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 > Your search for posts made by 'rk911' found 590 matches.

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RE: New DISH Subscriber With Questions

thanks to everyone who responded. some comments follow: @dutch_12078: based on a thread about a similar topic (maybe it was yours) i prepared a similar "script" but haven't used it yet. @ those who suggested using 'tech support', the CSR who gave me the argument on our first night was from 'tech support'. the next night i chose option '3', the dept that makes changes to programming packages. that CSR basically said it makes no difference which dept i choose for a service address change. i guess ill-trained CSR's are everywhere. @cmoecmoe: ok, on the zip code, craig. but i still don't understand what function the zip code performs if it's not needed to lock in the satellites or get the local programming. anyone?? the program guide with the new locals didn't download until i changed the zip code. @georgelesley: great tip! i will use that. is the 'bump' what causes the program guide to re-load? @sch911: we also have an OTA antenna on the RV but as you surely know reception is hit and miss in an RV. and we don't care about local programming, just the broadcast network programming. receiving it on the DISH means we can record it on our DVR. and our MH came with the Jack antenna which is at a fixed elevation. i had the dealer pull it with the idea of switching to a Winegard but after pulling the Jack we found that the Winegard has a smaller footprint than the Jack meaning I'd have leftover hole on the roof and on the lounge ceiling so I'm stuck with the Jack. *ReneeG & BB-TT: i wondered about that. on our first night out the park had a PO box address so i just used the address of another nearby RV park. i like the idea of 100 (insert street name here) idea! regarding the OTA module: i see a problem. like other RV our MH is also equipped with a cable TV input but there is no video switch. instead OTA and cable are both served with a single coax line. the TV input is switched to 'TV' and when the OTA amplifier is on OTA channels are tuned; when the OTA amp is off cable channels are tuned. in essence the OTA amp functions as a switch. if i can figure out the wiring I might try the same thing that Dutch is doing...feeding the OTA antenna to the TV and DISH receiver. @wa8yxm: excellent idea. thanks es 73. _____________________________ thanks to all. it's truly appreciated.
rk911 10/02/15 08:12pm Technology Corner
New DISH Subscriber With Questions

We took delivery of the new MH a couple of weeks ago and are on its maiden voyage. Banana Boat III is equipped with a Winegard Trav'ler automatic satellite dish and a DISH network Vip722k receiver/DVR. The system is setup to watch/record two different programs simultaneously...one on the front TV and another on the rear TV. This is our first encounter with satellite TV in general and with DISH in particular. We purchased the receiver and set up the accounts with Solid Signals, an authorized DISH network seller and they have been super. The dish works well and overall we're happy. But there have been a few hiccups for which I am getting conflicting answers. So I'm turning to those of you who are more experienced with DISH network for some straight answers. * local channels: I made it clear to the DISH guy and to Solid Signals that the service was for an RV and that we wanted to be able to get whichever local channels/networks that were available wherever we might find ourselves. Both DISH and the Solid Signals customer service reps told me..."no problem" and that all I needed to do was call DISH and change my service address whenever we needed to. They added that the address needed to be a valid USPS address. On our first night out I called DISH and asked to change my "service address" and that everything else in the account was staying the same. The off-shore CSR asked for the receiver ID and then promptly told me that the Vip722k was not compatible with that request. I asked for a supervisor and got the same response. The next morning I called the CSR at Solid Signals who set up our account. She told me that there are many DISH TV CSR's who are ill trained or lazy and either don't know how to or don't want to change a service address and that I might need to call 3 or 4 times in order to get the change made. sound about right? Tonight we're in a different location and I tried again. This time a DISH CSR in NYC said "no problem" but it took about 20-minutes for him to make the change. Should it take that long? He said he had to get someone to "override" whatever he was doing. ??? Which is going to be my typical response from DISH when I call to change the service address...the argument I received on the first night, the 20-minute call the second night or something else? are there any "magic words" I should be using when I call them? * Once the DISH CSR said that the service address change was made he said I had to re-load the guide and package by entering our local zip code in the installation menu (MENU:6:1:1). He said that was to ensure the dish antenna on the MH could lock onto the proper satellites. But the Trav'ler antenna had already locked onto sats 110, 119 and 129 and I had a picture and all of my channels prior to my calling DISH. Once I did enter the new zip code the receiver did a re-load that took about 15-minutes to complete and when done I had the new locals. What's the real purpose of changing the zip code??? Will doing that get the local channels without having to make a call to DISH? Do I even NEED to change the zip code or is it just a good idea to do it? Is the real reason for the zip code to force a re-load? So, what's the real skinny on all of this???
rk911 10/01/15 08:41pm Technology Corner
RE: Is upgrading from XP to Windows 7 worth it?

