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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgnprof' found 14 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

To be clear - the pin that I lost was at the receiver (closest to the camper)... I usually install my base plate pins the same way as describe above by way2roll.
rgnprof 10/21/19 02:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

I saw those exact chains listed above from etrailer...opted against them because for some reason, I didn't like the quick link end...not sure why but that doesn't look as strong to me...
rgnprof 10/21/19 02:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

Thanks for all the replies - appreciate the concern. I've been towing - pop-up and now my car - for years, first time anything like this has happened. A little unnerving! I'm also trying to figure out why the NSA (NOT Blue Ox as stated above) safety cable broke - my car is about 3300lbs and the cables are each rated for 4000lbs, I think... NSA safety cables I will definitely make a hitch pin change and will find a way to lock it up. This one was purchased at either Home Depot or WalMart - don't remember the specific brand. Appreciate the suggestions!
rgnprof 10/21/19 07:42am Class C Motorhomes
Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

We had just driven about 500 miles and were about 2 miles from home. Pulled off I-35, made a right-hand turn and just about lost the Subaru. The hitch pin was completely gone, and it was a brand new pin that I installed this trip. I usually eyeball the cotter pin along the trip, but didn't this time... I don't know if I lost the cotter pin then the hitch pin pulled out, or if the hitch pin sheared off...no idea! One of the Blue Ox safety chains broke right at the hook, while the other stayed intact. The hitch in pulling away damaged the underside panel on the rear of the motorhome, but no big deal. We got LUCKY! Needless to say, I'm in the market for better tow chains/safety cables and the best hitch pin available! ryan
rgnprof 10/20/19 07:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C rear end sag and banging!

Finally had a chance this fall break to try out the RV with the new add-a-leaf spring. I went with an add-a-leaf that I bought from ATS out of the Philadelphia area (they are great to work with and I can highly recommend them). Anyway, added a new leaf to each side, about 1100 lbs additional support per side...installation was pretty straightforward and we drove the rig this weekend about 500 miles. Definitely made a difference - ride is better and sits a little higher in the rear, which was very noticeably with my Subaru connected and when I pulled out of backed in to my slightly inclined driveway. I still get a "BANG" sometimes on pretty abrupt transitions in the highway, but seems better. Not sure how to address that problem. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied. ryan
rgnprof 10/20/19 07:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can't figure out how to grease u-joints - '93 Ford E350

I have tried the right angle - can't get it in between the yoke (the diameter of the connector itself is too large)...don't see how the needle will work either because I don't have a straight shot to the zerk. It's nuts! Either the shop who installed them paid no attention to the orientation during installation (and I'm not even sure there is an "orientation"), or ...I don't know.
rgnprof 09/27/19 06:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Can't figure out how to grease u-joints - '93 Ford E350

Spicer replacement U joints...Have tried rotating driveshaft, etc. Was hoping for some recommendation for a new, really thin walled zerk connector fitting :) Thanks!
rgnprof 09/25/19 06:37am Class C Motorhomes
Can't figure out how to grease u-joints - '93 Ford E350

I had new u-joints installed last summer on my Class C Ford E350 and I went to grease them and can't get to 3 out of the four (only one I coulod reach was the front). c I bought a new 'right angle' connector and still can't connect to the zerk fitting... Is this an installation problem? Can't figure out why they would make serviceable u-joints with zerks that you can't reach and "service"... Any thoughts?
rgnprof 09/24/19 07:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C rear end sag and banging!

After a lot of reading and talking with folks - and not having much success tracking down anything used - I have decided to try the add-a-leaf option. I have had numerous conversations with the guys at ATS Springs in Pennsylvania and they've been very helpful. Ordered a kit with one leaf per side rated at 1150 lbs each...Also bought a new polyurethane bushing kit from Energy Suspension - not sure if should or will replace the bushings yet??? Has anyone done this on an E350 chassis? Any trick to it? Doesn't look that hard, but every time I start a project thinking that, something always seems to come up! Thanks, ryan
rgnprof 09/06/19 08:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C rear end sag and banging!

