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 > Your search for posts made by 'cbr46' found 9 matches.

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RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

I had muddobber babies INSIDE the gas suppy tube. How they got through the gas jet I don't know but they were clogging the jet. https://i.postimg.cc/sXztHMCw/1114191326b.jpg I also had a pretty good mess inside the combustion chamber. https://i.postimg.cc/jd2B1VB0/1105191257a.jpg Good luck, - bob
cbr46 11/19/19 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

Some people put screens over the outside ports. Manual says not to. What say you and what size screen? If nothing else I'll cap the ports over the summer. Tricky part will be not turning it on . . . . Best, - bob
cbr46 11/14/19 03:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

Job done. Those little critters were looking for anywhere to hide. The original nests . . . . https://i.postimg.cc/jLV8W1sZ/1105191257a.jpg Dumped them out. This was a few weeks ago. Thought that was the only problem . . . . NOPE! https://i.postimg.cc/3dgt2ZN7/1105191300.jpg These came out of the supply tube today. https://i.postimg.cc/67Hjy53v/1114191326b.jpg And a closer look . . . . https://i.postimg.cc/BtRzT6C5/1114191334.jpg Now we're all hot and toasty again. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Best, - bob
cbr46 11/14/19 03:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

And over a white piece of paper! Workbench is a white smooth surface . . . . :-) At least no one is jumping on replacing the control board, and all the other stuff is free. If it is the board then it's relatively easy to replace later. Many thanks, - bob
cbr46 11/13/19 04:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

No webs, gas chamber had the muddobbers and even though it wasn't clogged is now clean. Exhaust tube is clean and blows hard - no soot inside the tube. If anything the mixture is lean (hence "woofing out"). Tnx, - bob
cbr46 11/13/19 09:19am Class A Motorhomes
Atwood Furnace Problems

I posted this in an existing post a few days ago in Tech Issues forum. No one is responding so (forgive me) I'm also posting here. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29966083.cfm My Atwood SF-35 furnace is 17 yrs old. Some surface rust but overall pretty clean. Fan comes on, a minute or so later gas is turned on and I can hear the igniter frantically clicking (as it should). I faintly smell propane coming out the furnace exhaust. FAINTLY. I'm not sure how strong of a smell it should be. The smell comes & goes. Sometimes the furnace will light but then goes out. I can hear a 'woof' or two . . . or multiples. Sometimes it will run for a few minutes but never reaches a good outlet temp. Maybe 90F. Normal is 120F+. Other gas appliances work as they should. Batt voltage is 12V+ There were muddobber nests inside the flame chamber. They were cleaned out. Otherwise the inside was pretty clean. The burner was removed and although it looked clean I ran a quick brass wire brush on it (by hand). I also inserted a rubber coated electrical wire into the gas jet. It went in easily letting me think the jet wasn't clogged. I didn't remove the jet to look for rust inside the tube. The igniter tip was cleaned and is 1/8" from burner (spec). So where from here? #1 I don't want to spend $90 for a control board I may not need. Yes, I'll get a Dinosaur board if I replace. #2 The furnace isn't easy to disassemble - the supply tube nut is so tight I have to completely disassemble the fan shroud to get the tube out. Laborious! Any experience with gas valves quitting . . . . or rust inside the supply tube (clogging the gas jet)? Can I apply 12V to the gas valve to actuate it? For testing ONLY! It's cold out! Fortunately I don't have a trip planned for a week or two. Thanks, - bob
cbr46 11/13/19 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Generator Fault Code 2- Low oil pressure

What oil viscosity does the manual recommend? Try a thinner viscosity oil (first #). ie 5w30 vs 10w30. My Honda portable has the same problem, more so when it's cold out. Once it's running a few minutes it's good for the weekend. I run a Honda 2000 because it uses 1 gal / 8+ hours vs the genset at 0.5 gal / hr. And I never hear it running. Best, - bob
cbr46 11/12/19 07:02am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

I have a similar problem. My furnace is 17 yrs old. Some surface rust but overall pretty clean. Fan comes on, a minute or so later gas is turned on and I can hear the igniter. I can faintly smell propane coming out the furnace exhaust. Faintly. It comes & goes. Sometimes the furnace will light but then goes out. I can hear a 'woof' or two . . . or multiples. Sometimes it will run for a few minutes but never reaches a good outlet temp. Maybe 90F. It should be 120F+. There were muddobber nests inside the flame chamber. They were cleaned out. Otherwise the inside was pretty clean. The burner was removed and although it looked pretty clean I ran a quick wire brush on it (by hand). I also inserted a rubber coated wire into the gas jet. It went in easily telling me the jet wasn't clogged. I didn't remove the jet for more inspection. Q1 - Control board, gas valve or rust inside the supply tube (clogging the gas jet)? #1 I don't want to spend $90 for a board I may not need and # 2 it's not exactly easy to disassemble (the supply tube nut is so tight I disassemble the fan shroud to get it out). Q2 - Can I apply 12V to the gas valve to actuate it? For testing ONLY! Thanks, - bob
cbr46 11/11/19 09:13pm Tech Issues
RE: replacement tire suggestions

I just ordered a set of Hankook A11/DH07s for my 2002 F53. I was focused on Sumitomo but the winner didn't carry those (or Toyo). Safety might be king but it always comes at a price. Does that mean a mid-priced tire is unsafe? I think not. How about a bottom priced tire? The selling dealer installed Dynatrac tires in 2013. Probably can't get much cheaper than those. Last week I was coming back from an 850 mile trip (one way) when the almost broke exhaust broke off dumping exhaust gasses onto the rear set. I checked tire temps along the way and the highest the tread got was 150F vs 120F on the other side. While nervous I continued on. I will say Oklahoma has some of the roughest interstate I've ever driven. I'm sure there's worse, but OK is not ok. W AR wasn't much better. Oh, and US78 heading East out of Memphis too. Worst part of that leg is there's a bypass around the sketchy part (road and neighborhood). I made it home without incident. The rear tire looked low so I checked pressures - 120 on the outside and 0 on the inside. There's no telling how long I was driving like that but I thank God for getting me home. I still won't buy a Chinese tire but these gave me a renewed respect for some Chinese brands. Which ones are maypops will always be a question. I looked at some etailers as well as a few local recommended shops. I chose Akins Ford Auto / Truck dealership in Winder GA. They quoted a TOTAL price including local and federal taxes, mount, balance, disposal. The other shops were going to charge extra for everything but the tires. Moral is don't discount the auto dealers. They can have some good deals on tires. All I have to do now is limp to the dealership. Prayers said and fingers crossed! BTW, the broken exhaust was from a cone I grazed somewhere in NC (I think). It bent the pipe into the tire. I straighten the pipe and installed a sleeve over it. The sleeve kept loosening and I kept tightening but it was clear it wasn't going to be a permanent solution. It's fixed properly with a new piece now. Funny how some things get prioritized to the top. I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their tire choice experiences. It really helps! Best, - bob
cbr46 10/24/19 02:24pm Class A Motorhomes
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