Stick with XP it is still being supported... not my Microsoft. no more updates, patches or fixes. XP was a wonderful OS but I wouldn't put it online. it'll still be fine for offline use, though. as for the OP...I would agree with the other post. you can still find new Win7 machines that can be upgraded to Win10 when the time comes.
rk911 09/23/15 04:01pm Technology Corner
RE: Getting rid of Road Trip grill - replace with Weber Q?

...I've read a LOT of folks recommending Weber. Which one to get?... this is the weber we use. smallish, folds flat.
rk911 09/22/15 06:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: Drop down hitch or no?

I measured the height of the hitch receiver on my Fleetwood Fiesta. Measuring from the bottom, it's 23" off the ground. Im going to be moving from Minnesota to Tennessee I'm going to be renting a uhaul tow dolly to tow my car (toyota corrola) down there. I do not yet have a ball mount....planning to buy one soon. The guy I talked to at uhaul when booking the tow dolly said I should get one that drops down 10". That seems a little extreme to me. What do you guys think? I needed an 8" drop-down in order to flat tow our 2010 Liberty behind our 2016 Itasca Suncruiser. do what ya gotta do.
rk911 09/15/15 09:55am Dinghy Towing
RE: What do all the veteran RV enthusiasts think.........

In the spirit of "Go Big or Go Home" the DH and I have found a beautiful 2003 Fleetwood Providence diesel pusher with 56,000 miles on it to begin our RV adventure. It appears to be a very sweet deal, under $50k. We do have a few questions since this is a smaller dealer. it it normal to see an RV that was taken in trade with no inspection, registration or plates? Is it reasonable to pay a $500 deposit while you are negotiating? Since the DH is a whiz with a gas engine, but not diesels we were going to have a diesel RV mechanic look at it. Any direction or thoughts on the unit would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Caroline we've purchased three motorhomes since 1986, the most recent just two weeks ago. our experience has been that it is NOT usual to demand a deposit during negotiations. once the deal has been agreed upon by all parties then yes, a small deposit is customary. in addition to the diesel mechanic have a qualified RV tech inspect the RV itself...slideouts, roof, side walls, appliances, gas/water system, etc. good luck.
rk911 09/14/15 12:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Yay or Nay?

Many probably already know our story. We have a 2013 32' Class C with a Ford V10 E50 engine/chassis. We had a tow dolly (and was fine with it). We started towing my toyota yaris and I traded it in on a ford focus. The focus was hit by another and totaled. I decided to not base my daily driver (70 miles/day to and from work) on a car that could be towed. Ended up with an automatic Subaru that can't be towed and sold the tow dolly. Anyway, my wife has a 2013 Ford Explorer. Weight in around 4500 lbs or so. The weight limit for our motorhome is 5000. Would you consider towing it (flat) behind the motorhome (with braking syustem of course)? Another possibility is that we could trade it in on something else, but if I can avoid having to do another deal, I would highly consider it. your towing weight limit may very well be 5000-lbs but are you sure? in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following: • the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.) • the weight rating of your tow bar • the weight rating of your hitch this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc. and are you sure your Explorer weighs 4500-lbs? weigh it and be sure.
rk911 09/14/15 12:26pm Dinghy Towing
RE: tire pressure

