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 > Your search for posts made by 'landyacht318' found 140 matches.

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RE: Which Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger To Buy

I once had him try and tell me that two spanking new group 31 TPPL agms in parallel could not accept more than 75 amps when depleted to a resting 12.19v over 0 gauge wiring. When the hundred amp, physically larger and heavier unit finally arrived, those batteries ,depleted to same rested voltage, accepted 97 amps for close to 45 minutes before voltage rose to 14.7 and amps began to taper. People recommend what is best for their bottom line/job security and or what strokes their ego. Honor and max profit are now diametrically opposed. The well Informed customer needs no recommendations from product purveyor, and can only hope the product meets its performance claims. The uninformed customer hopes and prays and likely shuns collecting data with the proper tools and efforts to collect it, and calls it faith. At least he did not recommend a replacement wfco saying they now fixed the inability to seek a voltage other than 13.6v.
landyacht318 07/17/19 09:27pm Tech Issues
RE: 1979 dodge mobile traveler 360cl wont pass emissions

The humor continues. The OP likely does not have the finances to buy anything newer, thus why they signed up to this forum, just to ask a question on how to get their likely new to them antique RV, that they are intending to live full time within, to pass a smog test. Seems highly unlikely he she/them are just fans of 1979 vintage RV's. They likely have confused CO, with CO2, and have little to no ability to work on their own stuff, much less diagnose issues. Changing the Spark plugs and an oil change, could be the near limits of their abilities, and they came here hoping someone with lots of experience with that particular RV/ engine combo could point them in the least expensive direction so they could get that magic legal sticker/ paper, and worry instead, about all the other things that those with limited finances worry about. But please elaborate more about your multiple antique vehicles and how great you are. I'm sure the OP, if they ever bother returning, is in complete awe.
landyacht318 07/14/19 05:48pm Tech Issues
RE: 1979 dodge mobile traveler 360cl wont pass emissions

Try and find the humor in your waste of time. I like the recommendation that the owner of a 40 year old rv just buy something newer, because obviously they have lots of money laying around, and they came to a RV internet forum for help as all the high $$ mechanics in their area were dumbfounded. Regarding Co vs CO2, how many threads on this forum have had questions or comments about about the parasitic draw of their CO2 detector, and specify it as co2 multiple times? Nazifornia lists no allowable CO2% parameters, but Utah does? Seems unlikely.
landyacht318 07/14/19 01:35pm Tech Issues
RE: 1979 dodge mobile traveler 360cl wont pass emissions

