For roadside emergency use, don't sweat it. Use the spare to get to the nearest tire shop, get the primary tire fixed, put it back on, and be on your way.
This whole deal of having to have left-hand threaded lug nuts on the left wheels or else they will come flying off is no longer relevant. Every car, truck, and trailer that rolls off an assembly line these days has all right-handed lug nuts. Clearly they figured out how to keep the lug nuts tight regardless of which way the wheel turns.
If it were such a chronic problem, the federal government would have mandated left-hand threaded lug nuts on the left side of the vehicle decades ago.
If it were the ABS, he would feel the pedal pulsating and vibrating under his foot. Surely he would have mentioned this.
You should NOT feel pulsating and vibrating under your foot when braking unless you are on ice or making a *panic* stop. If your truck does that all the time to the point where you feel it is normal enough to not mention, get your ABS fixed.
There are some simple tests to see what is causing the problem:
1. Turn the brake controller down to 0. Now try stopping with just the truck brakes. If it pulls, it's a problem with the truck.
2. Set the trailer brakes where you had them. Now try stopping with just the trailer brakes. If it pulls, it's a problem with the trailer.
If it turns out to be the trailer, jack it up and spin each wheel individually while a helper operates the brake controller. You will likely find that one or more brakes are not working.
The battery monitor lights serve only one purpose - for the salesman to say that you have a great monitor. Buy a digital voltmeter. $5 at HF and sometimes free will do nicely.
Baloney! We are dealing with a non-technical, newbie-level person here and you do not need to be confusing her with nonsense like this.
The battery monitor DOES show you the relative state of charge of the batteries. When it goes from 4 lights to 3 lights to 2 lights, that means the battery is DISCHARGING. This is proven out by the dimming lights and error on the fridge.
All a voltmeter will do is tell you what exact voltage is in the battery, which is neither useful nor relevant at this point. Clearly the converter is not charging the battery for whatever reason.
Even if your battery were bad, the converter would provide 12V power to your RV whenever you were plugged in, if it were working. The lights would not dim. The fridge would not go into error mode.
You can finish your trip with the external battery charger you have, but given your level of experience, I would recommend that you bring your RV to a trusted repair facility to have the converter checked out and fixed or replaced ASAP.
Can I start with a Honda or Yamaha 1000 now thru the fall and spring and find that I don't go out away from shore power a lot and rough it very often in the heat of summer. Use the small high end one to charge my battery, run my lights, run my heater fan, and not my ac and microwave? And then if I find that im liking this and going out often in the summer then parallel a 2000 Honda or Yamaha to it's 1000 that I already would own?
The price difference between the 1000 and 2000 Watt units is only $200.
How much sense does it make to spend $800 now, and another $1000 later, for a total of $1800, when you can spend $1000 now and be set for a good long time?
You can parallel a 1000 and a 2000 together, but it is not recommended or supported by any of the generator manufacturers.
Camping generators are something you want to "cheap out" on.
So much for my 02, Not to say this is a smart setup to drive down the road......but as noted, probably legal!
Not necessarily. Police have the discretion to cite an unsafe vehicle. If he's lurching, swerving, having problems keeping with the flow of traffic, having trouble getting it stopped. Any of these will get him pulled over and cited if caught by the right cop on the right day.
There's no predicting if there's even a cop around, or if the cop even notices, or if the cop takes pity on a guy just trying to get the job done. Some days you can get away with murder, and others you get a ticket for sneezing.
When are you going to the Chevy dealer to find out if all the trucks are crowned like this, or yours is defective?
If my brand new truck's bed were crowned and it was not part of the design, I would want it addressed, IMMEDIATELY. I would not just shrug my shoulders and pay the body shop to have it fixed.
They would be putting a whole new bed on the truck, or providing me with a new truck.
It's not just the Dodge. Trucks in general have been getting higher and higher, with deeper and deeper beds.
I never had a problem getting into my 2003 Silverado 1500, but if I don't put running boards on my new 2015 soon, I'm going to ruin the seat climbing in. The bleepin' thing sits 6" higher than the old truck.
Why the manufacturers think everybody likes/wants that huge jacked-up look, I don't know. Who wants to lift 80lb bags of concrete up 4' to get them into the bed of one of these monstrosities?
It's going to be a problem sooner or later with these giant McMansion 5th wheels that are already pushing 13' tall... If you've got to raise them another 6" to get one of these trucks underneath to tow 'em... There are going to be a lot of AC units knocked off.
The answer is ABSOLUTELY NO. Do not remove your WD hitch when towing in the rain. Not only are you creating a dangerous condition by making the front end too light, your receiver may not be rated to handle the trailer without the WD hitch. Typical receivers are rated for only 500lbs, sometimes 750lbs, without a WD hitch, and your trailer likely has over 1000lbs tongue weight.
Don't just go changing links willy-nilly. One chain link will have a dramatic effect on the amount of weight transferred.
If you're going to change the WD setup, do it right.
I suspect that the WD hitch is transferring too much weight off the rear wheels of the truck, like others have said..
Did you let the RV dealer set it up for you? If so, it's almost certainly completely wrong. You need to set it up yourself with the trailer loaded and ready to camp. All the RV dealer did was slap it on there as quick as they could.
There's a very detailed sticky thread at the top of this forum that details how to set up a WD hitch. Check your owner's manual to see what they recommend for setting up a WD hitch.
