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 > Your search for posts made by 'joeshmoe' found 24 matches.

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RE: Resealing Camper Jack Brackets

Because the sealant is all pushed out. I suspect from flexing due to loading/unloading the camper. I've been told when you no longer see butyl oozing from between the camper and bracket, it's time to reseal. Northwood claims the bolts go into the aluminum frame, but who knows. So you're saying let it go? I've had to re tighten them several times over the last 9 years. They all snuggled up fine. None spun or stripped. I'm just concerned about water intrusion
joeshmoe 02/25/23 11:53am Truck Campers
RE: Resealing Camper Jack Brackets

joeshmoe 02/24/23 11:44pm Truck Campers
RE: Finally Common Sense in California (No Shows at Campgrounds)

We've all experience rhe phenomena of trying to get reservations at an extremely busy campground. Trying multiple different dates and lengths in the reservation system only to be told the campground is full by the system. You keep checking back constantly and manage to find a site that opens up at the last minute and you rush to grab it and feel quite fortunate. When you roll into the campground you check in and feel quite good that your persistence paid off to get that one lucky spot. Then, you drive around the campground headed to your spot and notice several empty sites on the way. No worries you think, those people just haven't arrived yet, they will fill up. You keep an eye on those sites as you enjoy your trip and the day you pack up you note that many of those sites stayed open even though there where reservation tags on them. Yup... No shows... Now, most of us truck camper folks like going off grid anyway to avoid the crowds. Even with our preference to avoid the crowds, there are still times when we need to use regular campgrounds from time to time. I've had several times where plans changed and I am trying find a campground with space, only to be told there is no space available. Knowing full well that a good percentage of people are going to be no shows but I am being turned away anyway. Someone in the California legislature has noticed this as well and proposed a bill to penalize these no show folks. This is great news for the system! There is a commitment problem within society where people just don't keep their commitments any longer. This won't solve that problem but it will ar least penalize some of them who take advantage of a lenient system at the expense of others. Now if we would or could do the same to the govt for its failing of commitments. Not sure that this required legislative action, but whatever. Less govt is my approach.
joeshmoe 02/24/23 04:36am Truck Campers
Resealing Camper Jack Brackets

Appears to be butyl caulking between the camper and brackets. Any tips or tricks that might help? While I'm at it, I'd like to replace the bolts with better coated fasteners. Recommendations? I saw someone suggest GRK screws? They look like a good, grippy replacement.
joeshmoe 02/24/23 03:41am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Install

Here's one. Narrowly escaped. There's another where 3 people were killed as a result of swerving to avoid flying panels. Any of the solar forums, you find at least a few people stories of avoiding flying panels. The point is...don't do it. https://www.solarquotes.com.au/blog/solar-panel-caravan-coroner-mb2475/ DOT or NHTSA will have the statistics you're looking for.
joeshmoe 10/19/22 03:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Install

So you're one those guys who slaps or should I say "sticks" with tape, panels on a roof and calls it good? Mine aren't going anywhere. Yes, use what you want to your own and others detriment. How's it gonna feel when unbeknownst to you, your "right" tape job begins to rightfully work itself loose and panels end up through the windshield of a minivan full of kids or worse, causing multiple vehicles to crash? It happens more often than you're willing to admit, obviously. There IS only one way to install panels--the safe and secure way. We're not talking about plastic moulding or fiberglass body trim.
joeshmoe 10/14/22 01:08am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Install

**Do Not** use ANY kind of tape as a primary fastening device on a rubber roof to secure rigid framed panels. As mentioned, find studs to drill into. Look at using aluminum Unistrut as a base or frame. Your panel dimensions will not land exactly where the cross members are. A little pricy, but its WAY lighter than the steel version. It's easier to cut and work with and wont look ugly in a few years. I suppose you could even hit it with a coat of white paint to cut down on the little, extra heat absorption. Your choice. I just added a three more panels to my array using the 2" tall version (only size available) Unistrut, self drilling (not self-tapping) stainless lag bolts, fender washers, 1.5" wide Eterna-Bond tape and Dicor lap sealant. We know Dicor is perfectly compatible with TPO and EPDM. Other sealants...mmm...maybe not. Plus, it's far more pliable to remove or to clean and reapply. Urethanes, like Sika are a little too good at adhering. I don't need that on the roof. Properly clean and prep all surfaces (denatured alcohol, mineral spirits or sparing use of acetone and Scotch Brite pads work well). Using a total of six 5/16" x 1.25" bolts, 1/4" pre-drilling all holes was necessary. Next, cut roughly a 3" long x 1" Eterna-Bond tape and apply over all pre-drilled holes, noting location of hole. Be sure to press down hard across the entire strip of EB. Its pressure activated. Repeat these steps at all penetration points. Next, Add a large dollop of Dicor onto EB tape. Center and align corresponding Unistrut slot opening over noted pre-drilled holes. Press down. Allow Dicor to evenly compress and ooze out from under Unistrut. Install fender washer on bolts. Preferably, using some kind of impact driver, locate hole with point of bolt and drive it in with moderate pressure. It'll just spin otherwise. Stop at about 3/4 way in and use a ratchet to finish by hand tightening. Note: Over tightening or using impact to fully drive bolt may result in stripping. Now, you have to start over. Don't do that. Once all bolts are installed, apply Dicor to fully cover bolt heads and washers. Done. Arrange and install panels using Unistrut cone-nut washers or whatever bracket fastening system you choose. The idea is to plan for expansion and only drill holes once. MUCH easier. Anyone can drill holes, destroy their roof and randomly throw up a bunch of panels. Somewhat related tip: You may already know it, but try not to walk on your roof with shoes. I'd rather ruin a few pair of socks than forget to check and track a tiny rock or two. Or in my case, a metal shaving that burrowed itself into my shoe bottom then transferred into the rubber roof. So much so that I felt it might become a water intrusion point, so I put a piece of EB tape over it. Good luck
joeshmoe 10/13/22 08:12pm Truck Campers
RE: We knew it was coming...

