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 > Your search for posts made by 'jeromep' found 19 matches.

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RE: 1995 Bounder 34J capacities

Have you looked on the kitchen doors? There is usually a sticker with capacities stated. There is such a document glued to the closet doors in the bathroom, but it is focused on GVWR, axle capacities. The only thing mounted to a kitchen cabinet door is trash basket hanging on the door under the sink. I may grab a photo of the document I have and attach it to the thread. Either that or I'll be proven a fool for not looking closer.
jeromep 04/01/22 11:23pm Class A Motorhomes
1995 Bounder 34J capacities

I've really tried hard to do a bunch of web searches for the tank capacities of a 1995 Bounder 34J, but can't find a reliable source. I'm most interested in getting capacities for my black and gray tanks. For some reason I think my fresh tank is 100 gallons. I remember reading that someplace, maybe that white vehicle weight sheet glued to the closet door in the bathroom. However, when I use my Orbit (or Save-a-Drop), inline water meter to track how much water is going into that tank, the tank goes into "overflow" at about 75-80 gallons and I have to shut off my water. So, I either have an inaccurate in-line water meter or my fresh tank is not 100 gallons. Can anyone provide any insight, or maybe a reliable web site that has accurate specs and capacities?
jeromep 04/01/22 06:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sink needs sealing

I think a better project would be to remove the entire countertop and replace with something that is solid surface. You'll use the existing countertop as a template for the solid surface replacement. When you are done you'll have something that looks great, is impervious to water and you can remount the undermount sink and use this as an occasion to replace what is probably a less than stellar kitchen faucet with something nicer looking and with better utility. It will be a bit of work, but you probably won't deal with this again.
jeromep 03/15/22 09:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class A fleetwood discovery - should we purchase ??

This one has been treated pretty badly. Definitely ridden hard and put away wet. The body scratches wouldn't end the deal for me. A small amount of delam wouldn't scare me away from something that is properly priced, but if there is a lot more delam, no go. The electrical and mechanical issues are more concerning than the body damage. Those could be pretty expensive to resolve, if you can actually get them resolved. No postings about the roof. You need to get that looked at. Like others have said, better units at comparable cost that are much more turnkey than this one. The sellers are going to be sitting on this one for a while unless they do one of two things, lower the price by a lot, probably half, or put the money into it to rehab it for sale. I hope you can eventually find a Class A you like, that is in acceptable condition that you can afford. Keep looking, you'll find one.
jeromep 03/15/22 09:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: cruise control 2004 winnebago

my cruise control servo is bad. ford part # 1L3U9C734 AA. is there any other servos that i can use. from looking at the wiring diagrams and the steering wheel switch resistance. they match up with other ford servos but with different part # s . so what is the difference. can anyone tell me. thanks darrell Admittedly, I'm confused as to why you are looking for a work around replacement part for the problem? Your chassis is a "modern" one, so 2004, would be a V10 and would be an OBDII based engine control system. In this era everything is pretty much component replacement. If it were me I'd just head to my closest Ford dealer parts department and ask for that part number, they will look it up, if Ford has replaced that part with a different unit it will be cross referenced and they will order the cross-referenced replacement. Sure, it might cost a bit as it is a manufacturer part and not an OEM, but it will be a like-for-like replacement, especially in terms of the wiring harness.
jeromep 03/07/22 02:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: inverter/charger

Typically, coaches have a relay which closes a circuit when the engine is on that allows the vehicle alternator to trickle charge the house batteries. Once the vehicle is turned off, that relay opens and the vehicle electrical system is isolated from the house electrical system. In this structure you'll have an emergency start or auxiliary start button on your dash. That button closes a relay which allows the vehicle to start from your house batteries. The idea is that if you have been parked for some time, maybe you have had shore power or maybe you have run your generator, but your house batteries are full, you can start your rig with house batteries and get going. This is the historical way most coach builders have provided for any interconnection between house electrical and engine electrical. Ideally you want the two systems to be separate from each other. Unless a previous owner has modified this electrical structure, you should assume that your chassis battery is not connected to the house charging system except for the situations I detailed above. The Trick-L-Start would resolve this limitation for you.
jeromep 03/07/22 02:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best Class A fire extinguisher

