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RE: Question on switching to LiFePO4 batteries.
For now I plan to use a volt meter I have installed in my camper for SoC level which should be good enough for my use. I've "calibrated" the camper meter with a multimeter at the batteries when the isolation switch is switched off to eliminate parasitic draw. So far there no significant difference between the camper volt meter and the multimeter but I haven't taken measurements when the batteries are in a low SoC.
Good luck with that. As an example on my NL that switch only breaks the connection to the Converter/charger - the jacks+controller and fridge are directly connected to my battery(s) bypassing that switch.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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05/04/23 05:18pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How 4-season are 4 seasons Lances?
^your last sentence says it all.
You’re not going to do “better” than starting off with a 4 season camper. And with that it’ll handle below freezing temps and running water, to a point. Basement model TCs are decent here if they have or you can improve heated air exchange to the “basement”.
Reasonably the furnace will keep the camper warm down to single digit temperatures. But it will chew thru LP and battery power FAST.
Keeping the water on will just be a test. It’s not magic. But more challenging in below freezing temps. But you get what you put into it.
I was able to use our AF camper with no mods for better heat/air circulation in single digits at night 20s and sunny daytime but that was real close to the practical limit I’m sure.
A little diesel heater is a GREAT idea. And something I would do 100% if planning on any sort of regular cold weather use. And they’re relatively inexpensive. Just need to address the logistics and install.
For efficiency this would be your primary heat and the mouse turd toaster would be the redundant portion since it’s much less efficient.
An engine coolant radiator hookup in the camper is a bad idea. Scratch that one off the list. I suppose it’s possible but in no way practical. Same for the suggestion of plumbing from the truck diesel tank for a little add on diesel heater. Another solution that doesn’t solve a problem but only creates complexity and potential for failure points.
Thanks for the response. Yeah my reasoning for the Diesel heater is to limit what you are saying. One, if I can use diesel to supplement heat for travel, I can extend the time the generator can run. I've also seen some set ups with LiFePo batteries that use the truck to back up or primary charge the systems. My use case is 3 or 4 days at a time with a lot of travel in between so I mainly need 24 hours of boondocking typically.
I get your reluctance on complexity, and maybe I'm looking at it with my Engineer brain and thinking its just a matter of the right bits and pieces. I'll keep it in mind. Of course I'd do it in a way that didn't jeopardize the engine/truck systems (again more complexity).
What exactly is a diesel heater?
It is my understanding that much like a propane furnace a "diesel heater" (read - actually a furnace) draws combustion air from the outside and vents its exhaust to the outside.
The "flame" heats one side of a "heat exchanger" where cabin air is drawn in and blown out on the other side of it.
The CLAIMED current draw of some of the models available are less than the stock OEM Atwood/Suburban/?? propane furnaces.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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05/04/23 05:13pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How 4-season are 4 seasons Lances?
Thanks all for the comments. I get that I maybe asking a lot of the camper. While it's an expensive task, I'm not ready for a full Earthroamer yet. I'm a hobbyist and have done a fair bit of fabrication, and it's hard for me to not just say Ef it, and build one myself. I don't have the time for that.
@photomike My plan for the diesel heater was redundancy. I think I can possibly use a coolant heater and add a heater core to the unit. Quick disconnects for water to recirculate with the engine heater. It would serve a dual purpose and allow engine heat to warm the unit while on the road. Honestly if my wife isn't with me (She likely won't go as often as me) I can skip a day of showering. I thought about Vans honestly, all in it's way easier but I need the truck for my Car Hobby, and some other things.
@Notsobigjoe Yeah you know my area then. Which way EJ? Anyway... That's a lot of what I was thinking. I've looked at some of the doors and such, and they're not robust enough or sealed totally. I honestly like sleeping in the cold so if the unit is in the 50's at night I'm ok with that, so long as the pipes are kept warm enough. I'm an Engineer and even thought if I could fabricate an air to air heat exchanger I could figure a way out to dry out the air some, we'll see. I need to step back sometimes and not spiral away into details.
In the end, no plan survives contact with the enemy, so it might be I just need to get one and see what works.
Thanks all.
The problems with subfreezing camping are many.
#1 Having enough stored power to run the furnace. While propane catalytic heaters use no power proper ventilation is required for their use. Diesel heaters/furnaces may use less power but require another fuel source. In sub freezing temperatures (and add some wind) and your furnace is going to be running nearly non-stop in attempts to keep your camper warm. Best have a source of power or LOTS of AH to power it. :)
#2 Counter productive as it may, good ventilation is required while humans+animals are inside the camper as they give off moisture which will cause condensation on and IN anything in contact with the outside subfreezing temperatures. Add the additional wet clothing+ski gear and there is A LOT of moisture in the camper.
