Remember that the weight recommendations are ALL UP, with everything you need packed and ready to travel!!!
If you get a trailer that weighs 6000lbs off the lot, it will weigh closer to 7500lbs by the time you load batteries, water, propane, food, clothing, toys, chairs, tools, blocking, bicycles, etc.. You may not think so but it always adds up...
Truthfully even at 6000lbs you are not going to like towing with that truck. It's 25 years old so those 195 horses it had when it was new, have certainly shrunk some over the years.
Axle ratio has a lot to do with towing performance. Can you read all the "G" codes off the sticker in the glove box and post them here?
IMHO, you should be looking more in the 4000-4500lb range for a trailer. The smaller you can go the happier you will be getting from A to B.
Ah yes, the same tired old guff, dragged out yet again.
Guys, when will you ever learn that stuff like "I wouldn't tow a skateboard with a 1500" just isn't productive and does not help to make your case?
Suffice it to say, while you might be able to make this rig work out on paper with the right 1500 truck, it probably won't be comfortable over the long haul.
People earlier were scoffing over some estimates that the trailer would be closer to GVWR than dry weight... Well you pretty much nailed that issue with the ~8600lb optioned dry weight of the trailer you're considering (bought?).
The 7620lb advertising literature dry weight was a LIE.
It WILL be close to 9900lbs by the time you're loaded and ready to camp.
clearance signs are not always correct. They are not always updated when roads are repaved or repaired.
That's where common sense should prevail. You should already be diverting if the clearance is even close.
If you want to do belly bars, go ahead, "knock yourself out." They'll work as good as anything if your design is solid. 2" x 1/4" wall tubing is more than adequate; the commercial bars don't look like they're more than 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall. Make sure your tiedowns allow for a little flex, though, as your bars won't, and may tend to pull the mounts out of the camper.
Your 1983 model probably had only THREE jacks, which were the type that mounted underneath the side overhang (aka wing) of the camper. It probably didn't help that that old camper's frame was fatigued from age/use, and possibly somewhat rotten from sitting outside.
AFAIK, every camper manufactured nowadays has FOUR jacks, which are mounted to the corners of the camper for a much stronger arrangement. For sure the Palominos have been this way since 2000.
A bit of advice for loading/unloading, if you are "jolting the camper" at all, you're doing it wrong. If you are not free and clear, you need to stop and reposition. Forcing it is a sure recipe for disaster.
Don't worry about the so-called Palomino "quality problem." The camper won't be perfect; no new camper is. You're paying a low price for the camper so you can't expect exotic materials and old-world craftsmanship. What's important is that the camper's weather tight, and its functions, function. Beyond that, take care of it and it will take care of you.
The intent of the original design was to use the shower head as the sink faucet as well. There should be a place to hang the shower head such that it directs its flow into the sink for that purpose.
What's important for installing an aftermarket faucet is the spacing between the two stems. AFAIK most of them are the same. Simply measure the distance from the center of one faucet handle to the other, or better yet, from one inlet to the other underneath, and compare that to the specifications of the new faucet you are looking at. Generally the inlets and handles line up with each other, and that faucet looks like the same generic faucet on my Palomino's shower.
Once you've found your new faucet, it is just like changing the faucet on your bathroom sink at home. Turn off the water, disconnect the lines, remove the nuts from underneath that hold the faucet to the sink, pull the old faucet, and reverse the steps to install the new one.
Bill, I don't disagree with the sentiment, but you don't have to preface it with a backhanded insult about the OP's choice of vehicle. It does not help the OP and can very well backfire on your desire to convince him that he needs more truck.
Just my humble opinion here, but the maximum weight you really can expect to be comfortable with on a 1500 truck over the long haul is about 7000lbs. Regardless of what the truck is supposedly rated for.
A trailer that starts at around 7000lbs will be pushing 8500 by the time you're loaded and ready to hit the road. Everything is heavier than you think it is.
