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 > Your search for posts made by 'klutchdust' found 179 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Carrying extra fuel in garage

Sounds like some of y'all should fix the gas leaks on your "toys".... I don't believe that it's coincidence that in 20 years almost of storing bikes and sleds in enclosed trailers, year round, I never have smelled gasoline fumes inside unless something was leaking or I was filling the tanks. Me too. Before this TH with a fuel station i carried my fuel in jugs in the bed of my SxS. I had no smell inside the trailer.
klutchdust 04/14/21 07:45pm Toy Haulers
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Hmmmm ... I wonder on Class C rigs if mechanics can merely remove the front wheels and then remove the metal liner on the engine side of the either wheel well (I think this sheet metal liner is bolted in/on) to easily get at the sides of the engine? I had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on our Class C's V10 engine and sure wish I'd asked the mechanic if the above is how he got access to those V10 manifold bolts. Quite possibly he did that. My Pickup with the Duramax needed new glow plugs. I removed the inner fenders and it made the task much easier. When servicing the engine I remove the inner fender on the right side to access the fuel filter. A visit to my friends diesel repair shop and you may see Ford Pickups with their cabs lifted off of the chassis for removal of cylinder heads. https://i.imgur.com/hzapiQEl.jpg
klutchdust 04/13/21 12:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Trying to level my motorhome

HHmm...I always used the add a board, check the level, add another board method. :B
klutchdust 04/11/21 09:13am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everything was accessible, spark plugs were no issue at all. One could do water pump, belts, mostly anything. Now I never got inside the motor nor did any tranny work. I mean situations where the radiator hose bursts in the middle of nowhere, or a belt. I get concerned about these van-type designs where repairs become considerably more difficult. As half the engine is not accessible. Whenever you talk DIY on a truck chassis, IMO, it's ALWAYS about having the right tools for the job because of the size/weight/time. (IMO, everything is easier when you do) Look at any professional commercial truck repair facility. The Pro's ALWAYS have pneumatic/hydraulic/electric repair tools including lifts, pits, compressors, jacks, presses, pullers, pumps, special wrenches, machine tools, welders, appropriate tempered/sheltered space, etc., the list goes on and on. As a DIY'er, (I'm one too) on the road, most often, you don't have the benefits of those tools. That doesn't mean you can't "Git 'er done" . . . . just that it will be more difficult with the limited array tools you "DO" have. IMO, with patience, persistence, creativity, a little cash, experience, internet, . . . . you can do just about anything cheaply, . . . just not as fast as the pro's. Chum lee Minus the lift I have most of what you mentioned and I'm a DIy'er. Having wrenched for a career tools do accumulate. What is important to remember and perform is regular maintenance. Before a trip my rigs go from back yard to front driveway. I get on a creeper with a flashlight and spend some time just looking and checking. I found worn out suspension bumpers on my TV and replaced them last week. If level block wheels ,put in neutral and tug on the u joints. A few zip ties always get used for loose or broken wire looms fasteners. Doing this eliminates a lot of possibilities once you hit the road. I carry basic tools and some fasteners ,quick set epoxy is very handy. Pilots tug and pull and check before take off, I do too.
klutchdust 04/11/21 09:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

A few things to consider. And yes I read you other thread too. Or to sum it up, best value is get a big pickup and then you can get any type of trailer you want. Get a cheap throwaway for the short term, build credit with a truck loan, still have a large living area and not spend much on the fist RV. $10k for a trailer will get you a very nice trailer and you'll have the configuration (a full truck hood) that you started the thread with. Interesting points you make. I have struggled with this option for years. A heavy duty TV (such as F250 HD or whatever) plus a TT or a RV with a toad. It is an interesting idea, to just get a heavy duty 3/4 ton and a throw-away camper would be great at this point and later on get what I really want, either a Fifth or something else. And there is nothing wrong at all with a classy Airstream, one can certainly do a lot worse than that. Late 90's one that's wide body should be in my price range. It's nice to have that kind of flexibility. An RV both gives and reduces options. That is, you are married to the drivetrain it comes with. Not sure I am thrilled with that concept. Once I park the rig for 6 months, I have the flexibility of using TV as a DD. My commute is not huge so it's cheaper to use a single vehicle versus getting a cheaper econobox with great MPG. I already ran these numbers. If you have a TV then put it to work. My 2500 sat for awhile while I drove my Class c. Sold the C and got a toy hauler,Forest River work and play with enough room for a side by side. It's built like a tank and weighs as much as one. I drop the trailer then go off fishing etc. With my c I towed my Jeep instead. Times and needs change, adjust accordingly.
klutchdust 04/08/21 10:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How to get a loan for RV

