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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 753 matches.

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RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug I would like to temporarily wire around the relay long enough to verify that the compressor will physically run. I think I just need to add a short connecting wire between the 110V input and the relay output circuit. Don't know what I might be doing to the balance of the board, if anything, just don't want sparks and fire. OK to do that? Yes, I will test the actual output of the thermostat by disconnecting that wire from the board. There are 2 heavy duty large wire gauge wires with Spade terminals on the relay. You can just pull them off the relay and interconnect them. Then apply 120 power to the RV. The compressor should start and run. Make sure you have NO 120 to the RV when doing this. Only connect 120 after you have jumped the 2 wires. Doug
dougrainer 09/17/21 01:11pm Tech Issues
RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

Ranger That's exactly what I did. Jumped 12V from GH (and GL separately) to the Y terminal and there was no response. I have the situation where one test would indicate that the board has failed (the above test) and another test would indicate that the thermostat has failed (only .8V on the Y term supplied by the thermostat). Seems like an impossible situation unless both the board and the thermostat are defective. I have ordered a thermostat to see if that fixes the problem. Like I previously said, they're only $20 or so and I need to get this thing fixed. If it turns out that that a new thermostat produces the correct result, I'm done, otherwise, I'll see if I can find a new board. They're pretty scarce right now. Regardless of the tstat, IF YOU HAVE 12 VOLTS AT THE UPPER CONTROL BOARD ON "Y", THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD COME ON. If NOT, your control board or the Capacitors are defective, NOT YOUR Tstat. BUT if you do NOT have 12 volts from the tstat on "Y", then find where the open is. Do you have 12 volts at the tstat on the wire for "Y"? If NOT then odds are your tstat is bad also. Doug
dougrainer 09/17/21 08:34am Tech Issues
RE: HVAC - No Compressor run

There is no low pressure cut off on his AC. You should have 12 volts on the YELLOW wire or "Y" terminal at the upper control board. If you do NOT, just jumper the 12 volts from either the GL(low) or GH(high) fan wire. Fan on LO and the GL will have 12 volts. GH and on HIGH it will have 12 volts. IF the Compressor relay fails to close and engage the compressor the upper board is probably bad. Doug
dougrainer 09/15/21 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Reset of Aladin

You state your Monaco owners manual states a reset switch. What Page is that stated on. MY 2008 manual states no such thing. It only states that on the link just for the Aladdin only manual. If I remember, the connections for the Aladdin is in the front dash area behind the dash monitor. It should be a large block like a stereo amp. Now, sometimes, on Monaco, they had some reset buttons but were NOT easily seen. They installed them BEHIND the overhead dash wood panels that are secured with screws. They did this to make sure people did not constantly push them and cause reset problems. Have you tried disconnecting BOTH battery banks AT THE BATTERIES? NOT use the disconnect, but complete disconnect of cables for 10 minutes and then reconnect? Doug
dougrainer 09/13/21 08:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV parts shortages

No shortage of Intermodal Shipping containers. What there IS a shortage of is the Manufacture of the items that GO INTO the containers and the Off loading of containers at the various USA ports. Most Intermodal Shipping containers are Rail freighted from the USA ports. Very few are trucked and there is a shortage of Longshoreman facilities to get the few containers off loaded and there is a shortage of Trains and crews to rail transport across the country. Once they get to the Various Intermodal rail yards in the USA, they are then trucked to final destination. Doug
dougrainer 09/12/21 12:46pm Tech Issues
RE: DC current draw at rest, 2.3 amps with nothing on

Make sure your Trailer Brake a way switch is also disconnected. There may be a slight fault in it drawing power. The Brake a way is wired direct to the battery POS post. Also, check your LP sensor. It may also be wired direct and not be fused at the Fuse center and have its own fuse. Doug
dougrainer 09/12/21 12:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Reset of Aladin

If this is the Manual you have I believe that is the older original Aladdin system and is probably not your 2008. Doug http://www.tckempke.com/HRNav/Aladdin-System-Users-Guide-05.pdf
dougrainer 09/12/21 08:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Reset of Aladin

