I carry motorcycles up front and have not had cooling issues. At all. I have 1500 pounds of spare payload on my front axle when I have the trailer hooked up, and that's with my 500# bumper & winch. So yeah, weigh your truck. I'm not sure how some folks are maxed out with nothing up front...
I'm not sure how some folks could have 1500lbs of spare payload on the front axle with a 500lb bumper and winch, when I barely have 500lbs of spare payload capacity on my front axle with a gas engine and an otherwise empty stock truck.
I already own it for my current set up.....
Then set it up and use it. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. It will ride better, and it will handle better.
The new RAM is a 1500 right? Factory receiver is limited to 500lbs of tongue weight before you need a WD hitch. That is a RECEIVER limit, not a truck limit.
If your trailer's tongue is over 500lbs, you need the WD hitch even if your truck has auto-level.
I wish there was a "This is your F150. This is your F150 with a 1600lb truck camper. Any questions?" video on Youtube.
If someone could loan me a mid 2000's F150 regular cab long bed truck for a couple hours and wouldn't mind me putting the weight of my camper on it for a few minutes, I would be happy to make one.
Just to show people what a 1600lb camper does to a stock F150, so they can make their decision from there.
You don't need to know how much it weighs. Base weight is 1610lbs, and it only goes up from there.
At 1610lbs, it's already exceeding the rated payload capacities of most F150s and other 1500-series trucks. That's before you've installed any optional equipment, put any of your stuff in it, or even gotten into the driver's seat. I would not be surprised if camper, stuff, driver, and passengers was pushing 2500lbs by the time all is said and done.
It would be okay on an F150 with the max payload package, though, as those have around 3000lbs payload.
A 5000lb truck camper with the COG 6" behind the rear axle has the same effect on the front axle as a 500lb tongue weight on a ball hitch at the receiver. In other words, not even noticeable.
For the COG of the camper to be making the truck of the front end "light," it would have to be near the rear edge of the truck bed.
I really don't think what you felt was the front end "getting light." Duallys have very stiff suspensions, and they will launch you into space if you hit a bump hard.
I once made the mistake of rolling over a speed bump at more than a crawl with my empty dually, and threw my back out.
It would behoove you to SLOW DOWN when you anticipate hitting a significant bump, rather than just charge over it at speed like you would with a softly-suspended car or half ton truck.
You list DRY weights for your trailer, so really you're probably looking at closer to a 7000lb+ trailer with 1000lb+ tongue weight.
Torklift's Superhitch system is designed for use with a WD hitch extended as much as 48", and still has a 1200/12000lb trailer capacity at that length IIRC.
Reese makes an extension tube that does up to 34", but near as I can tell it is only rated for 600/6000lb trailers with WD.
Beyond that, the extensions you can find in stores, or from online sources like etrailer.com, are only rated for 350/3500 or 500/5000 at most, not for use with WD hitches.
Really, the only commercially available manufactured solution with the capacity you need is the Torklift Superhitch.
Truck camper guys that don't go with the Superhitch usually build something themselves or have it fabricated professionally. This requires some engineering know-how, though.
Is that a new model? I didn't know Northstar was making a short bed camper with toilet and shower. That's pretty neat. I would have been interested in something like that about 5 years ago.
From what I can tell, the layout is very similar to my Palomino, just smaller. Main difference is the fridge is on the passenger side due to space limitations, and it looks like there's only room for one to sit at the dinette.
Nothing wrong with the layout. It's very similar to my Palomino and pretty much every truck camper I've seen. Standard, just compressed.
The camper is definitely for someone who spends the majority of the trip outdoors.
I heard on the radio this morning that CAT Scales now has an app for your smartphone that allows you to weigh and pay from the truck.
Pretty neat. Now if only there was a CAT scale within 40 miles that didn't involve an extra trip through the thruway tool booths...
This is what I use for a reducer sleeve. A 12" weldable receiver tube. It fits right in my 2.5" receiver perfectly, and supports the shank along its entire length. No more slop than what you'd get out of the 2" shank in a 2" receiver.
The original hole was half a hole off, so I turned it 90 degrees, marked for new holes, and drilled them in the right place. Extra holes are irrelevant because it's not structural.
Make every effort to find a unit that can run off 12VDC.
There is nothing worse than being camped next to someone who has to have TWO Honda 2000's running ALL NIGHT LONG to run his CPAP. I'm tossing and turning while he's snoozing away in air-conditioned CPAP-fed comfort. Then at 4AM one generator runs out of gas, and the other one goes to WIDE-OPEN for the next three hours.
If I didn't absolutely have to be there the next day I would have packed up and left.
The one thing I don't understand is, can't you live without it for ONE night? I mean, you've lived 50, 60, 70+ years without it. Is one night going to kill you? If it were me I would go without the thing rather than inconvenience everyone else at the campsite.
