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 > Your search for posts made by 'n0arp' found 292 matches.

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RE: New Ram 5500 Build

https://imgur.com/0ALQICk.jpg width=640 This is in an area we frequented with the 3500, but further up the road than we ever ventured with it. We traveled the road in several times with the 3500 but always ended up with a corner up off the ground regardless of the line we picked. The 5500 rolling on taller tires stayed planted firmly on the ground the whole way. The longer wheelbase almost caused an issue where the drivers front toolbox would have contacted a large boulder in the middle of the road, but we were able to put a rock in front of the rear tire to crawl comfortably up and over. It might have made it otherwise, but with little to no wiggle room. Getting here was a great shakeout/test. It feels notably more stable than the other truck in off-camber situations. https://imgur.com/PEA9zh9.jpg width=640 The front tires also caught the front bumper when compressed and turned at the same time, so we pulled out the angle grinder and did some trimming before proceeding up the road.
n0arp 09/23/21 02:59pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

That’s going to be a tall rig. Congrats! I actually measured this morning -- we should lose 3" with this rig! That'll be around 12'9". The flatbed on the old truck was really far off the frame rails due to it being a bed delete. The deck height was 48" unloaded. This truck should be about 45" (35.5" to the top of the rear rails (highest point), around 2.5" additional height from the tires, and 7-1/8" for the flatbed, but might squat less -- so it could end up a wash. Should be far under 13'6" regardless. Thanks! Ah! Just found the answer to one of my questions. :B Final height is 12'10". Got into a remote site in the national forest this morning and it handled some fairly sketchy terrain through the trees like a champ. I'll take photos later.
n0arp 09/23/21 12:36pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

EYEMLOST - I think hydraulic and rack/pinion slides are likely to avoid issues. There are probably much larger chances of issues with cable and/or schwintek slides. thomasmnile and anyone I missed - thanks for the compliments. We're loving how it's turning out.
n0arp 09/21/21 12:53pm Truck Campers
RE: hydro or electric leveling

We've had both, and will only ever have hydraulic going forward. Much faster, more reliable, more convenient, etc. We had issues with gears (sheared one) and motors (burned one out) on our electric jacks. On our hydraulic system, the only issue we ever had was a leaking seal that still allowed the system to work until it was replaced. I think you can get auto-leveling with electric now, but auto-leveling with hydraulic is all that was available (I think) when we purchased, and it's a feature I wouldn't want to go without. You can easily lift the whole trailer with the hydraulics - not something I recommend doing - but it's gotten us out of a pinch on more than one occasion. Once for an emergency suspension repair, and once for getting us unstuck. I don't believe the electric jacks are capable of that.
n0arp 09/20/21 12:59pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

On the last truck I had a Viair RV-450P compressor permanently mounted under the flatbed. This time I decided to put some of the dead space in the front bumper to use, and keep the wires short so I could use what I had on hand. So here is the same compressor (mounted upside down -- yes I'm aware of the caveats -- it's been upside down for years) from above. Made a cap with quick connect and a cut off bolt. It's wired up to one of the factory aux switches on a relay. I might paint/swap the hardware for black at some point. https://imgur.com/lwcP2p5.jpg width=640
n0arp 09/18/21 05:50pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

