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 > Your search for posts made by 'bobndot' found 258 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

Tnx for confirming that DrewE.
bobndot 03/30/20 07:24am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

I was thinking about long term storage in the future without shore power, I was going to try a Trik L Start but thought it might eventually run down both house AND chassis batteries while parked, not plugged in to shore power, while parked long term. It seems to me that the chassis battery will eventually deplete the house bank unless you also have solar in place. My chassis battery does run down over a week or so. As an experiment, I already have an automatic Battery Tender Solar panel in a 10 watt size to use as a maintainer, so I tried that to maintain the chassis battery. I leave it on my dash. Seems to be working so far. I just tried this solar maintainer as an experiment to see if it would work, if I ever do store this rv. I normally just leave my rv plugged into shore power and not worry about batteries period.
bobndot 03/30/20 04:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

Charging at -40 requires higher voltage and charging at 115 f requires charging be discontinued. Yes, that makes sense. My OEM from engine to house batteries was #8. I doubled the path with a second #8. I noticed a difference when I increased my #12 charge line to a #8. If I remember correctly, it took less time to charge up the house. I never even thought of running two 8's. :C
bobndot 03/29/20 10:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

The algorithm term was new to me. I found a Flexcharge link specific to it. IMO, it appears to do a good job explaining what exactly it means. If its incorrect, please advise. Thank you. explanation of algorithms
bobndot 03/29/20 10:21am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

oldwizard1,pianotuna, thank you for your helpful explanation. :C
bobndot 03/29/20 06:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

If you want to charge your house batteries while driving, you need a DC-DC battery charger. This technology is all new to me. I didn't realize that I could add a DC to DC charger to the BIM. I thought the BIM was doing that job. Am I understanding things correctly ? What I have in my Smart system is a BIM, which is what I replaced because my coach batteries were not charging at all. It was a Precision Circuits Battery Isolation Manager 200amps. I do have an emergency start switch on the drivers seat, when I hit that switch, I hear the solenoid click on, raising my coach battery volts. As soon as I release that switch, the volts drop back down to whatever it was . This tells me the solenoid is working ok, or could it not be ? While I'm driving, the coach batteries will accept a charge from the alternator when voltage drops low enough or if I'm driving with the furnace on, creating a draw on the coach batts. By adding a DC to DC charger to the system I have will be a benefit because it will always put the coach batts in a charge mode to fully charge them. Using the BIM alone will only offer a part time charge and not fully charge the coach only to 80% . #1- Am I understanding how this BIM system works and how adding the DC/DC will help ? #2- Could I have NOT replaced the bad BIM and bypassed it to charge both battery banks to old way ? Or would I have damaged the system ?
bobndot 03/29/20 12:35am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2007 forester 26s

2007 till now, if its still around after 13 years and appears to be in good condition, how bad could it be ? As they age it depends on how they were taken care off. They are good enough to consider. I know someone who owned a fleet of rental units like that, from that era, they didn't have anything unusual that stands out. Normal wear and tear, they held up well enough. I assume your looking to buy it. If you been here since 2005, you probably know what to took for. Many times, certain older rvs get bad reviews because the mfg was not stepping up regarding warranty claims etc. But those things often get resolved as companies are sold and taken over. Therefore todays unit might be better regarding that.
bobndot 03/28/20 03:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

This is a 2002 RV. If I had read that in the first place I could saved myself the typing . :S :B Well then, if you ever buy a new rv, just remember what we said :) Drew got it right .
bobndot 03/28/20 03:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***

