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 > Your search for posts made by 'ktmrfs' found 519 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Cell Booster Question

the more gain you need, the closer the phone needs to be to the inside antenna. The more gain you need the higher in the air you want the outside antenna. The more gain you need the more directional you want the outside antenna. We have the Weboost RV setup. in areas where the signal level w/o the booster is in the -100 to -110db range a omni outside antenna and being within a few feet of the internal antenna. When the singnal level is in the -110 db or lower, the phone needs to be in the cradle antenna and the outside antenna sometimes needs to be a yagi. And in any case, the amount of boost you get depends on how close you are to the inside antenna. If all you need is voice phone service or messaging, the lower your signal can be. If you want internet you want as strong a signal as possible which is best achieved by the phone being in the inside antenna cradle. As an example this last weekend I was in a place with a unboosted signal level of -110db, voice but very marginal internet. with the weboost on and the internal antenna about 4 ft away the signal was near -100db, not bad, very good for voice marginal for internet. With the phone in the cradle signal level was -80db, very very good for internet.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 09:49am Technology Corner
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

microair rocks the world I went with Westinghouse 2500 to gain a little bit more overhead in the same small package.I'd put $500 into a better generator that has lots of uses around the house before I'd spend $350 on a one trick pony that can do nothing else. YOMV. whatever works best. For me, a generator that is easy to cart around and the microair $300 has worked out well. Just talked to our RV tech. They've installed the Microair and EasyStart. We plan to do that too to run one AC with our Honda eu2000. In Idaho you may run into a problem with the 2000. Based on my brothers who lives in souther idao's experience, and mine, with the easy start the 2000 will easily start the AC even in eco mode and then comes the issue. the 2000 runs out of "omph" at about 4000-5000ft on a hot day (6000+ft density altitude). and the easy start will start to cycle the AC on and off. The nice thing it is catches the overload BEFORE the 2000 does so it will shut the AC off for 5 minutes then try a restart. sometimes it keeps running sometimes it shuts off again. Now either of us tried installing the high altitude jets in the 2000, that's worth a try and may solve the problem. Sometimes it would run for 30+ minutes then cycle, sometimes only 10 minutes. depended on altitude and temperature. He is often camping at 6-7K ft. I had loaned him one of my 2000's till the 2200's we ordered came in. What he found is that the honda 2200 will run consistently at 7000+ ft all day long. the few extra watts AND a much larger motor makes a world of difference.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 10:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

microair rocks the world I went with Westinghouse 2500 to gain a little bit more overhead in the same small package.I'd put $500 into a better generator that has lots of uses around the house before I'd spend $350 on a one trick pony that can do nothing else. YOMV. whatever works best. For me, a generator that is easy to cart around and the microair $300 has worked out well.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine braking now vs then.

"In 2009 I towed our 5ver over the Creston Salmo pass in BC with an 03 Duramax. I manually placed the truck in low gear and listened to the engine rev to over 5000 rpm as it struggled to hold back the gcvw of about 21000 lbs... about 35 mph." 2003 Duramax LB7-----REV Limiter set at 3250 rpm :H I have a US Gear 4" exhaust brake on my 5.9L Cummins Truck/trailer combo 22k Exhaust brake 6% grade----55 mph Glad to see exhaust braking OEM ------ great tool for diesel trucks nope! duramax with grade brake or exhaust brake shuts off fuel and will rev to 5000rpm. friction increase as the cube of RPM so doesn't take much increase in rpm to increase braking. If duramax goes above 5,000 it will shift up a gear regardless of what the gear slector is in. That's why the tach goes to 5K. And why GM eliminated the redline above 3200 because people weren't reading the diesel suppliment owners manual on how the grade brake/exhaust brake works and what rpm it can go to. To the OP's comment. I had (son now has) an 04.5 duramax with grade brake only, and now a 15.5 with exhaust brake. While the grade brake feature provides significant retardation, it is no where near as effective as the exhaust brake.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cell Phone Booster Antenna

I have one of the fibreglass RV wash poles that colapses and I just attach the antenna with built in ground plane to the pole, extend it out and then drop it into a 3' long tube I have welded to the back bumper. then feed the cable through the window. I can either attach an omni or yagi directional antenna to the pole depending on how far we are from cell service.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:01pm Technology Corner
RE: Shock question. Please point me in the right direction

again, I'll say the bilsteins. on my 2004.5 I installed bilsteins at about 10K miles. the difference was dramatic both loaded and unloaded. The factory shocks IMHO aren't valved well for either unloaded or loaded riding. The bilsteins are still working well on the truck (now our sons) at 200K miles. When we got our 2015 I put bilsteins on as soon as I could get them. again factory valving on the stock shocks wasn't what I liked. In both cases I used the HD yellow units. there is a firmer set for lifted suspensions or larger tires which the claim is a stiffer ride with stock suspension. I think the HD yellows are a 4500 or 4600 series while the blue units are the 5100 series.
ktmrfs 07/19/19 09:37am Travel Trailers
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

