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 > Your search for posts made by 'ognend' found 112 matches.

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RE: 2013 Palomino Maverick 2910 roof question

Slice the bubble. Squeeze in some glue. Add weight. Let dry. Top with Eternabond tape. Thanks. I am going to buy it as a project to repair. I went back there this morning and inserted a moisture meter in the ceiling, it is registering > 50% so it means an active leak. The owner allowed me to strip the ceiling cover in one spot and I got lucky, there is aluminum cross members in the roof - which means you can replace sections of luan and foam insulation if you wanted to since you would have somewhere to attach the new replacement stuff. But yeah, if you (can) find the leak and fix it, I think a good drying off period + epoxy/glue and a new patch on top and it should be good to go. Otherwise the camper appears to be in great shape. Owner is older and quite heavy so I think he may not have been on the roof often or at all.
ognend 10/03/21 01:51pm Truck Campers
2013 Palomino Maverick 2910 roof question

Hello! What are the roofs on the 2013 Palomino Mavericks (2910 model) made of? Are they the dreaded laminated luan/foam RV style roofs that cannot be repaired if leaks occur? The only information I can find on these models is the story from Truck Camper Magazine that says these models were "fully welded aluminum frame campers", which to means the roof has aluminum cross members (a good thing). Thanks! (Saw one for sale for a very good price but noticed a small bubble on the roof - just curious...)
ognend 10/02/21 07:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

Do Cab&Chassis trucks weigh more than standard DRW trucks (all other things equal)? I bought a 2021 3500 Chevy DRW cab/chassis gasser, crew cab, 4x4. The stated payload on Chevy's website for an "equivalent" gasser (3500 DRW, crew cab, 4x4) is 6610 lbs, stated GVWR is 14,000lbs. Since my vehicle is "incomplete", can I assume the same payload (6610 lbs) plus whatever the weight of the "deleted" bed would be on the equivalent 8ft pickup, minus whatever flatbed I installed? In practical terms, I have a Hillsboro GII steel bed that weighs 1230lbs. If I assume that the 8ft DRW bed weighs 500lbs, can I do 6610lbs + 500 lbs - 1230 lbs = payload of 5880lbs on my cab/chassis equivalent? Thanks! So back to OP's question - I'm almost certain the pickup with bed deleted will be lighter than a CC, assuming same engine, options, wheelbase, etc. A boxed frame is stronger than a C-channel pound for pound. Their shape is also easier to optimize to squeeze out more weight to strength ratios. With a c-channel, you have to be straight and uniform in cross-section for up-fitting. Thank you. This is my impression as I cannot explain the difference in weights/payloads.
ognend 09/05/21 08:52am Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

I tend to agree with Grit on this one. I've never even used a WDH, none of the trailers on our farm had them growing up and my dad never bothered with one on our old TT. Our old pop up camper was fine without one. We have a fifth wheel now but there's a very good chance we'll go to a TT or TT Toy Hauler for our next camper and I'll certainly give the basic ball a shot before I spend any money on a WDH. If nothing else at least give it a shot. It might work better than you think. Thanks. I am a bit puzzled as to how to approach this. Right now I have the new '21 Chevy DRW cab/chassis truck. I am waiting on delivery of a Palomino HS-2902 Max truck camper which will be around 4200 lbs wet. This leaves me about a 1000-1100 lbs for the bumper pull hitch for my about 6500-6800 lbs horse trailer. I guess I will know once I have the whole combo set up. My guess is that the truck camper will lower the back of the truck enough for the WD to be necessary with the bumper pull hitch. Not excluding the possibility of needing a set of Timbrens or SuperSprings to bring the truck back to level. After it is at level, I will have to determine whether I will need a WD and anti-sway bar. So many variables....
ognend 08/30/21 08:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

