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 > Your search for posts made by 'maillemaker' found 134 matches.

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RE: Please confirm what I think I already know

I've got a 30-year-old RV with 30 Amp input. Still has it's original B&W converter. I've never used any kind of power conditioning/protection with it. We take whatever the power pole provides. I do have a Kill-a-Watt to monitor incoming voltage/frequency. They are about $20: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
maillemaker 06/19/19 11:43am Tech Issues
RE: How to add photos to forum posts

Imgur does not require a login. It is a public photo repository and it is free. I'm not sure how this would be "secure". You post your photo and you link to it from here, but anyone could view it if they knew the URL.
maillemaker 06/17/19 12:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Chicago Trip Advice

I want to go up there to the Museum of Science and Technolgy. Wondered how to RV it.
maillemaker 06/13/19 09:10am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Residential Fridges

We replaced a failing 7.5 cu ft Norcold absorption fridge with a 10.1 cu ft Haier residential fridge about 3 years and almost 20,000 miles ago. The fridge draws 1.2 running amps except for the few minutes the defrost function runs when it jumps to 1.8 amps. The LRA is listed at 6 amps, but measures at a momentary peak of 5.3 amps. A dedicated 850 watt PSW inverter handles the load with no complaints. The only time its been serviced was when a GE service tech replaced a recalled starting relay. Oh, and at 112 lbs, the Haier weighs about 15 lbs less than the Norcold. So how long would a group 29 12V battery run this thing for?
maillemaker 06/13/19 08:38am Tech Issues
RE: Drawing water from a lake

swimmer_spe, where will you be dumping your waste water?
maillemaker 06/04/19 11:56am Tech Issues
RE: How do you manage without a toad?

We have a 32 foot Class C. We have had it about 10 years. We have never had a toad. I can pull up the jacks and disconnect utilities in 5 minutes, and then we just drive the RV to wherever. We pretty much resign ourselves to parking "in the boonies" of whatever parking lot we arrive at, so you have the lot to yourself. But, since it's just a van with a long tail, most of the time you can park in standard car parking spots as long as you can hang your tail off into the grass. But more often than not I just pull through and take up 2 slots end-to-end. Grocery stores and Walmart are no problem visiting with the RV, and that's about the only places we go when we are out and about (and then only if we forgot something). Most of the time we are taking the RV to a specific destination where we intend to stay (Disney, campground, whatever) so we have no need of a vehicle when we get there.
maillemaker 06/04/19 11:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Drawing water from a lake

This link might be useful to you: https://www.berkeyfilters.com/collections/berkey-water-filter-systems?a_aid=5a5fbcc0b393f&a_bid=55078429 The above filtration units claim to filter out nearly all bacteria and viruses in addition to chemical and physical contaminants. I don't think you are going to find many people who put untreated water into their RV holding tanks. This is simply an unnecessary and considerable risk in most of the world these days. Sadly most of the world has now become polluted in one way or another. My RV is an ancient 1990 model. I have never sanitized the tank. There is a clear bit of tubing that runs from the water tank out to a vent that is integral with the fill nozzle on the outside of the RV. This is to allow air to escape when the tank is being filled. This little tube, which of course gets water and water vapor in it, continually grows gunk in it. Every couple of years I'll pull up the bed to get at it and run a small bottle brush through it to get the gunk out. But, we never drink our onboard water, even when hooked up to city water. It's plenty clean enough for the toilet, hand washing, and taking a shower, but we always have cases of bottled water in the RV for drinking and cooking. We can buy 40-bottle cases of water from Costco for about $2. It's so cheap it's almost free. If I was doing semi-permanent boondocking, I believe I'd add cases of water to my monthly food treks, and just drink bottled water. If I had to use water from an unknown source, I'd probably investigate some kind of filtration system like I linked to above. I would filter before the water went into my RV holding tanks. But, as others have asked, where is your waste water going? Unless your campsite has a septic system, is your waste water going to run off right into the lake you are pumping water from?
maillemaker 06/04/19 08:56am Tech Issues
RE: $100 per night

