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 > Your search for posts made by 'ron.dittmer' found 233 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Class C built in propane tank.

I would remove the tank and evaluate it's structural condition. If the rust is everywhere but superficial in penetration, I would find a local shop to sandblast it to bare metal. Before giving it to them, first remove all valves and hardware and cap all holes that enter the tank, maybe using the old parts to cap the holes. Once it is back home, brush and roll on a coat of clean metal primer and two coats of paint. I trust the Rustoleum brand most. Then install all new valves and such. In theory, the cost for rebuilding the tank properly doing it yourself with consideration for the sandblasting process, will be very affordable. In my mind, that would be doing it right. Or spend that $500 on a new propane tank that likely has variations from your 22 year old original one, making an the installation full of compromises.
ron.dittmer 04/08/20 07:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

I have lots of carbureted 4-cycle engines around the house from an 18hp lawn tractor to an 8hp roto-tiller, to a 10hp snow blower. I never have trouble with them sitting around for extended periods. I apply the same to my 4-cycle Onan which also never gives me trouble. I just don't understand why everyone else has so much trouble with their Onan sitting without starting so frequently. It must have something to do with sitting outdoors, or they don't know how to prime it after so long of a period. Mine 4-cycle engines are all stored indoors which I am sure is influential, but still.........
ron.dittmer 04/05/20 08:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

On the prime switch. I don't it will work from the start inside, you have to do that from the start switch on the generator itself.Interesting comment. I can prime from inside my motor home using the start switch backwards. If you are not setup for it, then most definitely pull the cover off the Onan and do it there. I would never be able to start my Onan after a long hibernation, if not for the process of extended priming.
ron.dittmer 04/05/20 10:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

Hi CodyClassB, I did not read through all the replies, so maybe this was covered. Before spending a penny, before taking the rig in for generator service, first try these two things. #1 - On your Onan, set the altitude adjustment to the proper altitude. It looks like this. https://live.staticflickr.com/7855/47506524422_4e746c0e7f_z.jpg width=640 #2 - Many people don't know how to properly work the "prime" feature. At your generator control panel, be very quiet. To prime the generator, you must push in the start switch in, but in the opposing direction (it is a rocker switch). HOLD it there and listen for any kind of sound. It would be the sound of the fuel pump running. If you hear nothing, have a family member press and hold it while you are outside under your Onan. If you don't hear any hum or buzzing sound, then your fuel pump is not working. Check fuses and such. If your hear a hum or buzz, then your fuel pump works. Then make sure your main fuel tank is at least 1/2 full. People don't realize how long they need to hold in the prime button to get fuel from the main fuel tank to their Onan. Each rig is different pending the distance between them. Prime, prime, prime. I advise to do as I do. Hold in the prime button for 15 seconds the first time and then try to start the Onan. If nothing happens, hold the prime button in for 10 seconds thereafter and repeat until it starts. I never ever run my generator during the off season. I put the rig away in the fall and start everything up in the spring time. A few years, our rig will sit an extra year, and everything always starts right up. I do maintain the batteries during off season. This has been my practice with our rig for 13 years. We do store our rig indoors in a climate controlled environment which I am sure makes some difference. But I never understood all the talk about monthly start-ups and such, though some necessity if the rig is stored in the worst of conditions.
ron.dittmer 04/04/20 07:55am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solved: Vibration while accelerating issue

Thank you SuperD for that great report.
ron.dittmer 04/04/20 07:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wheel Lugs

Wow, I never check them, never thought of doing so on any vehicle I own.
ron.dittmer 03/24/20 06:34am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass Repair Help

Yes, I also noticed this is a very old thread. But to comment for the sake of others........ We bought this motor home pictured below, brand new in 1983 and sold it in 2007. Over the years, it developed cracks exactly like the OP shared, some formed right away. While under warranty the first year, I called the manufacture who said the cracks were only cosmetic. They were willing to fix them for me but said they would likely return, so I did nothing. I was glad I did nothing. The rig was fine (with more cracks) even the day we sold it 24 years later. The patchwork would have been ugly compared to leaving it alone. So my advise is to do nothing. https://live.staticflickr.com/3527/3729396233_56dba3b92a_z.jpg width=640
ron.dittmer 03/22/20 10:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Passenger Side Air Bags on 1998 Ford E-350 Chassis

