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 > Your search for posts made by 'mr_andyj' found 364 matches.

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RE: Problems hitching and un hitching

your hitch jack might have just needed oil or grease. The little do-hickie thing in the trailer posi-lock coupler that locks to the ball can be pressed against the vehicle ball when the vehicle is pushing back on the trailer. This will cause the do-hickie to bind and not let go, then you have to jump on it. Grease can help. Collar locks are a lot easier to work with.
mr_andyj 07/31/21 02:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: Another noobie question.

nothing has changed in 15 years. People still drive running propane, some are scared to death to.
mr_andyj 07/31/21 02:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Any comments on the Curt Blue tooth wireless brake control?

There was a whole discussion on this just a few weeks ago. Do a search
mr_andyj 07/31/21 08:45am Towing
RE: Repo a Truck Camper???

It is the bank's TC (until you pay for it) and if they want to repo it then they can repo it. How is this even a question? This is such a stupid post, and Im being nice saying this. Dumb dumb dumb. VT is a bit far or I would come repo it for the bank. I would have no problems getting it loaded and to the impound lot.
mr_andyj 07/30/21 10:40am Truck Campers
RE: Off grid for first time, need some guidance !

No, driving around is a poor choice to charge a battery. For you really the only way is some solar. If you need that little power then a 100 watt panel might be all you need. They do work in the shade, and even cloudy rainy days, just not as good as full sun, but for what you describe 100w in the shade might be all u need to top off. $100 and you have something you can store away and use at home in the future if the power grid goes down as the power companies indicate might be a real thing, or CA residents will tell you is a real thing. IF you want to go 200 or 400w then all the better. Get the glass panel, not the flexible ones. Just put it on the ground pointing at the sun, even through the trees. Run big wires and keep it all as close to the batteries as you can. This is so simple. Solar will charge the batteries. No sound, no issues. Generators are not set up to charge batteries. They do output DC but it is minimal, you would need to plug a battery charger into the 120v outlet and charge the batts off that, or your camper should have the charger built in so you plug camper in, but as you say, a generator running is not an option at this CG.
mr_andyj 07/30/21 10:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Off grid for first time, need some guidance !

Since you will do this for one week and not again for the future... I would get 100watt solar panel and a MPPT charge controller. Dont use communist Amazon, eBay has everything, but do what you want. It will cost about $80 for a 100 watt panel shipped and maybe $30 or so for a controller. 200 watts is better, but maybe 100 is enough for just your one battery. If you want heavy power useage like a furnace or fans all night then consider adding another marine battery (better to add a true deep cycle 12 v battery, but youre just setting up for 1 week). If another battery then do go 200 watts solar. You can put the solar panel in the closet and you will always have it as emergency or the next camping trip. This will give you minimal use. No furnace, guessing in the summer you wont need a furnace? You can run the LED lights and the water pump just fine. The fridge will draw nill DC on propane. Careful running fans as they will draw down your battery at night, will be ok in the day time if on solar, but turn off later in the day so panels can send all juice to charge and not to run fans. Marine batteries are not for RV camping, they are for boats. You can get by with one if it is in good shape though. If it rains and your solar cant charge then you can just crank the car. Bigger wires going from your car alternator (or car battery) to your camper batteries is more ideal as the trailer wiring is so small it can take longer to charge than the car's systems is able to charge it. Jumper cables would do in a pinch. Other options like generators just get more and more expensive. Without more info thats about all i have to add.
mr_andyj 07/29/21 08:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Towing w/out weight dist -- am I being too conservative?

That was a long story to set up a question. You are asking if you should worry about towing across town once? Don't even bother with a WD hitch for a short tow.... How much does the truck sag when you drop the trailer on the hitch? If it rides level enough and the trailer tows well enough then it will get you there. The other issue... Installing a WD can be done by most people who are not handy with tools. Read directions, watch a video and go try. Not a lot lot it. Find a different mechanic. Any mechanic can do this, auto, lawnmower, bicycle... it is not hard stuff and any mechanic will be able to read directions and follow the steps to install...
mr_andyj 07/29/21 04:54pm Travel Trailers
RE: solar question

I can't live without it. 6 campers and 6 solar installs. I can probably go a day and a night without it then drive and recharge batteries, but otherwise I wont have enough battery. A lot depends on how much power you use. With normal use and boondocking you really can't go without a way to recharge the batteries. Solar will work in the shade parked under a thick canopy of east coast mountain trees, though the charge will take longer, I still get all the charge I need during the day...
mr_andyj 07/29/21 04:47pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar panels

Yes, the 10 watt is plenty to keep the batteries from going dead during storage. This little amount of solar may or may not even have a charge controller. I had 10 (or 15) on the roof pumping in a full 18 volts everytime the sun shown and never ever had battery issues during storage. I had a 5 watt dashboard panel to keep the starting battery topped off and both worked just fine. These trickle chargers had very thin wires from panel to battery though so I suspect yours does too. So, no, the answer is, the 10 watt panel does nothing to help you get going on useable camping solar panels. 100 watts would keep batts topped off and let you use lights and fans at night. You really do need 200 watts to truly be self-sufficient out there boondocking. At about 70-80 cents per watt these days off eBay I strongly suggest going 200-350 watts since you are doing all the work, something you might end up with when all is saidanddone anyway. One 350 watt panel, or two 100 (or 150) watt panels. You can get two panels and run in series to double your voltage which is more efficient over the wire, just be sure the charge controller can handle the voltage. 18 volts is typical for a "12 volt" panel. So double that and 37 volts would be if you run them in series. Most controllers can handle either automatically. MPPT is most peoples preferred charge controller. Get the right amperage.
mr_andyj 07/29/21 04:43pm Tech Issues
RE: To buy a generator or not...