Start with your local credit union. Try your bank if you have dealt with them for a while. If buying from a dealer, have them carry the ball on this issue. Dealer loans cost more. The dealer gets a percentage of that rate then the lender gets the rest, that's what I was told.
klutchdust 04/08/21 09:11am Beginning RVing
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Pretty much the only truck-based class C's are the super C's built on heavier duty platforms than the van chassis, and also typically have heavier price tags to match. You'll usually be doing a lot more maintenance and repair on the house part of the motorhome, and access to appliances and systems there is highly variable but usually, per Murphey's Law, really tight for that one thing that is currently giving trouble. The engines and transmissions do not need a lot of repair generally speaking. Exactly. A rv'er do it yourself'er should focus more on house repairs than drive train. I drove 45K miles and other than routine oil, filter type items found no need to get into the engine. Do a search on RV for sale and you can view the front ends. Sprinters have MB on the label, add $$$ to repairs and limited access to mechanics. The Ford V-10 is a reliable engine, as friends that have driven 300K plus miles on their V-10's one recommendation comes up frequently, ignition coils. Buy some extras and carry them with you. As mentioned, brush up on your electrical and plumbing skills. My vehicles get meticulous maintenance using the best oils and filters. each trip I have a list of items that need attention before next trip, it's almost always house related. Did have a leaky washer fluid tank once.
klutchdust 04/07/21 12:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Question, would class A have easier engine bay access than a class C? I get it I am generalizing. Working on my Class C with the doghouse is the same as working on any van type vehicle. I removed the doghouse only twice and that was for general inspections and routine checks. The usual items on top would have to be removed to service water pump, alternator etc. If you are a decent mechanic it should go smoothly. Find a RV lot with some pre owned and start lifting some hoods.
klutchdust 04/07/21 11:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Chassis noise

Good luck getting it fixed. If you have more detail on the noise like when it started, what it sounds like, if it’s present when coasting or in neutral, worse when accelerating or going uphill. You said it’s mostly a noise but common issue would be an out of balance tire. It’s one of the few vibrations or issues that are speed sensitive only. " It’s one of the few vibrations or issues that are speed sensitive only. " Bearings are speed sensitive, bushings are speed sensitive and unbalanced or mis-balanced drive trains are speed sensitive. Rear end gears are speed sensitive, shall I continue.......
klutchdust 04/06/21 09:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Chassis noise

Thank you to all the great comments and suggestions. Finding a Ford dealer that has a lift in their shop large enough for an RV is difficult. I finally found one, almost 100 miles from where I live and have made an appointment. Shops that do truck wheel alignment are also possibilities. The dealer most likely will blame it on the rv builder and the rv builder on the chassis builder. Welcome to the life of the rv'er.
klutchdust 04/04/21 01:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What to do about old gas in tank

I keep seeing stabil mentioned. Doing my due diligence, Star tron is a better product allowing fuel to last up to 2 years vs 1 year for stabil. Sea Foam is just very expensive naptha. Stabil is very expensive naptha, with secret ingredient. Red dye? Star tron I have not deciphered yet. I have switched over to Star tron because Stabil has failed miserably in my small yard and machinery engines. Sea Foam worked well in my MB 300D. Looks like Star Tron is also very expensive naptha according to the MSDS. https://chemoventory.tcc.fl.edu/chemoventory/msds/_STARTRON_476.pdf Maybe the 5% proprietary addition is the magic....:E
klutchdust 04/03/21 12:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What to do about old gas in tank

I keep seeing stabil mentioned. Doing my due diligence, Star tron is a better product allowing fuel to last up to 2 years vs 1 year for stabil. Sea Foam is just very expensive naptha. Stabil is very expensive naptha, with secret ingredient. Red dye? Star tron I have not deciphered yet. I have switched over to Star tron because Stabil has failed miserably in my small yard and machinery engines. Sea Foam worked well in my MB 300D.
klutchdust 04/02/21 02:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Utilizing Refrigerator While Driving to RV Park

I would agree with the 24 hours, same issue with the frig on our travel trailer....never thought it was going to cool down.....thanks for the response. I use blocks of ice in my fridge and freezer while it's cooling down. Also pre cool any soft drinks etc you may carry in the fridge and keep cardboard out of there as it absorbs and holds heat. Keep your maintenance up on the heat vent on the backside of the fridge accessible by removing the outside cover.
klutchdust 03/31/21 11:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Chassis noise

