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RE: Norcold N611 AC circuit
Yesterday, I noticed a problem with the romex that supplies the AC outlet in the refrigerator's outside access. A small loop of the romex was pressing slightly on a fairly sharp edge of a galvanized sheet metal brace that supports the sheet metal piece that the controls and etc of the refrigerator are mounted to. I looked at the romex, and there is a dark, sharp dent in the plastic outer jacket, maybe leaking current to the sheet metal bracket. I pulled the loop of romex away from the edge, wrapped the dent in electrical tape, and the AC refrigerator heating element is still working since then. I think that fixed the problem.
The link to the Norcold Service Manual is much appreciated.
Thanks to all for the electrical information and the willingness to help!
Thanks for the update. I MISSED where you stated HOW it tripped. A defective Heat element would NOT trip a GFCI unless the refer was turned ON to 120 power. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/17/23 09:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold N611 AC circuit
You have a Heater Element with an imbalance of current draw. On a NON GFCI circuit the element would work OK. Just replace the 120 element. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/16/23 09:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trouble with Poop Chute
1. If you stated your post correctly. YOU NEVER LEAVE THE DUMP VALVES OPEN WHEN CAMPING. ESPECIALLY THE BLACK TANK. COLD or Hot weather
2. If you doubt this, look up POOP PYRAMID.
In warm weather or long term, I agree with your assessment.
For a quick weekend in really cold weather, I'll disagree (30F is not really cold weather).
One weekend isn't going to create the pyramid and assuming you otherwise let the tank fill and sit a bit between dumps, anything that does start with get taken care of by sitting in the half full tank.
The trade off in really cold weather (assuming you don't have heated tanks) is that things freeze and bust.
As far as the OP's issue, it's possible that things got pressurized if the vent tube slipped down towards the bottom of the tank. When the airspace warmed up during the day, the pressure had no where to go except to push water up vent tube. It overflows and runs back down the outside of the tube before dripping down and forming icicles. The waste water could also find it's way into the walls where a lovely aroma can develop.
Really? You are an expert on just a weekend? There is usually very little water flushed when toilet is dumped. The S**t goes straight down and hits the bottom of the tank. Now, you are the expert. HOW MANY people used this on the weekend? YOU DON'T KNOW. THE TANKS HAVE VERY LITTLE SLOPE. So, everytime you dump the toilet the debris plops down on top the previous and without adequate water(GONE because the valve is open) the debris just stacks up. Sorry, after 43 years as a Tech I make good money getting rid of the Pyramids. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/13/23 01:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Smoke Detectors
9 volt battery Smoke detectors are the same for House and RV's. They do not make a special Smoke detector for 9 volt battery operated. That said, I have rarely seen a 12 volt wired smoke detector. COMBO CO and LP 12 volt I have seen. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/12/23 09:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Burning electrical smell from furnace
Welcome to the forum.
You've replaced every component except the blower motor. Could it be .... the blower motor?
Thanks Joe, you missed this: So this year, I thought surely it has to be the motor, so I replaced that as well. It seemed to help at first, but that could have been coincidental.
But, I had a thought last night...there are only three vents in the trailer, and one of them is covered with a rug; occasionally, one of the other vents gets covered with a cat tree if we push it back without noticing. Is it possible the extra resistance in the system would be enough to burn out the motor?
No. The result of restricted ducting is the Hi Limit switch would constantly trip and reset. Motor burn outs are extremely rare. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/10/23 11:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 2014 Fleetwood Bounder Rear Slide Fuse
MOTOR HOME FUSES AND
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
The 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses
are located on three separate panels. The purpose of these three panels is to provide electrical
circuit breakers and fuses to interrupt current
flow if a circuit is overloaded.
1. 120-volt House Electrical — This electrical panel is located under the bed or the
refrigerator (location varies depending
upon model). This panel is very similar to a
residential panel with resettable breakers.
2. Fleetwood Automotive 12-volt System —
This panel is located in a side compartment
or in the engine access compartment. This
electrical center contains battery disconnect
systems, entry step, fog light, and some other
automotive circuitry.
3. 12-volt Chassis Fuses — This electrical
panel is located under the driver’s side
dash area
Fleetwood customer service says there is not one fuse for each slide out. They are controlled by one module located in engine compartment.
I have worked on all brand Motorhomes for 43 years and have NEVER, seen a slide module or fuse in the engine compartment. NEVER. Remember, you have a 2014. Odds are the people you talked to at Fleetwood have never seen or worked on your RV as they have not been with Fleetwood very long. ALWAYS ask when you call OEM's technical, how long they have been employed by that maker. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/09/23 07:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2014 Fleetwood Bounder Rear Slide Fuse
MOTOR HOME FUSES AND
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
The 120-volt circuit breakers and 12-volt fuses
are located on three separate panels. The purpose of these three panels is to provide electrical
circuit breakers and fuses to interrupt current
flow if a circuit is overloaded.