The OP is in Utah, It would be nice to see a printout of all the things they are testing for, in Utah, to make any guess as to what might be the issue. In California, which is likely the strictest of any state regarding allowable exhaust emissions: ---CO is measured as a percentage, and my TBI '89 LA 318(5.2l) Dodge is allowed 0.5% at 15mph and 0.64% at 25mph. ----CO2 is given as a percentage, but no maximum or minimum allowable % is listed, mine just measured 13.3% at both 15 and 25mph. ------O2 is listed as a percentage, but no min or max allowable % is listed, Mine measured 2.4 an 2.5% at 15 and 25mph. It is difficult for me to imagine that Utah has stricter requirements than California in regards to CO2%, and that California does not state the allowable limits clearly, while Utah does. So I urge the OP to recheck whether the CO2 or the CO is the issue as many people confuse the 'two'. HydroCarbons, in California, are measured in PPM and the max allowed for my vehicle is 102PPM at 15mph, and 120PPM at 25mph. NO is measured in PPM, and my vehicle's max allowed is 1010 at 15mph and 870 at 25mph. Yes, the drive axle is put up on rollers during the test on OBD1( 1996) or older vehicles in my county/zipcode in this state. More rural areas likely are not. They do visual inspection of the presence all the original smog related components, but they do not test the actual output of the smog pump, or see if the pintle is moving as it should on the EGR valve. The Intake crossover is designed to heat the carb/throttle body of a cold engine faster, and should have no effect on the smog numbers once it is hot. All vehicles should be at full temperature when smog tested. Note that while the engine coolant might take 10 minutes to read its maximum, the oil takes much longer to warm up and it is much better if it is at full temperature when the vehicle is Smog tested. The intake crossover is designed to allow better driveability and lower emissions with a cold engine, while it is warming up, and should have zero effect on hot smog numbers. If they were testing for the function of this feature as to the Smog numbers, they would have to start with an overnight cold engine. Obviously they cannot, and do not. The bimetal spring operated valve on the passsenger side exhaust manifold of my 1989 318, which redirects gasses through the intake manifold on mine is broken, I have clamped it off fully open, and it never redirects any air through my intake manifold. It has been this way for my last 7 California smog tests(14 years), all of which I have passed the first try. It is visually inoperable, with hose clamps compressing aluminum foil on the shaft to prevent it from rattling or leaking. A well running engine should have little issue passing a smog test. My Smog test cost 73 dollars yesterday, and they knocked off money to this total, after I told them I would have the engine cover removed when I brought it in. Forcing the smog tech to do this is not going to make them happy, and they might not spend the time to make sure it is as hot as it should be for the sniffer part of test. When smog techs see an RV or a VAN and especially conversion vans with teh frou frou engine covers, they sigh audibly, and most stations charge significantly more for these vehicles because of the engine cover removal and return, can be a tedious and annoying, time consuming process. There are all sorts of products, Like CRC 'guaranteed to pass' which are primarily designed as fuel and combustion chamber cleaners which should help lower the CO NO an HC's. These fuel add products have high levels of poly ether amine, PEA, which is supposed to clean the intake valves and combustion chamber without leaving any residue of its own. Other Fuel system cleaner type products have PEA, not all of them do. These are said to be most effective in cleaning the combustion chamber and intake valves, when heat cycling the engine, hot and cold, as opposed to a long drive on the highway. They are not add to the tank and then immediately take it to the test facility style of products. One needs to burn them though ~15 gallons of fuel so they have the time to do their job. Some swear by adding ethanol to the gas to help pass smog tests immediately. DeNatured alcohol is Ethanol, with toxic denaturants added to keep drunks from swilling it, and government from taxing it, yet at ~8$ a liter is hardly inexpensive. One might be able to simply add some E85 to their gas tank and be able to pass the sniffer test. Lots of people swear by water decarbonization of intake valves and combustion chambers which will help the engine to run cleaner and more efficiently. To do so, One needs to mist distilled water into the intake, while feathering gas pedal to not allow the engine to stall while doing so. One must be careful to not allow it to hydrolock. Obviously there is a huge risk if done improperly. I've never done so. The smog tests are a bit asinine in some ways, as the smog pump itself injects so little air into the exhaust stream that its intent to help further burn any unburnt hydrocarbons is likely ineffective, and all it does is add parsitic drag to the engine making it less efficient. My spark timing is to be set at 10 degrees before top dead center and needs to be within 3 degrees of this to pass smog. They do test this with a timing light. My engine runs so much smoother and better with timing set at ~16 degreees. I have no proof it is more efficient and makes lower smog numbers at 16 degrees BTDC, but I do bust out the timing light every two years, twice, once before and once after the test. My Smog pump tends to seize quickly if disconnected, so I just leave mine operable to make extra putt putt noises, and rob my engine of HP and torque, and in general irritate me.
landyacht318 07/13/19 04:15pm Tech Issues
RE: 1979 dodge mobile traveler 360cl wont pass emissions

Just passed California smog test with a 318. @25mph and 1415rpm %co2 13.3 %O2 2.5 Hc 83ppm---max allowable 102 CO% 0.09-----------------0.64 NO 118------------------870
landyacht318 07/12/19 03:51pm Tech Issues
RE: The Best Quality 200-Amp Solenoid I Have Yet Seen

Have any experience with 'contactors'? The colehersee 200 amp solenoid I installed was in someone else's rig and was feeding a Crown group 31 AGM battery, which did not have a CCA rating nor appear capable of accepting very high currents nor support high voltage during higher amperage discharge. I do not personally use a solenoid but make use of manual switches, and with only one battery now, I pretty much never turn them. Seen some rather robust winch solenoids, I guess one just could ignore the studs which reverse current to the winch: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41P5ek-%2BP8L.jpg width=350 Look easy enough to take apart and inspect the guts. Blue $eas $ells $ome 250 amp continuou$ $olenoid$ that look pretty burly. Did I adequately imply they are not inexpensive? https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51arSZj68yL.jpg width=375
landyacht318 07/11/19 01:41pm Tech Issues
RE: The Best Quality 200-Amp Solenoid I Have Yet Seen

