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 > Your search for posts made by 'ewarnerusa' found 44 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Help with Lithium upgrade and inverter install. Lance 825

... I was told by some that the 206 ah SOK will not produce 1000 amps continuous power, needed for the inverter, and that two 100s will. I have had some tell me this is true, other say not. I dont know for sure and would love to have a definitive answer! maybe misplaced a zero? The 100AH Li batteries that I have looked at have a battery monitoring system that limits them to 100 A max continuous output. 2 in parallel would give you 200 A. 200A x 10V (reduced from 12V for inversion efficiency losses) = 2000 watts on the AC side. So should pair fine with your 2000 watt rated inverter plan and hopefully do OK for starting up your microwave.
ewarnerusa 01/20/23 08:38pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Help with Lithium upgrade and inverter install. Lance 825

Not sure if this is the right forum, but I am looking for help from DIYer on my upgrade. I am developing a plan to upgrade my 2022 Lance 825 with lithium battery(s), an inverter and one more solar panel. Please shoot my plan full of holes, as needed. I REALLY want to get it right... My opinion on the stuff I know >0 about: Replace LA battery with lithium - thinking two SOK 100 AH right now - comments? - That is a big expensive upgrade, but 200AH of lithium battery sounds like a sweet boondocking setup. I would even say overkill if you've been comfortably dealing with a single LA battery; however, in order to run the microwave off of inverted DC then you'll need at least this much. Install 2000 w inverter. I only need to run the microwave, not AC, occasional small appliance. I don’t think I need an inverter/charger since my Progressive Dynamics has a lithium setting. Is that so? I am considering the Renogy 2000 watt inverter. - As mentioned, I think you're at the bare minimum for wanting to run the microwave which maybe needs >1500 watts continuous load to run. But good to go for other stuff. Install the inverter as close as possible to the batteries using big fat cables. I agree about not needing an inverter/charger, but you've already set the budget very high by starting with 2x 100AH lithium batteries so why not spend more on an inverter/charger which can really add convenience to this setup? I will need to install an automatic transfer switch, unless I can find an inverter with one built in. The only ones I have found with a built in switch are inverter/chargers. (I also need help figuring out how to wire the AC from shore power to inverter and back to distribution panel). Either that or I just run a stand-along ac circuit to the microwave outlet. - See my previous comment, an inverter/charger solves this issue. As for what is in my opinion the easiest way to feed your AC system with an inverter, just plug your shore power cord into the inverter outlet. You'll need to be able to disable your converter when you do this, my converter is on its own dedicated AC breaker that I switch off when doing this. Fridge and water heater set to propane. Definitely not as slick as using a transfer switch and it requires that you dig out the shore power cord. But it's easy and also foolproof since you can't accidentally backfeed anything. Maybe add one solar panel - 100 watt or a little more - looking for a no drill option. - You'll want more than 200 watts total with 200AH of battery, assuming you want your solar to be a meaningful source of charge. Consider 300-400 watts. Drill away, it is the best way to attach them securely. I will install a Renogy combination MPPT/DC-DC charger and place it where Lance put the ACR, in place of the ACR. Thinking 30 amp. I have only an 8 awg wire from truck battery to camper now. I think I need to run a 4awg from my truck battery (200 amp alternator) to the go where the ACR is now in the camper and cant figure out how/where to get the wire into the camper and routed to the right place. Currently the Lance plug and cable has only an 8 awg incoming, but somewhere it changes to a 4 awg inside, because I see a 4 awg connected to the battery side of the ACR. Any help? - I've heard that measures must be taken to avoid burning out an alternator when using it to charge Li batteries (measures like you've just described), and also that this is overthinking it because the OEM wiring will never allow enough current to flow through it such that it strains the alternator. I am also not familiar with ACR, not a thing in my TT.
ewarnerusa 01/20/23 10:39am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Inverter install

