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 > Your search for posts made by 'bjbear' found 21 matches.

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RE: Heading Home (North)

Just got back yesterday. Took 5 days to travel from Gold Canyon, AZ to Cold Lake, Alberta. Campgrounds in Montana where filled up by the end of the day. Luckily, I had made reservations or I would not have got in (Dillon, Montana). Also had reservations in Shelby, but decided to cross the border and stayed at Milk River, AB. By end of day, the campground was full. No problem crossing the border at Sweetgrass/Coutts. About a 15 minute wait and the bonus was that they did not ask me how much I had in purchases so did not have to pay GST on the amount over my allowance. Saved me a bunch of money as I had overspent by a lot. No problem getting fuel at Flying J/Pilot or Love's. No long lines. Used hand sanitizer and then washed hands after handling pump. Don't really think the virus could survive in a diesel environment. Looking at the infection rate curve, I would advise everyone to head home ASAP and shelter in place. The US rate is on track with that of Italy a week ago so it is getting serious. Stay safe and well everyone................
bjbear 03/24/20 10:41am Snowbirds
RE: Air brakes on Towed

My buddy has the Brake Buddy. Install is easy, just plug it into the power outlet, hookup and he monitor/control box in the MH, watch that it connects and your all done. It's a simple system and you can easily move it between vehicles, unlike you system that is only for the 1 car. I'm planning on getting a newer vehicle and will then have 2 available toads. ThenBrake Buddy will be perfect for that. As I said good if you have a "Fleet" (2 is a fleet though in the example I think I used 20) . But every time you put it in the driver's seat that is an install and if you mess up it can total the car's brakes (happened to me on a different system the dealer messed up the install on.. When will I learn to do it or at least check it myself). and over time that is a lot of work. plus I've spoken to folks who confirmed they said "Oh forget it" for a short trip.. Murphy's law says that's when someone will run out in front of you and SPLAT. With the M&G or the US-Gear system I had or any of the other fully installed leave 'em in place all the time you just plug it in (if that) 1-2 seconds and it's live.. Some of them you don't even do that. Mark me down as another Brake Buddy fan. Have been using it for close to 10 years. Very easy and straight forward to install. You would have to be totally incompetant to mess it up. Never felt like leaving it off, even for short drives. Have changed towed vehicle 3 times and the switch over was easy (had to run light setup anyway so adding a 12V charge line and breakaway was not difficult).
bjbear 01/11/20 07:45am Dinghy Towing
RE: Can I use a WDH on a DP

.............. I don't think this is a true statement. WD hitches do not change the tongue weight. They just redistribute that tongue weight among the available axles. If your tongue weight is 1400 pounds with a regular hitch it will still be 1400 pounds with a WD hitch. It will just be carried by different axles but there will still be 1400 pounds on the ball. The only solution to the OP's problem is to move some weight further back in the trailer or move the trailer axle further forward. I could be wrong but I don't think so. If weight is moved to the axles, it must come off the hitch. In other words, the total weight of the vehicle and trailer do not change so if you move some of the weight to an axle, it must be reduced from the hitch. One of the things that a WDH does is reduce the torque on the receiver. That is why receivers are rated for higher loads when you use a WDH. The following is a simple illustration. http://www.visualsc.com/WD_hitch_illustration.png http://www.visualsc.com/WD_hitch_illustration.png A difference when you have air bags, is that the rear end of the MH is maintained at the same height. That, however does not mean that the weight did not transfer. It just means that as the weight is added to the drive axle, air is added to the rear air bags to compensate.
bjbear 12/17/19 09:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Motorcoach Owner...

RV I was able to upload this photo from my phone. I will have more later if you wish. Congratulations and safe travels. You are making many of us envious :)
bjbear 10/23/19 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil stick problem - need help

On long Dipsticks, you can sometimes take a pair of pliers and put a small twist at the end in the first inch and that will slip past where the outer tube goes into the engine block. Doug Have the same problem. I have to turn the dipstick as I push it in to get it to go all the way. I'll try putting a twist on the end. How much of a twist do you need?
bjbear 10/12/19 10:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator Cranking Amps

Another testing idea: Remove the gen + wire and using a battery load tester and clampon ammeter measure the draw on the wire and also the voltage and compare that to the wire calculator. As long as I don't exceed the fuse rating it should provide a good comparison. Thoughts? This will work. However, you will have to measure the voltage at both the end of the wire and the battery terminal at the same time as the battery voltage will drop as you add load and you need the differential voltage to be meaningful.
bjbear 09/14/19 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator Cranking Amps

bjbear, Thanks as that is the type of information that I appreciate. I will measure some more cranking voltages and I want to know gauge wires I have from the gen to the fuse. And it must be the 300A fuse as the next biggest is 200A. From the gen the + wire is not 4/O, maybe 2 but need to check. aA Not sure of my wire size. I used whatever was there originally when it was built by Monaco.
bjbear 09/12/19 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator Cranking Amps

