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 > Your search for posts made by 'ron.dittmer' found 297 matches.

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RE: Seeking Help - Generator Won't Stay Running

Hi Everyone, OP Here. Thank you for all your replies. I have shared your comments with my brother. His plan is to finish his trip without a working generator and make the repairs himself after his return. After I posted my request for advise, he found an area RV repair center. The tech there said it was the voltage regulator (same diagnosis as some of your comments). He would have had the repair done there but it is a 2 week wait. Thanks again for all the quick replies!
ron.dittmer 05/17/19 06:29pm Class C Motorhomes
Seeking Help - Generator Won't Stay Running

My brother is texting me for advice. They are on a trip. His 2800 Onan starts and stays running until he lets go of the start switch. The same thing happens with both start switches, the on-gen and inside house remote panel. Main fuel tank is 3/4 full, gas cap off to assure no built up negative pressure. Anyone here have the same trouble and the solution?
ron.dittmer 05/17/19 11:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Koni FSD where to get besides Shockwarehouse

fourthclassC, Please take pictures of the Koni FSD with hardware, side by side with the shocks and hardware you removed. I would like to see the comparison. Ron Dittmer
ron.dittmer 05/16/19 05:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Side Mirrors

If your repair of the Velvac mirrors is a bust, consider the stock Ford E-Series black plastic, 2-rod telescoping & fold-in mirrors. They are NOT heated mirrors so keep that in-mind. If your rig is old and not worth throwing big money into, these are very affordable by comparison to new Velvacs. Search the internet for your best price. On the PC forum, an owner of a 2006 model year installed them and he is extremely pleased. His pictures looked real good. Making the point that these may not telescope out as far as your Velvac stuck out. So these would not be ideal for the widest of rigs. https://www.buyautoparts.com/data/all_images/3210211_1.jpg width=350 Our Velvac mirrors stick out exceptionally far, more than our 93" wide body needs. The only serious problem I have with them is that children are attracted to hanging on them. We quickly learned to fold them in when parked. https://live.staticflickr.com/2432/3743989153_b6411a139a_z.jpg width=640
ron.dittmer 05/15/19 11:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Koni FSD where to get besides Shockwarehouse

Hi fourthclassC You might find my experience with shocks interesting. Read about it with pictures by clicking HERE. In my write-up, I compared heavy duty Bilstein shocks to Koni-RV adjustable shocks.......not Koni-FSD shocks. There must be somewhere on the web comparing Koni-RV to Koni-FSD. Part of the matter concerns the mounting hardware, rubber bushings, washers, etc. BTW: I buy from Tire Rack all the time, most often tires, but also the HD Bilstein shocks. I am very happy with their customer service to purchase, and their support when something is wrong.
ron.dittmer 05/15/19 10:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: E350 vs E450 chassis pros and cons for a short 24 ft class C

I have kept "Very Accurate" records for many years of our E350 described below, towing our Jeep Liberty, our MR2 Spyder, and also without a tow vehicle. I calculate trip average from the moment we leave home to the time we return home. All trips involve lots of driving from the Chicago area to USA national parks and such. Most RV driving is highway, most local driving is with the tow vehicle when we bring it. Generator usage is NOT considered so actual mileage is better than stated. - 2007 E350-V10 DRW Super Duty chassis with 55 gallon fuel tank. - Aerodynamic B+ configuration with gently angled transition walls - Dimensions: 23'-8" long, 93" wide, 9'-10" to the top of the a/c unit Gas Mileage (5000-6000 miles driven per trip, practiced cruising speed ~67mph) 9.2 mpg towing Jeep Liberty 4x4 @ 4500 pounds 9.5 mpg towing Toyota MR2 Spyder @ 2200 pounds 10.5 mpg NOT towing I stopped monitoring of fuel economy because the numbers were so consistent from one trip to another. I learned what I needed to know and no longer track it.
ron.dittmer 05/14/19 02:14pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Phoenix Cruiser electric couch in slide.

Sandy, I hope your PC suits you perfectly. Your suspicion is correct in that model 2100 is limited in storage, both inside and outside. If travelling alone, you should be fine, but two people need to be very selective in what they bring along. Some people attach a weather-proof storage container to the rear hitch for extra storage, but that will increase the over-all length of the rig to model 2350. Just keep that in-mind. Keep us updated. Ron
ron.dittmer 05/14/19 09:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Phoenix Cruiser electric couch in slide.