OK, as per the above post, i have a SMART charging system 2018. I was advised that I can bypass it. That's what my rv mechanic told me to do a few months ago when I had a problem with a faulty isolation battery charge manager. He told me to just bypass this garbage and do it the old way which worked just fine. Somebody convinced the rv mfg's to buy this gadget to charge our batteries. I wasn't sure if this was the right thing to do or not because the system involves the converter charging things when we are plugged in to shore power. I was told bypassing it would not interfere with that converter portion of the system. The part was a little over $100 to replace, not that expensive. I was torn what to do, in reality, it probably doesn't matter which way its done. my follow up: I ended up just replacing the OEM manager to see if it would work. It is working , alternating the charge voltage between my 2 bank coach batteries and my single chassis battery. However if my coach batteries show 12.5v at rest, they will NOT jump up to 13 or 14 volts when I start the rv. The chassis battery will charge off the alternator but not the coach set. Therefore , I'm not able to top off my batteries as I would by the old method. Those coach batteries will only click on via solenoid at a lower voltage of 12.3 or 12.4 volts. Once they reach 12.6v they cut off charging until they drop down again. I guess this manager is suppose to be a brain like a type of charge wizard to charge our batteries as they drop in voltage and not in a constant float charge rate, that is actually a safe mode as far as I know, the way it was done in the past, as you stated. It appears if they are designed to kick on at a preprogrammed voltage. I actually like the old way, it seems more simple without these sensitive digital electronic parts to breakdown. KISS is what I prefer and probably what I should have done, but I had to satisfy my curiosity.
bobndot 03/28/20 02:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Majestic 28 a running boards

Looking at various pics of class C rvs , I don't think it will matter which rv mfg you have. Aren't running boards Ford or Chev specific for the 2011 Ford or GM cutaway chassis ? CARID, REALTRUCK or SUMMIT RACING will carry what you need. Just do a google search, you'll see all the available companies .
bobndot 03/28/20 11:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Flat towing vehicle list

While choosing, make sure the car you desire can be matched to an available base plate for the tow bar that you want to buy or already have. I wanted a DEMCO tow bar setup but no base plate was made for my car. I had to buy a Blue Ox instead. Then, once you have decided on a vehicle, ask again on this forum , for a response from someone with experience towing that make and model. They might be able to give some specific additional info. EX: my Chev Sonic hatchback with 47 cu ft of cargo space plus an addition crossbar roof box setup offers a lot of extra storage that can be flat towed. GM says to pull a fuse every time you hook it up. Reason being, it will prevent the discharging of the Chev battery while the ignition is 'ON' while towing. A simple solution to not have to do that every time is to add a 12v charge wire from the RV to the car to charge the car battery. You don't really need to buy specific harnesses to run the car lights. Its less expensive to drill a hole in each tail light assembly to install an 1157 bulb for running, brake and directions. Just run those wires to the front of the car to incorporate into the tow harness going to the RV. If you decide you also need side marker lights etc, just turn them on via your dash switch and run with them on the parking light setting. Your charge wire will keep your battery charged as if you're driving your towed car.
bobndot 03/28/20 10:30am Dinghy Towing
RE: Fiberglass Repair Help

Uhh OP had this issue 3 years ago... I think many of us, such as myself, have done this too. Its easy to overlook the date on older threads. We have to look for 'thread stress cracks'. :)
bobndot 03/23/20 04:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Passenger Side Air Bags on 1998 Ford E-350 Chassis

Timmy and Lassie rode in the front of grandpa's pickup without seatbelts for 7 seasons. :E
bobndot 03/22/20 06:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Something about having 4 wheel drive

Geez those long track Ski-Doo's are getting bigger and bigger every year.
bobndot 03/18/20 09:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How how do I find my tongue capacity?

Weight of the mc you plan to carry ??? How does your MH ride, does the rear pound or is it a softer controlled spring rate ? 1. If this involves A 2008 unit from a MFG like HR that has been sold and taken over by another company ? How much liability do they now accept on a 12 year old rv regarding MC's being carried on it's frame and hitches. That's what you need to find out from professional people that are looking out for your interests, otherwise you might end up holding the bag in the event of an accident. 2. If you are comfortable moving forward , you need to have a professional welder with DOT experience do a frame and hitch inspection for you telling him/her your intentions. I would look into the way the carrier is built that you plan to buy. Many are a 2x2 single tube. The welders I know would rather use a double tube custom supported carrier in a 2.5 x 2.5" configuration. ** This all has to be matched to a 'stout MH frame that can support the weight' of a MC PLUS the CARRIER WEIGHT . As you already know, a lot of frame and hitch stress is involved with hauling objects. Try lifting 350 lbs. Now jump up and down holding it, and that's a lightweight bike. :) **The distance from the receiver to where the MC is actually sitting is a lot of stress on a single tube receiver regardless of what it's rated for. I understand about bringing toys and not wanting to tow. You need to do it in a safe manner and you really need to get this right for your own liability. ;) Trailers ROCK ! :B
bobndot 03/17/20 10:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Diesel fuel additive for long term storage

