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 > Your search for posts made by 'bobndot' found 239 matches.

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RE: rv furnace

hooked to shore power.This is rear furance front furance works great right next to it Oh ok, I would look at the sail switch first. They stick as well as go bad. I would first try tapping it as you are trying to fire it up, that worked for me once. The other time it happened it was the board, I just swapped the board because I always carry a spare board. Things happen to me when im in the middle of nowhere. :) I know there are 'youtube' repair/testing videos that will show you how to test or change it.
bobndot 10/20/19 12:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: rv furnace

OK started up furance blower came on but no heat.DSI IS THE SAIL SWITCH OR BOARD GONE BAD how do i ck low battery ? plug in MH to shore power. Turn on the stove burner and then fire up the water heater. If the burner flame goes low when the WH fires up, you have a pressure regulator LP problem.
bobndot 10/20/19 10:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Trying to find this floorplan

mrdorkdar, " Dry weight is only 3800. I was thinking with a propane tank and batteries maybe 4200? That’s not bad right"? As people are saying, the dry weight is a really a meaningless number because there is no industry standard to where a manufacturer weighs an rv. You need to look at the gross weight rating and that's the number where most people roll at. Because its easy to over pack , the bottom line is have the TV control the TT not the other way around. You have to be extra careful using an suv. My TT's advertised dry wt was 4200# with a TW of 525#. When I bought it new I went to a scale without any personal gear. I sat on a scale at approx. 5500#, unknown TW at that time. I had 6 gals in the water heater and 5 gals in the water tank, plus twin 30# LP's and one grp 31 deep cycle on the tongue. Once I loaded it for a trip I sat at 6500# with 850# of TW. My TW went up to 950# when I added a tongue mounted bike rack and 2 bikes . I towed with a 2016 1500 max tow GM pickup and I felt it was a good match for my TT.
bobndot 10/19/19 05:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: toilet treatment for black water tank

Google 'Odorlos' holding tank treatment . Its avl from Amazon . Been using the liquid for years . Never had an odor, never had a failed sensor. I think it's an enzyme type of treatment and sensor cleaner. It doesn't seem to have the usual masking scent of other toilet tank treatments. After dumping my 40 gal black tank, I always add 3 or 4 gals of water plus an Oz. of Odorlos to the tank and allow that to agitate . Sometimes I tow an enclosed 12x5 cargo trailer with an electric flush "Curve' porta-potti that secures to the floor. The 'Curve' has its own water supply or windshield washer supply during winter use and its own holding tank. That system also has the same positive results. Odorlos works year round, all temps.
bobndot 10/15/19 07:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Move to Motorhome

LeBout, its going to depend on how you plan to use the rv. Longer term stays, you will need a larger rv with more storage space for all your stuff, larger water and holding tanks and comforts like a sofa with a tv that's mounted in a place where you can actually view it without acrobatic circus training. It would then pay to have a floorplan with an island bed opposed to a corner bed so its easier for you to move about. Short term overnight stays can be done in a smaller rv. If my intended use was simply back n forth as a transportation vehicle with an overnight stay or two, I would choose a class B, like a Winnie 'Travato 59k' which gets better fuel mileage than a C and has comfortable twin beds (with a possible king insert option) plus a good size bath/shower. Once you get to your destination, you will need to determine if you need to stay in the rv or stay in your parents house. Again, the size of rv will come into play. Do you have room to park it ? If you choose a larger multi-purpose rv , you might need to consider towing a car, only you can determine if you need to do that or not. Its an expense to set up a car to tow.
bobndot 10/13/19 06:55am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fresh water drain

LaTriker, good question as to why they do things like that. Mechanics at the dealerships complain about these dumb builds too. We are not alone. Just alter that cover to make it easier for yourself. You might be able to just leave it off. I use an 8" marine deck plate that I simply unscrew to access my bypass valves. Its installed on the plywood platform that supports the mattress. It also allows me peek inside to actually view my water level in my tank for a real reading of my water level. Happy trails, be well.
bobndot 10/13/19 06:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Repair costs and frequency frustration

You now owe me two cents. :B
bobndot 10/12/19 03:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fresh water drain

Viewing pics of that floorplan , just my opinion: I would think its a setup as you showed with a cover on it. If the valve was located under the bed, I'm assuming the tank is also located under the bed due to that floorplan and the location of the outside gravity fill port. Its a driver side full wall slide floorplan which would leave the passenger side to house the water tank which usually needs a solid floor for support opposed to a slide floor. It appears under the queen bed is the only place for the installation of a water tank in the 50 gallon size range.
bobndot 10/12/19 08:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hankook Dynapro Tires for 2019 Coachman Leprechaun

For some insane reason new class C do not come with a spare tire. I noticed that when I was shopping for MH's . I found the Sunseeker on an E450 had a spare under the rear in the area of the hitch. My class C has the Hankooks , at 12,000 miles, no problems / good wear. Just to try something else, when it comes time to swap them for new tires I was thinking of trying the new Goodyear Adventure Kevlar E rated tires. They are a more aggressive A/T tread but many people have said they are very quiet, ride smooth and wear well. I think they also carry the 'winter snowflake seal'.
bobndot 10/12/19 08:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Repair costs and frequency frustration