Was looking at a Video on youtube posted by Andrew Steele, where his new to him used Newell burned up really fast. Very unfortunate for him and his girlfriend, since she had all her belongings in the RV. It got me to thinking that I should replace my 15 year old extinguisher (really dummy), yes really. So what do you guys have and how many ? Thanks Be sure to look at refilling or servicing your fire extinguisher at a local fire sprinkler and fire equipment dealer. Most quality extinguishers are built to be inspected, serviced, and refilled. The really small "kitchen" extinguishers are throw away, but most others are serviceable. The ones in my RV are all serviceable. Waste not want not. In reality, the issue Andrew Steele had couldn't be fixed with a fire extinguisher. He would have had to have been direct witness to the fire starting and had the extinguisher in hand to even have a chance. I suspect the fire was related to the generator. I believe he had his generator on while going down the road (yes, very normal activity, I do this myself), and something got hot and started combustion of something under the chassis. I'm speculating. In reality a Fire Ball mounted in engine compartments or other hazardous areas would be much more effective than hand carried fire extinguishers. https://www.elidefireus.com/
jeromep 03/07/22 01:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thetford

Hey folks, we just came we just came home yesterday with our used Class A Winnebago Destination 37G. In the water utility compartment there is a black box with the word "Thetford"on it. There is a 3in sewer hose attached to the box with a smaller hose from the box to a fitting on the end of the sewer hose.The box is wired 12V. I am try to find info on this device, Thetford search just brought up the toilets and how to repair them. Sounds like a built-in Thetford Sani-con Turbo. Maybe an aftermarket retrofit that connects to the black tank via normal bayonet fittings. As others have pointed out, this is a maceration system. Is it in a carry case? If so, it is the Sani-Con Turbo 300. If it is bolted into the bay or otherwise made to be built-in or semi-built in it could be any number of other model numbers. The Thetford system, as you have noticed, has a small hose already attached on the output end with a special output cap which would screw down to a threaded sewer port. That small hose is pretty long, too. It is an elegant system, but I can imagine any number of dumping situations where this would not work particularly well. Notably, dumping at highway rest stops and many municipal treatment plant dump stations. I haven't encountered any dump stations at Washington State rest areas which have threaded sewer pipes, they are all the flip cap ports with no threading. Same goes for most of the state parks we frequent, including full hook-up sites. So you would have to wedge and weigh down the output cap to keep everything contained and going in the right hole. Flowjet also offers a portable maceration pump. It is a "roll your own" kind of system. It has bayonet fittings on the input side, so a simple twist on to your sewer hose connection, then you are responsible for supplying a garden hose to the output end. Plus there is a garden hose hookup for back flush. I think they indicate that the longest hose you can use for output is 100 ft. This is ideal if you are moochdocking and dumping your tanks into a friend's outdoor sewer clean out. Theoretically you can dump into a toilet or any other reasonable sewer access, but it does require that somebody monitors the output end while somebody else runs the pump and monitors activity at the tanks. On top of that the Flowjet system has raw DC wire ends, so you have to determine how you are going to provide power to it. I've seen folks put alligator clips on the leads and connection to a small 12v battery. Others graft on a cigarette lighter power end and find a source of power that way. Others figure out a way to tap into 12v power in their wet bay. Either way the Flowjet requires planning and effort to make work. I hope this helps.
jeromep 03/07/22 01:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford Chassis

Might be a stupid question. If my chassis in my class A is Ford, would my windshield arms be also Ford? One broke today on my way to Florida, now I’m in a Cracker Barrel for the night. Thanks Unlikely. Unless the part was bolted to the frame at the factory, the part is from whatever supplier Winnebago was using when they built the coach. Most auto parts have part numbers and markings on them to identify the maker. If you remove the broken wiper arm and look for markings, Google search against those and you may find what you are looking for. Assuming that the part number or markings are in somebody's database out there, and the database is public to the Internet, you'll get a hit and find out where you can get a replacement. Most auto supply stores are going to be useless because they will do lookups by VIN and they will either not get any hits on your vehicle, or all the suggested parts will be entirely wrong.
jeromep 03/07/22 01:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which old motorhome to buy

