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 > Your search for posts made by 'jshupe' found 157 matches.

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RE: Arctic Fox 1150 is breaking my 2016 Ford 350 dually

Sorry about duplicates, it's harder to post pics on a phone... Anyway, it's on both sides of bed. At about the same intensity. I did bolster the tail of the camper for a while, to stop movement, but I think it just made it worse, as the forces were increased on the trail of the bed, rather than just letting it rock around on the rubber mat. Next time it's going to be an F550 or Ram 5500. I blame the aluminum bed currently. It looks like you're using bed-mount tie-downs. An aluminum bed, heavy camper, and bed-mount tie-downs sounds like a recipe for these kinds of damages. I'd switch to frame mount to prevent further damage, or use this as an excuse to buy a flat bed with storage boxes.
jshupe 04/14/21 09:09am Truck Campers
RE: 12 volt only refrigerator

12 Volt using solar in boats might be fine, there aren't many trees to block the sun. Here in Penn's Woods, many campsites are surrounded by trees. There is a lot of energy in a propane bottle, no need generate it. Absorption fridges don't like working at elevation - we sometimes stay at 10-11K Absorption fridges don't like working off-level - we often park our rig and leave it, fridge on, without leveling, sometimes on very unlevel surfaces Absorption fridges are much more prone to catching fire than compressors Absorption fridges are much less reliable and more subject to ambient conditions We camp in wooded areas often, but have never been unable to find a suitable location for solar I see many benefits to running a compressor fridge over an absorption one, for my use-case. I suppose it depends on how you camp. We used absorption fridges for 3-4 years, in three different trailers, and for about a month recently in our TC while we waited to find a place to ship a compressor unit to. Compressor units are better in every way, as long as you have a suitably sized solar array and battery bank to run them if boondocking.
jshupe 04/14/21 08:34am Tech Issues
RE: 12 volt only refrigerator

We used a JC Refrigeration kit to convert the 2-way refrigerator in our truck camper to a compressor, and converted the fridge in our fifth wheel to a residential. JC sells 12V and 120V versions, but we went with 120V because our inverter is on 24/7 and our battery bank is 48V, though we do still have a 12V system. We will never have an absorption unit again. We boondock the majority of the time in both rigs.
jshupe 04/13/21 01:25pm Tech Issues
RE: solar

This comes up a lot, and it seems a lot of CPAP machines can run off DC, so you can avoid an inverter if you have the correct machine. And I'm not familiar with machines, but energy consumption seems to vary drastically depending on whether you use a warmer, etc. In short, we need more details about your setup before we can provide any tuned recommendations.
jshupe 04/12/21 10:33am Tech Issues
RE: New/old deck on New AF990

That's awesome JS. That's the first "Take along Tailgate" I've seen! Very neat. I eventually wired up the backup camera, cutting off the factory connectors and replacing them with BNC, and using a patch cable when the truck camper is on. Now we can keep an eye on the Jeep.
jshupe 04/12/21 09:20am Truck Campers
RE: New/old deck on New AF990

AISURFFISH - congrats on the new camper! Awesome how you've moved the new deck from camper to camper to camper. It looks really nice. I wish I had the equipment to weld aluminum out on the road - I only carry a small FC90. Kind of hijacking this thread here, but Bert the Welder, this is an old revision of our deck, with photos I already have uploaded. Pertinent notes below the photos. https://www.lifeenroute.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/IMG_2544-1024x768.jpeg height=450 .. the cables hanging off are dog tie-outs and Christmas lights, not part of the deck. https://www.lifeenroute.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/FullSizeRender-2-1024x768.jpeg height=450 .. I removed the board running across, and added gussets to the frame corners... https://www.lifeenroute.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/FullSizeRender-1024x768.jpeg height=450 .. Torklift Stow'N'Go steps - we have five now, instead of four. -- I really like having the deck flush with the bumper and the accordion steps up to it. And at 3x6', it's narrow enough not to obstruct the lights or license plate, block the sewer hose access either down or folded, and can be laid down even with the Jeep attached for flat towing, for access to the camper.
jshupe 04/11/21 11:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Used Tow Bar Values

