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 > Your search for posts made by 'pnichols' found 309 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Locking Fuel Door (E450 Chassis)

A guess the above concern is one more reason why we "travel like a turtle" via traveliing in a small Class C that is our home right with us all the time and everywhere. Wow ... drilling a hole in a gas tank to steal gas has got to be an act of dangerous desperation.
pnichols 04/17/21 11:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

I cut the cord years ago. No cable. Couldn't justify the high cost cable companies charge. Just Wifi. Anything I can access or store on my laptop or NAS I can stream to TV. I do have a roof antenna for local broadcasts but don't watch them very often. I'm about 50 miles from broadcast antennas and pick up about 50 channels although most are in Spanish. I do subscribe to Netflix, Sling and Amazon Prime plus a ton of freebie channels thru Roku. Not sure what I'll do if prices go way up for those. How do you digitally record movies at home off Netflix, Amazon Prime, and free Roku channels so that you can take a stick full of them with you on RV trips to play back and watch on a monitor/TV when camping?
pnichols 04/16/21 10:30am Technology Corner
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

FWIW, I have around 30 full length movies stored on my smartphone and I have a USB-C to HDMI adapter so as to be able to connect the smartphone to a monitor or TV screen via an HDMI cable ... for use on our home big screen or in the RV. (I don't waste a good movie by trying to watch it on a dinky smartphone screen.)
pnichols 04/14/21 12:49pm Technology Corner
RE: Overhang construction

My Itasca has corner seams on the cabover exterior sidewalls and the cabover exterior underside seams, which I caulk periodically. The main joint between the top of the cabover where it joins the fiberglass coach roof is not a typical joint at all - as the top edge of the exterior cabover wall material is tucked up underneath a lip portion of the roof that extends past the top edge of the exterior cabover wall material by around 3 inches - then this whole area is covered by a fiberglass cap that could/should be kept caulked or Eternabonded (just like with the one piece fiberglass cabover front caps where they join the coach roof). The single piece coach fiberglass roof of our Itasca has about a 3" rolled over edge all along the sides - with the top edges of the two coach sidewalls tucked up underneath the rolled-over edge - for absolute blockage of water intrusion into the coach sidewalls vertically along the tops of the sidewalls. Unfortunately I do have a forward facing cabover window - which had to be replaced, once, 2500 mi. from home when a rock from an approaching truck broke the glass - which was not safety glass - so it shattered into more or less a million pieces, which fell down on top of us while we were driving. "NOW" - I have a special plastic overlay coating on the glass of the forward facing window so as to maybe protect it a bit from rocks! (BTW, I tried applying 3" Eternabond all around the cabover forward facing window frame, but it didn't work because Eternabond doesn't seem to bond to glass.) By the way ... I wonder how much cabover leaking is actually due to failed seals of the cabover running lights ... instead of the forward facing window frame seals?
pnichols 04/14/21 12:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

I think et left the building. Yep, possibly ... for some folks enough knowledge is enough, and for others all the knowledge they can get is their goal. :C
pnichols 04/13/21 12:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Overhang construction

Below is a link to the Winnebago brochure for our 2005 Itasca Class C. The last page shows the layout of the internal aluminum framing within the coach walls. Looking closely to see the aluminum framing of the cab overhead, I do not see how the cab overhead structure is going to move up or down, or left or right ... in any motions separate to those of the coach's main living area structure. Hence, how is the cab overhead going to get jostled around any more, or differently, than the whole coach when traveling? https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Images/Winnebago/brochures/2005/05-Spirit-bro.pdf (However, a forward facing cabover window is really going to get blasted by water when traveling in a rain storm - along with the cabover clearance lights!)
pnichols 04/13/21 11:29am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

Hmmmm ... I wonder on Class C rigs if mechanics can merely remove the front wheels and then remove the metal liner on the engine side of the either wheel well (I think this sheet metal liner is bolted in/on) to easily get at the sides of the engine? I had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on our Class C's V10 engine and sure wish I'd asked the mechanic if the above is how he got access to those V10 manifold bolts.
pnichols 04/13/21 10:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: DVD and Blu Ray being discontinued?