My buddy purchased an extremely similar looking 200 amp solenoid. When it arrived I was disappointed in the size of the main terminals. Fitting a 4gauge thick walled ring terminal on them, a very small portion of that would actually be passing the current and they are so close together than making tight fitting copper washers to slide over ~3/16 diameter studs to increase surface area would be kind of pointless. I most recently employed Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid, that claims to have silver tungsten carbide internal contacts.At least it has 5/16" studs that thick walled ring terminals did not completely dwarf.
landyacht318 07/11/19 12:33am Tech Issues
RE: Has anyone used a Tekonsha 2024-07 12V DC to DC

I have an 18Ah AGM, the UB12180, though the one I have is marketed towards the stereo boom boom crowd, and is called a '600 watt' battery. I suspect it is just the UB12180 with a different sticker. Anyway, I have depleted this battery to well below 50%, and hooked it to my 40 amp power supply, set at 14.7v. Peak amperage was 36, to raise voltage that high instantly. This quickly fell to 32 amps and about 5 minutes later it was still accepting 25 amps at 14.7v. Max charge rate listed for the UB12180 is 5.4 amps! No mushroom cloud exceeding that rate by several fold. The 25 amps was holding steady when I could not be around to monitor battery temperature, so I lowered voltage until only ~ 10 amps were flowing, and then raised it back up on subsequent passes back upto 14.7v and held it there until amps stopped tapering. Even 10 amps is well above the 'max' 5.4 amp charging rate. No mushroom cloud. This battery has, by itself started my 2 week cold 5.2 liter v8 engine in warm ambient temperatures. My dual wattmeters inline on the dual 8awg cable recorded close to 1800 watts of draw on the battery with their peak watts added together. No mushroom cloud. This battery in parallel with my fully charged regular group 27 AGM battery, will provide 50 amps assist, when starting the motor over a single pair of 8awg wires. This number varies depending on the state of charge of the 27. No mushroom cloud. Obviously, I would not be discharging this thing to below 50% at huge discharge rates on a regular basis, nor regularly exceeding its max recommended charge rate by a factor of 6 on a regular basis, but some seem to think that the mushroom cloud is just around the corner if it sees either too high a charge or discharge rate once. I'd not be searching for any product to keep the generator battery healthy, I'd occassionally parallel it with the regular batteries when they are being held at absorption voltages, bring it to ~14.7v for a few hours each week. This can be as simple as whatever length of 18AWg lamp wire you can salvage, hooked to the battery and a ciggy plug. These chinese AGMS do not have super low self discharge like higher quality AGMs, but they don't need a constant trickle charge either in my opinion, especialy one that does not consider battery temperature and vary voltage accordingly. If thee small chinese AGMS are unintentionally deeply discharged, I would feed them no less than 30% of their rated capacity upto their absorption voltage, and the UB/UPG batteries list a 14.5 to 14.9v absorption voltage in 'cylic' duty. If you look at the UPG or UB battery spec sheets the max rate is always 30% of their capacity. There are loads of DC voltage boosters online. I got a 150 watt one for less than 3$ shipped slow boat from china. So far all I have used it for is making 12v fans levitate at 27 volts, but I would have little issue using it to EQ a battery or as a inline voltage booster for too thin and too long of wire feeding a distant battery.
landyacht318 07/07/19 03:10pm Tech Issues
RE: charging batteries with truck

