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 > Your search for posts made by 'jeromep' found 55 matches.

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RE: Engine idle surges up and down when stopping at lights

Thank you for the information and great advise. I will call around and ask if anyone has this test equipment. I hope I didn't send you on a wild goose chase. I might also add, you want to deal with a shop which does a fair amount of vehicle mechanical work on RVs and has the heavy lift capability to put 10 tons of weight into the air. If the shops you are dealing with don't have this, I'd be locating a different one. In reality, when you take an RV to a mechanic, they need to have the skills and background to deal with large, heavy vehicles. Think of it like this, your Class A and C are less like a regular vehicle and more like a UPS truck; they need to be worked on by a shop that knows that kind of stuff.
jeromep 04/26/21 12:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New again, remind me

Avoid any post-2007 diesel. This is part of what I was looking for. But why? What are we avoiding here? That photo of your old Diplomat looks really good. Photos can be deceiving, but looks like you took good care of it. I'm just guessing, but it could be related to the need to fill the rig up with DEF, in addition to fuel? Also could deal with emissions equipment that those diesels require, maybe in addition to the DEF? My problem is I'm not sure when the DEF stuff became normal on diesels.
jeromep 04/24/21 10:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine idle surges up and down when stopping at lights

I have a 97 ford 460 that has an idle surge and sometimes stalls when stoppingat traffic signals or signs. The mechanics has replaced the throttle positioning sensor and the idle air control and cleaned the fuel system. The idle rpm's still surges.there are no codes. Any help is appreciated I think you need to find a different mechanic. They are just throwing replacement parts at the problem, they don't really know what is happening. If they knew what was happening they would have already fixed it. I really don't like it when mechanics throw parts at a problem and you pay for their experiment. I don't know what the issue is either, but my advice costs you nothing and if I were in your position I'd be more than just a little annoyed at paying for something to not be fixed. But I do know this, 97 was the last year of the 460 on a vehicle chassis. For MY 1998, the V-10 was introduced and a totally new era of computer control was introduced. The 460 was never built in an OBD or OBDII equipped vehicle, therefore getting codes out of it for diagnostics requires much older hardware. They are technically Ford EECIV (Electronic Engine Control 4), vehicles. Ford used EECIV in just about everything from like 1982 all the way till the OBD era. EECIV had numerous changes and variations over all those years and the computer unit was basically entirely different from vehicle to vehicle. My guess is that only a Ford dealer, or a very well equipped independent shop, will have the proper equipment, probably sitting in a corner or on a shelf, to get the codes and information that might lead to a direct fix. If you can find a dealer or mechanic with a Ford SBDS (Service Bay Diagnostic System) with the 168-pin connector, which is probably what your 460 has to connect to the onboard systems, they might be able to find out what is occurring, assuming that the on board sensors are able to identify an issue. My point is that if you have a mechanic that is throwing parts at the problem, they don't have the right equipment to complete a diagnostic.
jeromep 04/24/21 10:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: lock/latch for rear compartment door - need source

Have you checked with your local, independent RV dealer or service center? A lot of the smaller, family owned, shops have drawers, racks, and cabinets full of parts for older RVs and applications. A lot of these places scavenge old rigs for parts, strip good parts off from broken objects and store them for later use.
jeromep 04/24/21 09:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Child safety seats

I am a parent of a 5yo who is beginning to enjoy RVing. We do not try to put any kind of child seat or booster in the RV. The seat belts in the living area are just not correct for use with any child restraint. The barrel chair behind the front passenger has a retracting lap belt, but it is in a strange position and won't work with anything but a no-back booster, there is no real point there. The seat belts in the couch and the dinette are the non-retracting long strap type which have to be pulled tight and again won't work with anything, except maybe a no-back booster. The point of a booster is to bring the child up to a height in which the shoulder belt will go across their body at a proper point. Since none of these seating positions have a shoulder strap, the booster is unnecessary. As pigman1 said, the point of the seat belts in the house are concerned is to keep the occupants from being projectiles in a collision or an unexpected maneuver. None of the seats or seating positions are structurally sufficient enough to provide occupant protection as you would have in a vehicle car seat. This doesn't mean it is unsafe, just that seat belts and restraints are not as useful or beneficial and the type of benefit they provide is different.
jeromep 03/10/21 06:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: First Time RV Buyer

