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 > Your search for posts made by 'jrloucks' found 18 matches.

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RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

So final update on this project. The burner valve assembly arrived. First thing I did was confirm/check the manufacturer stamp/silkscreen on the solenoid was what I needed. Photo below confirms a 12VDC 0.5PSI solenoid/valve. https://i.imgur.com/anuVDUHl.jpg Next I checked the burner nozzle size on the new valve and as per next photo it was a "58" vs the "53" on the original nozzle. https://i.imgur.com/ucwQnFXl.jpg Next photo shows the 4 position plug on the new burner power wiring. https://i.imgur.com/zyJ0OZFl.jpg Here's a photo of P8 on the Dinosaur board where the 12vdc power comes from to open/close the new valve solenoid. https://i.imgur.com/Y4ubvB6l.jpg Next photo is a test fit of the new burner plug on the Dinosaur board. It fits, but one of the wires needs to move. https://i.imgur.com/YsYQIevl.jpg In order to remove the yellow wire from the plug, I cut the plastic surrounding the pin so I could extract the pin (I didn't have a proper wire extraction tool). Then I inserted the yellow wire into the proper location. The solenoid operates the same regardless of the +/- orientation of the 12vdc power. (I confirmed this with a bench test some time ago.) https://i.imgur.com/iIUlNlAl.jpg Next photo shows the modified plug installed on P8 of the Dinosaur board and the jumper cut as required. https://i.imgur.com/bcdKnDGl.jpg Next photo shows the new valve installed on the original burner metalwork. I had to rotate the new burner to fit under the refrigerant pipe. But I can still access the brass shutoff knob here. I was using soapy water to check the valve for leaks. Also, I replaced the "58" nozzle with the "53" from the original valve. I also double-checked the (air) space between the end of the new valve/nozzle and the burner orifice was the same as the original. https://i.imgur.com/np2Wuc5l.jpg Success! Next photo shows the burner lit/operating with the new valve. https://i.imgur.com/7Lclj2yl.jpg I un-plugged/plugged the 120VAC power cord from the fridge several times to make sure the propane was shut off/on as expected.
jrloucks 08/01/21 03:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Manuals/Build Info: 1994 Travelaire TC240 on E350 Chassis?

If you need chassis information, that should be available from Ford or the usual other companies (Chiltons, Haynes, etc.). Since the E series vans were very popular, there are also lots of YouTube videos, forum posts, and so forth online about most any chassis maintenance thing you'd run into that can be found with a bit of searching. Finding service documentation on individual appliances and other third-party bits is often not too hard once you get the maker, model number, etc. from the thing in question. We have a 1984 Travelaire and this is exactly what I ended up doing. (a) Purchasing a Haynes Manual for the Ford Chassis, and (b) searching on-line for copies of all the OEM appliances installed by the RV manufacturer (fridge, stove, hot water heater, furnace, etc.) The ford truck enthusiast forum at https://www.ford-trucks.com/ is also a very useful source for information/help. Your Travelaire should have a large manufacturer's label stuck somewhere. Our label is stuck on the inside of the bathroom closet door. This label includes details about where the RV was built and all the model numbers of the OEM appliances installed at the factory.
jrloucks 07/19/21 03:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

An update. The new valve/solenoid arrived. Unfortunately, when I compared the original valve to the new one, I discovered that the original nozzle jet (53) won't fit on the new valve. See photo. https://i.imgur.com/c8uiPP6l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. I plan to return the new valve and I have ordered the DOMETIC 3850730569 RV REFRIGERATOR GAS VALVE ASSEMBLY 2007419217. This assembly comes with a new valve with a "58" nozzle. So, I'm hoping the original "53" nozzle will fit. It also comes with the premade cable where the male plug should mate with the Dino board's female connector.
jrloucks 06/29/21 01:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Class C Detailing in Ontario, Canada

Here's a Google Search of RV Detailing near Burlington, Ontario Clicky
jrloucks 06/24/21 11:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

So I ordered this valve solenoid manufactured by CEME. Norcold uses it for their RV fridges. Norcold 633726 Gas Solenoid Valve, $60 on amazon The solenoid itself has the same electrical characteristics required: 12VDC normally closed. And the valve has the same propane specs: 0.5 PSI and male fittings. I'm expecting the valve to be a little shorter in length, but that shouldn't create too much of installation challenge.
jrloucks 06/21/21 12:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