And I don't buy that alternator story dropping to 13.2v within a few minutes. Doesn't matter what you 'buy'. You have no data proving otherwise, on any vehicle but perhaps your own, but you are of course welcome to your opinion. I've personally seen 2 GMs, 2014 and newer, decide 12.7v cruising down the highway was fine and dandy with very occassional times above that, usually when braking or coasting. Lots of newer cars' voltage regulators will seek to keep the battery at only 12.7v, asking for higher voltages seldomly. They shiv not one git, about battery longevity, but meeting C.A.F.E, means more profit, for them. A battery kept intentionally discharged, can accept much higher amperage alternator amperage when the system asks for 14.5+ volts. Each 25 amps the alternator makes is said to eat up one engine HP. Ask for those higher voltages seldomly and when most advantageous for increasing measurable MPG as the EPA tests vehicles mileage, and manufacturers can some closer to meeting fuel economy standards across their fleets. People should measure their voltage at different times with an actual guage on the battery terminals. This forum could use more data as to which vehicle's voltage regulation needs no assist from a DC to DC charger for their house batteries, and those whose depleted batteries are doomed to see too little electrical pressure to ever do much charging going down the road.
landyacht318 07/05/19 11:57pm Tech Issues
RE: charging batteries with truck

I had nothing but issues with those 12v SAE connectors. Too hot to touch at a constant 25 amps with 10 gauge leads. And forever intermittent after such use. Go with anderson powerpoles instead.
landyacht318 07/04/19 06:13pm Tech Issues
RE: charging batteries with truck

I found maxing out my alternator charging well depleted battery over thick copper when idling parked had my alternator quickly heat to 200 f+ degrees. But I can force.it.to seek and hold 14.7v. What year, make and model vehicle and how do you force the alternator to seek and hold 14.7V ? Mines just a dodge van with an externally regulated alternator. Tricked engine computer with a resistor and modified a transpo540hd regulator with an external potentiometer to choose any voltage i want it to seek and hold.
landyacht318 07/04/19 06:09pm Tech Issues
RE: charging batteries with truck

I found maxing out my alternator charging well depleted battery over thick copper when idling parked had my alternator quickly heat to 200 f+ degrees. But I can force.it.to seek and hold 14.7v. The battery will accept 50% to 66% more amperage at 14.7 compared to 13.7, so actual charge rate will be determined ed by your vehicles voltage regulator.and 80%to100% charges still takes 3.5 hour at those higher. Voltages,so 'topping up' is delusional. And getting depleted batteries to 80% might fry your alternator, or just reduce its lifespan.
landyacht318 07/04/19 02:22pm Tech Issues
RE: What’s better in 12v batteries?

Guys with VW vanagons, that have a space under the front seat for an additional battery, were using multiple AGMs in parallel, to stuff more amp hours in the space available than the biggest car jar single battery which would fit. Seems most had issues with poor battery life/performance with that set up and nobody seems to go that route anymore Its not like the chinese 35AH AGM batteries one receives are all manufactured on the same date, same line and plant and have the same internal resistance. The stronger will feed the weaker when in parallel, and the stronger are not as happy as they could be if they were separated and fully charged. Given the preponderance of people who think hammer crimps, vice grip crimps or thin HF quality ring terminals, or those who simply crush stranded wiring under a washer, I'd be quite wary of additional unneeded connections. If multiple in parallel is decided upon, take the + and - for all loads and charging sources from batteries 1 and 3, not all on battery one or battery 3 even though this might appear to be easier or cleaner to wire up in certain rigs.
landyacht318 06/30/19 02:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Questions

