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 > Your search for posts made by 'myredracer' found 539 matches.

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RE: Rewiring Trailer Brakes - How to Allow for Axle Movement?

Here's what I did recently. I ran a #12 ga. brake cable along one side of the frame and tie-wrapped it to the propane pipe. I ran the new brake cable across each axle tube and secured it with tie-wraps every 6". The cable is on the trailing side of the axles and not likely to be hit by road debris. I soldered all the splices, used shrink wrap and then electrical tape over that for more physical protection. The splices are well-secured to the U-bolts with tie-wraps. The brake wiring installed by the axle manufacturer is tiny #18 ga. (in our TT anyway) and the holes into the axle tubes are waaay too small to get a #12 ga. brake cable into. The alternative is to run new cable above the coroplast but that's a heck of a lot of work for little gain, plus the wiring will be a bit longer. I bright the brake cable up from the backing plates and forward about 1.5' to 2' forward and tie-wrapped it to the propane pipe. This allows for a lot more vertical movement than will ever occur under normal road travel or jacking the frame up to re & re a wheel. I have to say the improvement in braking with the new #12 wiring is absolutely amazing. The original splices by the TT manufacturer were really sh!tty - not only added to a poor connection but there was the possibility of the splices pulling apart. See the photo below for one example. The crimp connectors are designed/approved for one wire only in each end and note how only a few strands were pushed into one end. ALL of the other splices were equally bad. https://i.imgur.com/Idi1UX2m.jpg width=300https://i.imgur.com/C3HyfmLm.jpg width=300https://i.imgur.com/8A254efm.jpg width=300
myredracer 08/25/19 11:52am Tech Issues
RE: Why the large discrepancy in rv antifreeze prices?

https://www.amazon.com/PEAK-Marine-Antifreeze-50%C2%B0F-Guaranteed/dp/B07MBQ5YX3 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-RV-Marine-Antifreeze/17179674 The stuff from Amazon costs a lot more because there's shipping, packaging & handling costs buried in the "free shipping" price. If anyone thinks there really is "free" shipping in this world, then pigs really can fly... :R If you go to the right places, you can get the PG AF at a minimal cost above the retail store pricing on the cheapo ethanol-based version. Most people don't understand there's two types of AF and buy based on sticker price. I get the PG type at a nearby independent RV repair/parts shop at a cost slightly above retail stores or RV dealers that sell the ethanol-based version. The propylene glycol antifreeze is the good stuff and a much better choice. Won't evaporate and dry out in toilet or p-traps, will help lubricate seals, won't taint plumbing lines, is non-toxic and is non-flammable. If you look at a jug of it in a store, read the label for the contents. Sometimes it's hard to find or the print is small and hard to read. FWIW, I always blow our lines out when winterizing. Easy to do and a lot less AF is needed.
myredracer 08/25/19 10:39am Tech Issues
RE: Reese Dual Cam HP frame brackets

Try phoning Reese again. When I had our issue with the cam arm brackets they sent me new ones, no questions asked and no need to send them photos. They've had manufacturing issues with these in the past and it's a known problem. Below is a photo I what ours looked like at first. Unacceptable. Another option would be to take them to a welding shop, get them to heat up the metal with a torch and bend it to 90 degrees. But if the bottom isn't flat, it's not going to be a good solution. First photo shows the brackets I originally received when I bought the DC package and the replacements sent by Reese. Big difference! I don't understand how Reese could have let this stuff get out into the marketplace. Poor QC somewhere... If you have the 17K setup and have a TW upwards of about 1200 lbs, I would NOT use Reese's forming screws. The A-frame tubing is quite thin and you won't get enough thread engaged which will end up loosening. The best solution IMO is to through-bolt through the A-frame tubing. I cut away the end cover on the A-frame tubing. Made up a plate with nuts welded on one side. Welded a bolt to end of the plate. Welded a nut to the end of a piece of EMT tubing (after removing the plating). Pushed the EMT into the A-frame tubing and bolted it on with new bolts along with some loctite and tightened to 75 ft-lbs (IIRC). Plug-welded the plate onto the A-frame tubing, sanded down the welds and touched up with some paint. Made some shims to match the radius between the bracket and A-frame tubing. Just took some 3/16" flat stock steel and ground the radius by hand with an angle grinder. End result is a very tight fit between brackets and A-frame. I did this 5 years ago and it has been good ever since. Once you take the time to deal with the idiosyncrasies of the Reese DC, it's a truly excellent WDH. I love ours and how it performs. https://i.imgur.com/H8PK90vm.jpg width=300https://i.imgur.com/I0602R3m.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/zz2yaxwm.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/8rGGJv2m.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/PikbpBrm.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/QqXtad8m.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/9KuqVUvm.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/9HIoy1wm.jpg width=200https://i.imgur.com/uWqjOF6m.jpg width=200
myredracer 08/22/19 10:34am Towing
RE: Is this normal for a 30 amp breaker

