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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 183 matches.

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RE: Driver side “old” windshield into a different coach

I believe you will find a number for the windshield in one of the corners. If they are the same on both windshields, then they should be interchangeable. Then all you have to do is find someone to change it near where you are. Just keep contacting windshield replacement services until you find one.
rgatijnet1 05/04/21 01:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fish bowl cooling class A

I have a Monaco gasser but for what it is worth, your problem may be the lack of insulation above your cockpit. On my unit I had to remove the front cabinets because of another issue. What I found was that they had put in fiberglass insulation that had shifted and compressed. I had areas where the front cap actually had no insulation covering it at all. I removed all of the fiberglass insulation and replaced it with spray on closed cell foam that I bought on eBay. This is a two part foam that expands when it sticks to the surface. This made a huge improvement in keeping the temperature down in the front of the coach. I also made sure that the roof above the cockpit was painted white. You might see if you can see behind your overhead cabinets and check the condition of the fiberglass insulation.
rgatijnet1 05/03/21 11:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fish bowl cooling class A

Try a portable AC unit that is vented to the outside and directing air right in to the cockpit, in addition to your two roof top AC units.
rgatijnet1 05/03/21 10:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Banks Performance Module

Do a Google search of "2002 Cummins 8.3L calibration module" and there are several that pop up.
rgatijnet1 05/02/21 02:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacement Window Slide Lock

They sell "sex bolts" on Amazon which can be used to replace some rivets and look better than a shoulder bolt and nut.
rgatijnet1 04/30/21 01:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacement Window Slide Lock

Contact these people. I'm sure they will have what you need. RV Salvage
rgatijnet1 04/30/21 11:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Operating BlueOx Tru Center

The factory uses measurements to try to adjust for the Tru-Center neutral setting. My method takes in to consideration the vehicle's wheel alignment, RV loading, tire pressure, etc. to find the neutral setting when loaded for travel and on the highway.
rgatijnet1 04/26/21 12:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Operating BlueOx Tru Center

From manual Operating Instructions With these TruCenter™ models, (TC35270 & TC35160) the operator has the ability to adjust the length or center point of the TruCenter™ unit. If the vehicle tends to pull to one side, the operator needs to push the TruCenter™ switch and hold it in while turning the steering wheel in the direction that makes the vehicle follow a straight path. Then, release the switch. For example, if encountering a high crosswind, depress the switch while correcting the vehicle’s course by turning the steering wheel into the wind. Only turn the steering wheel enough to make the vehicle follow a straight path down the road. When the wind stops push the button, steer the coach so it is going straight and release the button. CAUTION: The switch activates a solenoid that, if activated too long, causes permanent damage to the solenoid. The timer relay is properly set at the factory and the switch on it should not be altered. Altering standard factory setting will cause improper function of TruCenter™ and/ or permanent damage to the solenoid. Although a timer relay is installed to protect the solenoid, we recommend NOT activating the solenoid for periods longer than 5 to 10 seconds at a time. It is better to make multiple, fine adjustments than to hold the switch and try to align in one, time-consuming operation. NOTE: The adjustment button only allows the adjustment to be made with the steering wheel. It activates an adjustable gas spring, but the actual adjustment must be made by manually turning the steering wheel to the desired position. All of that is correct. Now read the part above that where it talks about installing it so that it is at the neutral setting from the factory. If the installation was not exact, you will fight the alignment every time you drive. The method I described was to set the neutral position during installation, which is why I mentioned jacking the tires up to do it. Once I set mine for the proper neutral setting as it came from the factory, I very seldom have to push the button. By very seldom, I mean maybe once a month when out in the Great Plains during high cross winds.
rgatijnet1 04/26/21 11:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Operating BlueOx Tru Center

