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 > Your search for posts made by 'tropical36' found 182 matches.

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RE: Wanna bring a golf cart and a Jeep towed

We're selling our vacation home in SW Fla and plan on using our Challenger for future vacations of a month to 6 weeks. I'm thinking I might want to buy a golf cart to bring along with my Jeep towed. Is there a way to do this? Maybe something to put the golf cart on and then hook up the Jeep. Best way is to buy a new Jeep Gladiator PU and for putting the GC in the bed of the truck and it should fit with the tailgate down. I'd like getting one eventually myself, but won't be buying new. Big bucks, even used, for my auto budget. Another way is for pulling a flat bed trailer and for loading them both on it. My SIL has a tent camper on one, as well as his Jeep CJ5. Once they get where they're going, they off load the Jeep and use the space for lawn chairs and the like.
tropical36 11/13/19 03:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 97 Fleetwood Bounder, F53 chassis

My 97 Fleetwood Bounder with a Ford F53 chassis is having starting problems. Try starting, dead. Try starting with aux. start, dead. Start generator, boom! Gen starts. Then I can start it. I replaced the inverter about 3 years ago. Most likely, your genset starts with the house batteries. Your chassis battery is dead and your aux. start sw. isn't working, for whatever reason. Switch, solenoid....etc...etc... Starting the genset, charges the chassis batteries for it then being able to start. Only thing here, that's not adding up, is for why the thing even charges the chassis battery, if the crossover solenoid isn't working?
tropical36 10/17/19 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Agree that space is tight. I'm thinking about taking up the driver's seat just to ensure I can get my big butt in there. I'm hoping I won't have to pull the steering wheel to get to the key lock surround. I need to see the end of the ignition lock cylinder where the actuator attaches with the D ring. Most likely you just have a bad ignition switch, if I'm reading the symptoms correctly.
tropical36 10/03/19 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact. Earlier you said your old P30 chassis had a rod between the key lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Mine has a plastic rod called an ignition switch actuator. I was doing some on-line troubleshooting last night with my Nephew in MO. He runs a locksmith shop and does a lot of key lock cylinder replacements. He remembered a lot of Fords have that actuator, so we did an F53 ignition diagram check on PartsGeek, and there it was. I need to get over to the Bounder in storage and see if I can access the ignition switch and slide the tab forward/down all the way with the key on and see if it starts. Appreciate all your time and insight. I'll let you know if I am successful. Metal, plastic, makes not a diff., so here's my story when in a CG on a Sunday morning, some years agao... Found a switch in my on board collection, cut two lengths of wire for it, jammed the other ends into the ignition switch terminals and held it fast with some tape. Laying the sw. up on the dog house for easy access and presto, we have secondary ignition for getting underway to a funeral. Some days later, I got the switch in that town and changed it out, in another CG. Worked fine, until we sold the coach in 16. Even for a small guy, it was a bear getting under there to work on it. Turned the seat to the right 90 degrees and slide in against the wall sideways. Funny for when we got to our destination, as I never shut the engine off, once started. So, when we got setup there and went to turn off the ignition, the engine kept on running and until I turned off the additional switch, that I installed.
tropical36 10/02/19 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where is everyone getting their wiper blades?

My blades are 32 1/2". I googled and Amazon offers 32" for 55 bucks. Is that a good price? Do I need 32" or 33"? Does it matter? Any additional recommendations? Thank you Bob I've been getting them at AutoZone or AdvancedAuto and usually the cheapest, as they don't get used a lot and only last for awhile, before becoming hard and brittle anyway. We've never had a problem finding replacements for the three coaches, that we've owned.
tropical36 10/01/19 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: To Buy or build