the 2200 is a HUGE improvement over the 2000 especially as you get above sea level. I had a 2000 and it would not reliably start my AC at sea level. I did get the easy start and the 2000 would easily start the AC at 5000ft but after a few minutes overload. Now with the 2200 at 5000+ft for me and 7000ft my brother is at the 2200 will easily run the AC all day. And at 4500ft a fellow camper had a 13.5K BTU AC and we on a lark decided to see if a 2200 would start it without the easy start. turned off eco mode, started the AC and the 2200 barely grunted to get it started and again continued to run. at 4500ft the 2200 has over 300W of margin. I can run the AC AND the fridge on electric with no overload. IMHO the biggest reason is that the 2200 has a much larger engine, something like 125cc vs the 2000 so altitude doesn't affect the output near as much as the smaller engine on the 2000 does.
ktmrfs 07/19/19 08:57am Tech Issues
RE: Current GM / Chevy Reliability

my 04.5 duramax is close to turning 200K with minimal issues. front wheel bearings, which was a known issue that latest bearings fixed. One injector under warranty, other than that pretty reliable. 2015.5 just turned 50K. yes, it had the (in)famous DEF heater failure that the dealer fixed quickly no questioned asked along with a free loaner car. And a onstar module that failed and was replaced under warranty again no issues getting it covered. I'd buy another in a heartbeat. But IMHO GM, Ford, Dodge are such good rigs that it's more a matter of what YOU like best, not what I like best.
ktmrfs 07/18/19 03:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: We Boost and 5 G?

if you are far enough away to need a booster you currently are WAY away from any 5G. In fact if your out of the central area of major cities, you are far away from 5G. I can't currently imagine camping in any area near 5G service. 4G another story
ktmrfs 07/18/19 03:10pm Technology Corner
RE: Which Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger To Buy

the first limitation you may run into is likely driven by your generator. A 2000W generator will run a 60A PD fine, 75A or bigger is a possible issue with a generator overload at full current. The PD units have a bad power factor and draw more current than you calculate from the watts rating. A 100A is definitely a no no with a 2000W generator. If you have a 1000W or so generator stay with the 45A. A 3000W or so generator, no issues. I have 4 GC batteries and what I did was replace the WFCO with a 55A PD unit and added a 75A PD deck mount in the pass through and wired it off a seperate breaker. So.... when boondocking with one honda 2000 I use the 55A to charge, if I happen to have the honda 2000's paralleled I turn both on and get about 120A into the bank when deep discharged. speeds up the charging to 80% or so.
ktmrfs 07/15/19 09:07am Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifier ?

a compressor dehumidifer suitable for a RV will draw about 1-2 amps max, no where near what an AC uses. Ours draws less than 2 amps and will pull 5 gallons of water/day out of the trailer during humid fall/spring days at the coast. They are basically a VERY small unvented AC unit. room air passes over the cooling side to extract water, the heat side is just vented into the room. The electronic dehumidifiers typically use a peltier device (semiconductor) , not very efficient, nor will they remove enough moisture if you are in a situation where the humidity feels high. Cool (pun intended) I sit corrected. Could you give me a link towards a "compressor dehumidifier suitable for a RV"? I'd love to have one myself that relatively sips power. I would then relegate my peltier version to my upstairs closet. haier makes almost all of the portable dehumidifiers available, some under their name, most under "house brands" or sold brand name of major appliance companies. common sizes are from about 30 pints (sounds a lot bigger than 3.75 gallons!) up to about 90 pints. Unless your trailer is quite large with lots of room a 30 pint will probably do you well. That's what we have and the first day we fire it up on a trip with humidity I'll empty it twice, then maybe once/day. Take a trip to Lowes, Home Depot, Wallmart, etc and take a look and buy what seems to best suite your fancy and you have room for. the bigger the less times you will need to empty, the smaller the easier it is to store and be out of the way when running. Almost all have an outlet port to drain directly into a drain rather than the bucket if you want. Haven't used that feature. We have the haier 30 pint. It has a manual humidity dial, I looked for it online, since it is a few years old, it looks like it has been replaced with something different. the old "new model year". same basic functions. It draws about 15 amps on average from the battery bank when running on the inverter, so we've used during part of the daytime when boondocking relying on the roof and portable solar to run it along with other stuff and still keep the batteries charged.
ktmrfs 07/14/19 07:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dehumidifier ?

My only concern with using the electric heater and AirCon together is the amperage draw if both kick on at the same time. That can easily exceed your 30amp system. I had to be too cold with the Air to keep the humidity down and not sweat in bed in my Wolf Pup last year. If possible temperature wise, a cracked window and a vent fan on works better. I did buy and use one off those electronic dehumidifiers. It helped some, not near as effective as a compressor type, but uses much less power. A compressor type D/H uses power similar to an AC unit. It will eat up most of your available power. a compressor dehumidifer suitable for a RV will draw about 1-2 amps max, no where near what an AC uses. Ours draws less than 2 amps and will pull 5 gallons of water/day out of the trailer during humid fall/spring days at the coast. They are basically a VERY small unvented AC unit. room air passes over the cooling side to extract water, the heat side is just vented into the room. The electronic dehumidifiers typically use a peltier device (semiconductor) , not very efficient, nor will they remove enough moisture if you are in a situation where the humidity feels high.
ktmrfs 07/14/19 06:01pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dehumidifier ?

