RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'kfp673' found 108 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Wastewater Tote & Fresh Water Containers - Do you use them?

This past summer I invested in fresh tank because we have been increasing our boondock camping. I was ready to buy the larger 65 gallon bladder but because I camp with 3 kids and tons of bikes, fishing poles, and other kids things loaded into the bed of the truck, I was concerned about puncture. So instead I went with a hard side 35 gallon tank from tractor supply and an $11 drill pump. Used it 3 times so far and it worked fantastic. Takes me about 10-15 minutes to pump 35 gallons into my tank. My wife and daughters love it because they can now take "real showers" when we do boondocks weekends LOL
kfp673 11/18/21 01:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: I'm actually in favor of high cancelation fees....

Thanks for all the replies so far. Good to know others are seeing the same thing... Taking all the replies in, I feel like a combination would be best. 1- all or nothing cancelation and 2- your LAST day (not the first) has to be the full period out. So here in PA the period is 11 months to the day. The "to the day" part needs to be your date of departure. Should at least level the playing field for those of us trying to get weekends. Thanks again all!
kfp673 10/04/21 06:55pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
I'm actually in favor of high cancelation fees....

Maybe that's not the answer, but maybe it will help at least a little... Sorry for this upcoming rant, but I have a state park rant I must make to get off my chest ;-) I've been tent and RV camping in state parks my whole life. Most here in PA but also surrounding states. Now that I have a 5 person family, state parks are the perfect balance of what I want (boondocking) and what the kids want (hookups and things to do), but getting a site with at least electric has become near impossible at most of our favorite parks without months and even a year in advance planning. My wife and I both work and we have 3 kids in sports and activities. Trying to plan long weekends a year in advance is not possible. Our full week vacations we rarely plan that far out let alone the weekend trips. Anyway, my gripe is the games people play with booking. Here in PA, you can book 11 months to the day in advance and book up to 14 consecutive nights. What that causes people to do is book 11 extra days with their last day on a Sunday when they only intend to stay for the weekend / long weekend. Because the cancelation fee is only $10 they just wait the 30 day waiting period (or longer) and cancel the days they don't want. They also book multiple long weekends without knowing if they can make it and cancel when it gets closer, again it's only $10. So people like me that are looking too book 30-60 days out have to sit on the computer multiple times per day just hoping to get lucky. I would love it if they did what our PA state forrest does with Boondock permits and have a 30-90 day window (depending on the area), but I know people need more time to plan. So, I would be in full support of a 1/2 or even more loss for cancelation. Of course as always that means people with money can still play the game and others can't (like many things in life), but maybe it would discourage the "games". Another idea would be to make a new rule where EVERY day you plan to book must be at least 11 months out. So you now can't book until 11 months from the last day of your trip rather than your first. Anyway, sorry for the rant. It has been getting harder every year but the past 2 years has been terrible. There are a few parks that we used to camp at least once every year that we have not visited in 3-4 years now simply because we can't get a site. Anyway, back to your regularly schedule programs....
kfp673 09/27/21 01:39pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Pet peeve, neighbors leave porch light on

Had an similar issue with a neighbors light that was shining through our tent end when we were tuning in for the night. I politely asked them turn off the light as they were fine with it. problem solved. I'll put up a string of lights, I just unplug when I turn in, notice most other folks do the same, no worries. Mike I think this type of polite communication is key, but it is important to remember it is a 2 way street. My family (kids included) are night people. So if your "turn in" time is 9 or 10, I'm sorry but my light is staying on. 11 or 12 when we go in and they 100% go off. Everyone should be flexible, but also willing to communicate. Now if a neighbor leaves it on all night (we have all forgotten and done it), a quick reminder and I'm sure 99% will say no problem.
kfp673 09/26/21 06:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Fridge project for the fall

If you can hear the fans making more than a slight hum it's time for new fans. While you are at it maybe ad one. They are really nothing but the same ones used in desk top towers. Don't go crazy with the number of fans or they will short cycle. This will be my project soon. Just have to figure out how to get to the current fan location. It's currently located about half way up the stack. Based on what I am reading, sounds like most have better luck with it up closer to the top vent closer to the fins, but I'm not sure I can even get my warm down in there to reach the fan. Looks like it was installed first and then the refrigerator placed in the cavity. Thanks again all!
kfp673 09/26/21 06:12am General RVing Issues
Fridge project for the fall