Hi Sandy, Our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 does not have a sofa, but rather a dinette so I have no first-hand knowledge. With one exception, I understand every sofa Phoenix installed over the years, do NOT officially offer storage. It does not mean you can't tuck something under there. It's just not designed to store stuff. Sometime around 2010-2012, Phoenix replaced the old style jack-knife sofa with a more comfortable sofa bed which included a nice wide drawer underneath. The bed used a blow-up air mattress. It was all the rage with new owners, but the love affair didn't seem to last, primarily concerning the longevity and inconvenience of the air mattress. In the years that followed, Phoenix replaced the air bed sofa with a very comfortable duel recliner sofa that opens flat for sleeping. Various flavors of that concept continue to this day with never a complaint from PC owners. Hopefully someone with that type of sofa will comment regarding possible storage. If sofa bench storage is a very high priority for you, you could maximize storage through something home made. But it likely won't be as comfortable to sit on, and converting it into a bed could present even more challenges. Ron Dittmer
ron.dittmer 05/12/19 06:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class c under 25 feet w/ rear bed slide

Look at the Phoenix Cruiser 2351D. Unfortunately thislink shows a poor picture, but the basic concept appeals to us. We are currently looking into such a unit, but without the sofa and a dinette instead.Hi garmp, If keeping the driver-side slide out, but substituting the couch and pantry for a dinette, ask what are the over-all dimensions of the dinette are. It may be smaller than you think. To get a roomy dinette, you have to delete that slide out. renotse on the PC forum did just that for their 2552 and are extremely pleased with the results. They did order the dinette 32" wide instead of 36" wide to gain a little extra floor space. Look them up and ask them for some pictures.
ron.dittmer 05/10/19 07:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Salesman trying to talk me out of a Class C

The front of a class C (the van portion) is made to MTSB safety requirements, and made to be serviced by a typical mechanic. A typical class A, especially a front engine chassis is made to the cheapest standards possible as defined by the motor home company, and is not always serviceable without excessive disassembly of their substandard materials. That is why many service centers won't work on them.
ron.dittmer 05/09/19 10:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need the lowdown on Super C's

way2roll, I am telling you here more clearly now......... Go to a local dealer (or private party) who has a Tiffin Allegro Breeze and a Super C and have your wife test drive each. Get her in the driver seat and feel each one out. If she refuses to test drive a rig, then take it off your list. Our trips would be terrible if my wife would never take over when I need a break. It could eventually end up as a way of travel done no longer. As far as a Sprinter is concerned, I personally don't like the expensive baggage & maintenance that comes with the comfort, but people who have them, love them. So just maybe that is an option on your table. A Sprinter can't exceed around 25 feet in length so keep that in-mind.
ron.dittmer 05/09/19 09:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need the lowdown on Super C's

Hi way2roll, You had mentioned that you ruled out a diesel pusher because your wife would refuse to drive it. I would be concerned that a Super-C would be even worse for her. A class B+ is female-friendly, and the smaller the better. My wife is 5'-1" tall and is very comfortable driving our B+ because of it's domesticated feel and size. Our rig is also scaled-down by class-B+/C standards with a narrow and lower house body. PHOENIX USA makes them in 21 to 31 feet long. People full-time in them. But if a class B+/C is definitely off your list, there is something else that your wife may be comfortable driving. It is a diesel pusher, but is tiny by DP standards with a narrow body, lower height, and tight turning radius. It is called a TIFFEN ALLEGRO BREEZE. They look huge in the pictures but are not huge at all. Review their exterior dimensions and you will see what I mean. They really are small. They are smaller than many class Cs at only 95" wide and 11'-8" to the top of the a/c unit. They are made new today starting at 31.5 feet long, but if shorter is better for you, you can buy a discontinued used model 28BR which is only 29.5 feet long. They are well made as reflected in their new and used prices. They are surely worth a look. Your wife might really enjoy driving it, and maybe you will too. A Super-C chassis is a tow truck chassis. Think about it.
ron.dittmer 05/07/19 04:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: E350 vs E450 chassis pros and cons for a short 24 ft class C

You want GVWR 1500 to 2000 pounds more than empty weight of the RV. Much less than 1500, you tend to overload. A whole lot more than 2000 pounds, ride will be rougher unless you can load close to GVWR; it is not like air suspensions, which adjust actual spring weights to a ride height.Yep! When loaded up (your heaviest scenario) you want to be close to your chassis GVWR. Doing so will provide a reasonably comfortable and tolerable ride. Otherwise driving on poor road surfaces, it will feel like you are driving an empty box truck with loose houseware lying on the floor, and if you are not careful, you could chip a tooth or bite your tongue. Your cup holders will be useless because your drinks will never stay in your cups....maybe your cups will not stay in the holders. In such a case with a short & light weight RV house on an E450 chassis, get the springs modified to consider your actual load to get that smoother ride.
ron.dittmer 05/06/19 08:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Used Class C's? Rank your top five.