I STRONGLY feel the safest place for a child in a class C motor home is in the passenger seat......NOT anywhere in the house because the Ford cab is designed with consideration to crash-integrity. The house is not. Cabinetry and contents will injure house occupants. Seating the child in the passenger seat also makes for a much more pleasant trip. They see so much more sitting there, and your conversation with them and pointing out things to them is priceless. Assuming a 1998 E-Series has a passenger-side air bag, I also agree that you need to disable it to seat a child there. The first place to look is in your 1998 E-Series owners manual. If there is no mention of disabling the air bag (I think there is no provision for 1998 model year) then you need to resort to plan-B......unplug the passenger air bag by hand. Look up from bellow for the connector and simply unplug it. Hopefully it is reachable without too much disassembly. But BEFORE unplugging the passenger air bag, FIRST disconnect both your chassis battery and house battery and wait an hour before attempting it. I include the house battery in-case there happens to be a back-voltage present. Waiting the hour allows time for capacitor-held power to drain. Then it is very safe to unplug the passenger air bag. The actual wait time in most vehicles is one minute, but being a 1998 motor home, just wait an hour to play it safest.
ron.dittmer 03/22/20 09:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sagging headliner

time2roll, You are correct. In my case with my motor home's interior, I would have needed to remove everything, furnishings and all because the material was throughout including the inside of the cabinetry. Then peel off the material, and then with a metal bristle brush, remove 100% of the foam, both crumbled and good, then attach brand new foam-backed head-liner material with a contact adhesive on both the foam and interior wall surfaces. It is the same process as restoring a headliner but on a much much bigger scale. Adding the complexity of so many different surfaces converging, there were finished seams to deal with. It would have been so much for anyone to deal with. That is one of a few reasons why we decided to sell the rig. I also looked into a spray-on bed liner material, something much more durable but tan colored, not black. The cost of that option was tremendous.
ron.dittmer 03/16/20 08:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sagging headliner

Our 1984 Toyota Mirage had the "bed curtain" thing going on. It all came down during the course of one trip. The foam backing turned to dust and just let go all at once. We sold the rig like that. Fortunately there were cabinet and trim features that held most of it in acceptable condition, but not well enough in the cab-over area. Here are a few pics I took for the sale ad. https://live.staticflickr.com/3436/3729397191_e1f5471cc6_z.jpg width=640 https://live.staticflickr.com/2540/3730195862_65bf543c23_z.jpg width=640
ron.dittmer 03/12/20 10:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 12v house battery replacement

Sam's Club has a Group 31 AGM Marine/RV battery on right now for $160 !That is a very interesting consideration. I wonder what it's physical dimensions are. A quick search, I found this.......Group 31 batteries are approximately 13" x 6-13/16" x 9-7/16"
ron.dittmer 03/09/20 12:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 12v house battery replacement

Hi Bigcheezuz, I agree with Desert Captain getting a pair of 6V-AGM batteries as long as your battery compartment can handle their taller height. We went through two pairs of 12V wet acid batteries over the years with our Phoenix Cruiser. Each pair lasted only 3 years and their performance decreased significant with each year. I decided to replace the second tired set with a pair of 6V-AGM batteries. That was in the spring of 2015. Five years so far and their performance continues to be excellent. I bought the 6V-AGM Duracell-brand batteries from Sams Club for $180 each, but I wonder if they discontinued that battery because I can't find them any longer on Sams Club's website. Doing a quick search, I found Batteries Plus selling the Magna Power 6V-AGM for $275 which is a lot more than Sams Club. CLICK HERE to see the battery on their website. Order on-line and pick-up at your local store for a 10% discount. I would consider one 12V or two 6V lithium batteries, but our on-board Tripp-Lite charger/converter/inverter does not handle lithium technology.....and I really like our Tripp-Lite.
ron.dittmer 03/09/20 01:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: toad versus no toad

Thanks for all the comments. You have convinced me. We will bring the toad for sure.Wise decision! Once you have secured a campsite in or near our country's national parks and monuments, you will be so very happy you brought your Jeep. We live near Chicago and focus on national parks and such. One year heading out west, we left our Jeep Liberty home thinking we wouldn't need it much. That turned out to be a very bad idea. Now it doesn't matter where we go, our Liberty always comes along. In our particular situation per my signature, towing our Liberty drops our fuel economy by 1 mpg. But we make it up by leaving the motor home at the campsite and drive the Liberty around at our destinations.
ron.dittmer 03/06/20 06:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Paint underneath holding tank to protect the plastic?

