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 > Your search for posts made by 'cummins2014' found 552 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Replacing New Trailer King RST+ : Only Option Is Carlisle??

What do your LOADED axles weigh? Hinting around about those Endurance tires of yours are you ??? :B Being that he has OE F rated tires I wouldn’t even be thinking about Goodyear Endurance on his fifth wheel . OP needs to shop around , and get a set of Sailuns made in China , probably smart to stay away from Vietnam until it gets figured out . But doubtful even the Vietnam made are going to be a big issue .
cummins2014 10/19/21 06:00pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Andersen Ultimate Hitch - my observations

Thanks for all the comments. Couple replies back. I didn't realize you could install the hitch two ways. I guess in theory that makes sense, I just followed the stickers on the hitch that pointed an arrow towards tail gate and installed it that way. Guess it makes sense that it could go either way.. I was just following the stickers. My adapter is mounted towards the rear. Based on the measurement instructions from Andersen, it called for it to be mounted that way. I would check with Andersen before turning the base around. Physically, you can, but structurally, I don't think it's designed to carry the max load that way while pulling the 5er. Makes sense to me when I look at mine. I put a stall mat under mine to mitigate against rotation, and it works great. After I hooked up the 5er, I re-torqued the top bolt and got another half turn or so...... I have my adaptor mounted towards the cab of the truck. ie, the cup/pin is closer to the cab to put the connection point over the rear axle. I still have lots of cab clearance, so no issue there. At the scale, the weight on the front tires changed by 20 pounds lighter from unloaded to loaded, so it looks like the connection point could still be very slightly behind the rear axle. Not enough for me to notice at all, and it handles great. I did ask Andersen about reversing the frame on mine (1st gen original aluminum) and they said "no problem". One of us is getting bad info. I just got am email back from Andersen saying that the base cannot be turned 180*. Only the coupler. The base must be installed with the arrow pointing to the tailgate. You might want to follow up with Andersen. Possibly mixing up it up with the one I got ,which is the steel rail mount version. I can run it either way I want ,also the adapter . .
cummins2014 10/19/21 03:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

Anderson makes a brass replacement valve that is a whole lot better,but not cheap. Mt fifth wheel has that brass Andersen valve that's the tank fill, winterization , and city hookup, if that's what you are referring too. The problem is in a separate bypass valve for the water heater , that's a Thetford Valve ,which I am replacing. I know if you are not careful with those Andersen valves under pressure ,and switching them back ,and forth you can blow an O ring. If say I am hooked to city water ,and want to switch that valve to tank fill, its a good idea to shut the water off first relieve the pressure , switch the valve then turn the water back on . Pretty sure there is no problem with that valve, its in the bypass valve .
cummins2014 10/17/21 10:42am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

Shark bite fittings work very well. They are spendy, perhaps enough so that you could buy your own pex crimp tool and parts for the same money. Convenience comes with a high price. Look into that Down the road a buyer of your unit will see the right fix, not a shortcut. Other posters to my comment were correct I am wrong , about check valves the check valve in this application is to prevent flow so as a normally closed , low pressure would not be a problem. Thanks again . I ordered the replacement, one day delivery from Amazon, I saw the tool, and the clamps . I agree I’ll go that route , once I know what fittings I’ll need .
cummins2014 10/16/21 09:23pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

Another question , what are the thoughts on using shark bite fittings to replace this valve ??
cummins2014 10/16/21 10:16am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design. The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank. Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water. When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve. The check valve is spring loaded closed (closed is normal position) and does not require water pressure to close it. When there is no demand on the hot water system, water pressure is equal on both sides of the check valve and it remains closed. When a tap is opened, the pressure in the hot water side drops below the water heater tank pressure allowing it to overcome the check valve spring and allowing water to flow. They generally fail by gunking up with deposits and stick closed. However I am sure they can stick open the same way. That also makes sense , either way I am going to just replace it . As said in a previous post I have dealt with this same valve in two different fifth wheels for 13 years ,and this is the first problem I have had . Thanks
cummins2014 10/16/21 10:00am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

its a likely problem many have had before you not a valve issue, but a too slow a pressurization to close the check valve. As said that makes sense ,but I think I messed up taking off that fitting, from what I saw they are not supposed to be taken off . Oh!! well live ,and learn . Thanks again .
cummins2014 10/16/21 07:45am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

