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 > Your search for posts made by 'rhagfo' found 704 matches.

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RE: Very Bad RV Wreck in Oregon

Not that it makes much difference of the results but a couple of questions arise about the where of the crash. "It took the Ilwaco Fire Department over an hour"... From Ilwaco it is at least a 30 minute drive to anyplace in Oregon and that includes a 5 mile drive across the Astoria–Megler Bridge. Some of the comments in the comments section seem to come from the towing company that is located in Ocean Park, WA. Oregon State Police isn't likely to have them on the call list unless it was an extreme emergency. And the poster that said "Most roads in Oregon have no guard rails;" must be a transplant. I am an Oregon native for 67 years and driven a vast majority of the roads in the state and have seen many miles of guardrails. I don't doubt you've seen many miles of guardrails, but the standard is no guard rails on the majority of roads throughout the State. I to am a lifelong Oregonian with now 4 years touring the us and sure, there are no guardrail roads in places in Oregon .. I’ve found the rest of the country no different. Where are you getting this sales tax / roads info from ? All roads .. everywhere are “built “up with gravel shoulders. Besides this crash was mislabeled and is a Washington crash. What about Washington state guardrails? On built up roads! I think they have a high sales tax but roads are generally from the fuel tax. Old time Oregonians are a little touchy when transplants start talking sales tax to fix problems lol I been here 26 years, and I find that native Oregonian's lack perspective. I've lived in Pennsylvania, North Carolina, Florida, Texas, California(sorry) and Oregon. I did NOT advocate for any sales tax, nor do I believe guardrails should be everywhere, but in many places, they have them where their most needed(mountain passes and such), but not Oregon. You ever go from Eugene to Sisters or the other mountain passes? No guardrails. Pennsylvania has guard rails all over the place. What does happen is occasionally when someone gets killed going over a mountainside, they make some noise about guardrails but it goes no where(nor do I think it should) Don Well been an Oregonian for 23 years, before that a Washingtonian. Both states have guard rails where needed, and not where not needed. The job of the driver is to stay between the lines. I drive Hwy 47 in Oregon, there are places where the fog line is the edge of the flat surface, the ditch starts on the other side. If they tried to place guard rails there the post would be exposed for 8', likely little stopping power. I really feel for the couple in the accident, but they either both should have been in the cab, DW acting as a second set of eyes, and to keep the driver awake. OR the both should have been in the bed in the back, parked in some park, or parking lot.
rhagfo 01/01/20 01:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Black Ice Detectors

Constant downpour and 32*F does not make for black ice Surface temp below 32*F and a light rain makes for black ice formation (thin layer of ice where road surface shows thru) *Bridges, low areas are prime for 'black ice' Be attentive...look for pathes of road that looks NEW or DARKER then surrounding road area Tech Devices are available ....... Black Ice Devices...goggle Old-Biscuit pretty much hit the nail on the head. If it is pouring rain, that rain will warm the surface temperature of the road surface, if at or jest below 32 degrees you may have sleet or freezing rain. Freezing rain can put inches of ice on the road. If you are not getting any ice build up on vehicle surfaces you should be fine. The greatest black ice danger is after several days of subfreezing temperatures then either a heavy fog or light rain will create a skating rink!!!
rhagfo 01/01/20 05:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking of replacing ASME propane tank

Have you checked with a propane dealer?
rhagfo 01/01/20 05:39am General RVing Issues
RE: Very Bad RV Wreck in Oregon

Not that it makes much difference of the results but a couple of questions arise about the where of the crash. "It took the Ilwaco Fire Department over an hour"... From Ilwaco it is at least a 30 minute drive to anyplace in Oregon and that includes a 5 mile drive across the Astoria–Megler Bridge. /snip/ It didn't take the FD an hour to get there; it took them an hour to dig the passenger out of the debris. Re-read the comment....Dennis The point I was making was that the Ilwaco FD would have been highly unlikely to be called into Oregon. I worded it very poorly. My guess is that this crash happened south of Ilwaco, on either 101 or Washington 401. Both are winding and many places have very little shoulder. Not an Oregon crash this happened in SW Washington.
rhagfo 01/01/20 05:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: DRW back to SRW