WHY is this in Tech Issues?? The other forums to expensive?? . It's clearly in tech issues because people need to figure out how to use their smart phone to check campsite prices before they arrive. :) Steve
maillemaker 06/03/19 11:05am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: $100 per night

In today's modern world with cell phones, there is really no excuse for sticker shock when pulling into a campground. When we are on the road and do a truly random stop, we hit Cracker Barrel or Walmart and stay for free. I camp about every other month at Brierfield Ironworks State Park and it breaks my heart to pay $28 a night there.
maillemaker 05/31/19 07:56am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

For cars, and likely RVs too, it's almost always better financial sense to repair than to replace with new. Of course, there are a lot of intangibles that come with buying a nice new RV: peace of mind, and all the modern technology and innovations. We bought our 1990 Winnebago Warrior Class C about 10 years ago. It was 20 years old when we bought it. We paid $7500 for it. Needed new tires ($1000), fix cab AC and convert to modern refrigerant ($800), generator repairs ($500). On top of this the roof leaks, unit had mold and disintegrated foam from the headliner. It probably was not a wise purchase and we probably over-paid. But, it was all we could afford. It probably costs me $500 a year in repairs, but usually it's every few years that something major requires fixing. I try to do most of my own work but it is hard because we live in a subdivision and the RV can't be in the driveway more than a 24 hours. Last year I put a new radiator in it myself - probably $300. Had to fix the generator again, probably $400. And new tires since the ones we put on 10 years ago aged out - another $1000. The year before that I had to put new ignition modules in both the refrigerator and the water heater ($200). But, I use the RV about every month. We'll never be able to afford another one, so I just keep patching this one up. I tell everyone it runs on dollars. :)
maillemaker 05/29/19 11:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacing interior lights

The only issue I had when I replaced all our RV bulbs with LED bulbs is that the LED bulbs flicker due to voltage fluctuations when the water pump is running. With incandescent bulbs they would dim a bit when the pump kicked in, but the LED bulbs flicker.
maillemaker 05/28/19 06:18am Tech Issues
RE: Made some new sink covers this weekend.

I had to go over to storage and try them out in the RV. :) https://i.imgur.com/UEMZxXrl.jpg
maillemaker 05/27/19 05:22pm Class C Motorhomes
Made some new sink covers this weekend.

Our old RV came with a sink cover to give you some more counter space if you need it. Sadly for some reason they decided to make all the counter surfaces out of laminated particle board which does not stand up to water at all. So I finally got around to making some new sink covers. Here they are: https://i.imgur.com/dJ2Ji5Jl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/grCFgjZl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6nftOoJl.jpg
maillemaker 05/27/19 12:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Costco battery?

So, i went to check Costco. They only have 14 and 15 code batteries. Will those work? If not, off to Canadian Tire or Walmart. You still have not answered the question: What size is your current battery. As I said before, you want a Marine battery that is the size of your current battery. You may find that your battery box is bigger than your current battery and may accept a larger battery. If so, you might consider installing a bigger battery that will be able to store more energy. But at a minimum, buy the current size you have. If in doubt, use a tape measure and measure the size of your current battery and compare it to the new one. There are 3 basic kinds of wet (lead-acid) batteries: * Cranking batteries ("car batteries") * Marine batteries * Deep Cycle batteries. The difference between them is that cranking batteries are designed to provide a lot of current over a short amount of time, whereas a deep cycle battery is designed to provide less current over a longer period of time. Typically cranking batteries have "sponge" lead plates that have more exposed surface area and can thus dump a lot of power quickly, as a starter motor needs. Deep cycle batteries have solid lead plates and cannot usually provide as much current but tolerate deep discharges and more discharge/recharge cycles than a cranking battery. Marine batteries are usually in-between, with a compromise of performance of the two. For an RV, what you really want is a deep cycle battery. But most big box stores don't carry them. They typically carry cranking batteries and marine batteries. So if you are just going to run down to your local big-box store and buy a battery, buy the biggest Marine battery that will fit in your battery box. It will probably last you 5 years without you monkeying with it. Maybe longer if you know how to add distilled water to it. Here are your Costco choices. Which one you choose depends on which one matches the size of what you already have, or whatever will fit in your battery box: https://i.imgur.com/7z0OfPT.png https://i.imgur.com/RIaOiQD.png
maillemaker 05/24/19 08:17am Tech Issues
RE: Costco battery?