Same thing happened to me last year as I have the Anderson valve set up. Only thing I did try last year for 1st time was blowing out the lines w/ air. Because I was on a tight deadline to get RV to storage place, I bought a water heater hose bypass (like 10-15 bucks) to get me thru things and worry about it in spring. Had to take apart the basement wall and such, but was able to get things done. This spring, replaced a check valve on water heater side. No probs all summer. So when I went to winterize it this Mon, I followed directions at docking station, flipped lever to bypass and turned the A-valve to winterize and no probs. Perhaps when I did the air thing, I messed things up......dunno. I as well thought the A-valve or bypass valve went south and was going to replace the A-valve. About dropped my eyeteeth when I saw it was about 100 bucks and looked to be more involved than I thought. Found a place in OH that had the exact same type of A-vlave just not from A-valve co for a fraction of the cost. Ordered it just in case the check valve on water tank didn't work. Now I cannot locate it here in the house! Go figure. Anyways, I believe I put the cart in front of the horse last fall trying to be in hurry and messed up the check valve on water tank. Same here , plus I got one fitting off the bypass valve. The A valve I am careful with ,, been told to get the pressure off before switching to a different mode, or it could blow an O-ring. I am going to attempt to get that fitting back on the bypass, have my doubts . If I can't I will buy a new bypass , and replumb . They are about $60.
cummins2014 10/16/21 07:43am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design. The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank. Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water. When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve. Thanks .And I think I blew it , I took off one of the fitting ,and from what I saw as said on my previous post those fittings are not intended to come off that valve comes with a barbed fitting to hook the lines to . What you are saying makes sense although my last two fifth wheels have had the same valve. I must of been extremely lucky on the previous one, because the way I did it today is how I have done it for the past 13 years. 12 years on the previous fifth wheel , and last year on this one. What I will do is try to reconnect that line ,and see if It leaks when I pressurize the system as you have said to see if I can get that bypass valve to work correctly. It will be no fun to try ,and replace that valve where thy have on the back of the convience center, its a bear to get to. I have the basement panels off ,but still with all the water lines its a messy bunch of lines in there .
cummins2014 10/15/21 06:54pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Water Heater bypass valve.

https://i.imgur.com/30tXVR7l.jpg If your bypass looks like this, it is likely the one way valve at the top red line out that is stuck open, and may need replacing. Jerry Thanks Its the one valve system, nothing else to turn off or on. I'll just replace the whole valve body it looks to be one unit, nothing to take apart , has water lines going in from both sides ,and the bottom of it . I watched a YouTube on it ,and it appears those fittings do not come off ,although they do have screwed on fitting, but when you buy the replacement it has barbed fitting in all three connections to hook back up the water lines . . Now on mine those lines are put on with a steel crimped band, so it looks like I will have to cut them off ,and splice back together .
cummins2014 10/15/21 06:28pm Fifth-Wheels
Water Heater bypass valve.

Went out to winterize the fifth wheel today ,turned the bypass valve to bypass, turned the water inlet connection to winterize . hooked up the short hose to the inlet connection , then into the gallon jug of antifreeze . Went in the fifth wheel ,turned on the pump ,opened up the kitchen faucet got a little water coming out, but not much. Went back out ,and the jug of anti freeze was empty, and I could see where the antifreeze had been running out the water heater ,I had the plug out. So I turned the bypass valve back ,and forth a couple times from normal to bypass , and tried again , same results . This is the second winter I have had the fifth wheel, no issues last year when winterizing. Its a simple task. Turn to bypass ,and turn the water inlet to winterize ,and get after it. My question at this point do those manual bypass valves go bad ,hard to imagine they would, but can't think of another reason its not bypassing the water heater . Any thoughts before I order a new one, and replace ??
cummins2014 10/15/21 04:51pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Andersen Ultimate Hitch - my observations

