RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1020 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 51  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: RVComfort.zc issue

I have a zc thermostat will do the same thing I have all led lights will be fine for along time then gets 00 code don't know what to do to fix it change thermostat same thing will be fine for a year than will have problem and than go away Really can't fix the problem without extensive check out of the 12 volt system and components in the RV. The quickest fix when 00 is to pop the cover off the tstat and pull the glass fuse for 10 seconds. Doug
dougrainer 09/30/20 09:06am Tech Issues
RE: RVComfort.zc issue

Even tho you state you ARE selecting Gas heat, is it possible you are possibly selecting HP on 1 zone? The RVP system has a 5 degree separation when on HP. If you have it on HP mode(either zone) it will revert to Furnace IF THE TEMP SELECT IS MORE THAN 5 DEGREES. So, 74 on stat. You select 68, the furnace clicks which it should NOT. But the 68 is out of the 5 degree and will cause furnace operation. BUT your setting is calling for HEAT, NOT COLD. I could see a possible conflict if it was 68 in the RV and you set for 74. So, I have another question. You select GAS Heat. The interior of the RV per the Tstat is 74. You are setting the Furnace at 68 because you want to make sure the RV, NEVER gets below 68 degrees? But the furnace still clicks? I would take a can of compressed air and blow out the wall tstat circuit board. Also, loosen the remote temp thermisters in the ceiling/wall mount screws. Doug
dougrainer 09/30/20 08:07am Tech Issues
RE: Help with 1998 Pace Arrow Vision Transfer switch

Odds are the Transfer Box you see is NOT the Main Transfer box for the Incoming 120 volts. You need to clarify. Does your year model have 30 amp or 50 amp Shore Power? The reason I ask is, when you see a 15/20 amp interior Transfer box like you have found, It is usually connected to the System that allows Front and Rear AC operation on Shore Power when you only have a 30 amp RV. Doug
dougrainer 09/30/20 07:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Two leveling jack will not go down

OK so maybe they were not open all the way. :) I talked to a tech at HWH today and he said they should open about 5-6 turns. So I opened them further and the jacks retracted. But now the motor is not working. I assume I ran it to long and fried it. I tested it at the terminals on the motor relays and I get 12.5 volts to it when someone hits the switch. So now I am in the hole even more that when I started. You did not burn up the motor. IF it is fried, it is because it reached its long term operational limit. You can jump to 2 large terminals on the solenoid with a heavy gauge screwdriver. Bypassing the internal touchpad. IF the motor fails to run and you get heavy arcing, your motor is fried. It is held on with 2 screws. Remove and take to a local starter/alternator rebuild shop for them to rebuild it. Doug
dougrainer 09/29/20 03:51pm Tech Issues
RE: RVComfort.zc issue

Do you have Heat Pumps also? Doug
dougrainer 09/29/20 12:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Two leveling jack will not go down

I am only working on the forward one so far and it does not move at all, I jacked up the rig a few inches with my floor jack and used a big prybar and block of wood as a lever and nothing. I put a wood block under the jack and lowered the rig and it just sits on the block. Going to leave it like that for awhile. Any other things I can do? I assume cracking the lines at the jack will do nothing. I see what looks like a plug on the side. If I crack that will that help? Thanks again for all the help! Are you POSITIVE the T handles are OPEN all the way? If open, then take a 5/8 wrench and gently crack open the Hydraulic line just a little. That will allow the bad jacks to retract. Have a catch pan under each bad jack. About 1 pint of fluid will come out. usually less. Doug
dougrainer 09/28/20 07:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Two leveling jack will not go down

