At the $20K budget level, you will be looking more for something in good shape rather than something with specific features or a specific model. In other words, you can't afford to be fussy.
Remember, a longbed truck can haul any camper, but a shortbed can't.
Also, cab length is not relevant when it comes to hauling a camper. Regular, extended, or crew, doesn't matter. Sure the extended cabover campers might look a little funny on a regular cab truck, but they will still work fine.
Shortbed campers are a fairly recent development, and have only become common in the last 10 years or so. You will be looking at older campers >10 years old in your budget range, so assume you're going to end up with a long bed camper.
It's a noble idea, but it probably won't work out well from the standpoint that very few people will even realize the sticky is there, so nobody will know about the program.
I fancy myself a fairly typical user, and I don't know the last time I looked at a sticky. I don't know the last time I NOTICED the stickys. Normally I just roll right over them without a thought. I suspect a vast majority of people are the same way.
Yes, yes, bad on me because I'm probably missing something important/useful, but you can't deny human nature.
i'd worry that a good gust of wind would catch under that roof and flip that thing!
I don't think the camper is in that state anymore. OP stated he was one coat of paint from installing the siding. That picture is more than one coat of paint from installing siding.
I believe that was a picture from some time ago.
Why would you have to cut the cord to do that? Just use your extension cord with the main line.
1. Power at RV parks and campgrounds is iffy to poor most of the time. The farther it has to travel, the more voltage drop you get. Anything you can do to shorten the path to your RV will help.
2. You don't have to buy an expensive extension cord. All you need is a mating pair of L5-30 twistlocks, or some other appropriate 30A 120V connection.
Yeah, those shelters are WORTHLESS for any amount of snow.
They will collapse and cause more damage than could possibly happen just leaving the camper exposed.
I would just make sure the tarps are secure, and figure on shoveling once or twice during the storm.
My B1500 has NO internal tanks, grey or black.
Either you let the gray water run on the ground, or you run a hose to an external catch can.
For me, showers are ~1.5 gallons per day, though I have been taking long generous showers of 2-2.5 gallons as of late, when I'm only staying around 1-3 nights by myself.
Most of the places I camp are private property, and everyone just lets what little gray water they create, trickle out on the ground underneath their rigs. By the time they pull out, it's long since soaked in and dried up. There is no smell. It's only icky if you crawl under the rig and roll in it while it's wet.
10.4 to 12.5 is a 20% increase in fuel economy.
Gotta keep that in mind. The number may be small but the gain is HUGE when you're talking about such low MPG values.
Could you dig cutting your fuel bill by 20%?
The frame and drivetrain are supposed to be the same as the 2010-up trucks, I thought. All they did was change the body.
Unfortunately, this is the price you pay for being "first." Neither Torklift nor Happijac get access to the vehicles any sooner than you do, and it takes time to modify the design and get the new tiedowns into production.
Let's alleviate some confusion:
If you have a 1500HD, you do not have a 1/2 ton truck.
If you have a 4.8L, you do not have a 1500HD.
The GM 1500HD is a "light" 3/4 ton truck. 8-bolt hubs. 8600lb GVWR, same as a plain GM 2500. Semi-floating rear axle. Crew cab short box only. 6.0L engine only. Also has "HD" on the door.
With the MPG numbers you gave, and the fact that you mentioned 4.8L, you have a plain old GM 1500.
People use the term "heavy duty" to describe anything stronger than toilet paper, "Oh it's real heavy duty, it's got lots of power and can carry lots of weight." Lots, being a relative term, usually meaning anything above zero. Just because the guy that sold it to you called it "heavy duty" does not make it an HD.
That's a factory setup, and has probably been that way for 30-35 years.
Kinda blows the "you need to obey ALL the limits, or you will kill your children and a busload of orphans and nuns in a flaming cartwheel of death the second your wheels touch a public road" theory out of the water.
Does kinda prove my point that COMFORT will be a factor long before safety. I can't imagine that thing handles particularly well. 60-65? Maybe downhill with a tailwind.
You don't see many like that because they were gutless and mushy off the showroom floor, and nobody could stand to drive them! I can't imagine it drives any better 35 years later.