I had a 10 year old Roadmaster Blackhawk 2, 10K tow bar. I missed a dip in the road and bottomed out the coach. Because I tow a Ford Raptor with 13" of front end travel, it bent the tow bar like a pretzel (determination/theory developed after speaking with Roadmaster. I think that travel is definitely a factor here. We have a ton of travel on our JL now with the MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5 suspension, which allowed it to easily push up and under the bar and as you said, bend it like a pretzel. We didn't bottom out, but the travel still came into play somewhere. The Blue Ox Allure we switched to has been great so far. Towed it over a mile of pitted slickrock and off-kilter sand to get out of our last site, through some tight gas-station turns, and an hour or so of highway so far, and had no issues with binding or anything else. The clunking I was concerned about with the pintle is a non-issue.
jshupe 04/01/21 11:11am Dinghy Towing
RE: Used Tow Bar Values

What did you do to bend the shafts both the same direction? We just stopped. Yes, the bar was perfectly level between the tow and toad on flat ground, and yes we use auxiliary braking (Roadmaster Invisibrake) and tested that it was working after the incident. One of the arms no longer locks into place, and has a rattle when you shake it - like some teeth sheared off. The pivot point, if you look closely at it, is bent on the vertical axis. When it bent there, the Jeep dived under the bars pushing them upwards. It actually pushed them upwards enough so that the pivot bolt hit the grill/hood, which is what the damage to the Jeep was. The bars are both bent in the same direction and that direction would have been vertical, not side to side as it appears with the bars on the ground. I installed a Blue Ox baseplate yesterday and am going to use an Allure 10K bar with pintle, which is better suited to the way we use this and will better handle the weight as our Jeep keeps gaining. We probably won't determine exactly what happened, but I think there were multiple contributing factors: Unknown use history prior to purchase Teeth or locking mechanism failure in one of the bars Metal fatigue at pivot point Soft front springs that made it easier for the Jeep to dive under the bar Jeep weighing ~5500lbs, getting close to the 6K limit Bar has been used to tow the Jeep off-road on some fairly gnarly terrain
jshupe 03/28/21 11:58am Dinghy Towing
RE: Boondocking in the sand -- how soft is too soft??

We've boondocked all over Utah and *knocks on wood* haven't gotten stuck in sand here yet. On the way to our current site, there is several hundred feet of soft sand that I sink down a couple inches in, when walking on it. 4H is usually more than sufficient for small bouts of sand, 4L is more useful when you need granular control for crawling over rocks. If you have at least a rear locker, that'll help a lot. One of our friends got stuck nearby with a semi tractor pulling a fifth wheel, but their drive tires aren't well suited for off road and they had probably 12K plus whatever the truck itself adds on the rear axles. We alternate between a fifth wheel and truck camper, both of which are much heavier than your rig. Take traction mats and don't worry about it. We never air down unless we're talking about the Jeep, and only then for specific trails.
jshupe 03/25/21 01:25pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Used Tow Bar Values

I don't think that's because they were used. That looks like they were never locked. If that were the case, this would have happened in the first 10 hours of driving that day. You can hear what I presume are teeth rattling around in one of the sleeves where they sheared off, and the passenger side arm won't lock in place at all now.
jshupe 03/25/21 08:06am Dinghy Towing
RE: Used Tow Bar Values

I'm sure there are lots of opinions on this, but for me, I wouldn't take the chance buying a used towbar. The manufacturer of mine recommends "service" every year or two if I remember correctly. If a new one cost $1k and a used one was $500, I personally couldn't justify saving $500 for something that has a lot riding behind it! For others, it's an acceptable risk. Don't get me wrong, I buy used stuff all the time, but in my mind, some used things just aren't worth the risk. Fire Extinguishers are another thing that comes to mind! I very rarely buy used equipment - but in an unusual move, bought a used tow bar. Horrible mistake. 5K miles later, it failed and is costing me a little over $3K to fix. https://i.imgur.com/PpZqNei.jpeg width=640 https://i.imgur.com/tzcz4JV.jpeg width=640 It left an impression from where the main pivot bolt hit the hood and grill. https://i.imgur.com/6oSIC9X.jpeg width=640 This happened at the very end of a 10hr travel day -- at least we were close to our destination.
jshupe 03/24/21 03:09pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Photo Thread - Post a Photo of Your Truck Camper Here

https://imgur.com/oE4bdSS.jpg width=640 That's a nice-looking Jeep, jshupe. The wheels are amazing too. What specific rims are they? I'm planning to purchase a set from 4WheelOnline, and I haven't made up my mind yet, with regards to the specific brand. Thanks. Vision Nemesis 111 machined, with painted rash ring.
jshupe 03/22/21 07:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Schoolies