As per NEC you are only allowed to load a breaker to 80% of it's rated capacity that way you have room for start up current. My AC is only on a 15a breaker and draws 10 to 11 amps. A 20a breaker should be more than enough. And as it was stated earlier warm is normal but hot is a problem. However it never hurts to check the connections.That's not quite right when it comes to motorized appliances and equipment. An AC unit (and any motor for that matter) has the breaker "over-sized" (per NEC table) to ensure the compressor motor will start on the initial momentary inrush current of 50-60 amps of a typical AC unit. The 20 amp (or 15 amp) AC unit breaker isn't based on the full load running amps. Another thing to note is that a code-sized breaker for an AC unit doesn't take into account what happens when the voltage goes down which causes an AC unit to draw more current which can cause the 20 amp (or 15 amp) breaker to trip. A compressor load stays relatively constant but as voltage goes down, the motor has to draw more current to try to keep horsepower output up. The motor can end up drawing much more than 80% of the breaker rating and eventually cause it to trip due to the bimetal element heating up more. Low voltage is common in CGs in the summer and is often much higher than the 5% recommended by NEC.
myredracer 08/19/19 11:26am General RVing Issues
RE: Electricity? Never touch the stuff

OMG... I wish people would stop referring to "phases" in reference to 120/240 volt circuits and services. You might have a tough time with this. For examples, I used google to search for "120/240 volt circuits and services", and 4 of the first 5 hits talked about phase. My similar thing is that I wish people would stop bringing up calories when I go for the cookies or chips.I spent a career as an EE in the construction biz and can tell you it's always been line 1 & line 2. Go look at a 120/240 volt panel, meter base or fused disconnect switch somewhere and see what the labeling says on it. A 120/240 volt circuit/service is commonly called "single phase" but each hot leg is never referred to as a phase. Go by what internet "pros" say if you want tho...
myredracer 08/18/19 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: RV toilet paper

Any data on how fast those corn cobs will break down?Corn cobs? I thought they were Baby Ruth chocolate bar "logs" like in the swimming pool scene in Caddyshack. I think the peanuts would take a very looong time to break down... https://thumbs.gfycat.com/DearestTautAustrianpinscher-max-1mb.gif width=200
myredracer 08/18/19 09:32am Beginning RVing
RE: Is this normal for a 30 amp breaker

The 20 amp breaker for the air conditioner get warm when the air is running. Is this normal?Warm is normal. A circuit breaker has a bi-metal strip inside which gets warmer as the current going through it gets higher. When the strip warms up enough it "flips" and trips the breaker. Hot may or may not be okay depending on the actual temp. Breakers are designed to operate at up to 90 degrees celsius max. at rated current under UL standard 489. Also, UL 489 says: “The maximum temperature on handles, knobs, and other surfaces subject to user contact during normal operation shall not exceed 60 °C (140 °F) on metallic and 85 °C (185 °F) on nonmetallic surfaces.” One thing to note about the panels in RVs is that a 30 amp main breaker and 20 amp AC unit breaker are side by side and you can get a mutual heating effect. The plastic housings in RV panels also are as effective at dissipating heat compared to metal housing in panels in houses & buildings. I've read of some people aiming a fan at the breakers to keep them from tripping in hot weather when AC units are running constantly. Bad idea IMO.
myredracer 08/18/19 05:01am General RVing Issues
RE: Laws/Regulations for RV Fresh & Waste Water Service