If I had a diesel I would do as Ducktape and ScottG say. We can't let the rv sit for long periods of time. We're in the 'Grit dog' crowd, we use our rv all year long for lunch or dinner outings. We cook our food at home, hop in the rv, drive somewhere like a park , don't even have to get out of the rig. No other human contact and not worried about catching anything while driving. I drive at 65 mph, COVID-19 only travels at 55 mph .
bobndot 03/17/20 02:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thanks..and a Slide Question

On a side note, a 6x10 trailer is a nightmare behind a truck camper when trying to back up. It's a PITA without the camper, I'm hoping a camera will help with that. Rick I can see how some people would have some difficulty backing a narrow trailer but if you practice doing it becomes easy, at least for me it did. I towed a lot of different trailers behind my TC's as said in the link below. I ended up liking my 5x12 v-nose the best and still use it today behind my 'C'. It is very light and carries our bikes, canoe, sometimes one snowmobile, sometimes it's an extra bathroom using a Curve porta potty, we also use it as the semi outdoor kitchen. All our equipment is portable using E-track hardware. We used it in many different configurations offsetting the limited space of our non slide Lance TC and now our non slide class 'C'. If you plan to use your TC in the winter, I found it to be a pain to climb onto the roof in order to clear the slide top from ice/snow in order to close it. The non slide tc used a lot less LP and was much easier to heat. I liked the non-slide stealth overnighting in Holiday Inn parking lots. ;) I found having the right floorplan in a non slide is very important making it feel larger or having the right combination of storage cabinets. Have you looked at the Northstar 12 ft non slide ? It offers a side entrance door and a lot of counter space with a dry bath. NS customer service is going to be hard to beat. The below older link has some general trailer info. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27365512/print/true.cfm
bobndot 03/15/20 09:48am Truck Campers
RE: 12v house battery replacement

FYI....for those considering T-105's . bulk charge rate is 14.82 when at paired 12v's , I assume the proper converter would be needed to achieve that. I have a PD-4000 and not sure. this was copied from the T-105 pdf CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS CHARGER VOLTAGE SETTINGS (AT 77°F/25°C) SYSTEM VOLTAGE 6V 12V 24V 36V 48V Bulk Charge 7.41 14.82 29.64 44.46 59.28 Float Charge 6.75 13.50 27.00 40.50 54.00 Equalize Charge 8.10 16.20 32.40 48.60 64.80
bobndot 03/13/20 10:15am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 12v house battery replacement

Sam's Club has a Group 31 AGM Marine/RV battery on right now for $160 !That is a very interesting consideration. I wonder what it's physical dimensions are. A quick search, I found this.......Group 31 batteries are approximately 13" x 6-13/16" x 9-7/16" That's a good battery, its actually made by DEKA. They are really hybrid batteries not true deep cycles and that's fine for most people. You might only be able to fit one under a class c step due to the width, that was the case with mine, which forced me to go with a pair grp 27's for more amps. I also lack the height for GC-2's. FYI....I guess im a little behind the times regarding Trojan , I only found out that Trojan is no longer made by a private company , its been taken over by C&D Technologies. "Nov 6, 2018 - C&D Technologies to acquire Trojan Battery Company. Trojan Battery Company's current majority owner, an affiliate of Charlesbank Capital Partners, has reached an agreement with C&D Technologies, a portfolio company of KPS Capital Partners, for C&D Technologies to acquire Trojan".
bobndot 03/13/20 08:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sagging headliner

This could also be caused from the foam backing deteriorating from wrong type of foam or adhesive being used. I agree. This was a common problem back then. There were a few fixes that you can view on the Winnie owners forum. Gluing using 3M or stapling marine carpet in place after removing the old stuff were common fixes. Being that its a tight area to work in I would try a professional auto upholstery shop .
bobndot 03/12/20 09:26am Class C Motorhomes
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