I find it interesting that those that complain about how hard and hard to park a DRW have never driven one! My DD drives a VW Jetta for work, then drives 2004 Ram SLT CC long bed DRW, for dealing with her horses. She has no issues!
rhagfo 12/29/19 09:57pm Truck Campers
RE: DRW back to SRW

I would not consider drw unless the load required it. Harder to park with the wide hips, extra cost for tires and worse than useless when empty on snow covered roads. I don't need to look like a wannabe trucker. It isn’t about a Wannabe Trucker” it is about future proofing our TV. Even with a 4,000# payload, one needs to remember other things eat up part of that. We lost about 1,400# to the in bed tool box, hitch, DW, me, our sweet dog, leaving us with about 4,000# available. Had I started with 4,000# I might not have enough payload left for the 2,700# pin of our 5er. I park where I want to in parking lots and parking garages, unless the beams are too low
rhagfo 12/29/19 08:10pm Truck Campers
RE: F450 vs F350 SRW payload

Ford chose to limit the F450 pickup to 14K lbs GVWR yet has the F450 chassis cab up to 16.5k lbs. Because the F450 pickup uses heavier duty components than the F350 DRW pickup, you may actually see less payload available due to the cap that Ford put on it. I see it strictly as marketing choice rather than the actual capacity of this truck. X2 So many states will list any truck with a GVWR greater than 14,000# as commercial with much higher registration fees and higher insurance rates. That F450 is far more capable than the F350 SRW, anyone should be able to figure that out.
rhagfo 12/27/19 07:55am Tow Vehicles
RE: Elec. heat v. Gas heat

What on Earth ever happened to discussion of these outstanding RV heating options that really have got it right: Propane and 12 powered ... ultra-low 12V power consumption and noise, vented, and hence with no moisture or combustion products into the interior ... combined with just sipping the propane. These heaters would be especially great for long term drycamping: http://www.ventedcatheater.com/heaters (Their design reminds me of the fanless vented propane heater in our 1969 vintage Class C motorhome from years ago.) Well I can think of two reasons; 1. The surface is HOT and can be a source of ignition for flammable materials passes near it. 2. Doesn’t heat the basement or tank area in freezing weather. You do need to use correct caution when using.
rhagfo 12/25/19 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Elec. heat v. Gas heat

Personally never heard of an AC Heat put being efficient down to 35. Since you were paying attention. I put the money I would have spent with my three 15k AC's NOT having Heat Pumps and went with "Cheap Heat" option for my furnace. Simple flip of the switch I am on Electric or Propane. My Penguin AC's would have been about $500 more each with the heat pumps. NOT cheap but worth every $$$. You need to broaden your knowledge base:B I have been a RV Tech for 40 years. I have been installing and working on RV HP's for the past 20 years since they introduced them for RV's. Unless you are consistently below 35 degrees, HP's are much better at Heating your RV. LESS noise and softer heat, than running a 12 volt furnace or the furnace with the 120 add on kit. MOST knowledgable RV'ers will select a HP option for their RV's. I had a HP at my stick home years ago and it worked just fine. I have yet to have a customer tell me that he wished he NEVER had the HP option. I HAVE had numerous customers add or asked to install a HP. Doug WOW! What an exchange, a knowledgeable RV tech that thinks you can only tap 120 volts on a 220 volt 50 amp service! I have never understood heating from the roof, heat strips or Heat Pump, they don't heat the basement. WHEN did I say this????????????????????????????? Also a 50 amp RV IS 120 VOLTS, NOT 220 VOLTS. While the listing states 240/120 the legs are SEPERATE and only 120 is in the RV. Now, on MILLION dollar units and some HI END 5th wheels they do have a 220 circuit for a dryer or induction type range. But that is very rare. Now to your last statement about Basement. You do not know what you are talking about. YOU DO NOT NEED HEATED BASEMENT ABOVE 32 DEGREES. Once you go below 35 degrees the HP system kicks out and the FURNACE system kicks in and THAT is what heats the Basement when needed. Also Heat Strips are NOT HEAT. They are there to take the chill off and not heat. Doug Well you implied it in the first post, then stated in your last post. 50 amp RV services are 220 volts and 50 amps. You can tap at main breaker, or install half width double main with a 50/30 rating. My Cheap Heat" as stated before runs at 5,000 watts on a 30 amp 220 volt circuit. If my park feed is only a 30 amp 120 volt service then the furnace steps down to 1,800 watts.I went to another forum and found this. I think the point is to find out what your input voltage is by measuring between l1/l2 http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp%20Service.pdf Boy I hope this all fits. That is correct, and if installed per NEC the voltage between the two will be 240 volts. You can tap at the main or install at half with 30/50 double pole breaker. Link
rhagfo 12/25/19 01:02am Tech Issues
RE: Ceramic Heater Safety