Hello again all! Our camper has the typical (Although taller than previous I have owned) AC / LP RV fridge. However, our fridge is in a slide out. This summer we have done more traveling south than we ever have and I noticed 2 things. 1- the fans in the top of the 2 exterior vents (I guess it is exhaust fans??) can be awfully noisy and 2- it struggles to keep as cool as I would like. This is especially true at the beginning of our trip when we have more food in the fridge. It does perform a bit better on LP than electric, but when we have electric hookup I hate the idea of wasting propane. Anyway, I am curious if anyone has successfully improved the cooling capability. I am also curious if anyone has found equal or better exhaust fans that are quieter. They are often right above my head when I sit outside, and on a warm day they will run A LOT and get annoying. Thanks in advance!
kfp673 09/15/21 06:05pm General RVing Issues
Water heater sealing question

Hello all, When you look at many water heaters, across the bottom where the heater fixture meets the external mount / door, there is a strip of black sealant that seals the space where they meet. Hopefully I am explaining it well enough... It feels similar to decor roof sealant. Mine is cracked across the bottom. Not a huge deal but I'd like to replace it. I feel like Butyl tape is the best option but looking for confirmation. I was going to grab black silicone, but the original feels more "gummy" than silicone. Is Butyl tape the best for this? Thanks
kfp673 09/15/21 07:02am General RVing Issues
RE: Is there a quiet water pump?

Awesome feedback everyone. After reading these replies about insulating the pipes and mounting on something rubber I googled it and found a bunch of videos saying the same thing. Never considered that. Figured the pump itself was just noisy, but insulation and rubber pad is a cheap and easy thing to try. I'll give that a shot first. Thanks all!
kfp673 09/08/21 12:55pm General RVing Issues
Is there a quiet water pump?

We have been increasing the amount of boondock camping we are doing so I started carrying a 35 gallon water tank in the truck. Currently using a drill pump with intentions to buy a 12V transfer pump some time soon. But that got me thinking... The water pump in our trailer is the typical loud rattling pump. Not a big deal during the da, but a toilet flush in the middle of the night will wake me up (pump is in a compartment in main bedroom). I figured there must be a "high end" and obviously more expensive pump I could install in the camper and then repurpose the existing pump to become my transfer / backup. Is there such an animal? I'm happy to pay a premium for something smooth and relatively quiet. Any suggestions? Thanks!
kfp673 09/08/21 05:57am General RVing Issues
RE: Suggestions for a Weight Distribution Hitch

Take a look at the Blue Ox Sway Pro, no noise, and you can backup with it. I've had one for 6 years, and would buy it again. Agreed. I changed over to Blue Ox 3 years ago when I got my current trailer and will stick with it. Super easy to use and no removal for reverse, and it works well
kfp673 09/06/21 03:24pm Towing
RE: Transferring fresh water when dry camping

I use a bladder. This one can hold up to 60 gallons and when not in use folds up and takes little room. https://i.imgur.com/cYfbpEbl.jpg Very interested in this setup. Curious, how is that brand bladder holding up? Do you fill at home before you leave? That is what I will have to do so I am looking for one that can carry 50-60 gallons and survive a 3 hour truck ride on a fairly regular basis. Also, we don't have gravity fill. Outs is garden hose park hookup but with a valve to fill our on board tank. Will this bladder and the pump you show work with standard garden hose fittings? Thanks!
kfp673 08/29/21 06:19pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Fresh water tank

Just a thought as I am thinking of a solution for us as well... Most water pumps have a bypass already installed for winterization with a short cut hose designed for pumping antifreeze. If one carried an extra 40+ gallon bladder, could you not use a full length hose off that typically short hose connection and run it to the bladder? Then just flip your valve from the internal tank to the external tank when needed? Anyone see any downside to that concept? Also, anyone have recommendations for fairly rugged portable bladders? My concern is placing in the bed of the truck puts it next to the rest of my "stuff" and I'd be scared to have something roll or land on it and easily puncture. I would even consider a solid water tank similar to what is in the camper but would obviously want it designed for potable water. Also need to remember to disinfect. 1 more question for everyone... Are the flexible bladder type containers (ideally 50-60 gallons) durable enough to fill at home and travel full fora few hours in the bed of a truck? Where we boondock there are no water fills near bye, so what we bring is what we have. Thanks
kfp673 08/29/21 08:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Hersey PA RV show