Heavy? I use an electric hoist I mounted my garage to unload my 5th wheel hitch. My garage is tall (12') enough I don't have to remove the hitch to park our car under it, but, even an 8' high garage will do. Same here ,electric garage hoist mounted to the ceiling. I got my Andersen for our summer trip to Montana, need the hitch out of the way to transport my inflatable pontoon boat to the lakes up there for fishing. Got tired of dealing with that heavy manual sliding hitch away from home .
cummins2014 10/14/21 02:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Andersen Ultimate Hitch - my observations

My steel Andersen hitch has instructions on a label on the actual hitch, but it does not say anything about re-torqueing it. I am positive I read that on the paperwork instructions included with the hitch. I see there is no mention of it in the current online instruction manual, which covers all of the hitches, including the steel one I have that has been discontinued. Next time I am at the camper, I'll locate the paperwork. Makes sense to me though, after dropping the camper on the hitch, the bed deflection causes the bolt to no longer be torqued properly, allowing some fore and aft movement. I can get more than one turn of the bolt to obtain the proper torque. Current truck is a 2012 Ram 3500 Dually. I do wish I had a more secure connection with the modern puck system, but this truck is paid for now, so I'll stick with it. Thats one of the reasons I have the rail mount Andersen . I have the puck system on my Ram , but I have the frame adapter that attaches to the pucks ,and the steel rail mount Andersen attaches to that at four points ,like a conventional hitch. They still sell my hitch. I got there because when I bought the truck in 2014 there were not many hitch options for the puck system, and I wanted to use at that time my existing hitch which required bed rails ,so the adapter was the solution, and also accommodated the Andersen later on. If not I would of stayed with a conventional hitch, not a great fan of the gooseneck connection of the Andersen, although many are .
cummins2014 10/14/21 09:43am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Andersen Ultimate Hitch - my observations

Turn the hitch around, all the Andersons I have seen, places the load rear of axle. This alone will cause bucking and front end bounce. I certainly can't disagree, but it sure doesn't apply to ALL towing with the Andersen, and it isn't a issue with me . Could it be the Op's problem, yes !!!
cummins2014 10/14/21 09:31am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Andersen Ultimate Hitch - my observations

Round trip from mid-Georgia to Greenville SC for a nice long weekend. About a month ago, I decided to switch from my Superglide auto slider to the Andersen Ultimate hitch. Not that I didn't like the superglide, I do, but I wanted the lighter hitch so it would be easier to remove from the bed between trips. Im not getting any younger, and I am using my truck a lot more as a truck, now that I have 7 acres of land to tend to. So, install was a snap. Nothing really to adjust. I bought the gooseneck version, with the Andersen shaft, no slip pad and chains. Installed, torqued everything down, and all good. Driving experience was not so great. Rough roads were REALLY rough with the hitch. I had recently driven over the same roads with my Superglide and it was not anywhere near as rough. Concrete interstate with any sort of roughness was really bad. Like a bucking bronco a couple of times. I don't think there's anything "adjustment" wise, because it's all install and torque down.. no adjustments to be made. I have a RVing friend who has the same setup. We were camping together this weekend. He has a dually, I have a SRW. He says he does not get the bucking and rough riding I experienced. On way back, overall not as bad, and the road close to home on southbound side is not as bad as the northbound side was heading out. Unless there's some way to smooth this thing out, I suspect I will go back to the Superglide. Seems like the extra 200lbs the Superglide weighs really made the ride much smoother. Wondering if others notice the same thing? Anything I can do maybe to the truck, or the pinbox to smooth things out? I like the hitch overall, like the weight savings, and like the ease of removal.I don't have air-ride on the truck, and have what I consider a standard pin box. Nothing fancy, not a Trail Air or nothing like that. I won't buy a dually just to get a smoother ride. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Lets just try to NOT make this an AUH bash session. Mike Don't really have any solution or help for you .Although my experience switching to the Andersen is totally different. But I have the rail mount steel Andersen . I went from a Resse 18K manual slider to the Andersen , I tow with both, just depending on the trip. Lately its just been with the Andersen. Both hitches are very smooth ,no chucking or rough ride at all. I can't tell the difference . The two hitches have been used with two different fifth wheels , one with the MoRyde pin box ,and the. present one without . Here again no change in towing with either hitch. I was skeptical with the new fifth wheel without the MorRyde ,had towed nearly 12 years with the previous fifth wheel with the MorRyde , but this one is just as smooth . I can't imagine what would cause a change in the ride, as with all Andersen hitches they can be run in 4 different positions . Two different positions with the adapter ,and two with the hitch . I have run mine with the adapter ,and the hitch putting the fifth wheel further from the cab. My truck is a short bed . That puts the weight slightly rear of axle center, as said no change in the towing. After a couple trips ,I realized watching the distance between cab ,and fifth wheel I could be a bit closer to the cab, so I turned the adapter around putting the truck ,and fifth wheel closer together ,no change in towing, and no clearance problems with the cab of the truck. With this configuration I am actually sitting on the axle in the same place as I was with the Reese manual slider in the tow position. I think its been mentioned you may try adapter or hitch position change. Of course it all depends on cab clearance ,with my new fifth wheel the front cap corners are a lot more rounded then the previous fifth wheel letting me be a bit closer to the cab ,but as said mine tows very well regardless of what position the hitch is in .
cummins2014 10/14/21 09:20am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 2021 Ford Bronco

