RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 670 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 34  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 12v master Reset Breaker --- typical causes for tripping?

That is a 12 volt breaker. NO 120 appliance will cause the overload to trip. Also a short in the DC supply to that breaker will trip it. I do NOT like manual reset breakers. I would replace with a auto reset breaker of the same amp. Transient things in RV's cause fuses and these type breakers to trip. With an Auto reset, once the overload or short goes away it resets. Both Auto and Manual reset breakers can wear out over time if they continually trip. Doug
dougrainer 11/19/22 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

Once you have ANY blockage small or large or complete, Burping the refer(removing and standing on its side or top for 24 hours and then reinstalling,DOES NOT FIX THE CONDITION. It will allow some cooling a little better than before burping, but the problem is still there and after a few days/weeks the original blockage problem will diminish cooling. As I stated, the blockage is as hard as a weld and the cooling unit tube at the top must be cut off and a new upper tube welded in place and then recharge. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/22 01:36pm Tech Issues
RE: 2022 Fleetwood Flair 28A fridge question...

According to the insignia manuals, there is no way to shut off without disconnecting the power cord. BUT, usually, some OEM's have the refer power outlet at the back wall on a cabinet next to the refer cabinet. You have to remove a drawer or access panel and reach in and unplug. This is if they do NOT have an outside access plate behind the refer. Doug
dougrainer 11/17/22 06:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: HELP: Suburban SW12DEL propane issue

Remember, you CANNOT compress Liquid(water), but you can compress air. You have a Dometic/Suburban WH. This type problem is rare on suburbans, but very common on Atwood WH. The Water Heater MUST have a slight air gap inside the tank. When the burner is heating, pressure in the tank builds up, but the air cushion absorbs it. NO AIR cushion and the Pop Off valve drips/seeps. It is very rare for a pop off valve to seep/weep is fairly new. Try this procedure. Doug PRESSURE-TEMPERATURE RELIEF VALVE Weeping or dripping of a pressure-temperature relief valve while the water heater is running DOES NOT mean it is defective. This is normal expansion of water as it is heated in the closed water system of a recreation vehicle. The Atwood water heater tank is designed with an internal air gap at the top of the tank to reduce the possibility of weeping and dripping. In time, the expanding water will absorb this air. To replace the air follow these steps: Step 1: Turn off water heater Step 2: Turn off incoming water supply Step 3: Open the closest hot water faucet in the coach Step 4: Pull handle of pressure-temperature relief valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops. Step 5: Allow pressure-temperature relief valve to snap shut, turn on water supply and close faucet
dougrainer 11/17/22 01:19pm Tech Issues
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

The best way in sub 20 (F) weather is just a 120 volt 40 watt incandescent light bulb installed in the area behind the refer. In sub 20 degree weather the Refer will not cool at all. The sub cold weather kits I have never seen or ever needed. Texas is not an area that would require them. Doug
dougrainer 11/17/22 08:04am Tech Issues
RE: HELP: Suburban SW12DEL propane issue

Is the WH in a slide room? Also, oily build up in LP systems can cause a problem on just 1 appliance, if that is where the oily build up happens. Also turn on the Range LP burners on HI. Then start the Gas furnace and see what the range burners do. They should not pulsate or diminish. If they do, your LP regulator is bad. Doug
dougrainer 11/16/22 05:51pm Tech Issues
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

Yes, a ARP type device in my opinion is a MUST HAVE modification. Until they were developed years ago, there was no device to help prevent cooling unit destruction. Doug
dougrainer 11/16/22 05:48pm Tech Issues
RE: 2022 Fleetwood Flair 28A fridge question...

post brand and model of refer. Some refers can be turned off, but you have to follow a specific procedure. Some you can turn off the cooling system and that leaves just the interior light that comes on when you open the door. Others turn off the complete power to the refer. Doug The REASON there is a specific procedure on some refers is simple. You want the refer to always come back ON if there is ever a 120 power outage.
dougrainer 11/16/22 11:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

Chris, My comments come from 43 years as a RV technician. ALL are solid based on MY travels and what I have seen about RVer parked at roadside areas and eateries and even in neighborhoods. TRAVELING on slopes and inclines does NOT cause an out of level problem as the movement overcomes the problem of the Ammonia system. The overheat disc is a SAFETY install. Has nothing to do with stopping a potential blocking problem. IF the out of level or even a large blockage happens, running the Refer, can cause a burst of a cooling unit at its weakest points. IF on LP, the flame can ignite the spewing ammonia and cause a fire. So after lawyers sued Dometic and Norcold 25 years ago, both installed overheat disc's. There was a massive recall over 20 years ago for millions of refers to have the overheat kits installed. ALL new refers since then had the kits installed at build. Doug
dougrainer 11/16/22 09:06am Tech Issues
RE: Headlights Went Out