There was a time when I thought an old bus would be just the thing for traveling. Then I realized that a tire for a bus might cost $500 if you can find one. Then I realized not every auto parts store has parts for a 1958 Bluebird. Old motor homes lose value quickly. I would find a late model unit like 2000 or newer if possible. Good point. Anyone familiar with the RVMiles Podcast? The family that started that became full time RVers in a converted schoolie, and not a terribly old one. They got rid of the schoolie, that they built themselves, BTW, and have moved into a trailer and used medium-duty pickup, and now onto a fifth wheel and heavy duty pickup. The point here is that the schoolie was becoming a maintenance nightmare for them. There is a big difference, too, between most old buses that are built into a Class A and the chassis for a vehicle that started its life as a Class A. They sold off the schoolie to RVers that were not going to put on as many miles as these folks were doing. The bus, while fairly late model, had a lot of miles on it when they got it, and it just gets worse from there. I've always found it odd that the vanlife and schoolie folks seem to ignore that they are taking a used chassis, one which may have been maintained well, but still has the underlying miles on it, and they are then adding a lot of weight, much more weight than they are probably removing as they gut the rig, and then using the rig as a "daily driver" and planning on crossing long distances on a regular basis. This is not a recipe for success.
jeromep 12/17/21 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air-conditioner availability

One final note: As my RV tech says Colemans Suck, others blow What this means is that the Coleman sucks air in through the condenser and blows it out the sides.. Others do it the other way around blowing air through the condenser. Why is this important. Cleaning coleman.. Remove 4 bolts, lift lid, peal crud off condenser, Replace lid (Cowel) and 4 screws.. Finished. Others Remove outer cover (Cowel) often 10-12 screws Remove INNER cover (Not always easy) If you have large hands remove fan Now you can clean the condenser. I knew there was a reason I liked the Colman units better than the others. This is a very logical way to make a packaged A/C, whether it RV rooftop or any other configuration.
jeromep 12/17/21 08:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: zero G water hose

I have a Zero G as a utility house for use around the house and not for drinking water and think it is great. I was surprised at the customer comments that were on the item listed at the Camping World web site, it was like they were talking about some other product. The only thing I would recommend, but this applies to any RVer, is to make sure you have a quality water pressure regulator at the top end of your fresh water setup and keep your water pressure in the 30-40psi range.
jeromep 11/02/21 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gasser guys and gals ...why not a diesel ?

So going down the engine upgrade, I seem to remember back in the late 1970's or early 1980's some company in Detroit took a Dodge 440 and punched is 60 over, stroked it 1/2 inch, and came up with 511 CI. On the dyno they measured, if memory serves, about 475 HP, and 550 ft-lbs of torque (with AL intake, 800 or 850 Holly, good cam). So I think your numbers are reasonable. Too bad the gas engine manufacturers can't come up with an engine like that for our motor homes... Al They have. The new 7.3 V8 from Ford is being sold as a crate engine from Ford Performance as a 600 horse naturally aspirated engine for performance and racing folks. It goes out the door in F53 and F59 chassis as a 350 horse 468 lb-ft torque engine. They pair it with the 6 speed automatic. Then look at the same engine in the F-250 or F-350. It goes out the door with 430 horse and 475 lb-ft of torque. They down rate the engine for stripped chassis, oddly. The F-series is also mated to the 10 speed automatic, not the 6 speed. That said, like the V10 before it, a number of third party modders are already developing computer adjustment tools which an end user can plug in to the OBD port to change engine and transmission performance. The right company with the right mod instructions can do tremendous things to an engine and transmission pair. I suspect there are already Class A owners with the new 7.3 which have gone to 5 Star or another company and are getting significantly improved horsepower and torque with nothing more than plugging in a device to the OBD port. I haven't looked, but I wouldn't be surprised if Banks hasn't already developed performance gear for the 7.3.
jeromep 10/29/21 01:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: WINDSHIELDS ... for older Class As ? ......