Putting any faith, whatsoever, in a charger's state of charge display % in unwise in the extreme. It is entirely based on voltage, nothing else, and full charged resting voltage varies from 12.6v to 13.2 depending on teh battery and its temperature. If you even can trust the vltage display on sime chargers is another huge factor. My 2007 purchased shumachers 'intelli' charger's voltage display was off by close to 0.2 volts, when the display still worked. So dismiss any percentage your charger reads, it is completely inadmissable in any logic driven decision. Also completely dismiss any garage charger's decision that the battery is indeed fuly charged. Almost all of them will stop in the 92 to 95% range and that last 5 to 8% of charge can take several more hours at absorption voltages to achieve. Automatic 'smart' chargers, do not fully charge the battery, they are desiged primarily to NOT overcharge it. It is safer to underchaarge than overcharge or fully charge, and Lawyers......... and the brainless hyper entitled entitled dimwit of today's population, see $$$$ in this day and age of automatic everything and fingerpointing fabricated outrage. It is utterly Unwise to believe the green light on any charger that was attached to any aged battery that has seen more than a few cycles. A hydrometer will easily prove that the bttery was not fully charged when the 'smart' charger said it was. But nobody ever bothers and just assumes the green light is incapable of not telling the truth. A six pack style spiral cell battery excells over other batteries, ONLY in cases of extreme vibration and when physical strength of the case is important. They have lesser capacity per battery group size. Beware of marketing. Water any flooded battery and its voltage will soon read lower than before watering and its performance will seem to decrease, as the electrolyte/ acid solution is now weaker and not homogenous. A battery low on water will seem to retain voltage when resting and under load significantly better than one recently filled, even if the level was below the tops of the plates. I find the 'reserve capacity' rating to be nearly useless, unless one is subjecting a single battery to 20 amps and draining it to dead flat, something wise battery owners avoid. Self discharge of batteries is directly related to their temperature. the hotter they are the more they self discharge. the more impurities in the lead plate paste the faster they self discharge, the more impurities introduced when watering, the more they self discharge. the more aged and abused, the more self discharge there is
landyacht318 06/28/19 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Use a solar controller as a DC to DC charger?

I doubt your alternator is told by the voltager regulator to maintain a constant 14.4volts. Usually the 14.4v 'sought' is brief, and the voltage regulator is then dropping things into the mid to high 13s. What dictates the voltage regulator's choice of voltage is different on different makes/models/ and rigs. The length of wiring and its thickness to the house battery then affects the amount of voltage drop and the voltage reaching the battery terminals, and the battery then accepts what it wants at the voltage reaching the battery terminals, which can be quite different than the voltage at the alternator output stud. About 1/2 to 1/3 the amps will flow into a less than fully charged battery at 13.7v, compared to 14.7v reaching the battery terminals. It depends on battery resistance, but in general the newer and healthier the battery the more amperage it will accept at that voltage. The DC to DC chargers are intended to keep voltage at the house battery terminals in the 14.4v range after the vehicles voltage regulator says 13.7v is fine and dandy for the engine starting battery. The solar charge controller's are generally taking 17 volts and trying to keep the battery at one of 3 voltage 'stages'. So they are not a voltage booster, more of a voltage bucker, while the DC to DC products one hooks to the alternator are primarily boosting voltage for faster charging of house batteries. Though they can of course do the opposite too. My Vehicle either chose 14.9v or 13.7v with little regard to logic or battery state of charge. It almost always started at 14.9v and after a few minutes would drop to 13.7v, kind of infuriating when teh battery was still well less than fully charged. Randomly it would occassionally choose other voltages, and I was never able to find any reason why it chose the voltages it did. I had to trick my engine computer, where the stock voltage regulator resides, I then used an external voltage regulator which had an internal 2k ohm voltage adjustment potentiometer. I clipped the legs to this internal potentiometer, soldered wires to them, ran these wires to a 10 turn 2K ohm bourns potentiometer located on my dashboard next to voltmeters whose voltage sense leads are on teh batteries themselves. With a thick copper circuit I have seen as much as 108 amps flowing into my well depleted battery from my 120 amp externally regulated alternator at 2200+ engine rpm. 12.2 amps are required to run my ignition and fuel pump at 2K rpm. I generally choose 14.7v or 13.7v depending on temperature and how many amps the battery is accepting. This voltage regulator modification was largely possible due to the knowledge and products Mexicowanderer shared with me, the one exception as that tricking the engine computer into believing it was still connected to the alternator, thus not illuminating the check engine light and causing the engine computer to not read the sensors and adjust fuel air mix and spark timing, required a 50 watt 10 Ohm resistor, was figured out by someone else. Basically if I have the rpm I can almost always charge my battery as fast as safely possible whenever I drive, and this is awesome, but it requires that I am there to lower voltage once the battery is indeed full. I can also overheat my alternator maxing it out under 25mph, but at highway speeds I can max it out and never approach dangerous alternator temps. Improving your house battery charging via alternator can be improved with thicker wire from alternator to house battery and back, but if the voltage the alternator is told to seek is only in the high 13's, then much less charging will occur. Influencing/ tricking the alternator's voltage regulator is possible on many vehicles, but it depends on the vehicle and its alternator. The DC to DC chargers can take that 13,6v and boost it to 14.4 at house battery. One can run an inverter connected to engine battery, feeding an AC powered charger onto house batteries while driving, though this can deplete starting battery to feed house battery depending on a few factors. Essentially the Renogy or sterling or C-tek products intended to better recharge secondary batteries from an alternator, are DC Buck/Boost converters. Here is a 300 watt buck boost converter for ~14$ https://www.amazon.com/Nicknocks-Converter-Step-up-Step-Down-Adjustable/dp/B07PFDKKTF/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=Buck+Boost+Converter&qid=1560732243&s=electronics&sr=1-28 I have a 60 watt buck/boost converter I use on a 24v fan to control its speed/airflow from 7.75 to 30 volts which draws about 25 watts at 30 volts. No experience with linked product or using it for battery charging.
landyacht318 06/16/19 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