1) How much sway do you feel with your camper as depicted in the first pic? a) My concern with a behemoth camper like yours is it's weight swaying during traveling on unmaintained backcountry fire/dirt roads. Little to none. The rig was extremely stable due to 245/70R19.5 LRH tires and 4600# SuperSprings, which are basically DIY add-a-leafs. I expect the new truck to be just as stable. 2) Any issues with the pull-out as a result of traveling on unmaintained dirt roads? a) My concern is the vibrations of traveling offroad like we do could wreck havoc on the tracks of said pull-outs causes damage and/or maintenance nightmares. Nope. Never had issues in our fifth wheel either, and don't know any other people who've had slide issues that could be tied back to your concern. 3) Any issues with the wheelbase while offroading? Sort of. We have to be aware of it, and that'll be even more apparent with the 84CA. However, we've never found it to be a detrimental issue and the most damage we've had was some dents in the bottom of the factory steps on the old rig. We'll see how the new one does. 4) How much do you think you actually use 4WD while off the road? a) During my 45 years of offroading (entire Moab spectrum) I've found that I genuinely only use 4WD about 25-30% of the time; granted my rear is locked. b) Hubs are locked, but I'm mostly driving in 2WD. We use 4WD often, especially in mud and snow. We use 4LO even when traction doesn't require it, because it the low range just lets you crawl over obstacles you'd otherwise have to throttle out on. I had the old rig stuck a handful of times, but had the winch/ recovery gear/ Jeep to get it out with and that was part of the fun. 5) Any flexing/flexing issues in the rear frame/flatbed area? Yes, but not since going flatbed. The factory bed was a lot less rigid and was subject to twisting off-road, but we've never seen the same movement with a flatbed. We blame that movement for some frame sag issues at the rear passenger corner. I reinforced the area with some angle iron bolted to the frame and the sag is gone. We did go with the 84CA to get more camper support.
n0arp 09/18/21 05:35pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

The tow hooks for a 3500 came in, but don't actually fit - so I went back to the 5500 ones used an angle grinder to notch out the clearance I needed. The 3500 ones look cast, while the 5500s look like forged bar and are about twice as heavy. I'm sure they're still stronger than the 3500 ones even after a little cutting. https://imgur.com/y5oy9a9.jpg width=640 Also installed the mud flaps, 8" off the ground with the TC loaded. https://imgur.com/bmQyZIk.jpg width=640
n0arp 09/18/21 09:21am Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

With flaps, they also lower mpg. Not to measurable degree, but they do. So does the front camper stands. So does the aftermarket front bumper. So does the front storage boxes. So do the heavier/larger aftermarket tires/rims. Just sayin'....... Yeah... I'm not exactly trying to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this thing. I think if I had to worry about fractional gallons of fuel consumption, perhaps I should have bought a less expensive rig and kept the savings for fuel. $10K less on the rig pays for about 25K miles in fuel, according to some quick/fuzzy math.
n0arp 09/17/21 09:25am Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

Just to put a quick before/after together on the wheels and tires: https://imgur.com/eK60xVX.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/vhr0pGg.jpg width=640
n0arp 09/17/21 07:22am Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

Haven't got to the mudflaps yet, maybe tomorrow when I'm working on the tow hooks. The Ranch Hand for a 3500 fits the 5500 fine, but the tow hooks don't clear so I ordered the ones for a 3500. I did get the wheels and tires on and drove about 70mi with them -- they handle and feel much more like the factory ones than I expected. https://imgur.com/CeaqzTM.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/yBXsqdU.jpg width=640
n0arp 09/16/21 09:36pm Truck Campers
RE: Used Tow Bar Values

every tow bar I have seen once you pull forward they lock in place. So braking device has nothing to do with it. sounds like they either never locked or was broken. Exactly. They were locked in, but one of the locks broke during the incident. That was mentioned on the first page: https://imgur.com/Cmzp3NV.jpg width=640 Also, with the InvisiBrake there is a small but notable delay (<1s) in the braking of the TOAD. And soft, long springs don't do you any favors when it comes to preventing the TOAD from diving.
n0arp 09/15/21 10:01am Dinghy Towing
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

I think trucks should have them. The only problem with having them directly behind the tires as shown in the picture is that they can be pulled off if you try to back over something tall enough that they get caught between that “something” and the tires. Not common, but it happens. :):) That's why I was thinking about not installing them. I've never actually had that happen, though. It might be interesting to put them behind the boxes.
n0arp 09/13/21 04:56pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

