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 > Your search for posts made by 'tropical36' found 385 matches.

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RE: 22.5 tires $$$$ ?

Ok. So I’m looking at class A’s. Between 2013 and 2015, maybe a bit older if it’s immacualte. I’ve been pricing tires and found that the 22.5’s are pricey, around $500 ea on average. 19.5’s are about half that price. So if I find one that I like it’s probably going to need tires, at least the 2 steer tires! Anyone found a place that offered good prices for a quality tire! And do these tires fall under the same category for replacement! Every 5 or so years? I’m sure I’ll have a lot more questions! I've been running Hercules H601 with good results in performance and price.
tropical36 03/20/19 12:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Starting Issue

OK, perhaps time to take a "chill pill". Good information posts have degraded into personal attacks. That is NOT what the Forum is about. Thanks. While those affected are taking their chill pill....lol, just let me say, that ....Energy cannot be created or destroyed... It can only be transferred or changed from one form to another. This is the first law of Thermodynamics or the law for conservation of energy, if you will! Story short, we'll all have to be content with the energy that's already on the planet.
tropical36 03/15/19 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mileage on used class A

Thanks fire up. Very good info and exactly what I am looking for. I’m not against any other engine, I juts know the Cummins well because I’m a tech at a Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram dealer. And it sounds like the air suspension operated the same as the cars just a bigger system. And I know the principle of air brakes just never had to work on or deal with them. So all Your info is good. Same goes for the “Jake brake”. Our Cummins use an exhaust brake, and then they switched over to the variable vane turbos (which I know can have their own issue) but that’s usually on trucks that aren’t driven hard! I have read about the radiator location. I know it can make a difference but I’m not going to let it affect a purchase decision, same goes for the engine manuf. I appreciate all the input, I think we are going to go out and look at some this weekend. If I might add a bit, keep in mind that both Jacobs and Pac make both types of aux. brakes, so saying that Jake is a compression brake only, and that Pac is an exhaust brake only, is false and like saying that Channel Lock are the only people, that make right angle pliers. Then there's the never ending saga of the side radiator and again with repeating myself, left me say that this isn't just about where the radiator is located. Otherwise, they wouldn't cost a $100k more and up. It's the very last thing a coach manufacture spends their dollars on, so it makes for better quality throughout and from top to bottom. This includes the whole interior from the cabinetry, the leather.....etc...etc.... and of course the upgraded chassis and most likely a more powerful engine. So, in a nutshell, if quality is first and foremost on your list, then look in the rear firstly and if you can't see the engine, move on, without going inside. They all cost the same per a particular budget anyway, just the year model get's changed. Example...and when we last purchased, a 13 Newmar Canyon Star, was going to cost us more, than we paid for our 07 Revolution. Are you kidding me and talk about a no brainer. The comparison between the two, could very well be, the reason for coining these words.
tropical36 03/15/19 05:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Ford F53 Chassis

Heaven forbid for designing anything new, for replacing the tried and proven. I mean, what was wrong with the Model T and didn't it get one from point A to point B?
tropical36 03/14/19 03:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mileage on used class A

Hi all, We are currently in the market and just starting looking at class A's. We have had multiple trailers though out the years, and I am ready to get rid of my F350 daily driver and gain some more comfort for the family while driving longer distances. Anyway, I have been looking at 2-3 year old gas models with only 10k miles on them. Now, when all my cars have over 150k on them with no issues, this seems extremely low. Is there something I am missing? Is this just a case of moderate use, recreational.. Is there something more I need to look into or worry about? I am comfortable with something about 5 years old, any older seem to be "lived in" too much for me. I would think that 10k is 10k no matter what the engine is doing. Same is true for all the components, compressors, hoses, belts, etc. Thanks About 4500 miles a year is the average on these. As for wear and tear, it depends on what it was in the first place. High end models are for much longer lasting of materials in the house as well as other components and especially with a DP. We bought ours at 9yrs old, with 33K miles and for looking brand new, in and out. Except for the quirks of getting it right, it's been good for 2.5yrs now and expect to have it for life, considering our age.
tropical36 03/14/19 02:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ? Heat & Air on Ford Chassis?