Ford or Freightliner? Newmar made the MA on both Diesel and Gas chassis. AS crazy as it sounds, you may have BOTH headlight bulbs out. I ran into this years ago and could NOT believe the problem was both bulbs failed at the same time. So, check, the power to the rear of the headlight assbly. IF Ford, and the tailights stay on(headlights would stay on also but not if bulbs are bad), engage the parking brake and see if they go out. If so, it is a relay assbly on the Ford Chassis fuse block. Doug
dougrainer 11/16/22 08:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Convenience Center Switches

odds are it is a KIB circuit board. What you can do is search for a KIB panel that has the similar button tank readings. If you find one that has 2 Aux tanks, it will probably fit you just will not use the 2nd tank. Doug
dougrainer 11/15/22 04:00pm Tech Issues
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

S-J-Chris. Are you an Engineer? Also, when commenting on temps in the USA, use Fahrenheit, not Celsius. 99% of people do not want to figure out C to F. That said, the normal operating range is about 350 to 400 degrees F. The TRIP temp of the Norcold recall box is about 750 degrees. The trip temp of the Norcold and Dometic temp disc is about 800 degrees. As to off level. People forget all those times when traveling they stopped for a few hours to sight see or eat and those times start to add up. Rarely when pulling over will you be level for safe operation. Doug
dougrainer 11/15/22 12:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Convenience Center Switches

https://www.atcomp.com/ If you are talking about the monitor panel. Rarely do they go bad. It is usually a sensor or wiring fault. All other parts on the panel can be found easily. switches may not be same color but you can find them in red or orange. Doug
dougrainer 11/14/22 05:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Bad Lippert O ring

Never got a response from Lippert or any of the on line companies that makes custom o rings. Probably not interested in making one o ring. I did resolve the problem. I added a small washer to each of the 4 hold down bolts. This gave me more compression on the o ring. I think the bolts were bottoming out on the pump. Anyway, I now have it fixed with no help from Lippert! No response? I just went to LCI online store and put the o ring in my shopping cart. I did not order it, but it did not stop the process. Glad you found a solution, but I still think a $30 (including shipping) would have been worth the effort. Doug
dougrainer 11/14/22 05:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

This is one of the main things I'm trying to understand about the cooling unit operation while out of level. Assume for example the RV is parked on a steep driveway with the refrigerator on. What happens if the refrigerator is out of level and starting to overheat and the refrigerant cannot flow where it needs to flow. Then a thermostat cuts off the refrigerator power when the boiler temp hits 205*C and then turns it back on when it cools to 170*C and it just oscillates between 170*C and 205*C. Does any damage occur if left in this oscillating state for a few hours or even days? Would the refrigerant cool and harden and cause some incremental damage? -Chris Yes. The problem is when the refrigerator is running, it vaporizes the ammonia solution. That vapor then goes into the piping where being off level causes some of it to retain and solidify. It being subject to occasional shut offs doesn't prevent that. I am unsure if occasional shut downs would slow down the process because it is running less, or speed up the process because it has more cooling off periods for the ammonia to precipitate. It would definitely reduce the cooling efficiency inside the refrigerator. I believe the only way to assuage your fear is to replace it with a compressor refrigerator. I have been trying to learn/understand refrigerator operation more so that I can best protect from overheating. Correct me if I am wrong, but the only thing that should be in the coils (top of the fridge down towards the bottom) is ammonium and hydrogen. These do not "harden" as they cool. The ammonium is a liquid. In the boiler it turns into a vapor and rises and then starts its journey through the coils at the top of the fridge on down towards the bottom (speaking in simplified terms here...). During this process, it is cooled and turns back into a liquid (it doesn't harden). So I'm not sure this is an issue. One significant thing (most important?) to avoid during operation is having the boiler get too hot and boiling the water that is inside. This can be avoided with a thermostat (or Fridge Defend). If the water did boil and the boiler got too hot, then the rust preventative solution inside the cooling unit can start to crystalize (...builds up over time). This can weaken the rust prevention protection and cause the metal tubing on the cooling unit to start to rust. This rust can cause a rupture/leak eventually. This crystalizing can also ultimately cause blockages in some of the tubing. Having a thermostat (or Fridge Defend) will prevent this from happening. One additional concern is too much pressure in the cooling unit. During normal operation it is under pretty high pressure (350-400psi). If the boiler/system gets too hot the pressure increases. If there are weak spots (due to rust) in the system it will put more stress on those spots and increase the chance of a rupture or leak. A thermostat (or Fridge Defend) will prevent this excess pressure. So far, from my still limited understanding, I feel like if a thermostat (or Fridge Defend) is installed and it prevents the boiler from getting over 220*C (...I will likely set it to 205*C) then all of the above issues can be avoided. Thoughts? Thanks! Chris Your thinking is correct except about the blocking process. When the liquid cannot go from gas to liquid due to incorrect gravity, the liquid "adheres" to the area of the cooling unit just below the freezer coils. The actual process has never been completely explained to me how this gets "HARD". It just happens. It starts out gradually and everytime you run off level it adds a little more to that blockage. One day, your refer does not cool as expected. It still cools but not as well as new and is harder to cool in hotter ambient temps. The blockage has been described to me by both Dometic and Norcold at Tech schools as harder than a weld. The ONLY way to rebuild a blocked cooling unit is to cut out the top of the coil and weld a replacement. Blockage, the freezer will still appear to freeze, but will not get below 10 degrees which is spec. This is how when people sell their RV with a bad refer, they always show the freezer as "cold". But cold is deceptive, 5 degrees to 32 degrees will seem the same. One of my trainers from 40 years ago explained blocking as like Heart disease. You are born with a clear functioning blood artery system. But gradually over your lifetime, by eating the wrong foods, your arteries become slowly clogged. Then one day, you have a Heart problem and you think it "just happened". Your arteries are partially clogged, not instantly, but over years. Doug
dougrainer 11/14/22 07:31am Tech Issues
RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control

