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 > Your search for posts made by 'msturtz' found 63 matches.

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RE: 34/35' diesel pusher question. Newbie

36' DP 275 HP Cummins and 6 speed Allison with a Freightliner chassis. No stability issues towing. A little underpowered but not an issue. LP generator with its own tank and will run everything in the MH. Diesel generator would be easier but LP was not a deal breaker and it is quieter than any of the gas or diesel generators in camp. Most DP that size will have a 5,000 lb. hitch so plan on reinforcing it. I choose to stay at the 36' length so I could stay under the 65' total length with trailer or toad. Lots of good rigs available in your price range. Our 33.3 34.5' has a 10K hitch but as a practical matter, we are restricted due to GCWR to less than that.
msturtz 05/23/19 04:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 34/35' diesel pusher question. Newbie

We have a 33.3 DP. It’s actually 34.5’ long. It is on a Freightliner SC-R straight rail 28,000 chassis. It has a 300HP 660 lb ft of torque. It was de-rated to 26,000 pounds GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) and 30,000 pounds GCWR (Gross combined weight rating) due to the Allison MH2100 transmission. I would never purchase a DP with an LP generator. They use way too much fuel for what you get plus the QD series Onan generators use inverter technology to dramatically reduce the noise and fuel consumption. The LP generators run at 3600 rpm and the QD versions run at 1800 rpm or lower. Lower rpm means less noise and lower fuel use.
msturtz 05/22/19 08:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Power Problem

All the stuff that you listed as working are 120v appliances. This leads me to believe it is in the 12 V side. Start at the battery and check the voltage. Usually there will be a large fuse before the inverter and the rest of the house wiring. If there’s power past that then look for the battery disconnect relay. Keep checking until you find where the power is no longer passing. Another quick thing you can do is press the emergency start switch up in the dashboard. Make sure everything is off except a few lights. Depending on where that relay is wired may tell you where the problem is.
msturtz 05/16/19 08:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Power Problem

While I not directly familiar with your specific coach I do have some suggestions. Some coaches have a device that bridges (connects) the house and chassis battery banks if charge voltage is present on either side. Some coaches have different systems that may only connect on side or the other. One symptom of a failure is the house battery bank discharging with the engine running. To test this theory start the engine and let it run for at least 5 minutes. Check the battery voltage at the battery on both side. There should be less than 0.2 VDC difference between the two banks.
msturtz 05/15/19 10:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Be wary of National General Insurance

doxiemom11 and ItsyRV, one can only hope your insurance treats you as you would treat others. The ramifications of the OPer's claim sound very excessive to me. Now that they've screwed him over, it will take years for him to get out of the high risk category they put him in making it extremely hard to find another company to cover his vehicles. I understand greed rules today but that doesn't make it right. Our failed for profit system of metering out health care is another example of insurers run wild. Um, I would not want the alternative of dying waiting for care like happened to my father in law. He died of a very treatable illness that in the US would have been routine however under the socialized system of his country he didn't make the cut for the care rationing. He never got the surgery in time and died waiting. Of course, we could have paid the bribes to move him up on the list but there were no guarantees they would actually honor that either. Sorry, granting all power to the all-powerful state and government bureaucrats to decide who does and does not get care is not a solution. Insurance is about transferring risk nothing more nothing less. The solution to an insurance company treating me poorly is more competition and more consumer choice along with greater transparency. If an insurance company routinely treats its customers poorly they will lose business and eventually go out of business. That is if the government doesn't prop them up by erecting major barriers to entry of new competition (for those who are interested the term is "rent seeking" when a business asks the government to impede the entry of competitors by increasing regulation or taxes or by asking for special treatment). We need more competition in the insurance business and ultimately that will make for more happier customers.
msturtz 05/03/19 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Be wary of National General Insurance