Many years ago, I bought a street rod once for $8K. Took it to a show that night and won a trophy. An acquaintance began building one of the same around the same time. Over a 3 yr period, I tinkered and improved on it, without much investment. Finally sold it at a nice profit. My acquaintance on the other hand, had $35K in his and it still needed an interior.
tropical36 10/01/19 10:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something.... Yes, my aux starter solenoid is right there on the pass side frame. Easier to reach from underneath than from above thru the doghouse hatch. Have checked the voltage there and it appears I don't have the 12v on the signal wire to close that solenoid at ignition start. I'm going to look at the key switch on the steering column since have already replaced the ignition switch. thanks...Andy OK, try this and on the ignition Switch itself put 12vdc on the wire going to the aux. solenoid, to see if it's intact and will actually close the solenoid. Also verify if the sw. has 12v supply voltage to begin with, so if and when it does close with the key, you'll have it at the aux. If so, then that sw. is probably faulty and sometimes just rattling the control rod, from the key lock makes it contact.
tropical36 10/01/19 09:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have some voltmeter skills, but the son is a ninja (using that electronics/computer repair and programming education I paid for). He has checked the starter solenoid both at ignition on and at ignition start and I think he said the 12v on the primary wire (small lug) is not there at start to close the solenoid for the starter to get power. Some background...up until last Nov, the MH stayed plugged into 50amp at home, but I would occasionally have to "wiggle" the gear shift to get the MH to start. Last Nov, we moved and now the MH sits in a storage lot on the Navy base with no power and batteries on disconnect. Dec it wouldn't start, so I got a new AGM battery (has already been told before I moved that chassis battery was not well). Even with new battery I still had starting issues...having to wiggle the gear shift, and that is why I replaced the trans park/neutral switch. I usually could get the MH started after fiddling with it for a minute or two. Later, I could start the generator and get the (new) chassis battery up to 13.4v, and the MH would usually start. Trip to ARK in Jul, ended up replacing the ignition switch that is mounted to the steering column. My BIL is an after market installer, and he determined that ignition switch was bad. MH started for the trip home both times I needed it to. I parked the MH in storage on 8 Jul and disconnected the batteries. Went to go start it a couple weeks later and nothing. So I am still easter egging it, using my Son and a neighbor with auto repair skills to find the problem, replacing the starter and starter solenoid to no avail. I think it is probably a loose ground or wire. I have a set of jumper leads so next week-end when the Son is available, I'll work on running a direct wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. I can get the MH to run by crossing the starter post with the ignition to on, so I might just get it running and take it somewhere and have someone with experience look at it...cause I'm sure it won't start for them to get into a bay, and they'll have to figure it out in the parking lot. The aux. solenoid mounted under the dog house somewhere is what could be the culprit and what I'm talking about, so that's where to check for voltage, coming from the ignition. Don't think I'd go directly from the ignition sw. to the main starter solenoid, without knowing how much current the ignition sw. itself is good for. As for grounds, there could be one off or loose somewhere, including said aux., but any + pos. wire going to ground, is a direct short across the batteries and will blow a fuse, dc breaker, something....
tropical36 09/30/19 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

Gents...thanks for all the replys... I do have the electric jacks stowed, and slides and steps in. I have started the motorhome before with jacks down and slides out, so I don't believe there are ignition interlocks there. I have replaced that on frame starter solenoid between the steering column mounted ignition switch and the starter. It is located in the passenger side wheel well. The primary wire was loose on the small post, so I tightened it up, and also cleaned up the two large post wires. I have not replaced the key switch yet, but that might be my next item. Of course there is still high probability it is a ground somewhere in the ignition circuit. I'm still trying to find a usuable ignition wiring diagram without having to buy a $250 2004 F53 shop manual. So, with this, you're saying that there is no voltage on the aux. solenoid coil pos term and assume you're in command of a voltmeter? That being the case, is there voltage on the ignition sw. term.? If so, running a new wire from the sw. to the solenoid should do the trick. Try a temporary run for just touching it with 12v for beginners. If that doesn't get it, then possibly the sw. itself isn't making contact, when the key lock is turned. My old P30 chassis coach, had a steel rod down the side of the steering column, between the key lock and the ign. sw. that required some adjustment.
tropical36 09/29/19 08:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bounder Does Not Start

There is a starter relay between the key and starter solenoid, that is a known failure item. I believe it's close to the right fender well. It has probably failed. Richard My bet, as well and the DP's have an aux. solenoid that's prone to failure as well. Wherever the engine starter, this aux. or relay should be close by and jumping across it, should tell the story. Reading for voltage at the terminals with and without turning the ignition Sw., will tell you something as well.
tropical36 09/28/19 02:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hitch upgrade question.

I have a 2000 Dutch Star with a GCWR rating of 39,000 and GAWR of 29,000lbs. According to the manual, it supposedly has a 5000lb hitch, but I know it can have 10,000. Can one just have a higher rated hitch installed without having to beef up the frame? Check with Newmar, but just the fact that it has a 10K towing capacity rating suggests that it also have a 10K hitch receiver. This also applies to the tranny's capabilities, etc.... Our old coach had a very low tow rating and even though most everything was beefy enough for a 5K tow, the transmission wasn't up to it, being the weak link in the train. Still ran it all over the country, but had to be tricky and careful for climbing long 6% grades in hot weather. Are there different versions of Allison in these diesel pushers in that year? The option was for either a Freightliner or Spartan chassis (with Spartan having a 10klb buffer). That being the case, it's most likely the Spartan that has an Allison 3000, at least. This should be reflected in the manual for either chassis and doubtful that they would print two separate publications.
tropical36 09/26/19 08:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hitch upgrade question.