Does Ford motor provide enough heat/air for comfort or do you have to run the RV heat/air for comfort? It might keep you alive, but that's about it and all that one can expect from a unit that's actually no bigger than a car's system. Hanging a curtain behind the cockpit will help, if you're not willing to use the genset or the forced air furnace.
tropical36 03/13/19 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Starting Issue

Had an interesting issue yesterday. Had just finished fueling up, heading to Perry when the MH would not start. 2006 National Seabreeze LX. Pressed the boost button and still no go. ???. So I had my 600A booster, connected to the engine battery and STILL nothing. Dang, this is not good. First trip to Perry and we're dead before we get on the road. Wife says what if you start the genny? OK, I didn't think the genny charged the engine battery but we'll give it a try. BOOM, started right up. So, without having time yet to look at the schematic, does the genny charge the engine (chassis) battery? What is the standard for a Class A. I'm going to also post this on the National forum on iRV2. Thanks!! Al First question is.....was the chassis battery actually dead or was there some other intermittent problem, that wasn't allowing the engine to turn over? Unless there's also a problem with the aux. boost, then it should have started, when coupling all the batteries together. The genset does charge your chassis battery through the converter, but only after the coach batteries are up. I'm doubting that your batteries were the problem, but time will tell with that one, so if and when there's a next time, you need to check the voltages on the batteries, before proceeding any further. We had a 98 National with a GM engine and I replaced the starter twice over a period of 9yrs. with the rig being 9yrs old, when we got it.
tropical36 03/13/19 09:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Small Class A with Twin beds no slides

The no slide is kind of a deal breaker with a 25 foot Class "A". There are two we are looking at, the Vegas/Axis and the Via. We both prefer the Via but it is a bit more. Take a look at the Vegas/Axis, with just one small slide. The Vista 26he is another choice. Why not just drop back a year for getting what you really want and for fitting your budget. Not only will you save money on depreciation, but maybe with a lot of bugs already out of it, with a previous owner making all the trips to the Dealer. I'm not the OP and I don't have a problem, we're just looking. OP or not, it's still worth some consideration.
tropical36 03/12/19 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing four CG 6 volts with two Group 27?

My four six volt batteries need replacing Again. Five years again and shot. I have a watering system but I leave the rv plugged in all the time and I forget to water them and they dry out. Im pretty sure Im going to replace them with two Group 27 12vdc dual purpose maintenance free batteries. I chose those as the have the same footprint as the CGs and fit the rack. I just replaced my 8 year old Group 31 starting batteries. They were starting her just fine but I felt they were too old We never boondock, we dry camp maybe once a year. I have replaced all the light bulbs with LEDs and the tv is LED too. It has a 2000 watt inverter which might get used with tv. The microwave would get unplugged if boondocking. Crazy? Stupid? Saves about $300 and some maintenance. Easier to change out, too Whatever you decide, I'd go with AGM's. Our coach came with four 12 AGM's that someone changed to 6v wet cells. I changed it back again, like the OEM. Hate fooling around with watering and checking and especially when there's not a lot of room for doing so. Not only that, our rig has the inverter/charger in the same compartment, with a rubber seal and some vents behind the batteries. Don't like that either and even if fumes, might not be a problem. Already had a chassis battery go bad and overheating enough for producing fumes and for setting off the propane detector inside the coach. Had two boiling house batteries in a previous coach, so again, not very fond of wet cells of any kind and should have probably not replaced my chassis batteries with the standards and even though, they're maintenance free. If for no other reason, I'm beginning to wonder how the charger likes charging unlike cells in parallel, when the big boy relay is closed.
tropical36 03/10/19 12:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Small Class A with Twin beds no slides

The no slide is kind of a deal breaker with a 25 foot Class "A". There are two we are looking at, the Vegas/Axis and the Via. We both prefer the Via but it is a bit more. Take a look at the Vegas/Axis, with just one small slide. The Vista 26he is another choice. Why not just drop back a year for getting what you really want and for fitting your budget. Not only will you save money on depreciation, but maybe with a lot of bugs already out of it, with a previous owner making all the trips to the Dealer.
tropical36 03/09/19 02:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Small Class A's

Tropical, the time frame was from 2002 to present! Road Dog Well, not like you can't make up your mind for one or the other and you have made use of each decision over a period of 17yrs. Again go with the A and be done with it, the larger the better and not many downsize with happiness.
tropical36 03/06/19 11:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: PD 52 transfer switch hum normal?

Check for loose connections. Think about replacement as it will fail when you need it the most. I tightened connections. No change Is there a better model available? Tightening wire connections, only insures a good connection that won't get hot and cause crystallization of the wires and other current delivery problems. Pull the relay contactors themselves and use emery cloth and a small file for cleaning the contacts and where the coils make contact, as well. Had to believe they're all making noise or that they all are bad. Check the little springs on the arms, while you're at it. You can always replace one with a like model, if really faulty. With re-reading the thread, it seems that the deed has been done, so you might as well ask for the old one back for having a looksee and for having a spare, if needed.
tropical36 03/06/19 09:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Class A Buyer with Questions