Buying an older class A (or C) is not for the weak of heart or budget. The "quality" of one brand or another has to be determined inside the era they were built in, and the original market they were targeted to has to be considered, also. Aside from brands and manufacturers building to a price and a market, which a bit of poking around and asking the right questions can answer; when you buy an older RV you need to be looking at overall vehicle condition, mileage, vehicle service records, vehicle completeness, and past owner "upgrades" and modifications. Also consider this, by the time you buy a 20+ year old RV, any of the build quality issues a rig may have had, have probably been addressed by previous owners. Buyers of brand new RVs not only take the depreciation hit, especially if they trade off the rig after a few short years, but they are also the ones that go through all of the shake down activities which most new RVs inevitably go through during their first few years of use. I think it highly unlikely that you'll find a bone stock used RV of any class that is over 5 years old. Because an RV is a rolling home, people do things to them like they are a home. The used unit I purchased last year certainly did have some prior owner customization, some of these changes were good, some not very well thought out. I also discovered a lot of deferred chassis maintenance which also falls into the category "what does the previous owner care about" As you get used to your new-used RV you learn what the previous owner cared about, because that will be the stuff you see having been addressed by them as the vehicle got older, and you'll encounter the stuff that needs to be fixed or maintained, and this was something they either didn't care about or weren't paying much attention to. In my case the previous owner had done a good job of maintaining the house. Cabinetry and upholstery was in excellent condition. Plumbing was good, along with having a new kitchen faucet, new water pump, and all the bits and pieces of the house were in good working order. On the other hand, while the chassis looked good and mileage was pretty low for the rig's age, there was a lot of delayed chassis maintenance, including a desperate need for new brakes, plus a bunch of stuff under the hood that started to fail as we started to put some serious road miles on the rig. Think radiator leaks, old hoses and tubing that were checked and starting to ooze and leak, and don't get me started on marker lights which were just totally worn out. Try to get the backstory about the rig from the seller. If nothing else, when your new-to-you rig has maintenance needs, at least you might be able to correlate it to the story of the life the rig had before you purchased it. In my case, the previous owner was the second owner, he purchased the vehicle when it was about 6 years old and had about 30k on it. The first owner was a real road warrior and put a lot of miles on it in a short period of time. The second owner was a weekend warrior and the miles it accumulated in his possession, close to 20 years, were to and from home and nearby camping and outdoors stuff. It never really went on long trips with the second owner. This partly explains the deferred maintenance as the second owner wasn't driving far enough with it to really be bothered by stuff that might have been degrading on him, like brakes and hoses. He just kept the liquids topped off and went out on the weekends and had fun. Anyway, this is a long ramble, but I think it kind of addresses your question, by saying, the prior reputation of a manufacturer may not be all that important when buying a used rig if your inspection of the used rig, or the inspection of an "expert" you bring in, shows that the rig is decent enough and worth what the seller is asking. Oh, and be prepared to do some maintenance no matter how great the RV may be.
jeromep 03/10/21 06:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane Delivery to RV

Sorry for bumping the thread, but I want to say that I had a great experience with Amerigas. The situation wasn't similar to one the OP's friends were, but when I needed propane for my RV, I addressed the AmeriGas customer service. They provided excellent service and delivered the propane fast. In terms of sales and service AmeriGas, where I live, is really one of the best. They have some of the nicest staff and are incredibly responsive to individual needs. They cost a bit more to use, but they also seem the most accommodating. I can purchase propane from other sellers for less, but I usually have to work with their schedule or go to them to get that better price. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
jeromep 03/10/21 04:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need an Education

Wow the big rigs certainly have more to know than 5th wheels or travel trailers. Thanks for the info. I keep looking at all them and are amazed how many there are. Other than the gorgeous paint jobs, the one word that always comes to mind in capital letters is BIG. To me they are just big. Which when in it would be wonderful but I am a panic pulling a small trailer, I think I'd be a mess on the road with one of those. I'm jealous of you all who can drive them so easily. Depending on if you are driving a DP or a gasser (rear axle placement has an effect on handling), you get used to things like tail swing, turning radius, and having a "sense" of where your rear end is when backing up or in tight quarters. Cameras help a lot, and new rigs have lots of them. Older ones are lucky to have a rear camera. The folks driving the big ones do a lot of route planning. When you are that big you don't drive anywhere without a plan. And you gain a certain amount of realistic expectation in terms of the amount of ground you can cover in a day and where you can actually camp vs. where you would ideally like to camp.
jeromep 02/01/21 01:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Annual maintenance