If you can't live without it one night, or if you camp frequently, there is NO EXCUSE for not getting one that can run off 12VDC. Heck you want that for power outages at home anyway.
There's a HUGE difference between GM's 2-year/24,000 mile service program, and "free" oil changes FOR LIFE.
The stipulations for "life" oil changes are CRYSTAL CLEAR. If you bring the truck in for everything else, the oil change is no additional cost to you. Whether you feel you're being screwed or not is your prerogative.
With the GM program, you get up to four oil changes, then it's on you to figure out what to do from there. As far as I can see, there is no pressure.
The GM program on my 2015 has convinced me that I want to continue taking my truck to this particular dealer for service. They are competitive with the instant oil change places. The people are factory-trained and career-minded; they've been there for years as compared to days/weeks for the instant places.
I used to change my own oil but I got sick of having to spend an hour jacking the car up so I could get underneath (my head won't squeeze between the frame and the ground, let alone the rest of me), then shimmying in and out on my back multiple times (creepers don't work on dirt), never having the right tools when I get under there (who remembers whether it's a 13mm, 14mm, 15mm or 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, or what size strap wrench it takes?), burning my arms and hands with the hot oil and hot exhaust pipes (words not fit for this website go here)... I took ALL the wrenches with me once and STILL didn't have the right one!!!
When I have whines, groans, creaks, or squeals that nobody can identify, I just have to keep driving the truck until something breaks, or the noise at least gets so bad that the mechanics can't deny that it's there anymore.
At least with the reducer sleeves I've seen for sale:
Take the reducer and slide it over the shank. Notice that it doesn't cover the entire length of the shank.
Slide the reducer into your receiver tube. If you stick it in short end first the long end sticks out. If you stick it in long end first the short end doesn't come out to the end of the receiver.
That's the perfect recipe for SLOP. With everything chucking around, holes get wallowed out, and the sleeve gets wallowed out.
I'm ready to just say, "Tow whatever the bleep you want, but don't come crying when you hate how it handles, when it scares you to death, or when something bad happens."
You try to make it simple, but it doesn't matter because it's not the answer they want to hear, "But, if I pack light, or don't take water, or fill the tires with helium, can't I just...?" Fine. If they don't mind being tied to weighing every last crumb, and tied to commercial campgrounds for every trip. Fine. If they don't mind 10 years of payments on something they may never use. Fine.
While this is a great HYPOTHETICAL discussion, in real life IT DOES NOT HAPPEN.
The reason for using GVWR is that you do NOT know any ACTUAL weights. There are three sure things in life: Death, taxes, and the trailer always weighs way more than you think it does.
If actual weights are known and can be verified, that is one thing, but I've never seen an RV dealer with their own DOT-certified 3-platform vehicle scales on site, and I have never seen an RV dealer that will let you take a trailer for a "test tow" to a CAT scale facility 20, 30, 40, 50 miles away.
Actual as-shipped "dry" weights of trailers are a few hundred to several hundred pounds heavier than what it says on the brochure.
Using GVWR gives you a safe cushion because you can be reasonably sure that the trailer will not exceed that weight.
It is a lot simpler than making wild stabs in the dark as to what things weigh, and you stand a much better chance of ending up with a rig that you will enjoy driving, instead of something you hate driving, or worse are afraid to drive.
All we give here is our opinions. You can choose to believe or not believe whoever you want. It is all food for thought. Try to view the information with a logical, rational mind rather than looking for someone to tell you what you want to hear.
In the grand scheme does it matter? NO. If you can get accurate weights and the lightly-loaded 9500lb GVWR trailer is light enough to tow, then there is nothing wrong with that. The problem is most of us do not have the means to know ahead of time and frankly I would not want to drop tens of thousands of my hard-earned dollars on something only to find out that I was LIED to and I'm STUCK with an overpriced lawn ornament.
X2 on removing any unknown caulk.
I don't care what anyone says, do not use silicone caulk. It is designed to be used on a house that isn't bounced, shaken, and dragged down 1000's of miles of road. Most silicone caulks can be peeled right off smooth surfaces after they've fully cured in my experience.
Dicor is sticky, stays sticky, and stays flexible. That's what you want on an RV that's going to be rattling and shifting around all the time.
If you are looking at used campers, don't limit yourself to one brand or model.
In my case I did not set out looking specifically for a Palomino B1500. I looked at several campers and this one was by far in the best shape and the price was too good to pass up.
With used campers the overall condition is more important than the company's reputation or whether the company is still in business or anything else. There's no warranty on a used camper anyway, and nothing is so specific that it can't be fixed by you or at worst a competent RV service center.
On my B1500, I like it for what it is. It's still in excellent shape because it was kept inside before I bought it, and has been kept inside since. The shower pan was a problem, but I found a creative solution.
I've had it 5 years now, and just last summer I finally added a few creature comforts including a rooftop air conditioner, 15" flatscreen, and a memory foam mattress on the dinette bed.