To be fair, the ones running F-350 duallys @ 1000lbs over are a lot less overweight as a % of their payload capacity than a Tundra @ 1000lbs over.
A typical F-350 has 4000-6000lbs of payload capacity. Being 1000lbs overweight is 16-25% overloaded.
A typical Tundra has 1200-1500lbs of payload capacity. Being 1000lbs overweight is 66%-83% overloaded.
Just put the 1000lbs into each empty truck and tell me it's the same. The F-350 will squat a fraction of an inch. The Tundra will squat 3-4 inches.
If it's for the mini trucks, it will probably be something like the current SS-600 model, which weighs around 1100lbs.
You've got more than enough truck for it, probably close to 2000lbs payload capacity as it sits.
Yesterday we had a guy who runs around with a Lance 815 on the back of his Tundra, and claims no issues. If you can't haul a camper made to fit a Ford Ranger around on one of those HD F150's, we all may as well give up.
Please stop talking nonsense. Okanagan absolutely did not design this camper to be "incompatible." You don't need to sell your camper!
2" behind the axle is NOTHING. Your owner's manual will specify a wide range of COG locations over the axle. I've seen anywhere from an 18" range, to "anywhere in the truck bed."
AFAIK the only manufacturer that makes cabover struts is Lance.
Since they don't make them for the Dodge Megacab, you're out of luck.
I suspect they don't make them, mostly because they haven't had any call for them. You don't see many Megacabs to begin with, let along Megacabs hauling TCs, let alone Megacabs hauling LANCE TCs, let alone Megacabs hauling Lance TCs large enough for cabover struts. IIRC, Dodge/RAM does not recommend hauling a slide-in TC with a Megacab. On top of that you don't see many cabover struts either.
From a technical standpoint, a Megacab is longer, a LOT longer than even a normal crew cab. It may not be possible to get a good angle to properly support the camper. The angle may be too flat due to the distance, so the struts won't do any good and may actually do more harm than good.
What specific problem are you trying to address? Or, do you just think you "need" them?
Maybe there is another way to address your issue, rather than drilling holes in your nice truck.
Yes sign man, but how much did you have to spend on modifications for the Tundra in order to get it to where you "don't even know it's back there half the time?"
You are easily 1000lbs over the truck's manufacturer specifications on weight, not to mention well beyond the rated capacity of the stock tires.
Just because it can be done does not mean everyone should do it. Frankly it takes a special kind of person to slap a 2500lb camper in a 1/2 ton truck and hit the road, and I mean that in a POSITIVE way.
You've got to be a da*ned good driver.
You've got to have a good technical and analytical mind to determine what you need to add to the truck to handle the load.
You've got to be good with tools to install all the add-ons.
You've got to be patient and expect it will take you a little longer to get from A to B.
You've got to have an overwhelmingly positive attitude towards life.
Frankly, I got sick of the mushy, sluggish handling just towing around a 3500lb trailer with my 1/2 ton pickup. I couldn't imagine trying to haul a 2500lb camper.
2" behind is NOTHING.
Even if your camper weighed 5000lbs, the effect is equivalent to a trailer with a 210lb tongue weight, as far as weight removed from the front wheels.
The day you can't tow a trailer with a 210lb tongue weight with a dually without a WD hitch is the day I eat my dually.
Your floaty feeling may just be suspension. With 5000lbs in the bed the truck will ride more like a Rolls Royce than a dually.
Hopefully those "armpit" areas aren't structural box beams or something...
In a basement model, those armpits would be your interior floor.
Come to think of it, my Palomino doesn't have those armpits. The section in the bed is straight vertical up to the wing.
This is my novice mind wondering, but I wonder how difficult it would be to make one with bigger wheels, so it can be used to move the TC around, even if it is on gravel or rougher terrain that the smaller casters might not function well on. That would be quite useful for outside storage lots.
I tried, and it doesn't work as well as you'd hope it would.
Last fall I built a camper dolly using 10" pneumatic caster wheels in the hopes of being able to roll my camper around my crushed stone floor barn.
The crushed stone has been packed down for a long time and has plenty of dirt mixed in so it is very smooth and solid.
I used ten casters, each with a capacity of 300lbs, spaced evenly along the length of the camper, to move a 1600lb camper.
When I first dropped the camper on the dolly, the wheels under the front of the camper just about popped from the weight. I had to move extra wheels under the front of the camper.
Even with the tires pumped up hard, it does not roll well on my barn floor. I can not imagine trying to roll it on grass.
You have no idea what was changed or customized on your camper since 1995.
This camper has very small holding tanks. They cannot hold all the water from the fresh tank, plus your waste, even combined.
It is likely that the previous owner rerouted the shower and sink drains to the hose that you found, so they would drain outside into a bucket or a blue tote.
When you said, "tumbling down" did you mean a length of hose came out and water started running from it?
As long as the water is not draining INSIDE the camper, do not worry about it. Use a bucket to catch the water, or if the campground allows it, let it run on the ground!
You will be wishing you had NOT "fixed" the problem after one or two trips.
You need some source of 12V for most of the systems.
With a dead converter and no battery, you can't run the furnace, water heater, refrigerator, lights, sink, or shower. No matter how much 110VAC power you have.
As you've discovered, even the smallest of the smallest compact truck campers is going to be too heavy for your truck no matter what numbers you go by, and that's if you like to camp alone, naked, cold, and hungry.
I have been in your shoes, and it kept me out of a truck camper for about 3 years, until I finally decided to buy a bigger truck. There was no way it was going to work without major modifications to my current truck at the time, and then it would all be a compromise.