OK dougrainer I tried it with all four T handles opened and all four extended. I hit the store button and only the two that were working previously retracted and the two that were not working are now stuck in the down position. I hit the off button and turned of the ignition switch so I do not burn out the other two. I have not closed the T handles. I assume they are stuck because they need to be lubed or something? Now what? :) Thanks! NOT good news. The 2 that will not retract have BAD internal seals and they are sticking. Leave the T handles OPEN. You will have to get either a floor jack or a long wood or metal pole to lever up the stuck jacks. IF your unit has air bags, start the engine and let the RV raise up when the air bags inflate. That should give you enough room to get under the stuck jacks unless you only extended them a few inches on your test. With the T handles OPEN, the jacks will retract when you lever them up with a lever or floor jack. Once fully retracted, close all 4 T handles. You will have to either replace those 2 bad jacks from HWH or remove them and send back to HWH for rebuild. Some local Hydraulic shops may be able to rebuild them also. You will also have to replace both solenoids that control those jacks. The previous owner KNEW of this problem. You will have to get the solenoids from HWH. If you cannot find a local shop to rebuild, you remove the cylinders and ship back for rebuild. ON the jacks are a Model number called a AP number. You really need that number of of each jack. The T handle solenoids are all basically the same. The NEW solenoids have a spring loaded release and no T handle. The front Jacks will be one model(the same AP number) The Rear Jacks are usually a heavier model but they will have the same AP number. Since your unit is 18 years old, I would also replace all 8 jack springs. Your old springs are probably rusted and have lost a lot of tensile strength. When you have a HWH jack, you can PUSH a GOOD jack to full retraction with just your hand. Doug
dougrainer 09/28/20 03:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Hot water heater not hot enough

IF automatic Ignition there is no adjustment. The quick way to determine how hot is to run until the flame shuts OFF and then open the outside POP OFF safety valve. IF that water comes out extremely hot, your WH is operating to spec and you need to look at possible Bypass valves or outside shower valves open. Doug
dougrainer 09/28/20 09:38am Tech Issues
RE: Two leveling jack will not go down

On your year you will have 4 solenoids that the 4 jack Hoses connect to. EACH Solenoid has a metal T handle for manual release. The 2 center solenoids are the front jacks and the 2 outer solenoids are the rear jacks. There is a label on the wire connection at each solenoid that will have RR RF LR LF. To make it easy, OPEN all four T handles and activate the jacks. Have someone inside activating and you be outside looking at all 4 Jacks. IF all 4 start to extend( all at once), then the solenoid is NOT stuck. Once you stop the Pump, the jacks will fully retract, so you have to have the pump activated long enough for all 4 to try to extend. Once you have determined WHICH of the 2 solenoids are for the inop jacks, and you state the fuses for those solenoids are good, then you want to test for 12 volts and Ground at the 2 wire plug when you activate the Pump. IF you have 12 volts at the solenoid, the solenoid is burnt out and must be replaced. Another way to test is to swap the 2 wire quick connect at the 2 center solenoids. That will cause the RF power to activate the LF solenoid and the LF to activate the RF. The usual cause of a bad/burnt out HWH solenoid is one or both of the inop jacks did not fully retract and the Red down light stayed ON and after 15 to 20 minutes of continual 12 volts to the solenoid it overheated and burned out. When a Jack Down light stays ON, the system keeps power to that solenoid until the down light goes out. These solenoids are MOMENTARY solenoids and should NOT have 12 volts more than 10 minutes. The spec for FULL retraction is 2 to 4 minutes per jack. This link is the Service manual for your system. Doug Page 12 shows which solenoid is which http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf
dougrainer 09/28/20 09:33am Tech Issues
RE: Lippert/Schwentec slide lube

Not according the Lippert video. On the video they show only lubing from outside. Then their tech says after lubing the outside coupler, "do the same procedure on the inside..." it is at 2:05 into this video. https://youtu.be/gXw9I_DoAvI Don't care what the Video shows. You need to understand that for years LCI stated to NOT install any lube on this system. Then at a Training class at our dealership years ago, the LCI Trainer also stated NO LUBE AT ALL. I then showed him LCI's You Tube video that you list and he was very surprised. I have probably replaced at least 50 sets or more of the complete rack system over the years as well as rebuilt a few. I KNOW where the parts are that need the Lube. And those parts are easily lubed from the outside IF you know what you are doing. Doug
dougrainer 09/28/20 09:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 29ME Battery box connections

