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 > Your search for posts made by 'cavie' found 187 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Arcing sound from rear of rig

If you are hearing rattling noise then I'm going to assume you gave a Generator and a transfer switch. If no generator then there is no transfer switch. Transfer switch will rattle with a problem connection. That's is where I would start. Check ped and trailer connections. If your hearing just buzzing or cracking noise it a loose burning electric connection.
cavie 06/19/19 09:51am Tech Issues
RE: 12 VDC loss

Please explain what you are calling the Aux Battery Switch. Circuit breakers are 120 volts so forget about them. The only breaker that has anything to do with the 12 volt system is for the converter. It charges the battery and supplies 12 volts for the 12 volt system When plugged into shore power, Be sure your telling us ALL the things that don't work. What you describe sounds like it is just one fuse blown. Explain how you checked the fuses.
cavie 06/17/19 03:29am Tech Issues
RE: 12 VDC loss

Please explain what you are calling the Aux Battery Switch. Circuit breakers are 120 volts so forget about them. The only breaker that has anything to do with the 12 volt system is for the converter. It charges the battery and supplies 12 volts for the 12 volt system When plugged into shore power, Be sure your telling us ALL the things that don't work.What you describe sounds like it is just one fuse blown. Explain how you checked the fuses.
cavie 06/17/19 03:29am Tech Issues
RE: Hot water

how do flush your hot water tank If a suburban pull the anode rod. If an attwood open the pressure relieve valve and let the water run a while.
cavie 06/16/19 08:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Toilet seal for foot pedal plunger.......

If it's a Domedic 320 call a service guy. Very tricky to install. No tools involved but very tricky. Seal cost $30.00. Charged me $25.00 to do it. Need RV supply house or Amazon to buy seal om your own.
cavie 06/16/19 03:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Terrible condensation/mold? What to use to prevent

Mine is kept in a seasonal campgrounds all the time. It is closed up for 8 months winter season a year. I have MaxAir covers on the roof vents. For the first two years we left the roof vent OPEN all winter. No problem. The third year we forgot and left them closed. Have you ever tried to clean mold off of mini blinds??? This year we left them open again and were very pleased to come back to no mold anywhere. I don't know if being up in the mountains of Hinsdale MA at 1450' has anything to do with it but it does work. Local RV repair tech informed me of this. Now if I was down in Florida I would not dream of trying that. My house is locked up tight and the A/C is set at 84 degrees and no body is home. Humidity stays around 50% While we are here we run the dehumidifier if the heater is on. No wet windows and walls that way. If we don't use the dehumidifier with the furnace all the windows fog up on the inside. Water will run down the wall. It all has to do with where you live.
cavie 06/12/19 03:31am Travel Trailers
RE: 240V from 120V generator

call an electrician. Have him install a Generator lock out to match your house panel. You cannot supply 240 volts from your gen. You will have access to any 120.
cavie 06/03/19 07:37am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: PVC Pipe Solvent/Cement, How do you Prolong in storage ?

with 50 years of PVC glue experience I can tell you you can not store it for long periods. Just buy small cans. Check it before your next project and buy new small cans if need be.
cavie 06/03/19 05:40am Tech Issues
RE: Do I need a surge protector?

Found out after we bought one that our coach has surge protection built in but... I still prefer that the 300.00 or less unit we plug into the tower, post, outlet or whatever to take the hit instead or at least first. It saved us grief a few times. In Missouri the campground had both 50 amp circuits going to one leg. The unit kept everything from frying on that leg and half the coach was dark. I'm not sure that was the diagonsis. It has been a long time. In Michigan a campground we visit a lot on a packed holiday weekend a surge then brown out was caught by the unit. Another occasion lightning hit power distribution, something or other and popped the unit. During a storm some trees and high tension lines, came down and all kinds of fireworks popped the unit. Our unit is undamaged but I have read here and elsewhere, over the years, of RVs being saved by the units which themselves were sometimes fried. In some reports the mfg replaced the damaged units but not always. I don't remember the two or three brands or even what mine is at the moment. It plugs into the pedestal and cord into it. There are post here on this forum and others of some RVers losing microwaves, air conditioners,tvs and every thing else from a surge,...and brown outs from low voltage. We don't have one of the EMS that boost voltage but it's on the list.. We see low voltage we turn on the generator and disconnect for time being. EMS does not boost voltage. There are 3 different devices. Surge protector, EMS, and Auto transformer. Each one does a different job. Do some research.
cavie 06/01/19 03:35am Tech Issues
RE: Mystery with Suburban furnace

sounds like a faulty control board. What you are doing is resting the controls. Try resenting the T-stat.
cavie 05/31/19 01:14am Tech Issues
RE: Magnum error code

Getting high volts AC Any ideas what is causing this. Assuming your looking at the incoming AC power voltage I suggest you use a volt meter and go outside and plug test the voltage at your shore power and see what it reads. They should be the same.
cavie 05/31/19 01:09am Tech Issues
RE: Tap into my 30 amp Dryer outlet for an RV outlet???