Electrical code says 80% is the max for sizing a circuit, wire size. Also those devices in your trailer that are for 110v are UL listed for there usage which means safe for their circuit load. Don't fear what you don't understand there are rules to follow with electricity. The problem is I do understand. So unless one knows what else Is on that circuit it will be overloaded. Seeing how most RVs have minimal number of circuits this becomes easy. Sorry as the son of a Firefighter I very much dislike space heaters. Yes, I have a couple if I have a furnace failure, but would only run on low.
rhagfo 12/23/19 10:31am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Elec. heat v. Gas heat

^^^^^^^. WOW you do need sum eduminukatin! I have a 220V washer AND dryer along with 220V Cheap Heat. To blow your mind even more I have a 220V Cummins 6500 Commercial generator for run those items. X2! Cheap Heat At the last RV show I went to I was told many go with Heat Pumps also, but they really stop working at about 40 degrees. We full time park host in Oregon, we see winter temps below 40 degrees a lot, so a heat pump is not a good option. We had a week or so of temps near Portland in the low 20's high teen's, Cheap Heat kept us at 68 inside.
rhagfo 12/23/19 07:15am Tech Issues
RE: Elec. heat v. Gas heat

Personally never heard of an AC Heat put being efficient down to 35. Since you were paying attention. I put the money I would have spent with my three 15k AC's NOT having Heat Pumps and went with "Cheap Heat" option for my furnace. Simple flip of the switch I am on Electric or Propane. My Penguin AC's would have been about $500 more each with the heat pumps. NOT cheap but worth every $$$. You need to broaden your knowledge base:B I have been a RV Tech for 40 years. I have been installing and working on RV HP's for the past 20 years since they introduced them for RV's. Unless you are consistently below 35 degrees, HP's are much better at Heating your RV. LESS noise and softer heat, than running a 12 volt furnace or the furnace with the 120 add on kit. MOST knowledgable RV'ers will select a HP option for their RV's. I had a HP at my stick home years ago and it worked just fine. I have yet to have a customer tell me that he wished he NEVER had the HP option. I HAVE had numerous customers add or asked to install a HP. Doug WOW! What an exchange, a knowledgeable RV tech that thinks you can only tap 120 volts on a 220 volt 50 amp service! I have never understood heating from the roof, heat strips or Heat Pump, they don't heat the basement. WHEN did I say this????????????????????????????? Also a 50 amp RV IS 120 VOLTS, NOT 220 VOLTS. While the listing states 240/120 the legs are SEPERATE and only 120 is in the RV. Now, on MILLION dollar units and some HI END 5th wheels they do have a 220 circuit for a dryer or induction type range. But that is very rare. Now to your last statement about Basement. You do not know what you are talking about. YOU DO NOT NEED HEATED BASEMENT ABOVE 32 DEGREES. Once you go below 35 degrees the HP system kicks out and the FURNACE system kicks in and THAT is what heats the Basement when needed. Also Heat Strips are NOT HEAT. They are there to take the chill off and not heat. Doug Well you implied it in the first post, then stated in your last post. 50 amp RV services are 220 volts and 50 amps. You can tap at main breaker, or install half width double main with a 50/30 rating. My Cheap Heat" as stated before runs at 5,000 watts on a 30 amp 220 volt circuit. If my park feed is only a 30 amp 120 volt service then the furnace steps down to 1,800 watts.
rhagfo 12/23/19 07:11am Tech Issues
RE: Ceramic Heater Safety

