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 > Your search for posts made by 'rexlion' found 207 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Towing with 4cyl Sorento?

You can do it, but if you have never towed before, be aware of a couple of things. If the Sedona has an automatic with overdrive, you should lock out the overdrive. An auto that has to hunt back and forth for the right gear all the time will cause the converter in the transmission to unlock and allow slippage, which creates heat, and heat kills trannys. Going down a mountain grade, you must go as slowly as you went up the other side. Shift down to hold the rig back, using brakes sparingly for brief bursts. If you ride your brakes too much they'll overheat and give out, and you'll be a runaway rig. If you decide you want to upgrade to trailer brakes, look under the trailer behind the wheel. If you see a square metal plate with probably 4 holes at the corners, that's a mounting plate for brakes; add the brake kit, wiring on tug and trailer, and you're set. If there's no backer plate for the brakes to mount, you'd need a new axle with the plates and brakes. I once long ago towed a U-Haul 'egg' camper trailer with a 4 cyl Dodge Omni on a 2000 mile vacation from MI to CO and back. 90 HP didn't do so well, and I only drove 50 mph or less most of the time. But we had a nice vacation (other than some issues with the trailer's furnace and leaking front window). Not saying I'd do it that way again; now I'd want a few more horses (which you have double) and trailer brakes.
rexlion 07/14/20 06:59pm Towing
RE: Flaming Gorge Jug Hollow Boondocking

Looks okay, I guess, but I'd much rather have some big pine trees overhead. Thanks for the pic.
rexlion 07/13/20 08:32pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Toyota fake 3/4 ton spotted, overheated

Maybe the rear axle is as strong as a 3/4 ton, and the drive train, and let's suppose the suspension is strong enough also. But apparently the cooling system isn't! :D
rexlion 07/13/20 08:30pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2019 Colorado Diesel

My buddy has a Colorado diesel. Uses it as a work truck and hauls a single axle enclosed utility trailer. He took it once for a work trip from Colorado to Texas. On relatively flat ground, running into a decent head wind, he wasn’t able to maintain 65 MPH. After a couple years with it he will be selling and buying an F150. I think that is a great truck for most applications. Towing an RV just isn’t one of them due to the lack of horsepower. That surprises me. The HP and torque numbers look good enough for a small cargo or TT. Wow.
rexlion 07/13/20 10:51am Tow Vehicles
RE: Getting ready to Hit the Road----finally retired

You really will have to try out a few different types of camping places to see what you like. RV resorts often have amenities (for example: laundry room, game room, organized activities) and full hookups, and charge accordingly; to me they feel like small cities of RVs, and I camp to get away from the city! State parks vary from state to state, and range from FHU to no hookups. Corps of Engineers (COE) CGs will usually be near water, so they tend to have beaches, boat launches, and large, well-kept sites (fees are 1/2 off with a recreation passport, and in another month I'll turn 62 and apply for my $80 lifetime card). State and national forest CGs are generally rustic with no hookups, usually tucked away in the woods and sometimes on a small lake, and tend to have shorter sites that might not fit a large RV (which is why I prefer towing a trailer shorter than 20', so I can fit into these more remote places). Then you have the boondocking, where you just find some public land that allows dispersed camping and use a nimble rig (like a 4WD truck topped with a camper) to get in and stay a while, far from civilization where you might not see another living person the whole time you're there.
rexlion 07/13/20 10:41am Travel Trailers
RE: Motel 6 leaves a Porch Light on but ...