All I know is we were well on our way to energy independence with the pipeline scheduled to come online within a few years in early 2020, prior to the absolute insanity that took place. I'm supposed to believe those same people who created this mess? No thanks. Whoever voted for the current guy and his party, owes me gas money.
joeshmoe 10/08/22 05:22pm Truck Campers
RE: New Superduty gas engine for 2023.

Its interesting that all the offerings are push-rod motors. Superduty customers have been wanting more than one option for years now. From '99 all the way to 2020, the only push-rod motor option was the Powerstroke.
joeshmoe 09/30/22 05:13am Truck Campers
RE: How to remove omnidirectional antenna

Didn't want to have to remove the metal post. It isn't really necessary to fit the panel, but I think I will remove it now. I'll have that much more room. I just figured the less I have to deal with, the better. Thanks
joeshmoe 09/12/22 12:25pm Tech Issues
How to remove omnidirectional antenna

Trying to make room for a solar panel. Don't really want to break it off since I'm sure there is a way to remove the plastic dish from the metal post. Any help? https://i.imgur.com/srawPril.png
joeshmoe 09/11/22 11:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Shocks... KYB Monomax versus Rancho 9000, equivalent?

I save money where I can because I have to. If life events didn't happen, maybe I could be like you. Glad you can throw around a grand and not bat an eye, especially in this economy.
joeshmoe 08/17/22 04:09pm Truck Campers
RE: Shocks... KYB Monomax versus Rancho 9000, equivalent?

I've read lots of positive reports about Bilstein shocks. I went Ranchos also because of reviews. Can't say I've been overly impressed. Not bad, but not great either, even with my lightweight camper. Marginally better than stock. I got a smoking warehouse deal on Amazon, so I went with them. Going with Bilstein next time.
joeshmoe 08/05/22 12:43pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

Everyone compares to Battleborn but fails to mention they use cylindrical cells,not prismatic.. Very true, costlier grade ‘A’ cylindrical cells of high uniformity (ain’t no free lunch), as does Aims… 3 tons If I'm not mistaken, those Battle Born cells (and all LFP cells for that matter) come from China, but are assembled here?
joeshmoe 08/03/22 08:23pm Truck Campers
RE: Shower Pan Reinforcement

I thought expanding foam was just to fill gaps, not support weight. My pan has staggered 1x1s supporting it. Looks like a stilt home under there. Pretty cheesy looking, but seems to work.
joeshmoe 08/02/22 02:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

BTW, 3 tons nailed it in post #2. Good info for anyone looking into switching to LFP.
joeshmoe 08/02/22 11:01am Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

And this business of needing to spend hundreds of dollars on specialized charging equipment is false. If you already have a multistage charger that's all you need. Occasionally, they need to go to 14.5V. Many chargers already can do that. If not, no biggie. Get an inexpensive charger that can do 14.5V for 4-6 hrs and you're done. As far as cost for raw prismatic cells, I'm currently paying $596 for four LF280K prismatic cells. Another hundredish for the BMS. $700 for 280Ah, not 100Ah, which is the most common capacity, isn't too shabby. Yeah, if you insist on Battleborn, you're gonna pay, but you don't have to.
joeshmoe 08/02/22 10:38am Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

Lithium is a Hassle? LoL it's the same procedure as installing acid batt. Sure, building a raw cell batt. requires a little more effort, but the payoff is far better than lead acid. Price has dropped considerably for both raw cells and drop in's. You can get an 100Ah LFP for about $350. Probably less if you can catch a sale. That's less than the two 100Ah 160lbs AGM monster I replaced. Effectively the same Ah's. I paid $400 less than two years ago and they've already begun to degrade. They were well taken care of. Not even used much, really. Nah. With a 50% usable capacity that begins diminishing immediately at triple the weight vs. roughly 10-15 minimum year life to 80% capacity, even longer for the new K cells, lithium is absolutely less expensive in the long-term. I do agree. If you're always plugged in, there's no point. But that's not truck camping. That's something else.
joeshmoe 08/01/22 03:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

I see you're taking compression pretty serious. I started out compressing, but after looking into it a bunch, it seems compression is of only some minimal benefit to longevity. With the lesser cycle cells, you'll get some marginal extra life, or with used B or C grade cells. The K cells will last 17 years even if you mildly abuse them. If you really take care of them and constantly keep them in the 60-80% range, they are estimated to last 32 years. And that's without compression. Not saying compression isnt correct and I know the manufacturers have always recommended it, I just can't see going through the hassle with these new LFK cells.
joeshmoe 08/01/22 12:14pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium Battery Charging System

"I don't do a lot of boondocking, but that could always change in the future." I boondocked with wet batteries and now with a Lithium battery. With an adequate solar system recharging either type of battery is not an issue. Sure, my Lithium has more usable power and it recharges faster but those are the only differences I've noticed. didn't notice the weight and size savings? Right? He'll also notice a difference over time when money isn't leaving his pocket after just 400-500 lead acid cycles vs multiple thousands of cycles with LFP. And the person "worried" about whether lithium batteries are safe... That's just silly. Lifepo4 chemistry is super safe and stable. The BMS takes all the worry out of it. You literally need to do nothing except keep it at 20-80% SOC for maximum life. You can even discharge to 0% if need be, so long as its not too quick. Get it charged back up at to at least 20% and you're good.
joeshmoe 07/29/22 02:47am Truck Campers
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