Why are we discussing CG generator allowed hours? OP, I still see your best option is do nothing. You only want to run gen for a few hours, you rarely use gen. Propane gens will not have issues with gasoline corrupting the carb because you only run it 20 hours over ten years, s that is a huge plus for you. You will have carb issues if you get a gasoline one. A TC is so small inside that your AC compressor might run 30 seconds then cycle off for 5-10 minutes, so re-do that calculation of how long gen will run off a tank. 30 secs vs 5 mins is a 10:1 ratio. SO over 10 hours your compressor will run 1 hours (yes, this will vary, but just deal with it until OP gives up exact numbers). It could run 2 mins for every 5, a 5:2 ratio, do math on that so you have a range. With just the fan on the AC running you will not be pulling many amps at all and the gen is not using a lot of propane as if under a load. For my TC i put on a smaller 9200 roof AC unit because it would run off of a small 2200i generator. Quiet, light and easy to carry, plus the inverter gen will idle down when there is no big load. Consider your camping altitude as the small gens might not have enough power at high elevations to run even small ACs. Going solar? No, thats just crazy for what you describe as your situation. That would be great for doing a LOT of camping, but just for a few trips a year, use what you got! Spend money elsewhere where it has biger impact on your enjoyment.
mr_andyj 07/28/21 10:54am Truck Campers
RE: 8 people killed in Utah sand storm

I saw it was a cnn link and closed the window immediately... In general, when I get into this type of situation, snow in my case, I slow and drive no faster than I can see and keep rolling until I come to a stopped car in front of me, then I stop. This gives trucks or other crazy car drivers behind me the max distance to themselves stop before hitting me. Rolling another 30-50 or 100 feet further up the road might just be all the driver behind me needs to stop before slamming into me. Defensive driving! I will pull off the road if possible if I am stopping, but with no visibility the rear driver can drift on to the shoulder, so this only gives me a slight increase in chances. In a white-out situation as this sand storm you do the best you can.... It is good to think about your options before you get into that situation and are in a panic.
mr_andyj 07/27/21 10:13am General RVing Issues
RE: To buy a generator or not...

If with AC on noise n vibration are not an issue, then without question USE WHAT YOU HAVE. Carry lots of propane tanks. They are going to take up about double the space of gasoline tanks, but will not spill or smell either. Is it worth $1,000 or so to take extra propane? You only need it 2 hours per day then that will not be a huge use of propane anyway, unlike running it all night. Buy a propane auto switchover hose/pigtail that lets you run the onboard tank plus an aux tank from the ground so you don't run out and have to run out and swap. Also, for future, is your propane gen able to be converted to gasoline? If that suits your needs better then consider it. It is mostly all in the carb and should not be too complex to switch.
mr_andyj 07/27/21 09:58am Truck Campers
RE: 12v to 6v review?

I will ask the autozone clerk next time if they have virgin lead batteries and ask about if the separators are 30 or 80 cent. Im sure that will help get me the right battery. Just the other day it was 155 in the shade, on the ground, and I was wondering if my AC would cool the trailer running off solar as I wanted to eat an ice cream cone slowly without it dripping down my hand. My theromatic ignitifier gave a reading of 0.330 and we all laughed. The other guy said his was 0.331 and I almost lost it rolling on the floor. If we magnetize the ignitifire 3% then re-test it gets even crazier. I suggested a 30 cent separator also, but everyone else thought it was crazy.
mr_andyj 07/27/21 09:50am Tech Issues
RE: 12v to 6v review?

Mexicowanderer, im not sure you are writing whet you mean and getting your point across. Hot under the sun? I dont think anyone here, I hope not, would ever consider using an automotive battery, this is pure nonsense, that has not even been discussed in this thread that I recall. I think the general consensus is that 6 volt batteries are better for RV use simply because they have thicker plates. If the 12s had thicker plates then we would not be discussing. Most will buy batteries at an automotive shop or walmark where they are easy to get and easy to warranty and easy to find exact replacements for, so we are mostly discussing flooded lead acid batteries. The differences being the 12s are Marine and the 6s are Golf cart; compromise batteries vs a true deep cycle batt. the 12s have to be paired with same age/same voltage SOC while the 6s don't care. Yes, for large, high current, high amp draws the automotive battery will deliver, once or twice, the Marine batt will do pretty good as it is able to surge more amps to high draw appliances, but not take as many discharge/recharge cycles at a true deep cycle batt, BUT overall for most RVers the true deep cycle (the 6s) will give the longest life and the best preformance for most RV needs.
mr_andyj 07/26/21 06:48pm Tech Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

