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 > Your search for posts made by 'mbloof' found 48 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Sold Truck and Camper

Best of wishes and luck on your future adventures! The pandemic surely put 'snake oil' in many of our travel plans. Between most places being closed to once they opened being booked solid by all the new folks trying the RV camping adventures. (sigh) I'll be the first to admit that there will come a day when climbing up the stairs into the camper (and into the bed) will be to much of my aging knees and then I'll seriously look at motor homes. Happy trails! - Mark0.
mbloof 09/20/22 03:29pm Truck Campers
RE: Occasional Winter Camping??

https://live.staticflickr.com/5614/15624951092_789860be9e.jpg Ok so it has been nearly 20yrs since I've 'winter camped'. - Single type #27 battery, (I don't recall if I had solar or truck-2-camper charging at that point or not) - Temps in 20-30's, furnace was mostly on most of the time - I had not winterized, no water system issues - Admittedly after spending the night in the snow the next day I left for lower elevation (and less snow) - Given that 1 day/night of running the furnace and 2000 era lighting would of used up my single battery, I must of had someway of charging the battery Over the years I hear that most folks just drain their water (blow out excess with air on the city water intake), flush toilet with RV antifreeze and if staying more than 1 day/night have someway to charge the battery (for furnace+lighting) or have more than a single #27 battery (100Ah). While it seems (and IS) counter productive, cracking the roof hatches and having a window cracked for ventilation to combat condensation is needed. (otherwise you'll find moisture on the windows and on/in the walls) - Mark0.
mbloof 09/16/22 04:37pm Truck Campers
RE: Apple car play or XM radio

As others have mentioned: - if your around cities you can use the radio (stations go in/out as OP mentioned) - if your on most 'major' highways you can stream with your cell phone (until of course your out of cell phone range and of course it uses DATA which can be costly) - if you can find a place to mount it, you can use XM radio but have to listen to whatever they are broadcasting (and its not cheap) - while cars/trucks have moved from having just AM/FM to radio+cassette to radio+CD player to radio+CD player+Bluetooth you could simply feed CD's (with just audio or +10 CD's worth of MP3's stuffed on it) or you could load your cell phone up with a bunch of MP3's (most cell phones these days have at least 64GB of storage - 100x what a CD holds) and stream for free from your cell phone. There are a BUNCH of options for car/truck audio - why your asking in a Truck camper specific forum is anyones guess... - Mark0.
mbloof 09/04/22 10:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Apple car play or XM radio

Many modern mobile stereo's have Bluetooth which can pair&play music from any Bluetooth enabled device. Weather the content your listening to is on the device itself or simply streaming from elsewhere you can always have music on the road. - Mark0.
mbloof 09/04/22 08:28am Truck Campers
RE: Why shouldn't I go this route? (AC Roof Delete)

The reality of this discussion is you're not going to get anything but armchair quarterbacking and naysaying, as nobody has experience with doing what you are trying to do. It's not like installing fender flares. The reason you aren't seeing a lot of people doing it is because it's impractical. When you do find the rare person claiming to have done it, they gloss over the severe limitations. Just because most of us have looked at the numbers and realized it's not practical doesn't mean we don't know what we are talking about. No naysaying, show us the numbers for a system that works. Either you can or you can't. What we have discovered in other discussions is that this will work in some parts of the country and might not in other parts. On the West Coast, even on hot days we typically need the AC to run maybe for lunch while on the road and for an hour or two in the evening to cool the camper down. Most of the places you want to camp are going to cool down in the evening so only 2 to 3 hours of AC run time are necessary to make a substantial impact on camping experience. Contrast that with folks in the South where it stays hot and humid throughout the day and evening and the AC needs to run 24/7 then solar and batteries won't cut it. However, there is still a lot of advantage in those locations to being able to run the AC on battery for two or three hours and I still think would be worthwhile for those inclined to do it. If you end up needing more, you are already lugging around a generator anyway or plugging into shore power so you aren't taking away your options, just adding to them. A much simpler solution for the "camping experience" is to actually experience camping. Many folks (myself included) are only in our truck campers to: sleep and maybe eat, use rest room and eat. (unless of course foul weather drives us inside) While an hour or two of AC might come in handy while on the road to a destination while getting lunch in the camper, once actually at a camp spot opening the windows/vents and using a fan 'just works' for most of us. Granted YMMV and obviously different folks have different definitions and expectations of 'camping'. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/31/22 12:47pm Truck Campers
RE: Might sell the F450 and go F550 with liquid springs