Got my reply from Dometic: "Unfortunately we cannot recommend using new parts on your older model, we also can not order a replacement solenoid any longer. If you are experiencing a gas leak you may want to consider upgrading to a newer fridge. The newest replacement model for your fridge is DM2672 https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/ca/products/food-and-beverage/refrigerators/rv-refrigerators/dometic-dm-2672-_-183082. You can follow this link to view this product and to find a dealer near you." Thanks but I'll look for another more cost-effective solution.
jrloucks 06/21/21 12:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

dougrainer. Thanks for explaining the differences between the two valves. The instructions I received with the Dino Micro P-1338 Rev 5 board (which I installed a while back) has images of the two gas valves that this board supports. Snip-it below. https://i.imgur.com/er44iD9l.png Once I hear back from Dometic to confirm the valve p/n to use for the RM 763, then I will reach out to Dino for confirmation. In fact, I may just ask Dino anyway, they should know p/ns and such. Looks like the P-1338 board doesn't need/use the thermocouple. https://i.imgur.com/zvJVM6vl.png
jrloucks 06/08/21 08:12am Tech Issues
RE: Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

With more digging I found what appears to be the p/n for the later model (Weber) gas solenoid: 2932615012, but have to confirm that this part is compatible with the Dometic RM 763 fridge. (New $130, Used $75). https://i.imgur.com/mOKNK3dl.jpg There also is a Dometic Refrigerator Gas Valve Burner Assembly, p/n 3850730569, which may be compatible with the RM 763. (New $85) https://i.imgur.com/Lu2dG1zl.jpg I submitted my questions to Dometic to see what their response is.
jrloucks 06/07/21 02:12pm Tech Issues
Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge

I smelled propane and went hunting armed with a trusty spray bottle filled with soapy water. I found a leak on the housing of the propane/gas valve/solenoid in the rear of the fridge (Dometic RM 763). https://i.imgur.com/gBN4bEnl.jpg I believe this is the original valve for this fridge based on what I've read. I also assume the valve is obsolete because of (more recent) Dometic field service articles referring to a "new" Weber gas valve. Can someone confirm that the original valve is unserviceable? I see a kit available on clearance from Camping World which includes: Gas Valve/Solenoid. Circuit Board. Thermocouple. Bracket. Installation Instructions. Ground Terminal https://i.imgur.com/ZTKr7vnl.png I already have a relatively new fridge controller card from Dinosaur Electronics (MICRO P-1338 REV 5) which supports the Weber valve. I can make a bracket for the new valve. So my preference is to purchase the Weber valve only. If you've tackled this specific 'upgrade/repair' I'd love to hear from you.
jrloucks 06/02/21 12:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Meter

I was considering a nice flush mounted voltmeter to monitor the house battery. I even bought one which didn't work (got my money back). I eventually bought a portable cigarette lighter voltage monitor to plug into a cigarette lighter connected to the house battery. https://i.imgur.com/eEmHE4ql.png The advantage of this unit is it's portable, and can be removed if the plug needs to be used to power something else. It doesn't require modifying the Systems Monitor, or cutting a hole to mount a more permanent meter. It can also be plugged into the dash cigarette lighter to check the chassis battery charge/status.
jrloucks 03/15/21 02:24pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Drilling holes in trailer roof to install solar: worth it?

I had a small 60W portable solar panel to start. But I was always worried it was going to 'grow legs' and disappear. Eventually I purchased a 100W rigid solar panel and mounted the panel to the roof of our Class C using some Renogy RNG-MTS-ZB Solar Panel Mounting Z Bracket Mounts. https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3A3ER2DUE46B5/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00BR3KFKE
jrloucks 03/15/21 02:07pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Dometic Fridge stopped working in cold weather? Ideas?