New purchase I want to install an inverter in my 05 arctic fox 1150. I read a few different ways to do this, but I think the easiest is wire it to the battery install a 30 amp plug in the power cable box. When I want to use or run the inverter shut off the converter and plug it in, I am considering a remote selectable switch as well so I can choose shore power or inverter. My only concern is I have a generator which I would like to use to recharge the batteries. So I would have to have the inverter off I am guessing other wise it will damage it is what I have read Any flaws in my thinking, is there a way to set a buzzer to let me know the converter is still on when I turn the inverter on I know you can get smart charging inverters but that is a complicated expensive setup. This works just the sane and way cheaper Your description is how my unit is set up and used, but no need to install a 30A plug. I put a 30 to 15A dog bone adapter on my shore power cord and plug that right into the standard AC outlet on the inverter. My converter is on its own breaker in the camper's AC panel that I switch off. Fridge and water heater set on propane. Do you plug your shore power cord into the generator to use it? If so, then there's no problem. You can only plug shower power cord into one thing at a time so you won't be back feeding the inverter when on gen power. Don't forget to turn converter back on to charge batteries. If your generator is hardwired in via transfer switch, then yeah you've got to solve that problem or risk frying iinverter if your shore power cord is plugged into it.
ewarnerusa 01/10/23 07:50pm Truck Campers
RE: cheap solar panels

I've been running across quite a few cycling gear scam sites lately and this site reminds me of those. The site seems "clean" and free of spelling errors or other obvious scam language. But the prices are too good to be true. For the cycling sites, you can go to the "about us" page and look at their listed address and do a Google street view and see that the address is clearly not a sporting goods retailer. Other more savvy folks pointed out web tools that ID the site as suspicious, like they have done here. Too good to be true, they'll happily take your money and deliver no product and hope you don't bother with refund since you spent relatively little. I used paypal with a cycling scam site and got a full refund through them.
ewarnerusa 01/09/23 03:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Travel Trailer electrical, - Inverter placement/hookup

because it is simpler? The only additional thing powered would be the air conditioner. which as you said, you never run.
ewarnerusa 11/01/22 02:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Travel Trailer electrical, - Inverter placement/hookup

...The fridge/microwave plug powers something in the converter unit that makes a humming noise. I'm guessing its the battery charger but am not really sure. There are labels on the front of the converter, but they aren't correct at least on the AC side, not sure about the DC side although I know there's at least one extra fuse that has no label at all. So I should be able to disconnect the wires from 3, 4 and 5 and run them right to my inverter. Then even if by some strange weirdness we were teleported somewhere else with shore power, or I wanted to run the generator and plug the trailer into it, it would only power up the battery charger, assuming it's the 'hum' I hear. I think it would be weird that it has the converter tied to the same AC breaker as the microwave and fridge, the micro is a high draw item and usually on its own breaker. Fridge is probably 300 watt and your converter could be 500+ watts depending on make/model and how discharged your batteries are when you first plug in. That's a bunch of high draw items on one breaker. But if you hear the hum when only that breaker is on and the hum shuts off when you flip that breaker off, then your logic makes sense. You mention you don't want to do any rewiring, but then talk about rewiring 3, 4, and 5 to the inverter. A few of us have recommended what seems simpler which is installing your inverter in a location convenient enough to plug your shore power cable right into it. Then shut off your breaker 6 that has the converter (and fridge & micro if your circuit assignments are correct, which would be a good practice anyway when running off inverter). Doing this will make all outlets energized.
ewarnerusa 11/01/22 02:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Travel Trailer electrical, - Inverter placement/hookup

Could install a 30TT receptacle fed from the inverter, adjacent to the shore power cord, plug the cord into it. You must disconnect or turn off the converter... No need to install a 30 Amp outlet, just plug your shore power cable with dogbone adaptor to standard AC plug directly into the inverter. Our inverter is installed in a location where I can conveniently do this and that is what we do. Converter switched off via AC panel - I have it on its own breaker. I also switch off air conditioner and water heater on the AC panel to avoid accidentally energizing them when running on the inverter. We 100% boondock and have been running it like this for 10+ years.
ewarnerusa 10/31/22 09:24am Tech Issues
RE: Soft start/Easy start

