| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: RV Blind replacement in Reno, NV
Problem with blinds is nobody but the factories make them so where ever you are, they have to be special ordered and that can take a long time for them to arrive. If roller shades are OK, you might want to go directly to MCD's website, they sell direct and you will probably get them delivered faster than a local dealer. Quite easy to install. If you still have a front curtain, you will find a front roller is a huge upgrade.
|
garyemunson
|
08/24/19 06:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: replacement of catalytic converter
Probably one of these. What size pipe?
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/search/part-type/catalytic-converters/brand/walker-exhaust/product-line/walker-universal-catalytic-converters/inlet-diameter-in/3-000-in?N=inlet-diameter-in%3A3-000-in
|
garyemunson
|
08/24/19 06:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Hooking up to a well
I hope you have checked zoning to be sure you can legally live in a trailer on the lot. If you are surrounded by other trailers you are probably ok. If that lot had a well, septic, and power installed for a house, you might be out of luck.
|
garyemunson
|
08/23/19 04:17pm |
Full-time RVing
|
|
RE: Alternative to Jensen AV receiver?
I've actually had excellent luck with cheapie eBay units. Hard to believe something so inexpensive would work at all but I've used 3 so far (in two RVs and my old truck) and each one did exactly what they were advertised to do and the two I still have are still working fine, one after 3 years.. All 3 were actually different from each other..what they sell changes frequently. As cheap as they were I figured I'd roll the dice...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-8-1-Car-Stereo-GPS-Navigation-Radio-Player-Double-Din-WIFI-7/254095461800?hash=item3b29450da8:g:AS4AAOSwNXpcSw-6
|
garyemunson
|
08/23/19 05:59am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Temp blend door actuator?
You might want to clamp a heater hose shut and see if you get cold air. Sounds like an Evans with a bad water valve that won't shut.
|
garyemunson
|
08/19/19 03:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Norcold fridge not cooling
You do not need to pull the fridge to replace the fans. Standing on a ladder you can easily reach in and replace them. We camp a lot in hot weather and I did this....much better and has served us well since installed.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29770712/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm
|
garyemunson
|
08/18/19 06:49pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Is there something wrong here?
The brand of slide mechanism will help us diagnose your problem.
|
garyemunson
|
08/18/19 06:45pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Front Night Shade
I'd bet it's an MCD shade. Lots of info here. If it is, there are several clips that hold the frame to the overhead, a screwdriver pops them loose. Try to find the wiring and unplug it first.
http://mcdinnovations.com/
|
garyemunson
|
08/18/19 06:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Camping on my lot against zoning law
Very few towns will assess a fine unless the "perp" just ignores the notice of violation and continues to live there. As said above, you've already been there 5 months, I'd just lay low and if you get popped, then move.
|
garyemunson
|
08/18/19 06:39pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Norcold fridge not cooling
If the fridge is in a slide, check to see if the outside fans are running. The small fan temp sensor on the upper outside fins are known to fail. The two wires on the sensor can be connected together with a clip jumper as a temp fix until you can replace the sensor (fans will run non-stop, though).
|
garyemunson
|
08/18/19 05:49am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Possibly upgrading from TT to Class A
Best to inspect on a hot day. Slow roof and window leaks will get water inside the ceiling and walls and often do not show obvious stains. If it has that "old RV stink", it's been leaking. Wet insulation and wood is where that smell comes from. Most obvious when hot.
|
garyemunson
|
08/15/19 07:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Is the 2001 Lance 1161 ok if there is no water damage?
ANY brand used RV can have hidden water damage. If the previous owner did not keep up on roof sealing or keeping the window screws tight (and replaced the window butyl tape when needed) you can have hidden damage that is hard to find. Obvious water stains are not the whole story. Leaks can go on for years inside walls and ceilings before stains make them obvious. A hot day is the best time to inspect..if the RV has that "old RV stink" when you step inside, you can be pretty sure there is hidden moisture inside the roof and walls that has caused mold and the smell. RVs that have always been kept watertight do not stink. Wet wood and insulation is where that comes from. Can be very costly buying a used RV that has not been taken care of. A 2001 is pretty old. It's had lots of time to be neglected by previous owners.
|
garyemunson
|
08/15/19 07:30am |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Atwood Water Heater Tank Crack Repair ? UPDATE
A frozen tank is shot. Get a replacement. Hard to see a crack that didn't quite go through but will fail soon when you start using it again. Buy a new tank.