You may wish to consider investing in a dash cam. We did because a vehicle in front of us lost a part of their roof rack and it hit our motorhome at toad. We had to pay the entire deductible because the driver insisted that nothing came off of their car. It is sad that we have to have a video camera running all the time but it has saved my bacon already! I now have dash cams in all of my vehicles. BTW it is unfortunately sometimes better to actually hit a vehicle that violates the law such as by veering into your lane rather than avoid them which is the instinctive thing to do. It sounds idiocy but you get no credit for avoiding a more severe accident if you actually do get into an accident. Commercial truck drivers know this and will almost always hit an offending vehicle just to have it documented to protect their license.
msturtz 05/02/19 01:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Surge Protector

I have used Progressive Dynamics and Surge Guard. I have had great luck with both. I only recommend the EMS versions which have the active monitoring and will disconnect at any time when detecting most power problems: low voltage, high voltage, open ground, open or floating neutral and so on. The basic surge only versions only protect against power surges.
msturtz 04/13/19 10:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Frame issue

It is a common problem to overload a Motorhome by pulling a too heavy a trailer. The tow rating is the lesser of the GCWR - actual gross weight of the motorhome or the hitch rating whatever is less. For example if you have a hitch rated at 10k, a GCWR of 30k an actual coach weight of 26k you can only tow a trailer of 4K assuming you reduce the coach weight by 400# to account for the tongue weight. The point is that you cannot exceed any ratings. I have seen people towing double stacker trailers behind motorhomes all the time. However it can cause the frame to break if subjected to an abnormal stress such as a bump or pothole.
msturtz 03/31/19 12:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

. . . the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. Add to the fact that the class A has a short 3” front overhang and a short 3’ rear overhang. . . Something doesn't compute. A 413" long motorhome on a 208" wheelbase has to have 205" (17+ feet) of overhang somewhere. If it has 3" on the front and 36" on the rear, where'd the other 166" (13+ feet) go? Maybe I'm just reading things wrong. Wouldn't be the first time. :) It's a bit more complicated than that. Our DP has about a 48" front overhang when measured to the centerline of the axle but the salesperson measured it from the front of the tire. So, 208" + 48" + 2x 36" (22.5" wheels are actually larger than 3') is about 328" back. This leaves about 86" or 7' of rear overhang compared to the over 12' of rear overhang on our Class C. It depends on where you measure from and to however in every case a DP is going to have a relatively shorter rear overhang as a percentage for a given length than a Class C. We had a Class C rig with an OEM listed length of 31' and an actual length of 33.5' and a 45 degree wheel cut compared with our Class A DP which has only a 208" wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut a much larger (compared to the C) front overhang and a much smaller rear overhang again compared to the C.
msturtz 03/12/19 03:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

We have had a class C & and now a short class A DP. Our 31’ 218” class C was actually about 33.5’ our 33’ Class A is actually 34.5’. However, because our Class C had a 218” wheelbase and a 45-degree wheel cut and the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55-degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. I'm genuinely confused here: how does your longer class A have a shorter wheelbase, a shorter front overhang, and a shorter rear overhang than the class C? Where are they hiding the extra length? :h I know it sounds a bit strange but let me try to explain it this way. Most OEMs don't count the "chassis" part of cutaway chassis cabs such as the E450 in the listed model length. Our Class C rig was listed as a 31' rig but was actually 33.5' (402") bumper to bumper. Our Class C had essentially a 0" front overhang due to being on the E450 chassis. So, this means all of the unit's length is aft of the front bumper. With a 218" wheelbase and 16" tires you are 402" - 218" you have 184" - 32" (two tires) or 12.66' left of rig aft of the rear tires. Note the pivot point is at the centerline of the axle not the rear of the back tire so tail swing is a big issue. Now for our DP here is how the numbers work. Coach is listed as a 33.3' unit but is actually 34.5' or 414". On our DP the front axle is set back about 48" (4') from the front of the rig, add the 208" wheelbase to the 48" front overhang plus the large 22.5 tires at another 36" each for a total of 72 which leaves a rear overhang of 86" or 7.16'. All of this said the Class C units essentially have no front overhang so all of that length is pushed to the aft. Even if you subtract out the tire width from the above calculations in both cases you still end up with a relatively much longer rear overhang in Class C rig. Another common misunderstanding about Class C vs Class A rigs is the width. Almost all standard Class C rigs are 102" wide or 8.6' at the house portion which is the exact same measurement for a Class A rig. The difference in perception has to do with the cab. The cabin a standard E450 is much narrower than the house causing the perception that the rig is narrower when in reality it isn't.
msturtz 03/12/19 03:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water leak from fresh water tank