My inflation rates per Newmar table are 100 psi each 255/80/22.5 tire, front and rear. Check in the driver's area for manufacturer chart listing inflation rates. check the mfg chart carefully and i'll bet you see that the 100-psi recommendation is based on the RV being at the GVWR. you aren't wrong inflating to 100-psi. heck, I had a roadside service call a few years back for a blowout and the service guy told me he just inflates all of his truck tires to the max cold inflation and doesn't worry about the weight. as I said, you're not wrong but unless your RV weighs in at the GVWR i'll bet you could soften your ride by reducing the tire pressure and maybe get better handling. both Winnebago motorhomes that we've bought new recommended using a tire pressure based on an assumed weight of GVWR.
rk911 09/05/15 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tire pressure

Rich, I agree, but it is really the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. If it weighs any more, you move right on the chart to the next higher PSI. We may be talking semantics here, as both agree on the plus 5-10 PSI. yes...when i wrote "for the load being carried" I meant exactly what you wrote..."for a given weight". semantics. :)
rk911 09/05/15 03:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tire pressure

Remember, the chart gives the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. If these are not individual wheel position weights, add 5 PSI to account for side to side imbalance. I always add a 5 PSI "safety reserve" to the minimum. So, 5-10 PSI over the minimum. the Michelin chart gives the minimum PSI for the load being carried. I agree with the 5-10 psi over minimum. we have the same tires as the OP except ours are load range 'G'. we took delivery yesterday and just determined my wet weights (full fuel, water and LP tanks...nothing else on board) today. front axle weighs 7,140, rear weighs 15,100 making 3570 per tire in front and 3775 per tire in the rear. at those weights the Michelin table calls for 70-psi all around. once the MH is fully loaded as we usually travel I will re-weigh and set inflation accordingly likely rounding up to the next highest inflation for unequal corner weights. the placard on the driver's door of our MH indicates a cold pressure of 100-psi front and rear but that is based on an assumed GVW of 9000-lbs front and 17,500-lbs rear and not the actual weight of the motorhome.
rk911 09/05/15 03:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: WiFi options

in our old MH I used a RadioLabs Wave RV external antenna/wifi adapter mounted to our crank up batwing antenna. that really helped to capture a park's wifi signal as well as signals within a 3-5 mile radius. very soon now we're taking delivery of a new class A without a winegard crank up so looking for a different solution. I recall reading about a way using a standard router that would capture the park's wifi signal and convert that to a secure wifi signal for use within the RV. can't recall which router or any other details. I'm looking into a MiFi/Wilson sleek, air card with cradle point and just using the tablet or phone's hotspot but I'd rather use the park's wifi signal as much as possible and any edge or way of maximizing that signal.
rk911 09/01/15 03:36pm Technology Corner
RE: Cleaning the Class A while using it?

How do RV users keep them clean when using them? Most campgrounds don't allow you to clean them while camping. Inevitably we will end up driving in the rain thus getting them filthy. So how do you keep them clean when in use? Not looking to hear how you clean it when you get home. We all know how to do that. many to most of the CGs and RV Parks that we've used will allow a mobile wash service into the park. others will ask for a small fee ($5-$10) to offset the water use while still others will allow washing from a bucket (no running water).
rk911 09/01/15 03:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: What kind of RVer are you

This is us.... Retirees seeing the country and traveling for months at a time at a leisurely pace stopping for days or weeks at they go along but returning to a home base for most of the year; us as well. usually two 3-mos trips each year.
rk911 08/31/15 03:37pm RV Lifestyle
RE: My worst trip so far

Pulled out 2 windows Saturday that started showing signs of moisture. Tomorrow I make the trip to Sunstate Designers to leave the windows for repair. I have heard good things about their work and feel lucky that I have a place to get windows repaired within driving distance. 3 hours one way but at least I don't have to camp in their parking lot a lot it is but with 50amp hookup. we had Suncoast Designers repair 7-windows in our 2000 Suncruiser and couldn't be happier.
rk911 08/26/15 11:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What to do with water filters between trips?