Group 29 is a group 31 battery that has uni-terminals that allow fitment of studs, posts, clamp, or ring terminals. It specifies the battery ends can be swapped with no compromise in cable accessibility. This cannot be done with a group 24 or group 27, 30, or 31 battery Jayco 29 ME IS THE RV MODEL NUMBER, not the battery group:B Doug
dougrainer 09/27/20 05:10pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

Thanks for the ideas! I already had the episode where the back outside was hot on 120 but the fridge stayed warm. Turned out to be not level enough. This little fridge is very fussy about levelling, moreso than the taller fridges in our other RVs. I have a Kill-A-Watt, which I used to tell if there was any draw from the fridge when on 120v, but no convenient way to leave in as a display. I like the indicator lamp idea. Can't hear any flame. You have to stand on a chair to raise the outside panel, and unscrew the metal cover over the burner to see the flame. PITA. I need to work on a shade for the reflector so you can see if it is lit up when it is not dark in the camper. The OLD Instamatic refers from the 70's and very early 80's, had to be almost perfectly level to cool correctly. What may look like level enough may be out of level enough to slow good cooling. Doug
dougrainer 09/27/20 05:08pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

On a Dometic, the only way is to either test for hot on the cover or buy a clamp on AMP meter and test for the amp draw at the wires of the Heat Element. Doug ANOTHER WAY----- Buy a CHEAP 120 non digital clock and wire it thru one of the 120 Heat element wires. When on 120, the second hand will be turning. I guess you could do the same with a 120 digital, it would then flash when 120 was supplied. SORRY, Another easier way is to but a standard 120 volt small round LED light and install in the RV by the refer. Wire it thru one of the 120 element wires and when on 120 that LED light would be ON. Doug Like this, Just need one tho. BUT will only show that the element HAS 120 volts, not if it is Heating https://www.amazon.com/YC-9WRT-1R-120-10-INDICATOR-MINIATURE-PILOT-LIGHT/dp/B01E2UITTC/ref=sr_1_115?dchild=1&keywords=miniature+light+bulb+120+volt&qid=1601238731&sr=8-115
dougrainer 09/27/20 02:26pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

OP is missing in action. :( He said he has a two way in his 1985 but standard for 1985 is three way so we still don't know his model. I missed the part where it can be a three-way but still not need 12v. I get that now. BTW, the 2410 in our 1991 truck camper has that two button system for lighting it, and does not have indicator lights. I did not realize that means it does not need 12v connected--interesting! Since the OP stated 2 way, I stated NO 12 volts for the RM 100. IF you have a 3 way RM 100, then you DO need a heavy Gauge 12 volt wire Positive and Negative. Doug
dougrainer 09/27/20 09:18am Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

1985 Airsteam TTs had a RM 1303 3-way fridge as standard https://www.airstream.com/owners/document-archive/product/tt/year/1985/ http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm1303.pdf EDIT--using that link above, I went back as far as 1971 and they had "gas/electric combination" fridges as standard. Don't know the model for the fridge. EDIT--the 1982s still say gas/electric combo, the 1983 says RM100. seems to be a 3-way that uses 12v http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm100parts.pdf Ref here to a 1976 RM100 in an Airstream https://www.airforums.com/forums/f425/1976-dometic-rm100-no-cooling-l-kie-what-i-found-106531.html So that is 1976 for a "gas/electric combo" that was an RM 100 that does need 12v. Still don't have when that "modern" type of fridge started being made for Rvs 1303 is AES and DOES require 12 volt for operation RM-100 is the old very good standard Dometic non battery model. DOES NOT REQUIRE 12 VOLTS TO OPERATE. That is why it is important for the OP to state MODEL NUMBER. Doug
dougrainer 09/26/20 05:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Lippert/Schwentec slide lube