It’s probably the low point drain for the tank. There should be a valve somewhere between the tank and that pipe that may be partly open or leaking. You should not have to remove any panels to see the valve although you likely will need to look hard.
msturtz 03/12/19 02:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling characteristics of MH.s

We have had a class C & and now a short class A DP. Our 31’ 218” class C was actually about 33.5’ our 33’ Class A is actually 34.5’. However because the Class C had a 218” wheelbase and a 45 degree wheel cut and the Class A has a 208” wheelbase and a 55 degree wheel cut the Class A is much more maneuverable. Add to the fact that the class A has a short 3” front overhang and a short 3’ rear overhang vs. the class C with a massive rear overhang of about 11’. The Class C’s poor handling, road manners, harsh ride, squerilly steering, very loud noise and heat from the engine right next to us added to the poor experience. A lot was done to the Class C to correct the deficiencies, airbags, trackbars, steering stabilizers, Hush mat in the entire front cabin including doghouse and so on, ultimately the problems weren’t solvable. The limited water, battery and weight carrying capacity combined with the other things made it impossible to meet our needs. Our Class A DP was only marginally more expensive than the Class C but vastly quieter and more usable in every way.
msturtz 03/12/19 02:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing heat pump to heat strip

THe only way I'd even consider switching a heat pump for heat to heat strips. For one thing... A/C's on RV's tend to be roof mount. I want A/C's on the roof as that is the hottest part of the RV.. but for heat I want it down near the floor. Heat pumps DO have advantages that make 'em worth it. but if I'm going to use resistive heat (Electric heat strips) I want 'em near the floor where my space heaters sit... NOTE: most RV's are not wired to support space heaters. I added heavy duty wiring to mine just for that 12ga wire feeding 15/20 amp outltes wire bent around a tightened screw.. NOT the uni-box **** the factory put in. Absolutely correct! RV wiring is substandard at best. Small wire size, uni-box outlets, undersized main panels, and so on. Not fun.
msturtz 02/01/19 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing heat pump to heat strip

The problem with heat strips is they are very low power. Typically they are about 500 watts which is only enough to get the chill out of the air. The reason for this is usually the circuit serving the AC unit is a 15 AMP circuit. Using Ohm's law it is easy to calculate the amount of energy you can get out of a given circuit. A 120VAC 15 Amp circuit can at max support 1800 watts. This is the theoretical limit. This is limited by other things running on the same circuit as well as wire sizing etc. With a "heat strip" on an AC unit you would need a very undersized heat strip because you also have a blower running on the same circuit. This means you could have up to about 1000 watts of resistance heat available assuming the blower motor doesn’t take more than about 500 – 700 watts. While it is true that heat pumps become less efficient under 40 F the real difference is this. A resistance heater (heat strip) can produce about 3412 BTU where a heat pump can produce about 15,000 BTU. Because the heat pump starts at such a high BTU value for the amount of energy input it would need to be very cold before resistance heat would be superior. Final note heat pumps can stop working at or near freezing due to icing on the coils. That is expected and if detected can cause the compressor to shut down. This is usually an issue in high humidity situations. Bottom line I would never recommend a heat strip in lieu of a heat pump. A heat pump is always vastly superior in almost every situation. And even if you needed the heat it would be a rare situation where a heat strip would produce enough heat to keep a coach warm enough in less than 40F temperatures.
msturtz 01/31/19 09:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing heat pump to heat strip

Heat pumps move heat (more efficient) heat strips create heat by electrical resistance (less efficient - more expensive)
msturtz 01/31/19 07:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: condensation or leak?