You download movies to your tablet or laptop. Or, you can even download them to Google Play Hmmm ... how do I download Netflix, or Acorn, or Britbox, or Xfinity movies unto my laptop??? BTW, I still own and occasionally use a VHS player attached to our big screen at home. VHS images get converted to 4K when we do this. The player would suck a lot of power for RV use, however. Are we assuming that the Internet will never suffer a wide area failure? I predict that day will come, and when it does - a lot us drycamping in our bug-out RVs will wish we had brought along plenty of DVD movies and a player for them. :)
pnichols 04/11/21 10:16pm Technology Corner
RE: Boondocking Resources - Tips, Tricks, and Information

Not sure if this tip has been mentioned before, but here it is: if you are boondocked in a really remote spot, take a GPS waypoint in case you decide to go to town and then return to your campsite after dark. Don't ask me how I figured this out. Dan ... I assume you use Avenza! ;) (I would use my good old Garmin nuvi 3550LM to do the same thing.) BTW, when we boondock there's no going into town allowed, unless it's an emergency - in which case we'd hit the SOS button on our inReach Mini. We only go to a boondock spot fully stocked up just as if we were on an expedition in Outer Mongolia (kindof :B).
pnichols 04/10/21 10:11pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

Hi there- Any thoughts or comments on 2015 Thor Majestic 23a please? Were they made specifically for Cruise America? They seem to differ from 23U. How do they drive on dirt roads? We are looking at one for sale by a local rental company. 111,000 miles. Thanks for any input! We don't have a Thor Class C. Ours is 24 foot Itasca (made by Winnebago) Class C that we take slowly and carefully on dirt roads. Remember that unlike much lighter 4X4 "offroad" vehicles, a Class C has way better dry surface traction on it's rear drive tires due to the raw weight back there. Of course on wet/slippery road surfaces, both a Class C and 4X4 vehicles can slip and slide around, plus get buried up to their axles. We have installed larger than stock diameter tires on our Class C in order to provide more ground clearance on dirt roads. We cross road washout areas as much as possible at an angle in order to prevent rear tail dragging. It's easy to keep the interior clean when on dirt roads: Keep the cab heating/cooling system set to "interior" air flow so only inside air is recirculated - with no outside air being drawn in. Keep all windows and roof vents closed - except for one roof vent with a reversible vent fan in it. Set this fan to blow in on low speed. This sets up and maintains a slight pressure in the coach interior so that no road dust can enter any small holes and cracks anywhere - this works like a champ because (nearly) no outside air is actually brought in because everything is closed up. (What little air is actually brought in due to leakage out holes and cracks is clean air from up high above the roof.) The fan is merely "trying" to force air in, so what results is the maintaining of a slight amount of air pressure in the interior at all times.
pnichols 04/09/21 12:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

are there any class C with a truck front, not a van front? Also, what about Sprinter based class C? Do these have easy engine access? Here is my dream go-anywhere Class C (if the DW and myself were a bit younger) that they will build for you starting out with a one-ton 4X4 Ford/Chevy/Ram pickup truck chassis: https://www.tigervehicles.com/tiger-models/
pnichols 04/07/21 03:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: new Ford 7.3 gas with 3.55 axle ratio, does it work?