1. 120-volt House Electrical — This electrical panel is located under the bed or the
refrigerator (location varies depending
upon model). This panel is very similar to a
residential panel with resettable breakers.
2. Fleetwood Automotive 12-volt System —
This panel is located in a side compartment
or in the engine access compartment. This
electrical center contains battery disconnect
systems, entry step, fog light, and some other
automotive circuitry.
3. 12-volt Chassis Fuses — This electrical
panel is located under the driver’s side
dash area
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dougrainer
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03/07/23 02:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Overload built-in Onan gen. without popping a breaker?
There were no fault codes.
I didn't monitor the voltage because it seemed to be fine until it wasn't.
I'll check the voltage next time I run it under load.
When you say "kill" do you mean make it stop or break it?
Bad choice of words. Yes, it may stop running if too much oil. It can cause the LOPKO(oil pressure switch) to not see the pressure. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/06/23 05:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: AC doesn't cool
The ONLY way to check freon charge is by the amp reading of the compressor. Go on top and see if the compressor is running(humming). If not, then find the problem,Wiring or capacitors. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/06/23 05:04pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic 12 V fridge DMC4101
If under warranty, get it to a Dometic Service center. Suppliers DO NOT assist in retail work by customers under warranty. They do NOT send out warranty parts for retail customers. So, I don't understand why you are complaining. IF you cannot get a Service Center to work on it, then complain. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/06/23 10:44am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trouble with Poop Chute
1. If you stated your post correctly. YOU NEVER LEAVE THE DUMP VALVES OPEN WHEN CAMPING. ESPECIALLY THE BLACK TANK. COLD or Hot weather
2. If you doubt this, look up POOP PYRAMID.
3. Tanks, the down pipes are supposed to be sealed on top the tanks. As another posted, fill up the Black tank full and then slowly fill the rest of the tank THRU the toilet, until water comes up into the bowl. Once you do this, if the vent pipe or the toilet pipe and gasket are NOT sealed you will see water drip on the ground. No leakage, your system is OK.
4. IF you camp with the Black Valve OPEN, you will have a poop pyramid. THESE SMELL HORRIBLE.
5. Your relative did nothing to cause this problem.
6. If you have a Black Tank flush, this may be a leak area, but the fill test will confirm this. Doug
PS, tanks have NO overflow system
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dougrainer
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03/06/23 10:38am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Overload built-in Onan gen. without popping a breaker?
too much oil will kill a Onan Gas genset. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/06/23 08:33am |
Tech Issues
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RE: In Search of Local Repair Shops for Motorhome
https://www.rushtruckcenters.com/locations/10120000-dallas
Rush works on Ford chassis. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/05/23 08:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome Refrigerator Problems
You show a 2006 Discovery, which would indicate a 1200 series Norcold.
1. The shop did nothing wrong unless you left the refer ON
2. Did your service require them to look at the refer?
3. The most common cause of NO CO, is running off level and IF you left the refer ON when you dropped off for service, odds are they could not park you level and off level caused the off level operation which caused the Heat to build up and tripped the NO CO sensor and control board.
4. 2nd most common cause is the rear cooling fans not operating and causing the Cooling unit to overheat
5. Then we have the dreaded yellow leaker of ammonia. It is usually evident around the LP Burner area.
6. AS the other poster stated, 1st NO CO lets you know a operating parameter was BAD. You have 2 bites at the apple. Turn OFF and then ON and IF you get a 2nd NO CO without a normal cool down operation, the 2nd NO CO locks you out of the controls and operation. If a normal operation happens the 1st NO CO is erased.
7. You have a separate control board that monitors NO CO. It is NOT part of the Main control board. It is mounted on the lower back side cooling coils accessed from the outside refer door and will have a red LED light ON if tripped. If it is tripped the 2nd time, Norcold advises to have the refer checked out by a qualified Norcold shop. There is a procedure to reset the NO CO box, but I do not tell people how to do that. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/03/23 08:16am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Power Steps Not Working
Be sure the door magnet has not fallen off if it has one. Have seen this happen many times.
I should have stated to be clear. IF you follow my way to test, this verifies ALL connections, except the ON/OFF kill switch, which will be bypassed with the engine ON. Doug
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dougrainer
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03/01/23 05:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: stairs
The fold up IN the RV type step cost $600
The OLD style fold out steps are $250 to $400. So where and why would some state price as a reason????? The new style are much more stable than regular fold out steps. Doug
One possible reason is labor costs at the OEM level. Labor is often one of the highest manufacturing costs of a product.
