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 > Your search for posts made by 'ticki2' found 242 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Don't know if I could swing it but I sure would like to see wild and wonderful Wyoming . The north west has eluded me so far .
ticki2 05/05/15 03:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Everything Was Going So Well.....Until It Wasn't

It is sooo nice to be pleasantly surprised these days . Best of luck
ticki2 05/05/15 06:56am Truck Campers
RE: Lance 855s on a Sierra 2500

I don't have a HD..... Thanks again! The regular 2500 is significantly less truck than a 2500HD , including the frame . I think the 855 is going to punish your 2500 , even with upgrades . JMHO , good luck
ticki2 05/04/15 09:39pm Truck Campers
RE: diesel to gasoline truck for TC: any regrets?

First some background. We had a GMC LB7 for about 150K miles. It was a great truck BUT for the diesel issues. I never had to change injectors, but it was coming, the emission tests clearly showed where things were going. Finally we had trouble on a trip and the news was not good. The repair quotes were from $11.5K to $15K. That is the value of the truck Rick Since I have a similar LB7 , could I ask what kind of repair you needed for 11.5k to 15k ?
ticki2 05/03/15 06:56am Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

This is what found to replace the door weather strip , it matches the original pretty close . It has held up good for 5 years now and seals well . https://absupply.net/detail.aspx?ID=32927
ticki2 05/02/15 02:04pm Truck Campers
RE: collectors

STUFF I think might become useful . Years ago when we had a town dump my DW refused to let me go alone and started riding shotgun . Some years back it changed to a transfer station and she feels a lot safer .:(
ticki2 05/01/15 06:23pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 3. Structure and New Wood

IIRC there was also a decorative header spanning the opening to the bed area between the cabinets , if fastened securely it will add strength to the roof arch . I would curve the bottom of the front and rear sky light opening headers to match the curvature of the roof to make good contact and take any strain off the paneling . Other than that I don't see any structural problem . You haven't said , or I missed it , what you plan to put on the roof opening .
ticki2 05/01/15 05:42pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 12. Waste Water

Yep , that's it . Nice job
ticki2 05/01/15 01:37pm Truck Campers
RE: Propane leak

I have found that if the tank valves are not fully open they can sometimes leak . Time for some leak testing before throwing parts at it . It could be a number of things .
ticki2 04/29/15 01:12pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 12. Waste Water

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/davezen1225/Travel%20Queen%20Truck%20Campers/Resto%20Mod%2012%20Waste%20Water/20150428_172034_zpswmis44ba.jpg This might be too late after the fact but for this application you could have made the whole pipe and trap assembly up with glued 1-1/2" sch 40 and just had the black 90 at the bottom and a black coupling at the top , all 1-1/2" . It would still be removable as a unit .
ticki2 04/29/15 01:01pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 4. Bathroom Remodel

The next thing I tried was a stub out including elbow, using a reverse installed street elbow, it spun in without disturbing the tank. I had to remove the door catch and re-install it, but otherwise, a slick job. This photo shows the end result, a much better final design than anything else I've tried. http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u423/davezen1225/Travel%20Queen%20Truck%20Campers/Resto%20Mod%204%20Bathroom/20150428_150758_zpsh6udxwxl.jpg I'm now going to move the discussion over to "Waste Water" to finish up this subject and today's post. That looks about as clean and functional as you can get , nice job . I've never seen a stopper like that , interesting .
ticki2 04/29/15 11:13am Truck Campers
RE: Avion camper rebuilds - hundreds of photos

Howdy! D is back! Looks great, down right OEM. Citristrip is the product you need to get the tape gum off. The airstream dudes recommended it; I used it to strip the Zolatone off the interior and I used it to do just as you need on the exterior. Its fairly safe, and do not worry, it won't damage the anodization. I had to call about the other C-10. He has owned it for 14 years, wonderfull camping memories, partial rebuild, bought in Peoria, Indiana, and gets as many looks and questions as the rest of us. Just another Brother Avionista. Question: Does anyone have TV mounting suggestions? I'm not sure the new panels are anodized , mine had an electro-paint finish . You might want to test the citristrip on a scrap first . Looking good D I'm curious about the TV mounting also
ticki2 04/28/15 06:46pm Truck Campers
RE: Carrying a Spare out front

My front hitch is homemade to work with a snowplow mount so it won't be of much help to you . Several hitch manufacturers make front hitches and tire carriers . I think it is also covered in TC university at the beginning of this forum .
ticki2 04/28/15 12:49pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 4. Bathroom Remodel

Had to smile when I saw that homemade basin nut , that's something I would do . Just a tip . Mobile home plumbing fittings are usually the same as camper fittings . Some hardware stores carry them. Here is something that might work even better for your tail piece , I think if you unscrew the vent the threads will be the same as your drain fitting so you wind up with a tail piece and nut all in one . http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=135950&Category_Code=MP Question , does the stopper for the drain screw in or push in ?
ticki2 04/28/15 12:21pm Truck Campers
RE: Carrying a Spare out front

I carry the spare up front on my 2002 Dmax and have not had any overheat issues . Mid year in 2004 the Dmax went from the LB7 to the LLY version . Some LLy's experienced overheat problems under load . If you have an LLY and have not had the problem then you are good to go . I would NOT put a tire cover on it .
ticki2 04/28/15 11:31am Truck Campers
RE: Front Window pros and cons