I adjusted mine by using a pointer I taped to the top of the steering wheel. I drove down a decent highway and marked on the dash where the pointer on the steering wheel lined up with each other. Then I went back to my driveway and used the levelers to raise the front wheels off of the ground. With the wheels off of the ground I adjusted the Tru-Center so that the steering wheel pointer aligned with the mark that I put on the dash. That was all it took to have it adjusted so that I did not have to fight against it when driving down the highway. With the Tru-Center it took much less input from me to stay in my lane. . It’s not meant to be used like that. It’s meant to be set in various conditions. I sometimes reset it many times throughout the day. Going on 60,000 miles with mine and I don't plan on changing the way I use it. Perhaps you have to adjust yours so much because you never set it up right when you first installed it.
rgatijnet1 04/26/21 05:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Operating BlueOx Tru Center

I adjusted mine by using a pointer I taped to the top of the steering wheel. I drove down a decent highway and marked on the dash where the pointer on the steering wheel lined up with each other. Then I went back to my driveway and used the levelers to raise the front wheels off of the ground. With the wheels off of the ground I adjusted the Tru-Center so that the steering wheel pointer aligned with the mark that I put on the dash. That was all it took to have it adjusted so that I did not have to fight against it when driving down the highway. With the Tru-Center it took much less input from me to stay in my lane. .
rgatijnet1 04/26/21 05:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blue Ox Tru Center

Here is the right part. Solenoid Looks like you have to wait a month to have it shipped.
rgatijnet1 04/25/21 01:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blue Ox Tru Center

I think he said he got it from Blue OX but if you can find info printed on the solenoid, you may be able to buy it from an electronic supply house.
rgatijnet1 04/25/21 12:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blue Ox Tru Center

Maybe this will help: Tru-Center Solenoid
rgatijnet1 04/25/21 11:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine miss in hard rain

This is a simple solution on the GM 8.1L engine. What is happening is that your "tuba" air intake is ingesting water which is soaking your paper air cleaner element and causing the engine to miss. The solution is to cut off the top of the air intake tuba, turn it 180 degrees, so that it faces the rear, and using duct tape, reattach the intake air horn. I used two pieces of aluminum to screw in to the bottom of the tuba and then screwed the top on before I taped the joint. My cost was really nothing more than some time. I put another 50,000 miles in some very hard rain the the problem was solved. https://www.datazap.net/sites/Ronnie44/AirIntake.jpg
rgatijnet1 04/12/21 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Garage floor coating recommendations

A lot depends on if you use a vapor barrier under the concrete and how long it has been allowed to cure/dry. Coat it too soon and you will have issues. It takes at least 30 days for the concrete to cure and if no vapor barrier is used, there may still be some moisture coming up through the slab. We used to tape a piece of plastic visqueen about 3' square over the slab in a few locations and let it sit for a day or so to check to see if any moisture is still present. If the slab is completely dry than the Armorpoxy coating should work fine.
rgatijnet1 04/04/21 05:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: gas mileage

7-10 MPG with my 8.1L GM engine. In the Western mountains it drops to about 6 mpg. By towing you basically double your mileage because you are getting TWO vehicles to the destination using about the same amount of fuel. :)
rgatijnet1 04/03/21 07:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Transmission service price

Yes, it is a very fine brass screen designed to catch any particles that may be in the transmission. Tell the mechanic that you want him to save/document any particles that he finds to foretell any future issues.
rgatijnet1 03/26/21 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cooling external fuel pump

Perhaps you could form a coil of the incoming fuel lines to wrap around the pump and cool it as the fuel flows.
rgatijnet1 03/19/21 01:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 Shock Suggestions

Yes, they are a DIY project if you have the tools and a way to elevate the coach. The Bilsteins, being gas charged, are a little tougher because you are fighting the gas resistance to get them aligned top and bottom on the mounts. The Koni shocks can be compressed easily to align perfectly with the mounts and they will stay in that position while you install them.
rgatijnet1 03/18/21 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thor Structural Warranty Experience

Time to talk to an attorney. Here is a link for Lemon Laws in each State. State Lemon Laws for RV's
rgatijnet1 03/16/21 12:52pm Class A Motorhomes
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