So here is the information CA Traveler was looking for. I used a Snap-on analyzer specifically designed to measure amperage while a starter is operating. As shown in the picture below, my generator (Onan 10 KW QuietDeisel) has a dedicated battery that is only used to start the generator. The 12V+ lead is 4/0 wire 72" long. The ground wire is 48" connected to the frame.At the start of the test, the battery was fully charged @ 12.7 Volts.Outside temperature was 15 C.During the prestart step the generator drew 6.0 Amps, with very little voltage drop off.When the starter cranked, the amps peaked at 207 Amps, then settled at 197 Amps until the generator fired.The battery supply voltage (at the terminals) dropped from 12.6 Volts to 10.8 Volts.Immediately after starting, the battery recovered to 12.3 Volts. As you may have guessed, I am a proponent of using a dedicated battery for the generator. As per a previous post, I found that even when I cleaned all my terminals from the house batteries to the generator, the generator just did not start reliably. After installing the dedicated battery, I have never had a problem. IMO... Due to the high current draw, 30 - 40 feet of 4/0 cable just has too much voltage loss.The house batteries are deep cycle batteries. Therefore, they are not designed to supply the 200 Amps necessary without pulling down the battery voltage significantly.When you really need to start the generator (i.e. In the morning when you house batteries are at 50% - 12.0V --or-- during cold weather) that is also the time when you have the lowest voltage available and cannot handle further voltage drop as the starter cranks. http://www.visualsc.com/images/generator_1.png
bjbear 09/12/19 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator Cranking Amps

What is the expected cranking amp draw for a Onan 10K generator? Mine is cranking slow due to excessive voltage drop on the + wire and I want to estimate what the voltage drop should be for the wire size and length. The - side uses frame ground is is OK. Looked through my generator info and could not find the actual amp draw for the starter. When I bought my coach, the generator cranked slowly and often would not start at all. Even with the "boost" switch pushed to combine house and chassis batteries, it was a reluctant starter. I went through the entire 12V supply and cleaned all connections at the battery plus a post on the front wall. It helped a bit, but was not a satisfactory solution. If I remember correctly, the 12V supply fell to 11.5 Volts when cranking. It is a very poor design to use house or chassis batteries located in the rear to start the generator at the front. Not only because of the long distance with resulting voltage drop, but because, often when you need the generator is when you have run your batteries down to 50% or lower. Just no enough power to start the generator reliably. What I ended up doing was to install a dedicated battery at the generator and using a diode, charge it from the house system. http://www.visualsc.com/images/generator_1.png My generator now starts quickly. Even if my house batteries are down, I don't need to worry that my generator will not start.
bjbear 09/10/19 02:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: building new campground

The whole 8 miles thing: - If it's a destination park, sure no big deal. - If it's a quick overnight, yeah, it's costs me 16 miles round trip, so yeah, I might push on 25 miles to the next park that is near the highway. Worst case, it cuts 25 miles off the next day's travel. Not being realistic is a big part of why most businesses fail in the first few years. I looked at LLion, NY on Google Earth. I see a very pleasant place with not only Highway 90, but several less busy highways that might appeal to many. Lots of little towns to explore and I am sure some historic sites, parks, forests, etc. I am thinking that instead of looking at the extremes (destination vs. overnight), maybe look at a "Mini-Destination" aimed at travelers who aren't in a big hurry and would enjoy a 1 - 3 day stop. If they featured the brewery and maybe had other products from local farms, artists, etc. Concentrate on basic amenities which are kept clean and in good condition. Don't need anything really fancy in this case. I can see it would appeal to many. Hard to tell if it would be enough to sustain the business, but worth a try. As others have said, they need to build a comprehensive business plan which includes accurate costs, clear definition of regulatory/tax requirements and their best guess at how the market will respond. I say go forward and wish them best of luck.
bjbear 09/10/19 10:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy

^^^^ I average 50,000 miles per year, currently have 158,000 miles in 3 years. Wow!! That is a lot of driving (137 miles - 2 1/2 hours driving per day). I could not do that. I don't think too many RVers put on that many miles.
bjbear 09/10/19 09:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel economy