#3 Plumbing/basement - while most modern campers have heat ducts off the propane furnace to keep these heated all bets are off if you make use of alternative heat sources (above mentioned as well as AC electric space heaters) which won't provide heat in those areas.
I've heard of some campers using bottled water and RV antifreeze to "flush" their toilet while avoiding the use of their water system entirely. YMMV.
I'd agree with the other posters that mention the "4 season" moniker is more a marketing buzzword than any actual measure of performance.
Just IMHO, YMMV.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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05/03/23 04:44pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Question on switching to LiFePO4 batteries.
Follow-up to WarrenS65:
When it comes to accurate SOC’s, I kinda see the Bluetooth feature mostly as marketing gimmickry, while their real utility is for checking individual cell status…Further, it remains to be seen how the Bluetooth will respond to two batteries in parallel or series connection…My view is there’s no substitute for the credibility of a Victron shunt based meter..
Of all possible features, the Bluetooth feature wouldn’t be high on my ‘must have’ list - JMO
3 tons
Upon edit, the aforementioned Bluetooth SOC inaccuracy may be associated with personal charging practices, and the number of less than a FULL charge, charge cycles which overtime leads to cumulative meter drift, whereas the Victron could be FAR better at resolving cumulative drift…Just MO…
3 tons
IMHO: this is where inline current shunts (Bluetooth or not) come in handy.
Fairly simple - measure AH In/Out of battery(s).
Also IMHO: anything that relies on battery voltage to calculate an implied SOC can't possibly take into account the parasitic loads our campers have in their calculation and therefore will always be an 'approximation meter' at best.
While the simple solution is to always have more AH then you need/use our truck campers have limited space to stuff more AH in. :)
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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05/03/23 04:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Goodbye CH751 key!
I seldom lock my basement doors, parked at home, or camping. If someone wants something in there, they will get in! I'd rather make it easy, than repair the damage.
My water fill door locks with the 751, as does the outside shower door. I'm thinking just to ensure that they don't open in transit?
Jerry
I recall a car I had that got broken into. They completely tore the drivers door lock off, made off with <=$50 of stuff. I never did get a quote on fixing the damage to the door and getting a replacement lock. :)
IMHO: there IS something to be said about not making it to hard and just keeping honest folk honest.
Keeping in mind that *IF* criminals really want something, they can do more damage than whatever the lock is 'protecting' is worth. :)
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/27/23 02:04pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Just curious
Careful Mark, you might ‘trigger’ him - lol ??!!
3 tons
I don't think he has been "Un triggered" for the last three months :B
LOL!!
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/22/23 05:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: NorCal Mini Truck Camper Rally - April 2023
While I'm not going (IMHO to far to drive) HAVE FUN!!
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/21/23 04:39pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Just curious
Holy fawk….this discussion is sillier than the camper soap thread!
But GOSH!! We are ONLY on the 4th page... LOL!!!
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/20/23 06:21pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Question on switching to LiFePO4 batteries.
I'm going to replace my 2 lead acid batteries in my Bigfoot truck camper with two 100ah LiFePO4 batteries. I've previously installed a 4 way battery selector switch to allow me to keep one of my batteries at a high enough charge level to start my generator (they are run in parallel). However, this won't be necessary (and probably won't work) with the lithium batteries and I will probably need to have it at the Both position to start my generator.
My question is is can I damage the batteries if I switch to the Both position when one battery is low and the other battery is fully charged?
In a word: No.
A battery is simply a energy storage device.
No matter what "type" or chemistry the batteries are if they have the same nominal voltage (IE: 12V) then the following would be true:
Battery #1 is 12.5V and Battery #2 is 13.5V and you hook them both together in parallel along with a load. What happens?
The load will draw current from BOTH batteries but since Battery #2 is at a higher charge voltage than battery #1 some of Battery #2's energy will flow to Battery #1 until such time BOTH batteries have the same charge voltage.
If you simply hooked a not-so-much charged battery up to a fully charged battery without a actual load the "not-so-much charged battery" would still be a load to the fully charged battery until such time that both batteries have equal voltage.
So can you can see the 'wasted' energy/charge being used for the lesser charged battery?
This is why it is generally recommended that to use two or more batteries in parallel they ought to be the same Brand+type+age+capacity and charge level so stored energy is not wasted charging the other batteries in the bank.
- Mark0.
You're forgetting about the BMS and the electronics in it.