I use SAE connectors. I went this route around 12 years ago, getting many with 10AWg and 18AWG leads. The awg should be in quotes as 10AWg is actually closer to 12AWG. I had a pair on my 25 amp 'smart' charger and they would get so hot passing this much current for a half hour I could smell hot plastic. This just got worse with time, as the barrels would open up and one would have to tweak the connection to get contact. I also hated how one could unintentionally reverse the polarity so one had to label input' and 'output'. All my 12v SAE connectors and their pigtail are now in a plastic bag to be given away, and have been replaced with Anderson Powerpoles which are largely trouble free, but hardly perect.
landyacht318 06/15/19 03:29pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY MC-4 Connectors- 2nd Photo Added

Wire Nuts and tape? for shame bfl....for shame ;) My portable panels I am using 45 amp anderson powerpoles, as I use these everywhere else. Have to destrand 8AWG to 10awg thickness and shave the insulation square to get them to fit the housings. I've started my engine through a pair of these in parallel. I've kept all the MC4's I've cut off leaving a pigtail, will use them when I need a weatherproof, less temporary connection.
landyacht318 06/14/19 10:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator Fan

I have a 1.8 cubic foot 12vDC compressor fridge. I put a small low cfm, low amp draw 40MM computer fan inside of it. With the fan disconnected I need a setting of 4( of 7) to maintain sub 41F everywhere in the fridge, and the floor will be 27f or well below depending on the time of the previous door opening and the contents. With the fan on I use a setting of 2.2 to maintain 32.5f +/- 1.5f everywhere inside the fridge. The fan does add a small heat load to the fridge which then must be removed which is why I searched the lowest amp draw fan I could find. The internal fan will not make it use less power overall, but it will even out the internal temperatures greatly, and will help cool down warm items placed withing much faster, something compressor fridges do many times better than absorption fridges to begin with. As far as condenser ventilation, on exterior of fridge, this is also very important, and my condenser, which was designed to have a 120MM computer fan mounted to it, is bathed in the coolest possible ambient air that has no chance of being recycled across the condenser as the filtered air, pulled from the floor, is pushed through the condenser, across conpressor and compressor controller and out of the vehicle. or in winter into an adjacent compartment. I've No issues maintaining 32.5f or less no matter the ambinet temps, and I still have more than half the dial to turn if I want it colder. I wired my 40mmx20mm 12v interior fan to the interior light before the magnetic reed switch. It is a discontinued Sunon Maglev rated at ~6.2 CFM and 0.03 amps, and I leave it running continuously and it has been doing so since October 2012. I'd use a larger internal fan if I had a larger fridge, but there is no need to go nutty on the CFM rating. The Noctua NF-F12 is 120Mm x 25mm fan and moves 53CFM for 0.05 amps of draw, and is very good at pushing air through restrictions, like the fins on an absorption fridge, but that much CFM is likely overkill for an 8 cubic foot fridge. The most expensive 12v computer fan is in the 25$ range, and they come in many many sizes, from 25mm to 230MM, they also come in 5v and 24v versions, but the options are less numerous. If you don't want to tap into any internal wiring you could hook a 5v fan to 2 D size batteries in series for ~3.2v. Since fans draw so little juice you can also run 26 gauge wires through the door seal. I don't know just how effective internal air circulation is inside Absorption fridges, but I do know it keeps ice from clogging the fins directly in the path of the fan's flow, and it works great in my compressor fridge to cool down items placed within faster, and keep an even temperature across the whole interior, and I'd not willingly disconnect it no matter what.
landyacht318 06/12/19 03:13am Tech Issues
RE: Boondocker converters vs.Progressive converters?