Leaving the porch light on, for some people, might be from the habit of keeping a light on outside their door at home for security reasons. The thinking is that a burglar will not want to be seen (by neighbors or a passing cop car) fiddling with the doorknob, and a peeping tom won't want to be seen peeking into a window. My home has outdoor lights at night for this reason. Some campers, more likely newbie ones, don't realize that light pollution is most unwelcome when RVs are parked close together. A word spoken in kindness to 'enlighten' them will often result in a 'de-light-ful' result. ;)
rexlion 07/13/20 10:09am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Trip report: The Tioga Area of Yosemite

It turns out that the blower motor was really toast -- a connector plug had shorted out, burning the components. The mechanic showed me the bad motor -- melted plastic, scorch marks, very dramatic. He said that this sometimes happens with vehicles that have done a lot of rough off-roading, because of the vibration.But...but...it's a Toyota! They aren't supposed to do that! ;)
rexlion 07/08/20 01:01pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: PSA ---- MORE Harbor Freight RECALL--PLEASE READ

Marcus could take notes....
rexlion 07/07/20 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: US 95 in Idaho, early July

To paraphrase an old movie, "These aren't the lanes you're looking for." Idaho is so lazy; they've really been letting things slide lately. Too much rock & roll. That mountain peak just got its rocks off. That's the way the boulder bounces!
rexlion 07/05/20 03:50pm Roads and Routes
RE: RV Shopping

No brand advice from me, but dealer advice: stay far away from Camping World. My buddy just today told me his horror story. :( I wish I'd known when he was shopping for a 5th wheel, because I would have warned him too!
rexlion 07/05/20 03:43pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Conversation with Goodyear about Marathon tires

If GY doesn'trecognize the DOT numbers, I wonder if your tires are not genuine Goodyear tires (fakes, knockoffs)? Those far east factories are known to do that with many items. Stick a brand name on a product that doesn't meet the brand's specs, sell it for more money than it's worth, buyer gets the brown end of the stick.
rexlion 06/30/20 01:17pm Towing
RE: Flashlights

I agree that most of the lower-cost, generic flashlights (of which there are tons on the internet shopping sites) greatly exaggerate their output. A good brand will specify "ANSI lumens" which means that model of light has been tested in a calibrated light sphere for actual output. Another thing about cheap generics is that they tend to use the harsher blueish LEDs, 6000 degrees Kelvin or even higher (if they don't say the color temp, figure it's blue). I like to get lights that have color temps anywhere from 2700K (similar to incandescent bulbs) to no higher than 5000K (neutral white). A few makers (like Zebralight) even offer "high CRI" (color rendering index) LEDs, which show colors of illuminated objects most faithfully and pretty consistent with the full spectrum of sunlight. A good light will also be more shock resistant, usually, than a budget variety light. If someone wants just simple on-off and no modes, they won't like any of the lights I like. The Sofirn SP36, for example, will ramp continuously from about 1 lumen to 5000 lumens; it remembers the last setting the next time you turn it on; it has shortcuts (hold the button down for low, or double-click for high), flashing modes, electronic lockout, battery state of charge readout, and more. The commonly used settings are easy to remember, but for anything fancy I have to refresh my memory with the manual!
rexlion 06/30/20 01:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Flashlights

I am a flashaholic. I have dozens of flashlights, and they're not the cheap two-buck variety either. I've always liked good, bright lights. One of my favorites is the Sofirn Sp36. 5000 lumens (no exaggeration), mostly floody but it will still punch out a good distance. Good, solid build. You can recharge the 3 lithium batteries right in the flashlight via a USB cord, and the batteries are easily replaceable if they ever go bad. $67 on Amazon. I love having a flashlight that's brighter than my vehicle's headlamps! :) If you prefer something that takes AA batteries, the Nitecore EA42 puts out 1800 lumens on 4 AA cells. It's $70. They make less powerful lights for lower prices, if you don't need that much. Other brands I've had good luck with are Fenix, Zebralight, and Eagletac. I think you can find good headlamps in almost any of the above brands, too. The Zebralight headlamps are a right-angle flashlight in a headband rig, and you can take it out of the headband very easily to use as a handheld. I do have a 4D Maglite with a LED drop-in, but honestly it's so much heavier and more dim than my other stuff, the Maglite just sits in a corner. For something tiny, inexpensive, and always at hand, look at a keychain AAA light. Either the Sofirn C01s or the Lumintop EDC01 will give you around 100 lumens; twist the head to turn on, loosen to turn off, or a quick loosen-tighten changes brightness (no switch to go bad, ever). Hard to beat for $10.
rexlion 06/29/20 10:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: Too Much A Novice To Ask This On Electronics forum