NFPA 1192 covers plumbing and other systems in RVs. Doesn't prohibit grey water emptying into the black tank if that's what you meant. Sure wouldn't want to share "fresh" water and "waste" water. :E
myredracer 08/18/19 04:46am General RVing Issues
RE: Electricity? Never touch the stuff

OMG... I wish people would stop referring to "phases" in reference to 120/240 volt circuits and services. In the elec. industry, the two hot legs are always referred to as simply line 1 and line 2. See diagram below. To the OP, (if he comes back) I would not ignore voltage drop in the circuit if wanting the full 50 amps available (as opposed to just needing to run converter, fridge and other light loads). That would include overall length of all wiring from RV panel all the way back to the panel in the house. A calc. should also consider actual voltage at the house's panel. It is possible that heavier ga. wire is needed, but probably okay. 3 phase for residential and CG's??? Yea right that will happen right after the US switches from 120V to 240V. The UK did that right with 220V and 50Hz.RV parks are permitted to be connected to 3-phase 120/208 volt services if the secondary of the transformer is a "wye" configuration. The two hot legs are 120 degrees apart and referred to as phase A & B (or A & C or B & C) and the voltage from the neutral to a phase is 120 volts. See diagram below. Since it's uncommon for RVs to have 240 volt appliances, the reduced voltage of 208 doesn't affect anything. 120/208 volt services in CGs aren't very common but they are out there and you'd never know unless you used a voltmeter. https://r1spn12mh523ib7ly1ip4xkn-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Single_phase_3_wire.png width=200https://r1spn12mh523ib7ly1ip4xkn-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/3_phase_4_wire_wye.png width=200
myredracer 08/18/19 04:37am Tech Issues
RE: Why not forget holding tanks and just use portable tanks?

Jax does not get it, understand it and most likely will never understand it that Canadian rules that they are under do not apply once you cross the line from Canada to USA. Jax has a continual and deliberate habit of trying scare people into not doing something because they are not "Approved" by some overbearing Gov agency in Canada. I seriously doubt that 99% of the population in Canada follow all of those rules which Jax is so happy to point out to USA folks.. There is lots of primitive shacks in Canada which would not pass the muster for any rules.. WOW!! I HAVE TO SAY THAT THOSE MUST BE THE MOST IGNORANT AND OFFENSIVE COMMENTS I'VE EVER READ ON THIS FORUM. (Caps for emphasis, not shouting.) Thanks to Canada and our progressive and rigorous standards, MANY products in the US carry CSA (Canadian Standard Assoc.) certification which have been adopted in the US and also around the world. CSA protects the safety and health of everyday Americans every day whether you know it or not or like it or not. Yeah, we're so primitive here. CSA standards (and others) in themselves are voluntary but they're often legally required to be complied with under various OHS laws and other codes and regulations that MUST be legally followed in Canada, the US and elsewhere. Some American standards (NFPA for ex.) are legally required to be followed in Canada. It works both ways. How overbearing...
myredracer 08/10/19 12:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Why not forget holding tanks and just use portable tanks?

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myredracer 08/09/19 06:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: 30 amp plug question

It looks like a 30 amp cord could possibly get hung on the 4x4 junction when you push the cord all the way in. Maybe relocate the box to one side a bit if you have enough of the #10 romex to work with. But it's a bit hard to tell from the pics. https://i.imgur.com/V0Q8poH.jpg width=200
myredracer 08/09/19 05:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Why not forget holding tanks and just use portable tanks?