|
garyemunson
|
08/04/19 05:39pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Slide mechanism and motor
Also depends on whether the owner bothers to do any maintenance.
|
garyemunson
|
07/27/19 04:37am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Converter noise
You might want to turn it off, stick something small in to block the fan and turn it back on. If you still hear a squeal with the fan immobilized, it's probably a noisy, failing capacitor in the electronics section. They do that when the electrolyte paste inside dries out over time. While they can be repaired, usually by the time components start going bad it's better just to replace the converter with a new one considering the cost of the part and the labor of getting it changed. Another electronic device that prices have stayed pretty stable over the years and now seem pretty reasonable. If it is the fan, usually the little "computer type" fans have a foil name sticker on one side of the hub. Peel it off and you will find a small rubber disk that closes off the bearing cavity. Pick it out with a needle, put in some 3-IN-One oil (WD-40 dries back out too quickly), replace the rubber, and you should be good to go!
|
garyemunson
|
07/15/19 05:07am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
Rear Camera Intercom
Pretty much all the old "picture tube" display rear RV cameras had a microphone on the camera so you could hear your rear spotter giving directions (usually all you need is to hear them, they don't need your input). Was much more convenient than having to juggle a walkie talkie as you are trying to back up your rig. I have not seen any newer RV camera systems with that feature. Has anyone come up with a mike and small amp that accomplishes this simple task?
|
garyemunson
|
06/10/19 10:02am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: satelte entena
Have had satellite in our RVs for years. At first, having bought an RV with a manual, rooftop dish, I though "having a 'loose' antenna I can move around the campsite would be better so I can dodge trees". After several years of that, with the next RV, I finally went up and mounted it to the roof. I found it was a wash, either dodging trees above or bushes on the ground. Having it permanently mounted was one less thing to deal with setting up and breaking camp. Sat is so common now, RV parks are quite hip to placing you at a sat friendly site if you just ask when you reserve/arrive. I've never had an issue with the handle not pointing north. Dishes I've had were always able to lock onto a sat. We've always just used our small sat box in both our house and RV. We never use the DVR functions of the bigger boxes so just one works for us.
|
garyemunson
|
06/10/19 05:33am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser
If you always camp in RV parks with hookups, you'll never notice a difference using a residential (wait, your ice cream will always be hard!). If you occasionaly bookdock or get caught some night without reservations and no capmground within 100 miles, gas is still king.
|
garyemunson
|
06/09/19 12:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: House Battery Maintenance
Next time, get 2 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco or Sam's Club and wire them in series. Same price as 12 volts, but, with maintanence, will last much longer. You can get the battery watering kits that will let you keep them full with a couple pumps on a squeeze bulb so you never have to open the caps. The golf cart batteries are the most bang for the buck and are true deep cycle, unlike a lot of the RV/boat batteries out there. If they will be "unattended" for 3 months, just fully charge and do not put a trickle charger on them. Last thing you want to happen is for them to boil dry over 3 months. Sitting unused for that length of time is tough on any battery but that will make the best of it.
|
garyemunson
|
06/04/19 08:40am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch
Over the decades I've had to replace 2 cooling units. Both were in RVs I bought used so I suspect they were not operated correctly in the past. Since I've done them myself (pretty easy as they were older, smaller fridges), it was far cheaper than replacing the entire fridge. At this point, you should take stock of how you use your RV. If you always go to RV parks wth hookups (nothing wrong with that, lots of people prefer the comforts provided!) it's time to switch to a residential type fridge. Cheaper than repairing yours even if you do all the work yourself. If you boondock at all or go to state/national campgrounds without hookups, gas fridges are still king. Switching to a residential in those cases usually involves more batteries and an inverter upgrade so you end up spending the same or more. As said above, operating out of level can make fridges run hotter outside increasing the risk of springing a leak from the repeated flexing of the steel from the greater temperature swings. You don't have to be spot on level, what happens occurs on a "sliding scale", the more out of level, the hotter the coils run. Just do your best to get the coach not too far off level and you will be OK. I've seen the obsessed using a 3' level feverishly adding/subtracting blocks to get their rig perfect. Not necessary. Also, if you live in a humid climate, leaving the RV plugged in and the fridge on electric will keep the outside coils hot and lessen chance of them rusting out at one of their welds.
https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Cooling-Units-remanufactured-C4380.aspx?sid=298
|
garyemunson
|
06/04/19 05:03am |
Tech Issues
|
