Looks like my list has grown by many items. No pets will be involved, passports have 4 more years before they expire, no guns involved, but I never remembered to put my meds on the list. Auto refill with VA hence, mail forwarding.
Thanks for the tips hope more come up. But now I have another question
Fireproof safe? Where would one put such an item, in a basement storage compartment, I do not have any closet floor space. I found a place for cash but no idea on a safe/box.
we're looking to add a small safe to our RV as well. one fellow had his installed under the bed.
Your PSI should be adjusted to the tire mfgrs. load range table. You can't know for sure without knowing the weight on each axle.
X2. load up the MH as you would for travel. that should include fuel, food, water, LP, clothing, pets, supplies and people. take it to a certified scale and, at a minimum, get individual axle weights. then consult the inflation tables here and inflate accordingly. ideally you want the minimum inflation for the load being carried. you can inflate higher than the minimum but you shouldn't inflate lower than the minimum. a higher inflation may result in poorer handling and longer stopping distances. for sure you'll experience a harder ride. be sure to set the inflation on a cool day or before the tires heat up from the sun or from use.
I'm stuck in Tyler, TX with non-working toad lights. I drug the rear end of the MH and crushed the light cable going to the toad connector. I've replaced the cable and have signal all the way back to the diodes in the rear of my toad. My question, can diodes fail ? When my cable was crushed, all the wires were exposed and in contact with one another. Would this cause a short that would kill my diodes. Thanks for any help.
you betcha they can fail. lose the diodes and you lose your lights full time. had them fail twice in our '03 wrangler. never want to go thru that again so we had a second wiring harness and a second set of bulbs installed. when hooked to the MH the umbilical connects the second set of bulbs via the aux wire harness.
Have put off getting a new computer with Win 8.1, BUT old computer with Win 7 is dying, so can't wait for Win 10.
I will download "Classic Shell" and try to live with Win 8.1 that way until I can download Win 10.
So here are the questions:
1- Is it better to download "classic shell" BEFORE, I transfer all my settings/files from old computer, or AFTER?
2- What about other programs, such as Firefox, or Thunderbird, Before or After?
Any other suggestions for transfering my data? I will use Win easy transfer, unless there is a better way.
Thanks for your answers.
regardless of which OS you're updating only data files can be transferred...you need to re-install the programs those data files belong to.
if it were me the first thing I would do after purchasing a new Win 8 PC is to apply all outstanding critical and relevant important updates. then i would install image backup software such as Acronis Disk Image and make an image backup of the original OS onto an external hard drive. think of that backup as your disaster backup to be used in an extreme case.
then I would reinstall whatever programs you might have on the Win7 machine followed by transferring whatever data files you might have. once all of the programs have been checked to be sure that they are running well in the new environment, your printers are working, your network is working, etc. then I would download and apply the Classic Shell. once everything is working I would make another image backup onto the external hard drive. this will be your baseline backup.
I would continue to do new image backups as you add programs and data.
... I'd normally roll into Dothan around 6pm so that means I'd be hitting Montgomery between 3p and 4p. traffic was there but it usually flowed at the posted speed limits.
Traffic was not the problem. It was the EXTREMELY rough road that had everyone slowing down. I traveled through Montgomery twice in December 2013 on our way from Indiana to Panama City and back for Christmas vacaion. It was bumpy and threw us for a surprise considering the rest of I65 was very good through Alabama.
In December 2014 we did the same route back to Panama City for Christmas vacation. This time, I thought the trailer would disconnect from the truck it was so bouncy and rough. I don't mean gentle ocean waves bounces. I mean pot hole, gouging-swallow a car type pot hole bounces.. only not holes, rises in the road! One after another after another after another. At one point, I thought I was loosing control of the rig, and that's when I slowed to 35, and noticed not much was passing me either. Traffic was no problem. We traveled through during a non-rush hour time, it was the actual road.
Returning home, in December, we avoided I65 and came up I75 to I74 instead, through the edge of Cincinnati and back to central Indiana. There were NO rough spots at all on this route.
I also posted this comment..."The interstates thru Montgomery were no better or worse than any I've been on." That was my experience.
I know this is a loaded question, what is important to me is not important to you so basically I am seeking advice and ideas.
My wife and I will retire in Dec this year, we live in Ohio and I have a son in the military who is on his way to Tyndall AFB, in Panama City, FL (guess where Christmas 2015 is next year). Any way we have been planning a RV trip to Alaska for 6 years. So I am thinking Florida from Jan to mid March, west on a southern route (late March-mid April) and then north (mid-april-mid May) arriving at the Washington/Canada border about Memorial day. Travel to/from Alaska then arriving at Glacier NP around mid-September for the return trip south to Houston arriving mid November, where my other son will be living. Mid Nov-Mid Dec Houston then back to Florida for Christmas 2016 and then finally home after the spring thaw around April 2017.
