Well right off the bat, towing is never going to be like a Sunday ride to church in the family minivan. You've got a tow vehicle with a stiff suspension meant to carry weight, not ride like a cloud, and you've got a massive trailer behind you with even less attention paid to ride quality in the suspension design.
Bucking and bouncing can indicate that you've got too much weight on the truck and/or the weight is too far back. I assume you have a shortbed truck. Do you have anything like a Sidewinder hitch that places the actual pin of the trailer near the rear of the truck bed? Are you running a slider hitch in the rear position? The factory location of the pin should, ideally, be within a few inches of the truck axle.
Weight wise, unless you are all over 250lbs, or carry massive amounts of heavy items in the truck bed, you should be okay. The factory pin weight is just shy of 2000lbs on that trailer. 3000lbs, even 3500lbs, between pin, passengers, and stuff, is no problem for that truck.
How does it sit? Level? Squatting? If squatting you might want to add Timbrens or airbags to level it out.
Shocks never hurt, but I don't think they'll necessarily help in this case. That truck is 4 years old and depending on the mileage the factory shocks just might have bit it already.
If the truck is not swaying a sway bar won't make any difference.
Actually, width does make a difference.
An 8' trailer is 101" wide including wheels and fenders. On a lot of roads that is a tight fit between the lines, so if you wander at all you're either off on the shoulder or in the oncoming lane. It's a constant butt-clenching challenge to maintain yourself PERFECTLY centered in the lane.
That's specifically why I chose a 7' wide trailer with the wheels tucked in. It's no wider than the vehicle towing it, so if you're between the lines, the trailer is between the lines.
The one thing I would not be concerned about is the changing tongue weight.
First off the structure of the telescoping tongue only ADDS weight to the tongue. Second off a longer tongue tends to make the trailer more stable, requiring a smaller percentage of tongue weight.
But, it's still going to be heavier than it is now, extended or retracted. If it tows good now it will tow as good or better extended.
Are you saying the X-chock still won't fit on the curb (i.e. right) side?
You only mention the street side, which you said fit fine before.
The X-chocks were interchangeable. When we discovered the problem on the curb-side, we took both X-chocks over to the street-side to verify that we had a curb-side problem and not a problem with either X-chock. Both chocks worked well on the curb-side.
I am asking about *AFTER* they "fixed" it.
You do not mention whether the X-chock will fit on the CURB side after the trailer shop was finished working on it. Only the street side. The street side fit before, so I don't know why you'd even check that.
Though, if the tires are 1/2" larger, they're likely on their way out. I'd replace them ASAP.
There are 11 different models of "Momentum" toy haulers, with dry pin weights ranging from 2400lbs to 3400lbs. Any of them would be pushing the limits for a 2500-class pickup truck, let alone one of those "fru-fru" Rambox trucks that probably only have about 1200lbs of payload capacity.
Ok, whatever. Make it out of bubble gum and rubber bands. It'll be fine.
In the first pictures, what is keeping the tongue extension from sliding out and the trailer from sailing off into the sunset if that pin breaks? NOTHING. And that will pass a safety inspection? I doubt it.
Every so often you will come across a "testimonial" on this forum from someone who just upgraded from a 1/2 ton (i.e. F150) class truck to a 3/4 ton (i.e. F250) class truck, and almost universally, they describe the difference as "night and day." You might want to go look some of them up to get a more subjective feel for the difference, rather than people spouting numbers off to you.
In a word you don't know what you're missing until you've experienced it. You may feel that towing with the F150 is just fine, but that's because you don't have anything to compare it to. All the behaviors like the subtle jerking, mushy feel of the suspension, bracing every time a big truck comes along, the "will it or won't it" feel to the brakes, etc., all gone with the heavier truck. You may have never been in any physical danger, but it just FEELS like you've got so much more control over the situation.
Based on weight alone I wouldn't bother with a WD hitch.
Check the trailer manual before you install a WD hitch if you decide to go that way. You're not supposed to use a WD hitch on many trailers that size, due to the lightweight construction of the tongue. Larger trailers are made from some pretty significant box tubing, 2-3" wide and 5-6" deep. These little trailers often have light C-channel tongues maybe 1-2" wide and 3" deep.
Let's take a little different angle on the discussion:
What don't you like about the heaters you've tried?
If they don't keep the camper warm enough, go back to what others have said previously: All electric heaters are 100% efficient. Watts = BTUs. One 1500W heater isn't going to produce more heat than any other 1500W heater.