Just to add some perspective, it is the parking lot of a Hockey arena. So picture a Hockey or Basketball arena and it's lot filled with RV's. As stated above, if you go there with a blank slate unsure if you want to see small, large, travel trailers, 5th wheels, motorhomes.... yes it will take a few days. We have been there 4 or 5 times and always had a reason and 3-4 hours was plenty. I imagine pre-internet days this show was more valuable. Now most already know what they are interested in. This just makes it nice to see in person.
kfp673 08/24/21 05:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Just as a final reply for those interested, the AC is up and running. As noted above, I ordered and entire new ceiling piece that has the selector dial and T-Stat dial in it and plan to return the one I had. Ironically, a tech support person finally called me back 2 days after I left a message and email to be called back and after I had bypassed the T-stat. I discussed what I did and he said it still could be either the selector or t-stat, so rather than only replacing the t-stat I pulled down the entire ceiling assembly and replaced with the new. All is running well now and we are good to go with 1 day to spare for our trip. Thanks again everyone. I will drive myself to exhaustion before I give up trying to fix things, but the replies here were a big help and saved me a lot of extra time.
kfp673 07/15/21 07:00am Tech Issues
RE: Should I Throw In the Towel?

There are so many issues with the construction of RVs from design, to workmanship, to materials. Also the fact the we consumers want it as cheap as possible, and as light as possible so we can tow a 30ft house with a minivan does not help us. I've got a 5 year old Heritage Glenn Hyper-Lite, and these are some of the things that drive me nuts. The construction is so sloppy, screws that are in crooked drives me nuts, shower head holder that is not in a stud is crappy, and the list goes on. The wood in the seat in the dinnette looked like balsawood from a toy airplane. On our second trip out my daughter went crawl to the back of the U-shape, and her knee went through the wood. The "wood" was less than a 1/4" thick, with few cross supports. Now the floor has soft spots, not from water, but from usage. Apparently they think that the same balsa wood with foam between it, is ok for a floor. From feeling the soft spots, in front of my sink (high usage area) it is 24" between the floor joists. I will never buy another camper marketed as light, as I feel that means flimsy. I know we bought low/middle of the line, but I really was hoping for more quality. We love to camp, and are thinking of going to a couples 5er since the kids will both be in college in a month. But honestly I'm not sure how far up in price do we have to go to decent quality, or do you ever get there? It seems like Grand Design, and Jaycos(nicer lines) may be somewhat better, but you still see many of the same issues. In basically the same floor plan we like I can get a $50k Jayco Eagle, or a Grand Design Solitude for $70k, or a Mobile Suites for $150k. I like the price on the Eagle, I could swing the Grand Design, but is there $20k of better quality? The Mobile is Nice, but not in my budget. When we bought my wife her Honda CRV, we looked and came to the conclusion it was worth it to spend the money on the Honda over a Kia, for the quality and reliability of a Honda. We looked at Lexus, and felt it was probably not anymore reliable than the Honda, but did have some nice features and was pretty, but not worth the extra money to us. All great points, and I think we are agreeing with each other just from a different perspective. You are pointing out the lack of quality, workmanship, and QC and saying that because it is standard buyers must learn what to look for and what to maintain. 100% agree. My stance is simply questioning why it is that way, and I am not willing to accept the idea that it must be that way or prices must drastically increase. I guarantee the executives in each of these massive RV companies are doing just fine financially. My comparison to the Trucks is just to think about materials. Other than the shell itself (fiberglass, wood, whatever) the rest of the trailer, including the frame, are relatively inexpensive. Think about the quality, fit & finish, technology, QC, and warranty you get with a $50k truck vs a $50k trailer. In in your example, I would argue that you will find that Grand Design you pointed out is probably not built all that much better than yours. I'm sure to some degree it is but I think we would all be shocked if we could strip it down. That extra cost is going into nicer leather seats, nicer lighting, etc. And the crazy thing is, what is considered "Nicer" is total junk compared to what you would buy for your home or put in a car until you get well into the 6 figures for a Class A. Anyway, certainly not giving you a hard time as your points are spot on. It's just disappointing every time I have to fix something in my trailer (pretty much every trip) that comes back to pure workmanship and QC.
kfp673 07/14/21 06:17am Travel Trailers
RE: Should I Throw In the Towel?