Now here is the advise I need, What is the important stuff regarding papers, that I should carry with me "just in case". The obvious is auto insurance cards, policies, info on warranties/owners manuals for the RV, but what else?
Of course mail forwarding and banking on line will be established. We utilize a couple of banks, one being a national bank, and we have visa, discover, and AMEX credit cards.
Thanks for you help.
passports, rabies/vaccination papers for all pets. sounds like a great trip.
Stay away from Montgomery, Alabama. If you are traveling I65, you will probably NOT be able to get over 35 mph, the roads are horrible. Avoid Montgomery! Detour, go California if you if have to! You'll kick yourself if you drive through Montgomery! You'll get beat to death and your camper will shake every thing loose!
By-pass it, go around it, take some other roads, but avoid Montgomery!
Oh boy! You hit my worst nerve, my worst driving experience ever mentioning that city! And I thought Indiana interstates were horrible!
disagree. when my mom was alive I traveled from Chicago to SW Florida in a 35ft Class A pulling a Jeep wrangler at least once a year, the last trip in December 2013. combined length was roughly 55-feet.
my route was I-65 south from Nashville to I-85 in Montgomery then to US231 thru Troy, Ozark and Dothan. The interstates thru Montgomery were no better or worse than any I've been on. I always planned to overnight in Dothan which is roughly 2+ hours from Montgomery. I'd normally roll into Dothan around 6pm so that means I'd be hitting Montgomery between 3p and 4p. traffic was there but it usually flowed at the posted speed limits.
During our travels, we are able to go to Pilot/Flying J, Loves, etc. diesel truck lanes to fill up our truck. My main worry about filling up a Gas Class A is having to use the regular pumps as cars do. Tail swing appears troublesome. Does anyone have problems filling up with their Gas Class A?
Thanks in advance.
not normally. we're close to 55' between the MH and toad. we use the J RV lanes but in most "normal" gas stations we usually shoot for the outside lanes.
I'm switching from a 2008 Liberty to a 2015 Wrangler Rubicon. I''m not going to move my Liberty's brake system to the new Jeep, time for something new.
I need a new brake system -- what do you suggest, and why?
Factors: ease of installation (cuz that can become a crazy/expensive job), price to buy, and how well it does the job of applying brakes appropriately.
I'm aware of the main three types:
-- electric always in place, solenoid or similar pulls on brake pedal
-- electric move in/out of place, arm presses on brake pedal
-- mechanical surge brake, cable from tow bar pulls on brake pedal
If you are using a recent vintage brake system, especially on a recent vintage Wrangler (2007 or newer is the current JK chassis), I'd love to hear about it.
My rig is a gas coach so Air Force one or similar is not useable. I'll continue to use my BlueOx Aventa LX tow bar.
we use, like and recommend the Unified Tow Brake from US Gear.
I am talking about the TT parked at a CG or any parking place. The TT has the original (2014) antenna, the kind you... turn it up from inside . Thanks all.
you still need to get the antenna up in the air. the winegard batwing will crank-up about 3-4 feet above the RV roof. that's a start. being in a CG has its own issues. parked under a canopy of trees...your reception will suffer. the switch from analog to digital made tv reception in an RV worse. lots of reasons why and most of them you can't do anything about. make sure your amplifier is on and the antenna is up as high as it can get.
We are looking at extended service plans and not happy with the Good Sam quote. Are there any other options? Reliable companies?
We had one on our old coach from National Warranty of Florida, it was good, but then it ran out and we had Good Sam, which was only so-so. So now, on the new coach, they are insanely high and hoping we have other options.
what about National? did you try them? or, you could do as we did and that was to sock away the cost of the insurance plan and then add $X to that fund every month. we've been doing that since 2000 and have paid for all repairs (not many) as well as all regular maintenance out of that fund.
I have a nice flat screen TV mounted in my TT and some times it comes in perfect but sometimes when a truck or camper passes by I lose the reception for about 10 seconds then it comes back. Why is this ? Is there something I can do to the television or antenna to keep this from happening ? The TT has the factory antenna on it (not sure what kind )
get the antenna higher up in the air. sounds like this might be a 'Jack' antenna mounted close to the roof. anything between your antenna and the transmitter will cause the type of interference you describe.
I agree that the ISP is the most likely culprit. I never understand why people leave the ISP's page as their home page. There are many better alternatives since it can be any website. Google.com is a good start as it is clean and loads fast. Then you can go to whatever you want in your bookmarks/favorites.
ighome.com is another good one. customizable to boot.