Highway 50 is in colder areas of NV. Try to make Baker 17 miles long grade at common 120F and if you pass, you are good to go anywhere. Yep ... how right you are! If your truck can't move it's whatever load up long haul grades in August in the U.S. West with your cab air on full blast and engine temp needle not budging ... then you need something better. So far after 15 years of ownership, the V10 E450 pulling our 12K lb. MH all over the West in any month hasn't even blinked. HOWEVER - I haven't tried Old Priest Grade with it, yet. :B
pnichols 04/06/21 10:52am Truck Campers
RE: 7.3 Ford vs 6.0 Chevy cockpit room

I really do not know why I found so much of a difference. The 4500 seems to have a softer ride. I would think that would cause more push from big rigs to be felt. That does not happen. I know the Ford road handling was significantly improved by going to +5 castor. What I do know is the stock Chevy with now 48kmi on the clock drives better than the Ford I had with 25kmi on the clock. I really enjoy not having to have both hands on the wheel all the time. I smile every time if I notice that the engine wanted a lower gear on a hill. It is so quiet compared to the Ford. I am a life long Ford guy. Heck I even put up with the infamous early 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel for 100kmi. After driving the 4500 and my mechanic saying the Chevy 6.0 was a solid motor. I could not pass up the floorplan. Yes, this camper is a bit heavier than the last one. I really do not think that is making the difference. If three or even five more of "me" sitting in the center of a truck made it better in cross winds. I would say the truck has a design flaw. I was finally happy with the Ford chassis until I drove the Chevy. I hope this was helpful. I found this thread very helpful. I know from driving my old Class A on a Chevy chassis for 100k miles I drive it with one hand like a car even when trucks pass by. My belief is if you can get each tire to carry the same load and a good alignment the MH should ride well. Each of my ties carry the same load within a 100 lbs or so. Many complain about a white knuckle ride on these old chassis. If you spend any time on the Class A forum you can now see more complaints with the F53 ford chassis and how bad it rides without suspension mods. What I have been trying to figure out is how do you find the actual weight distribution from front to rear of these small class C's. Not on the MFG web sites or door stickers. I called Coachman and asked a tech not a salesmen and he had no idea. I think when you have a 158 in WB the weight distribution front to rear become more important. Does anyone know how to get this info besides asking forum members if the weighed their MH front and back and side to side? You could do what we did ... pull off at a truck scales spot. Park it with the front wheels on the scales and get the reading. Then do the same with the rear wheels on the scales and get the reading. :) Phil what I am trying to do is to determine what the weight distribution before I purchase the MH afterwards is too late. Or are you saying before you by it find a scale nearby on your test drive? Sorry ... use of truck scales is what we did AFTER we had owned our rig for awhile. But I guess maybe it might be possible to work out some way to quickly use a truck scales on some type of test drive before you buy.
pnichols 04/02/21 11:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: new Ford 7.3 gas with 3.55 axle ratio, does it work?

https://youtu.be/le_CdRGAmvg Video of the 7.3 with 3.55 gears towing 24K through the Rockies. Personally, I have a deep seated emotional objection to driving a big block motor down the road at 4,500-5,000 rpm..........moped maybe, big block, nope. Me too ... that's why I cruise our MH at 58-60 MPH and at ~2200 RPM using it's 4:56 differential behind a 6.8L V10 gasser! ;)
pnichols 04/02/21 07:21pm Truck Campers
RE: 7.3 Ford vs 6.0 Chevy cockpit room

I really do not know why I found so much of a difference. The 4500 seems to have a softer ride. I would think that would cause more push from big rigs to be felt. That does not happen. I know the Ford road handling was significantly improved by going to +5 castor. What I do know is the stock Chevy with now 48kmi on the clock drives better than the Ford I had with 25kmi on the clock. I really enjoy not having to have both hands on the wheel all the time. I smile every time if I notice that the engine wanted a lower gear on a hill. It is so quiet compared to the Ford. I am a life long Ford guy. Heck I even put up with the infamous early 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel for 100kmi. After driving the 4500 and my mechanic saying the Chevy 6.0 was a solid motor. I could not pass up the floorplan. Yes, this camper is a bit heavier than the last one. I really do not think that is making the difference. If three or even five more of "me" sitting in the center of a truck made it better in cross winds. I would say the truck has a design flaw. I was finally happy with the Ford chassis until I drove the Chevy. I hope this was helpful. I found this thread very helpful. I know from driving my old Class A on a Chevy chassis for 100k miles I drive it with one hand like a car even when trucks pass by. My belief is if you can get each tire to carry the same load and a good alignment the MH should ride well. Each of my ties carry the same load within a 100 lbs or so. Many complain about a white knuckle ride on these old chassis. If you spend any time on the Class A forum you can now see more complaints with the F53 ford chassis and how bad it rides without suspension mods. What I have been trying to figure out is how do you find the actual weight distribution from front to rear of these small class C's. Not on the MFG web sites or door stickers. I called Coachman and asked a tech not a salesmen and he had no idea. I think when you have a 158 in WB the weight distribution front to rear become more important. Does anyone know how to get this info besides asking forum members if the weighed their MH front and back and side to side? You could do what we did ... pull off at a truck scales spot. Park it with the front wheels on the scales and get the reading. Then do the same with the rear wheels on the scales and get the reading. :)
pnichols 04/02/21 12:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery & electrical questions