To have any hope of good sound sync, you need BT transmitters and receivers that support APTX-LL (Low Latency). A couple of these could do it (I bought one and it works): Amazon low latency unit
rexlion 06/28/20 10:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Recommended Products For Restoring Fiberglass Shell

+1 on the Zep. It shines up fiberglass like new and it lasts.
rexlion 06/28/20 10:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: 2019 Dodge Durango with tow package? am I making a mistake?

Suppose you look at a bunkhouse TT under 4500 lb dry (advertised dry weight) it will probably wind up weighing closer to 5000 lb dry with real world options plus LP tanks and battery. Then add your cargo and maybe a little bit of water (not much!), and you're around 5500 lbs, maybe more. That's about 600-700 lbs on the hitch, if it's all balanced correctly. Then add almost 100 lbs of the weight distributing hitch with some sway control. Nope, not enough payload. There are a few super-light TTs that could work, but those tend to be single axle, small, low cargo capacity units. For example, KZ Sportsmen Classic 180BH. You might wind up with a real world hitch weight of 500 lbs or less.
rexlion 06/27/20 09:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: towing with Subaru Ascent

I can't see any reason why a sway bar would be bad. I think you have to keep in mind that rain (wet) will reduce the amount of friction supplied by the bar. And I hear that they have to be loosened before backing up sharply or the bar can get bent. Of course, the best protection against sway is to make sure you have at least 10% (but no more than 15% generally) of total trailer weight on the tongue; in your case you probably want 350 to 450 lbs actual hitch weight when loaded for camping. (If the fresh water tank is under the front bed, be careful! Water is 8.3 lbs/gallon.) How long is the trailer? I'm guessing 20'? yes, it is 20'. what do you mean watch out? fresh water tank is under the bed, which is at front of trailer. what i am reading is cargo weight should be forward, if at back will cause more sway.What I mean to watch out for is too much hitch weight. If you fill a front tank with 35 gallons of water, that's 290 lbs; half or maybe more than half of that weight will be on the hitch, depending on exact tank location in relation to the axles. That's how I bent a spring. If you feel a slight wiggle of the trailer, it's not a big deal. But if it turns into a larger, repeating oscillation ("sway") here's how to handle it: 1. Do not brake! Trailer may jackknife immediately! 2. Use the trailer brake controller lever to apply trailer brakes ONLY. This should bring the trailer back into line. 3. Once the trailer is no longer oscillating, slow down nice and easy, then at first opportunity stop and look for possible cause of the sway. Check hitch weight, coupler, tire condition, look for broken welds on trailer suspension. I tow 16'-17' trailers all the time on the ball, no sway bar or anti-sway hitch. And they are well-behaved. But when I was young I towed a 4x8 open utility trailer quite often, and one day I loaded it improperly (negative hitch weight) so after a 3 hour drive it suddenly swayed violently when I slowed down. It scared the pants off me! Lesson learned. I've also had a 23' TT and even with plenty of hitch weight it felt very squirrelly with a short wheelbase tow vehicle (which the Ascent is, too). Honestly, my rule of thumb is to use sway control of some type for 20' and longer trailers. An arbitrary number based on my personal experience. Sway bars are cheap insurance (Harbor Freight has 'em for less than $30, I think), so add the balls for either end and enjoy peace of mind. Be sure to air up all tires to max sidewall pressure! Sidewall squirm can contribute to trailer wiggling and eventual sway. Some folks switch to a lower sidewall profile or to an LT tire (stiffer sidewalls). I think you have a fairly short rear overhang on the Ascent, which is helpful; some folks who are having a stability problem will go so far as to drill an extra hole on the receiver to shorten the effective ball mount length. Also keep in mind that wiggling and sway chances increase exponentially (not proportionally) as speed increases. And chances increase when going downhill, around curves, or (worst) going fast downhill AND around a curve. Get a good brake controller and get it set properly. A proportional controller like Tekonsha Prodigy (I have P3) will be smoother stopping than a time based controller, but both work. To set it, roll forward 10-15 mph on level pavement and apply TT brakes via the controller lever; they should slowly bring the rig to a halt, without locking up and skidding a tire. Check and readjust this at start of each trip and occasionally during the trip, because the TT brakes will change (a little rust after sitting a long time, warmer/cooler brakes, etc). Then if you do encounter sway you will be ready to counteract it the best way (not saying it's foolproof, no guarantees, but it's the best way short of mechanical sway control between tug and trailer). I would not put a ton of faith in the vehicle stability control. Too many variables in real life.
rexlion 06/27/20 09:15am Tow Vehicles
RE: Any good/cheap electric razor for camping?