When I had a pop-up camper, here's what we were dealing with at St. Andrews SP in FL. Look at the lower right of the bulletin board on the bath house. I tried a bit of googling on the statute numbers on the sign. I didn't see anything specifically banning tote tanks. Maybe it's cross-referenced in their statutes. Would be interesting to see the exact wording, if any. Or is it just the particular CG that just doesn't want people dragging smelly noisy totes around? What if your tote tank is grey or you painted it pink?? :) Have been to a couple of CGs in Oregon where they said you can't lay you sewer hose directly on the ground. Most people do it anyway. It's a nuisance to have to set up hose supports especially if you have two outlets. I never do it. I tried to find the Oregon law once and couldn't. Maybe another example of CGs referencing rules that don't exist?
myredracer 08/09/19 03:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: AC question

I'm for leaving AC units off. Do you have 30 or 50 amps and do you know what the voltage is like when you're away? If it's on the low side near 105 volts at times, that will lead to damage to AC units. If you're 30 amps, running 2 AC units is inviting trouble even if you have good voltage. It can't really take that long to cool down? If it even does much anyway if really hot out... :( Folks leave fridges running all the time on electric when parked. Have you ever inspected the fridge burner or had a tech do it? They can deteriorate or get fouled up. I anything, do NOT leave water turned on!
myredracer 08/09/19 12:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Why not forget holding tanks and just use portable tanks?

I have an all aluminum trailer that I am turning into a toy hauler. The floor framing is 12" on center and I beam construction. This only leaves 8-9" width to fit the tanks in between the rails. For any kind of volume the tank would have to be quite tall. I do not want my storage tanks 7" from the road for obvious reasons. So...... Is it just craziness to think about running the drains to the waste valves and straight into those portable tanks you can roll to the dump station? I realize I would need one for grey and one for the black tank. What am I missing in this process? Or is it feasible and been done before? Thanks, RickNever heard of it before. Filling and dragging tote tanks to wherever the dump station is (and they can sometimes be far from your site) is a big PITA. And the larger the tote tank is, the more of a PITA to use. We have a smaller 18 gallon one that both DW and I can lift into the truck if needed. Not that they ever work well, or at all, but you obviously won't have sensors in a tote tank to tell how full the tank is. I assume you've looked into what's available in standard RV holding tank dimensions like here for example? Narrowest is 11" wide but only up to 25 gallons. They have a 7.75" wide 32 gallon one but is 21.5" tall. :E Would it be possible to relocate the joists to gain more width? Possibly double up the joists on either side, providing the sub-floor is thick enough? I would say 32 gallons is about as small as you want to go for holding tanks, for a black tank anyway so you're not running to the dump station every 2 or 3 days. A macerator pump *might* be an option but would still need a holding tank for the pump to pump out of. Could maybe get away with a small holding tank that way?? Then pump into a tank in the back of your truck?? Maybe you could be the honey wagon service in a CG that way and make a few bucks! :) Interesting comment above about RVIA requirement!
myredracer 08/09/19 11:57am General RVing Issues
RE: Topper under mattress

You might find a memory foam mattress is a better solution. We got an 8" one on sale we came across while away on a camping trip, 8 or so years ago. Shortened it with a bread knife in the CG. Very comfortable and deep-sleep inducing! Dog sure loves it!! :( We tried a couple of 2" toppers on our mattress at home and they just didn't last and ended up getting a "real" foam topper mattress. Only downside is that the thicker memory foam mattresses are a fair bit heavier. I had to relocate the two gas strut mounting locations on the under-bed storage lid so it would stay up. Easy to do tho.
myredracer 08/09/19 11:39am General RVing Issues
RE: A/C on 116 volts?