1. Does the dash monitor come on at all? 2. Does the Rear View come on at all? 3. Does the dash Monitor have ANY indicator lights on at all? 4. I am not aware of any "reset" button for the Aladdin system. If such exists, I never had to access or use it in the dozens of Monaco Aladdin systems I worked on. 5. You are running th chassis engine and the House(coach) disconnect is ON and you do have 12 volt power in the Coach section? 6. Have you checked the fuses(all of them) in the LEFT FRONT outside storage with the large Fuse panel? There will be a 15 amp fuse labeled Aladdin main power. Doug
dougrainer 09/12/21 08:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Reset of Aladin

https://www.silverleafelectronics.com/node/4163 This is a link to Aladin solutions. Doug
dougrainer 09/12/21 08:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold Fridge Defrost Cycle

The Defrost cycle is 48 to 54 hours AFTER it is turned ON. If left on 24/7, it will defrost every 48 to 54 hours. ANYTIME the refer is turned OFF, the 48/54 cycle restarts from the time it was turned ON. The Defrost is NOT the same as a residential refer with Heat elements and a defrost timer and a place for the water to go. ALL the refer does is turn OFF for about 2 hours to allow the Evap fins to defrost the ice on the fins. The freezer will probably not do anything as a 2 hour shut down will not cause it to get that much warmer. The ICE on the fins degrades the ability to cool the lower section. Ice is an Insulator. Doug PS the water from the evap find will go thru the standard drain pan and out the drain hose to the rear of the refer and be evaporated hopefully by the HEAT from the cooling flue.
dougrainer 09/11/21 08:45am Tech Issues
RE: 400 mile electric RV

400 miles. BUT, THEY HAVE NOT ADDED HUNDREDS OR THOUSANDS OF POUNDS OF WEIGHT. They state "renderings" of what will make it a RV. They just have a body and drivetrain now. What happens to the 400 miles when you have the FULL BLOWN RV version? Is it going to be all electric or will it have LP appliances? ALL ELECTRIC means a drastic reduction in that 400 miles. How is it going to be Cooled? That will be a very hot box if no AC system. Water tanks and holding tanks. These add weight and decrease mileage. Me thinks this is a premature press release to try and gin up enthusiasm. They do not have a actual vehicle to be evaluated yet. Doug
dougrainer 09/10/21 04:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Defrost Cycle

Dometic has no such defrost Cycle. NORCOLD DOES. Doug
dougrainer 09/10/21 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: slide out

This is a troubleshooting guide. Doug https://newpar.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/SS2011SlideOuts.pdf
dougrainer 09/10/21 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: slide out

2004 Newmar will be Newmar designed Slide motor and mechanism. There are a few things that will cause your problem. The Lock arms are bent and jamming the slide from fully closing. The Motor Intellitec controller is either defective or needs its amp draw pot adjusted. The motor itself may be defective and is drawing too many amps and causing the Intellitec motor controller to amp out and stop operation. If you have a slide cover, have you checked to make sure the slide cover is not rolling correctly and jamming the last 5 inches? Usually the Motor Intellitec controller for the rear slide on Newmars is located in the Mid bath area cabinets. ALL parts are Newmar supplied except you can get the controller from other RV suppliers. This link shows what the controller looks like. Doug https://www.camperid.com/intellitec/control-module-mpn-00-00525-310.html?view=298508&gclid=CjwKCAjwhOyJBhA4EiwAEcJdcUp6brv73xHgR2nL2s_1H2HfbFdMHR0t7-ppQ-XvTHrBfVwfyAg9pBoCh1EQAvD_BwE
dougrainer 09/10/21 09:10am Tech Issues
RE: Help getting fridge to run while underway

Well, I think I'm in the final leg of this issue...I've spoken to Senior Member Jerry Parr, and Richard, a retired mobile RV mechanic, in pursuing why our fridge wouldn't operate correctly. Jerry suggested I call Norcold and run this by them. I did and they said if the red light on the Recall Kit black box was on solid, then that box was probably bad. They said go to Camping World and order a new one for free. I did and now I'm waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime, Richard suggested connecting the two 12 volt wires from that box together...basically they way it came from the factory...I did and now the fridge works fine in every situation. I asked the Norcold rep. how long the Recall Kit boxes are good for...she said some last 10 years, and some much less. I think mine had a couple of different phases of failure, as the symptoms changed a bit over time, but I'm a happy camper now that I tracked it down to the Recall Kit. IF the recall box is installed correctly, it will show LiOP when the red led light on the box comes ON. You NEVER stated that the RED LED on the recall was ON. Also, the most common cause of a failure of the recall box is if water gets into it when washing the RV and blowing water thru the refer out door. IF the recall light was ON and you got NO AC on the inside, the recall wiring is NOT installed correctly. Doug
dougrainer 09/09/21 04:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tail light issues

