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 > Your search for posts made by 'otrfun' found 269 matches.

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RE: Great Tow Capacity - Bad Payload Capacity... Increase PL?

I believe it was around 2016 that the RAWR on the 2500s went from 6500# to 6000#. Check your door sticker to be sure. My 2014 has 6500# but I know the newer ones are 6000#.The 2014-2018 Ram 2500's came with both a 6000 RAWR and 6500 RAWR. The 17" wheel/tire option (typically found on a bare bones Tradesman) had a 6000 lb. RAWR. The 18" wheels (steel & alumunium, all trim levels) bumped you up to a 6500 lb. RAWR.
otrfun 07/25/21 11:03am Tow Vehicles
RE: ALDE heating and water heating system. Comments welcome.

Truck Camper Magazine review of the Alde system.
otrfun 07/25/21 07:57am Tech Issues
RE: Great Tow Capacity - Bad Payload Capacity... Increase PL?

So I have a 2016 Ram 2500 Megacab with the 6.7 Cummins. I love it. Great truck. It has plenty of tow capacity for us and our current trailer and possible future 5th Wheel upgrade at 16,936lbs. The problem is that the payload capacity is absolutely horrible at only 1637lbs!! . . . The empty rear axle weight on the Cummins equipped '16 Ram 3500 SRW megacab and '16 Ram 2500 megacab is nearly identical at ~3100 lbs. RAWR on the 2500 is 6500 lbs. (with 18" wheels/tires) and 7000 lbs. on the 3500. Bottom line: you have approx. 3400 lbs. of rear axle capacity remaining on your 2500 (and 3900 lbs. of rear axle capacity remaining on a 3500 SRW). Some folks will tell you don't have this rear axle capacity based on the lower payload and 10k GVWR, but the fact is, based on Ram's own specs, you clearly have 3400 lbs. of rear axle capacity on your '16 Ram 2500 Cummins megacab. Since the Ram 2500 and 3500 SRW use 99% of the same components, it's easy to deduct the lower payload and 10k GVWR on the 2500 is solely based on the need to pigeon-hole a 2500 (in reality a 3500 SRW with slightly derated rear axle) into a class 2b (3/4-ton) rating for marketing purposes only. Nothing more, nothing less. A lot of folks will say you need to upgrade to a 1-ton 3500 SRW. Not sure it's worth your time and money just to gain 500 lbs. of additional rear axle capacity.
otrfun 07/25/21 06:57am Tow Vehicles
RE: Colorado Route 10

We just drove Hwy 10 from La Junta to Walsenburg a few days ago. A very desolate drive for our tastes. YMMV. Be sure to fuel up in La Junta. As byronlj stated, no fuel till you get to Walsenburg.
otrfun 07/19/21 07:40pm Roads and Routes
RE: Central Missouri to Colorado Springs

Highly suggest manually selecting a lower gear (i.e., 3rd or 4th gear) and keeping rpm's between 3.5k and 4.5k (peak torque) when you encounter steeper grades with your 6.2 gasser. Your engine and tranny will thank you.
otrfun 07/19/21 07:21pm Roads and Routes
RE: Size Matters???

. . . We have been researching & looking at 5vers anywhere from 34' to almost 40', GVWR of 13,000 - 16,000 lbs. I am leaning toward the larger units that give us more living space, and my wife is more concerned about safely towing a larger rig & is reluctant to seriously consider them. We anticipate travelling frequently, not full-time, mostly camping & exploring new areas of interest. Most trips would be less than 800 miles one way . . . What constitutes the right size RV/camper is definitely a matter of personal preference. After owning a 33 ft. TT and 33 ft 5r for a number of years, we downsized to a very well-equipped, in-bed truck camper. After two years and 25k mi. we've concluded it was one of the best decisions we've ever made. For us, being able to stop, sightsee, fuel up, make a u-turn, and camp just about anywhere, puts a smile on our face much more often than the his/her recliners, sofa, kitchen island, ceiling fans, and a huge basement with the kitchen sink ever did. Our truck camper has an 80x60 queen-size bed, face-to-face dinette, bathroom/shower, stove/oven/micro, TV/sat, a/c, heat, and a 8cf fridge---all the basic comforts we need. Keeps us more than happy while we're on the road. No, we're not saying the OP should purchase a truck camper. What we are saying is, with the larger rigs you have more overhead while traveling, parking, sightseeing, fueling up, maneuvering and camping. Yes, for a lot of folks these cons pale against the pros of having all the comforts of home while on the road. We get it. For us, though, the exact opposite is true. Bottom line, there's no accounting for taste--lol!
otrfun 07/11/21 07:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: 200 amp-hour Li $799