It sounds to me like the first/easiest place to start it to check the electrical connections of the 120VAC heating element. As others have said, a bit of oxidation/corrosion on the terminals can result in a poor mechanical connection and cause problems. Second, measure the resistance of the heater. Here's a link to a service manual which may be of help (assuming your fridge model is included): https://fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf Page 10 has a table with the resistance values for the AC heater element for each fridge model.
jrloucks 01/08/21 01:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge/Freezer door opening while driving

We had a similar problem with our '84 Class C. Although equipped with a (worn out) door lock/latch midway between the Dometic fridge and freezer doors; the doors would both swing open while travelling. The latch is good for keeping the doors slightly open during storage, but that's about it. The doors are hinged on the left and have holes on the right side which I suspect could be used for reversing the door opening/hinges. I cut some common nails to length and use these nails to keep both doors shut in transit. First picture shows the (lower) fridge door with a nail cut as short to allow the freezer door to close completely above (on top of) it. https://i.imgur.com/QDSHaT7l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. The second photo shows another cut (common) nail to keep the freezer door shut during transit. The nail was shortened to allow the cupboard above to open and have something to grab. I had to drill a hole through the plastic top cover from the bottom up, using the metalwork's hole as a guide, to make this work. https://i.imgur.com/3xrMNybl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. I was worried I'd loose these nails as they are not tethered to the fridge. But we still have them, four years later.
jrloucks 01/04/21 01:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port

I think it would be much simpler to just use a cable and be done with it unless there is a specific reason on why to go wireless. When I show my phone on the tv its one cable from the phone to the tv and it charges the phone as well. austinjenna, my original ask was that I wanted the tablet not to be physically tethered to the tv (with a cable). This would be akin to the wired cable tv controllers of the late 1970s. Yes, I may end up going the KISS route with a cable between the two devices. But for now with wireless cast/mirror technology available, I am willing to invest a bit of my $, time, and learn something (good, bad or ugly).
jrloucks 08/31/20 06:30am Technology Corner
RE: Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port

So Fire TV stick arrived. Pre-configured for me. No real hurdles to start it up. I was surprised it knew our wifi SID and password...that was disturbing. Casting using my tablet with MirrorShare connected fine to the Fire TV, but this is with the Wifi/network enabled. (I wanted to make sure it worked before I disabled the network, like when we're camping.) But I ran into a problem with casting Amazon Prime videos (and Disney for that matter). The videos do not play on the TV, the video plays/displays on the tablet, but not the TV. Audio is fine, plus all the extra data (cast bios, trivia, stop/pause buttons all appear on the TV. Just not the video. A quick search on the Amazon Fire TV forums says this has happened to others in the past. But no real common fix, (software updates don't apply to me because everything is at the latest-and-greatest.) I posted a new question on the forum about my own 'experience'. I may try casting without the network to see what happens.
jrloucks 08/29/20 03:26pm Technology Corner
RE: Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port

I struggled with this for a while and wasted money on some different devices such as a Chromecast which were failures. By accident I discovered Samsung Smart View which is only available to download for a limited time. It will soon be discontinued but will still work if you get it now. I then link my tablet with my Fire Stick. Go to settings, display and sounds, and click on "Enable Display Mirroring. Open Smart View on your tablet and make the connection. I download shows when internet is available and then play them on the television later. "Struggling"...This is exactly what I'm trying avoid myself. As an experiment I was able to cast my tablet using Mirrorshare to an android box receiver running Miracast connected to my home TV HDMI port. I did some more sniffing around and it appears that once the Fire Stick is paired to the broadcasting device (tablet), network (internet/wifi/router) access is not required to cast/mirror. So I took the plunge and ordered a Fire Stick. I will be able to use the stick at home, so if it doesn't work in the RV (with no network access), then this exercise is not a complete loss. I will update the thread here with what actually happens...the good, bad and the ugly.
jrloucks 08/21/20 08:54am Technology Corner
Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30128077
jrloucks 08/18/20 11:09am Tech Issues
Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port

Folks, I'd like to use my (Android) tablet (cellular data package) to broadcast/cast/mirror my tablet's screen to an HDMI port on the TV in our RV. I've been told Google Chromecast will do this, but it needs internet (wifi) access (not sure if this is a onetime setup or always available). So, I'm wondering if anyone else has actually done this with no wifi. Are there OEM casting dongles available that do not need wifi access? I'd prefer a wireless connection (no cables required between tablet and HDMI input on TV). Thanks, Jack
jrloucks 08/18/20 11:09am Technology Corner
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