RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'maillemaker' found 161 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Leveling Jacks pro & con

What Drew said. I have had to jack my front end enough that my front tires came off the ground (or nearly so), but never the back end. Back end tires have to touch or you will roll away! Also as Drew said once your jacks are touching the ground and take even a slight amount of weight the bounce is gone. RV can no longer move downward once the jacks are touching the ground.
maillemaker 09/20/19 11:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cleaning out a DIY septic tank

Why aren't you dumping into the sewer? Can't be to cheap to have a sewer. If this guy is somewhere where he can construct himself a home-made septic tank out of 55 gallon drums, my guess is he's out in the sticks and there is no sewer service.
maillemaker 09/19/19 11:46am Tech Issues
RE: Leveling Jacks pro & con

Also, while it is true that they help considerably with movement and bounce, don't expect them to eliminate it completely. They won't. I don't know how they could not. They are bolted directly to the frame, so your RV frame is literally sitting on jacks when they are down. I mean, it's not absolutely 100% rock-solid, sure you can feel a vibration across the house, but it's an absolute night-and-day difference jacks down vs. jacks up. Maybe the blinds wiggle a tiny bit when I roll over in bed when they are down. As opposed to every blind in the RV going SLAP SLAP SLAP when I roll over when the jacks are up.
maillemaker 09/19/19 09:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Smell and heat from rear wheel wells

I ripped the tread off my passenger-side rear tires. Smoked them good. When I had my brakes done, the mechanic said the passenger-side emergency brake had been disconnected. He re-connected it. Found out why it had been disconnected - it was not releasing even though the parking brake had been released up front. As a result, I guess, all the power went to the driver-side wheels, while the passenger side rear wheels dragged. Wore the tread right down to the cords. Fortunately the tires were about to age out and I was due for new tires anyway.
maillemaker 09/19/19 09:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Refrogerator Problem

Why would a bad breaker in your inverter keep your fridge from working on propane? I would think a bad breaker would stop providing 110V to the fridge, but could still be providing the 12V it needs to run on propane. But, you should have this problem on shore power or generator. And, you can easily test by testing for 110V at the refrigerator plug, and by flipping the breaker to ON. On shore power or generator power, with the fridge breaker ON, you should have 110V at the power socket where the fridge plugs in. On my rig you can access this socket behind the outside access hatch.
maillemaker 09/19/19 09:03am Tech Issues
RE: Black Tank flush with valve closed

Second, I've never seen waste tanks that weren't black. So that was a new one on me. Yup, mine is some kind of translucent white material. Same thing as the fresh water tank. So when I look down the toilet on an empty tank, I can see daylight through the tank wall. It's somewhat brown-stained, but that's it. Our rig is nearly 30 years old. I've had it for 10. I never rinse out the tank; I just fill it full before dumping so you get a real gusher when you pull the cork. I used to put the blue "poo pellets" in the tank before a trip, but I quit using them about a year ago. We have no smell issues so I figure it's just a waste of money and unnecessary for the environment.
maillemaker 09/19/19 09:00am Tech Issues
RE: Cleaning out a DIY septic tank

I have to say I laughed at the youtube comment. I can just see this guy installing a Schrader valve and pumping this sucker up to 150 PSI and then the whole shebang erupts out of the ground in a brown Old Faithful fountain of poo. :) :) :) Anyway I agree if this thing was made out of steel barrels 10 years ago it's hard to believe they would still be sound. I think I would try the Bio-Clean stuff and see if it got you anywhere. It's probably time for a new septic system.
maillemaker 09/19/19 08:51am Tech Issues
RE: Black Tank flush with valve closed

I never add water back to an empty black tank. But when I go to dump my black tank, I always make sure it is full before dumping. If it is not full, then I have a small block of wood I keep in the bathroom that will wedge between the wall and the flapper valve, keeping the flush valve open and the flapper open, so that the toilet will fill the black tank. Obviously you have to pay strict attention here and not wander off or you will flood your RV with poo water. I have never had that problem. Once the tank is completely full, I pull the waste gate and let 'er rip. I figure the full tank gives a nice "power flush". I never use a hose or any other sprayer things to hose down my tank. It's clean enough - when it's empty and I look down the hole I can see daylight through the milky walls of the tank.
maillemaker 09/17/19 02:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Not A Joke Top Off With Gasoline or Diesel

