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 > Your search for posts made by 'joerg68' found 73 matches.

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RE: Best shock for a light weight pop up truck camper

That's just what truck campers do. I doubt any shocks will make a big difference. If you are like myself or my wife, you will get used to it - to the point that walking on solid ground feels weird after a longer camping trip. As said above already, you can lower the rear jacks to the ground when parked to stabilize the camper. If you want to play it absolutely safe, disconnect the turnbuckles when you do that. That way, if a tire should go flat while the jacks are on the ground, your truck would not hang from the camper. Do not forget to retract the jacks and fasten the turnbuckles when you leave.
joerg68 04/08/21 12:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Front bed dipping with camper help

You mean the front of the bed sits lower than it is supposed to and the body lines no longer line up with the cab? Just for clarification You have a short bed (6') camper on a long bed - is there unused space in front of the camper? Have you looked underneath the bed? It is not unusual for the bed supports on these trucks to rust out. They may have crumbled under the weight of the loaded camper combined with rough roads. If you want to post pictures, you can use http://photoposting.is-great.net/
joerg68 04/07/21 12:26pm Truck Campers
RE: BradW's photo links on the Truck Camper Forum

It was my understanding at the time of the fire that the handling of any backups was up to the individual customer. You could buy it from the datacenter provider (OVHcloud), or you could take care of it yourself. I would not be surprised if fototime did not just lose the pictures, but a lot of additional resources needed to run their operation. *IF* the whole thing is related to the fire. Another "interesting" fact about this fire is that there seems to have been no effective fire suppression present in the datacenter.
joerg68 04/06/21 06:50am Truck Campers
RE: BradW's photo links on the Truck Camper Forum

Very sad indeed... @BradW: one such link is in your sig line. The fototime outage seems to match the time of the french fire. If only someone had told them that techniology exists to safeguard data - at a cost... Maybe then it would not have been "beyond their control".
joerg68 04/06/21 03:38am Truck Campers
RE: Ship truck and camper to Hawaii

Your camper will not fit inside a standard shipping container. It is too wide, maybe too tall as well. Look here for some measurements (random google search result): https://blog.mobilemodularcontainers.com/shipping-container-dimensions You will likely need to ship ro/ro (roll on/roll off). You need to talk to a shipping company for reliable information and a quote. The shipping rates are daily rates, so the price you pay in a few months may be very different from what you get quoted today.
joerg68 04/02/21 11:08am Truck Campers
RE: okanagan manual

The manuals - if they exist - are usually very generic. The operation of the different appliances (furnace, water heater, etc.) is explained in the individual manuals by the manufacturer which can usually be found online. Are you looking to answer specific questions?
joerg68 03/18/21 01:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Find cross pieces under metal roof to mount solar panel?

On my 2002 Lance, the aluminum sheet roof was loose on top of a layer of plywood, with a thin layer of foam in between. It was not glued down as far as I could tell. That would exclude the no-screws method. The roof on that camper could be walked on, so I would assume there was a decent layer of plywood (1/4" ?) everywhere. I know there is on my current Northstar camper.
joerg68 03/16/21 02:02am Truck Campers
RE: Find cross pieces under metal roof to mount solar panel?

Does that camper have an aluminum frame? If it is built like my 2001 Lance 915 was, it has a classic wood frame and an aluminum roof. There is a relatively solid layer of plywood under the aluminum. You could remove the interior decoration of one of the roof vents; that is pretty easy to do and exposes the layering/construction of the roof. Depending on the thickness of the plywood, you can bolt the solar panels directly to the roof with some short wood screws, without the need to find additional support. Seal all holes / screw heads well, goes without saying. You might also consider to mount an air dam of sorts in front of the panel, so the wind doesn't get underneath it while you drive.
joerg68 03/12/21 10:31am Truck Campers
RE: Outfitter's New Molded Fiberglass Body for the Apex 8 Camper