So reading their reviews the BMS is a complete PoS. No low voltage cutoff, no low temp charge protection, etc. If you're going to monitor it closely or have a smart system upstream that can monitor and protect it then go for it, but as a throw it on the tongue and forget about it solution it's a complete fail, you'll most likely end up roaching the cells about as fast as a lead acid for 3x the cost.Good point. Many of these budget LifePo4’s use sub-par BMS’s with terrible (sometimes non-existent) protection parameters and undersized internal cabling. Not so obvious is the probable use of lower grade cells.
otrfun 07/08/21 06:12am Tech Issues
RE: 200 amp-hour Li $799

This particular $799 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4 is only capable of producing 100a of continuous current. If you have plans to power a microwave or similar device, you may come up a bit short.Oops.Strange as the advert suggests 280amp Max.Yes, 280a. But, for only 5 seconds.
otrfun 07/08/21 05:52am Tech Issues
RE: 200 amp-hour Li $799

This particular $799 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4 is only capable of producing 100a of continuous current. If you have plans to power a microwave or similar device, you may come up a bit short.Oops.FWIW, the $979 ($50 off right now) 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4 "PLUS" version you asked about earlier is rated at 200+a of continuous current. This unit weighs ~6 lbs. more than the $799 (currently $40 off) 200ah unit, but has the same dimensions. Possibly the same cells as the $799 unit. No doubt more capable BMS and cabling.
otrfun 07/07/21 01:50pm Tech Issues
RE: 200 amp-hour Li $799

I recently built 600AH of Lithium batteries for $1200 and my time… probably 10 hours and not that hard.Nice! Source? Configuration? BMS?
otrfun 07/07/21 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: 200 amp-hour Li $799

If you have room?? gofer it... they are big batteries.Yes, they are. Four generic 200ah 3.2v prismatic cells (4s configuration = 200ah at 12.8v) and a 120a-200a BMS (Overkill, Daly, etc.) would take up 1/2 the space of this unit at easily the same or lower price and provide 120a - 200a of continuous current (BMS dependent). This particular $799 200ah Ampere Time LifePo4 is only capable of producing 100a of continuous current. If you have plans to power a microwave or similar device, you may come up a bit short.
otrfun 07/07/21 12:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Daly BMS gone crazy..Update Opinions

Here's some steps we took to get our Daly BMS working much more efficiently that may prove helpful to some. We purchased a 200a Daly Smart BMS 4s about 3 mo. ago (Mar 2021 production date). Discovered very quickly a large number of factory presets must be adjusted and calibrated to enable the Daly to generate much more accurate current/voltage (and SOC) data. Accurate voltage/current data is essential to effectively protect your cells. Unfortunately, the Smart BMS BT app only offers very limited capability in terms of adjustments & calibrations, so Sinowealth (Windows app) must be used. Highly recommend calibrating the voltage. Our Daly was reading almost .1v low. Not good. Hard to believe, but our Daly was also displaying discharge current as charge current and vice versa. The polarity was reversed. This caused dramatic voltage drops and heat (MOSFETS subjected to reverse current). We corrected this by calibrating the Work Current with the proper polarity. This can be done using either a known load value or clamp-on ammeter (calibrations be accomplished using either charge or discharge current). As for SOC, the low-voltage discharge cut-off and high-voltage charge cut-off values determine the zero and 100% SOC set-points and work hand-in-hand with the Voltage Capacity values. Voltage Capacity values for 10-100% SOC must adjusted significantly different from Daly's default values. You *must* charge to 100% SOC and discharge to the low-voltage cut-off at least two times in order for the SOC meter to establish accurate set points. Another critical adjustment to get the SOC and current readouts to display accurately is the proper adjustment of the Dfitter current. This value should be adjusted to the lowest value possible (ideally <=100mv) without incurring random readouts under zero load conditions. A zero load calibration must be accomplished after every dfitter adjustment. If the dfitter and zero load values are not adjusted properly it will effect both the realtime current readout (especially at lower power levels) and skew the SOC readouts significantly over time. Lastly, make absolutely sure when you're doing any current calibrations that you use (-) neg values for discharge and (+) pos values for charge. After quite a bit of trial and error we finally got all these preset values dialed in. Our BT Smart BMS SOC display is now very accurate. Current readouts are accurate down to .1v. Important since erroneous current readings can skew the SOC readout very quickly. We also purposely exceeded the most important voltage, current, and temperature thresholds to verify all BMS protections are operating at their proper values. All is good. If you're willing to take the time to get all these values dialed in, IMO the Daly has the potential to be an awesome BMS that will offer excellent protection and operate at its rated maximum current with minimal heat output. If you're wanting more of a plug & play experience, I would definitely not recommend a Daly--lol!
otrfun 07/07/21 08:14am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic issue