What's everyone opinion on mud flaps? We domicile in SD, and as far as I can tell they are not required there. The boxes behind the tires seem like they'll do a pretty good job of keeping debris from flying up and hitting anything. I saved the heavy RAM flaps from the old truck to put on this one, but might not bother. Here they are on the old truck: https://imgur.com/lZuZWbz.jpg width=640
n0arp 09/13/21 02:08pm Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

So you paid 3X for installation yet had only about half the work done? Is that correct? Does that mean you paid for installation you didn't get; or had they done the complete installation list, you would have paid waaaaay more? :h Love your set up! The install fee was supposed to include the toolboxes, parking sensors, backup camera, and additional 7-pin connector. After it spent four full days in the shop for a simple bed install and I found that the boxes weren't installed to my standards, I just opted to take it home as-is. I arrived around 3PM on Friday and they had three guys stay until 9PM getting it from "the bed is on the truck but not actually attached" to "the bed and boxes are attached". Since that's 18 hours of labor (3 guys * 6 hours each), I just cut my losses and decided not to argue on pricing. They put the time in, regardless of how slow they work. I figure labor at a shop like that is worth $80-120/hr and they wouldn't let that fact go if I tried to get a refund. The fixed rate for the install was $1450 -- I spent a fixed $550 for my last flatbed install and one guy had it done in a day (and it was a more complicated install due to the bed delete and wiring hell). They would have done everything for that price, but who knows when I would have gotten it back or how well it would be done. It was supposed to be ready for pick up first thing Thursday morning. -- I'm liking how things are turning out though, this new truck is going to be awesome.
n0arp 09/13/21 11:19am Truck Campers
RE: New Ram 5500 Build

Had a shop that carried a bed I liked, install the flat bed for me. https://imgur.com/sRN7CRr.jpg width=640 Their install price was atrocious, but I was willing to pay for it because I had no way to do the install myself. They charged 3x what it cost to get my last flatbed installed. They had the truck for two days longer than quoted, did a poor job on several parts of the install, and didn't do a lot of what I asked for. On the other hand, they stayed until 9PM on Friday night because I had my wife drop me off and told them I wasn't leaving until my truck was done. They may have taken more time and done the rest if I weren't rushing them, but they already were way over the time window they quoted. Notice in the above photo how the toolboxes were not installed flat. I had to build spacers and correct that yeasterday. They also installed the bumper... https://imgur.com/26MB6Oz.jpg width=640 ... but didn't trim the fender liner to match and didn't install the winch like they were supposed to. Other than that, the install looks pretty good... especially since both Ranch Hand and the shop said the 3500 bumper wouldn't fit the 5500. The only thing that didn't fit were the tow hooks, so I ordered a set for the 3500s which will clear the bumper and fit. Those should be here in a few days. https://imgur.com/qM2kB0m.jpg width=640 Like for my old truck, I ran angle down the sides of the bed with 51" between them. I decided to change it up and use an extra mat to have a full 51" of coverage because my camper sometimes was sitting off the side of the mat on the old truck. I shim the camper base (49" wide) in with 1" plastic blocks I cut from Camco bricks. Also mounted the spare on the headache rack and put some dock bumpers in the front. https://imgur.com/Z8nn1Vs.jpg width=640 Got the camper on the truck, upper toolboxes reinstalled, then started working on the tie downs. Ended up just drilling hles in the rub rail to put them where I wanted. My tie downs are homebrew fastguns, that use threaded rod which is great because I can cut them to the appropriate sizes. The top toolboxes are 48+18" on each side, bottom ones are 48+24" on each side. In addition, so much deck space... https://imgur.com/ClJ0znC.jpg width=640 My fix for the camper (see earlier post) took out all but about 1/8" of the sag, and I was able to use the same location to lock in the 2kW generator and gas can I carry (in addition to the factory onboard) with the tie down as a theft deterrent. https://imgur.com/sX4oCtO.jpg width=640 The 18" extension I bought was perfect for towing the Jeep with, and I sat in the Home Depot parking lot for an hour making lots of noise. If you look back up at the photo of the generator storage, notice that I cut arches above the tires that will give me better clearance when the 37s go on. I may need to weld in a radiused sheet to soften the edge if the tire hits, but it's better to have the clearance and if needed, I'll deal with that once I have the tires fitted today. -- The shop also failed to install the 7-pin connector on the headache rack, backup camera, and parking sensors that they agreed to install, so I installed the sensors and fabbed up a quick bracket for the camera and got that on yesterday. I'm not sure if I'm just going to use a splitter or bother adding another 7-pin myself yet. -- We moved about an hour up the road yesterday, and the new truck feels way more stable than the 3500. We're happy we made the switch.
n0arp 09/13/21 08:02am Truck Campers
RE: 400 mile electric RV

