We are going on our 4th season with a 2012 3220BH.
We love it no large problems. I think someone already complained about the lack of outlets...first world problem right?
We had a blow out going 60. We heard it, trailer didn't move, nice and stable. The only damage was the plastic skirt.
Like Heavy Metal Doctor our search when like his.
#1 our desired towing weight range, #2 floor plan, #3 construction style / materials #4 spec's (cargo carrying rating, tank capacity, etc)
Mine scaled out for 5 days of camping at just under 7480, my gas 3/4 ton tows it with no issues.
I am very active on the lS boards. Lots of guys towing lot of miles with aluminum blocked GM trucks. I would bet money it is about well money. The cost of the aluminum LS block is almost double that of the Iron LS block.
Great photos. I live in Poulsbo and have been to all those place with my TT. Salt creek is nice. Thanks for sharing.
I have two Ft Flagler trips planned for this summer, you have to get reservations 9 months to the day for the summer months. It is difficult. I managed to get one right on the beach in August for this year.
TSB #00-06-02-006D: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information (Aug 15, 2006)
Portion of the bulletin that talks about Sealing Tabs and Dex-Cool
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL® and water. DEX-COOL® is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL® with poor quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL®.
DEX-COOL® is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL®, some batches may appear pink after time. The color shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Only use DEX-COOL® if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL®.
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL® will degrade the service interval from 5 yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL®.
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL® and has not had problems with contamination from non-DEX-COOL® coolants, then the service interval remains the same, and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km).
Think about the head gaskets
TSB #05-06-02-001: Information on Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check should be preformed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Technician Diagnosis•Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be flushed.
•Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information (SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
•Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor. Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL®
Important: The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL®, P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior to the introduction of DEX-COOL®, maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the Owner's Manual.
•If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
•If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with DEX-COOL®, P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M, following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
•If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL®, P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration levels should be between 50% and 65%.
From GM Techlink March 2004:
Cooling System Seal Tabs What’s made of ground-up ginger root, almond shells and binder? And causes confusion in auto service departments?
Some people call them coolant pellets, but the proper name is Cooling System Seal Tabs. And we hope to clear up some misunderstandings about them.
How They Work
Seal tabs are dissolved in the engine coolant and the resulting fibres circulate through the cooling system. At a microscopic level, the tabs break down into irregular, long, thin fibres. When a small leak or seepage occurs, the coolant carries the fibres into the opening, where they cluster up and jam together. (Think of logs and branches in a beaver dam.) This mechanism is very effective at stopping leaks. Any fibres that make it to the surface will crust over and enhance the seal.
This sealing method is useful only for small-scale leaks and seepage, and tends to work best in conditions where the surrounding parts aren’t moving. The seals tend to break down in areas between metals that are expanding and contracting with temperature changes, for instance.
A Secondary Benefit
The traditional green-colored coolant, used until DEXCOOL® was introduced in 1996, contained silicates, which deposit on cooling system surfaces. The tiny fibres from the seal tabs acted as scouring pads, removing silicate deposits from the water pump seal faces, which contributed to longer water pump seal life.
Side Effects of Seal Tabs
In addition to the benefits of sealing small leaks and scrubbing silicates from water pump seals, seal tabs also have some side effects.
After awhile, a brown, dirty-looking stain may form on translucent coolant bottles. Residue may form on the backside of the radiator cap. And deposits that resemble rust may be found in the cooling system.
These are not problems, in the sense that they cause no physical harm. But their appearance can be alarming, especially on a new vehicle. Both customers and well-intentioned technicians can be misled by these deposits.
Another side effect comes from overuse. When seal tabs are used in the prescribed amounts, they will not cause restrictions or plugging in an otherwise properly operating cooling system.
But, if a little is good, a lot must be better. Wrong!! Overuse can lead to plugging, especially in the relatively small tubes used in heater cores.
There was a time when seal tabs were installed in every new vehicle, at the factory, to account for the inevitable small leaks that occur in castings, joints, and so on. By the mid ‘90s, manufacturing and machining techniques had improved to the point where the seal tabs were no longer needed on a universal basis.
With the introduction of long-life coolant, silicate deposits were no longer a concern, so the scrubbing action from the seal tab fibres was no longer needed.
TIP: GM plants, as well as other manufacturers, still occasionally use seal tabs to address specific concerns.
In short, GM no longer endorses universal use of seal tabs. Procedures in SI have been specifically written to discourage their use in most cases.
When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be beneficial, a specific bulletin is released, describing their proper use. One such bulletin is Customer Satisfaction Program 03034, dated 7/7/03. This applies to specific 3.8L engines only, and is in effect until July 31, 2005.
TIP: After performing the procedure in the bulletin, be sure to install a recall identification label to the vehicle to indicate that the seal tabs have been installed.
TIP: If seal tabs were installed in a vehicle at the factory, it’s OK that the proper amount of tabs be installed if the coolant must be drained and replaced.
What’s a Recommended Dose?
TIP: Use this information only when instructed to do so by bulletin or SI procedure.
The proper number of Cooling System Seal Tabs depends on the capacity of the vehicle’s cooling system. Use between 1 and 1 1/2 grams of tabs per liter of cooling system capacity.