DrewE's post above is why I have this boondock camping non-sun-dependent Plan C: If for some completely unforeseen and unfortunate reason both the coach battery bank and chassis battery should be low at the same time, we carry along a small portable generator that is pull started and can be used via a small stand-alone charger to charge coach and/or chassis batteries. Being stranded way out there in a MH with no tow vehicle would be no fun. I've never yet experienced it, but don't have to in order to not want to.
pnichols 03/28/21 06:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: DFW Class C Sevice

We are looking to get our first Ford Class C and have heard it is sometimes hard to find Ford dealers to do warranty work on motorhomes. We are in Arlington and would appreciate any advice on nearby Ford dealers who service motorhomes . Thanks I use mobile mechanics who come to my house to work on my Class C motorhome. One mechanic can fix anything on the coach and another mechanic can do an awful lot on the Ford E450 chassis right there in my yard. Their prices are reasonable and of course they come on the scheduled day and get the job done.
pnichols 03/28/21 04:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Boondocking in the sand -- how soft is too soft??

Sand driving...know your limitations and stop before you get in over your head. I have taken a 4x4 driving course, thank you US National Parks Service, and the lesson to be learned...get out and go look...don't just drive into something hoping for the best. I read you are towing a trailer...if you are going to be driving thru a creek bed..a dry river course? Be aware of the angle of approach and exit. Will your trailer tongue get caught going down or the back of the truck get hung up, going up/out. Best tool is a shovel. More than one. And a proper weight rated tow line for the person that comes to help, but doesn't have one. Just a note...if a person has duallies, unless they have spacers, they do not air down. Can't let those tires rub or pick up rocks that will tear the tires to shreds. And, not every tire set-up allows for spacers...mine, for instance. a 99 E350. Gary Haupt Good advice Gary! Regarding duallies, that's one reason I have tires on my Class C (215 size instead of 225 size) that are slighty narrower - to help reduce the chances of rocks wedging in between or sidewall rubbing on the rear duals without having to use spacers. (The other reason I use them is that the 215's are taller tires, which provides more ground clearance all around.)
pnichols 03/28/21 12:53pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Boondocking in the sand -- how soft is too soft??

.
pnichols 03/28/21 12:40pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Boondocking in the sand -- how soft is too soft??

Here's a tip I read about years ago - for maximum traction for those of you who have a 2WD drive motorhome or tow vehicle with a regular differential (one that doesn't lock up): In poor traction situations use 2nd gear to better keep both rear wheels pulling. This prevents or greatly reduces - the tendency for one wheel to stop spinning while the other wheel gets all the axle torque. I starting using this trick in my PU when going up our steep driveway in wet weather. It indeed does help keep one rear wheel from spinning with the other doing nothing. It's the application of overly strong driveshaft torque from the engine that switches a standard differential into allocating torque to only one wheel. A low gear plus heavy gas pedal application triggers this. Use of 2nd gear plus a gentle throttle helps keep both wheels engaged and pulling via a standard differential. I'm guessing that this technique may also help in soft sand situations.
pnichols 03/28/21 12:33pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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