I'm a little skeptical that they'll be shipping this in any reasonable quantity by next year - Zeus Electric says their chassis provides 150 miles of range, so the RV manufacturer would need to triple the battery size (or add more batteries) to hit that goal. I think we'll see RV's based on the Ford Transit electric chassis before you can buy a 400 mile range one from this company. The Transit only gives 120 miles of range, but that one way distance would handle nearly all of my weekend trips. Interesting, I just went to their site and looked closely at the photos. Their class 6 truck has rear coil springs. You don't see that anywhere else...
n0arp 09/10/21 04:19pm Tech Issues
RE: ProPride and lifted 3500

What kind of lift do you have? That makes a big difference. It's a CST stage 1 suspension subframe lift. The rear has blocks between axle and leaf springs. If you just have blocks on the rear, you don't have to worry about permanently deforming your springs under the load in question.
n0arp 09/10/21 10:27am Towing
RE: ProPride and lifted 3500

But for the sake of getting it home without a WD hitch installed, I expect the rear end to sag. I just hope it doesn't become a permanent sag :) What kind of lift do you have? That makes a big difference.
n0arp 09/10/21 10:14am Towing
RE: ProPride and lifted 3500

Simple method to figure out you lower rating is old diam tire/new diam tire times rear ratio. (32/35)3.73 = 3.41 effective axel ratio. If you were stock at 31", then you are down to a 3.3 effective ratio. I'm assuming you have a DMAX with that high of a GCWR. Being as 3.73 is the only ratio, no way to tell where you really are per say now in comparison. SWG about 88% or 26,300 +/-. Remember gcwr is a performance/warranty rating only. Question becomes, what performance are you looking at etc. Holding 60 in DOD vs OD vs Direct at 1800 rpm......pulling an X% grade with out stalling in 1st gear. Marty Yes it's a duramax with a 10 speed allison. According to their spec sheet it's actually 3.42. I went from a 33" tire to a 35" tire and it dropped my ratio to 3.22. About a 6% loss. I did some regearing research and I'm not sure a 6% difference is worth it? SWG about 88% or 26,300 - What is SWG? I think that trailer is light enough that if I were happy with the performance, I wouldn't bother.
n0arp 09/10/21 09:04am Towing
RE: ProPride and lifted 3500

Simple method to figure out you lower rating is old diam tire/new diam tire times rear ratio. (32/35)3.73 = 3.41 effective axel ratio. If you were stock at 31", then you are down to a 3.3 effective ratio. I'm assuming you have a DMAX with that high of a GCWR. Being as 3.73 is the only ratio, no way to tell where you really are per say now in comparison. SWG about 88% or 26,300 +/-. Remember gcwr is a performance/warranty rating only. Question becomes, what performance are you looking at etc. Holding 60 in DOD vs OD vs Direct at 1800 rpm......pulling an X% grade with out stalling in 1st gear. Marty The Duramax or any truck with that much torque is pretty good about overlooking 35" tires. Mine was on 35s and hauling a 16K fiver without issues, and that was before I tuned it. It was just a LML, not the more powerful L5P which would have the performance mine had with the tow tune I ran.
n0arp 09/10/21 08:57am Towing
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