Might be time to rethink this rv life style. IMO, this used MH rv style is not working for you. I have been down the used MH road and found it not all that reliable a road to travel, especially if you do not know the previous owner and the units history. If you can live with a rv style change, you can hold on to your cash that you have using to repair things. When I had limited cash to spend on toys, I had the best mechanical luck buying a smaller trailer under 6,000# wet and leasing a new truck. The truck never broke down and the trailer has a lot less mechanical stuff to deal with than a MH. There are so many 'cash back' deals that will save you thousands on 1500 series trucks where you do not need any special aftermarket equipment for it to tow a smaller TT. A stock truck with a tow package will be fine. You'll be driving a new rig for about the same money as you're spending repairing an unreliable MH where you're chancing being stuck in far away places. You could lease a truck and put the down payment into the lease and use your cash for the TT. I can't see buying a used B with uncertain repairs in the future. You'll be in the same position you're in now. I see that being a revolving door with too much expense and down time.
bobndot 10/11/19 05:24am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fresh water drain

It is usually below or near the outside gravity fill port for the freshwater tank. Those fill ports are in close proximity to the holding tank which is also near the drain tube. Sometimes they put the valve inside an exterior compartment by accessing a small door or panel near the water pump. Locate your water pump and look for a valve. Sometimes the 2 low point drains also incorporate the freshwater drain, When you open the H/C low point drains, if the cold line seems like its taking a lot longer to drain, then you found it. Low point drains could be inside a removable panel under the fridge or under a cabinet. Some units have the low point drain exposed under the rv.
bobndot 10/10/19 01:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Toyo tires?

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24490127.cfm
bobndot 10/09/19 10:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1993 Ford E350 Tioga Class C

Any gas engine that won't start: Old or contaminated fuel that has gummed up the lines, fuel filter and carburetor. Once you determine which model generator you have, use 'youtube' to find out the how to. That might be the only manual you'll need. Once you get that genny running, keep running it regularly. Having a generator sit idle is the worse thing for it. They need regular exercise just like humans.
bobndot 10/07/19 02:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

Drew, yes I noticed that with one my cars as well. Also, in time I will upgrade my sway bars. The alignment shop suggested that as well. I have to make sure a new Roadmaster or Hellwig bar rear bar will fit with the track bar. As of now I assume one or other will fit but I will run it by before I order.
bobndot 10/04/19 04:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

I don't know too much about the specs about alignments, but I think it was the caster. They explained how the machine uses 'curves' that need to match up when they go plus caster. They told me they can't go too high without affecting camber. It was only after my alignment that I was educated by 'Harvard' and others here on RV.NET about plus 5 caster. At the time I was complaining about being pushed around by passing trucks. I think the shop was doing it over 3x because they were trying to get it as perfect as possible without me having to do a lot of upgrades. Which I did anyway. koni in the rear Bils in the front Rear track bar All this helped quiet a bit, I only have a slight problem now when Im driving directly behind an 18 wheeler and he overtakes me. Things get better and normal as the truck pulsl away from me allowing more space between us.
bobndot 10/04/19 01:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

Not to say that you might have worn parts as said but my new E450 had to go on the alignment rack 3x till they felt it was right. They did a road-test between each adjustment.
bobndot 10/04/19 12:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Water damage in walls

For the past five years, the RV has just been driven around the campground. I don’t think the walls will fall apart while driving Are there any soft spots in the floor ? Depending how level the rv was parked will determine how the water ran. Leaks don't always flow straight down. They can travel in any direction to find the lowest point. I would be concerned about the tires. Anytime the salvage tow operators moved older rvs , the tires were the main problem. Time and UV is the enemy causing sidewall cracks. Tires can also suffer internal damage over time where you can't see it. Many rv people change sneakers after 5 yrs or so, just to be safe. If your tires blow up at highway speed it won't matter much how soggy the sidewalls are. I would also check the front end for worn parts. Check the frame as well for rust.
bobndot 09/28/19 02:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Water damage in walls

Due to various degrees of rot I really don't see how anyone would really know the answer regarding highway safety without inspecting the unit.
bobndot 09/28/19 10:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Anyone here upgraded their headlights?

Whatever you decide to do, after you make the change , have another person drive another vehicle in the opposite direction as you to make sure you are not blinding other drivers or airline pilots. I'm sure in the populated area where you live there are auto shops that can steer you in the right direction as to which light and lens to choose. Something like pianotuna installed might be your best bet as long as you purchase the correct light. I found it's not the best idea to cheap out on lighting, buy a quality light and wiring.
bobndot 09/28/19 10:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Novice looking for an upgrade to Class C

My advice to you is to find a floorplan that you can live with regarding living space, storage space and ease of usable space. You don't want things to be too cramped. The only way to find out without actually buying one is to rent one or spend a few hours in various floorplans 'roll playing' that your camping in it. Make a list of your stuff and configure where it's going to be stored and how your stuff will be used. All rvs no matter how much you spend have problems. Don't think if you buy one that's more expensive that it will be less problematic. I found the best and most honest info was from the mechanics who repair them. I found a few rv mechanics that actually steered me away from buying units that have frequent recurring issues, saving me thousands of up front dollars. If you desire more detailed info, feel free to send me a PM and I will go through things with you. Good luck in your decision. Regards, Bob
bobndot 09/26/19 11:18am Class C Motorhomes
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