Yeah for all the people arguing the technicalities of RVIA, I somehow doubt the parks care so much about the details and much more just the fact that it wasn’t factory built.
jshupe 03/20/21 09:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Photo Thread - Post a Photo of Your Truck Camper Here

Love to see pic's of the top and shots of the rack and mounts, if you are able and inclined. I was about to ask how big the battery bank is.....but just occurred to me that with all that solar, you might only need 1! LOL! We have a 48V system for 120VAC loads in addition to the factory 12V system I haven't decided what to do with yet -- on our fifth wheel, I removed the 12V batteries and use multiple (Victron Orion) DC-DC converters in parallel, but on this one I'm not sure I'll bother. 12V is two group 29 120AH (if I recall correctly) batteries. 240AH total, 120AH usable @50% DoD. Lead acid. 48V is three SimpliPhi 3.8kWh batteries. That's roughly 900AH@12V. LiFePO4. 120V is provided through a Victron Quattro 48/3000 inverter. Panels -> SmartSolar -> 48V batteries. Since the rig has AC power 24/7, a Progressive Dynamics converter (though somewhat inefficient in this manner) just floats the 12V system. If I want to decouple them for any reason, I just unplug the converter but I've only done that once when we were low on the 48V batteries and I didn't want to run the genset until morning and didn't want it to kick on automatically (as it's programmed to do). That let us run the 12V loads (mainly furnace that night) off the 12V batteries. We went 48V in this because we have 48V in our fifth wheel, and already had six of those SimpliPhi batteries in there. We move three batteries between the rigs and have them on Andersen connectors. I built simple trays for them to sit in using angle. I don't have a photo of the rack or mounts on hand, but most uprights are just 1-1/2x1/4 aluminum bar with stainless bolts to sections of 2x2-1/4 aluminum angle. Each piece of angle is cut 8" long, and mounted to the roof using four molly bolts. If we ever remove the rack, we can just remove the bolts for the uprights and leave those "feet" behind and not worry about patching a bunch of holes. This is a photo I snapped of a sticker I added... hah, for all the looks and questions it gets. You can see some of the construction. It was taken before the outer edge supports were added. The wind dam is for tree branch/limb management as much as anything, and is connected from the top using exterior stainless door hinges. I then rested it on the front cap and hand bent 1x1/8 aluminum bar to secure it to the rack on the roof - so I wouldn't have to put any holes in the cap. https://imgur.com/1t403Y3.jpg width=640 This photo is of a cracked panel - user error. I was trying to break some galled stainless threads loose and lost the wrench on the opposite side of my impact, and the wrench handle smacked the underside of the panel. A sad casualty due to my stupidity. :o :S It shows the feet I was talking about. https://imgur.com/jPxuCIF.jpg width=640 The bars that run under the panels to support them are made for mounting panels on residential roofs. They come with bolt mounts that wedge the panels against the bars and hold them under normal conditions. Since constantly moving at highway speeds isn't normal conditions, I added four L brackets with four Teks screws in each one (two into the panel, two into the rack, for an additional 16 total screws per panel) for additional security. Then I stitched all the panels together on the outer edges using 3/4-1/8 aluminum angle and more Teks screws, and the outboard "legs" bolt through it and the panels. It takes about ten minutes to remove all the bolts and screws to pop a panel off for maintenance. Anyway, hope that provides what you're looking for.
jshupe 03/19/21 11:05pm Truck Campers
RE: Schoolies