When you try to push the front end down too far with the WD hitch, you are just lifting the rear wheels of the truck. This may be why you are seeing "wiggle" in the rain.
This is NOT sway you are talking about here...
Sway is an uncontrolled oscillation of the trailer that gets worse unless corrective action is taken. If it stops by itself, it is definitely not sway. Sway is an inherently unstable condition. When the trailer corrects itself, it is demonstrating that it is inherently STABLE.
You are referring to "push-pull," or "bow wave effect" here.
Of course, the mitigation is better sway control, which then makes me look like I'm contradicting myself... The thing is, what you're trying to achieve is a more rigid connection between truck and trailer, at least in the yaw axis, so the whole thing moves as one. That's precisely what sway control does, to control sway. This is a happy side-effect.
You don't get nearly as pronounced of an effect from a 5th wheel or a Hensley/Propride hitch. This is because the pivot point is at, or is projected to, the center of the rear axle where the slight side force has no leverage on the truck. A conventional bumper hitch has 3-5' of leverage on the rear axle, making the effect much more noticeable.
After reading your post more thoroughly, your math is correct. I don't know why knowing what exact truck and/or trailer matters, though. Anybody can do simple math. It's not special "Dodge math" or something like that.
To get 6" clearance between the 20" high bed rails and the underside of the 5th wheel, you will need a total of 26" of height. Setting the top of the 5th wheel to 14" above the surface of the bed, combined with the pin being 12" below the overhang, will give you that 26".
That gives you a good starting point, but be prepared to do some trial and error work just in case. You may need to go up or down an inch or two to get things dialed in perfectly.
The only issue you may have is getting things level. That truck's suspension may not let you lower it enough, or if it does, the truck may end up sagging in the back with the trailer level. You still might have to flip the trailer axles, or if they already are, you may need to install some "hockey pucks" for a couple more inches of lift.
I see deully snow plows and sand trucks, and I have ask why is that if the duelly is so bad in snow and ice. I do not recall ever getting an answer.
You did get an answer, but you missed it.
The simple answer is: WEIGHT. A 10-wheeler loaded with salt and sand has excellent traction on ice due to the weight over the drive wheels. PLUS, it has a plow on the front that is pushing the snow out of the way. It is not trying to drive through the snow.
It's totally different from an empty pickup truck.
That said, don't go thinking that snow plows get such great traction on the snow and ice. When that salt runs out, they're in world of hurt if the route back to the salt barn hasn't been opened up yet. Believe it or not most snow plows are not all wheel drive. Most are normal 10-wheelers.
This is what confuses me about cassette toilets. You still need a dump station and the stinky slinky for the grey water, why not just dump the black at the same time / place? That seems to work well for me.
I don't need a dump station or stinky slinky for the grey water, either. My TC has no grey tank, just external drains.
Where it's allowed, I just let the gray water dump on the ground. I use eco-friendly shampoo and soap, and there's a lot worse things on the ground underneath my camper than a few dead skin cells and hair follicles. The grass is always very grateful for the extra drink it receives, especially the spot where my generator exhaust is blowing.
If there's any doubt, I catch my gray water in a blue 7-1/2 gallon can, take it home, and send it down the toilet, with all the requisite splashing, but at least it smells nice and the mess isn't so unpleasant to clean up...
You know how you can prove that theory, right? Go to a nearby Chevy or GMC dealer and look at the HD pickups on the lot. If the beds are flat, something is wrong with your truck. If the beds are crowned, something is wrong with the hitch.
My guess is the bed is intentionally crowned for the same reason OTR aluminum flatbed trailers are crowned.
Cassette toilets are not common in the US. They're more of a European thing, I think.
I've got one, but I've only used it once in the last 5 years. Dumping it was the killer for me. Sure, you can dump it in a regular toilet, but consider for a minute what you are pouring out of this thing. It is unpleasant. VERY unpleasant. No matter how much of that blue/orange/green/yellow fruity-enzyme juice you put in, it still has that wretched smell. No matter how hard careful you are, it SPLASHES too.
The Thetford 403C waste container is maybe a bit different from what you are describing. It is long with a handle and a pour spout. When you dump it in a regular toilet, flush the toilet first, then press the button on the waste container while the water is swirling down in the toilet. The contents will drain into the whirlpool, which will continue to swirl until the container is empty. No splash at all.
The smell is there, but I think black water tank dumping is no bed of roses either on the smell.
They look like this:
That is pretty much the same as what I have, though mine does not have a handle and wheels.
All I know is when I was done dumping and rinsing, my bathroom looked like a bomb went off, not to mention stinking like a sick person with a slight hint of orange, and I had to clean the bathroom again.
It doesn't matter what the rack weighs, the whole rack+bikes arrangement will still pull too much weight off the trailer tongue for a stable tow.
Put the bikes in the camper, or on the roof of the Kia, or leave them home. When you won't compromise on the tow vehicle, you have to compromise on what you bring with you and/or how you haul it.
If both were going off, then I'd say the battery voltage is low, converter may not be working.
If I read the posts correctly, they're both CO detectors. One is run off the house battery, the other off a regular 9V.
Both were going off.
Either it's an odd, unlikely coincidence that both the house battery and 9V died at the exact same time, or there's CO in the camper.
I am very curious what the OP finds.