Excuse me for ruining your day up there on the pedestal of towing Gods. Jeez. Have to excuse him, he's got over 15,000 posts (average 5 a day) so he's "that guy" at the campground bar. Yes, my apologies. Would it have made a difference if I just simply said “you don’t need it”? Doubtful. That would have gathered the same crosswise reactions from all of those that believe you can’t leave the house without your wdh, virtually regardless of the type/size of trailer being pulled. Fwiw, that “theory” lives almost exclusively with the RV crowd. Not sure why, but suspect inexperienced drivers and good RV salesman have a good part in it. Furthermore, horse trailers in general are designed with the axles farther aft than say a typical TT or utility trailer. Why? To ensure adequate tongue weight on a “non adjustable” but variable load. Horses move around right? If they could move too far aft, they would create a bad towing situation. But as I don’t agree with the “you need a wdh” for everything moniker, carry on. Regardless, the stability control of the vehicle is not a good substitute for sway control, if it’s actually needed. It would tax the vehicle and/or trailers brake systems almost constantly with a trailer that was un-duly squirrelly. Vehicle systems also work on a different premise. While anti sway hitches make it hard to turn or pivot on the stinger, resulting in a straighter pull, vehicle systems use brakes and throttle, mostly brakes, to yank a trailer back straight. Proactive vs reactive systems is a good descriptor. Again, sorry because y’all likely don’t want to hear this from me…. This is actually a very nice explanation. Thank you!
ognend 08/30/21 02:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

I agree with Grit. Will depend on the combo and how it tows without. Also read the complete towing section of the owners' manual as there could be more details than the marketing brochure. Some truck hitches want the weight distribution etc. to go over 5,000 pounds trailer weight. Plenty of larger trailers tow just fine with just a pintle hook. Give it a go and post the results. I've been towing this trailer since 2007 with 4 different trucks (1/2 ton, 2 3/4 ton diesels and now a 1-ton DRW cab/chassis) - I always used the same adjustable WD/sway-bar hitch since the trailer has been the same trailer since 2007. I was just hoping to see if I can do without the anti-sway bar on the trailer/hitch and maybe without the weight distribution as well. The trailer has a GVWR of 7,000lbs and my current truck is 8800lbs. I read my towing section of the truck manual and I understand about weight distribution in trailer and need to have 10-15% of trailer weight on the hitch. Sorry, not angry, just presented a couple scenarios where you would or wouldn’t need trailer sway or wdh. In the 14ish years you’ve towed the same trailer, with now 4 different trucks, and just blindly hooked up the wdh because you thought it was “needed”, now you’re asking if it’s needed. Have you once towed it without the wdh and or sway control? How did it handle? Therein lies your answer. I always towed with WD/anti-sway, well, because like everyone said, I figured hardware is hardware but also because none of the trucks I had until now had flatbeds that extended low in the back. The current truck has a 9ft4" flatbed that when doing max turning runs into the WD arms of the hitch, hence restricting my maximum turn radius - this is fairly annoying. I did away with the WD arms but kept the anti-sway bar which is not in the way. The trailer pulls just fine but obviously I can't test every imaginable scenario - hence I though I ask if the truck "software" has been show to be capable of replacing the hitch "hardware". Sometimes these systems have been in place for years and after many years of existence, you could get a definitive answer...
ognend 08/30/21 02:02pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

It will work but not as well as a properly set up trailer with a good hitch weight and a WDH with sway control. One problem is if it is activated a lot, you will wear out brakes and burn more fuel...so better than losing control but not a good plan for every day towing. I have pondered the same. Just set the wdh with a tad bit of weight and make use of the sway controll. I upgraded to a 2500, i dont need a wdh hitch or sway controll either. But i still ise it because, i have it , and it can help. Tbh, this last trip it probably saved my ass. Going over the Delaware bridge, at like 55 mph, a large garbage can type construction cone was shot in front of me. I swerved a bit, not much as there was cars in both lanes on my side. I hot it with the truck on the front left. It cam back at me and hit the TT on the front left. If i dint have the equilizer i think i may not have controlled the sway from the impact. Trailer, lucky had minor damage, ripped the bolts of the bottom of the dimond plate, and took out the electric break wires. Use the hitch. Its not just about minimums. It can save you a wreck. And maybe your life. While this dosen't happen often it can happen. And i dont know for sure that the wdh/sway saved me. But i will say i think it did. Thanks for relaying your experience - I am one of those people who is always checking and double checking and understanding weight limits,distribution and erring on side of caution. This thread was more to see if TCS and Stabilitrak made the hardware in the back obsolete (I guess not!). One thing I dislike is the WD bars on my hitch, since I got this new flatbed DRW cab/chassis, in full-radius turns the back of the flatbed is low enough to hit the WD bar and hence limit my turning radius. This is is what really started the ball rolling on getting rid of WD and sway bar... ;)
ognend 08/30/21 04:41am Tow Vehicles
RE: Does the Color of an HD Pickup Make a Difference?