Well I have read most if not all the responses and don't recall the effects of running a 1500 watt heater on the standard RV 15 amp circuit and outlet. At 1500 watts that is 12.5 amps of current draw on a 15 amp circuit on 14 gauge wire. Not to my liking. My supplemental electrical heat is through my furnace. WHY????? #14 wire is throughout your stick house other than the kitchen and the laundry. #14 wire = 120v X 15 amps = 1800 watts electrical code limits its use to 80%. around 1500watts Yep, Just enough, don't forget the outlets in trailers have minimum wire contact, it is called insulation displacement. The wire is squeezed into a slot in a contact. I only add 20 amp circuits, with 12 gauge wire with screw-down terminals. By the way 1500 watts on a 15 amp circuit is 83% of the rating.
rhagfo 12/22/19 10:17pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Elec. heat v. Gas heat

Personally never heard of an AC Heat put being efficient down to 35. Since you were paying attention. I put the money I would have spent with my three 15k AC's NOT having Heat Pumps and went with "Cheap Heat" option for my furnace. Simple flip of the switch I am on Electric or Propane. My Penguin AC's would have been about $500 more each with the heat pumps. NOT cheap but worth every $$$. You need to broaden your knowledge base:B I have been a RV Tech for 40 years. I have been installing and working on RV HP's for the past 20 years since they introduced them for RV's. Unless you are consistently below 35 degrees, HP's are much better at Heating your RV. LESS noise and softer heat, than running a 12 volt furnace or the furnace with the 120 add on kit. MOST knowledgable RV'ers will select a HP option for their RV's. I had a HP at my stick home years ago and it worked just fine. I have yet to have a customer tell me that he wished he NEVER had the HP option. I HAVE had numerous customers add or asked to install a HP. Doug You may have more KNOWLEDGE than I but my 220V Cheap Heat addition causes no noise. My furnace is very quiet and is fully ducted. Have a AC unit with heat pump go bad and it’s $$$. I have never heard of a single Cheap Heat issue. Nice to have heat come down from the roof? Not the best for sure. Nice to have warm floors and to keep my tanks and plumbing heated. No stupid space heaters to try to keep warm. You would want to use 15 amps if that was all you had available. CH makes that impossible. 2. CH shuts down--and doesn't switch over to propane if the power goes off. That leaves the RV at risk of freezing. WOW! What an exchange, a knowledgeable RV tech that thinks you can only tap 120 volts on a 220 volt 50 amp service! I have never understood heating from the roof, heat strips or Heat Pump, they don't heat the basement. Then there is Pianotuna, who thinks it is a major drawback that Cheap Heat will not automatically switch to propane if the power goes out. If that was an issue to me a simple 120 volt relay setup would handle that. To me getting out of bed at flipping a switch from gas to electric is not a big deal. Pianotuna, there isn't much in the way of electric heat you can run on a 15 amp connection, small space heater, or a heated rug. I am with Ron, I have installed the Cheap Heat system with the auto voltage switch over kit. This will automatically switch from heating with 220 volts/50 amps with 5,000 watts of heat, down to 120 volts, 30 amps with 1,800 watts of heat. The 1.,800 watts of heat will hold 68 degrees in our three season 32' 5er as low as 32 degrees outside. If I need to raise the temp I simply switch to gas to raise the temp and switch back to electric. On 220V/50 amps have not found the low end yet. We have been down to about 22 degrees and still easily keeping up. I also agree with Ron on the fact that Cheap Heat is NOT cheap to purchase. I am capable of doing my own electrical work, so did my own install. When first installed the auto switch over wasn't available, it would take me about 15 to 20 minutes to move the necessary connections to switch over. Cheap Heat
rhagfo 12/22/19 08:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Towing in slick conditions