I'm glad someone likes adaptive cruise. I don't personally get that close to other vehicles when I carry my truck camper or tow. I wonder how well it adapts for the heavier load when it applies brakes. I have the Ford version on a 2018 Escape - love it on the highway/freeway - in town not so much. As others have mentioned the onboard radar picks up cars in left turn lanes and triggers both a slow down/break and the 'collision avoid' warnings (I turned the collision break OFF). A bit annoying but in areas with heavy LEO patrols (with radar guns) CC can come in handy. I've gotten to where I simply don't use it in town. Out on the highway/freeway it works very well. Seems that many folks don't regulate their speed very well so it frees the driver from manually speeding up/slowing down with ether their foot or finger on the +/- buttons. - Mark0.
mbloof 08/30/22 01:19pm Truck Campers
RE: 19.5 Hankook DH35 vs XDS2

Greetings, when I was first shopping for 19.5's I considered the XDS2's however could not swallow the cost and instead went with Toyo 265/70R19.5 M608z's. These have worn well but are a bit noisy on the highway so when I end up doing a age related replacement in a few years I'm going with 245/70R19.5 M920a's: https://www.toyotires.com/commercial-truck/tire/pattern/m920a/ Higher speed, less road noise, mtn/snowflake and 4540lbs load rating. Just an idea, - Mark0.
mbloof 08/26/22 01:34pm Truck Campers
RE: Tiny Truck Camper or maybe not.

Personally I have three modes of camping: boondocking, with tent campers (in unimproved sites/areas) and with other RV's. It is only the latter where generally I'm the only truck/camper in the loop (or entire campground) and my rig is dwarfed by others monster setups! - Mark0.
mbloof 08/08/22 12:54pm Truck Campers
RE: Absorption Fridge Running on Solar/Battery/Inverter System

IDK, everyone has different use patterns for their RV. In the winter months the challenge is having enough AH to power the furnace. After that then it is enough propane to power the furnace, HW, stove and fridge. IMHO: the fridge is the LEAST propane use item in a camper. Personally, I no longer use the HW heater. While the furnace gets used more if the weather drives us inside (in the winter) otherwise it is only used at night and 1st thing in the AM to get the 'chill' off. So my propane use in the summer is mostly stove (cooking/coffee) and fridge. I'll generally need to fill 1 5gal propane tank 1 maybe 2x a year. My fridge is a 2014 - I can hear the gas valve open and gas flow while it is running - which is not all that often. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/15/22 10:05am Truck Campers
RE: Absorption Fridge Running on Solar/Battery/Inverter System

What does how an absorption fridge works have to do with 12thgen's response? It's gettin weird again... Really nothing. He brought up the point of understanding. The fridge burner is not on 24/7 as another example. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/14/22 07:47pm Truck Campers
RE: Absorption Fridge Running on Solar/Battery/Inverter System

A little correction to your understanding. There is no solar power going to waste. You have excess capacity, so the potential to produce power is going unused. Power is not produced until there is a load to use it. So, I suppose in one sense you either have a wasted opportunity, or an overbuilt system for your needs. Since you already have the system, finding ways to use the capacity is good, however you have to weigh the costs of having that system vs the cost of a couple of tanks of propane. Least wise the misunderstanding on how the absorption refrigerator's work. Much like compressor based models they cycle on/off depending on internal temperature. Cool outside temperatures and rarely opening the doors ANY refrigerator will cycle less. Conversely more frequent (and longer) door openings and higher ambient temperatures and they will cycle more. Absorption refrigerators do have a harder time in warmer weather. While cost/weight/mounting holes and getting hung up on tree branches may limit most of us from having more solar than what we need, I suppose having to much capacity and finding good uses for it is not a bad thing. (personally I'd size the inverter for running the roof top AC unit) - Mark0.
mbloof 07/14/22 12:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Do you think this can be repaired?