For the older style fold-out steps, the higher-end camper RV manufacturers integrated a well-mounted set of steps, not the diving board set of steps, -welded part of the step framework to the main frame rails and bolted them to the floor to reduce the diving board effect and for reduced liability of the step unit breaking away from the camper. Then they had to cut the siding skirt for the steps, and some brands even installed a trim skirt bezel around the opening. With more parts and labor involved, the added cost of the product to produce goes up.
With the new fold-down steps (LCI (solids Step) or Mor-Ryde) on the assembly, line labor is significantly reduced. LCI, which now makes many entry doors, has a slightly shorter screen door to create a larger gap at the bottom with added felt on the bottom to allow for the threshold plate the Solid step uses. To install the solid step on the assembly line, drop the mounting plate over the threshold, shoot 4 to 6 screws in, and they are done—no cutouts in the lower siding or door bezel parts. There is no welding to the frame or bolting of the steps to the bottom of the floor. And they can now even sell a doormat to catch the dirt the steps can leave inside when folding up. Make some more profit.
Marketing and management set the retail selling price for retail versus OEM cost. What we see on retail or even at the dealer cost differs greatly from what the OEM pays.
These are just a few thoughts on how the RV manufacturer can save money on installing a quick attaching set of steps and try turning it into a selling feature. The thought possibly being it's new, it is solid, and thinking it should help sell the camper better. But, it should be a choice as we all do not camp or store the camper the same.
In my case, I upgraded the main entry steps to the Torklift Smart Step-Glow Step system. It is solid, still fits under the same hole as the original Hickery Springs fold-out steps, and deals with more terrain issues in remote campsites. They are very good steps and not cheap. Short of a truck camper, they may never come standard on a TT or 5er; they cost too much. I left the front bedroom doors as the fold-out steps. They are quick and easy for the wife to drop down when we stop along the way and need to get in the camper in the parking lot etc.
John
Sorry, but your cost of OEM versus retail is wrong. Granted, there is a LOWER cost at OEM but the fact remains, that Retail costs are higher for the door fold down. BUT, the OEM for both types will be lower, but the door type is still higher than the standard old style. MOST of the door fold outs have an adjustable bottom leg to meet different uneven patio pads. I have NEVER had a customer complain about the door step type system. Doug
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dougrainer
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02/28/23 08:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: stairs
The fold up IN the RV type step cost $600
The OLD style fold out steps are $250 to $400. So where and why would some state price as a reason????? The new style are much more stable than regular fold out steps. Doug
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dougrainer
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02/27/23 05:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Power Steps Not Working
With Engine ON, open and close the entry door. IF the underneath orange step light comes on and off when the door is opened and closed, your wiring and fuses(so far) are OK. The most COMMON fault if the previous checks out is a dead armature on the motor. With the engine running, open and close the door and HIT the motor with a hammer. Do this until the step extends. Once the step is extended, you can easily replace the motor. Odds are the step will operate now, but with a dead armature spot will fail again. Replace the motor while the steps are extended. Doug
PS, the steps assbly's NEVER need any type cover. The controls and motor are sealed from the elements.
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dougrainer
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02/27/23 11:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Electric galley slide issues_Slim Rack_2018 Seismic 4212
I should have mentioned. Both the slim rack and the Schwintek type slide mechanism's, ALL THEY DO IS MOVE THE ROOM IN AND OUT. The slide box is supported by the under floor rollers. The floor rollers are not really part of the slide motor design. BUT, are required for a SChwintek/Slim Rack box. Doug
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dougrainer
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02/26/23 08:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric galley slide issues_Slim Rack_2018 Seismic 4212
The dealer wording was "5 year warranty", but yeah, it's a service agreement with a deductible, so it's like an insurance plan. I did read the contract and if there was a way to prove I did not put grease on the gear rails, I would have been covered. However, it looks like we are not going to need to replace the motors and gears, they are just going to clean them, thankfully.
It's not a schwintek, it is a "slim rack", it's on their website. They list 5 different types (Schwinteck, slim rack, above floor, fast track & through frame).
Yeah, after I got off the phone with LCI, I was armed with a lot more information. I was definitely not going to be replacing motors and I was going to bring it home and clean the gear teeth until they were spotless, ten I was going to lube the gear shafts, but the stealership is going to do it for a pretty good price.Wow, learn something new every day. I had no idea there were so many different brands.
There are numerous "Brands" and sub products in the Brands. That is why it is so important to state Brand/Year/Model RV and the brand and type slide system to get good help. I would say there are at least 30 or more slide systems. Doug
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dougrainer
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02/26/23 08:07am |
Tech Issues
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