I am firmly in the manual adjustable voltage camp for myself, but those who want automatic I have installed PD9245's or Iota DLS-45. I like the PD better as one can push a button once for 4 more hours of 14.4v, or 14.8 if they get the PD92xx-14.8 model version. They can also hold that button for a bit longer and force 13.6v, or hold it longer to force 13.2v. I kind of forget the Iota Algorithm, I think it applies its 45 amps until 14.8 is reached at converter ouput terminals, holds that for a while then drops to 14.2v, then after a period of time it then reverts to a lower 'float' voltage. But it is serving its owners and their Costco gc-2s well. The Powermax automatic models do not hold 14.x volts long enough in my opinion, but probably OK with healthy flooded batts when there is unlimited grid time to plug in. AGMS I say to hold Vabs until amps taper to 0.5% of capacity each and every time when doing so is possible. With manual, I basically choose 14.7v, or 13.6 on my 40 amp manual adjustable voltage meanwell power supply on an AGM battery. I will adjust those up or down for battery temperature. I have left it at 14.7v overnight many nights, long after the battery was fully charged. No mushroom cloud! Amazing! This AGM Battery is 5.5 years old and ~1100 deep cycles and least 100 of those cycles to the 30% charged range. If one can properly and fully recharge Lead acid deep cycle or even marine batteries, whether flooded or AGm or GEL, they can achieve impressive lifespans. Properly and fully almost absolutely requires a human with a brain and the wherewithall to decide how high for how long, whereas 'automatic' falls short of this, to some degree' in most instances. Automatic could certainly be good enough, especially for those whose batteres will age out with few uses per year before they cycle out, like those used by full timers mostly off grid. --- While Trojan specs a 14.82v absorption voltage, it is not as if 14.4v will not be able to fully charge the battery, it will however take longer. Trojan's 14.82v recommendation is likely based upon the fact that 14.82v is some degree less likely to allow chronic undercharging due to too little generator/grid time. They determined that a 14.82 absorption voltage recommendation is likely to reduce the amount of batteries they have to warranty. In my opinion. I think anybody generator recharging who wants 'automatic', would be best served by the PD -14.8v model even on AGMs that spec 14.7v max, and anybody who can remember to manually adjust voltage when on the grid, would be better served with adjustable voltage powermax models. My 40 amp meanwell power supply requires voltage potentiometer modification and better ventlation and heatsinking to be run flat out at max amperage, and voltage adjusted often. My Northstar AGM recommends 14.46 as Vabs. It has seen 14.7 Vabs most of its life... 5.5 years and 1100+ deep cycles. I opine that absorption voltage duration, is more important than achieving a precise Absorption voltage 'recommended' by the battery manufacturer. On lead acid batteries anyway.
landyacht318 06/08/19 01:29am Tech Issues
RE: Possible MH Engine Battery with Amp Hours Too? UPDATE

The short trips not having enough time to replenish that which the starter used to start the engine, is largely horse hockey in this day and age of quick startng fuel injected gas engines. Now if the battery was not fully charged then short trips will do little to increase that level of charge. I measured about 45 seconds for amps to taper to the same level as they were at 14.7v before and after engine starting an overnight cold engine. Mine cranks less than 1/3 the amount time when it is warm, compared to overnight cold. I've charged a few maintenance free flooded batteries inadvertently discharged to sub 11 volts according to Mex's prescription, which was 15.0 vabs, until amps taper to near zero. I did find it getting hot fairly quickly with 40 amps available so lowered the voltage to keep amps under 20 and rose it in a few stages to 15v. In fact I've done this to the same battery 3 times over the last 5 years. His radator fan sometimes stays on, or comes on when parked and runs the battery dead. I think it too is a group 48 in a BMW, mounted in the trunk.
landyacht318 06/06/19 11:37pm Tech Issues
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