I have seen folks who carefully take a whole camper apart; rebuild the wood sides and bed floor, redo the cabinets; then put the thing back together. It's a HUGE project, figuratively and literally - and when you are done, you have the sentimental value, but no financial value because it's still an "old" camper. Humm.... campers, cars and dining room tables. Only one has a odometer on it. All three might have year built. While for the table maybe only the finish needs to be restored. The car no matter the year or mileage might have lots of new parts (new engine/trans perhaps?). When it comes to RV's the appliances (at least older ones) seem to last forever but the seals and framework (if the seals are not maintained) don't last very long. So a 'free' camper with ~<$10K parts and labor put into it making it 'good as new' (usually better) might be worth at least what was put into it, given the cost and shoddy workmanship of new stuff these days. Still a mere fraction of the cost of a new one. To me the $64 question for the OP is: how long are you willing to be a 'camper builder' rather than a 'camper user'? While I've seen some projects on here take <=2yrs there are equal numbers of examples that take MUCH more than that. JMHO, - Mark0.
mbloof 07/13/22 04:20pm Truck Campers
RE: 1979 Lance TC

I hate to bear bad news but most campers until fairly recently did not have 'manuals'. The idea always has been that the dealer walked you through the use of all the items. (along with recommending any service be done at their shop) I'd contact Lance and see if they have any historical marketing flyers available for that year or near that model year. RV appliances have not changed much over the years so surfing by different OEM websites may bring up a similar manual for the appliances that are installed. Last but not least all campers that cover the trucks tail lights will have ether a outlet or cord to be used as a 'umbilical cord' electrical attachment between the truck and camper. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/04/22 08:09pm Truck Campers
RE: Truck camper question

Hi there, I am looking for any helpful considerations. Considering a 3500 SRW 6.7 HO for a truck camper. Will be right at payload capacity. Pros/cons of air suspension, mega vs cc (longer vs shorter wheel base) etc. I've heard air is good for slightly better ride offloaded and loading/unloading camper but also that it's a waste if loaded a lot of time and could be a service expense down the line. Mega vs. CC is mostly longer wheel base. Going SRW for off-road capability but nothing too aggressive. And snow driving unloaded in deep winter. Any other items to note would be appreciated! I'm sorry but is there a actual specific question here? You've inadvertently touched a swath of topics that are hotly debated almost constantly here. Some folks care about 'payload' and others not so much. If your one that cares keep in mind that whatever camper your looking at you'll need to add ~+1000lbs to the dry weight to be in the ball park of the wet and ready for camping weight. Whatever truck your considering using there are likely 1000's of folks using it to haul campers on/off road. Generally speaking just about everybody makes modifications to their truck to better carry/handle a top heavy load like a camper. Please never overload the weight capacity of your tires. The 'big 3' all make trucks that are used as you've described. Pick one. - Mark0.
mbloof 07/03/22 06:55am Truck Campers
RE: First big trip - Newbie questions

1. Brand new camper = warranty. Call the dealer. The pump may be bad and they OWE you a replacement. You paid for it. 2. Here's a thought on the full water tank: TRY IT. It's WATER. If you find yourself unable to maintain control of the truck, or having scary moments getting the rig stopped because of the weight, or feel that its adversely affecting your fuel economy, you can just pull over and dump the water out. However, if you are so close to catastrophe that an empty/full water tank makes the difference, you've got bigger problems to solve. +1
mbloof 06/22/22 04:39pm Truck Campers
RE: Electrical Help pls

Amps x volts = watts. DC or AC works the same. Always use 12 volts when calculating because that is where the power is coming from. Otherwise need to plug into a 120v generator. The 12 Volt Side of Life This discussion has been eye-opening. !!! I ended up calculating the DVD/TV draw, and it meshes with what I saw on the Renogy screen, ~3A. Which seems crazy high to me, but I gotta start thinking in 12 volts, which is clearly difficult for me to wrap my pea-brain around. Thanks for the link. I will check it out. Your little inverter ought to be fine for the DVD player and TV. Keep in mind that DC power draw is DC power draw - depending on how much sun you get and how long you'll be 'out' away from plugging into another charge source it all adds up. I had a Renology solar charge controller that would not only report the voltage and power the panels were generating but what voltage the battery was at. The rule of thumb (off the top of my head, someone will correct me if I'm wrong): 10.5V = DEAD 11.5V = %50 - you should not discharge a flooded lead acid battery below this as it damages the battery/reduces the # of charge/discharge cycles you can use. - Mark0.
mbloof 06/20/22 10:45pm Truck Campers
RE: First big trip - Newbie questions