It really does not matter.
Ether the batteries are at the same charge voltage or not. Period.
Don't over think it.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/17/23 09:26am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Question on switching to LiFePO4 batteries.
I'm going to replace my 2 lead acid batteries in my Bigfoot truck camper with two 100ah LiFePO4 batteries. I've previously installed a 4 way battery selector switch to allow me to keep one of my batteries at a high enough charge level to start my generator (they are run in parallel). However, this won't be necessary (and probably won't work) with the lithium batteries and I will probably need to have it at the Both position to start my generator.
My question is is can I damage the batteries if I switch to the Both position when one battery is low and the other battery is fully charged?
In a word: No.
A battery is simply a energy storage device.
No matter what "type" or chemistry the batteries are if they have the same nominal voltage (IE: 12V) then the following would be true:
Battery #1 is 12.5V and Battery #2 is 13.5V and you hook them both together in parallel along with a load. What happens?
The load will draw current from BOTH batteries but since Battery #2 is at a higher charge voltage than battery #1 some of Battery #2's energy will flow to Battery #1 until such time BOTH batteries have the same charge voltage.
If you simply hooked a not-so-much charged battery up to a fully charged battery without a actual load the "not-so-much charged battery" would still be a load to the fully charged battery until such time that both batteries have equal voltage.
So can you can see the 'wasted' energy/charge being used for the lesser charged battery?
This is why it is generally recommended that to use two or more batteries in parallel they ought to be the same Brand+type+age+capacity and charge level so stored energy is not wasted charging the other batteries in the bank.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/16/23 07:14pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Would you get new tires ?
I bought a set of Toyo's in 2014. They have < 8000 miles on them.
Am I going to replace them anytime soon? Unless I see visible signs of rubber degration (cracks/discoloration/etc) it won't be anytime soon.
- Mark0.
Let us know how about the damage your RV if you get a blow out and how much it cost to fix the repairs. IMHO the price of tires is a sound investment$$$$
The tires in question are ~$400-500 each and are VERY overrated for the application (truck+camper).
Very doubtful there will be a issue at all. Hence no need to replace unless there is visible evidence they are degraded.
If you wish to replace perfectly good tires every X amount of years "just because" then you are more then welcome to.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/12/23 07:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Would you get new tires ?
I bought a set of Toyo's in 2014. They have < 8000 miles on them.
Am I going to replace them anytime soon? Unless I see visible signs of rubber degration (cracks/discoloration/etc) it won't be anytime soon.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/12/23 06:16pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Just curious
Been drinking rv tank water for 50yrs. Never had an issue and never sanitized a tank. Just check the water before filling and use a filter on the hose while filling.
Ditto.
I almost always carry at least 1/2 a tank as IDK if there are trustworthy water sources where I'm going and more often then not I'm boondocking/dry camping without any hookups.
While I will filter the city water via hose while filling the tank, I have no issue with drinking it OR ever having to "sanitize" the water system.
IMHO: some folks just like to make stuff more complicated than they need to be. :)
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/12/23 06:10pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: $100,000 Host Campers
Ahhh... effects of both inflation and inflated pricing.
Inflation in ALL countries the world over has made the cost of materials+labor more expensive.
Then we have the pandemic to thank for the inflated prices from when people could not toss large sums of $$$ at planes, hotels and resorts they found RV's and campgrounds to toss their money at. RV's AND campground reservations became hard to find and prices skyrocketed!
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/11/23 09:57am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Make line on driveway for camper loading?
This is what I ended up doing. After measuring the inside width of my tail gate opening I then centered two nylon straps on my camper placed at the same width -1".
Then using one (or both) mirrors - I aim one of the trucks bed rails just to the outside of one of the straps.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52783889907_9031292549_z.jpg
It works every time as long as you can see one of the ends of your bed rails in your mirror(s).
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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04/02/23 04:26pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: No power getting to my Angler 8C, 2001
Ok good evening, everyone. I was able to do some more research on it today. Ok I plugged it into a non-GFI outlet I flipped up all the breakers in the camper. Everything worked for about 30 seconds, then I heard a click, and everything went off. It never threw a breaker in the camper; it threw the breaker in my main fuse panel in my house (where it was plugged into). So, I flipped down all the breakers in the camper and hit the breaker back on in my house. So now I went and turned on the breakers in the camper one by one and it clicked again when I flipped up the breaker to the converter. So would this mean my converter is bad and causing this? I have to accept the fact that this converter may be as old as the camper, 22 years old. The converter should be located in the fuse panel of the camper? Again thank you everyone who is helping me.