Mex, Think you need to get back on your "meds".. Pretty much when I see "MEXICOWANDERER" I scroll by until the next post. Half the time I can't figure out if the guy is trying to be sacastic, is serious, or is just rambling on about something unrelated to the discussion at hand. I've given up trying to decipher what he writes.
maillemaker 09/17/19 11:43am Tech Issues
RE: Leveling Jacks pro & con

My 30-year-old Winnebago Warrior had jacks installed by the previous (first) owner. I'm so glad he did. The best benefit of the jacks is not so much the leveling, but stability. Even on level ground, the RV is still floating on its suspension. So every time someone gets up in the night to go pee, or they flop over in bed, the entire RV bounces around. With jacks, the house is rock-solid like...a house!
maillemaker 09/17/19 11:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Black tank line

New to the lifestyle and can't figure out why my black tank line fills while traveling. I emptied the tank the last two times before traveling....and made sure valve was closed. When I get ready to hook up, I opened the pipe to attach my hose and waste pours out. How is it getting past the valve? My RV is nearly 30 years old. When I remove the outside dust cover to hook up the hose, nothing ever comes out. It sounds like you are getting leakage past the valves. An easy way to test is close both valves and remove the outer dust cap. Then continuously flush your toilet, filling up your black water tank. If you see water coming out of your dump connection with the gate valve closed, you have a leak. If not, fill up your grey water tank and see if that is leaking at the gate valve.
maillemaker 09/16/19 12:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Not A Joke Top Off With Gasoline or Diesel

I always find these "fill up now!" scares funny. Let's say gasoline is going to cease to exist all over the world tomorrow. What difference is an extra 20 gallons of gasoline in your tank today going to really make? I might make one more camping trip at the old prices. So what?
maillemaker 09/16/19 08:36am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help!

OK, so check the resistance on the new element and see if it is now burned up. Steve
maillemaker 09/12/19 08:21am Tech Issues
RE: Dead mouse

We just had a mouse somehow get down our dryer vent tube from the attic of our home and die in the flex pipe behind the dryer. Clothes came out smelling like death. I replaced the pipe, and then sprayed Febreze in their liberally and ran a couple of empty loads with no heat. Smell gone. I would open up the bay, spray it down liberally with Febreeze, and then put a box fan in there and air it out.
maillemaker 09/12/19 08:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan gas generator want start

If you open up your generator compartment and look inside there will be a nameplate on the Onan generator. This will tell you the model number of your generator. Some newer Onan generators have a display that will generate error codes that can help diagnose problems. The first thing to confirm is are you getting fuel. The Onan generators have an external fuel pump. The easiest way to test this is to hook a clear rubber tube up to the outlet of the fuel pump and stick the other end in a gas can. When you try and start the generator you should see a flow of fuel. Alternatively you can hook the fuel pump up to 12 volts and make it run that way. Be careful here as you are playing with an open can of gasoline and could be making sparks. Keep a fire extinguisher handy. Another thing you can do without cracking anything open is just try to start the generator half a dozen times. You should smell gasoline from the exhaust if the engine is getting gas. You can also pull one of the 2 spark plugs (the front one is usually easier to get at) and see if it is wet. If it's we and smells like gas, you are getting gas. Next check for spark. You can get cheap inline spark testers like this for less than $10: https://www.amazon.com/ENA-Universal-Automotive-Motorcycle-Fool-Proof/dp/B07GHBNFKZ Beware it can be hard to see the light bulb light up in direct sunlight. But it's super easy - disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug, and stick this tester in the middle. Now the light bulb lights up as electricity goes to the spark plug. Ideally you'd test this on both spark plugs but it's hard to get at the one on the back side of the generator. Generally if you're getting spark up front then you are probably getting spark in the back. The most common problem with these generators is the fuel pump quits working or the carb gets gummed up from not being run often enough. It is critical to run these generators every month under load for at least 30 minutes. The heat and vibration and flushing with fresh gasoline helps keep the inside of the carburetor clean. This is especially true with today's ethanol gasoline. If your carb sits you can end up with condensation water inside the carb and things start growing in there. Varnish, gum, debris, mold and gunk clogs the tiny passages inside the carb and require a rebuild or new carb to fix. "Mechanic in a can" fixes like Seafoam, etc., seldom work. Also check your oil level. As others said, some Onan generators have will shut down if they do not detect oil pressure. If your control board is suspect, Flight Systems will diagnose it for $20 and put the price of the test towards a new board if you buy one from them.
maillemaker 09/12/19 06:56am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

