RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'jodeb720' found 34 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Electric tongue Jack blows fuses

I'm of the mindset that the gearing on your new unit is lower than in the past - probably to save money. If the drive motor is smaller, and weaker, how do you still lift the weight? Gear ratio is lower. so when you turn release the Up and immediately are going down, the motor may still be spinning and that will cause the fuse to blow (like others have said, wait for it to completely stop). Personally, that would annoy the heck out of me, but as long as I understood the "why" i'd just accept it and go one. Like others have said, you need a backup - and the manual crank is that backup. And don't let others fool you - my manual crank died many a year ago on my TT when I had just pulled into Yosemite and was ready to disconnect. The connecting pin either fell out or vibrated loose and I couldn't crank up to disconnect. Eventually, I made it work enough to disconnect - and jacked the trailer up and lowered down under the tongue using wood. Once I did that I spent a wonderful afternoon completely stripping down the manual jack, re-greasing it and reassembling it and it probably is still working to this day... The point is everything can and will break - but you need a backup. josh
jodeb720 09/18/22 10:58pm Tech Issues
Dicor Water Based EPDM Adhesive DryTime

As directed, I did my roof patch this weekend. I put a piece of Luan over the area above the bedroom in the 5er, nailed that to trusses and used some construction adhesive to ensure it's not going anywhere. Then I broke into the Dicor water based adhesive - which has no instructions on how to use the stuff, anywhere. not online, not anywhere. I applied it to the Luan first - and the put a thin coat on the bottom of the epdm and put it down - making sure there are no creases or bubbles. So far so good. I put that down this morning (sunday). Now for reference, I'm in Denver, and the humidity is low, and it was in the low 80's today. When I went to check on it this afternoon, it was still tacky and you can lift the EPDM up - which normally isn't a good thing, but since there's no instruction, I just don't know. Does anybody know: 1. How long it takes for it to dry? 2. When it's dry should you be able to peel up the EPDM from the RV Roof? 3. What is the recommended application - slop it on, roll it out or just a thin coat? I've worked with other things (e.g. Contact Cement, Silicone, or other glues but this one I'm perplexed with. Thanks in advance! Josh
jodeb720 09/18/22 10:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Furrion Chill 14.5 & 15.5 unit's both use 15.4 amps?

GDE - as you aaid, it's all about compromise. What I'm starting to wonder is when we're going to see someone install a minisplit - not the back, but mounted on the roof with two zones. that will be a game changer - because of the efficiency of the Minisplits - and dual zones - plus the quiet. Of course, most are designed for 220 for dual zones - but it'll happen eventually. I think your insulation has made 105 degree weather on a 20 amp circuit feasible. With an R3, there's almost no way to keep the heat out and the move the remaining heat outside. I ran into that a few years ago up in the Gold Country in central CA. it was 105 and no matter how early I ran the AC, it just couldn't move the BTU's outside the 5er as quickly as it gained it through the roof (and windows). upgrading that insulation will make all the difference. And letting the relatives pay for the Electrical circuit... genius! :) Josh
jodeb720 09/11/22 10:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Slide Out Struggles

For those of you who might be following this thread - I ended up ordering 4 rollers from Amazon (I already had one incorrectly installed). I was trolling through Youtube and came across a video from #loveyourrv. I was a bit astounded to find out the entire slide is riding on two pieces of curved plastic in the corners. I used some 1/4" plywood shims, and lifted the slide up off the plastic using my floor jack and some 2x4'. I mounted the rollers so that there is one in each corner and split the rest of them evenly out across the slide. I also dropped the drive slide drive assembly out, and lubricated the gears in the motor head (there is no way to grease the actual jack screw assembly without diving way deep to disassemble the unit). The good news is the slide now works as well as it did the day I bought the rig. Now for the question that's burning in my mind. I used self tapping outdoor (coated to resist rust) screws with stainless steel lock washers. As much as I'm thrilled with my work, the steel tube under the 5er is maybe 3/32" thick - and I suspect over time, those sheet metal screws will start to bend and/or lose their grip. The best solution would be to weld nuts to the tube - and use some stainless screws to hold the roller assemblies to the frame. Since i'm going to be redoing the floor of the slide, I will have the opportunity to put some rollers embedded in the leading edge of the slide on the inside. From what I can tell, it may damage a new vinyl floor I'm considering putting into the trailer, shortly. Just from a practical perspective, has anybody found the slide will mar the new floor or is the solution to put down those "slides" that you put inside on the floor?
jodeb720 09/11/22 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: Furrion Chill 14.5 & 15.5 unit's both use 15.4 amps?

