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 > Your search for posts made by 'swimmer_spe' found 112 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
Propane fridge ticking when turned off

Walking by my RV today, I heard a ticking coming from the back of the fridge. The propane has been turned off, as well as the knob inside has been turned to off for a few weeks. The fridge is a Dometic Americana 2 way fridge. Why is it clicking if it is in the off position? How do I fix it?
swimmer_spe 10/07/21 10:18pm Tech Issues
RE: I think I have a bad battery.

The problem may be because deionized water was used in place of distilled water. They are not the same. As a professional who actually deals with deionized and distilled water.... I would really like to discuss this. Distilled water is water that is reconstituted from boiling water to remove everything but water. Deionizing water is several mechanical and chemical processes which removes all but the water atoms. They are virtually the same water in the end, just a different process to get it.
swimmer_spe 08/10/21 04:34pm Tech Issues
RE: I think I have a bad battery.

Likely it is a doorstop. Here is what might be tried. 1. measure the voltage. If it is below 10 volts. Stop and use it for a core exchange. 2. if the voltage is ok, then barely cover the plates, and attempt to charge the battery at a low amp rate. 3. after the battery has charged for quite some time (24 hours), let it rest for 24 hours and check the voltage. If it is 12.5 or higher, then check the plates to make sure they are covered, and do an equalization charge. But very likely #1 will be the path to follow. It is old and a starting deep cell battery. No love loss on it.
swimmer_spe 08/09/21 11:04pm Tech Issues
RE: I think I have a bad battery.

Careful with that axe Eugene!! You likely overfilled the water. Then charged the battery indoors. No mention of voltage. No mention of charge amps. For real man be careful or take a few minutes to read up on charging wet cell batteries. You probably sat in the garage inhaling some nasty fumes. I have one of those smart chargers that go between 2/4/6 amps. I did not fill it to the brim; about 1/4 inch down. I also wasn't in the garage any longer than enough to figure out the smell was the battery.
swimmer_spe 08/09/21 11:03pm Tech Issues
I think I have a bad battery.

I think I have a bad battery. I topped up the battery with deionzed water, set it up to charge in my garage on a wooden bench. The next day, I noticed a rotten egg smell and the case of the battery was warm. I stopped charging it. Would I be correct in thinking the battery is bad? Am I right there is no reasonable way to bring it back? Good thing I have an extra one.
swimmer_spe 08/09/21 08:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Tongue jack clicking

Could be the slipper clutch let go. It limits the power of the motor by slipping, while you are the limiting factor with the hand crank. If I weren't using it within a week from now, I'm guessing it's fixable.
swimmer_spe 07/18/21 08:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Tongue jack clicking

Wouldn’t the motor still spin? It is still spinning, but the jack isn't going down. You said clicking. The motor is spinning, but the jack does not go down. When I press the button, the motor sounds normal, but there is a clicking noise like I have hit the end of the jack.
swimmer_spe 07/18/21 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Tongue jack clicking

Wouldn’t the motor still spin? It is still spinning, but the jack isn't going down.
swimmer_spe 07/18/21 07:32pm Tech Issues
Tongue jack clicking

I am not sure what kind I have, but it looks like a lippet. Going up or down, it only clicks. I was able to crank it by hand. On Monday, I will be going in search of a new one. The jack is at least 5 years old, as that is a long as I have owned the trailer. Any idea why it would just click with power, but by hand, it would still go down? No bolts are loose, and the battery is good.
swimmer_spe 07/18/21 05:48pm Tech Issues
Chasing the green monster away

I swapped out a battery for a new one. The old one is fine, but I needed an extra Deep Cell battery, so I figure I'd put the new one on my trailer. For some reason, it would not work. Then I saw the Green Monster - corrosion. The +ve connectors were covered in corrosion under it, so out of view. I ave cleaned them and now it works well. So, now I am wondering whether I should replace those connectors, or if there is something else I can do to keep the Green Monster away.
swimmer_spe 07/15/21 08:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Armoured extension cord

I’m confused…but good luck in your solution. Is this a statement of current condition or an ongoing problem? ;) Little of both! Lol But now mostly confused that the OP appears to have power at the ready, or almost at the ready right where he wants it… Pic is worth 1000 words, literally, for this query. OP here. I didn't want it permanent. However, it seems that putting in an outlet is the cheaper option.
swimmer_spe 07/05/21 04:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Armoured extension cord

Oh perfect!! You already have wire run in conduit over there. You should be able to get a standard 15a receptacle on that. Depending on conduit size he might be able to pull thicker wire and give you a 30a setup. If you ever wanted to run heaters and stuff come winter 30a would be awesome. If you post a picture of your service panel people here might be able to give advice on what to do. It could be really easy to put that outside junction box on its own 15 or 20a breaker. So its not sharing power with the house. I had to do that back home. We plug the trailer into the garage outlets. But it kept tripping the breaker. So i gave 1 outlet its own dedicated 20a breaker. The breaker was already there. Just had to swap wires around. Ideally that outside junction box is already on its own circuit. Like you said it will be cheap to add an outlet right there. Have you pulled the cover and taken a peek? Hopefully its not low voltage wire for outdoor lighting. If it looks like speaker wire then he will have to pull new wire. The junction box does not seem to have a 3rd pop out spot. I may need a new one. The power is on it's on breaker at the panel. There is also a power shut off in line, so isolating it is easy enough. It has been opened, and it is 120v heavy gauge wire.
swimmer_spe 07/04/21 08:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Armoured extension cord