I drive 5000 miles a year. That is close to 800 gallons of fuel. I use Pilot and Flying-J using a Good Sam Discount Card. So if I could find deisel at $.25 less, that is only a saving of $160.00 for the year (with the $.05 Good Sam discount. A very small price to pay for the convenience, easy access, high volume pumps, not having to go in to prepay before I can pump fuel, not having to repeatedly reset the pump when it shuts off at $75.00, etc. Plus they always have a well stocked store to pick up essentials if needed.
bjbear 09/10/19 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: shaw satellite

Some of the high definition channels are available down in Apache Junction, AZ. Also, some of the ones that where converted, retained their place on F1/F2 satellites. I suspect that some of the other conversions will also be on F1/F2 and we will be able to see them. Time will tell.
bjbear 08/22/19 02:14pm Snowbirds
RE: shaw satellite

now that shaw has completed satellite upgrades. is anyone in southern states using shaw satellite that can fill us in on what channels they are still getting? Hopefully, someone can fill us in. Actually, the Shaw conversion is still ongoing with a lot more stations being converted or dropped in September.
bjbear 08/21/19 06:55pm Snowbirds
RE: Short Class A with no toad?

Before my current Class A, we had a truck camper. Even with it, we often took a toed. Just found it more enjoyable not to have to break Camp every time we wanted to travel around an area. http://www.visualsc.com/TC_2.jpg
bjbear 08/01/19 07:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pics: Slide mechansim, Winnie/ Power gear / Kwickee

greetings. I am going thru same slideout repair, kwikee FLS slideout rail. On the galley the rear arm is failing as a result of the plastic 1" acme nut. You mentioned that you bought the part for about $6. Where at? Need parts asap. thx in advance Don Try https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-1612554-Inch-Plastic/dp/B00RJBTX7Y
bjbear 07/24/19 12:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: thoughts on our 2019 Rubicon

How much is a new Rubicon running nowadays? With Wranglers in such demand I guess the dealers don’t have to negotiate much. Ours as equipped $41.4k Looking at one now. It is $62.5 K. Of course that is Canadian Loonies so $46K in US$
bjbear 07/17/19 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Door stop--or whatever its called

Here is a write-up on replacing the door locking swing arm with a gas strut. Lots of people have done this upgrade with success. There is also info on buying a replacement arm if you want to stay stock. http://www.visualsc.com/Monaco_door_gas_strut_upgrade.pdf
bjbear 07/08/19 06:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Refrigerator Help?!

Rookie refrigerator question........We are BRAND NEW to RVing. So any help is greatly appreciated! I am assuming that you did not test your refrigerator on propane before leaving on your trip. The refrigerator will often not run on propane initially, especially if the propane has been shut off. I have had a number of RVs over the years that required a couple of tries before it would work on propane. Here is the procedure I usually use when starting the fridge: 1) Start propane system. Ensure RV is plugged into shore power (AC) and Batteries are chargedTurn on propanelight one burner on your stove briefly to test the propane system and ensure it is working correctly. 2) Start refrigerator. Turn on refrigerator.Set {MODE} to gas/propane.Listen carefully. You should hear the igniter click a number of times followed by the sound of the burner.If the burner does not ignite, you will get a failure indication (Ususally a red "F").If it did not light, turn off the refrigerator and repeat previous steps.The refrigerator should start (i.e. burner running) after no more than 3 attempts.Let run on propane for 5-10 minutes, then switch {MODE} to 110VAC or AUTO. Check that the propane shuts off and the fridge continues to cool on 110VAllow at least 12 hours for the fridge to get down to normal temperatures. 3) If refrigerator will not run on propane after 3 attempts. Remove lower access door on outside of fridge.Check that all wiring connections are tight.Check that propane lines are tight. Some systems may have a small isolation valve that must be on.Locate the burner and flue then have someone attempt to start the fridge while you observe from the outside.You should see a spark at the burner, then hear the propane start to flow and then ignite.If the propane starts, but the flame is weak or goes out immediately, it could be because the flue is plugged. Spiders love to build webs in the flue. These can be cleared by using a compressor to blow air up the flue.If the propane still fails to work, then it is time for the manual and troubleshooting guide. Hope this helps. Remember, you need to have the propane turned on while you drive. I always leave the fridge on AUTO so that it switches to propane as soon as the coach is unplugged from shore power.
bjbear 06/29/19 08:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: good sams roadside assistancs app

After reading this, I checked my Good Sam app and it did not know who I was. Called them and found out that a couple of days after I renewed in early May, they recieved a call cancelling my membership! Needless to say, I did not do that. The upside is because I was rejoining instead of renewing, I got $35.00 discount. I signed up for 2 years at the cheap rate.
bjbear 06/27/19 12:32pm Good Sam Roadside Assistance
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