I have been changing the oil and fuel filters for the engine and generator once a year. Our mh gets about 2000 miles per year and other than camping, it stays in a climate controlled shop. Recently, I have had several people tell me that my maintenance schedule is too frequent. I plan on maintaining it since I do the maintenance myself. I was just wondering when other do their maintenance? Also, do you change antifreeze based on time, mileage or analysis? I think your activity is reasonable. Oil changes at 3000 miles is a very old standard, but considered quite reasonable 20+ years ago because lubricants weren't nearly as sophisticated as they are today. In most automotive circles, if you are using good lubricants oil changes every 5000 is sufficient. Likewise, on something like an RV where you have a period of regular use followed by a layup period, doing seasonal maintenance makes a lot of sense. Fuel filters might be a bit of overkill. I think you wouldn't notice any change one way or the other if you didn't mess with the fuel filters that often... however, if you are a DP, I'm not super qualified to speak, but unlike gasoline, diesel fuel does suffer greatly from possible contamination and water in the fuel that gasoline doesn't suffer from as much. So changing out diesel fuel filters on a yearly basis may have some benefit. Coolant these days is also pretty advanced. I would think that a mileage based replacement cycle on coolant would be sufficiently fine. You could also do coolant changes based on time, but that time frame between changes would be based on years, not seasonally.
jeromep 01/30/21 10:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replace TV

Just be sure that you can hear the TV when it is mounted, especially if the TV speakers are open to the back, and you mount the TV in a cabinet with only the face visible. That is good advice. Most flat screens have rear mounted or down firing speakers. Some fire "through" the screen, some fire down and forward, usually at the bottom edge of the screen. One thing I've noticed is that flat screens retrofitted into old tube TV installations in older RVs do have a bit of an audio problem due to how the speakers work in these new TVs. It is almost as if we have to surface mount the new TVs to really get great audio performance. My rig is older and the previous owner did a really nice job of mounting a flat screen in the front TV enclosure, even tried to accommodate the audio issue presented by putting the TV in the enclosure, but it still requires the volume to be way up to enjoy the audio, and it still sounds tinny. On the other hand I'm working on replacing the tube tv in the back bedroom and have already determined that I'll "plug" up the hole that the current TV sits in with a finished wood panel, and then mount the bracket to that panel, and the new TV will be surface mounted to that bracket. I'll put a hidden hole and grommet in the panel and all the wiring will go back to the original outelts (12v and 120v) and coax port.
jeromep 01/30/21 10:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replace TV

This is the type of mount I was thinking of for a bedroom application I'm looking to retofit a new flat screen in place of the old tube tv that is back there. Locking TV mount
jeromep 01/28/21 10:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need an Education

I have an older Class A gasser and to be honest I don't try to idle long with it, however if I'm getting set up, I need the engine on to run my jacks. Once I'm level I'll shut it down. When getting ready to leave, it kind of depends on the time of year. In the summer I will pretty much fold everything up and disconnect with the engine off and only start up when I'm ready to pull up my jacks and head out. In the fall/winter or a really cold morning where I have to get going early, I'll start the engine a bit earlier to get a little bit of a warm up and get some dash heat going, but again, not more than 5 minutes of idling. Also note, I drop my jacks onto pads, so I have some in and out of the rig while the engine is running to set my jacks, and when I get ready to go, there is in and out again for the purpose of retrieving my pads. All of this while idling. DPs have many more considerations, they are quite a bit more complex than a gasser, and diesels have different needs, notably air systems have to be charged up, exhaust and turbo temps are something that have to be considered, too, especially at shut down. Also, diesels run better when warm. Starting a diesel and driving away with it bone cold is generally not advisable unless you have no other choice and just have to go right now. I think there are some out there that are excessive idlers, but everyone has their reasons and maybe we won't agree with it, but we can't change it either. Sorry to hear you are leaving the road, but everything has a time and place. Best wishes on settling down.
jeromep 01/28/21 09:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replace TV

You'll want to find locking, articulated mounts. These are often designed specifically for RV use. You'll be able to identify these because they usually have some kind of pull chain that releases the articulating arm from a folded and locked position and when you fold up the mount and TV, you'll notice a distinctive click as the mount locks closed and holds the TV tight against the wall or space it is mounted. I've seen numerous ones on Amazon, but also at RV parts dealers and even CW.
jeromep 01/28/21 09:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A

I have drilled a few hundred holes in semi frames mounting axles/equipment and I can't imagine using battery tools! We used a 1/2" drill with a "D" handle AND put a chain around the frame through the "D" in a loupe. With chain tight you rotate the drill which forces the drill into the hole. In your case you might try a rope around the frame and drill to get more force. You also must use slow speed with lub. I've done a few holes in frames also. Had to get an electric 1/2" chuck drill with a side handle (not a "D" handle, but similar concept), plus the correct bits and lube. The electric drill with the right bits really makes all the difference. I don't think there are too many battery powered tools that will do what you are trying to do.
jeromep 01/18/21 07:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roadside assistance

