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 > Your search for posts made by 'maillemaker' found 172 matches.

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RE: water water everywhere but not a drop to drink!

All water in the world has been on something's butt. :)
maillemaker 11/15/19 12:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan Generator Fault Code 2- Low oil pressure

While I understand that they might not all be the same......the ones I've seen it is impossible to overfill them to any significant degree. A couple of extra ounces certainly will NOT cause the doom and gloom that you described. I think I was talking to someone at Onan who told me this advice, and I would have been calling about my Onan 4BGE generator. But, I can't remember anymore for sure who told me this. My problem in the end was a bad Hall Effect switch. Steve
maillemaker 11/12/19 01:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan Generator Fault Code 2- Low oil pressure

Overfilling can cause churning and foaming of the oil, which can mislead the pressure sending unit into thinking there is no oil. Make sure it is not over-filled also. Steve
maillemaker 11/11/19 09:22am Tech Issues
RE: Storage compartment lock latch?

I guess I'll fabricate a new latch myself. Steve
maillemaker 11/05/19 06:56am Tech Issues
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

If Teflon tape were so good at isolating the "electrical connection" btwn the tank and anode rod, the Teflon tape would be 100% intact and still look like a flat piece of tape when the anode rod is removed. You can also easily convince yourself of this by using an ohmmeter between the annode plug head and the surrounding metal.
maillemaker 11/05/19 06:52am Tech Issues
Storage compartment lock latch?

My Winnebago is missing the latch piece for one of the underneath storage compartments. Does anyone know what this piece is called and where I might get a replacement part and screw? https://i.imgur.com/xVSpDQel.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nIkVgSNl.jpg Thanks, Steve
maillemaker 11/04/19 06:57am Tech Issues
RE: NOISEY GENERATOR

How about a piece of heavy carpet (that is easy to store) and that you just lay on the ground under the generator compartment? I've also noticed that the outside sound is reduced when parked or grass or dirt, so a piece of heavy carpet there should work pretty good. Might work. Steve
maillemaker 10/31/19 12:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

Or if you don’t have a voltmeter, just see if the cheap indicator lights go from full to charge after plugging in the shore power. My status panel does not indicate charge, only voltage. When on shore power, it will read max (12V). With full batteries, it will read the same when you disconnect shore power. But, it's 30 years old. Steve
maillemaker 10/31/19 10:32am Tech Issues
RE: NOISEY GENERATOR

There is not much you can do. Sound deadener can help, but as was said make sure it's fireproof and make sure you don't intrude into the airspace around the generator. In my RV the generator compartment is totally open on the bottom. So parking over pavement makes it seem a lot louder than parking over grass. I have considered buying some sort of "egg crate foam" to lay on the ground under the generator. But there's always the risk of it getting blown around or sucked up into the generator area blocking airflow. I've also considered building some kind of foldable "dog house" that you could set up next to the RV to block in some of the sound. But that would be a pain to stow.
maillemaker 10/31/19 09:28am Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

Yup do what opnspaces said. Check your battery voltage when connected to shore power and when not.
maillemaker 10/30/19 08:31am Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

We replaced the batteries (they were a couple years old anyway) and when my husband went to take them out, the connectors were completely loose. That very well may have been your problem all along.
maillemaker 10/29/19 02:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

We are having to use our furnace....seems fine...gets going, heats, heat shuts off and blower continues for a bit. It seems that this is happening when our blower shuts down....we lose power. Everything but the coffee pot, microwave and TV has no power. It stays off for a few minutes, then comes back on. When it does come back, some of (or all of) our touch lights come on...waking us in the middle of the night last night....and it's still happening tonight. Any ideas? We are hooked to a 50 amp with surge protector What it sounds like to me is that the furnace is pulling the batteries down dead, and then everything shuts off. But if you are plugged into shore power, all your 12V systems should be powered by the converter. but they show full with that battery disconnect turned on so we still may just need to unplug the whole camper? ... We just cut power to the whole camper and checked batteries and they showed 1/3 and that quickly went away, too. So...changing those today. Here's the thing - if your rig is plugged into shore power, even with bad batteries you will show 100% on the internal battery charge display. That's because your converter is putting out 12V from shore power. But I don't know why your power is going out if you're plugged into shore power. The fact that you disconnected from shore power and your batteries dropped down to 1/3 and died tells me that your batteries are dead. Most converters charge the batteries, so I'm surprised your batteries are not getting charged. How long have you been plugged into shore power? In any case, even if you remove the batteries entirely if you are plugged into shore power your 12V systems should be powered by the converter. There may be some systems that won't function if you remove the batteries but I'm not sure about that. I think the converter should power 12V systems (via 120V) even if there are no batteries or if they are dead. Steve
maillemaker 10/29/19 08:15am Tech Issues
RE: Using water below freezing?