I think he was looking on advice on colors, not the economy and supply chains ;). I think the shortages will be here next year as well but I also think that because of the shortages, colors will not matter.
ognend 08/29/21 02:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

I agree with Grit. Will depend on the combo and how it tows without. Also read the complete towing section of the owners' manual as there could be more details than the marketing brochure. Some truck hitches want the weight distribution etc. to go over 5,000 pounds trailer weight. Plenty of larger trailers tow just fine with just a pintle hook. Give it a go and post the results. I've been towing this trailer since 2007 with 4 different trucks (1/2 ton, 2 3/4 ton diesels and now a 1-ton DRW cab/chassis) - I always used the same adjustable WD/sway-bar hitch since the trailer has been the same trailer since 2007. I was just hoping to see if I can do without the anti-sway bar on the trailer/hitch and maybe without the weight distribution as well. The trailer has a GVWR of 7,000lbs and my current truck is 8800lbs. I read my towing section of the truck manual and I understand about weight distribution in trailer and need to have 10-15% of trailer weight on the hitch.
ognend 08/29/21 02:17pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

Why do you need it? If the answer is because your trailer tows poorly and is all over the road, then absolutely you cannot get rid of it. Why would you want your vehicle trying to compensate for a schitty handling trailer with its own brakes ALL the time? However, if the answer is you do not know why you need it, perhaps only because someone said it was required, then you most likely dont need it nor did you ever need it, regardless of what fancy features the truck has. I am not sure why these angry tones - it was a simple question. I put on weight distribution/anti sway hitch on my trailer because it is cheap insurance but this was back in 2007 when I had a 1500 truck (1/2 ton). Now I have a truck that weighs more than the trailer and a truck that has all this fancy new stuff like traction control, stabilitrak etc. So, I thought I ask. Excuse me for ruining your day up there on the pedestal of towing Gods. Jeez.
ognend 08/29/21 11:37am Tow Vehicles
RE: Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

Lol, it will help after you start swaying. I would rather have a sway bar that prevents sway from happening in the first place. Its cheap insurance. I have a sway bar and I have a WD hitch but the hitch is like, 50 lbs and the WD arms reduce my turning radius (my flatbed/hitch is low in the back and comes up against the WD arms). It is a pain in the arse to set up as well, every time I need to hook up. I was hoping I could do away with the whole thing.
ognend 08/28/21 08:46pm Tow Vehicles
Traction control systems and trailer sway bars

Hello! I have been reading my new truck manual (yeah, I know!) and in the towing section it mentions that the Traction Control System and Stabilitrak system "sense" trailer sway and selectively apply trailer and truck brakes (and may even reduce engine torque) if they sense your trailer is swaying. Does this mean I can do away with my sway bar? Or is this just sounding great on paper but not in practice? I would not mind doing away with the sway bar but on the other hand it is a "hardware device" that needs no computers and is really not subject to any failure and needs nothing to operate. Thanks!
ognend 08/28/21 06:44pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

Correct Ron. OP can probably run down the road based on what he says his registered wight is at 16-18000 too. At least here, that would be the case. Even 25000 for that matter. Not that any one with a typical 35 series dually should be at 25000gvw. Wieght won't be issue. Some law rule etc will get them off the road. It will be a painfully $$$$$ lesson. Marty Marty, I am not sure what you mean by your remark on "Some law rule etc will get them off the road. It will be a painfully $$$$$ lesson". I plan on running a Palomino HS-2902 Max truck camper (3261 lbs dry weight, probably 4200 lbs wet) and towing a 2-horse bumper pull trailer at the same time (loaded about 6500lbs). I was told in Virginia you have to register for max GCW you intend, so went with a large number (25000lbs). Before I went with the current truck camper/bumper pull setup, I had some plans on buying a horse trailer with living quarters - these usually come in at 13-14,000 lbs - plus loaded weight of truck (9000lbs) - I would have come in at 22-23,000lbs max (hence I registered for 25,000). Either way I am not over GVWR, not over GCWR, not over RAWR and not over my registered weight... - how would I learn a "painful $$$$$ lesson"? Thanks!
ognend 08/28/21 02:15pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

I never saw an answer as to what the OP has. If he got a pick up with no bed, it is rated far less then a chassis& cab unit.GM 3500 chassis & Cab I am the OP - I have a crew cab 4x4 cab/chassis Chevy 6.6L gas truck. p.s. The Chevy equivalent page to the GMC lists available payload as 5,751–7,040 lbs (https://www.chevrolet.com/commercial/silverado-3500hd-chassis-cab)
ognend 08/28/21 02:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