Bruce
Most likely the converter, or it could be the charger. Many times they are in the same box but separate. It could also be something else on the same circuit. Unplug all electricity, take a photo of the fuse locations and pull all the fuses. Then see if you can open the front of the converter/charger. If so undo the wires from the breaker to the charger only. Now put the fuses back in and carefully plug in shore power, flip on the offending breaker and see what happens. If no tripping you have a bad charger. If it trips there is a short in the breaker panel or some other device like the microwave or whatever is also on that same circuit.
Here are some pictures
https://i.imgur.com/xSCRplZl.jpg
I had a 2001 Elkhorn 8S and yep - that looks like the factory panel and converter/charger.
However I'm at odds remembering how the thing was wired as there is a breaker for:
1. Converter/charger
2. Air Conditioning
3. Microwave
4. General
5. Main
Stock the items that can draw AC power are: the fridge, converter/charger, air conditioning(if installed), microwave (if installed). Stock your water heater is GAS only.
So the question would be if ANYTHING is getting power with the "main" breaker off.
Obviously SOMETHING is causing the house breaker (and the 'Main' one in the camper) to trip.
I'd assume that your doing what I used to do before a trip, plug in the camper to pre-cool the fridge/freezer and top off the battery.
BTW: WARNING! THAT model converter/charger is known for boiling batteries and wreaking them. There are drop-in replacements (or used to be) that have multistage charging.
Personally I'd try to isolate by shutting everything off and all breakers and just turn on the "main" breaker and see what happens.
A DVM, trouble light or probe will be useful to see where you have power. Since the goal is to charge the battery and/or pre-cool the fridge, if the "main" breaker does not trip with all the other breakers off, next turn on the converter/charger breaker with the main and see what happens.
Then do each breaker one at a time paired with the main and see which ones can be on with the main without tripping.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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03/30/23 04:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: New to truck camping ...
Hi all, just picked up a nice 2014 camplite 6.8 to sit on our 2022 F350. My wife is not sure camping is for her so I'm looking for some good sites and advice on places to book or check out to get the family into it. We love being near water and want to avoid large busy campgrounds. Also LOVE state parks. Are there any sites I should check out or parks I should be sure not to miss? Just returned from a trip to the keys (hotel) and really liked the look of Bahia Honda State Park ... definitely looks like a special place. Any help getting started is much appreciated.
PS. we are near Niagara Falls and will start out on the East Coast and South East next winter. Thank you.
Sorry I have not read through the thread so much of what I'm going to say might of been already mentioned...
First off - Welcome to the wonderful world of Truck Camper camping! While the camper ought to keep the family warm+dry if the weather goes south while your on your trips, IDK if it includes a toilet or not (the little women usually like the indoor features) camping WITH a RV is surely easier to get "the other halfs" into then camping without.
Now for a bit of bad news... being it is March already you better getting surfing ONLINE and do it quickly!! Why? Because around where I live ALL campgrounds are booked solid 6 MONTHS OUT!!! Getting any kind of reservation on a weekend is nearly impossible!
Best of luck!
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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03/19/23 04:54pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: part three of the broken frame saga.
It is obvious all us camp differently. Some are happy wiith 500 lbs of gear while other campers are pushing 7000 lbs.
I have a 10.5 foot camper that weighs 2600lbs wet, and loard for camping I am right at 3000lbs.. I have a hard time understanding what people take to make it weight that much haha.. now my 5th wheel I probably do have 1500lbs of "stuff" but where would you put all that in a truck camper.
How much does a case of Beer weigh? ~1 per day per person over X days... :) :)
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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03/15/23 10:32am |
Truck Campers
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RE: part three of the broken frame saga.
Ahhh the age old questions that nobody ever seems to agree on:
What is a road?
What is 'off road'?
What is a 'jeep trail'?
Roads come in many flavors. Everything from very smooth paved interstate highways to secondary roads (with and without potholes) to well/not groomed gravel (with and without potholes) to flat dirt to uneven/rutted and potholed dirt.
My personal dividing line is that if it is on a ROAD MAP (or USGS map) I call it a road. If not, it must be something else.
IMHO that OEM trucks are simply NOT designed to be hauling +4KLBS down jeep trails and creek beds.
Of course that does not stop anyone from doing it.
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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03/14/23 07:36pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: It looks like my truck camper days are over.
Prayers for a speedy recovery.
(I see you were able to salvage some booze from the wreck. When this settles out have yourself a drink!) :)
- Mark0.
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mbloof
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03/08/23 03:42pm |
Truck Campers
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