The setup of our current Northstar camper is similar. A lot of fesh water, small gray tank. If/when you have a cassette toilet, you need to dump very frequently anyway. And a place to dump is much easier to find than a source of fresh water. We dump the (usually about half full) cassette daily as well as the gray water tank (using a bucket for the gray water). That way, we always have 2 day reserve. And a half full cassette weighs only half as much as a full one when you take it out. That way, we can stay parked in one location until the fresh water runs out (> 5 days), as long as we have a place to dump the cassette and bucket within walking distance. Works for us, doesn't work for everyone.
joerg68 03/03/21 07:53am Truck Campers
RE: Trimming down tie downs to fit

OK I think I get it now. You could lengthen the (too short) Fast Guns with a section of chain* - Thats what I do as I bought two of the short ones in error back in 2009. I had HJ bumper buttons in the rear on our old truck. Found out, the short Fast Guns are for the front tiedowns. We have TL tiedowns all round on the new truck. https://i.imgur.com/cPQsyhrl.jpg Do you have four short Fast Guns? You could try to sell both sets and buy the correct length Fast Guns. Or you could probably try to combine both sets, as you described in your question. The Fast Guns disassemble easily, so you should be to find out how long the hook section needs to be / where the nut is that it bolts into inside the housing. At least I think I remember that mine came dissembled from the factory. Unscrew the hook part until it comes loose, then the retainer nut is free inside the housing. There is a plastic cap on the upper end of the housing that you can remove. The loose retaining nut just comes out at the top end. At least I think that is how mine work. I have never used the standard turnbuckles, but I imagine they disassemble just as easily. * if you do this, you need chain with welded links and one threaded chain link for each tiedown. At the time, I think TL had included the chain/link hardware with the tiedown kit.
joerg68 03/01/21 12:26am Truck Campers
RE: Trimming down tie downs to fit

Sorry, I have no useful answer to your original question. But why are the Fast Guns too long? You have a normal truck, normal camper, Torklift tiedowns - everything should fit like it usually does? Do you have a picture?
joerg68 02/28/21 03:03pm Truck Campers
RE: New F350 owner seeks TC information

edit: photoposting site already linked
joerg68 02/28/21 04:48am Truck Campers
RE: Happi Jacks

The issue sounds like an overload problem (maybe corrosion in motor or gears), but then it should cause more issues when raising the camper - lowering puts less load on the motor? Have you tried switching the jack motor (or the whole jack) with another one to see if the issue moves with the motor? If the problem stays at the same corner, it is an issue with the control board. Afaik there are only two wires going from the board to each jack, where the polarity is reversed for up/down. In which case a wiring issue would probably manifest in both directions. The old ones were easy to remove and install, don't know about the new ones. The old ones were also very prone to corrosion issues, I had one seize after two winters. But I haven't heard anything about the new ones yet.
joerg68 02/23/21 04:53am Truck Campers
RE: New F350 owner seeks TC information

Northstar has a few hardwall offerings for SB trucks. They make a good product. We are happy with ours (Arrow Long Bed version). You might also look at Bundutec - they come with a Truma furnace/water heater. They will also do a lot of individual customizing for you. https://bundutecusa.com/bunduvry/
joerg68 02/14/21 05:19am Truck Campers
RE: oh joy...........

... sorry, wrong thread
joerg68 02/14/21 05:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Quieter alternatives for propane furnace in extreme cold

Don't Cirrus campers come with an Alde heater from the factory?
joerg68 02/08/21 03:04am Truck Campers
RE: New F350 owner seeks TC information