A single heater just won't produce enough BTUs to keep the camper comfortably warm if it's that cold. Two heaters will overload a single circuit in your camper, and if you do happen to connect them to separate circuits, you're pretty much maxxed out on the 30A shore power, especially if the converter is charging the house battery.
Now there are some creative solutions for this. I personally would take my 50A-to-twin-30A splitter out to the power post, feed the two 30A receptacles into the camper, and run a heater off each leg.
You guys missed one thing:
He wants a TELESCOPING tongue, not just an extended tongue.
I'm not sure such a thing is even legal. You'd have to check state laws on trailer construction.
For sure you'd need at least two ways to lock the tongue in position. It would be counterproductive to have a lone locking pin fall out or fail in a hard stop, sending the trailer into the rear of the camper.
For sure you'd want the slip fit to be TIGHT. You don't want it rattling around on you back there. Of course then a little bit of rust will cause the telescoping tubes to seize tight.
For sure you'd want the extension to be STOUT. Big beefy square tubing, but also be aware that with the stout come the pounds. It will definitely be heavier than a receiver extension, that's for sure.
What a gear ratio does is cause the engine to turn at a higher RPM at any given speed. More RPM equates to more Horsepower being transmitted to the wheels, at least up to the peak RPM in the HP curve.
Yes, it is true that the engine's capacity to produce power is not changed.
The engine will run about 300RPM faster at highway speed going from 3.73 to 4.10.
If you are happy with how it tows now, I agree with the others, 500lbs will not make a noticeable difference. HOWEVER, if the new trailer has significantly more frontal area than the old trailer, you may still need the gear change. Most of your power needs come from wind drag.
One of these things, right?
In the 100MPH wind, the trailer probably lifted off the ground, which is why the stand wasn't damaged.
Unless you get 100MPH winds regularly, I would not worry about it.
My suggestion: GO SHOPPING!
The big RV show season is just starting, at least around here, and probably where you are too. Hit the shows, go inside the units, see what you like and what you don't. Climb into the shower and see how it fits. Sit on the toilet. Lay on the bed. Move around in the kitchen.
Salesmen won't bother you. I've been to several shows and the sales people don't even bother looking up from their newspapers even though I'm crawling all over their trailers like a spider monkey.
Once you get an idea as to what size trailer you want, start searching the inventories of all the local RV dealers. They generally have a lot of used trailers on the lot. Watch your local Craigslist.
Keep in mind the actual physical capacity of components and systems does not matter given the plastic door sticker's ability to alter the molecular structure of the materials...
What's the name of the doctor that implanted your "calibrated eyeball" that allows you to determine the actual physical capacity of components and systems by just looking at them?
I feel they should be mandatory for anyone looking to haul or tow anything. Then we wouldn't have to rely on that pesky plastic door sticker for our information.
"Loud" and "quite" are subjective, and if you're in the presence of others, your opinion does not count.
One rule of thumb I've come to agree on is that if you find yourself standing around the generator with others and the words "not THAT loud" are uttered by anyone, it's too loud. They're trying to be nice.
I've been around these cheap HF 2-cycle generators and they're not THAT loud. They also emit a cloud of blue smoke that lingers unless the wind is blowing.
If you're all by yourself, and none of this bothers you, go ahead. In a public setting be prepared for other people expressing their displeasure. Sometimes you'll find a nice fellow that will loan you power. Other times you may discover that the generator can be used as a suppository.
Does it take any longer with a dually? In particular, do you have to be more careful, and take more time clearing the rear wheel wells in loading/unloading.
I have a Ford F-350 dually, but won't be getting my new truck camper until this coming spring.
You've only got 1/2" of clearance on either side between the fender wells inside the bed whether you have an SRW or dually truck. As long as you have proper dually brackets on your front camper jacks, you will have several times that clearance outside the bed.
It should not take you any longer.
In my case I have about 2" on each side between the fender bulges and the front jacks. The rear tires "squeak" the jack feet as I back through. It's pretty tight but the bonus to that is if I clear the jacks I'm perfectly centered to load the camper.
No doubt. A contractor friend of mine has 2000lbs of tools and equipment stowed in the compartments of his Knapheide utility body on a 2500HD Chevy. He towed a small toy hauler with it for a while, but it was seriously dragging rear bumper. It was so bad that he gave up camping and sold the trailer.
Works great for his snow plowing business in the winter, though.