Thanks to all for the responses... Mine hasn't died, yet - and I'm going on 12 years. I just think at some point I'm going to have to replace it - much like my dometic fridge (though I'll put a 12v compressor from jc refrigeration on my dometic shell when it does). Many years ago professor95 took a 5k window AC unit and retrofitted it into a shell of a dometic unit he got from his local RV repair shop (the unit was dead). It was quieter than his stock unit - and from what I remember, worked well for his needs. I often wonder why we've never improved the AC units utilizing off the shelf parts that are more efficient designs - and at a lower cost because the parts are off the shelf. Enough ranting! thanks again!
jodeb720 09/10/22 10:31pm Tech Issues
Furrion Chill 14.5 & 15.5 unit's both use 15.4 amps?

My 12 year old coleman Mach 3 is getting long in the tooth. I'm exploring options - because eventually it'll fail. everything does. I'm trying to wrap my head around this... I've been looking at replacing the ac unit, and Furrion has two units - a 14,500 btu and 15,500 btu units. both claim to use the same number of amps 15.4 - but the 15,500 unit has a higher efficiency rating. Why wouldn't you buy hte bigger unit - especially since it has the same energy consumption. I spent some time up on the site, and it's full of marketing swill - and not a lot of good details. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks Josh
jodeb720 09/05/22 10:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Slide Out Struggles

Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. Batteries are fully charged, and plugged into 120 - so it's not power issue. PButler - thanks for the suggestion. I'll be searching here shortly.
jodeb720 08/21/22 09:22am Tech Issues
Slide Out Struggles

A fine evening to all of you - my 2010 Keystone Cougar 244RLS has a "challenge" with the slide. I thought the issue might be related to the lack of lubrication inside the jack screw assembly which moves the slide in and out, but after removing the entire assembly this afternoon, it's working fine (though the Motor's grease has almost dried out - it's not the reason it's on sliding). I had hoped this was the problem, but it's not. The bottom of the slide, in the center is dragging in and out of the 5er. I've raised hte slide up about 1/2" to see if that would help, but it doesn't. I've seen on some of the other Keystone products, they've put roller assemblies that allow the bottom of the slide to roll in and out of the side wall - but LCI want's a fortune for the roller assembly (and it's just one small roller 5" wide). I'm thinking if I fabricated a roller assembly with a bunch of small sealed roller bearings I could put it across the most, if not all the frame where the slide goes in and out of the wall. Has anybody done anything like this or am I starting from scratch? Thanks in advance! josh
jodeb720 08/20/22 11:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Pulling new heater duct

In my 5er, the plenums in teh floor were leaking from the get go. it would take 20 minutes for a 5 degree rise. After doing some solid research and verifying it with some folks here, I bypassed the original plenum, used insulated ducting like shown in Mike's picture and now it works sooooo much better. I did have to so some imagineering to get the new ducts through the and around the cabinets, but in the end, i'm much happier. As they say, it's not easy - but when it's done correctly, it works so much better.
jodeb720 06/25/22 09:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditiioning Air Flow Mod

my neighbors bought a new Travel Trailer - I walked them through the same process - had them seal and do the rest. I used an anemometer (wind Speed) that I have for the house (to balance out my sticks and bricks HVAC) with my 4 x 10 vent adapter. When In started, the air speed was 8 mph in the bathroom - and less than 5 in the front bedroom. Taping the inside of the baffle, and stopping the short cycling, it increased to 14 in the bathroom and it was 6 in the front bedroom. After sealing the vents so no air got in the attic (yes, it was leaking there) cutting the pop in insert that was blocking the airflow in the front bedroom and reducing the volume that could come out of the bathroom, front bedroom was at 12, bathroom was at 6 and the other vents were at 10. A much better experience, and thanks for the pics and instructions. They were so happy!
jodeb720 06/25/22 09:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Hercules Vs Endurance Tires?

Thanks guys for the prompt response! I really appreciate it!
jodeb720 06/13/22 10:48pm Tech Issues
Hercules Vs Endurance Tires?

My good friend in CA has decided that it's time to replace his tires. He's looking at: Hercules (12 Ply) Endurance (10 Ply) Hercules is made by Cooper Tires Endurance is made by Goodyear Other than the Hercules has a higher weight rating does anybody have an opinion of either of these? He's not going with anything made offshore - after my stories of "china bombs" on my 5er - Thanks in advance! Josh
jodeb720 06/12/22 08:06am Tech Issues
RE: EPDM roof Material or Something Else?

Doug, As always, thank you so much for the guidance and advice. I was thinking exactly the same idea for resealing it after it was reattached. Eternabond, and once it's all together (with new wood underneath) I was going to put one of the roof coatings (hengs, henry, etc) - of course, not knowing which one to use, If I'm in for an inch, I'm in for a mile. I'll ask. Which has been the best performing coating that you've used? Thanks! josh
jodeb720 05/18/22 10:27pm Tech Issues
RE: EPDM roof Material or Something Else?