The Micro Air is awesome, we love this upgrade. If you have a 2000-ish watt generator that is marginal for running the typical RV air conditioner, the Micro Air will save the day. In our experience anyway. I'm not sure if it has any benefit if you already have enough generator to run your air con.
ewarnerusa 09/20/22 09:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: WFCO 55 amp converter operation

I have had issues with bad connections and bad batteries in my motorhome and have them all resolved except knowing how this converter should work. It charges a new set of batteries to about 13.6V with no load. When I put a load (2 fantastic fans and a 12V TV) on the batteries the voltage slowly drops to about 12.65V and seems to stay there. If I shut the converter off it drops even further so it is doing something. When the load is shut off it takes about 20 mins for the voltage to get to 13.4V. I think over a longer period it will get to 13.6V. I have a friend who has a progressive dynamics converter and he says when he puts a load on the batteries the voltage drops from 13.3V to 13.2V and never goes lower. Do I have a bad converter or does this type just act like a trickle charger? Sounds like a bad converter or connection issue. I have the WFCO 55 in my camper and when I switch it on it immediately jumps to 13.6V. I can put all manner of minor 12V loads on it and it won't budge from 13.6V. Minor loads meaning whatever OEM 12V equipment in the camper you want - water pump, lights (all LED in my case), exhaust fans, furnace, etc. I acknowledge that my batteries are usually at a decent SOC so I'm not talking about what happens when my batteries are quite low when turning the converter on.
ewarnerusa 09/20/22 09:11am Tech Issues
RE: New to the TT world

The brand of the equipment is Mastervolt.. I priced each component and it seems expensive to me.. do you think Mastervolt brand is junk? No, I just mean that I'm not familiar.
ewarnerusa 08/30/22 07:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: New to the TT world

I didn't know RV manufacturers were selling upgraded power systems with claims of running air conditioner. Someone chimed in that the 400 ah LiPO4 battery system with 3000 watt inverter/charger and 570 watt solar were typical of mfg-supplied junk, but based on the numbers that is absolutely not true. That is a very nice sounding dry camping setup, although I can't vouch for the quality of the components. But as has been mentioned repeatedly, not enough to run your air conditioner for a usable duration. Even your caveat of only a couple hours of day will take most of your battery capacity, leaving you short on battery to operate the rest of the camper when boondocking. And then you start the next day at super low SOC on the battery with little likelihood of your solar getting enough harvest to get you up to >90% again.
ewarnerusa 08/30/22 02:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: Easy Start By Micro Air

Just another plug for the Micro air easy start, I installed it a handful of years ago and our Yamaha 2400 runs the 13.5 Btu A/C great. Usually I'm very diligent about turning off all other 120V AC loads when I do this, but this weekend I ran it for a while and later realized the fridge was on auto so it was using 120V AC power when plugged into the generator. Fridge draws 300 watts on electric and I suspect it was on the whole time because it was hot as heck out. Converter was off.
ewarnerusa 07/25/22 10:46am Tech Issues
RE: Battery and Solar woes

For reference, we have 280 watts of solar mounted fixed and flat on the roof routed to a Morningstar PWM controller charging 2x6V GC batteries in series. We only boondock and power is usually never an issue for our long weekend warrior style of camping. I'd say we are moderate power users, we run an inverter and use some gadgets but no high draw items. Occasionally a 300 watt electric rice cooker.
ewarnerusa 07/19/22 11:41am Tech Issues
RE: no power to 12 volt battery with shore power'

Nevermind, I misread the OP.
ewarnerusa 07/11/22 01:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Help pls