RV Glass Solutions is a sister company of Coach Glass, arguably the largest supplier of OEM specialty vehicle glass in the US. Just had my windshield replaced by them. 2001 Fleetwood Flair. They were very easy to deal with and they even found a mobile installer that came to my home. The windshields on my RV are original and they are marked with the Coach Glass brand, and it's a 1995. My windshield glass was shared on a couple of other mid-late 90s motor homes, too, with a similar cut, corners, and edge rounding. I've quickly learned things about owning an older RV: 1. Your RV service shop knows nothing about the chassis, save for maybe some stuff about your hydraulic leveling system or the hydraulics that operate some RV's slides, but that really isn't chassis. Just because they don't service the chassis doesn't mean they don't know where you should go in the area for competent chassis service. If they are a good RV shop they will tell you where their expertise ends and where somebody else's begins and tell you who the somebody else you should go to is. 2. Manufacturers don't have replacement parts after an RV gets to be more than about 3 or 4 years old. That isn't a hard and fast number, and your mileage may vary, but house parts are all "off the shelf" for most manufacturers, so the part maker is who you have to go to to get replacements, not the RV manufacturer. Don't bother calling them unless it is warranty service. Even if it is warranty service, you are still going to have to go through an RV dealer or service center to get the work done. 3. Independent RV service shops (you know, the family owned kind) often scavenge parts from their various jobs and the work they do every day. If they are like most I've interacted with, they have spare parts from old appliance replacements, door handles, cabinet hardware and just about any other house knick-nack you can think of from years of servicing stuff and keeping around whatever was good from the job, "just in case". I got a whole Winegard batwing antenna from a local dealer that they had scavenged from an antenna upgrade job on another rig. I just needed the antenna head as the previous owner lost one half of the antenna element and the Winegard antennas are all componentized for easier service. Your big name service centers are not doing this. Once your RV is past about 5 years old, contacting the manufacturer is probably going to get you poor results if you are looking for parts, however you'll get better results dealing with a local RV service shop and their network to find aftermarket parts.
jeromep 10/26/21 10:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gasser guys and gals ...why not a diesel ?

The torque converter clutch failed and filed the transmission full of shrapnel. The oil was cooked and the front seal failed on the way home, covering the toad with ATF. Think out the whole concept of what your purpose. First the ECU would not be happy not finding the E4OD that is was programed to control. That would create a whole new problem as it also controls the engine. My EEC-IV (catch code MOO0) was only used in a 1995 F53. Then an Allison and an adapter would cost many times more that my old coach is worth. Then finding a computer that would interface with the 460 and an Allison would be impossible. You must be really out of touch if you think THREE LARGE for a special tranny such as I ordered is over the top. Richard Let's see here, a 460 stroked to 528 is probably putting out 400 horse and 450-500 lb-ft of torque, or are my numbers way too high? Maybe 350-375 horse and 425 lb-ft of torque? It is impressive that you have such a fun engine in a motorhome, but I bet it is a kick to drive. I'm not surprised that the E4OD gave up the ghost if your torque numbers are as high as I think they may be. It is a stout transmission, but with those possible numbers, it's time was going to be cut short for sure. 3k to have a performance build of an E4OD sounds like a good deal. There is a YouTube channel for Precision Transmission out of Amarillo, TX and they do lots of tear down videos. Just this week they have posted two for Ford 4R100s, which are the successor of the E4OD and have significant similarities. The C6, A4OD, E4OD, and 4R100 are are all related to each other and are great heavy duty transmissions. A previous poster remarked that the transmission was automotive. Not really. It was always a heavy duty unit for heavier applications, and they have been built by Ford in so many ways to accommodate medium and heavy duty applications, like large passenger cars, all the way to use in the F-series, E-series, and F53 and F59. Ford hasn't used this transmission in a passenger car since maybe the very late 70s or early 80s. After that it was always in a heavy duty application.
jeromep 10/26/21 09:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling “hard dried stuff” in the black tank ?