Okay found the fuses inside the coach. Checked each bulb socket and all have current. Only saw one fuse for daytime lights. Fuse okay If all sockets have current then you have a bad ground. Can you easily pull the light fixtures off and see what's behind them? Bingo. SWAP the Drivers side BULB to the INOP Pass side socket. IF it does NOT work but the Turn and Brake do, then the socket is bad(ground connection in the socket is bad) and you have to replace the socket. I believe you can get replacement sockets in the "help" section of auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Doug PS if the Brake and turn signal work, then the ground TO THE SOCKET assbly is there, just not to the Running light pin in the socket.
dougrainer 09/07/21 07:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1989 Fleetwood Flair parts compatibility

What other years or models would fit parts for a 1989 Fleetwood Flair? Looking for misc parts like headlights, driving lights. Also need the left awning arm and a brake booster would be awesome! 1. The Headlights are NOT specific to 1989 Fleetwood. They are standard square headlamp assbly's you get at the parts store for your year model. You probably have 4 headlamps 2 HI BEAMs and 2 LOW BEAMs. 2. Driving lights are not standard(fog lights?) and were added by a previous owner. The orange clearance lights are standard RV issued and depending on the style can be purchased at any RV parts store. 3. The Awning arms are also aftermarket and NOT supplied by Fleetwood. There should be a Brand and/or model number on the arm or awning fabric metal tube. 1989 was either Dometic or Carefree brand awning assbly and arms.Any RV parts store can possible get the replacement unless they have been discontinued for your 30 year old Awning. Both brands are still in business 4. The brake Booster is either Ford or Chevy and those can be purchased from a regular Auto parts store or Ford or Chevy 5. On all Class A motorhomes, The BOX builder has nothing to do with the complete chassis/Drivetrain. Those parts are either Chevy or Ford. Exception is the Dash AC system which IS aftermarket installed by Fleetwood. Doug
dougrainer 09/07/21 07:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tail light issues

There are 2 fuse boxes for Ford. The one outside by the engine oil fill and the one inside by the emergency brake pedal on the firewall. There is a fuse for each light. The sockets are part of the Ford wire assbly. The wire harness's GOING TO all 4 outside corner lights are FORD harness also. This is where a voltmeter or 12 volt test light comes in handy. Instead of just replacing a bulb, you make sure you have power AND ground to the bulb socket. Doug
dougrainer 09/06/21 01:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to fix Dometic Comfort Control thermostat problems

I was reading the posts of how to fix Dometic issues and wanted to chime in with my issue and if anyone had seen it or knew how to fix it. I have a 4 button dometic with two AC units. When it worked, the digital display showed all the info including the zone 1 or zone 2 that I was configuring and looking at. All of a sudden when I turned on the comfort control the zones did not show up on the display, nor did either of the AC units work. After fumbling through a few wires on the AC 1 unit, I disconnected one of the phone connector cables and the front AC unit began to work. The rear still would not work. Also after having the front AC run for a while, I noticed it was not turning off when the temp on the display (by the way the zones 1 and 2 still was not displayed) was reached. It just runs continuously. Any thoughts or ideas? I really do not want ot go buy the 10 button unit with control boards if I dont have to.. PeterY Your 4 button is over 20 years old and they dropped the 4 button due to the same issues you are having. You can either buy the 2-- 10 control boards and the 10 button or you can buy 2 -- 5 Button control boards and the 5 button. You also need to replace the 4 wire phone end plugs as a maintenance issue. Doug
dougrainer 09/05/21 09:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gas regulator issue, or Fridge?

Turn off the DC, light the stove, does the sound come back? May or may NOT. The refer uses very little LP while the Stove uses a lot. Doug
dougrainer 09/02/21 07:29am Tech Issues
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