If you have clearance lights in that area you may want to check them. The silicone that is usually used is not very good. I redid all of mine with Dicor and eternabond.
msturtz 12/22/18 10:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation/Temp Control

So please explain why the RV furnace has a hot exhaust vent on the outside. Some RV furnaces also has an antisale switch to keep the furnace from coming on if an obstruction does not allow the combustion gasses from exhausting. I had a similar issue once in our first class A. A literal waterfall was running down my windshield. A by-product of burning LP is water. So if you have an LP furnace you are not only creating condensation by differing temperatures, you are pumping H20 into the air via your furnace. Showers and cooking exacerbate the issue. The best way I have found to combat this is to open your roof vents and run the vent fans. I know it seems like you will be pulling your heated air out of the coach - and you are - but you will also be pulling out the moisture. A dehumidifier is always helpful as well. You are technically correct burning propane does create a lot of water vapor, however per code RV furnaces must have an external air intake and external exhaust for combustion. All you get inside the coach is hot dry air. This is not true with small portable heaters. So no running your RV furnace will not put water vapor into the air. A lot of folks disagree; http://www.irv2.com/forums/f93/engineering-help-water-from-propane-104216.html The confusion is coming from the use of ventless heaters. Installed propane heaters are prohibited from venting exhaust gas (including water vapor) inside the coach. I am not going to get into a pi$$ing match with you over it. If you tell me that RV furnaces are designed to mitigate water vapor induction into the coach when it's well known that burning lp generates 1-2 gals of water per gal of LP - sorry but that's a hard sell. I tend to believe that your LP furnace - vented or not - pumps a good amount of water vapor into the RV. It's certainly not going through any sophisticated air scrubber as you can smell the additives in the LP when it burns. And if you can smell that, it's a good bet you are getting exhaust gasses - not just the heat. LP furnaces are not complicated and the vents are passive. Moving on. Please explain how my humidity monitor would spike in my coach prepping for a trip in the winter running only the LP furnace and no one was in the coach. Not just condensation, the ambient humidity. Outside humidity 40%, coach almost 70%. The humidity monitor may be incorrectly reading the humidity near the wall due to the lower ambient temperature, there is also an effect where building materials, clothes, and other porous materials will give off stored humidity as the humidity in the room drops. There is another possibility that could be that your furnace is defective and has a leaking heat exchanger which would be extremely important to correct immediately due to the issue of carbon monoxide poisoning. A properly designed, functioning and installed furnace cannot leak ANY exhaust gas into a coach.
msturtz 11/14/18 12:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation/Temp Control

