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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 885 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: New to us question

I can install and repair almost any component in an RV and NOBODY would know that it was NOT installed OEM. Including adding an extra wall tstat. So, yes asking the original owner would help. Doug
dougrainer 01/19/20 10:15am Tech Issues
RE: HWH levelers, again

HOW LONG are you giving the system to extend? HWH Bi-Axis(Pairs) system does NOT always extend BOTH pairs at the exact same time. Sometimes one jack will extend 3 or more inches before the Paired jack starts. From your description, ALL jacks will extend by themselves just not in pairs. Doug
dougrainer 01/19/20 10:12am Tech Issues
RE: New to us question

You need to clarify your post. From your description, you may have Roof AC Heat Pumps. AND from your description about the Emerson wall Tstat. 1. It is possible that the Emerson is wired to the LP furnace 2. It is also possible someone added the Emerson to bypass/inline with the BLACK square wall tstat that controls the roof AC/HP. 3. You need to state brand and model of Roof AC/HP. 4. You need to clarify from your FIRST description of Heat that the heat came out of the FLOOR registers or from the roof AC registers. 5. You stated HEAT and DOWNSTAIRS Air----No such thing on your model. I don't believe FR installs a Basement AC on any of their product line. 6. IF Dometic wall tstat and the Tstat Fan is set to LO or Hi, then when the furnace is ON, the roof ASC fan will run. Doug
dougrainer 01/18/20 10:32am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold fridge

ALWAYS replace the SPARK electrode when this happens. As others mentioned, a whole lot cheaper. Also, there is no pilot flame, just the regular flame. Doug
dougrainer 01/17/20 05:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2017 Legacy Headlight

There is no "fuse" for the Headlights. They are on a built in Circuit Breaker connected with the Dash Headlight switch. Usually you replace the Headlight switch, BUT if Hi beams operate, then check and make sure you have 12 volt power to the low beam. As unlikely as it sounds, both low beam bulbs may be bad. Doug
dougrainer 01/17/20 05:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help replacing charging circuit solenoid.

On your year model Winne 1. THAT solenoid you replaced should NOT have anything to do with the Chassis Alternator charging the Chassis battery. 2. That continuous duty solenoid you replaced does 2 things. When the inside dash switch is engaged on the DUAL indent, it sends a 12 volt signal to that solenoid to close and the chassis and Coach batteries are connected and the Chassis Alternator charges both battery banks. That DUAL position is energized ONLY when the Ignition key is ON. 3. The MOM spring loaded side of the switch is wired to the Coach batteries. When you push and hold MOM(momentary), it uses a 12 volt signal from the Coach batteries to engage that solenoid and combine the Chassis and Coach to start the engine when the chassis battery is low or dead. 4. Almost all motorhomes do not tamper with the Chassis maker Alternator to charge the Chassis battery when engine is ON. There are a few exceptions but very few. The add on controls and solenoids are to charge the Coach batteries when engine is running and to keep the batteries separated when the engine is OFF. 5. IF that solenoid you replaced also kept the chassis from charging, then I will bet someone has miswired the battery cables over the years. Doug
dougrainer 01/16/20 12:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug Hi Doug, Thanks for you input. I think that the connectors by the interior light are OK, (at least they look OK). But it is worth mentioning to you that the internal fans(2) from the ARP Device also connect to the black wire on this interior light. Perhaps that could be the cause of the problem? Possibly. In 25 years of working on hundreds of 1200's I have never heard or seen this type problem. I thought you stated you disconnected the ARP device and it still malfunctioned? There are 4 wires Positive/Ground(2) for the light. The other 2 go to the Thermister and should not be affected since they are separate. I thought maybe the pins at the connector may have corrosion and causing lack of OHM signal. Doug
dougrainer 01/13/20 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug
dougrainer 01/13/20 01:02pm Tech Issues
RE: HWH front right