Don't forget the tail shaft of the transmission. Most likely drive shaft. Rarely do carrier bearings and universal joints fail on that new of a vehicle, but it is possible.
klutchdust 03/31/21 10:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Torquing tire stud by hand

The Budd wheel nut and stud assemblies are notorious for seizing up, especially the stud to wheel stud piece. Anti seize is a must. "Not unless the manufacturer spec's it!" Do as you please. Good luck.:R You do know what a Budd wheel is right?
klutchdust 03/27/21 08:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Torquing tire stud by hand

Lots of wild claims here. 200ft lbs over the proper torque and 1” drive impacts? Or some reeeeallly bad shops. And considering I’ve never even seen a socket small enough for a light vehicle lug that would fit on a 1” drive, they actually reduced it down to use a, what, 20lb impact wrench? Wheel torque nut specifications Torque all wheels to 450-500 ft. lbs. (610-678 NM). It is recommended that wheel nuts be re-torqued after the first 50 to 100 miles of operation. For use on American-made vehicles with dual rear wheels Extra deep design conveniently lets you remove both nut and stud with just one socket High strength steel construction means socket can be used with a 1 inch square drive impact wrench 1-1/2 inch hex with 13/16 inch square Sold individually; also available as part of OTC's no. 1944 5-Piece Import and Domestic Budd Wheel Nut Socket Set . The Budd wheel nut and stud assemblies are notorious for seizing up, especially the stud to wheel stud piece. Anti seize is a must.
klutchdust 03/26/21 08:39am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Torquing tire stud by hand

I look at it this way it is you money if you feel better doing it do it. Don't listen to no one but your self. Sure, but it is also important to post fact based information.
klutchdust 03/23/21 10:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How long to bring slide in and drive off?

I traveled solo and when stopping for the night in a truck stop/rest area etc I would put my rear slide out. Once I got up I would push the button and be ready to go in a matter of minutes. My front slide required a slide lock to be put in place so that took a few extra minutes. The one time my slide lock was not in place the slide bracket broke and my slide came out about 6 inches. driving down I-15 As mentioned, my rigs never move until I do a complete walk around and inspection and tire kick. Especially if you are towing behind your MH.
klutchdust 03/22/21 01:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Torquing tire stud by hand

"Since the primary duty of a trailer tire is supporting a vertical load, rather than gripping an automobile through turns, trailer tires do not have to be dynamically balanced like passenger car tires do. Steering and cornering are less of a concern on a trailer tire than they are on an automotive tire." I haven't balanced any of my trailer tires nor was ever asked to have it done by the tire shops. Is there a difference in a balanced tire? Asked this question, and read multiple responses from tire manufacturers etc. Interesting. I absolutely insist on tires for anything, including trailers to be balanced. Balancing has to do with ride quality and vibration, and if you have out of balance wheels, its like the trailer is being driven on a dirt or gravel road 100% of the time. It loosens electrical connections, it makes things move around in cabinets, cabinet doors to come open and things to fall out, can cause water leaks, and generally wreak havoc on the trailer and everything in it. You also suffer from additional suspension wear, bolts and bushings, shocks if you have them, all take a beating with out of balance tires. Airstreams for example, will pop rivets if they have a rough ride, and so Airstreamers are very attuned to having the smoothest possible ride for the trailer. Wheel balancing has nothing to do with cornering ability on any vehicle, but has everything to do with the life of your trailer. Think what condition your house would be in if you suffered minor earthquakes every day? Cracked sheetrock, cabinets coming loose from the walls, etc. Charles I posted this for those that have limited knowledge so they can decide for themselves. It comes from engineers not me. As far as Airstreams "popping rivets" I built Great dane trailers back in my youth and we used the same rivets that are used to build Airstreams using the same methods. Big rig trailers carry 40,000 pounds and have unbalanced tires and we did not see broken or popped rivets on units that were many many years old. I have never heard of this happening or had issues with any trailers i owned vibrating nor could I feel it with my tow vehicle and I have pulled many different trailers thousand of miles. Some RV's use pop rivets for their paneling, Airstreams use "bucked" rivets like aircraft use. I am glad that you have found a smooth ride for your travels. I just don't know of anyone, personally, that balances their trailer tires.
klutchdust 03/22/21 10:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery & electrical questions

When my coach was on ground power the chassis battery would be dead in 2 weeks from all the parasitic drains. I plugged a battery monitor into the 120 wall outlet that were hot from the ground power and plugged the other end into the accessory port on the dashboard. Problem solved. I like Charles recommendation when using your slides. Mine required that .
klutchdust 03/22/21 10:42am Class C Motorhomes
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