Can it be done? Yes, if you have a 1500 truck with whatever the "maximum tow" package is for your brand. It should be adequate, and will certainly be safe, but more than likely you will be left wanting for something better. It'll be something in the back of your mind just picking away at you. Eventually you will decide to upgrade trucks, then you will be back here posting the obligatory "LAWDY LAWDY I HAVE SEEN THEE LIGHT! WHY DIDN'T I DO THIS SOONER?" post, where you expound on the virtues of the heavier duty truck and how it is a night and day difference from the old truck, and how you never knew what you were missing. You just have to go through the experience for yourself, as there is nothing we can say that will convince you otherwise.
If they acted like it was normal, then you didn't explain yourself well enough or they just didn't understand the extent of the damage.
As long as you haven't burned any bridges, I would try again. Play the game. Tell them that you tried jacking as suggested and that did not resolve the issue. Tell them that you think the camper might be damaged worse than you thought. Offer to send pictures.
Not sure if insurance will be of much help as the damage was self-inflicted.
The camper will fit a short bed or a long bed because it is designed to do so.
Long bed specific campers are designed so that the first 8' of the floor is supported by the truck. All the rest of the structure is based around that. By supporting only the first 6'6" of the floor, you are introducing forces that the camper may or may not be able to withstand over the long haul.
Short bed and short/long bed campers are designed so that they only have to be supported under the first 6'6" of floor.
As mentioned before, a short bed specific camper will either have a 6'6" floor, or it will have rear storage compartments that prevent the camper from being slid to the front of an 8' bed.
Tailgate openings and bed widths are the same between short and long bed trucks, so physically the campers will slide in either.
If the rear of the camper obscures your normal tail lights, you need functional stop and turn signals on the camper. The camper will have its own tail and backup lights, and a place to hang a license plate if this is the case. On yours they will need to be completely rewired, if you have them.
There are plenty of online references for the wiring of standard trailer plugs.
A small 12V battery or jumper pack will help you probe each wire to see what function it performs.
You've got two choices on the underpass thing:
1. Stay home.
2. Know how high you are, and PAY ATTENTION as you go down the road, looking for those orange/yellow diamond signs that indicate the height of the upcoming overpass when it is less than the DOT minimum. When you come across an overpass that you won't fit under, STOP before you pass under it. Use your GPS navigation to find an alternate route.
Same deal with the loading:
1. Stay home.
2. Practice and patience.
Well, it won't hurt a thing to do it regardless, and it's a whole lot less work than the timing chain. If it fixes it, then job done. Otherwise you have the peace of mind that the distributor won't leave you out on the side of the road next time.
When you attach to a 50A plug, that does not mean that suddenly 50A is being forced through your RV. Only the electricity that is demanded by appliances in your RV is going through your RV. For example, 10A for your air conditioner, 2A for your converter, another 1A to run the TV... 13A total, not 30A or 50A.
IMHO if you can plug into a 50A circuit, do it unless you know the campground has decent wiring. Often times campgrounds have less than adequate wiring and the heavier circuit will give you better power with less voltage drop.
I'm curious as to how far you dragged it across the floor. If my camper even twitches while I'm backing under or pulling away, I STOP, jump out, and thoroughly investigate everything to see if there's a problem.
Thks...I'm not real savvy with posting stuff but I wanted to post a small pic along with the signature stuff. I filled out the sig info but I'm not seeing it!! Gotta get things figured out.
You probably filled out your profile, not the signature.
The last updates from last year imply that the air cylinders alone are holding up the camper. I would not trust them even if you did something like add cutoff valves at each cylinder. There are other places the cylinders can leak, and there's nothing worse than waking up in the middle of the night with your camper's roof slowly settling down on top of you!
Admittedly I haven't watched the video so I don't know if you've addressed this particular issue but I highly encourage the use of a MECHANICAL prop to back up the cylinders when the roof is raised. Again, air can, and eventually will, leak.