You will want something like this: Group 24: https://www.costco.com/Interstate-24DC-Marine--RV-Battery.product.100476410.html Group 27: https://www.costco.com/Interstate-27DC-Marine--RV-Battery.product.100476408.html You want a "Marine" battery as it can handle deep cycling better than a standard automobile battery. However, the actual size of battery will depend on how much room you currently have for a battery. You need to figure out the group size of your current battery. Perhaps your battery box is actually large enough for a bigger battery than what you currently have in the box? If so you might install a larger battery. For example, my Class C RV originally had a somewhat small house battery installed under the hood. I relocated the connection to install two Group 29 Marine batteries (from Walmart)in battery boxes in a cargo bay under the RV.
maillemaker 05/23/19 12:10pm Tech Issues
RE: House Lights not working with hour batteries

I kept having battery issues every couple of months or so. the RV dealer who is no longer in business rewired by MH to keep the draining minimual on my batteries. I didn't think much about it since I did little to no dry camping. After they rewired the rig about five years ago, my house lights will not come on with 12 volt batteries. Work fine with shore and generator power. My vehicle radio will not work unless I have the accessory power switch on. So for now the house batteries only run my vehicle radio and starting the generator. OK, your cab radio should be running off the engine battery. This is just like any automobile - if you turn the engine key to the Accessory mode, then your radio should work. This should be running off of your engine battery. If your house lights only work on shore power or generator, then your house batteries are either dead or disconnected. Your converter is converting the 120VAC to 12VDC. When you are not hooked up to a 120VAC source, your converter should automatically switch over to the 12VDC source (house batteries), assuming they are hooked up and not dead. Depending on your RV, your generator might start from the house battery or the engine battery. In my RV, the generator is started by using the engine battery. What you should do is disconnect your engine battery at the battery and then discover what does and does not work in your RV anymore. I suspect you will find with the engine battery disconnected your dash radio no longer works, and your generator no longer starts, and your steps no longer work. My suspicion is that your house batteries were disconnected from the converter. Steve
maillemaker 05/21/19 03:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Warrantiy claim denied

Glad it all worked out.
maillemaker 05/14/19 08:55am Tech Issues
RE: $3150 to service Onan 7k and replace ignition coils!

So the good news is I have a better understanding of this thing for next time I have to pull it out again. This was one of the biggest silver linings to my generator work. I now know the thing very well. I can yank my genny in under 30 minutes now. Steve
maillemaker 05/13/19 12:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Warrantiy claim denied

I agree the repair shop probably doesn't want to deal with the warranty, as most of these warranties pay fixed, pre-agreed-upon repair rates. They would rather charge you market rates. And of course, the warranty company would rather not pay anything. So, if you get the repair shop to agree with the warranty shop that it was a stuck thermostat that caused the problem, you are stuck. I would ask for the original thermostat back. Do not ask why, and don't wait or it will get "thrown out". When you get it back, test it with the boiling water test above. If the thermostat opens and closes in boiling/cold water, then you prove that the thermostat was functioning properly. You can make a video of this test and post it to YouTube and share it with the relevant parties (and the rest of the world). Everything rests on getting your hands on that thermostat before they have a chance to "lose" it or monkey with it.
maillemaker 05/09/19 10:48am Tech Issues
RE: Still battling water pump issue

My LED lights also flicker when my water pump is on. I used to see the old incandescent dim slightly when the pump was on, but with the LED replacements they flicker. I suspect this is because of the cycling drop in voltage due to the pump - the electrical system has not been designed to provide even voltage to the light fixtures to keep the more-sensitive LED lights happy. I suspect future RVs will have to isolate the power to the pump somehow.
maillemaker 05/09/19 09:47am Tech Issues
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