I got a pinhole last october and by the time I had found out about the hole, I had a bubble (like the top of a 747) of the 5er. Since the Trailer is 12 years old - for the time being i just want to reattach the existing roof (except for the single hole - the roof is in decent shape) the existing EPDM back the wood substrate. As Doug Pointed out in another email - because of the age of the 5er - If I was going to do it right, I would replace the entire roof - but for the time being I need to seal it up so I can use it for the season. So my question is: What is the correct type of adhesive to use to attach epdm to the wood substrate of the roof?
jodeb720 05/17/22 10:27pm Tech Issues
RE: EPDM roof Material or Something Else?

OP here - First thanks to IAMICHABOD that link told me I have an EPDM roof - Now the follow up question - what adhesive is the correct one to repair a section of the roof? Thanks! josh
jodeb720 05/16/22 11:14pm Tech Issues
EPDM roof Material or Something Else?

I remember reading this a while ago - there are two types of roof's installed on RV's. EPDM and something else. I know 2Oldman is the king of all searches - but I'm not that good. I remember the way to differentiate was the coloring on teh back. Today I pulled one of my vents off and found the color on the a "blackish" color. Which roof type do I have - And as long as you're reading this.. What adhesive do I use to reattach a replacement piece to the sub-straight base? Thanks Josh
jodeb720 05/15/22 10:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Four (4) Row Radiators? Gimmick or Blessing?

In my previous pickup, 2003, chevy silverado HD, i replaced my OEM factory radiator with an aftermarket "Desert" radiator (4 rows) aluminum. It rocked at keeping my temperatures way down - except..... The internal Transmission cooler wasn't a stacked plate design like the OEM and when I was climbing small hills - and such, the Transmission (which ran under 210 under load) was up near 220-240 consistently. It was a mistake. If I could do it over, I would have had the OEM radiator with it's stacked plate transcooler inside with extra rows. Just make sure you look at all the components before you switch (if you switch)... you may get the cooling you're looking for - but no for the Transmission cooler.
jodeb720 04/25/22 10:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Compartment latches and locks

I went with these combination storage locks about 8 years ago. Combination Locks on Amazon i've never looked back and haven't had any issues with them spinning. If your existing locks are spinning, the nut on the back has come loose and you're going to need some sort of washer to stop it from spinning. The cam locks above don't come with washers - so you're going to need to find them online (e.g. McMaster-Carr) I went with the dark finished locks as the chrome/polished finished ones are harder to read. (black with white numbers is easier to read at night) in the 8 years I've had the combo locks, i've never had a problem with them not working well. I've found that the metal behind the lock has gotten bent when DW doesn't full open the lock and the metal of the lock strikes the lip on the inside... but that's operator error not a defect of the lock itself.
jodeb720 04/07/22 09:27am Tech Issues
RE: Available Battery Charger(s)

OP Here. We all know the care and feeding of batteries - especially given the cost for them versus the cost of maintenance (which is relatively cheap). I've ruined more batteries in my life by adding tap water to them, by not fully recharging and desulfating them periodically. From the great advice I've been given here in this forum, I've learned and been able to keep my batteries in good shape with minimal loss of capacity because of a few, easy maintenance items. The best advice given to me recently from all of you was to check the water levels, fully charge, desulfate and disconnect the batteries here in Denver (I was in Los Angeles before) - fully charged batteries don't freeze - and that's not something I would have thought of moving to Denver. For that Thank you all so much! For my cousin, he's just starting out on his adventure - and the path of least resistance and lowest cost of maintenance is an external charger - which has a maintenance mode (trickle charger). He's going to remove his battery when it's not used, slap the charger on it, and store it at his house - not in the TC when not in use. I know. Not optimal - but it's better than using the WFCO to charge the battery (which could take days if it ever fully charges the battery) and it remains permanently undercharged. He and I did discuss moving to Li or AGM which is why he's looking at an external charger which is designed to charge all three of the major battery types (FLA, AGM Li). For now though, it's basic maintenance and he can enjoy his new to him TC for the summer - and he can save his pennies until he can upgrade.
jodeb720 04/07/22 09:19am Tech Issues
RE: Available Battery Charger(s)

because he's young, and still just "starting out". He bought a TC a few years ago, he and I worked on it - extensively - and got the existing solar panel hooked up and working, added a sink and water - and made it habitable. He sold that and purchased a travel trailer for 1000.00 - and parts of the floor were rotting out - he used it last summer - and then sold it for salvage and made a profit from it. Now he's spent a bunch more money on a TC - which is in really good shape - but right now he's cash strapped. If he had the extra cash, he'd throw solar, and go with Li for power - but right now he's got the unit and is looking to come up with a way to boondock - on the cheap - until he makes more money and I can go to Oregon (from Colorado) to help him get solar, and better batteries and find more space to store stuff. the Opposite end of that discussion is my friend who just bought a 40' Toyhauler and is replacing the entire power distribution system that has Charger/Inverter in one device (PD) and purchased four Li batteries so he can run his generator once a day for a couple of hours and recharge enough for his boondocking - but not conserve... A lot of it has to do with where you are financially in life - and what you can afford versus what's practical.
jodeb720 04/06/22 10:52am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.