We have the Blue Camco for outside the RV and a whole house filter inside the wet bay. After camping for a week and not having another trip planned for about 3 months, what do you guys do with your water filters? How do you store them? Throw em out? I don't keep rig hooked up to water when she is parked home. Please don't turn this into my filter system is better than yours, I trust yours is great. Thanks. we have the under-sink filter. between trips it stays put. I remove it at the end of the season and toss it and then install a new one at the beginning of the next season.
rk911 08/26/15 11:16am General RVing Issues
RE: RV duty propane, CO, and smoke detectors

What is needed is a dual chamber detector that will detect CO and smoke from a slow smoldering fire such as may start in a R/V because of electrical fires and fast burning smokeless fires. After a lot of research and talking to Kidde, they assured me that this one would work in a home and also A RV,there is no difference. This is what I found. A Kidde KN-COSM-XTR-B Nighthawk That seemed to be best suited for this kind of application. Like This They now can be bought at Home Depot, also At Amazon. Amazon I suggest you read all the info and make your decision on this but I replaced the ones in my Class C with this one.They are rated for 7 years and most are only rated for 5,If your RV is older than 5 years old and they haven't been changed they are most likely no good. Mine needed to be replaced so this was a good deal for me, I had a hard wired one and I chucked it for the battery powered ones, they can be checked before each trip by pushing the test button in the center of the unit. Just a reminder,a first line of defense is always the best. Check those smoke detectors and replace them if needed,all have a date on them and how long they are good for. If they don't, toss them. I hope that this helps or from here at a substantial discount.
rk911 08/18/15 02:02pm Tech Issues
RE: RV duty propane, CO, and smoke detectors

Even when plugged into shore power, one of the detectors starts beeping about low voltage while the water pump is cycling rapidly, such as when I'm taking a shower. How far down is the voltage going when this happens ? If you are going to replace them all just because you think it's time anyway.....I think you should stick with the 12 V ones like it came with. Much more reliable. What if the 9 V model runs the battery down while the RV is in storage; will you know it the next time it's used ?? I replace my 9v batteries every spring as part of my start-of-the-season checklist. if the OP is a fulltimer just replace the batteries when DST starts and ends. I'd rather have the peace of mind that comes with the 9v models knowing that they'll operate in case of a 12v failure in the coach.
rk911 08/18/15 01:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Verizon plan changes!

I can guarantee you that Verizon, ATT, Sprint and others never make changes that they don't profit from. This latest change has been carefully crafted to save some people money, but in the overall picture will generate more money for Verizon. It's the American way! and there ain't nuthin wrong with that.
rk911 08/14/15 11:50am General RVing Issues
RE: Desk in Slideout

I have a 38ft Fleetwood Expedition. It came with a desk in the passenger slideout instead of a couch. We are having trouble finding a computer chair to work with it. Due to it being in the slideout, there is about a 1 inch height difference, so a typical desk chair wont sit under the desk. Any ideas? how 'bout adding a boat seat cushion to the chair? that should raise it up enough.
rk911 08/14/15 11:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Verizon plan changes!

My understanding is that Verizon will no longer provide free phones. In the past people would get a free phone when they sign up for service. The phone has to be paid for so it was added to the cost of peoples plan. Now that the free phones are taken out of the plans the cost should go down. I was skeptical that the cost would actually go down. Hopefully it is true but when you need a new phone you will have to pay for it out of pocket. most phones weren't "free" as the cost between the discount you paid up front was simply figured into the monthly line cost. ain't nuttin free.
rk911 08/13/15 05:38pm General RVing Issues
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