To clarify...it is a double pole 30 amp breaker...and it leads to the outlet in the laundry room and the washer and dryer are both plugged into what appears to be a standard 15-20 amp grounded outlet. double pole 30A is going to be a 240 circuit. Washer and dryer run off 120V. So, something is at least "strange". It could have been rewired at one time, with the 30A set up for a electric dryer and then either the 30A doesn't go to anything anymore, or someone used 1 leg of the 30A breaker to wire in a 120V 15/20A outlet. Or the 30A circuit still leads to a 30A 240V dryer outlet somewhere in the laundry room. Even if you have a gas dryer I suspect code still requires the laundry room to have a 30A 240V outlet for the dryer. The other possibility is that years ago what was occasionally done is to run two circuits (split phase) to each duplex outlet. at the outlet they would break out the tab between top and bottom and wire one leg to the top circuit, one to the bottom. that made the "duplex" outlet into two single circuit outlets, still only needed one ground and one neutral. worst case neutral current would be the breaker rating for the circuit, best case neutral had no current flowing. However if that was done the breaker should have been either a 15A or 20A, not 30A Someone may have replaced the dryer with gas, looked at a way to get another 120V outlet, left the 30A breaker in place and replaced the 30A 240V dryer circuit with a split circuit 120, one circuit for the dryer, one for the washer. In that case the wire to the outlet should be #10. But it may not have a seperate ground and neutral, which is a no-no. Every gas dryer we have ever had runs on 120V, needing no more than a 15A circuit. In fact, in our house the washer and gas dryer have run on a single 20A circuit for decades and decades, most often running both at the same time. Unless you are very familiar with electric codes and wiring I'd have a qualified electrician take a look at the what you really have going on. You REALLY need to know EXACTLY what the current wiring situation is BEFORE proceeding. There has never been a requirement for a dryer circuit in a laundry room. Only a Dedicated 20 amp 120 outlet in the laundry, To the OP, Chances are it was wired for a Dryer and someone rewired it for 2 separate circuits and it may be code if originally wired with 4 wire romex. Best to have an electrician look at it. I would just use a dog bone and plug into a 20 amp circuit. Manage your usage.
cavie 05/30/19 06:37pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tap into my 30 amp Dryer outlet for an RV outlet???

Considering your gas dryer also uses 120 volts for the "gas valve" (not referred to as an element) you may need some fine tuning on electrical circuits. The 30 amp outlet for your dryer is 240 consisting of two hot, and one ground wire where as your RV uses one hot, one ground and one neutral wire for 120 volts. It would be better to add one 30 amp 120 volt CB and the proper wire to an RV outlet and much safer it would be. The RV outlet polarity must be wired correct as well. You can google RV outlet wiring schematics and if you are not sure, well? deleted..
cavie 05/30/19 06:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Do I need a surge protector?

I know this sounds like a stupid question, so let me explain. My new rig has a Precision Circuits PCS, which works in hand with a Magnum 2Kw inverter. The documentation states that the PCS will work together via an inverter assist mode. The PCS also brings up circuits one at a time, has L-1 and L-2 voltage status, shows amperage draw, can detect between 30A, 50A and genny. And has alarms for brownouts, overvoltages, and wiring status error. The PCS also brings up circuits one at a time, has L-1 and L-2 voltage status, shows amperage draw, can detect between 30A, 50A and genny. And has alarms for brownouts, overvoltages, and wiring status error. The auto transfer switch (Ironically made by Surge Guard) does not have any surge protection. So it seems the switch itself is not protected. So before I invest around $300 in a Progressive Dynamics HW50C, I am asking if I actually need it? It seems some of the functions of it are redundant to ones I already have. The PCS can only alarm you. An EMS works on it's own and turns power off when low and back on when correct with you having to no nothing. Prevent form high and low voltage. Not just alarm. Will not allow current to flow with an incorrect wired ped. It is a much different kind of equipment. Your PCS is a load sheader. I just turns off equipment till the draw is with in tolerance.
cavie 05/28/19 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator Issues

I’m assuming they wired something wrong after the fire. Everything was working fine before hand. Move one of the A/C's to the other leg. Just swap with a smaller breaker on the other leg.
cavie 05/27/19 08:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 14-50 Nema converter to 30 AMP female

So I just installed a 14-50 Nema outlet to charge my electric vehicle. I believe it's 240v, but as far as I know it pulls it from 2x120v. Can I use an adapter and plug my 30AMP 110v trailer to it? Will I get 240v or 110/120v? 50 amp is 120/240 just like at home. 240 L1 to L2. 120 volts L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral just like at home. Yes you can use and RV dog bone to hook up to your 30 amp 120 trailer.
cavie 05/27/19 04:50pm Travel Trailers
RE: Generator Issues

Check to see if the A/C's are on different lines. L1 and L2.
cavie 05/27/19 04:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camper Backwashing Power Into Vehicle

Little Bill, yes. It keeps playing with the switch in the off position and the keys removed from the ignition. I didn't think that could possibly be normal either. When you unplug the 7 pin it stops instantly. GM does that until you open the door.Then the radio will shut off.
cavie 05/27/19 05:10am Tech Issues
RE: One night running the heater and blower

One note, open a bath roof vent or something. A by product of LP burning is water vapor and will drive up the humidity in your RV. No need to open a vent. Running a furnace does not produce water vapor inside the trailer. Yes it does. We must run a 30 QT dehumidifier with the heater on or watch the water slide down the glass onto the walls. We don't open a vent.
cavie 05/25/19 03:08am Beginning RVing
RE: Need an opinion

You will need to understand where the power is going to give it a shot. Most everything else off or set to propane only. Still need 12v to run the controls so the converter should not be turned off but the battery needs to be charged. Also the higher the temperature the harder to start/run along with the generator will lose some power at higher elevation. Give it a go with one... worst case you buy the second. There is also a very highly rated soft start electronic control to replace the start capacitor that will really help if you need to stick with 1 generator. The newest A/C units do better than the old so you have a pretty good shot at running on one gen. A hard start capacitor is a 2nd cheaper alternative. Both will work. I would go with the second generator and one of the capacitors. It's only money.
cavie 05/25/19 02:50am Fifth-Wheels
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