I have a 2000 Dutch Star with a GCWR rating of 39,000 and GAWR of 29,000lbs. According to the manual, it supposedly has a 5000lb hitch, but I know it can have 10,000. Can one just have a higher rated hitch installed without having to beef up the frame? Check with Newmar, but just the fact that it has a 10K towing capacity rating suggests that it also have a 10K hitch receiver. This also applies to the tranny's capabilities, etc.... Our old coach had a very low tow rating and even though most everything was beefy enough for a 5K tow, the transmission wasn't up to it, being the weak link in the train. Still ran it all over the country, but had to be tricky and careful for climbing long 6% grades in hot weather.
tropical36 09/25/19 10:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Seeking advice for full time rv living

Hello! I am posting here because I am interested in becoming a full-time rver. I myself do not have a lot of experience with rv's. My grandparents had a really nice Class A Motorhome (which is what I would be buying) that I camped in a couple of times, but I don't have the knowledge necessary at this point to make it a permanent lifestyle. I would be looking to live full time in a Class A, and it's just me and my dog. I do have a passenger vehicle I would be keeping also. I am really attracted to the idea of living full time in an rv. I love the travel possibilities, and I feel like the small space would be perfect for me. I'm looking for some advice from some seasoned rvers. What is your favorite part about the lifestyle? What are the ugly parts? What are some useful tips for being on the road? What is it actually like at those rv campgrounds? I have been reading (and will continue to read) some of the posts on here offering various bits of advice, but I'd like to get more in depth. Thank you all in advance for any advice you can offer!! Not a full timer, but with our extended summer trips, I can tell you that I would recommend buying your last one first and will be better served with getting the largest one possible. As time goes by, you'll be taking less and less to the road everyday and will be sitting for longer periods of time. Also as you get more and more used to driving the rig, you'll feel more and more comfortable with driving something larger. As for a gasser or DP, depends on how much you plan on actually traveling over the years and for how much you can comfortably pay for any major repairs, that will certainly be much higher for a DP. Lastly, buy the best quality possible that fits your budget, rather than tend towards newness. You haven't said what you budget is, so that makes it difficult to advise on any particular Brand, Model or year. As for the lifestyle, campgrounds, Walmart, rest areas and such for what works best for you, you'll learn that pretty quick like.
tropical36 09/23/19 09:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

It doaesn't take much heat to boil DOT 3 brake fluid when it becomes satureated with water. Dot# 3 is the original brake fluid installed on your 2001 chassis. The dry boiling point is 401*F or 205*C. When it becomes saturated (4% water) the boiling point is lowered to 284*F or 140*C. Remember when you step on the brakes you're changing the energy of inertia to heat. Most motorhomes today come with either DOT 4 or Dot 5.1 brake fluid. The DOT 4 has a dry boiling point of 230*C or 446*F and a wet boiling point of 155C or 311*F. In most cases vehicles that were originally equpiied with DOT 3 fluid can be changed to DOT 4. It's not advisable to mix them, but when the system is flushed DOT 4 can be used to replace the DOT 3. The most recent fluid used is DOT 5.1. This fluid has a dry boiling point of 270*C or 518*F, and a wet boiling point of 190*C or 374*F. Unfortunately in most cases it cannot be used to replace either DOT 3 or DOT4. It is not compatible with the rubber parts in the system. To further confuse things there is also DOT 5.0 fluid in the market. It is a silicone based fluid primarily used in racing and aircraft applications. It does not absorbe water like the other styles therefore has limited long term use. Since it does not absorb water any water in the system will gravitate to the lowest point. In cold weather it can freeze and block the flow to the calipers. If left too long in the system it can cause the lines to rust through. This fluid is also not compatible with the rubber parts in most production vehicles. In systems where it is used it needs to be changed on a regular basis to avoid the fore mentioned problems. Everything I've ever read, says that they are compatible, as in this statement.... "Yes, DOT 3 brake fluid is compatible with DOT 4 brake fluid. However, DOT 4 offers a higher boiling point. DOT 5.1 is used in high-performance and heavy-duty applications due to its high boiling point. It's compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid"" Not so for silicon based 5.0 however and that is a no no. Don't know why the numerical similarity, unless it was done to confuse the general public. Not too much confusion however, since most have never even heard of 5.1.
tropical36 09/20/19 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