For those that want to track how well their frig is working (realtime data plus accumulated past data), I'd highly recommend checking out one of these Govee Bluetooth temp/humidity sensors for use inside your fridge. It gives you the realtime temp and humidity, plus it stores all your temp/humidity readings for the last year or so. All the historical data is very easy to access using the Govee BT app. Easy to track any long-term cooling trends that may develop. Also very easy to track how your fridge handles cool-downs/recoveries under different ambient conditions. Good bluetooth range. Great price (~$10), too. x1 with what Doug Rainer suggested: install an ARP Fridge Defender. $150-$200 is cheap insurance to automatically protect your $1500-$2000 fridge from overtemp boiler conditions. One of the big side benefits of using the ARP is the ability to view flue temps realtime (temps typically hover around 180-190c; ARP shuts down fridge at 217c). Easy to tell how well your fridge is working (on 120vac, propane, and 12vdc) based on the flue temps. Easy to see when it's time to clean the propane jet/orifice (flue temps drop on propane). Also allows action to be taken before the boiler gets too hot and the ARP is forced to shut down the fridge (temps spike upwards within a few min.).
otrfun 07/06/21 09:51am Tech Issues
RE: lifepo4 and maxxfan

No wall switch, I wired it in directly and also tested it after installing and it worked fine. It just hasn't worked since installing the new high voltage converter and knowing the converter puts out higher voltage I did a web search about voltage and the MaxxFan. What I found was that there were some online who had issues with their fans burning out the circuit board, and MaxxAir told them their fan CB could handle somewhere around 13.6v but any more would fry the CB. @otrfun - So, it sounds like maybe a voltage regulator would be a good idea between the converter and the camper (not between converter/charger and battery though) due to the higher voltage the single stage PD unit puts out? I do disconnect the battery when running on shore power/converter because I agree with what you are saying about constantly subjecting the battery to the high voltage bulk charge (since I read on the BB site they say not to leave their battery subjected to the bulk rate for extended periods). I did a lot of reading up on the subject before finally deciding to go with a converter that the battery maker recommended. I am planning to only use this converter to charge the battery when it gets low. I am installing two battery monitors also, one to monitor discharge and one to monitor charge rate and levels. I am honestly brand new to LiFePO4 technology and there is so much conflicting info out there it gets confusing. Thank you all for the help and info.There are a lot of 12vdc voltage regulators on Amazon if you elect to go that route. Make sure you purchase one that can handle the appropriate current. I believe the MaxxAir fans draw approx. 3-4a (on high). First time hearing that MaxxAir's have a max voltage rating of 13.6v. We used to own a 5th wheel toy hauler with two MaxxAir MaxFans. Regularly subjected them to 14.4v while bulk charging our lead-acid batteries and never had a problem. That being said, I suppose the MaxxAir's could be operating right on the edge at 14.4v. Could be possible the additional .2v a 14.6v converter produces could be pushing them over the edge, but who knows. Ref your purchase of a single-stage lithium converter, you're not alone. We followed the same recommendations you did and purchased a single-stage, 14.6v Progressive Dynamic lithium converter (later sold it on eBay). According to BB, as long as you don't leave a single-stage 14.6v converter connected to a fully-charged BB LifePo4 for more than a week or so at a time, you should have no issues. Yes, manually turning a single-stage 14.6v converter on only when you actively need to charge will protect your BB LifePo4 from overcharging. However, for us, operating that way is just too awkward. We prefer the option of leaving a 2-3 stage converter on 24/7 and not worrying about it.
otrfun 07/05/21 03:14pm Tech Issues
RE: lifepo4 and maxxfan