In regards to the power difference, this is due to emissions certifications. A complete pickup goes through what is called a chassis dyno certification since the truck is complete. This certification is less stringent and more power can be had. For C&C trucks, they go through a engine dyno certification since the truck is not complete when it leaves the factory. A lot of people think it has to do with duty cycles, but it is only due to different emissions requirements and certifications. I was among those who erroneously thought the difference was due to duty cycle. I understand that the chassis dyno cert used on complete trucks is different than the engine dyno cert used on incomplete trucks. My question is, if a pickup with X power rating and a cab and chassis truck with Y (lower) power rating were compared side by side using a chassis dyno, will they produce the same amount of power at the wheels? I spoke to the fleet manager of the very large dealer I bought my cab/chassis truck from - he said that, at least for the Chevy/GMs, the same engine/rating is in both a 3/4 ton truck and a 3500 cab/chassis one, no "detuning" going on on the gasser side (6.6L engine).
ognend 08/27/21 08:15pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

Two of the main differences between the two are frame and engine power. The difference in the frame is mainly due to ease of up-fitting beds and such. It is a lot harder to up-fit and cut into a fully boxed frame versus a c-channel frame. Not to mention that part of a fully boxed frame's strength comes form it being fully boxed so cutting into it may weaken it significantly. The c-channel frame may be thicker(and heavier), but that does not mean the fully boxed frame is not as strong. It is just easier to modify the c-channel frame which is why many many C&C trucks are fully boxed up front and c-channel in the back. In regards to the power difference, this is due to emissions certifications. A complete pickup goes through what is called a chassis dyno certification since the truck is complete. This certification is less stringent and more power can be had. For C&C trucks, they go through a engine dyno certification since the truck is not complete when it leaves the factory. A lot of people think it has to do with duty cycles, but it is only due to different emissions requirements and certifications. There might be a few other differences as well depending on the make and model. By power difference - is this what they mean by "de-tuned"? I know Ford's 7.3L gasser is "de-tuned" from 430HP to 385HP but I always thought that the engine is actually the same, it is just that the HP is measured across different torque range? From what I understand on the Chevy 3500 Cab/Chassis, there is no such thing as "de-tuned" engine. Did I misunderstand all this? Thanks! As for frame difference - I can't figure out if you are saying that yes, C/C is heavier that "standard" 8ft dually (all other things equal) because of the frame, or not? ;)
ognend 08/27/21 02:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

Re: Tonnage - I am registered for 25000 lbs. In Virginia my understanding is you register up to the GCW you intend to carry/tow. The way I understood it, my truck weighs 8800lbs, my horse trailer can weigh up to 7000lbs (its GVWR) so that's 16,000lbs (I also have a 7,000 GVWR farm trailer for hay/equipment) and also my truck camper (4200 lbs wet weight) so total 20,000lbs or so. Is this what you guys are referring to? Did I understand it correctly?
ognend 08/27/21 01:59pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

Forget the 14k!!! Go by what your rear axle weighs ready to tow subtracted from your RAWR. That's basically your payload. Buy proper tonnage to cover your 6 tires, now you are good to go. What do you mean by "buy proper tonnage to cover your 6 tires"? Thanks!
ognend 08/27/21 09:54am Tow Vehicles
RE: Delays in camper buiddate

I shopped for a truck for six months. My 2016 XLT Powerstroke with 53K miles on it sold for $49,000 to a dealer (!) who turned around and asked $53,000 for it (I think they got less) - I paid $55K for it brand new in 2016! I started looking for my new truck in January and finally took possession in July - for the most part I would find one and it would be gone before hitting the lot. I eventually bought a cab and chassis truck from a fleet arm of the dealer, who were much more honest - I even got money off MSRP and they did not try to tack on a "market adjustment fee" (many dealers tried to add $3-5,000 to price because trucks were nowhere to be found). My Palomino HS-2902 Max was supposed to be done first week of September - I am going to Indiana from Virginia to pick it up. Then I got a call that it is now last week of September "if they don't run into any part shortages". This makes me wonder what the quality of the camper build will be... Oh well, we should not complain, these are all "disposable income" luxury purchases, not life and death kind of deals...
ognend 08/27/21 05:20am Truck Campers
RE: Cab/chassis vs standard DRW

If you have 4 power windows, theres your 100 lbs right there! 20-25 lbs per window for the four mechanisms. Marty Haha yep, thank you Marty, how we take stuff like power windows for granted. I even proudly tell people I have a bare bones W/T truck that I paid cash for but I forget that power windows is not really bare bones ;)
ognend 08/27/21 05:02am Tow Vehicles
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