Anyone have any ideas? Under $50 dollars if possible. Nearly ANY razor will work if you use it regularly, but during our recent "lockdown" I grew a beard for about 3 months. When I got to hating it enough, I decided to shave it off. My nearly-every-day razor is one of the 3 rotary head jobs and would do NOTHING towards getting rid of inch long hairs. I bought THIS from Amazon. It is the one that is seen on TV for $29.95. It is WONDERFUL!!! It takes off the growth down to about a 1-2 days length where my 3-head makes short work of it. It USB charges fast and I have used it 3-4 times and have not recharged it yet. Let it grow while you are gone and use THIS to take it off when you get back. I HIGHLY recommend it. Amazon.com also has a bunch of Electric Razors in the $25 range. TimI looked at those just a few days ago. Yep, if a person wants to just take it down to short stubble (5:00 shadow) those Micro Touch Solos look like the way to go. If you want to shave every day and keep the face smooth, the one I've had and been using for about a dozen years is the Panasonic ES4815P-S twin foil shaver. It runs on 2 AA cells (I recommend a pair of L91 "Energizer Advanced Lithium" because they store well, maintain good voltage, and rarely leak). About $37 on Amazon. Panasonic It isn't as good as my Braun with series 5 cutter/foil (on a series 8 shaver, lol) and will tend to miss a few hairs around the back of my jaw, but then I don't think any such travel shaver will be as good as a regular one.
rexlion 06/26/20 06:55pm RV Lifestyle
RE: towing with Subaru Ascent

I can't see any reason why a sway bar would be bad. I think you have to keep in mind that rain (wet) will reduce the amount of friction supplied by the bar. And I hear that they have to be loosened before backing up sharply or the bar can get bent. Of course, the best protection against sway is to make sure you have at least 10% (but no more than 15% generally) of total trailer weight on the tongue; in your case you probably want 350 to 450 lbs actual hitch weight when loaded for camping. (If the fresh water tank is under the front bed, be careful! Water is 8.3 lbs/gallon.) How long is the trailer? I'm guessing 20'?
rexlion 06/26/20 11:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing with a Ford Explorer

I'm the type who would find out exactly what my vehicle lacked versus the ones with tow package, and add the components which are needed to protect the drive train. That said, with the non-turbo 3.5L I'd be hesitant to tow anything with a frontal area greater than 7' wide by about 100" high or over 3500 lbs dry. And if I were pushing those limits, I'd keep my speed at 60 mph or less and lock out overdrive. About the weight... 3500 lbs dry is likely to be 4200-4500 lbs when loaded. Even more critical is the hitch weight, which your vehicle can probably only handle 500 lbs and this is very easy to exceed. I once had a 23' Rockwood of (IIRC) about 3400 lbs dry and 380 dry hitch weight. But the fresh water tank was up front. I bent a rear spring on my 2000 Mountaineer (rated for 6000/600). You'll want to get a scale (Sherline makes a good one) and weigh the hitch before starting out. BTW, for safety you always want at least 10% of the total TT weight on the hitch for proper handling.
rexlion 06/25/20 11:21pm Towing
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