I'm not sure what I would be looking for and what would be a good swap - are you saying that most leaf springs - even from a later model 450 will fit my E350 chassis?? How many leafs should I be looking for? Not opposed to the salvage yard route (love going to my local Pull-a-Part), but I just don't know what I'm looking for.
rgnprof 07/18/19 05:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C rear end sag and banging!

So what do you all think of the 'add a leaf spring' option? Several online companies sell these and they're similarly priced - sounds like it would increase the support by about 2300 lbs. Probably will replace the shocks as well, although I see no signs of leaking etc...
rgnprof 07/18/19 11:48am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C rear end sag and banging!

Thanks for all the quick replies! I ran the air bags at about 80 lbs - this typically raises my coach only about 1 1'2" - maybe 2"... My shocks are Bilsteins - I installed them around 2011, 2012 and about 30k miles ago. I have called 3 different online places, the last being Deaver (thanks bear). They were very helpful and to confirm Drew, they said that it's hard to just look at the springs and see a problem and that most likely the problems with these springs are the bushings! They said from new they have little "curve" to them... He actually suggested adding a leaf - they have a kit specific to my application. Replace the bushings if needed, but he said they frequently don't because they're ok. The factory tapered 3-leaf spring is rated at 3450 lbs, so it's likely the coach has always been 'under springed'... I'm strongly considering this route. I would like to find some replacement rear frame rubber bump stops - mine have clearly taken some punishment. But, I'm having trouble finding these - my Ford dealers around are pretty much a waste when it comes to parts for this old coach.
rgnprof 07/16/19 01:06pm Class C Motorhomes
Class C rear end sag and banging!

Just got back from a 4,000 mile plus journey to the great northeast - had a great trip and for the most part a pretty uneventful RV time. I have a '93 29ft Class C on a Ford E350 chassis with the 460 motor. Pulled my 2014 Subaru Forester 4 down and averaged 6 mpg. RV ran great...but the banging on some really crappy highways was pretty loud - interstate transitions, particularly at bridges were especially problematic. An ex RV mechanic in Gettsyburg mentioned new leaf springs indicating that he thought the rear end was hanging pretty low. So I crawled under and starting looking around and reading some on the internet. My camper has about a 10 ft rear tire overhang and it's "only" (??) got a 3 leaf spring system installed and they're pretty much flat or arc slightly in a 'frown'. The rubber bumper stop that is pressed against the frame is pretty squashed... I have Firestone Air Bags but I noticed they weren't making much of a difference in ride height. The banging problem has been prevalent since I purchased the RV about 10 years ago - PO even commented on it when I drove it - but I am pretty sure the rear end is sagging more over the past couple of years. I read somewhere that Ford 'experimented' with a 3 leaf spring system and that it didn't really work out. I'm having trouble sourcing replacement springs and not sure of what to get. I know someone is going to mentioned rear axle weight, but I don't know it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance! Ryan
rgnprof 07/16/19 10:50am Class C Motorhomes
Rebuilding cabover side wall

I have rebuilt this entire cabover once before and am currently redoing the driver's side wall on the cabover. Normally, I would attach the lauan plywood to the aluminum frame with some staples and some Sta-Put II foam adhesive, then attach the filon to the lauan with some Benders 631 contact adhesive - using some staples around the very edge. BUT, I'm considering another approach and am looking for someone to talk me out of it, or say "great idea"... I'm thinking of attaching the filon to the plywood in my garage - with the Benders 631 contact adhesive and then put that piece on the side of the camper - using the same Sta-Put foam adhesive and some staples. That would allow me to really clamp these 2 pieces (filon and plywood) together much better than I could if I tried to install the filon to the side of the camper. Any staples that show - and I'm thinking of stapling thru the filon into the aluminum frame - I would then use some Bondo fiberglass repair to patch over these staples before painting. Any thoughts? Again, I'm piecing this in - it's just the side piece above the driver's door - about 3' x 5'... ryan
rgnprof 06/06/19 03:16pm Class C Motorhomes
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