. . . If it is not too late you might want to return that one for their two-stage version. The original one-stage like you got was a mistake, where they thought an LFP could float on 14.x for an extended time, or else they expected you to not float the LFP at all . . . Agree. After doing at least 15-20 heavy discharge cycles with our LifePo4 battery pack using a standard, 3-stage, lead-cell 13.2v/13.6v/14.4v converter, I'm come to the conclusion there's very little to no advantage to using a one or two stage 14.6v dedicated lithium converter (we sold ours). Yes, a 14.6v charge voltage will charge a LifePo4 to 100%. 14.4v will only charge a LifePo4 to ~99% SOC. However . . . lifePo4's don't do well being floated at (or stored with) a high state of charge for long periods of time like a lead-cell battery. IMO there's little to be gained jumping through hoops (purchasing a 14.6v lithium converter) to get that last 1% SOC. If ah capacity is a concern, why not simply discharge 1% lower. IMO, a single-stage 14.6v lithium converter is far from an ideal choice. It subjects the LifePo4 and all the DC components in the camper to a 14.6v (bulk charge) 24/7/365. IMO a 2-stage or 3-stage converter/charger (of any kind) is a better choice. It will spend the majority of its time in a lower voltage 13.2v/13.6v float/absorption mode---a good thing. Zero chance of overcharging a LifePo4, plus the DC components in your camper won't be forced to operate on the upper end of their voltage range 24/7.
otrfun 07/04/21 08:37am Tech Issues
RE: Inverter Microwave - Current Draw vs. Power Setting

Just did a test on my inverter mic and at full power it draws 16 amps. At 50% power it draws 8 amps. Tested with a Kill A WATT meter.Thank you for taking the time to do this test, Boondocker! Wanted to get a confirmation that there was a corresponding reduction in current when the power level was reduced. My wife prefers the way an inverter microwave cooks and defrosts, so looking to replace the unit in our camper. The unit we were looking at draws a bit more current than I'd like (at 100%). Just wanted to make sure we could reduce the power/current level to accommodate our inverter if need be. Thanks again.
otrfun 07/02/21 02:04pm Tech Issues
Inverter Microwave - Current Draw vs. Power Setting

Anyone checked the current draw of their inverter microwave at a given power setting? Does a power setting of, say 50%, also drop the current draw approx. 50%? Thanks!
otrfun 07/02/21 10:06am Tech Issues
RE: 2022 Toyota Tundra Reveal

Toyota managed to keep the 5.7 (and same drivetrain) in production 14 years (2007-2021) without any dramatic drop in sales. Allowed Toyota to squeeze max profit per unit due to dramatically lower R&D and production costs. Ford introduced the very successful, popular 3.5 Ecoboost in 2011. After 11 years. Toyota finally decides to jump on-board with their own twin-turbo V6 for the 2022 Tundra. It would appear folks don't buy Tundras for their latest technology or raw powertrain performance. So what keeps 'em competitive?
otrfun 07/02/21 09:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: Renogy DC-DC Test Results-UPDATE 4 (Better!)

oops. Wrong post. Please delete.
otrfun 07/02/21 07:29am Tech Issues
RE: New Dish Wally installation

. . . do not use splitters the sat signal does not like them . . . DC is needed to operate most satellite roof units. Typically the DC is supplied to the roof unit via the coax cable (along with the RF signal). If you use any splitters or RF switching devices between the receiver and roof unit that happen to have a DC blocking component, the roof unit won't operate.
otrfun 07/01/21 09:35am Tech Issues
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