I really like being able to look out all four sides when I'm in the camper . In the morning after looking out it gives me the option of rolling over or making coffee . Camper is 47 years old and no front window leaks , near as I can tell it was never re-caulked .
ticki2 04/27/15 06:44pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 4. Bathroom Remodel

ticki2 - this quote goes way back, but I'd like to get your thoughts on a couple of things you bring up here. Dave , I can relate to how you think your way through a process . If I become annoying with comments just tell me to back off . I have not had good luck with the nut and washer type traps that you show for the shower . They tend to loosen with vibration . If you want the flexibility of taking apart without cutting a fernco fitting works better . I also don't think it's a good idea to reduce down for a shower . I didn't read any mention of a vent for the grey tank . With the shower drain and top of the grey tank being so close in elevation I will be interested to hear if there is any back up into the shower driving with a full grey tank . I have a similar situation and have not come to a resolve yet . Fernco Trap: Using one of these instead of the nut and plastic washer still leaves a nut and washer for the downstream connection to the plumbing, what do they call that? A wall adapter? At the residential rough-in location? How do you deal with that? One idea I'm having is to NOT use a Fernco Trap, but instead, a glued trap that uses a Fernco coupler at both up and downstream connections, eliminating all nuts and washer. Reducing down to 1.25": I appreciate those comments, but one thought is - that reduction might not matter TOO much in a short distance with a minimal water use flow, but MIGHT aid in the "slosh back" with a full tank? Slosh Back: Do you think the combo of both a trap (1.5" p-trap even a waterless trap as you've suggested too - which uses a flapper valve apparently) and an o-ring sealing tub/shower stopper might control this? Grey Tank Vent: The tank is vented. It's downstream of the galley sink trap, so that should work well. The bath sink is also vented, but upstream of the bath sink trap so that will aid the basin, but not other fixtures. Do you think the first vent described will aid the shower drain? I'm thinking yes, but maybe haven't thought it through fully. Minimal Drain Elevation: There is 2.75" between the bottom inside surfaces of the shower drain elbow and the tank entry fitting. That is the distance from inside pipe bottom to inside pipe bottom. Do you think a p-trap will cause a drain problem due to its nature (drainage dropping below the entry into the tank) and a waterless might work better? I've wondered about the benefits between the two styles for the two issues of 1-minimal elevation and 2-slosh back. One the one hand, slosh back may be better controlled with water in a p-trap and o-ring at the drain stopper, due to the waterless trap flapper valve bouncing while under way. But if it allows seepage past it, the o-ring may catch that portion, and on the next turn/stop/acceleration the water will drain back down through the flapper. But on steep down hills will it push past both? Of course at those times most of the waste water weight will bypass a slosh back tendency just due to the position of the shower drain entry into the back portion of the tank. Thanks for any thoughts you have on this. Dave , I posted your picture to use as reference , I'm not very good at computer wizardry as you can tell . My thought on the shower drain was to come out of the shower fitting with a straight tail piece and connect a fernco 1-1/2" trap . At the tank end come out with a stub pipe and connect a fernco ell . Then make up a pipe with an ell on one end to connect to the trap ( making it a P shape trap ). That would make all the connections with fernco's , no nuts and washers , and easy to disassemble . You mention using 1-1/4" drain because of low water usage and this could very well be , but since the shower drain is 1-1/2 and the tank is 1-1/2 , why not keep it all one size . I don't think it will affect the sloshing one way or the other . If you have one vent path for the grey tank that should be sufficient , no need for multiples . The sloshing problem is only when underway . When set up level and stationary all the sloping of pipes and elevations of drains and tanks makes sense . Once moving over uneven roads , up and down and side to side , all of that is out the window . Since I don't have my shower drain connected to my grey tank as yet , it has not been a problem . More and more I have been thinking of using a plumbers test plug in the shower drain when traveling , they come in a number of sizes . have not tried the waterless type trap so don't know how good it will work , especially under mobile conditions . You could be the first in your neighborhood .:D My general philosophy is anything with moving parts is more prone to failure . Hope this helped more than hindered .
ticki2 04/27/15 12:03pm Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 4. Bathroom Remodel

ticki2 04/27/15 11:20am Truck Campers
RE: Hauling an extra propane tank

When you say camper I am assuming TC i.e. truck camper. Inside not a good idea and like posted on the rear would also be dangerous. There are so many places now that fill tanks probably no need for the extra tank. Why not inside the camper? Isn't that essentially where the tank(s) are on most TCs? How about strap it to the roof? Then it's completely out of the way until u need it. On its side wouldn't be taller than the air conditioner. My understanding is that vertical tanks are to be transported in the vertical position .
ticki2 04/24/15 10:09am Truck Campers
RE: 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 9. Electrical (AC/DC)

You stated that you have done an energy audit , that is always a great first step . My experience has been that needs and wants tend to change over time . Going with the minimum 15a is very limiting . For instance , if you use a small electric heater at a friends or a campground you will have used up almost all of your electrical supply . What about the converter/charger ? Could a microwave or AC be in the future ? Then there's the hair drier for the DW OR to thaw out the waste valve . Most RV's that use a removable chord have a twistlock connector , the one pictured doesn't appear to have that feature . The chord pulling out is not a big problem , the lights just go out . Pulling part way out could cause to much resistance and heat . What you propose will work , these are just one mans thoughts . I have no idea how you intend to use your TC when completed .
ticki2 04/16/15 11:54am Truck Campers
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