I never have used GS in the many years I've been a member. But today I couldn't get my tow vehicle started so I called to schedule a tow for January 7th, 2021 which is the soonest my garage can squeeze me in. The recorded message had me to go thru a series of questions.. punching numbers/letters as what I needed, what type vehicle, yada, yada so I did and added a note that I want to schedule a tow for January 7th. Shortly later I get a text to call 800-xxx-xxxx and use my phone number as reference which I called. That call then transfer me to dispatch..HUH?? So I explain that I need a tow for January 7th but was told they can't schedule that far out and to call on Sunday to schedule. "Okay, I'll call Sunday" says I. Shortly after I get a call asking what type vehicle and when and where do I want the tow. HUH again??? I explained again that I need a tow..."Oh never mind" I said, "I don't need a tow". End of conversation but wait...I get a text asking if I still need a tow and what type of vehicle. I didn't reply and now have a head ache. Why not just have the tow done now and leave the car with your mechanic or ask for the tow to be completed the night before it is needed at the mechanic? I can understand why they can't schedule a tow way out, they are roadside assistance, their job is to send help immediately, or get your vehicle someplace that can fix it, also immediately.
jeromep 01/06/21 10:34am General RVing Issues
RE: low coolant / add water?

Perhaps one of you could help me understand if someone has mixed the yellow and green. If so, I should replace. I can see green on the top of the gold. Probably not a huge problem. It isn't fair to say coolant is coolant, but in a pinch, if you have a need to keep the system full between services (this means you have a leak) or if you are on the road and need to top off, mixing is probably not the worst thing to do, so long as you get cooling system maintenance done when it is convenient. Ideally a good shop will know the proper coolant to put in after a repair or flush.
jeromep 12/31/20 11:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: low coolant / add water?

I found this link to a coolant type chart at Ford Parts. 2003 looks like the year that Ford switched from green coolant to yellow/gold coolant. https://parts.ford.com/content/dam/ford-parts/resources/motorcraftpdf/Antifreeze_Coolant_Usage_Chart.pdf Click here. Has your rig had a coolant flush in the past? If so, the shop that did the flush may have not put the correct coolant back in. Maybe, maybe not. If you look at the chart you will notice that there were still some vehicles that were using the green coolant about midway through the manufacturing year of 2003, but it looks like Ford made the decision to move to yellow coolant across the entire product line. I doubt there were any mechanical changes done to accommodate for this. That would indicate some interchangeability between the coolant types, but as others have indicated the yellow has a longer lifespan than the green. I would not mix green and yellow. If you felt like changing back to yellow, then fix your leak, flush your entire system, then refill with yellow.
jeromep 12/30/20 02:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Questions About People's Knowledge Of Various Issues