OP never came back to the post. Curious what happened.The one thing that happened, was that he got very few answers to his question of.....My question is has anyone pulled a full size pickup with a 35 ft gas motor home I have a 1997 Fleetwood Bounder 34V with a Ford 460 engine and my tow limit is 3500 lbs my truck is 4900 lbs.?..... What he did get was a lot of everything else, including legal counsel and one even said that he had answered his own question.
tropical36 09/15/19 08:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless. civil suits can be filed by anyone for any reason anytime. but knowingly towing 1400-lbs overweight could be called an ambulance chaser's retirement plan. OP, you do what you want. the fact that you're even asking indicates you have doubts. good luck and be safe. Again, where's the weak link and if we would have had an Allison 3000 tranny in our old P30, there wouldn't have been an overweight problem and one that never created a safety problem in the first place. With checking out the specs on some of the newer Pace Arrow, 40ft DP's, the towing capacity is only 800lbs and all because of the Allison 2500 series tranny. Not that anyone, including the owners, pay it any mind and as long as it doesn't alarm and go into limp mode with overheating. I mean what kind of toad, weighs only 800lbs and assuming that one might be at max. GVWR, before hitching up?
tropical36 09/10/19 03:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless. civil suits can be filed by anyone for any reason anytime. but knowingly towing 1400-lbs overweight could be called an ambulance chaser's retirement plan. OP, you do what you want. the fact that you're even asking indicates you have doubts. good luck and be safe. Again, where's the weak link and if we would have had an Allison 3000 tranny in our old P30, there wouldn't have been an overweight problem. With checking out the specs on some of the newer Pace Arrow, 40ft DP's, the towing capacity is only 800lbs and all because of the Allison 2500 series tranny. Not that anyone, including the owners, pay it any mind and as long as it doesn't alarm and go into limp mode with overheating. I mean what kind of toad, weighs only 800lbs and assuming that one might be at max. GVWR, before hitching up?
tropical36 09/10/19 03:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing

If you get into an accident while towing that much over your weighted limit your insurance company will probably tell you to get lost !! Granted, they may tell you to get lost, if they even have a clue as to weight being a factor or for maybe not wanting to renew your policy next time, but they will have to pay, regardless.
tropical36 09/10/19 02:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions. Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion. Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again. For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain. Again, I once had it happen in downtown traffic, as well, prompting me to install a makeshift heat shield near the exhaust manifold.
tropical36 09/09/19 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

I have driven in mountains for years, I know not to ride the brakes and to shift down. I was not in heavy mountains for the last 50 miles at least and was on a slow road with a speed limit of from 35 to 55 mph. The brakes worked fine when I got to the campground. I left the engine running while I went and signed in, that took 5 or 10 minutes and then I slowly drove to my camp site, that is when I noticed the pedal sinking to the floor. I think I will go to the Chevy garage in the morning and make an appointment to have the fluid changed and if they think the master cylinder is bad, I will have them change it. Although I agree the fluid should be changed I really don't think the brakes were that hot. I just had the MH in to the Chevy garage back home before the trip and had them pack the wheel bearings and check it over including the brake pads and all fluid levels to the tune of $830 so it is rather disappointing that we are having this problem. Oh well such is life, I am just happy it happened at 5 mph and not 60 mph. Thanks again for your ideas and opinions. Typical scenario for boiling fluid and they usually don't go to the floor like that, until you've stopped and sat for a spell. Probably cuz they get even hotter then and without the amount of air flowing, while in motion. Some years ago an an elderly man was killed, when he and his wife went through a building in downtown Buffalo, WY after not being able to stop their descent, coming down from near 10K ft., Powder River pass. It was thought that he had pulled over at a turn about, somewhere on the way down and that his brakes failed soon after starting down again. For proving a point, we came down that same mountain into Buffalo, 7 days prior in our old gasser and only noticed my pedal being hard. Didn't have a problem until we pulled over in town for about 20 mins. Decided on heading on to Indian campground and that's when I realized that I had no brakes to speak of. Inched our way there in low gear and got setup. The next morning I had brakes, but back tracked to a brake shop at the foot of the mountain for having the fluid changed, anyway. They do one hell of a business there and can tell you many stories about people coming down that mountain.
tropical36 09/09/19 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
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