I'm a huge fan of Unique Camping and Marine's product line. Magic elixir? Maybe, but their tank cleaner product is part of my yearly tank management regimen and their RV Digest-It drop ins are part of my ongoing tank treatment. Every time I dump, when finished I go back in the rig, let about 2 or so gallons of water flow into the black tank and throw in a drop-in. No odors, no backups, very easy and complete dumping. Their entire product line is backed up by a regimen of tank best practices, like never operating your black tank with the valve open when at a full hookup campsite, using plenty of water when flushing the toilet, etc. I suspect their tank cleaner product will do wonders on dried feces and tank gunk. Just follow the instructions and you are sure to get good results. In fact if you may want to use their tank sensor cleaner. It is my understanding that it is their super concentrated tank cleaner product and that may be more useful or work faster for dried up tank sludge, than the regular tank cleaner. Take a few minutes, read the content on their site and maybe take a chance on them. Plus, their tank cleaner and sensor cleaner can be allowed to sit for an indefinite period of time to allow the bacteria and enzymes to digest whatever is in the tank and liquefy it. Considering the time of year, I'm not sure where you are located, but up north it is getting cold at night and I've already winterized, but if your weather is still above freezing, throwing in a bottle of tank cleaner or sensor cleaner and a reasonable amount of water in your black tank and letting time work on it should do the trick.
jeromep 10/26/21 08:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which old motorhome to buy

We ended up buying this 2001 31' National RV Sea View after a several month search. National built a lot of very nice RVs. We used to have a National dealer locally until around the time of the financial bust of 2007-08. I think they went bankrupt in 2007. Too bad as their older stuff has really stood the test of time. That looks like a really nice rig.
jeromep 10/07/21 03:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which old motorhome to buy

There are a lot of good, used, class A rigs at varying price points, and the older units which are still fully driveable and haven't had the snot beat out of them will give you a much better RVing experience than taking a schoolie shell and building it from scratch. Any older class A that you look at, especially if it is 15, 20, even 25 years old is going to need some work. There will be delayed maintenance unless you find the perfect seller that kept all of it up, but just couldn't use it anymore. Those are pretty rare and go fast. But if you find one that is in decent condition there will be delayed maintenance in some areas that you have to work through. I picked up a much older class A last year. The house was in great condition, but there was a lot of delayed chassis maintenance that cost me a bit, along with the rig needing a new roof. But after spending the money on the chassis and the new roof, I still spent a whole lot less than buying a new rig or buying a used late model rig, and I was able to get out there and camp very quickly after dealing with the chassis repairs.
jeromep 10/07/21 02:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Does such a Class A exist?

I'll also follow the bullet point reply to the topic. Toilet: Yes, easy to swap on whatever you get... unless the toilet is a very short one that sits on a box. Some Class A makers did that extensively in the 90s and some even into the 2000s. That means you have to find a toilet with similar vertical dimensions, or you have to remove the old toilet, the framework it is sitting on, determine how to cover the floor in the bathroom where the box void is and hope that the down pipe from the toilet to the black tank is in the proper place to put in a new toilet. Keep in mind that many of these manufacturers put the toilet on a a box so they could put in an angled down pipe to the black tank because the toilet was not located directly over the black tank. A/C: Lots of older Class As have two A/Cs. Ducted systems with wall thermostats are most prevalent on anything from about 2000 forward. With two roof airs you have two cooling zones in which the front A/C handles the front of the coach and the rear unit handles the rear. If the coach you are looking at has 2 roof airs, one for sure is handling the rear of the coach. Slides: Finding a post 2000 Class A with no slides is going to be very challenging. Most manufacturers started to dabble in slides on Class As in the late 90s and the popularity and quantity of slides has increased since then. If you really don't want slides you are either looking for a unicorn or you will have to make your age range for your used coach go back a whole lot farther than 2000. As others have said, a used unit in which the slides work now, can always have some extra inspection and maintenance done which can ensure that slides continue to work well into the future. Twin beds: That is a pretty rare option to find in older coaches, I haven't seen twin beds in anything more modern in years. If that is make or break you will have to buy new and find a maker that will do a one-off custom order to fulfill that.
jeromep 10/05/21 03:50pm Class A Motorhomes
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