Hi and welcome! Sorry if you know any or all of this already: You need to be aware of the payload and (rear-) axle capacity of your truck. The official numbers can be found on two stickers that you can see when you open the driver's door. One contains the weights (Gross/GVWR, Front axle (FAWR), Rear Axle (RAWR). The other one contains the payload. I assume the truck is single rear wheel. The rear axle rating will probably be limited/determined by the load capacity of the two single rear tires. The center of gravity of the camper determines where the camper's weight will be carried. On a short bed truck, the weight of the camper will usually go all to the rear axle. If the cog is in front of the axle, some of the weight goes to the front axle. If the cog is behind the rear axle, some weight will be transferred from the front axle to the rear in addition to all of the camper weight. The longer the camper is, the further back its cog usually is (depending on design decisions of the camper mfg). The most reliable way to determine the available capacity of your truck: Take your truck to a scale and get the individual axle weights. The truck should be packed in the way that you usually travel, probably mostly empty, but with a full tank of gas. The difference between the RAWR and the actual (empty) weight on the rear axle comes pretty close to the weight of the camper that you can safely carry in the back without modifications. How far you can exceed this is a topic of hot discussion on this forum. I will not get into this. A few 100 lbs are likely not going to be a problem. The stated dry weights of a truck camper are usually grossly underrated and do often not contain lpg, battery, a/c on the roof, sometimes not even the jacks. And they do not contain anything you load into the camper, such as water, food, all of your belongings. Only a scale can tell the actual weight. Assume that any camper will be a lot heavier than what the brochure states. You say that your truck is lifted. This will not help with the handling of the rig. A TC is already top-heavy. Your questions: Camper cog: Some campers come with a cog marked on the side. Some state the cog position somewhere in the specifications, usually as a distance from the front bulkhead. The actual cog is obviously subject to the way the camper is loaded (and outfitted) and may be a bit fore or aft of the stated position. As a rule of thumb, it is usually around 1/3 back from the front bulkhead. If you need to know where exactly, you are probably pushing limits already. Tie down mounts: Have them installed and ready before you pick up the camper. It will be stressful enough the first time, so get that out of the way. Tailgate: If your first trip with the camper takes you home, you can certainly leave the tailgate in place and carry it home inside the camper (maybe wrapped in a blanket?). They are easy enough to remove, unless the PO has installed some anti-theft device, in which case you should know about this beforehand. So much for initial information. I am sure there will be more coming. Do not worry, the truck will carry a camper just fine.
joerg68 02/05/21 04:45am Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite.

Take note of this thread near the top of the forum: https://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27945924.cfm
joerg68 01/25/21 12:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Truck Camper - Newbie Needs Advice

With your truck, you are limited to 8-9 ft campers without slideout. Most of these should work fine w.r.t. payload / rear axle weight. The tongue weight of your boat trailer needs to be subtracted from the available payload / axle weight. This may limit your options. A well matched truck/camper rig is neither difficult to handle or dangerous. Where / at what time of the year do you plan to travel? Most campers in that segment do OK in cold weather, but I would not call them true four-season units. There is a thread right near this one titled "Helping a very new TC owner with a truck decision". Might be worth a read. You might have a look at a used Northstar camper. Their Arrow and Adventurer lines offer a twin bed in the cabover and the dinette bench converts into a third bed fairly easily. The Arrow is no longer offered; only its cousin Arrow U which has a different dinette (but may still work for you). Mfg. homepage: http://www.northstarcampers.com/
joerg68 01/23/21 02:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Helping a very new TC owner with a truck decision

Payload is only part of the truth, and not the most important one w.r.t. truck campers (and there are a lot of discussions about weight on this very forum). You need to keep an eye on the Rear Axle Weight Rating, as most if not all of the camper weight goes to the rear axle, especially in a short bed truck. Ideally, you should get the actual axle weights of the empty truck, as in, weighed on a scale. The difference between empty rear axle weight and RAWR tells you what you should be able to haul. The limiting factor of the weight rating is often the load rating of the tires on an SRW truck. Be very careful with any weights that come from a manufacturer's spec. sheet, be it truck or camper. They are often very optimistic and do not take all weights into account - you need to know what is in and what is not (truck trim line, camper jacks, A/C for example).
joerg68 01/20/21 06:00am Truck Campers
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