While it has happened only a handful of times over the years campground water&power can't always be counted on. I always carry my own water and in those cases I stayed to camp (sometimes getting a reduced rate) while others that did not carry their own water cut their stay short and left. - Mark0.
mbloof 06/20/22 07:16pm Truck Campers
RE: Electrical Help pls

Hi! I bought a 250 Watt Electric Heater to stave off the chill at night (the tag says it uses 2.1A). We have solar panels to charge our 200A battery (I don't think that matters, but just in case). Before the trip, I plugged the 250 Watt Heater into the 300 Watt inverter, and the inverter is plugged into the cigarette lighter in the camper. (The wire that runs from the cigarette lighter to the battery sized for 10A.) It worked fine. But now that my son and husband are on their trip, when they plug in the heater, the 10A fuse blows that is at the cigarette lighter. Twice. They are able to play a DVD and TV by plugging it into the inverter. So everything works for the DVD and TV. Nothing else is being charged or used on that inverter, nor at the cigarette lighter. Note: There is an electric fridge/cooler, and it's being powered by the same auxiliary battery, but it's not on the same fuse (if that makes sense; I know I am not using the correct terminology). My hubby just got to a campsite that has a power supply, and the heater works fine. So at least he is able to use it now without blowing fuses. Any suggestions as to where we can start looking for the issue(s)? TIA. No worries, a common misconception. Technical: P=I*E, 250W=2.1A*120VAC ok? The 'problem' here is to get 250W AC out of a inverter it may require 300W on the +12V side of things. (%80 efficient) which equates to: 300W/12V=25A - thereby blowing the 10A fuse on the cigarette lighter. So why did it work at home? (assuming at home you were plugged into shore power) With the additional current provided by the campers onboard converter charger the battery voltage would be higher than what it would be by itself. Consider if the battery voltage was 13.8V the current for 300W would be 21.7A and if the battery was @ 14.4V the current would be 20.8A. Since many converter chargers are designed to actually charge the onboard battery, I'd suspect your voltage while plugged in was ether 13.8V or 14.4V. - Mark0.
mbloof 06/20/22 07:12pm Truck Campers
RE: A Little Help With Weights

So as usual we went from the OP's question about axle weights to the weight police pulling someone over. The only one who has ever been pulled over is me. It happened in Fayetteville NC and I was pulled over buy the DOT police. He weighed each tire on a portable scale and gave me a 180 dollar ticket. He said you have to pay the ticket but all you have to do is have the truck registered from 13000 LBS to 15000 LBS, problem solved. Came back to Binghamton went to DMV and for 25 dollars they upped my weight on the spot. I even got a sticker for the door. It's amazing what money will do! I'll even put a smiley face as to not offend anyone! :) So in NC all they care about (if they actually care at all) is the weight your licensed for? LOL!! I've heard of other states doing that - allow drivers to pick the weight range (and FEE that goes along with it). BTW: Not trying to be 'weight police' just trying to understand where all these stories are coming from and if they have ANY basis in fact. I joined in 2001 and the 'stories' keep coming up like a bad lunch every few days for the last 21yrs!!! - Mark0.
mbloof 06/19/22 03:33pm Truck Campers
RE: TC and MPG

I have determined beyond the shadow of a doubt, that getting to where you're going, and staying put longer, with fewer separate destinations in between than originally planned, will unequivocally lower your fuel costs. +1 My own personal rule is that I need to spend at minimum 2x the time at any given place then the time it takes to get to/from place. Example: spend a day traveling to/from somewhere? Best stay there minimum 2 days. :) - Mark0.
mbloof 06/17/22 12:03pm Truck Campers
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