OP, give yourself credit - you are understanding the AC to DC conversion thing and that you need the current * voltage to provide the watts! Also the reality that while electric heat is efficient, it is not practical in a small portable battery system. I kind of went on a similar path when I first started using our camper. After installing solar and upgrading battery capacity I figured I should use it to operate a 12V heater to take the edge off at times. But I quickly abandoned it and tossed it into the bottom of the camper gadget pile. So recognize that even a 12V heater that eliminates the need for an inverter at all will still not be great if you are using the stock 12V plug in the camper. In my camper I have another 12V plug that I wired in using some relatively large wire (8 gauge I think?) and it makes a huge difference on how that little heater performs. It can run when plugged into the stock 12V plug, although it barely produces heat. When I run it plugged into my fat-wired 12V plug it puts out pretty good heat. But it isn't warming a room up. Of course it is only a 150 watt heater/DEFROSTER and defrosting a windshield sounds realistic. https://www.macys.com/shop/product/wagan-12-volt-car-heater-defroster?ID=10421642&pla_country=US&CAGPSPN=pla&cm_mmc=Connexity_PLA-_-n-_-n-_-n&m_sc=sem&m_sb=connexity&m_tp=PLA&CAWELAID=120156340009470470&m_ac=Connexity_pla&m_cn=n&cnxclid=16558304238181453857810070302008005
ewarnerusa 06/21/22 11:01am Truck Campers
RE: Disadvantages of flipping trailer axles?

It can make the last step from your stairs to the ground a big one. We use a sturdy stool on the ground to make up the difference. Other than that, no issues that we have noticed. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Adjustable-Step-Supports-Construction-43676/dp/B00G258I0G/ref=asc_df_B00G258I0G?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80608001419687&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207577681122&th=1
ewarnerusa 06/17/22 09:59am Travel Trailers
RE: Charging 6v golf cart batteries?

12.6 volt is not charging. 13.6+ is charging (IE 13.7) 12.6 is resting voltage of battery. And yet "12.6 VDC current 15 AMPS" is exactly what the OP's converter says on it. It doesn't make sense to me, I think OP needs to yank that out of there and replace it with a modern/proper converter. And read this. :-) http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
ewarnerusa 06/10/22 11:44am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood water heater drain plug tightening

I have always had to use tape to get a good seal between nylon plugs and my Atwood water heater. It seems to me like the nylon plugs would not need tape, but every season when I go over the system and don't tape the plug, water slowly leaks from the plug. Depressurize, remove, tape, reinstall plug, no leak. I've gone through a handful of plugs over the years, so it's not like it was one janky one that leaked.
ewarnerusa 06/01/22 01:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Rivan truck tow vehicle

Cool, thanks for sharing. I am very curious about EV options and I like the idea of something I could tow with. I want to see what kind of mobile solar charging options people come up with. I'm not talking about an unrealistic perpetual energy situation. But more like I'm boondocking for a few nights, can a large array on the trailer/camper recharge my electric vehicle to full during my stay?
ewarnerusa 06/01/22 01:17pm Tow Vehicles
RE: DC to AC help

Thanks! I like the simplicity of your method of simply plugging the shore power cable into the inverter, but doesn't that cause the batteries to try to charge themselves? With onboard chargers in the camper any time I have AC plugged in the charger is on. Does this cause a problem? Edit- Actually, I see you dedicated a breaker to the onboard charger so you can isolate and turn that off. Found a youtube video of this exact install. I guess the only downside is having to change the shore power cord back and forth from inverter to generator throughout the day. Thanks again You got it, converter must be off when doing it this way. I personally have my converter off by default and rely on solar. Converter would be a backup charging method which would then trigger the need to hit the switch. When we camp in summer heat, then the generator comes along for running the air conditioner. But otherwise, no swapping going on and we're plugged into the inverter for the whole stay.
ewarnerusa 05/27/22 09:57am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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