"three trailers, three units were major problems. This latest trailer just purchased late last summer is the latest to push me over the edge." Your doing something wrong! Either your doing very poor PDI when you first get your trailers. Your not keeping up with regular maintenance. You are not being obesrvant enough to catch/discover small issues before they become major problems. Your latest issue is an example. It is common for skylights to leak in all models however the leak does not have to lead to a totally soaked ceiling! RV's are in constant flux. You must be observant and aware at all times as you use your RV. Pay attention to all the liitle squeaks and noises. If it seams weird investigate further. Notice a wet spot, find out why? Hear an odd sound,find out why? It is an on going battle, but you can win. You just need to be diligant aware and observant. As to your current problem unless you have the skills to DIY you are at the mercy of your dealer and manufacturer. Executing the warranty is full of pitfalls I think your statement that it is common for skylights to leak proves his point. Since they have been putting the same crappy leaking skylights in for what 15-20 years, you’d thing they could fix it by now. 100% agree. We buy trucks and other vehicles that depending on their use can take equal or in some cases far more of a beating, spend about the same $ on them, come with far more up to date technology and complication / engineering, and yet they ship with at least a 3 yr 36k mile bumper to bumper warranty (sometimes longer). I think it's really sad that the RV industry is so filled with junk that it is a common answer to hear "that's just normal you have to watch out for it". Imagine if your truck windshield leaked and caused mold at 15 months old with 18k miles on it and the dealer said "did you have it professional checked and resealed???" if not no warranty. I love camping / RV'ing as much as anyone but as consumers we tend to give them far too much leeway and even make excuses to support them using junk materials and rushing their build.
kfp673 07/13/21 12:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Good news for sure. Is it too late to consider taking the thermostat to a local ac shop and buy a thermostat that will work with your unit? Much easier than the disconect and reinstall the complete unit. It is just a small t-stat rotary dial so I'm not sure anywhere would have it in stock that would fit this small housing. The new unit is scheduled to arrive Wednesday so I should be fine. Actually don't have to remove the entire thing. The piece that holds the flexible plenum and the electric, on/off switch, and t-stat can all stay. Simple 2 screws and you can remove the t-stat. I'll just replace the parts that I need and return the rest in the other package. If it does not show up there are plenty of ways to rig it now that I know what to do. Thanks!
kfp673 07/12/21 02:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Well... I am 99% sure I have this figured out. Thanks everyone for the links and suggestions. I have multi meter tested everything I could think of and all of the suggestions on this forum but the one thing I did not do was mentioned above and that was bypass the T-Stat. I removed the yellow and white wires from the T-stat this morning and jumped them and BINGO!! we have cold air! Ironically I had left a message for the place I bought it to setup an exchange of the AC itself, but super happy it's the T-Stat. Of course the T-stat itself is not in stock anywhere including the factory. Since we are leaving for a trip Thursday I decided to just repurchase the entire ceiling assembly and have it shipped to arrive Wednesday and then I am setting up the return of the one I have. Figured this way even if the refund and return take a long time, I am temp out $200 ish. I will post 1 final time once it's replaced. Thank you all very much for your replies and help. Hopefully some day this thread will help someone else!
kfp673 07/12/21 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

I still need the MODEL of the roof top unit. Doug 48204-669 Coleman Mach15 Indoor unit 9430D7153
kfp673 07/11/21 08:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Purple wire comes off the back of the selector knob. At the back of the selector knob it has 120v, it then runs via the harness up to the housing where the capacitors live where it is spliced to a back cable. 120V show there as well. Black cable then runs to the compressor which has 120v (actually they all ready about 117 + or -. Both sides of the capacitor also reads the same 117 ish. T-stat has different colored wires including white. Anyone know how to properly test a rotary t-stat with a meter? The ceiling unit is model 9430D7153. I find it strange that I hear and feel no "click" when I rotate the t-stat knob. I would think I would feel that if it were working and sending a signal to the compressor to engage.
kfp673 07/11/21 01:07pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.