The extra cargo carrying capacity of the E550 would have permitted heavier water tanks, grey tanks, black tanks, propane tanks, and battery storage compartments - in a small footprint compact motorhome. The ride in the front of the E550 was probably pretty rough, though, because I think that the front springs were leaf springs.In many class B+ and C motor homes, typically it is the lack of physical space to provide larger tanks. You are right in that the front suspension of an E550 has leaf springs....just like a class A and Super C.
ron.dittmer 05/01/19 03:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best Used Class C's? Rank your top five.

In my book the E550 pictured places a motor home into a "Super-C" category....so much more heavy duty than an E450. I thought it was a great platform for the over-30-foot range.
ron.dittmer 04/29/19 02:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery recommendations

If you look at cost/amp hr I think it would be hard to beat the GC batteries from Sams Club or Costco.Reiterating what I mentioned earlier, I am extremely pleased with the Golf Car 6V AGM Duracell brand batteries from Sam's Club for $180 each. Yes they are twice the price. To-date they exceed both of my 12V wet acid battery experiences by a factor of two (so far) and continuing. There is also the benefit of never a worry about acid levels and acid boil-overs, or corroded battery terminals. The only maintenance I do with them is charge them when my volt meter reads in the 12.1v to 12.3v range. 5 years so-far so-good. It was one of the best improvements I made to our rig since we bought it new in 2007.
ron.dittmer 04/29/19 02:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2014 coachman freelander

Hi Phil from Ohio, This is a very long "read" but I think you will find it interesting and applicable to the rigs you are considering. Ron Dittmer ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road. Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is. When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home. #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best) NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans. #2 SECOND BEST Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA. Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for. a) Structural Seams Away From Corners When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas. b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work. There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion Here is a fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie and the Nexus Phantom utilize a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful. c) A Crowned Roof Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons. d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected. e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together. Don't be fooled. There are a select few manufactures who add rear wall sectional styling pieces over an entry level rear corner seam design which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. Bigger Will Be Weaker The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice. Potentially Troublesome Construction Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner. There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best About The Chassis The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. Also within this past year is the recent introduction of the Ford Transit. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter & Transit will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. If considering a current-day “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine - Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically. - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room. - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride. - A grander view out the windshield - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to. Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight. - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load. - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability. - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping. - This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues. You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. A few manufactures like Phoenix USA offer their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E-Series. You can even special order a Phoenix Cruiser E-Series 4x4. There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years on the Sprinter and most recently on the new Ford Transit. The Ford Transit Chassis This chassis has the potential to dominate the class B+ & C motor home market in the smaller sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a much lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. It's more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access. The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market. The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room. The Ford E350 & E450 The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced. Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds) Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand. CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an unknown brand. CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things to consider.
ron.dittmer 04/28/19 12:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: E350 vs E450 chassis pros and cons for a short 24 ft class C

The 55-gallon tank was an option on the E-350 and most folks wisely optioned for that vs the 40-gallon standard tank. I love the extra range and fueling {vs price} options it gives us.The 55 gallon tank is also useful when boondocking for extended periods because the generator uses the same fuel from that tank. Even with our 55 gallon fuel tank, we fuel up near our destination to have more fuel on-hand to run our generator. In a few places, it would be "testy" with a 40 gallon tank.
ron.dittmer 04/28/19 11:49am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery recommendations

The original chassis battery in my first motor home lasted 11 years. The original chassis battery in my second motor home lasted half that. Go figure. I always replace my vehicle batteries when it starts to give me trouble.....after the first non-influenced jump-start.
ron.dittmer 04/25/19 06:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: E350 vs E450 chassis pros and cons for a short 24 ft class C

Fully loaded for travel what would be the approximate weight of 24 ft Class C. I roll at 12,500-12,700 with approx. 50 gals of on board water. 24 ft 2018 Sunseeker on top of a Ford E450 Our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 on a 2007 E350 with no slide out and 40 gallons of on-board water, it measures exactly 23'-8" end to end. Pending the trip, it weighs between 11,200 and 11,480 pounds. That one trip we had gotten extremely close to the chassis limit of 11,500. I run the tires all around at 70 psi. The quality of ride is nice, though the rear end sags a bit as shown. https://live.staticflickr.com/4038/5161179007_8d1fdc6468.jpg width=500 There are two contributers to the sag. 1) Our 40 gallon fresh water tank is in the worst place possible, against the back wall. If I didn't carry water, that would help the condition a lot. 2) With all the weight in the back like that, the front axle is light. One spring rating lower (now 11500, thinking 10050) would bring the front down a bit and then our rig could go back to the stock center bushings. It's sits up so high that the alignment required offset bushings.
ron.dittmer 04/24/19 01:02pm Class C Motorhomes
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