TIP: Cooling System Seal Tabs are packaged in two sizes.12378254 Small tabs (4 grams each) 5 tabs per package
3634621 Large tabs (10 grams each) 6 tabs per package
It is most likely that your 03 had the tabs installed at the factory accounting for your residue in the overflow tank. It is pretty common prior to 2004.
GM discouraged the used after 2004.
ahhh! not fun. The reason I agreed to go with the universal stuff, was because I flushed my 2003 Tahoe WITH THE DEX COOL at 100k, and at 130,000 I had to replace a water pump. And when you look into the overflow tank, that red dex is gunked up on the walls. So I thought hell I might as well give it a try with the universal stuff on my 2007 GMC 2500hd.
There goes my $1,000 Christmas Bonus, lol. O well, could be a lot worse.
That is pretty good life out of an LS water pump. They have updated them over the years. Your 07 pump is better than your 03.
Thanks for the replies..
LS1MIKE- I agreed to switch over to Valvoline Max Life, because I did some research on it, and it seems lots and lots of people switch from the Dex cool (aka dex death), to the universal yellow stuff.
After the flush, all was well for 1 year and 10,000k miles. Was this a fluke, or should I directly blame it to switching away from the DEX COOL?
Hard to say, depends on how long the original stuff had been mixed with the incorrect coolant.
Also depends on how good the flush was. They need to get it ALL out. At this point don't switch back. Fix the heater core, do a COMPLETE flush and put the universal stuff back in.
So much miss information on DEX out there. With the LS series of engines. 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc. Leave the Dex in there. It does not cause any problems.
So lets start this way. You truck is LS based. Dex cool does not affect it like it did the 3.1, 3.4, 3800, 4.3, old 5.7.
You have a pressurized overflow tank.
If you keep Dex in it you are fine. You have a dry intake no coolant or oil touch it. The problem in the past was low coolant, air and acidity eating the plastic intake gaskets.
What you see in the overflow tank of you Tahoe no big deal, I have that in all my Dex cars.
My 00 WS6 has had DEX from day one and it is not pressurized, the LS1 does not suffer the DEX problems.(just a smaller aluminum block 6.0. It does not have a pressurized overflow tank like your truck and mine)
NOW having said all that. I would find who put the wrong stuff in it and have words. :). That will mess everything up. It will turn Dex to a gel like substance, clogging everything leading to failure in the highest point first...heater core
My guess is your heater core needs to be replaced. Then you need to flush the system and put the Prestone Dex in it.
I run the Dex in everything I have (all GM). I had to do the intake gasket on the Grand Prix (s/c 3800) but the updated metal gaskets pretty much solve the problem.
I too only use my truck to tow so it sit for long periods. I flushed this past spring and put Prestone Dex back in. Just like the Trans Am, clean as a whistle in there.
I thinks it's been same pattern since 1992 thru now.
Since even before that. As the rims that were on this truck went on a 1971 and this is my old 1989 with 04 8 lug GM rims on it.
No, I agree, great looking car, my feeling is nny offering in this category from the big three right now is AWESOME...Heck even my "old" 2000 WS6 was better than just about anything put out in the "old days" Styling is a very personal thing, but you can't argue with numbers. :)
I don't drive my truck much. I tow with it and that is about it. I went with the longest truck I could afford. CC Long Bed. I love having the long bed when I need to pick stuff up. Plus with the long wheel base. I don't get any sway from my 32 footer, with the hitch I have.
97 SHO VS 97 GTP
Never been a big fan of the SHO, except for the fact you had the ability to row through the gears, but I have had three supercharged 3800 cars and like the article says...
"If you haven't yet figured out that we think the new Pontiac Grand Prix GTP handily whips the Ford Taurus SHO, then you're probably still contributing to the Committee to Elect Dukakis. Still, the SHO remains an impressive monument to Japanese-American technology. And for most folks, it's plenty rapid. But the Grand Prix GTP, despite lacking some of the SHO's sophistication, is not only considerably quicker and more pampering, it's a bunch cheaper every time you write the payment check."
I don't drive them in winter and quite frankly my Trans Am sees more off road them my truck :).
Just depends on what are doing with it!
Bandit, is that you???????? :B
Lost you somewhere on the flip side!
I have had both. I am not a truck guy so my last two trucks were 2wd. I don't drive them in winter and quite frankly my Trans Am sees more off road them my truck :).
Just depends on what are doing with it!
As far as miles.
The duramax is something like a 220k miles B10 (10% will have internal engine failure by 220k miles)
The cummins is a 350k B50 (50% will have internal engine failure by 350k miles)
The 7.3 powerstroke is a 200k miles B10
For comparison purposes the GM 6.0 gasser is a B10 of 200k miles.
The ford 6.0 and 6.4 should likely be avoided. If you do decide to consider one make sure you educate yourself on the pros and cons of these engines.
Small truck diesels aren't forever engines, especially if you don't know how they were used or taken care of when you are buying used.
I would go newer and lower miles and get a gasser before I would get a older higher miles diesel.
I'd like to see the source of your "B" numbers please. Especially the ridiculous Cummins 50% figure.
I was wondering the same thing.
To the OP. Look at all of them, each has their own problems. Your best bet is to find one of any brand that has all the service records so you can verify that at least some of the problem areas have been addressed. Just remember generally when you buy something used you will have to do some sort of maintenance or repair.