Out of Level and overheating will do just 1 thing---DESTROY(block) the cooling unit. There is NO way for a fire to happen. Both Dometic and Norcold have installed overheat temp disc's for the past 23 years. So, if it overheats, the unit trips the disc and shuts off all power to the refer. BUT, the damage to the cooling unit has already happened. If I had a rental or was dumb enough to let friends and family use my RV, I would install the ARP device . This keeps anybody from operating the refer when it starts to overheat. Doug
dougrainer 11/12/22 08:51am Tech Issues
RE: HwH is getting Ridiculous

People call and have no idea what year model they have or what HWH system they have and it takes time for the phone tech to wade thru and slowly get that info. Yeah, right, let's get the pity-party going for HWH....Right. I needed to contact someone there to figure out what I needed to fix the leaking HWH pump system in our Tiffin Bus, and it took THREE DAMNED MONTHS for anyone to finally return my call. And YOU try to justify THAT kind of "customer service"???? C'MON, MAAANNNN. YOU CALL GM OR FORD AND ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSIS YOUR VEHICLE OVER THE PHONE AND GET PARTS. REPORT BACK. HWH IS NOT IN THE BUSINESS TO TELL RETAIL CUSTOMERS HOW TO FIX AND TO SELL PARTS. THEY DO THAT AS A CONVIENANCE. PEOPLE LIKE YOU MAKE PROFESSIONALS LIKE ME HAVE TO WAIT FOR PHONE TIME. Doug
dougrainer 11/12/22 08:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic glide out

How new is this trailer, motorhome? 2002 hitchhiker 5th wheel. This older style Hyd. slides the usual cause was one of the slide rams leaking internally. Depending on the Brand of the Slide system determines the procedure for troubleshooting the rams. Doug
dougrainer 11/08/22 09:53am Fifth-Wheels
RE: AC Question & I'm away!

Advent is a newer low cost chinese addition to the RV market. Very few OEM's use Advent. They do not have a track record yet. BUT, I would go the Advent route due to the age of your RV and the fact that Advent makes an adapter kit for your Carrier. Doug PS, Carrier exited the RV market after a few years because the units were junk Can I replace a Carrier upper unit with an Advent upper unit? If all other components of the Carrier system are functional, the ACCARKIT Carrier interface kit allows the Advent upper AC unit to connect to the existing Carrier relay box.
dougrainer 11/07/22 10:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steps acting up again

Odds are you have a Kwikee step. WHY you won't respond with what Brand step is why you cannot get help. 1. If Kwikee, the control modules NEVER go bad. So, if in 5 years you have had 2 modules replaced, you or a Service center was throwing parts at a problem that never got fixed 2. MOTORS on Kwikee DO go bad, even in less than a year. The symptom is intermittent operation. The motor has a dead spot in the Armature. Kwikee Step motor reliability has dropped in the past 10 years ever since LCI purchased Kwikee. 3. To determine if you have a intermittent step motor is simple. Start the engine, IF the step functions you cannot test for a bad motor. IF the step fails to function, Open and close the entry door and look at the underside amber step light. IF THE STEP LIGHT GOES ON AND OFF WHEN OPENING AND CLOSING THE DOOR, THE WIRING IS CORRECT. 4. Now, with step not working open and close the entry door and when opening tap the step motor with a hammer. Not hard enough to dent the casing but hard enough to jar it. IF, after several attempts, the step starts operation, you have a bad motor and need it replaced. Doug
dougrainer 11/05/22 08:54pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 34  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.