OP here. I have a junction box on that side of the driveway. I'm going to call an electrician and have them wire up an outside plug there. After hearing the options, I feel it is the best solution, and it won't cost much.
swimmer_spe 07/03/21 08:38am Tech Issues
RE: Armoured extension cord

What material is your driveway made from, hard surface, asphalt (blacktop) concrete , the above suggestions are great, gravel stone etc, uneven, then questionable especially if there are tire depressions. Ken Packed gravel and there are tire depressions.
swimmer_spe 07/01/21 08:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Armoured extension cord

No such thing exists and if it did would be more expensive than your RV. The closest thing to armored cable that I can think of is this https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41oxZ0efcML._AC_SL1000_.jpg height=50 width=300 "BX" cable, but, it is not designed for and cannot be used for outdoor use, it is not designed to be run over.. Find a different route such as overhead or take it the long way around or bury conduit under the driveway and run some wire through the conduit and terminate to a RV outlet. You could also try cord protectors that look like this.. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/612E%2BbXKSjL.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg height=400 width=300 https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91cb3U5Oq1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg height=400 width=300 That one is rated for 22,000 lbs but it is expensive for a 40" length.. Found HERE for $52.00 Those covers might be a better way to go.
swimmer_spe 07/01/21 08:01pm Tech Issues
Armoured extension cord

I need an armoured extension cord to power my RV at home, but I need it to cross the driveway, so it will be run over by the vehicles. Any suggestions?
swimmer_spe 07/01/21 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Filling the water tank at home

I am the OP. I am also a stationary engineer. Pure water is partly my domain, but there are water specialists that make sure our water is perfect. The tests for boiler water is different than the tests for drinking water. Someone say Boiler Deaerator? How do I make my signature say I'm no expert but I play one on the internet? ... won't get the pH up. And, still doesn't deal with the sediment.
swimmer_spe 06/29/21 09:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Filling the water tank at home

"stationary engineer", heh I was trained as a machinist mate in the USN which is the equivalent and went to Reactor Operator and Engineering Lab Tech before going back to school post Navy. I also worked in a utility with 2200 psi boilers. And boiler water has all sorts of boiler treatment chemicals in it, phosphates, probably some organics like morpholine or cyclohexylamine and so on depending on the unit pressure. Now feedwater is pure until you load it up with chemicals. Yes you need to be concerned with what but what I would put into a boiler or reactor is not what I would drink...heh. Admiral Rickover picked up a beacker of water of some kind and drank it down, on TV, claiming it was reactor water. LOL what a liar, the barium or Lithium Hydroxide might have produced some gastrointestinal fireworks plus the stuff is mildly radioactive. In non glow-in-the-dark boilers, I would not put the water in my tap into them. I would also not drink boiler water. My concern still is whether the sediment build up should be a concern. I usually only drain the tank to winterize.
swimmer_spe 06/29/21 09:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Filling the water tank at home

Do tell, there is no lab test in Standard Methods for the Examination of Water called "Test for Toxins". Who told you that, the Culigan man? There are tests for things known to be toxic, but no respectable water person would use toxin. Water person?! I guess I'm one and if someone wants a test for 'toxins' I would say which one there are thousands or hundreds of thousands probably. You could do a GC/MS (gas chromatography/Mass Spectrography) scan which pick up -organic molecules- in the sample but you are talking serious money per test, over $1000 each for a walk in customer. And you'd have to add a lot of other general chemical and biological analysis to cover the more likely possibilities. But there is no test for toxins the term is nebulous and like a fog bank blowing in the wind. No you go in and buy an analysis for specific compounds 2,4 dichlorobenzene for example. That's why I asked if it was the Culigan man, those water softener salesmen have a certain reputation amoung environmental chemists and it aligns with RV salesmen. They will do their worst to use the anal extraction method to make up lies to scare people into buying their junk. But yes we are far off subject. If the OP wants to fill his gut with lake water, that's fine with me. It's his gut after all. I am the OP. I am also a stationary engineer. Pure water is partly my domain, but there are water specialists that make sure our water is perfect. The tests for boiler water is different than the tests for drinking water.
swimmer_spe 06/29/21 08:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Filling the water tank at home

Do tell, there is no lab test in Standard Methods for the Examination of Water called "Test for Toxins". Who told you that, the Culigan man? There are tests for things known to be toxic, but no respectable water person would use toxin.
swimmer_spe 06/29/21 08:10pm Tech Issues
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