People have done exactly what you're proposing and have been successful. It's entirely up to you if you want to take on the challenge and work through modifying the truck with a better axle and stiffer springs.
Others have gotten in over their heads. Those are the people you're likely to be buying your first used camper from, because they were so unhappy with how things worked on the first few trips that they unloaded the camper and it's been sitting in the back yard ever since.
Right truck for the load gives you best chance for success, and the best chance to be happy with your first camping experiences, so you keep going.
I apologize for responding without knowing the exact answer to your exact question, but perhaps I can make some recommendations to help you find your answer.
Right off the bat, not many people use cabover struts. Nearly, possibly completely, NONE of the replies you will receive here will be based on actual experience. They will be almost pure conjecture.
Second, you are not going to find anyone in this forum who would be familiar enough with the structure of your camper at an engineering level to give you a educated answer.
Your first level of expertise would be the camper dealer. After that, you need to contact Lance directly for the answer. I suspect that they will give you the same answer as the dealer did: Not recommended. They will probably not expand on that answer or give a specific reason why.
Ultimately, nobody is really going to *KNOW* the answer to your question, not even the engineers who designed your camper. They designed the camper to handle the struts where the brackets are currently mounted. They did not perform any analysis on having the struts mounted anywhere else on the camper because they did not think anyone would want to mount them in a different location, so it was not worth the expense to perform the analysis.
You're basically on your own.
IMHO, is it really worth saving $600 to risk damaging a $40,000+ camper?
I can't imagine that having a motor re-wound would be cheaper than buying a new one. Not many people do that work anymore to begin with, and they charge an exorbitant hourly rate when they do.
Just a couple of weeks ago I got my 10KW tractor-powered generator back from the electric shop. Bad windings. It was going to cost more than a new one to have it re-wound. It's scrap.
In the past the Fords were always the heaviest of the 3 or at least that has been my observation after owning all 3 brands over the years and friends weighing their rigs also. They keep raising the GVWR but they don't tell us that they raise the weight of the truck also. So you think by buying a new truck that you have increased the payload but come to find out it hardly made much difference. This happened to me when the 1999 Super Duty first came out. I bought a new dually because they raised the GVWR but when I weighed it I found out I had almost the same payload as my older truck.
I am really surprised this hasn't been mentioned more often , it's been going on for a long time . Another way to dupe the public .
I've never seen any truck manufacturer ADVERTISE their GVWR. I've always seen raw payload numbers, "up to XXXXlbs, when properly equipped."
There's no magic solution.
Penetrating sprays do not work instantly. If you spray it and the bolt instantly turns or the mount instantly pops out of the socket, it was going to come out anyway. The spray didn't hurt but it also didn't help.
WD-40 is a poor penetrating spray. Use their special-purpose penetrating lube, or PB blaster, or Kroil, or Liquid Wrench, or a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Even then it will take at least 24 hours to do any good at all, probably longer.
The quickest solution is "heat and beat." You need an oxy-acetylene torch to provide the heat, or 3-4 propane torches all at once. A single propane torch cannot put out the BTUs to heat the outer sleeve to a high enough temperature. It will get too hot to touch, but not hot enough to expand because the heat dissipates faster than the torch can replenish it.
Electric water heater tstats are pretty universal.
Makes me glad I have an old-school mechanical tstat on my water heater. 2000 was probably one of the last years you could get something like that.
I really like it because I can set the thermostat to its lowest setting and use straight hot water to shower.
There are a couple of practical reasons why a campground owner would choose to exclude TCs:
1. Liability from jack failure/tipover with camper off the truck.
2. Removal/disposal of abandoned units. With a wheeled unit, all you need is a tractor or wheel loader and a chain to drag it away. A TC requires a heavy duty pickup truck, and are a pain to load for someone who doesn't do it regularly.
That's assuming it isn't some rot box whose jacks have collapsed. Now they've got a REAL mess to clean up.
Most campgrounds have some sort of wheel loader or tractor, but in my travels, campground pickup trucks are either old 1/2 tons, or have service bodies on them, and are generally loaded to the gills with maintenance junk. Some campgrounds don't have pickups at all. Their service vehicles are UTVs.
You're just not going to get very far dragging a TC with a wheel loader.
I've been told that these are BS reasons before, but when you realize how big of a cheapskate the typical campground owner is, you'll understand that anything they don't have to spend money on is a bonus.
TC's aren't that common so they figure they're not losing a whole lot of business.
Not sure what you searched on but this subject comes up frequently. Yes there are RV parks that "discriminate" against truck campers.
Not "many" by any stretch of the imagination, though. A few, maybe some, but not "many."
If you come across one, just move on to the next campground. Good or bad, it's private enterprise at its finest. It's how someone wants to run their business, and how its run is none of your business.
Ok, can we go back to the jacks for a second?
Flexing and bending on uneven surfaces is NORMAL, in that it is not indicative of something wrong with the camper or the jacks. Look at how long and spindly they are! The jacks will never be perfectly rigid, and will flex some on an uneven surface.
This is why your jacking surface needs to be fairly flat and level.
Now, if the camper body itself is bulging and flexing, then you've got a problem.
Also, you can "walk" the camper with the jacks, using that flexibility, to reposition it in the bed of the truck without completely unloading it and starting over. If for example the camper is too far to the right, then jack the camper up so it is a few inches higher on the right, then lower it back down on the left side first. The camper will land in the truck 1/2" to 1" over to the left.