Fish, Was that not the "twin traction" something or other front end? Iirc it was ok. I was seriously thing about a 96 crew cab from Ford, the 250 was a horrible turning truck with it, vs the 350 with the sofa excellent tight radius, GM ifs was in the middle. 5' or so difference between them. Went with a GM, not smartest choice, but still wish I had it, even with the 6.5TD. Marty I don't recall the names of those Ford suspension but "twin traction" sounds familiar, but the F350 had a solid axle. Back then I had a '87 and '92 Chevy trucks. Come on guys, you that young :B It was twin I beam . Fish , here I thought you were the blue oval guy .
cummins2014 10/09/21 07:27pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tires again

Just a heads-up about the Sailun: they are now made in Vietnam, and there have been several instances of complete tread separation. This was on tires made earlier this year in Vietnam. Dunno if it's a continuing problem. I loved the Sailun tires on my Fuzion, six years old and still going strong when I sold the trailer. Now I'm having second thoughts, but won't need tires for another year or so, hopefully anyway. There may be more news by then. Hadn't heard this. Will keep my ears/eyes open for more info. FWIW, we have Provider G's on our 30' GN triple axle trailer. They're working well, so far. Lyle Couple reports on the Montana forum with the Vietnam made Sailuns, looks like a bad batch, they had about the same date codes . No blowouts ,what I saw was partial tread separation . 12v98, might have to consider those Endurance next time if those Sailuns continue with issues ,or make sure they are made in China . :B
cummins2014 10/08/21 07:47am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 2022 HD trucks delivery date

I know the sky is falling . It is? Sitting under it now having my coffee, looks like it's still at the same altitude to me. Hopefully the air pressure in your cranium may be keeping it up there lol. :B
cummins2014 10/03/21 10:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: 2022 HD trucks delivery date

No you didn’t , but you missed the point . It’s a figure if speech , here we go again , some relative said this or that , so I suppose reading it here on the internet, it’s got to be true . :R Really? I guess I'll still take the advice of the gal who is a VP in the core electrical architecture division out in Dearborn with over 15 years under her belt at FMCO, who holds a masters degree from CMU. I know the sky is falling .
cummins2014 10/03/21 07:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: 2022 HD trucks delivery date

I have 3 family members who have worked for Ford a combined total of somewhere in the neighborhood of 60+ years. Their take is don't buy anything affected by the current shortages. Semiconductors, and other components, are being used which are from various sources and not the ones the trucks and systems were designed around. Take your chances I guess but with the amount of electronics in new vehicles, I'll pass until this passes unless I have no choice. I've had a vehicle with electronic problems before this current foolishness and it wasnt a picnic. It took a dozen trips to the service department over 7 months and it was finally resolved by them having a Ford electronics guru fly in who solved it. And here we go again , because some relative said so . I’ll have my son get back to you with any issues . Again? Interesting! I don't believe I've posted anything prior about a relative saying anything. No you didn’t , but you missed the point . It’s a figure if speech , here we go again , some relative said this or that , so I suppose reading it here on the internet, it’s got to be true . :R
cummins2014 10/02/21 09:46pm Tow Vehicles
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