It depends on the ambient humidity and outside temperature. It is entirely possible to have a situation where the air in the rv is uncomfortably wet. The solution is to add some heat which basically turns the roof air into a huge dehumidifier. If you have an oversized air/con, there is some truth to your idea as it will force the air/con to run longer to remove the heat you are adding which by default will provide more moisture removal. But the OP said the air/con runs "pretty constant" which to me suggests it shouldn't need the heater trick to get the dehumidifying effect as it's already running enough to pull the humidity out of the air. Which leads to the question...what is really happening? given the size of the trailer the OP mentioned, I wonder if the AC fan is running but the AC compressor is cycling, which can be the case depending on how the thermostat and AC are set up. If that is the case, a compressor driven dehumidifier may be the solution.
ktmrfs 07/14/19 08:57am Travel Trailers
RE: 18,000 BTU Suburban heater for a 30'x 8' cargo trailer?

35K unit barely works in our TT down near freezing. IMHO 18K isn't going to make you happy. May keep you from freezing, but not be comfortable.
ktmrfs 07/12/19 08:35am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Trailer length restrictions

If I'm in doubt I call and talk to a camp host to discuss. What I've found is that any of the following can restrict access. I have found no consistency is length limit limitations or what limits the length. 1) road to narrow and to sharp of turns to navigate. The worst case, something I NEVER want to experience first hand, but have been through campgrounds in my truck that would have been really bad had the trailer been hooked up. 2) road to narrow to get backed in even though sites are plenty long enough. often coupled with older sites with back in sites at a 90 degree angle rather than a shallow angle. 90 degree back in angle, narrow site, narrow road= tough or impossible job to get backed in. 3) sites easy to get into but clearly to short. I've been to places that said nothing over 24 ft and I regularly visit and have plenty of sites I can get my 32Ft trailer into.
ktmrfs 07/10/19 07:29pm Travel Trailers
RE: Any tips for installing a cover, without a roof ladder?

I really need to get a cover on my trailer. As it sits in storage it's really starting to fade one side of the trailer. I bought a cover and tried putting it on by throwing the lashes over the top and pulling it over but couldn't do it. My trailer does not have a built-in ladder to access the roof. My understanding is if it doesn't have a ladder that means I'm not supposed to walk on the roof. And the roof is a bit rounded on top, so sketchy to walk on. Any tips for putting a cover on in this situation? toss your "understanding" My trailer has no roof ladder, has a huge back window, but the mfg still lists the roof as walkable. In fact I'd say unless the mfg says the roof is NOT walkable it is walkable. I have an orchard ladder (3 legged so it is stable on virtually any ground) tall enough to reach the top off the roof and it just carry mine up then put it on.
ktmrfs 07/09/19 06:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Battery charged but RV won't run on house batteries

unless you have an inverter (properly wired) the batteries won't run ANY 120V appliances, like the GFI outlets. All the batteries power are the 12V lights (likely all the lights), fridge on gas, furnace, WH on gas, etc. No microwave, No AC, maybe no TV etc. Do the battery(s) have a disconnect that is turned off? Many trailers have a 12V disconnect switch to keep the batteries from discharging from loads like the propane/smoke detectors, radio on standby etc.
ktmrfs 07/09/19 06:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Jake vs Exhaust Brake

Would take a heck of a lot of modding to stuff a engine that uses a Jake brake in a pick up. If I'm not mistaken, I think Cummins invented the Jake Brake and granted it's use for all semi engines but some mfr's may offer their own version of a Jakeibetween 1600-2000 to get the best retarding power. Exhaust brakes offered by Ford, GM & Ram are better than nothing and from what I gather, folks seem to be quite happy w/ them. Clessie Cummins, one of the founders of what became Cummins engine is credited with the invention of the jake brake in the late 50's. It was granted a patent in the early 60's. I think by that time he was not associated with Cummins and when he went looking for someone to market it, Jacobs mfg was the only taker, which, relates to how it got it's name, Jake brake. Jacobs started mfg it in about 1961 IIRC. BTW it's the same Jacobs that makes 3 jaw drill chucks.
ktmrfs 07/09/19 06:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Endurance failure

Or run good quality LT tires if they fit yer covered wagon. therein lies the problem. Finding a 15" LRD let alone LRE LT tire. I have yet to find any. And switching to 16" isn't worth it to me. Between myself and a couple of neighbors we've logged well over 200K miles with ST tires and no blowouts. Me, only about 50K, but one neighbor has close to 200K towing a big enclosed trailer no issues. I'll stick to ST's and a TPMS unless a future trailer has 16" tires to start with.
ktmrfs 07/07/19 09:28am Travel Trailers
RE: Endurance failure

Or install a tire pressure monitoring system and check regularly while driving instead of every 2-4 hours. Low pressure is not just going to conveniently happen at your rest stops and fuel stops. x2. that kept me from a couple of potential blowouts
ktmrfs 07/07/19 09:24am Travel Trailers
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