It is plugged in now so dont want to take it apart just yet, but best I remember is it did look factory, not just wires going in odd places, the neutral looked like it was factory made to be grounded where it was, but I cant say for sure that it was not just grounded to the ground bar. Nonetheless, would it be wise to unground it? That would mean the neutral is only connected to the neutral of the extension cord, not the ground of the panel that connects to the ground of the extension cord. I can do electrical just fine, but am not an electrician that knows the codes.
mr_andyj 07/26/21 01:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ancient Dometic absorption cooler

thanks, I could probably rig this to work. Still looking for original parts n hoping they used off-the-shelf parts.
mr_andyj 07/26/21 12:56pm Tech Issues
Ancient Dometic absorption cooler

Anyone have one of these? https://ewr1.vultrobjects.com/photouploads/MS0T.jpg https://ewr1.vultrobjects.com/photouploads/MS0W.jpg I contacted Dometic, but they don't want to help, too old. I am missing the propane regulator and looking for the best part to use to hook up propane. It uses a 1lb bottle, so something small and compact is best. Seems that they use a one-stage regulator from pics I see... The cooler works perfect on electric, but I have never been able to fire it up on gas. I want to sell it, but need to get it working properly first. https://photouploads.com/image/MS0T https://ewr1.vultrobjects.com/photouploads/MS0T.jpg https://ewr1.vultrobjects.com/photouploads/MS0W.jpg
mr_andyj 07/26/21 10:26am Tech Issues
RE: jack knife sofa

I would take it to an upholstery shop and have them re-do the cushions and fabric. Likely the steel jack knife system is fine and u just have worn out fabric. Then it bolts back in exactly where it came out. I sold a jacknife for $300 to a guy that planned to re upholstery it, fabric was perfect. The couch has value even as a bare metal frame.
mr_andyj 07/26/21 10:18am General RVing Issues
RE: RV Hot Skin (Exterior electrification)

I have a panel out of a 1971 camper. The neutral is grounded at the panel. The neutral is grounded, as many are saying yet others somehow want to disagree with such facts... What some here are saying is that this code has changed and now the neutral is not supposed to be grounded at the panel? Should the neutral be un-grounded and let the neutral ground effect take place at the house panel, not the caper panel? Would this help eliminate some possible issues with reverse hot skin?
mr_andyj 07/26/21 10:14am General RVing Issues
RE: Bent WD snap up bracket on dual cam setup.

Well, on the other hand... The bracket is the weak link on your system and cheapest to replace, so do you want the bracket to be stronger than the trailer frame, or the hitch cradle, or the chains ??? As far as the dent the bolt put in your trailer frame I would not be too concerned about that, having not seen it of course. Steel is able to take one bend and still retain strength. I doubt this dent will ever matter, but as far as putting the new bracket where the dent is may or may not matter, as long as it is able to tighten and stay in place then you are good. Of course when you turn one chain/spring is tight and the other is loose. However, if when level and straight one is still loose and you are not able to remedy with moving chain links up or down then you can get a bolt-on chain link (the name escapes me, but is the oval links you might attach the safety chains to the receiver hitch with) that is 1 1/2 times longer than the chain link on your WD bars. This will give you ability to fine tune the tension so instead of making 1 link adjustments you can make half-link adjustments. Simply link chain link #3 to link #5, skipping 4 and this will add a half link length to the system. Do this ONLY on one side. This might be enough to even out the tension on the bars. Make sure the link you are adding in is strong enough, so just get a big fat one. You can test the tension by hooking it up one or two links looser so you can feel with hand and see if the two are equal tension, as under full load it will be so tight you cannot tell. Or lift one bar up, measure the height gain. lower, lift the other side up, measure, compare... The way to avoid the issue is to drive across those driveway dips at an angle such that you are not making such a sharp up/down bend between the angle of truck and trailer. OR take WD bars off. What is happening is that when you make such an angle that the bars are pulling the tongue up such that the rear wheels of the truck are getting unweighted (headed to the truck rear wheels coming off the ground) and the weight is transferred across the bars to the trailer frame (and the hitch on the truck side) and all that weight is on the trailer frame at the point the bracket is bolted on. Lots of stress to the trailer frame. I was always afraid mine would bend the trailer frame at the bracket so I removed the bars when I got to washed-out dirt roads. For me, I finally gave up and put on air bags as the tongue weight was still within my limits. I like the bags way more. Perhaps a combo of air bags and WD bars would work for you (or any truck suspension stiffening system u choose). Stiffer truck springs and a lesser tensioned WD bars so you do not need to rely so much on the bars. This would give you more wiggle room before the bars bent or broke something. Used WDH for sale....
mr_andyj 07/26/21 09:59am Towing
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