I'm in Alabama, and I've had my waste gate valves get frozen in our relatively weak winters. No damage, but I could not dump the tanks until they thawed out. In my old RV the grey and black water tanks are exposed to the elements, and the waste gate valve is hanging out there, too. Maybe you can stop your tanks from freezing up by dumping some RV antifreeze into your black and grey tanks. Say a gallon in each?
maillemaker 10/22/19 02:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Repair costs and frequency frustration

I wonder whether RV repairs are treated like foreign and luxury car repairs with the assumption that RV owners are "well healed" and can afford high prices. I believe absolutely they do. If you roll into the shop with a $40K toy they are going to assume you have the money to pay for such things. I also drive an old RV. Ours will be 30 years old next year. It is not much to look at. It has delamination problems, a roof that once leaked and was covered over with Heng's, and more. We bought it about 10 years ago for $7500. I suppose over the years I have put $5000 in repairs into it, and 2 sets of new tires for $2000. Would I have been further ahead of the game if I had bought a $14,000 RV from the start? Maybe. But, I didn't have $14,000. Financially, we probably should not own an RV. But we use the heck out of it and we like it. I do as much work myself as I can - I'm up against a 24-hour driveway limit due to my HOA. But I also have a good small mechanic shop directly across from my RV storage place that does reasonable work well (most of the time). It's almost never a good deal to buy a new vehicle - it almost always makes better financial sense to repair. The problem becomes peace of mind for reliability. I definitely recommend Good Sam roadside assistance if you have an older RV. They have saved our bacon more than once. Also have a contingency plan every time you go somewhere.
maillemaker 10/17/19 12:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How to tell if fuel pumps are running by current draw?

Since you ordered 2 hall effect ammeters, know that the instructions say each display is calibrated to the sensor it arrived with and not to mix them up. LOL, too late. :)
maillemaker 10/14/19 06:50am Tech Issues
RE: How to tell if fuel pumps are running by current draw?

Is there a PID for that available that an OBD2 reader could monitor? DashCommand is a great app for realtime monitoring hundreds of different sensors that the diagnostic and emmissions controllers use. Sadly, this is a 1990 Ford and still ODB1. Steve
maillemaker 10/11/19 09:19am Tech Issues
RE: How to tell if fuel pumps are running by current draw?

I got one of these hall effect ammeters on my dash reading current into or out of my battery: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digital-Cu........rds=bayite+ammeter&qid=1570775614&sr=8-7 HEY! Now I am REALLY liking this solution. I did not know such things existed. I knew of clip-on ammeters but not with a handy permanent display like this. This might be just the thing to install. I could clamp onto the power line to both fuel pumps. Zero current would mean off, of course, I could determine through normal running what the normal current is, and if I catch the problem again and it turns out to be a stalled motor than the current should go through the roof! Either way, this would let me electrically verify the health state of the pumps! EDIT: OK, I ordered 2 of the hall effect ammeter gauges. Wish I had ordered them earlier in the week as I am going to be working on the RV this weekend. Steve
maillemaker 10/11/19 09:12am Tech Issues
RE: How to tell if fuel pumps are running by current draw?

Digital panel meter under $10 with shunt on ebay. Need to custom mount. DC-100V 10A 50A 100A Voltmeter Ammeter LED Dual Digital Volt Amp Meter Hey! That looks like it might be the ticket! Is there any idea what the maximum current draw might be for the in-tank and high-pressure fuel pumps? current in the motor will drop, ONLY if the hot pump has an open circuit a hot pump 'Stall' with out open circuit, will Increase current drain and the pump motor will get hotter Yes, I would assume maximum current would be at zero RPM (stall). So one would need to know the proper operational range of current draw. Since the RV runs properly most of the time, I should be able to easily determine the normal current draw using the above gauge or a clamp-on gauge. So now all I need to know is the stall current for the pumps, so I can use an appropriate gauge and/or shunt. Steve
maillemaker 10/11/19 08:57am Tech Issues
RE: What good are low point drains?

The answer would be, IF you can get to the area above the floor where the drains come down, do a little plumbing work and put valves above the floor and run pex down for the drains. In my RV, the valves are inside the house (2 under the bed, two under the bathroom sink), and they have drain extensions that go through the floor to exit the RV.
maillemaker 10/11/19 08:50am Tech Issues
RE: What good are low point drains?

Low point drains (2) do not drain the tank. They only drain the piping system. The FW tank has it's own drain. Low point drains are not necessary if you use antifreeze, My 2011 32' Keystone sprinter has no low point drains. My low point drains drain the entire system. Well, I guess that's not technically correct. My RV has 3 drains, and one valve just isolates the water tank. Every time I'm done with the RV for a trip I pull all 4 valves and drain the entire system. I don't even bother with compressed air as I tried it once and it blew nothing out - the low point drains are low so everything runs out the drains.
maillemaker 10/11/19 08:50am Tech Issues
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