Looking to buy our first Class A coming over from the 5ver camping scene. In the market for a diesel pusher under the $70K range. Question is where do I start with offers? Is NADA realistic? Found a Fleetwood Providence and a Discovery today online. Providence was real close to NADA values but the Discovery was 30K over NADA. What gives? I've used NADA a lot and would expect to pay around 10 - 15% below low retail for a really nice one. This is usually all a private seller can expect to get and do like consignment dealers for negotiating without the emotion. Along with your questions, you might ask yourself about how much quality vs the age, that you demand in your search for meeting your budget. My recommendation, would be to move up a bit and only consider models with a side radiator. This will insure quality throughout and you should be able to find a 40fteer in the 05 - 06 model range that meets your budget. Did I mention standing in the doorway, with checkbook and pen in hand, when making a would be final offer?
tropical36 03/06/19 09:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Small Class A's

Wife and I are looking at small class A's. Class B and B Plus are to small for us. Plus wife is claustrophobic. Any suggestions? We owned 5 motorhomes,so we are not new to this. Had 1 class A, 4 class C's and now own a 35ft fifth wheel. Time to go back to motorized. Would appreciate any input you would have. Don't want another class C. What say you! Road Dog Might I ask, what the time frame was for all these RV's? A class A is the only way to go IMO and the bigger the better if you have a place to park it.
tropical36 03/06/19 08:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pulling A trailer

What is the weight of the trailer? Take that amount away from your GCVW May not be able to support the hitch weight properly either. Some rigs are already at max on the rear axle, when loaded for travel. Ours is. There's ways around this however, but that's for another thread. Four down is the way to go, for all practical purposes.
tropical36 03/05/19 05:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 13 F150 as a toad with a 99 newmar 8.3 Cummins

I have been thinking I already have a perfectly good truck I could put my scooters in it and go. Has anyone had problems with a setup like this? Speed is no problem I drive slow anyway? If your tranny is at least a series 3000, then your GCWR is probably sufficient and just as long as your hitch is rated accordingly and 5K lbs would be pushing it, without reinforcing, so a 10K would be much better.
tropical36 03/03/19 12:39pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Tire Load Range

I don't need to know the plys at all, I just have to look on the max load on the side of the tire and it says 6,175 lbs and the correct tires on the back of the same brand and model in H say 7,160 lbs. It's really pretty simple. That means nothing. What carry capacity does your motorhome specify? If the specifications calls for a specific carry capacity, so long as the tire meets that carry capacity, the correct tire was installed. now if you want excess capacity above what the manufacture calls for, that is a whole different thing. My small RV calls for a load "index" of 115 but my personal preference is to go 121. If I don't tell the tire dealer I want the excess capacity, they most likely will specify tires with the 115. What is on the tire itself has nothing to do with what your motorhome requires. Now if you asked specifically to use a certain carry capacity or the motorhome specifications called for a certain carry capacity, they should have followed your instructions or the manufacturer specifications. But max carry capacity written on a tire in no way indicates what is required. By translating some of this and with the only real reason some will go with a higher tire rating, is because they wish to run them at a lower tire pressure, which again, is spelled out on the tire inflation charts.
tropical36 02/16/19 02:54pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tire Load Range

G and H share similar loads depending on ply. You need to know how many ply in the H and the G to determine if the rating is appropriate. There are a few other Load Ranges that share similar crossovers due to construction. I don't know why tires in that group carry different load ranges when their actual carry capacity is the same; but they do. I guess it's similar to the load "index" issue with LT tires that are both 120 and 115 depending on mounting characteristics.I don't need to know the plys at all, I just have to look on the max load on the side of the tire and it says 6,175 lbs and the correct tires on the back of the same brand and model in H say 7,160 lbs. It's really pretty simple. Not sure I understand... and are you saying that you just always inflate to max, without any regard to what the rig actually weighs? I always look up my particular tire on the inflation chart and then add 10 - 15psi for all the variances, before leaving on any trip.
tropical36 02/16/19 02:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Entegra class A

It's really a Thor Challenger with the Entegra name on it. Save some money and buy the Thor unit. Thor bought Entegra a few years ago and this is part of their business plan to capitalize on the Entegra name. Nope. It’s a Jayco. Thor bought Jayco and Jayco owned Entegra. The new gas Entegra’s are remodeled and rebadged Jaycos. This is correct and Jayco does sound better than a Thor, by reputation. Whatever the branding, it's not gonna be anything like a CORNERSTONE dp, that's for sure.
tropical36 02/16/19 02:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: ? Class-A Gas Climbing MPH

What's the real gas class-A hill climbing MPH? Talking to couple old timers while wandering around RV show, one commented and other agreed that a gas Class-A slows down to about 5mph climbing our Western Mountains. I've had occasion to follow some on prior trips and can't recall ever being slowed down anywhere near single digit MPH. They should probably see about getting the other 4 cylinders to fire.
tropical36 02/16/19 01:52pm Class A Motorhomes
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