I've run it occasionally with voltage reading as low as 100. Not recommended I know. But no problems yet. Crossing fingers.Low voltage damages the windings on AC motors due to overheating the insulation. The damage is cumulative over time and an AC unit can suddenly fail one day for no obvious reason. Also, when an AC unit starts up, it draws a momentary inrush current of around 50-60 amps. Even if you're at a borderline of 104 volts when running and you think you're okay, the voltage can dip very low and still damage the motors. The voltage dips so fast you can't tell how much on a voltmeter. Replacing AC units is an expensive affair and not worth gambling IMO. I installed a flush-mounted mini LED panel meter on the wall near the door. I got a quality US-made Datel meter but any of the inexpensive ones out there should be just fine. Available in a plug-in version too. And 'cos it's a hobby and time & money is no object, I also installed one of their ammeters right above the voltmeter. Current rarely goes much above 15-20 amps and it's the voltmeter that is by far most useful. If you had a hard-wired EMS with remote display inside, you could also read volts & amps that way but I find the constant scrolling of the data to be annoying. http://www.datelmeters.com/images/acline_graphics1.jpg width=150http://www.datelmeters.com/images/acline_graphics2.jpg width=150http://www.datelmeters.com/images/aca20pc_graphics.jpg width=150
myredracer 08/09/19 11:26am Tech Issues
RE: Which Sat Antenna & Receiver to Get...

The campgrounds I usually stay at are packed with trees, so finding a clear shot to the satellites is sometimes difficult. I have a carry-out system, the King Tailgater 3 with the 211 Z receiver and use the Dish pay-as-you-go plan. When I get a good satellite signal, it’s a great system.I use the dishpointer.com app for finding a hole through trees when we're in a CG with lots of them. We're on a Canadian sat. service and use an 18" dish but no difference except for where a particular sat is in the Clarke belt. I've been able to get signals sometimes when I wouldn't have otherwise been able to figure out where to aim. Sometimes it can be a case of moving the dish just 5-10' in one direction or another to get through a hole in the trees. The dishpointer app is also good when deciding what site to choose. I sometimes drive around a CG, get out and aim my phone in the sky to see if I can see a sat. I tell onlookers I'm just checking for aliens to see if it's safe there... :) I could be wrong, but a larger dia. dish on a tripod and manually aiming it might be able to catch a stronger signal when dealing with trees or other obstacles. Not sure how you can find an optimal location with one of those small self-aiming dishes. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RZFO5drVVsRronrl03PWvCSeAXbINwzoPsTfDO_jVDEQH4DXm7cbFxH2Vu_SQVfosMd0=w412-h220-rw width=300
myredracer 08/08/19 08:28pm Technology Corner
RE: A/C on 116 volts?

To add to the above, it's a good idea to have a permanently mounted LED voltmeter inside. Voltage can often fluctuate over 24 hours, depending on how many other occupied sites there are and how many are running AC units. Other RV-ers can also drag the voltage down around lunch and dinner time due to some folks using electric appliances in addition to AC units. If you see voltage at around 110 you may want to keep an eye on it. If it gets below 105, that's when it can cause damage to AC units. If you do encounter low voltage, as mentioned, an autoformer may keep you going when you'd otherwise have to shut the AC off. An EMS unit is a good investment as it will automatically shut you down on low voltage.
myredracer 08/08/19 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: 30 amp plug question

Do you have what's often called a "mouse hole" where you push the cord into? If so, it sounds like the PO disconnected the 30 amp cord just inside the mouse hole and reconnected a 15 amp extension cord. No problem with that electrically, but yes, not good for running an AC plus other loads. Sounds like all you need to do is buy a 30 amp (#10 awg) RV shore power cord and and reconnect to the trailer's wiring. You should have #10 romex cable at the mouse hole running to the 120 volt 30 amp panel that you'd splice to. If the PO changed that, you'd need to install some new #10 romex to the panel. Some RVs have a detachable cord with twist-lock connecter on it instead, but I'm guessing you have a mouse hole setup. The new cord could be a replacement cord without female connector on it like in 1st photo, or a 30 amp extension cord like 2nd photo and you'd simply cut the female connector off. Just need to make sure it's for an RV with a NEMA TT-30P plug. Available on Amazon, ebay and RV parts vendors for around $50. Or try your local Craiglist for a deal on one. If you're somewhere that only has a 15 or 20 amp receptacle (typically at a home), you can use a 30 to 15 amp adapter as shown below which works fine for keeping a fridge and converter going. https://tweetys.com/ProductImages/rv_elec_images/559678_silo.jpg width=200https://leisurecw.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/2000x2000_7.jpg width=200
myredracer 08/08/19 06:43pm Travel Trailers
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