The space between knowledge and opinion is very narrow. You will get a lot of opinion here, but most of it comes from knowledge acquired from experience. Difference experiences lead to different knowledge and thus different opinions. Engine philosophy between GM and Ford is very different. Ford doesn't like large displacement engines to be all wrapped up at high RPMs to deliver torque and horsepower. Although this might be changing with the new Godzilla V-8. If you dig around you'll find that Ford engines develop most of their torque at lower RPMs so you don't need to wrap the engine up and have it screaming to be performing. GM seems to take the opposite route with a torque curve which generally means that you get all of your torque and power well above 3000 RPM, which is a lot of revs for a large displacement engine. And the 8.1 reaches peak HP well over 4000. Plus, it is very thirsty, I think more so than the V-10. The V-10, especially the later ones are very reliable. The blowing spark plug issue was something that happened on the early ones, and if you find yourself a 1997-2001 V-10 with some miles on it, it has either had the issue and got it fixed or had it corrected before a failure and is unlikely to give you any problems. If you are going to buy a used motorhome you will have to do some work to rehab it a bit and make it your own. If you are fortunate you can find a seller which has kept it garaged, carported, or bagged during the winter and kept up on most of the basic maintenance activities. Delam happens when there is a water issue or leakage which isn't caught early and dealt with. I recommend not buying a unit which has extensive visible delam, so go over anything you are thinking about buying with a fine tooth comb. The older the unit the more likely you can find delam, even delam which isn't so much water related, but age related. Delam is a reality as hardware gets older. If a unit has been garaged in climate controlled places, delam is rare, but finding a motorhome which has been garaged its whole life is really difficult. Try to find a used unit in which the previous owner has great documentation of their maintenance and upgrades. This is generally a good sign of a unit which should support you well in the future. Also note, that with a travel trailer your maintenance has been limited to "house stuff". The moment you buy a motorhome you have "house stuff" and "chassis stuff", and some of it blends together. And also keep in mind that you are buying a heavy duty truck, whether Class C or A. So, when you have to do maintenance you will have quite a bit of added expense, and you will need to have a mechanic which can work on heavy rigs. Not all mechanics can lift 15,000-20,000 lbs., not even dealers. This is why a lot of folks do buy a truck and have a trailer, because the truck can be used year round and fairly easily maintained and eventually replaced. I don't know too many people that have truck/trailer combinations in which the truck isn't a daily driver. Getting a Class A without slides after about 1997 is a little rare, and you have found the few that didn't offer slides. Tiffin's are great, and probably the best of the three brands you have shared. But, if you are avoiding the slide out because you are concerned about the maintenance or the condition of a nearly 20 year old slide, that is understandable, but also shouldn't be a deal breaker. Again, just like delam, look over your used prospect, make sure to exercise the slide a number of times before you buy it, and you might want to get a second opinion from a reputable RV maintenance shop, or at least have them "tune it up" after your purchase, before you go on a longer trip. If the owner won't let you exercise the slide a number of times before you buy, that is a red flag. Take somebody along to watch and listen to the slide on the outside and get their feedback. Did it move smoothly in and out and not appear to be hanging up on anything? Did the motors sound "normal" or did they seem mechanically strained? Look at the roof of the slide out, what condition is it in? Is it dirty or is the membrane in need of maintenance? To be honest, prior to slides, manufacturers typically made units longer to provide more living space, storage space and features. If you were to look in the mid to late 90s, you'll find a lot of Class As with no slides, but to make space they tend to be longer, 35-40 ft. Storage and access to storage cubbies and basements is going to be different between class A and C. I like As better because their basement storage access is generally through full sized doors. I haven't met an A built in the last 20-25 years or more which doesn't have really great basement storage and access to it. As also tend to have wet bays or service bays for all of your hookups and sewer dump. These bays are all inboard and protected from road debris and generally insulated from extreme temperatures, and often have heating ductwork to help prevent freezing. My guess is that your mini-van/tent trailer combination have worked out well for you because you had plenty of room in the van for all your gear. Be sure to visualize in some way all the gear you take with you in the van and determine if the motorhome you eventually buy will fit it all. Again, I think Class As will be better equipped to handle all of your gear over a Class C. Class Cs vary in terms of how their hookups are handled, but most have road exposed sewer dumps, small access ports for fresh water and electrical. Convenience and consolidation mean a lot to me, so I really value a single service compartment over having a lot of small nooks and crannies to do various stuff or service hookups. Whatever you move into, it is going to take some getting used to considering your old way of RVing and it certainly won't be the same as what you have been doing. Happy trails.
jeromep 12/27/20 12:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane Delivery to RV

I'm not located in your region, but contacting the local office of Amerigas or Ferrellgas might be useful. These organizations all do propane delivery to home and business permanent tanks. I can't see much difference between them filling a tank at somebody's home and filling a tank on an RV or a larger tank at a RV site. I could be wrong, but just a thought.
jeromep 12/19/20 02:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Warm weather traveling

After traveling in a 35 foot fiver for many years, we have now started looking at class A gassers. We like to travel out west and southern locations. My question...Do you need to run the roof a/c's while driving to keep the rv cool? If so, doesn't this mean running the genny and killing an already challenged gas mileage? May sound like a dumb question... Thanks I find the impact of running the generator to run the roof A/Cs while cruising pretty minimal. Gas class As are not known for their efficiency, so running the genset while underway isn't going to make or break you at the pump. I'm fortunate, the dash air on my rig is very good and will keep the front two passengers pretty comfortable even without the roof air running, and maybe two folks sitting on the couch or the captain's chair just behind the front passenger pretty comfortable. I find that running one or both of my two MaxxAirs in exhaust mode while underway keeps warm air from building up in the rear of my rig. My bathroom door tends to close while we are going, so keeping the MaxxAir going in the bathroom and the MaxxAir in the kitchen running pulls sufficient air through the rig that nothing really gets too hot, even without the roof airs going.
jeromep 12/19/20 02:43pm Class A Motorhomes
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