Lots of campgrounds require RVIA certification. So if you want to stay in campgrounds, you might want to rule a conversion out. As long as you do your research and then construct it properly there’s no problem getting it certified. BTW, the requirement is NOT RVIA certification, the standard is NFPA spec. Just read the fine print on any RVIA label, it quotes the req’d spec, RVIA are just the certifying body. Kind of like on a S&B home, the building inspector signs off on it, but the building code is the spec. to be met. A recent stay comes to mind - https://www.trailervillagervpark.com/park-rules Only RIVA approved units will be allowed in the park. Due to safety reasons no "Homemade" RV's or FEMA trailers will be allowed. And another - https://www.rt66rvresort.com/rules/ Incoming RV’s, motorhomes and travel trailers must be in good condition and self-contained. Due to the high standard of quality in the RV Resort pop-up trailer, tents, or home constructed units will not be permitted. We were asked during booking at both places, specifically about an RVIA sticker, on a quick trip through NM a couple weeks ago. That was on the phone before they even saw the rig. Ultimately it's up to the park - if you want to stay in parks, I wouldn't go that route.
jshupe 03/19/21 04:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Schoolies

Lots of campgrounds require RVIA certification. So if you want to stay in campgrounds, you might want to rule a conversion out.
jshupe 03/19/21 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which of these two trailers tows better

I am getting 5-6mpg going west and 7-8 going east. Any head wind, will drop mpg to 6mpg. I am yet to see 9-10 even in Flats. Yes, the hybrid is totally useless when towing. I learned this the hard way. I probably would have gone in a different direction if I had known this as well as the fact the tank is only 30g so range kind of sucks. I never expected mpgs to drop to 1/4 of regular driving when towing. My older trucks drop mpgs in half not this dramatic. The truck does have its appeal when not towing. It is just the ra ge that gets to me. That's a small displacement engine that's going to constantly be in boost while you're towing anywhere close to highway speeds. To be expected. Mine used to get around the same MPG with a 29', 6K-ish trailer. Not much you can do about it - and the trailer won't make that much difference with that truck unless you go to a Hi-Lo or a pop-up. In answer to your initial question, the shorter the trailer, the better that truck will handle it. Pick the shorter one. Anything approaching 30' is too long IMO, for a half ton. Been there, learned the lesson, and moved on to a different truck. I've found that aero has far more impact on fuel consumption than weight - we get more or less the same mileage with the truck camper as we do with the fifth wheel, whether we're towing the Jeep or not. I thought shaving 10K off the GCW would improve things - but in reality - little to no change. Unloaded or even towing a 24' 8K boat - MPG jumps up significantly.
jshupe 03/19/21 01:24pm Travel Trailers
RE: Photo Thread - Post a Photo of Your Truck Camper Here

wow no problem on brevity, I hate using the phone too, so that's great... I was looking to upgrade my panels, 4 x 180 and only saw the 200s which should fit, but heck, now I'll look for the 360w, heheh, Yikes... never have to much power.. Thanks, no need to hurry on any reply, wait till you get to the laptop as I do.. cheers.. Yep... I much prefer a proper keyboard to elaborate with. Most residential panels are rougly 40x66" - and you'll find those panels range from 250W up to around 400W. We have that size panel in a 325W variant on our fifth wheel, and a newer version in a 360W variant on the truck camper. If you can stretch to a 40x78" commercial panel, you can get even more power in the same width. 5 panels * 40" = 200" of panels, or 16.6'. We went with the 66" panels so we had room to walk on either side of them for maintenance purposes. The rack is all aluminum with stainless hardware, and mounted through the roof using around a hundred molly bolts because there isn't much to grab onto up there. It's also tied into the AC chassis and luggage rack for additional anchor points.
jshupe 03/18/21 10:25pm Truck Campers
RE: Photo Thread - Post a Photo of Your Truck Camper Here

Nice and having the solar panels up like that doesn't cause any problems other than height.. I see the wind breaker in front, but ???? not sure how the wind swirls back around like on the highway... 65mph... and 5 panels up there?? 2 x 200w? nice Height is just a couple inches taller than the AC unit, under 12’6” loaded on the truck. No issues with the rack in several thousand miles at 70mph. We know several people with similar racks on fifth wheels and class As, and modeled it according to their successes. 5x360W for 1800W total. Up and over is the way to go. Sorry for the brevity - replying from my phone.
jshupe 03/18/21 08:44pm Truck Campers
RE: Photo Thread - Post a Photo of Your Truck Camper Here

https://imgur.com/oE4bdSS.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/7EXgI8e.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/PflGD3w.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/UyC06e6.jpg width=640
jshupe 03/18/21 07:44pm Truck Campers
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