I had a similar issue once in our first class A. A literal waterfall was running down my windshield. A by-product of burning LP is water. So if you have an LP furnace you are not only creating condensation by differing temperatures, you are pumping H20 into the air via your furnace. Showers and cooking exacerbate the issue. The best way I have found to combat this is to open your roof vents and run the vent fans. I know it seems like you will be pulling your heated air out of the coach - and you are - but you will also be pulling out the moisture. A dehumidifier is always helpful as well. You are technically correct burning propane does create a lot of water vapor, however per code RV furnaces must have an external air intake and external exhaust for combustion. All you get inside the coach is hot dry air. This is not true with small portable heaters. So no running your RV furnace will not put water vapor into the air. A lot of folks disagree; http://www.irv2.com/forums/f93/engineering-help-water-from-propane-104216.html The confusion is coming from the use of ventless heaters. Installed propane heaters are prohibited from venting exhaust gas (including water vapor) inside the coach. I am not going to get into a pi$$ing match with you over it. If you tell me that RV furnaces are designed to mitigate water vapor induction into the coach when it's well known that burning lp generates 1-2 gals of water per gal of LP - sorry but that's a hard sell. I tend to believe that your LP furnace - vented or not - pumps a good amount of water vapor into the RV. It's certainly not going through any sophisticated air scrubber as you can smell the additives in the LP when it burns. And if you can smell that, it's a good bet you are getting exhaust gasses - not just the heat. LP furnaces are not complicated and the vents are passive. Moving on. This is not a matter of opinion or conjecture. It is a matter of code requirements. Per American National Standards Institute, Inc., and the institute's rules applicable to Low Voltage Systems in Conversion and Recreational Vehicles and Uniform Plan Approval for Recreational Vehicles, ANSI/RVIA 12V Low Voltage Systems, current edition, and ANSI/RVIA UPA-1 Standard on Uniform Plan Approval for Recreational Vehicles, current edition. These have been adopted by RVIA for any vehicle with the RVIA seal must comply and most states require state level approval for sale in that state. These codes REQUIRE the following: All fuel-burning appliances, except ranges, ovens, illuminating appliances, … shall be designed and installed to provide for the complete separation of the combustion systems from the interior atmosphere of the Recreational . Combustion air inlets and flue gas outlets shall be listed as components of the appliance. The required separation shall be permitted to be obtained by: 1) The installation of direct-vent systems (sealed combustion) appliances, or 2) The installation of appliances within enclosures so as to separate the appliance combustion system and venting system from the interior atmosphere. There shall not be any door, removable access panel or other opening into the enclosure from the inside of the Recreational any opening for ducts, piping, wiring, etc. shall be sealed..” Almost every state has adopted ANSI, NFPA, and or RVIA code requirements. All larger RV manufacturers install compliant LP heaters and every RV manufacturer that uses the RVIA seal must comply. With a sealed combustion chamber or sealed compartment it is absolutely physically impossible to introduce water vapor into the inside of the coach. There is a heat exchanger (typically air to air) that allows the hot exhaust gas to heat the interior air. The reason for these regulations is to prevent death by carbon monoxide poisoning due to a malfunctioning heating appliance. The other reason is due to oxygen depletion in the interior air of a RV. In regular homes there is enough air leakage to allow combustion air to be drawn from inside the home without the risk of oxygen depletion however, in a small space such as a RV it is very possible to deplete enough oxygen to create health problems. This is why I am so opposed to the use of portable propane heaters inside of RVs they carry the risk of carbon monoxide poising and oxygen depletion with the added headache of massive quantities of water vapor which is a natural byproduct of burning propane. So, you are correct in the statement that burning propane does create a large quantity of water vapor it’s just vented outside.
msturtz 11/14/18 12:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation/Temp Control

I had a similar issue once in our first class A. A literal waterfall was running down my windshield. A by-product of burning LP is water. So if you have an LP furnace you are not only creating condensation by differing temperatures, you are pumping H20 into the air via your furnace. Showers and cooking exacerbate the issue. The best way I have found to combat this is to open your roof vents and run the vent fans. I know it seems like you will be pulling your heated air out of the coach - and you are - but you will also be pulling out the moisture. A dehumidifier is always helpful as well. You are technically correct burning propane does create a lot of water vapor, however per code RV furnaces must have an external air intake and external exhaust for combustion. All you get inside the coach is hot dry air. This is not true with small portable heaters. So no running your RV furnace will not put water vapor into the air. A lot of folks disagree; http://www.irv2.com/forums/f93/engineering-help-water-from-propane-104216.html The confusion is coming from the use of ventless heaters. Installed propane heaters are prohibited from venting exhaust gas (including water vapor) inside the coach.
msturtz 11/14/18 09:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Condensation/Temp Control

I had a similar issue once in our first class A. A literal waterfall was running down my windshield. A by-product of burning LP is water. So if you have an LP furnace you are not only creating condensation by differing temperatures, you are pumping H20 into the air via your furnace. Showers and cooking exacerbate the issue. The best way I have found to combat this is to open your roof vents and run the vent fans. I know it seems like you will be pulling your heated air out of the coach - and you are - but you will also be pulling out the moisture. A dehumidifier is always helpful as well. You are technically correct burning propane does create a lot of water vapor, however per code RV furnaces must have an external air intake and external exhaust for combustion. All you get inside the coach is hot dry air. This is not true with small portable heaters. So no running your RV furnace will not put water vapor into the air. You can tell this by looking at the outside vent for the furnace it is a dual tube vent combustion air is drawn in on the outside of the vent and the exhaust gases are vented on the inside tube. This has the benefit of keeping the outside of the vent cooler than it would be.
msturtz 11/14/18 09:41am Class A Motorhomes
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