut trees that fall across the road both inbound and outbound. We also remove rock fall as well. In addition to beetle kill, there are a significant amount of fire killed trees still standing from previous years. It doesn't take much of a breeze to bring them down across the road, blocking your way out. Add a big storm with rain resulting in water saturated soil and lots of wind and you may not get out for some time. Even if you are relying on an agency to clear the road, we ran into a 1 mile section on a FS road that had over 40 8" diameter trees down on our only route out. In this case the FS had cleared the road of trees just 2 days after the storm. Unfortunately they only cut out an opening as wide as their truck. There wasn't enough width for my dually to fit through with the TC on .... Idaho State law "requires vehicles to carry a bucket with minimum 1 gallon capacity, 24" handle shovel with a 6" blade, and a 4-BC fire extinguisher" when recreating on Idaho state endowment trust land. Forest service suggests an axe as well. Better to be prepared. A chain saw, an axe or a mountain bike beat walking out.
bb_94401 12/27/19 05:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Dual pane windows....

If you are going to be winter camping when the temperature is less than 20F and if you don't like living in a dark cave, double pane windows keep in more heat and allow natural light to come inside. Our 2001 TC has double pane windows, as well as large double pane skylights and double pane vent covers. No seal failures yet in any of them. When the temperatures are lower still, reflectix layers covering the windows to keep more heat in. The reflectix on the table window, skylights and vents are removed when we aren't sleeping. For temperatures dropping below 0F at night, we made the table window triple pane ala Photomike's post. Can sit comfortably next to the window and watch the night sky. Cuts down on wind blowing through the window track drains and crevices when there is a blizzard outside (although they can be taped shut from the outside). Reflectix added when we go to bed. While there are lots of holes in a TC, most people will find and plug/seal them over time. Thermal pane windows are part of that consideration, or put another way, will the batteries last the night, how many days before the propane runs out and is it warm enough inside the TC to be comfortable and run full utilities for the length of stay you are planning. Speaking of holes, when manufacturers fit windows into a camper, they are not a close tolerance fit around the edges. While double panes won't have condensation on the windows, the aluminum window frame will still have condensation / ice, despite having a "thermal break in the window frame. Fix by removing the inside trim and sealing up the gaps between the sides of the window and frame opening with minimally expanding foam. Having a vapor barrier around the windows reduces the condensation that results in the window rotting out mentioned above. You can use the clear heat shrink window film on the inside to make disposable storm windows for windows you want to see out of. For windows you don't look out a removable tape or Dap Peel 'N Stick caulking can seal the window as well. Have you looked behind the trim on your vents recently? Check out the various winter mods threads for the usual suspects (AC, cord box, propane box, range vent and others). Seriously, just get the double pane windows if you are camping 4 seasons.
bb_94401 12/11/19 12:12am Truck Campers
RE: Storing generators when traveling?

We've stored our generators inside the camper under the table, held in place with heavy shock cords. Sheet of polypropylene packing foam to prevent rubbing wear. No smell after the fix below. https://i.imgur.com/LuS1WT2l.jpg Advantage of being inside is that they start better when we are boondocking during winter. Downside to moving them in / out of the high entrance of our TC (due to being on a 4x4 and having a basement), is that the generator gets tipped sometimes resulting in a gasoline smell. It wasn't coming from the cap due to pressure change going from sea level to 8,000, nor large temperature range swings during the day. Rather gas was dripping out of the carburetor bowl through the bowl vent. https://i.imgur.com/3SFKvL1l.jpg Solution was to plug the vent line with a golf tee when moving the generator into the TC. You could see the liquid gasoline above the tee, after moving it inside. Later I got a short piece of fuel tubing for the tee, I keep it on the oil drain slope to the left, when it isn't being used as a plug during normal operation. https://i.imgur.com/bsM47Djl.jpg If you happen to forget to remove the vent plug, the generator will stop running after a while and you are wondering why it stopped.:S
bb_94401 09/03/19 12:01am Truck Campers
RE: Interesting delam issue - revised 6-24, more pics

Best guess for delamination is poor adhesion, due to contaminated surface, or bad glue procedure /conditions. Add flex and off it came. A section of one of the carbon fiber hulls delaminated on my trimaran. I talked to a highly skilled fiberglass, independent repair person (boat wright / ship wright) who solved my problem. Ask around your area if they have time to do some creative work. Maybe they could seal it similar to vacuum bagging and see whether it would hold a vacuum. They are very creative. Might need to remove some trim and seal the underlying edges to get the vacuum needed. If so then, pull in low vicosity, slow cure epoxy from one end and out the other. Use mold release (aka wax) to prevent epoxy from sticking on outside visible surfaces. Or creative use of sealing tape.
bb_94401 06/21/19 11:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Help! One of my jacks won't retract or extend!

The Camo eze-lifts have minimum height of 19" to 47" and fine adjustment to 61". 5000 LBS support, but I don't know how much you could actually lift without galling or stripping the threads. Good temporary support to remove and repair the jack. Maybe not enough to lift it to load into the truck and fix the jack later. So you may have to do the two diagonal leg slightly higher trick to be able to lift it with the eze-lift (I'd put anti sieze on the adjuster thread). If you really want to lift it high enough to fit into your truck I'd call Rieco Titan and have them drop ship a single Tripod Camper Jack . It has a minimum height of 38" and max of 60" and can lift 2,000 lbs. Only issue is the height you'd need for your 4x4 DRW truck, may need a block or two. One other consideration is that with the dually, you'd need to make sure that the tripod legs were capable of being oriented so you could avoid hitting them with the tires when loading. https://i.imgur.com/vF2IMwbl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
bb_94401 06/03/19 04:46pm Truck Campers
RE: How to track down water leak in NL camper

If the problem returns and you go back to leak testing, pressure (as measured whether the pump cycles) isn't always a good indicator. Before I had replumbed my outside shower and was only blowing out the lines, enough water was left in the outside shower valves that it froze and cracked the plastic, which then leaked inside under my sink. If you decide to go the dye approach remember that amount of fluorescense is dependent on the pathlength in liquid, the type, the concentration of the chemical and the UV source. You can test if the fluorscent approach will be sensitive enough before putting it in your water system, by placing a drop or two of your proposed solution on a plate and using your UV light source. Instead of adding it to your water tank, replace the inlet tubing on your pump so it will fit into a gallon jug or pail. Make up the fluorescent solution. Bypass the water heater (avoids having to rinse it out and you can test it later if you don't identify the leak origin the first time). Pump it into your system. Common food grade items that are fluorescent are: Quinine water, aka Tonic Water; blue emission; 25 to 65 ppm (parts per million w /v grocery store 2L bottles Riboflavin, aka vitamin B2; green emission); solubility in water 80 - 100 milligrames per liter; grind number of pills depending on dose per pill. If the pills have lots of inert filler, filter before use. We used pure riblflavin at work. Alternately, you could just make up a 50 ppm solution of hydrogen peroxide and sanitize your water system. They make test strips (0-50 ppm and 0-100 ppm) that are easy to use by touching these to a drop of water to verify its presence or absence and whether it was from your water system or rain. After rinsing out your water system you can use the low range test strips 0-5 ppm to show the hydrogen peroxide level is reduced to a safe level. We used this at work on a USP water system. Same approach with 5 ppm bleach and test strips could be used. We usually run with bleach at 1 ppm in our water all the time, which the test strips can detect. 3% hydrogen peroxide = 30,000 ppm Bleach is typically 5% - 6%, actual concentration can be found on the label under active ingredient.
bb_94401 06/01/19 10:55am Truck Campers
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