I don't recommend painting a plastic tank to avoid the potential of solvents in the paint reacting with the plastic, either softening it or making it brittle.
ron.dittmer 03/03/20 09:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Compact Class C

Phoenix CruiserX2 We own model 2350 that is 23'-8" long, end-to-end for model year 2007. We've had it 13 years now. They are still made today though a few inches longer now. CLICK HERE to see many pictures of it, inside and outside.
ron.dittmer 02/27/20 06:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5.4 E350 performance and reliability?

I assume the one you chose has the V10 engine. In general, you can't go wrong with a Winnebago brand class C built on a Ford E-Series or Chevy chassis, especially in the shorter lengths. There are so many worse choices out there with regards to general quality of construction of the house itself.
ron.dittmer 02/26/20 02:40pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5.4 E350 performance and reliability?

Thanks. I'm going to do a hard pass on any rig with 5.4. I'd really like to see the new 7.3 Ford V-8 gasser, which has some significant suspension upgrades. Not sure when we will be seeing it.I agree in that I would pass on a 5.4L unless the rig was exceptionally small. A standard class-C WB-22R is not small enough for my liking, especially if towing. As far as the new push-rod 7.3 engine is concerned. If history has value, the first few years of most new engines will not be as reliable as the engine it is replacing. Consider the V10 spark plug ejection issue that was finally put to rest in 2004. It's been an excellent engine for the past 16 years. But to contradict myself, I would rather have the 1st year V10, than the last year of the V8 it replaced. Still, if buying in the next few years, I would consider the V10 over the new V8, only because the V10 with all it's supporting peripherals has had an excellent reliability record for so many years.
ron.dittmer 02/25/20 08:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5.4 E350 performance and reliability?

One question I would ask is......What size is the fuel tank? Some 5.4L's are equipped with a 35 gallon fuel tank. That would be a deal breaker for me. I need a 55 gallon tank to properly support the generator along with driving to a remote location. I don't like worrying about fuel if I can avoid it by having a 55 gallon fuel tank.
ron.dittmer 02/23/20 07:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: E450 Insulated RV Windshield Cover

For cold camping conditions, we do the following with our E350 cab area. I can't say to what rating it's good for, but it works for our particular rig to a low of around 28 degrees F. - set the climate control in the dash to "recirculate" - cover windshield and door glass with pop-open sunshades, but custom-fit insulated shades would be much better - drape and tuck a comforter over and around the two front seats, creating a sealed and insulated barrier to trap the cold air in the cab - when 110v is available, we place a small cube heater on the floor near the cab and blow the warm air rearward towards the house interior. - not related to the cab, but we also draw the shades in the house Our interior is small, has no slide-outs, has a lower ceiling, has thermal pane insulated glass, and a well sealed entry door. General air leakage and radiated cold is less with the quality build of our rig which further helps with interior comfort. With everything considered, the main house furnace operates much more efficiently. At bedtime we close the bedroom curtain to trap bedroom heat. The thermostat inside the enclosed area then works off that trapped heat with us inside it, further reduces furnace cycling which reduces our concern for battery and propane usage. CLICK HERE to see our rig's interior and curtain. The curtain is thin but helps a lot.
ron.dittmer 02/19/20 06:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Issues with Tow/Haul mode

If you disconnect both your chassis and house batteries overnight, the hard-reset might place Tow-Haul mode into "off" by default. Make sure your trans fluid is at the proper level. If any is needed, MAKE SURE you add the right kind. Don't add just any generic trans fluid. All Ford trans require a specific trans fluid. I would not worry about the situation because it sounds normal, especially after a cold start. Just take it out of Tow-Haul before putting the shifter in drive. I wish our 2007 E350-V10 had your problem, Tow-Haul "on" by default. I say this because the weight of our rig with tow vehicle is in a Tow-Haul mode scenario 100% of the time, easily 15,000 pounds combined vehicle weight. Many years ago when our rig was a few years old, I called my local Ford dealer inquiring if they could program the Tow-Haul to be on by default. They said "no". So....I put the trans in Tow-Haul mode right away, every dang time I remember.
ron.dittmer 02/17/20 09:00pm Class C Motorhomes
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