I saw my rear end as rated at 6500 pounds. Seemed light to me. 8800 seems better.
But, you can't just wave your hands and "wish" a new weight rating on your truck. If it were possible, I would make all pickup trucks rated to carry a billion pounds and we would never have to argue over weight again.
In short, the weight of the "actual axle and tires and everything" COUNTS.
If the RAWR on the door panel says 6084lbs, that means for EVERYTHING from the tires, rims, brakes, axle, shocks, springs, frame, bed, tailgate, gas tank, gasoline, brake lines, fuel lines, bolts, nuts, bumper, license plate, receiver, plus anything you put in the bed or hitch to the receiver.
To find out how much your truck can handle, you weigh it EMPTY, and then subtract that weight from the RAWR number.
I currently own two trucks, a 2003 Chevy 1500 with 205,000 miles, and the 2002 Chevy 3500 in my sig with 39,000 miles. The 1500 is getting long in the tooth.
I bought the 3500 for my "play" truck because I was driving 50 miles a day, so keeping the 1500 for a DD made sense.
Now my driving is about 18 miles a day, so having an HD pickup as a daily driver is more palatable.
I gotta have a truck for my DD. Can't stand cars.
Consolidating to one truck is good on many levels, except that it has to have a long bed AND crew or extended cab. Long bed for the camper, crew cab for the kids.
I'd be driving the pickup truck equivalent of a container ship for the next 10 years... Not sure if that will work.
When purchasing my new Honda 2000,I ask the sales person about a propane conversion for it.His reply was that honda does not offer them and does not suggest using them.Also doing so would void the warranty. Just saying.
Honda says a lot of things that are influenced by CYA. Like, you can't parallel more than two generators together (untrue). Like, you can't parallel two generators of different sizes together (untrue). Like, you can't parallel two different brands of generators together (untrue).
They also "forbid" extended run tanks, or aftermarket parallel kits that actually let you use the full output of two eu2000i's.
If you're willing to look past Honda's myopic paranoid predatory protectionist butt-concealment policies, these generators are even more amazing and capable than even Honda claims. So what if it voids the warranty? If a Honda survives the first couple of hours of operation, it's in it for the long haul.
If you aren't dead set on a specific brand and model of anything, you can get a real nice rig on the cheap.
Buy what's in good shape, priced right, will fit together, and does the job for you.
People get so stuck on a particular specific model of camper. When you do that, you severely limit yourself to either having to pay way too much for a waterlogged pile, or having to buy a new unit.
One specific model of camper is NOT going to come along every day. You're not going to have your pick of the litter. If you end up with what you wanted at the price you wanted to pay, you are EXTREMELY lucky. People spend years chasing that dream.
Take the first nice camper that comes along at a smokin' deal, that has the features you absolutely can't live without. It's easy to do it on the cheap then.
Same goes with the truck. If you fixate on a specific year or color or set of luxury options, you will pass over that smokin' deal on a great truck, maybe even that vaunted dually diesel...
3/4 ton has traditionally described trucks with 20/25/200/250/2500 model designations.
We use "traditional" terms for things that aren't 100% technically accurate ALL THE TIME. "Vise Grips" are any locking pliers. "Crescent wrench" is any adjustable wrench. "Kleenex" is any snotrag. "Koolaid" is any flavored drink made from a sugar-based powder mix.
Why is there such a faff over the 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton designations?
Jeez, 10 gallons????
I know it makes you feel better but you must have a heck of a mess on your hands come spring, and it must take most of the summer to get the antifreeze smell out of the water.
You can winterize with a gallon or less and have 100% protection.
A little splash of water in the bottom of a tank or in a water line will NOT cause problems even if it freezes. It has air space to expand into, and can't burst the lines.
The problem comes when the line/tank is FULL. There's no place for the water to expand when it freezes, and that's how things get broken.
Ideally you want a winterizing (siphon) kit on your pump, and a bypass on your water heater. Just drain everything as best you can, blow out the lines with an air hose, and suck a gallon of pink stuff into the pump with the winterizing hose.