If from Cottage Grove is it safe to assume headed over Santiam Pass? I think that is the highest commonly used pass in the state about 4,500’ or so. It can get pretty bad at times, just watch “Trip Check” and plan according.
rhagfo 12/22/19 12:10pm Travel Trailers
RE: Make An Offer

We bought our current 5er from CW, the main think to keep in mind, YOU need to CONTROL the process. The unit we bought was at a CW about a 4 hour drive from our house, we had backed out of a deal on one unit locally, but had found one we liked at the CW in Burlington, WA. We started the deal locally in Portland with the salesman from the deal we backed out of the deal on. We negotiated a price from the lots pictures. At this point the manager wanted us to sign the sales contract! Well we said that would only happen once we had done a complete in person inspection and PDI! We placed a hold deposit on the 5er, as it was Monday and we could not go up until Saturday. Once we got to Burlington on Saturday, we did an inspection and found some small items and called our salesman, and requested a reduction in price. After about 45 minutes they agreed to the reduction. We finalized the deal and towed it home.
rhagfo 12/22/19 06:01am Camping World RV Sales
RE: Traveling southbound through Atlanta on I-75 in 5th wheel

Well if you must drive through Atlanta just keep your cool, and be patient. Can’t be worse than Everett to Olympia In Washington State.
rhagfo 12/21/19 10:42am Roads and Routes
RE: Current weather warning for WA & OR coast

Well Sitting in Buxton Trail head over the 48 hours ending midnight last night we had 4.5" of rain on our weather station.
rhagfo 12/21/19 06:49am Roads and Routes
RE: Motorhome, 5th Wheel or Pull Trailer

Which RV handles best in windy weather and 18 wheelers passing you and then pulling over in front of you Motorhome, Pull Trailer or 5th Wheel??? For "handles best in windy weather" - the physics of boxes traveling down the road dictate that you travel in as small of a one-piece RV, on as heavy duty a chassis, as you can tolerate and afford. This means that you rule out towed RVs, and instead go for a short and not too tall Class A or Class B or Class C motorhome on the highest rated chassis it can be had on. I didn't realize the above when we bought our new RV, but luckily - from a handling and stability viewpoint - wound up with a 24 foot Class C on a Ford E450 chassis. This chassis happened to be stock rated and built to handle consideraly more weight than the coach portion requires (hence stiff springs), came stock with a front hydraulic steering stabiliizer (hence no hassle to keep it going strait down the road), came stock with a full box delivery truck type rear dually stance (hence a wide side-to-side footprint where coach weight is the heaviest) and most importantly, came stock with both front and rear torsion bars to reduce coach sway relative to the chassis frame. We have no problems driving in healthy side-winds, and big rig push when they pass is at a minimum. Another subtle benefit is that we don't need stablizer jacks when camped because walking inside the RV doesn't cause any rocking to speak of. However towables outsell motorhomes by a wide margin, so IMHO the next best stable setup is as small and non-tall 5'er as one can tolerate being pulled by a one-ton dually pickup. Well as stater before 32" 5er, 13' tall towed by a 2001 Ram 2500 rock solid in the wind and passing semis. I don't want small, but want solid, and our combo is now the same 5er towed by a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW.
rhagfo 12/19/19 11:43pm General RVing Issues
RE: Nice find TV

Well 2007 Ford Diesel is going to be the highly reliable 6.0 NOT!
rhagfo 12/18/19 09:44pm Fifth-Wheels
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