The blower runs constantly for several minutes, with the sparker attempting to light every few seconds through that time period. It's like the flame just flickers in there before going out every time. I feel a burst of heat and that hollow "whooshing" sound that happens when the flame ignites, only for it to immediately go out. Only after several minutes does my unit go into lockout mode. Yup, this is all typical fail-safe stuff. When you turn on the furnace, the first thing that happens is the blower motor is turned on. Inside the furnace there is a "sail switch" that blows in the wind made by the fan. If that switch does not activate, it tells the furnace controller that the fan isn't running, and it's not safe to fire up the furnace with no airflow (it would burn up). That is check number one. Then it opens the gas valve and fires the ignitor. If it doesn't detect a flame, it will shut things down. It will try to re-start some amount of tries before it gives up (lock out). As others have said, either you have a bad control board, or a poor electrical connection to the flame sensor, or there is debris in the furnace causing poor gas flow and making the flame extinguish. When you open the cover to the furnace on the outside of the RV you should see the burner inlet pipe with the ignitor. Sometimes there are two prongs - one for the spark and one is the flame sensor. Other furnaces combine both into one prong. Make sure the prongs are rust and debris free. If you remove the bracket holding the ignitor assembly you can usually stick a vacuum pipe up the inlet pipe and suck out any debris down there. Make sure the heater is cold first of course.
maillemaker 09/12/19 06:37am Tech Issues
RE: Generator keeps shutting off

I highly recommend you cruise over to: https://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=1 For Onan help. They are not very hard to work on once you get them out on a work bench. For me the thing was a black box until I determined I was tired of dropping $500 every time it needed service. Turns out my old 4BGE you can replace every electrical thing on it for less than $200 (starter, plugs, ignition control module, distributor, condenser), and you can replace the voltage regulator for $150 and the control board for $200. The engines themselves are pretty bullet proof given how little they run. The Achilles heal of my genny is the little plastic propeller they put on the main shaft in between the engine and the gen head. This has the magnets on it that the ECM picks up. If a mouse builds a nest in there and you try to start it, it will shear off the rotor arms. It has not happened to me, but if it does you have to split the genny in half to fix it.
maillemaker 09/10/19 12:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Radiator performance? Life expectancy?

You can flush it and free up some space, but it is old and other issues with them is they can leak, and you cant flush that issue away. Get a new one. I tried radiator flushes with my 30-year-old radiator, it had zero effect. I do not think anything short of acid would take the mineral deposits out of a radiator. I even tried following the "extended flush" instructions of driving around with the stuff for a week. Don't mix metals. If heater core is aluminum then get aluminum radiator. If copper then copper… My OEM radiator was copper. I went with an aftermarket aluminum one because they are thermally more efficient. Even though brass has better thermal conductivity, the solder reduces that and makes the aluminum ones generally better. They are also considerably lighter. You do have to worry about galvanic corrosion with aluminum radiators. To solve this, I installed a sacrificial zinc anode in mine. https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-32060-Anode-Drain/dp/B001GR09S4 My radiator had a dedicated port for the anode so I could also have a standard drain petcock. Steve
maillemaker 09/10/19 12:26pm Tech Issues
RE: fresh water tank overflow syphoning tank dry

Water might slosh out of a top-plumbed, bottom-drain vent line, but it's not going to siphon. Once the water level is below the mouth of the vent tube, it cannot siphon.
maillemaker 09/10/19 12:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Radiator performance? Life expectancy?

My RV is 30 years old. I just replaced the radiator last year as I was having an overheat. It started off with slight overheating as you are describing. When I took the radiator cap off and looked down into the radiator cores, they looked like Yellowstone National Park with mineral deposits all around the core openings and plugging them. Take off your radiator cap and drain the coolant until you can see your cores (assuming you can with your radiator). Here is what mine looked like: https://i.imgur.com/9NjeXH6l.jpg It is getting harder and harder to find radiator shops that will rebuild radiators anymore, because it is cheaper to just replace them. But, it is possible to have a radiator "rodded out". This is where they remove the top and bottom of the tank and then run a piece of rod up and down the cores to try and break loose the crud. Better yet, you can "re-core" the radiator, where they unsolder the top and bottom tanks and then solder in an entirely new core. None of the "mechanic in a bottle" solutions will get rid of mineral deposits. It's also possible that the fins on your water pump impeller have rusted away so you are no longer getting good coolant flow.
maillemaker 09/10/19 07:30am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 9  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS