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 > Your search for posts made by 'larry cad' found 146 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

I really, really, really wish people who are ignorant of the actual performance of residential refrigerators in RVs would stop spreading rumors that are just not true. Thousands of residential refrigerators are being used every day in RVs and there are no reports anywhere of massive failures. My Magic Chef has about 30000 miles and it is fine. I use it all the time when boon-docking. It's FINE!!! It uses less power than my Norcold 1200LRIM. Repeat! It uses less electric power than my 3 time failed Norcold. It runs ALL the time, as in ALL the time on power from a mod sine inverter. It stays cold. It WORKS. It is cheap. It WORKS. It is reliable. IT WORKS. I don't understand how these stupid rumors got started but they are false. Please stop spreading them.
larry cad 06/09/19 06:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Burned Neutral Wires at the Buss in the Breaker Box

Your BUSS screws will appear tight because the BUSS got hot and seized some of the screws. If you have an Open/loose Neutral on a 50 amp RV, it will usually NOT burn or melt anything. It will supply 220 to the RV and burn out some appliances The Open on a 50 amp can be at the CG pedestal or on the Shore cord or at the Main electrical breaker panel. Doug Excellent post as usual from Doug.
larry cad 06/04/19 05:13am Tech Issues
RE: Burned Neutral Wires at the Buss in the Breaker Box

Is it a 50 amp service? If its not, it's loose connections = high resistance where the burn is. Resistant at location A does not cause a burn at location B. The problem is precisely where you see it. A 50 amp service, if miswired at the source, can potentially overload the neutral. So long as it's correctly wired to 220v, the neutral carries only the DIFFERENCE between the two hot wire currents. If the source outlet has both 50 amp sources at just 110v, the neutral will carry the SUM of the two hot wire currents. No outlet should be wired at 50 amp /110-120v but you hear occasional accounts of people who've encountered a "cheater" 50 amp plug. Sounds like you know what you are talking about! Good post.
larry cad 06/04/19 05:11am Tech Issues
RE: Marcus-- Good Call on Flying Your "Big Flag"

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4-vNzNZXL5yrIEtiPSQBrZNsDbC-aPurvCegqPpWRJjteJGxrwAEAgsASg2c6auJuI9XJzcsDA4JHw7MwqbvdcC4sn6yD1EHWcOJFfRGPWmstvstfjFmvHoIXHh5H2Chf0OVQ3Llurr1pG-5ntX5EP6U3tJUybUYWatvIbeB43JHt5dlbk3NoM15y8ZjkdQyiMlwPz9FzBmLIhsYP-Zc485UjN0sawHUNUBHILGDOWWR3Zvea-SGAvaExk3g7fRUTdw123TwUo0jMZMAN-vfrnpIzBfImwKcJabwV83b_C2l3WdsyOFyZjeWl4k3FqoQh89opH27TMBC1OYxXw58KG-kEk9tr3SmFoND5dqk2WnrBzWBo4Gr6BCzpU1Et1-2734UiPSw4umcNsWlZdehjaInRcVzNNo9PqjqkaUZrjR_s58f0CQZBQI43ndyvngkQrXL0ispBHoO_8TOHQon772uAYgyN5mtBX5xAqya7hGxo_GjE21NIJA0-_lhCOaHVWk8f-NniT-9HDlYurKWZlTOpvTM382LqRzABo0JKjsI1jrdcP82Y4p5negfG37NjrKqFkzq9E8L1mEy4XKBzNRx98L1mtyBnVHCVcvtCFCtxk7gjIRj63o29I5pIuHphcHlijmHIFG2bmTESJY8GiXiZjQ0Vsk=w569-h398-no Not a huge Marcus fan, but I really like the big flag because I am a huge USA fan!
larry cad 05/27/19 04:08am Camping World Accessories
RE: Electric stairs question

The Kwikee step "On/Off" switch is confusing as to what is off and what is on. Try putting it into the on position and see if that solves your problem.
larry cad 05/19/19 05:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lost air in the rear airbags of 2000 spartan chassie

It is a good idea to carry a spare ride height control rod with you if you have a Spartan chassis. Or you can make one yourself if you are handy. Stainless all-thread rod and two pivot ends. They are known to break.
larry cad 05/02/19 08:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refriderator replacement

The OP is talking about replacing the gas absorption cooling unit in a Dometic refrigerator with a compressor-type cooling unit that runs only on electricity; it uses the same box that's already there. The company that makes it also sells replacement gas absorption cooling units (which also use the same box already there), which are often referred to as "Amish cooling units" as a generic, to distinguish them from cooling units made by Norcold or Dometic. I'm also interested in the compressor-type cooling unit, but have never found any data on how much electricity it uses in a 24-hour period, to compare it to a residential refrigerator. I have wondered the same thing. Not sure if they reuse the existing cooling coils, but clean them and circulate freon rather than ammonia. The cooling plate is encased in foam so would be difficult to remove and replace.
larry cad 04/30/19 01:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refriderator replacement

I went to the jc refrigeration website I saw the compressor cooling units Is that an Amish company? I don't see the word Amish anywhere In large letters, right up at the very top of the very first page: "Dutch Aire Amish RV Cooling Units"
larry cad 04/28/19 07:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: winterizing with compressed air

It might just be easier to learn how to do it properly. For several years I used the pink stuff, and several years ago, I decided to do the air winterize procedure. Come spring, I put water in the coach and guess what, I had a leak. Now, here is the interesting part, the leak was behind my shower, in the water control spigot. Even more interesting is the mode of failure. The water control valve has a threaded hole in the bottom, and there was a nylon 1/2" pipe plug in it. In the top side of the pipe plug, was a depression molded in during manufacturing. If you look at a nylon pipe plug, you will see it. Since the depression was facing up, it remained filled with a tiny bit of water during the winterizing. During the winter, it froze and cracked. When I put water into the system, it ran out the crack. So, as suggested above, I learned how to do it properly. Properly would be to remove the wall around my shower every winter, remove the plug, empty out the tiny bit of water remaining after I use compressed air, replace the plug, and my RV is winterized. Or, I can just use the gallon of pink stuff I always had used in the past. Even though I now know how to do it "properly"!! :S This^^^ Is why you use the pink stuff. It is simply more foolproof. Air is doable, but as mentioned there are more variables to deal with that simply are a non factor with anti freeze. :B
larry cad 04/28/19 07:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rhino hose or slinky sewer hose?

The Rhino is by far the best hose I've used. It's tough and seems to last forever. I also like the collapsing feature. Really helps storage. JMHO
larry cad 04/28/19 06:08am Beginning RVing
RE: Refriderator replacement

We have a fairly large population of Amish locally. Just because they don't/won't own it doesn't mean they won't build and or use it. I'd be interested in seeing what this new deal may be. "REPLACES NORCOLD Gas/Elect COOLING UNITS AND CONVERTS IT TO A “COMPRESSOR TYPE” COOLING UNIT" You have to scroll down to see the unit.
larry cad 04/28/19 06:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: winterizing with compressed air

It might just be easier to learn how to do it properly. Even more interesting is the mode of failure. The water control valve has a threaded hole in the bottom, and there was a nylon 1/2" pipe plug in it. In the top side of the pipe plug, was a depression molded in during manufacturing. If you look at a nylon pipe plug, you will see it. Since the depression was facing up, it remained filled with a tiny bit of water during the winterizing. During the winter, it froze and cracked. When I put water into the system, it ran out the crack. So, as suggested above, I learned how to do it properly. Properly would be to remove the wall around my shower every winter, remove the plug, empty out the tiny bit of water remaining after I use compressed air, replace the plug, and my RV is winterized. Or, I can just use the gallon of pink stuff I always had used in the past. Even though I now know how to do it "properly"!! :S You’re trying to tell us a drop of water in the depression on top of a 1/2” pipe plug froze and burst a pipe? Seriously? Water expands by 9% when it freezes. A drop of water did not expand enough to burst anything but your story. You either used way too small a compressor (probably one with little or no tank on it) or just plain did not blow the system out properly. I winterize both of my units using air only numerous times a year and have for 20++ years. Think what you want. I stand by my story. I've been on this forum for about 15 years and have provided technical help to numerous members over that time. I do ALL the repairs on my diesel motorhome and have since the beginning. BTW, my word was "tiny" amount. You chose to change that to "drop". I believe I still have the plug and will search for it someday and when I find it, I will post a photo. It was a memorable event. Happened in March. I had winterized and then set up an appointment at the American Coach factory service facility to have my windshield replaced. I drove to Decatur, arriving early evening. When I arrived, I began to put water into the system at their facility. That is when I heard water leaking behind the shower wall. I took the wall apart, found the problem (a cracked pipe plug) and found a replacement at about 8PM at O'reilys in Decatur. Continued the fill and all was good. My wife thinks I am a genius. I didn't tell her it was my fault for not knowing how to "properly" winterize. :B
larry cad 04/28/19 05:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: winterizing with compressed air

It might just be easier to learn how to do it properly. For several years I used the pink stuff, and several years ago, I decided to do the air winterize procedure. Come spring, I put water in the coach and guess what, I had a leak. Now, here is the interesting part, the leak was behind my shower, in the water control spigot. Even more interesting is the mode of failure. The water control valve has a threaded hole in the bottom, and there was a nylon 1/2" pipe plug in it. In the top side of the pipe plug, was a depression molded in during manufacturing. If you look at a nylon pipe plug, you will see it. Since the depression was facing up, it remained filled with a tiny bit of water during the winterizing. During the winter, it froze and cracked. When I put water into the system, it ran out the crack. So, as suggested above, I learned how to do it properly. Properly would be to remove the wall around my shower every winter, remove the plug, empty out the tiny bit of water remaining after I use compressed air, replace the plug, and my RV is winterized. Or, I can just use the gallon of pink stuff I always had used in the past. Even though I now know how to do it "properly"!! :S
larry cad 04/27/19 06:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dual A/C's, but only 1 duct line

We have the same situation in our 40'. We typically have only one AC on at a time. Night time we use the front one, and keep the front vents closed so it blows into the bedroom (quietly). Daytime we run the rear AC with the rear vents closed. Again, it is quiet in the front. Seems to work well for us. If it really gets warm, we can run both with what ever vents we need at the time.
larry cad 04/22/19 07:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ohio toll road E Z pass

I have forgotten the exact total but last October we went to Plymouth Rock and other areas on Geneolgy research for Relatives on the Mayflower. On the way from there to Michigan we took the toll roads including the Ohio Turnpike 80/90, I think, in jut our toad. It was nearer 200.00 than 100.00 total to where it intersects I65. I don't think we will be taking the mh and toad that way ever. It really is highway robbery and in states with some of the highest taxes in other categories. Why do you Folks that live there put up with it? The idea of the Interstate System was no tolls at all! You must have a very heavy toad. For the Ohio Turnpike: Toll Road Name: Ohio Turnpike, Ohio On Which Highways: Interstates 76, 80, 90 Connecting Cities or States: Indiana Toll Road to Pennsylvania Turnpike Cost of the Toll Road: Fixed rate based on axle, weight and distance traveled Autos: $17.50 max for full length no pass $11.75 max for length with pass Trucks: $87.50 max for full length no pass$76.00 max for full length with pass
larry cad 04/21/19 07:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2019 Bunny

:B
larry cad 04/21/19 05:23am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Help Please

I went back and re-read this thread, paying attention to the OP's posts. I don't think it is ever clear which problem(s) he is having. 1 - The house batteries don't charge from the engine alternator. 2 - The chassis batteries don't charge when on shore power. 3 - Both of the above If #1, then it is likely a bad solenoid or the circuit activating it. If #2, he need to understands the capabilities of his BCC to see if that is a supported feature. A little clarification would help. X2
larry cad 04/20/19 07:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I-77 campground

WV has a very nice welcome center close to the border on I-77. 24 hour guard on duty last time I was there. He specifically told me we could park overnight.
larry cad 04/19/19 11:08am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Ohio toll road E Z pass

I have a class A diesel MH and have my Ohio EZ Pass located up at the top of the windshield about the middle. Have never had a problem in however many years they have had this service, both in Ohio, Pa, NJ and several other states.
larry cad 04/19/19 04:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need a New Refrigerator

If it is working on propane, but not electric, as stated above, it is either the circuit board, the heating element, or possible a small glass fuse on the circuit board. I hate to say it, but your best bet may be to stay away from camping world and either have hubby fix it or find a small, private RV repair service to do it. It's not really difficult. Everything can be done through the outside access door on the side of your RV. There are even videos on youtube showing how to do it. If he has any questions, tell him to take some photos of the rear of the fridge, post them here and ask questions.
larry cad 04/17/19 02:00pm General RVing Issues
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