Op again. Just spent more time looking for that roller bearing. As for mp65-3035 that is for a 9000# jack. Don’t look anything like mine. Mp65-3030 is what I seem to have 6000#, no bearing? Correct. No bearing. But, Look at where it states Vertical stop adjustment. Does your Jack (all 4) tilt slightly down? If not, then tighten the vertical adjustment bolts to Pull the jacks down slightly. After 20 years the cables are probably slightly stretched.What I do is spray Liquid Wrench all over the pivot points to penetrate and remove any rust/corrosion that hinders the jacks from freely moving. You should be able to grab the foot and pull down vertical easily and the jack will smartly spring back up. Doug
dougrainer 01/12/20 03:24pm Tech Issues
RE: "Leather" coming apart and peeling

Just because OLDER models have the problem does not translate to ALL models having this problem. Tiffin had this problem years ago. IF you have an older out of warranty Tiffin, they will recover at no charge if you go to Red Bay, Alabama. If that is not want you want to do, they will send you the covers and you will have to pay the local upholster to do it. There was probably a large bad batch of the Pleather that went out to ALL OEM's that used that brand. It has nothing to do with how you take care of it. Doug
dougrainer 01/12/20 03:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

@dougrainer - I think you may have solved it! Nobody ever mentioned anything about this wiring needing changed and I bought the board from the same people. I have even had email dialog with them about this problem. I'm curious about the info in caps. Where did you find that? I followed the link and looked around for other websites selling the 520839 kit, but can't find it. Thanks very much for your efforts in this. I'm going to order this and I'll post back after I get a result. It was simple. You stated the original P/N and the replacement. I went to my sources and NONE had the correct older replacement. BUT, the replacement you purchased did NOT state it would work for a SP model. ONLY S model. This was confirmed by various part suppliers. THAT raised a red flag for me. So, I researched and found that your new model required a extra wire kit. The caps was because that is how I copied and pasted when I found the solution. Once I found a supplier that listed the correct SP board(your new board) it stated you had to have the wire mod kit. If I was at work, I would have called Suburban and asked what was the correct Board number and they would have told me with the proviso to get the wire kit. Doug Per Suburban, you need the wire kit because you have 2 fan relays interfering with each other. A Time delay and the built in on the module board. The wire kit goes around the time delay relay.
dougrainer 01/12/20 01:10pm Tech Issues
RE: HWH front right

Op. Thanks again Doug, I’ve printed off both references you pointed to. Finally quit storming so got to crawl under. Sprayed all friction points with PB blaster. Well watcha know, it works now, but don’t know if the spray was just a make me feel good action. Wiggling it didn’t seem to be bound up anywhere. Posts above mention a roller bearing. Hard to see/feel around but didn’t see anything that looked like a bearing. There is a stout rod with circlips on both ends that the unit pivots on. Is that the bearing? Now this part is confusing to me: LF MOD #12447. RF MOD AP7164 LR. Ap7164. RR. 12447 SPRINGS HAVE 49 COILS. funny to me the opposite corners model numbers match. What would be the reason for that? So good to go for now, thanks for responses. Go to the Jack pic and it will state ROLLER BEARING. The Jacks. AP and RAP preceed the actual model number. The other 2 numbers, mean that they are RAP--Replacement numbers. That means those 2 jacks have been replaced at some time. The stout rod is the actuator. One thing, The jacks when retracted, should not be perfectly horizontal or tilt UPWARD. If so, they will not swing down correctly. You will see a Cable connected on both sides of the jack with adjustment nuts. You tighten to bring the retracted jack down slightly below perfect horizontal. Kick Down when adjusted correctly will yilt slightly downward. Doug
dougrainer 01/12/20 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Electric steps

Since you have a 2001. The step controller is no longer available. This link points you to the ONLY and best solution for getting your step back to OEM. Doug https://store.lci1.com/kwikee-step-motor-conversion-kit-for-triple-and-quad-steps-kwik-step-motor-kit.html
dougrainer 01/11/20 03:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