...The Red tube is more than long enough to get to the roller and nylon block assbly...Not always. If the interior wall is to close you cannot get the lube can in the right position to apply. I could lube 7 of the 8 bearing gibb assy. I would need arms almost a foot longer to reach the bottom bearing gibb assy. The lubing is done from the OUTSIDE, not the inside. Doug
dougrainer 09/26/20 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

vintage 1985 is just when Dometic came out with the AES model refers. AES stands for Auto Energy Select. They had a an ON /OFF switch with an indicator light. MANUAL Dometic Models, you had to HOLD the Pilot button and then continually push a Manual Piezo lighter button. If the OP has just an ON OFF switch, then he has an AES and requires a 12 volt source to operate. If he has to push in a button and then continually push the LIGHTER button, he does not need a 12 volt source. AS always, MODEL is required to correctly answer his question. Doug
dougrainer 09/25/20 01:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Domestic electric water heaters

Suburban and Atwood have both proven to be very good and highly reliable water heaters. Good to get positive feedback ! My daughter's Attwood never has run right since the first day the bought their Jayco. It would light once, but almost never re-light until you cycled the power switch. 3 trips back to the dealer and over $100 out of pocket for "igniter adjustment" and they gave up. If they want hot water, they have to keep cycling the power switch. Very strange. Your dealer is incompetent. Plain and Simple. IF a Service Center has a problem with an appliance, the FIRST thing they do, is CALL the Appliance Maker and explain the problem They will walk the Tech thru various tests. IF after the tests and any replacement parts do not fix the problem they may authorize a new replacement appliance. After 41 years as a RV tech, I have found that the younger RV tech crowd(and so called supervisors) seems to think CALLING for help is not the way to go. Well, I have better ways to make my money than wasting my time trying all sorts of tests. I refuse to just replace a part unless directed by the Appliance maker after all tests are done. By calling the appliance maker, you may find out that the appliance has a known fault with a part. Not published yet. As to your Daughters Atwood(Dometic now), you don't state what year model. BUT, there is a KNOWN problem with the Atwood Water Heater Ignition modules starting about 3 years ago and ending about 1 year ago. They had hundreds of thousands of defective Ignition modules and purged what they could. Doug Or.......your problem could be an issue with your primary thermostat. If it fails and your heater shuts off on the Emergency Cut Off (ECO) thermostat, the circuit board will lock out and not let the heater refire until you shut off the heater and turn it back on. It's a known issue. Richard NOT a "known" issue. I have never experianced a 180 degree lockout and then tried to see if the WH would relight without cycling the wall switch. IF the ECO trips at 180 degrees you WILL get the POP OFF valve weeping, which is usually an indication of primary tstat failure. As long as the air cavity is still in the tank. Doug
dougrainer 09/25/20 01:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Domestic electric water heaters

Suburban and Atwood have both proven to be very good and highly reliable water heaters. Good to get positive feedback ! My daughter's Attwood never has run right since the first day the bought their Jayco. It would light once, but almost never re-light until you cycled the power switch. 3 trips back to the dealer and over $100 out of pocket for "igniter adjustment" and they gave up. If they want hot water, they have to keep cycling the power switch. Very strange. Your dealer is incompetent. Plain and Simple. IF a Service Center has a problem with an appliance, the FIRST thing they do, is CALL the Appliance Maker and explain the problem They will walk the Tech thru various tests. IF after the tests and any replacement parts do not fix the problem they may authorize a new replacement appliance. After 41 years as a RV tech, I have found that the younger RV tech crowd(and so called supervisors) seems to think CALLING for help is not the way to go. Well, I have better ways to make my money than wasting my time trying all sorts of tests. I refuse to just replace a part unless directed by the Appliance maker after all tests are done. By calling the appliance maker, you may find out that the appliance has a known fault with a part. Not published yet. As to your Daughters Atwood(Dometic now), you don't state what year model. BUT, there is a KNOWN problem with the Atwood Water Heater Ignition modules starting about 3 years ago and ending about 1 year ago. They had hundreds of thousands of defective Ignition modules and purged what they could. Doug
dougrainer 09/25/20 06:58am Tech Issues
RE: Lippert/Schwentec slide lube

You are doing it wrong. The Red tube is more than long enough to get to the roller and nylon block assbly. Watch the video a few more times. Doug
dougrainer 09/25/20 06:49am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 51  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.