Here is the solution to your problem. Doug https://www.rvautoparts.com/520839-Suburban-Mfg-Furnace-Wiring-Harness-For-Suburban-Furnace_p_38029.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhvz435X85gIVUv_jBx2PegdfEAQYAiABEgL3k_D_BwE ON THE FURNACES: 521099 CAN REPLACE THE 520741 ON THE FOLLOWING MODELS IF YOU ORDER THE APPROPRIATE WIRE KIT WITH THE 521099 BOARD: SF20/25/30/35/42; SF20F/25F/30F/35F/42F USE 520832 WIRE KIT NT24/30/34SP; NT40 USE 520839 WIRE KIT NT12/16/20S; NT12/16/20SE USE 520840 WIRE KIT DD17DSI WITH DATE CODES BELOW 9124 USE 520612. DD17DSIWITH DATE CODES ABOVE 9124 USE 520741.
dougrainer 01/11/20 11:25am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

I would also state wrong board. Since the P/n's were different, then the odds of a wrong board are greater. Doug
dougrainer 01/11/20 11:07am Tech Issues
RE: HWH front right

Have you cleaned the control rod on the jack? Make sure it is straight Make sure the small bearing on top is free to spin. "Make sure the small bearing on top is free to spin". VERY critical for kick down jacks. Since you have kick Down, The ACTUATOR on the jack is bad. Doug https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf
dougrainer 01/11/20 07:24am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban Furnace Problem

Have you taken a voltage reading using just the Motor Ground and positive when attempting to start? Doug
dougrainer 01/11/20 07:20am Tech Issues
RE: HWH front right

The First thing you do, is open up the manual release nut/spring loaded 2 center solenoids on the pump manifold. Those are the front Jack solenoids. You then activate the pump. IF the jacks both go DOWN(extend) then you know the Jack and HYD lines are good and not pinched. Look at the Manual I linked and it will show which solenoid is the RF. Close the solenoids you just opened. SWAP the 2 -2 wire solenoid pigtails connections on those 2 solenoids. IF the RF now extends and the left does NOT, you have a 12 volt power problem from the Main HWH control board, probably a blown RF solenoid fuse. If so, replace that solenoid fuse. BUT if a solenoid fuse is blown, odds are it has a internal short and will blow the fuse again in the future. So, if this fixes the problem and it happens again(blown fuse) replace the solenoid. IF the rf jack does NOT extend when you swap the pigtails, the solenoid is bad. Doug
dougrainer 01/10/20 04:42pm Tech Issues
RE: HWH front right

325 JUST MEANS THE JACK CONTROL SYSTEM. HWH Jacks can be 2 types. KICK DOWN and STRAIGHT ACTING. Kick Down means they swing DOWN vertical when pressure is supplied and then extend and when retracting, they retract and once clear of the ground, will swing horizontal and fully retract. WHICH type you have will depend on the cause and help you require. Doug This is the Service manual for a Straight 325 system. https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml37640.pdf
dougrainer 01/10/20 04:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Water heater plastic plug

1. If you follow the manual and DRAIN your Atwood at least once a year,(better 3 or 4 times), you will not have a corrosion problem 2. Even HOME water Heaters require draining once a year and they do have anode rods. 3. I would like to see how a NYLON thread could damage the Metal threads in a tank---- ridiculous to state this. I Have never seen it in 40 years. You can cross thread the Nylon, but that just ruins the Nylon plug 4. ALL this talk and the simple thing is to just use the Nylon plug in Atwood. Is it really that hard and such a big deal? Just be proactive and drain your Water Heaters(Suburban and Atwood) on a regular basis. Takes 5 minutes. 5. ALWAYS drain either brand water heater when you are not going to use the RV for awhile. The water goes BAD in both brands and can smell awful
dougrainer 01/10/20 05:52am Tech Issues
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